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The Guide To An Energy Efficient
Home
Jane Doe
ABC Company
2
The Guide to an
Energy Efficient
Home
By {your name here}
http://www.yoursitenamehere.com
Customer Support: {Help Desk URL or email for support}
Legal Notice: This digital eBook is for informational purposes only. While every attempt has been made
to verify the information provided in this report, neither the author, publisher nor the marketer assume any
responsibility for errors or omissions. Any slights of people or organizations are completely unintentional
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and the development of this ebook is a bona fide venture. The producer and marketer have no intention
whatsoever to adversely impact the reputations of any persons or business enterprises. The trademarks,
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respective owners. This eBook has been distributed with the understanding that we are not engaged in
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guarantee about the accuracy of information provided. In no event will the author and/or marketer be
liable for any direct, indirect, incidental, consequential or other loss or damage resulting from the use of
the information in this document by any person, regardless of whether or not said individual has been
informed of the possibility of damages in advance. Thank you for your attention to this message.
Table of Contents
Introduction ......................................................................................................................................4
Chapter 1
The Kitchen ............................................................................................................………………..8
Chapter 2
The Bathroom…………….…………….………………………………………………………..15
Chapter 3
Windows, Doors and Skylights…………………………………………………………………..19
Chapter 4
Attics, Roofs and Energy
Loans………...….……………………………………………………………………………......54
Chapter 5
Hot Water Heater, Furnace, Air Conditioner,
Thermostat……..…………………………………………………………………………….......62
Chapter 9
LED Flood Lights……………..…………………………………………………………………84
Chapter 6
Laptops..…………………………………………………………………………………………92
Chapter 7
Energy Efficient
HDTV…....……………………………………………………………………………………..108
Chapter 8
The Best Rechargeable AA and AAA Batteries and Chargers,
Powerstrips…………………………………………………..…...……………………………..138
Chapter 10
Toilets and Showerheads for Saving
Water………………………………………………………………………..……………..……151
Introduction
Energy prices are going through the roof and these days it pays to
make your home more energy efficient. The latest report by the U.S.
Department of Energy states that the average American family spends
about $1,900 a year on home utility bills. This comes as no surprise,
considering we spend about 90% of our time in our homes, where energy is
in great demand. A large portion of that energy is wasted and utilized
inefficiently. Not to mention, the fossil fuels used to generate the electricity
for a single home ever year, put more carbon dioxide into the air than two
mid-sized cars.
It's time we do our part to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by
reducing our demand for energy. Yes, YOU have the power to cut the
consumption of energy resources like coal and gas in your very own home.
By reducing energy consumption, you are helping to keep the air cleaner
for everyone and reducing your environmental footprint while saving money
on your utility bills.
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"Other" includes small electric devices, heating elements, motors, swimming pool heaters, hot tub
heaters, outdoor grills, and natural gas outdoor lighting
Sources: U.S. Department of Energy; 2009 Buildings Energy Data Book
Now you might be wondering: "how do I start saving money on my utilities
while doing my part to protect the environment?"
I have good news for you: making your home more energy efficient is a lot
easier than you might expect!
In this book, we reveal dozens of easy tips on upgrading your home into
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the efficient, environmentally friendly model of green living that you've
always wanted!
A lot of the money you currently spend on utilities is going right out the
window! Instead, let's use that money to make your home more energy
efficient! Feel free to buy me a cup of coffee while you’re at it.
The tips in this guide are so simple anybody can use them! We'll go over
both smaller and larger repairs and replacements you can make room by
room. We'll also cover simple things you can do yourself at little or no cost
to bring your home up to snuff on the latest in green energy.
Once you've made your home energy efficient, you'll wonder how you ever
lived any other way!
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Chapter 1 – The Kitchen
Take a look at your kitchen.
How old are your appliances? Do you have a ceiling fan installed? What
types of light bulbs are you using? Why is this book giving me the third
degree?!
OK, let's face it. Older "stuff" drains tons of energy. Even if you're a
millionaire (doubt it), we'll show you how to reinvest money you currently
spend on sky-high utilities into newer, more efficient appliances and habits.
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[Refrigerator]
How old is your refrigerator? It's O.K., Be honest . . . If you have an
older refrigerator, you might be paying extra on your electric bill. Older
fridges tend to really drain electricity. By replacing your old fridge with a
spiffier, more energy-conscious model, you can save serious cash on your
bill.
According to General Electric, someone with a 20 year old fridge
pays roughly double the amount that the owner of an energy efficient unit
pays(!) That means if you pay $30 a month with your 20 year old antique
icebox, you can get away with paying just $15 if you upgrade. Not only
would you be getting a new refrigerator but eventually, it would pay for
itself! $15 a month may sound like chump change to you, but add that up
over the course of ten months and you've saved $150!
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[Dishwasher]
For the dishwasher - the same rules apply. Yes, that beloved relic
you inherited from your grandma, who bought it during the great
depression, is probably sapping major electricity and water. Older
dishwashers use way more water than newer models, thus sky-rocketing
your water bill. Switch to an energy efficient model already and start saving
dinero on your bills! (Because I’d still like that cup of coffee)
[Oven]
While using an oven in the winter can make the kitchen nice and
toasty and doubles as a great makeshift fireplace for the kids to roast
marshmallows, using it in the summer can make the kitchen HOT, which
can cause your air conditioner to kick on. You're better off using the oven
only occasionally in the summer. Instead, how about using the microwave?
This won't turn the whole kitchen into a sauna or singe off little Jimmy's
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eyebrows and is generally just as effective at cooking the majority of foods
as an oven more quickly!
[Crock Pot]
Another great way to save energy in the kitchen during the summer
months is to use a crock pot. You don't have to use the oven and it won't
flip the A.C. on.
Making your kitchen more energy efficient is more of a state of mind
than a series of home repairs. By staying conscious of how much energy
you use in the kitchen, particularly when it comes to the different
appliances, you can reach energy Zen (zenergy) and have fewer bills than
Buddha had possessions.
[Ceiling Fan]
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If you don’t have a ceiling fan in your kitchen . . . install one! A ceiling
fan circulates both cool and warm air throughout the year. Since most
kitchens have a light fixture on the ceiling, it's usually pretty easy to install a
ceiling fan with a built-in light kit. This creates air circulation in the kitchen.
[Floor]
Now take a look at your kitchen floor. Do you have ceramic tiles,
wood or linoleum? Although linoleum is the cheapest among these types
of flooring, it's also the warmest. If you're looking to save money and
energy, switching to linoleum flooring can save you money on both heating
and air conditioning. Your tiles may look much sexier but they downright
suck at conducting heat.
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[Lighting]
Take a look at the type of light bulbs you're using in the light fixtures
in your kitchen. Not too close or you’ll go blind!
You've heard about those new, energy
efficient lightbulbs, right? These little guys
are more earth friendly than traditional bulbs
as they emit fewer toxins, last about 10
times longer than traditional light bulbs and
use about one-third of the electricity. Plus,
let’s be real - the way they spiral looks awesome. It's estimated that you
can save about $30 during the lifetime of the lightbulb. By replacing the
light bulbs in the kitchen, alone, you're making great strides in creating a
more energy efficient home.
These Compact Fluorescent Light bulbs or CFL bulbs use only 23 watts of
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energy and emit less carbon dioxide, mercury and other environmentally
harmful substances than traditional bulbs. Millions of modern homes use
CFL's in their kitchens, dining rooms, family rooms and bathrooms - and
understandably so. A 23 Watt CFL is brighter than a 100 watt conventional
lightbulb and uses only a third of the electricity! Even though CFL's are
pricier, their long life saves you money in the long run.
[Faucet]
So, how's your kitchen faucet holding up? Does it drip or leak? If you
answered yes, it's time to replace the faucet. Leaking faucets end up
wasting a substantial amount of water during their lifetime and can total up
to $100 a year in water costs! You're better off spending half that for a
decent faucet that'll pay for itself in 6 months, anyway! Yea . . . we’re lazy,
too. But do it anyway. You work hard for the money!
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Just by making some simple adjustments in your kitchen, you can
make the room more energy efficient (and get cool points from friends and
neighbors). While a new refrigerator and dishwasher can be steep, getting
energy efficient appliances is something you should seriously consider
when the time comes. You probably wouldn't rip up your floor to save a
few bucks, but when the inevitable hour of replacements and renovations
arrives, think relentlessly long-term and go energy efficient all the way!
Chapter 2 – The Bathroom
This is another part of the home where we spend a considerable
amount of time - taking care of our basic needs and just unwinding. Let's
see how we can upgrade it!
Short of ripping out the entire bathroom, there are several little things
you can do to improve efficiency in your . . . ahem, "sanctuary." For
example, throw done some bathroom rugs to prevent the temptation of
turning the heat on in the winter because of the icy floor.
Consider: Just as in the rest of the house, using the right bulbs is the first
step in creating a truly energy efficient bathroom.
[Fixtures]
Take a peek at your faucets and showerheads. Are they old and
leaking? If so, then - you guessed it! - have them replaced! This is super
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important because your shower is the biggest water hog in the house. You
can pick one up at most any bathroom supply, hardware or general store.
Look for a "AAA" labeled shower head (which flows at a rate close to 7
liters per minute). Don't worry, installing a new shower fixture or hand held
shower massage doesn’t require an engineering degree - anyone can do it!
Plus: you'll get better water pressure!
These improvements aren't expensive but they can save you hundreds of
dollars a year in utility costs. That's some serious moolah!
Now, if you’re ready to indulge your hidden desire to smash a little
piece of your house to smithereens AND have some money to burn, let's
see what else we can do with your bathroom to improve efficiency.
One of your first priorities should be switching to a more efficient
toilet. These save water and energy big time.
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Next, select an energy efficient hot water system and place it as close
to the bathroom and laundry as possible to reduce pipe length and heat
loss. Also make sure to insulate your new water pipes to prevent heat loss.
(Note: This does not work on one’s head if it’s full of hot air)
Install an energy efficient exhaust fan in the bathroom. These control
moisture while you bathe or shower. If you're fond of singing in the shower
but cause your cat to hide in terror for several days at a time, ask for the
noisiest model available.
Your lungs and sinuses will thank you as well because by removing moist
air in your bathroom and bringing drier air in, you help prevent the build-up
of harmful (and house-damaging) molds and mildews. Install self-closing
exhaust fans to avoid heat loss/gain when not in use.
If you do decided to go demolition man and rip the bathroom up, make sure
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you insulate walls, doors, windows and ceilings. Walls around tubs and
shower enclosures have notoriously poor insulation. Caulking walls and
the ceiling prevents air leaks and makes for a more comfortable bathroom.
And let's face it, caulking is the most exciting thing this side of skydiving.
Installing energy efficient doors, windows and skylights helps make
your home more comfortable and can lower heating and cooling costs.
Developments in glass and frame technologies have proven amazing in
controlling airflow to and from your home and a tight seal always ensures
comfort.
Be sure to use Energy Star rated appliances and lighting in your
remodel.
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Chapter 3 – Windows, Doors and
Skylights
Windows
How old is your home? If
you live in an older house
chances are you still have the
original windows that came with
the place. Most of your windows,
though intact and solid, have
probably developed some cracks
and gaps in the frames and
housings. By now you've
probably noticed the cold draft
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coming through the windows in the wintertime and when it's windy out.
These cracks let out more hot air than a used car salesman, causing
you to turn your heat up and costing you money. But lucky for you, today's
windows are quite fancy.
They're:
- Double-Glazed
- Extra Thick (Eliminating the need for storm windows)
- Energy Efficient (Keeping out both cold and hot air)
- Stylish
Also bear in mind that windows are one of the few things (along with being
a celebrity) that ADD value to your home. In several states, new windows
will even qualify you for a rebate on your heating bill!
You can find these windows in hardware stores, building supply stores,
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home remodeling stores and, of course, online.
If you know how to measure, you can install a window! Oh, and save a
couple of grand while you're at it. If you just don't have the time or energy
to do it yourself, hire a carpenter. But expect to pay handsomely for it.
If you do decide to go the DIY route, here's a full-proof, fool-proof way to
put in your own windows.
[Installing Replacement Windows Yourself]
First you'll have to order the replacement windows. You may be better off
ordering just one window to begin with if you're not exactly sure how to do
it. Most windows are measured from the inside of the frame. When you
order your window, don't be afraid to ask the person on the other end how
to take the measurements. If they sound cute, ask them what they're doing
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Friday night.
If you order your replacement windows online, you can typically find a
measurement guide on the website. Keep in mind that most older windows
are standard-sized windows.
Once you receive the replacement window, you need to remove the
existing window. In order to do this, you need to remove the wood trim
surrounding the window. Keep this in one piece as you will most likely put
this back on the wall after you install the new window.
After removing the wood trim, you'll be able to see where the window is
fixed to the wall. Remove any nails and push the window out. Chances
are that it's been in the wall for a while and may be difficult to budge. But
be careful, you want to get the window out without breaking the glass,
causing a mess, getting laughed at, or dying. So push gently until the
window starts coming out.
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If the windows are double hung windows, you may be able to remove one
of them from the track, which will make it easier to remove the other
window. You have to make sure the entire thing is removed and that the
space is free of any debris.
After removing the old window, put the new one in its place. Use a level to
make sure the window is hanging evenly in the opening. If the window is a
little off or uneven, you'll need to put a wood shunt into the opening.
Double check that it's hanging evenly or you'll have trouble shutting it!
Once the window is in the opening and leveled, you need to affix it to the
wall. Make sure that it opens and shuts properly and is secure before
replacing the wooden trim around the window. The entire process can take
about an hour and a half - that's only 3 Seinfeld episodes' worth and you've
seen them each twice already anyway!
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After you've replaced the window, caulk around both the inside and outside
to eliminate drafts or you'll have defeated one of your original goals in
getting new windows!
When you've replaced one window on your own, you may just decide to do
the rest of them yourself, too. If the job wasn't too difficult for you and you
didn’t wind up having to get nails removed from your hand, order the rest of
the replacement windows and simply repeat the process!
You can generally save quite a bit of money if you order your replacement
windows online. This way, you order straight from the manufacturer,
cutting out the middleman completely. It's not uncommon to save over
$2,000! Options for spending it include donating to a worthy cause and
sending me a nice bottle of wine.
Particularly for those of you on a budget, doing this work yourself is well
worth it and just plain satisfying. With only basic carpentry skills and a set
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of tools you should be able to accomplish this feat without hiring help.
If you do hire a pro, go with a well-reputed carpenter over a window
installation company; it's cheaper.
Whichever route you choose, you can sleep easily (and draft-free) knowing
that you've made an investment in your property and raised its value while
taking a giant leap forward in creating an energy efficient home.
[Patio Door]
In addition to replacement windows, you may also want to consider
getting a replacement patio door. Your old patio door may be letting a
draft in through the glass. Replacing a patio door is much trickier than a
window job and you'll probably either need the help of a friend who
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knows what they're doing (and owes you one) or the service of a
professional.
2 Simple Air-Sealing Methods
[Weatherstripping]
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Weatherstripping does not involve a hot meteorologist dancing at the
club off the highway. Weatherstripping is used around movable joints such
as windows and doors. For air-sealing windows, apply weatherstripping
between the sash and the frame. Weatherstripping comes in a variety of
materials: Felt, Vinyl, Open-cell foam and even various metals (aluminum,
stainless steel, copper and bronze). When choosing which type to use,
consider these factors: weather, temperature fluctuations, friction it may
endure, and wear and tear associated with its location. The
weatherstripping you choose should seal well when the door or window is
closed while allowing it to open freely. Also take durability into account
when comparing costs.
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Weatherstripping Comparisons
Type Cost Comments
Felt and Foam-cell Inexpensive Susceptible to weather, visible, and
inefficient at blocking airflow. However, the
ease of applying these materials may make
them valuable in low-traffic areas
Vinyl Slightly higher Holds up well and resists moisture
Metal Higher but Lasts for years, provides a nice touch to
affordable older homes where vinyl might seem out of
place.
To determine how much weatherstripping you’ll need, add the
perimeters of all windows and doors to be weatherstripped, then add 5%–
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10% to allow for any waste. Also consider that weatherstripping comes in
various depths and widths.
[Caulk]
Caulk forms a flexible seal around cracks, gaps and joints smaller than 1-
quarter-inch wide. In addition to sealing air leaks, caulking can also prevent
water damage inside and outside of the home when applied around
faucets, ceiling fixtures, water pipes, drains, bathtubs and other plumbing
fixtures.
Caulk compounds come in disposable cartridges that fit into half-barrel
caulking guns (sorry, these don’t actually shoot). It’s best to choose one
with an automatic release. These compounds can also be found in
squeeze tubes and ropes for smaller jobs and those tightly-cramped
spaces. To determine the amount of caulk you need, expect to use a half-
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cartridge per window or door and 4 cartridges for the foundation sill. Get an
extra one to seal in vents, pipes, faucets and electrical outlets.
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Type Cost Comments
Oil or resin-based Inexpensive, but also the Available everywhere and will
least effective bond to most surfaces. It tends
to harden and crack after 2 to 4
years.
Latex and butyl-based caulk A little more expensive, but It lasts from 6 to 20 years and
much more durable than holds up well to building
oil-based. expansion and contraction
caused by changes in
temperature. Latex is paintable
and it comes in white or colored
finishes.
Elastometric Sealants Most expensive Allows for the most building
expansion and is readily
paintable. Good to use on taller
multi-family buildings that
experience more movement
and wind pressure. These
sealants typically have a life of
20 years or more.
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Directions on usage can be found on the cartridge.
Important: Follow instructions to the letter!
Typically, you start by cutting off about half an inch from the nozzle at a 45
degree angle. Don't forget to puncture it. Now it's ready to be used.
Caulk is best applied in these places:
All joints in a window frame
The joint between the frame and the wall
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Between window sills and siding
Between frame wall plates and the foundation
Around all holes for pipes, ducts, or electric conduits through outside
walls
Around all holes through walls separating heated and unheated
spaces such as attached garages, storerooms, or attics
Between unheated porches and the main body of the house
Where the chimney or masonry meets the siding
Things to remember when applying caulk:
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Clean the area you’re going to apply it to by removing old caulk or
paint residue using a putty knife, stiff brush or a solvent.
The best time to apply caulk is during dry weather when the outdoor
temperature is above 45°F (7.2°C). Low humidity is important during
application to prevent cracks from swelling with moisture. Warm
temperatures are also necessary so the caulk will set properly and
adhere to the surface.
[Storm Windows]
Another remedy for older houses is storm windows. If you do live in
an older house you probably have them. They're often heavy, wooden
storm windows that need to be put up in the fall and taken down in the
spring when they're typically replaced with wooden-framed screens.
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Storm windows play a key part in making your home
energy efficient. They act as a buffer against wind.
Additionally the air trapped between the storm windows
and the main windows acts as insulation. Storm windows
shield the primary windows from the weather, which can
extend time between paint jobs.
If you're tired of the ritual of putting up and taking down the wooden
storm windows (even though we know how incredibly thrilling it is), there
are newer alternatives like vinyl or aluminum storms. They install
permanently and easily open from the interior of your house, leaving you
the choice of whether or not to use the screen. Sliding the screen out of
the way also allows sun in through the glass doors to warm up your house.
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Another advantage of having storm windows installed is that the extra
layer of glazing cuts down on street noise. This is great if you live in a big
city or if the local marching band uses your street to practice. Finally,
storms keep out dust and dirt that might otherwise slip in through leaky
prime windows.
[Window Treatments and Coverings]
Window treatments and coverings are the last lines of defense from
cold and heat. Not only do they serve a purpose but they can also
enhance your home's aesthetic appeal. Carefully selected window
treatments can reduce heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer.
Here’s a list of great options:
Awnings
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During the summer months, awnings can
reduce solar heat gains by up to 65% on
southward-facing windows and 77% on
westward-facing windows. Awnings can be
used to shade one window or the entire side
of your house and you can have them
custom-made, of course.
Back in the day, awnings were made from metal or canvass and had to be
changed every few years, making it expensive business. Now they’re
made from more lightweight materials like acrylic and polyvinyl laminates.
They’re water repellent and treated to resist mildew and fading. Keep in
mind that whichever fabric you go with should be opaque and tightly
woven. A light-colored awning reflects more sunlight. Awnings require
ventilation to prevent warm air from getting trapped near the windows.
Caution: despite what action movies would have you believe, if you try to
jump onto your awning from the fifth floor, it probably won’t break your fall!
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Types of Awnings
Venetian or Sideless Awnings – can be adjusted as the angle of
the sun changes but are not effective at blocking direct sunlight on
south – facing windows.
Hood Awnings - have added sides to block out additional sun and
are more effective.
Hip Awnings - project out and down to accommodate casement
windows that open outward.
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Window Blinds
These are more effective in
reducing summer heat gain than
winter heat loss. Using vertically
or horizontally slanted blinds
make it hard to control heat loss
but flexibility helps a lot in controlling the amount of sunlight and air
coming into your home. These also effectively deter nosey neighbors!
2 Types of Blinds
Interior – In the summer, when fully closed, highly reflective blinds
can reduce about 45% of the heat coming into your house as they
reflect sunlight.
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Exterior – Mounted above the window. Usually made of wood, steel,
vinyl and aluminum. They can regulate ventilation and the amount of
light entering your house.
Commonly known as “window tints”, these
window coverings are best for long cooling
seasons as they reduce solar heat. They offer
a distinct advantage in controlling the sun’s
heat while permitting useful light from outside.
Yet they afford privacy and security inside the
house by protecting from bright glare. They
also keep cracked window portions together which prevents glass from
shattering.
To keep those home furnishings and decorations looking their best, a
window film with a high percentage of ultraviolet light rejection is a good
choice. Many films can now block almost 99 percent of the sun's
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ultraviolet rays!
[Insulated panels]
These are prefabricated solid sheets of building material that are
generally made from a foam core, sandwiched by layers of oriented
strand board (OSB). They are most commonly used for walls and roofs
but can also serve as floors and foundations.
[Shades]
Shades are one of the most popular window coverings.
They serve their purpose while gentling allowing some light in. The
roller style was once the only window shade available. Today there
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are more window shade styles than ice cream flavors or cell phone
providers. One popular window treatment is the roman shade.
Types of Shades
Shades differ by the material from which they’re made.
For instance:
1.) Honeycomb/Cell Shades
2.) Woven Wood and Bamboo
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3.) Roman Shades
4.) Roller and Solar Shades
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5.) Pleated Shades
6.) Exterior Shades
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7.) Horizontal Shades
[Shutters]
Shutters are solid and stable covers. Shutters may be
employed for a variety of reasons including
47
controlling the amount of sunlight that enters a room, privacy,
weather protection and a better looking home. The 2 kinds of
shutters are interior and exterior.
Interior shutters can swing in or out, allowing access to a window or
letting light into a room. Exterior shutters were originally designed
for light control, privacy and protection from the elements.
Functional shutters hinge to either side of a window (or at the top)
and swing closed when necessary.
[Storm Panels]
Storm panels are cost-effective means
of storm protection. They are a good way to
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protect your home from hurricane force winds, census bureau
workers, rain and flying debris. With storm panels, you can protect
your home AND let the light in at the same time during a hurricane or
tropical storm. Best of all: they're pretty darn cheap!
[Doors]
What type of exterior doors do you have? Are they old, wooden doors? Or
are they new, energy efficient steel doors? By replacing your doors, you
can save hundreds of dollars on your heating costs. While these are a bit
more expensive than windows, they're much easier to install.
You can get replacement doors with a steel core at any home improvement
store or you can even purchase them online. By purchasing online, you
can usually save money. Look for energy efficient steel doors and
measure the type of door that you need. Chances are that you need a
standard sized door. A special order door may be a bit more costly, but a
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steel cored door will help keep all the draft out of the house.
Steel core does NOT mean unattractive. Steel doors come in a variety of
different styles and colors. Some come unpainted and have to be finished
before installation. Many doors have a handsome wood-colored finish.
Unlike wooden doors, steel doors are impossible to kick in, so in addition to
saving money, you'll also be making your home safer for you and your
family.
Installing the door is easy enough. Simply remove the old door and put the
new door in its place! Note: Don’t drop door on self. You'll probably want
to change the hardware and locks as well. These items are cheap and
easy to install and are available most anywhere.
Once you've installed the new door, make sure that you caulk around the
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woodwork both outside and in to ensure that it's sealed properly.
[Screen Door]
Another thing you can do to make your home more energy efficient is to
install a screen door. A screen door is not only a good idea for the warm
weather when you can open the main door and allow some air to circulate
in the house, but it will also protect your house from the cold. The screen
door acts as a barrier against cold weather. Most screen doors come with
insulated glass that affords double insulation in the area of the door.
Be sure to check under the door for gaps. Most doors have a gap
underneath, particularly older doors. If you're not going to replace the door,
you should invest in a weather stripping kit. This will allow you to fill up any
gaps between the door and the home.
If you can't afford a weatherstripping kit or don't really want to embark on
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the adventure (and what an adventure it is!), you can simply place a towel
or blanket under the bottom of the door to keep the draft out. There are
items called “draft dodgers” that do exactly that (just don’t tell your crazy
veteran neighbor that you have draft dodgers in your house). They work to
keep the house less drafty in the winter but won't give you the advantage of
weather stripping in the summer.
In addition to guarding the bottom of the door from drafts you can also
caulk around the door on the inside and outside to seal out any moisture or
air coming through.
If you have a screen door, opt for thermal glass and remove the screen in
the winter. In warmer weather, put the screen back in to save on cooling
costs by allowing fresh air to circulate in the house.
[Garage]
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Another door you should look at is your garage door. If you have an
attached garage, you will want to make sure that the garage door is
insulated. This will keep the garage from getting cold and drafty and save
on energy, especially if you have a heated garage.
A garage door can be an expensive replacement and usually runs around
$500 for a two-door garage door. However, if you're going to replace a
battered wooden garage door, ask for the energy efficient model. An
energy efficient garage door is made of steel and keeps the drafty, cold
weather outside where it belongs. A steel garage door will also last a lot
longer than a wooden garage door and is maintenance free.
If yours is an attached garage, going for the energy efficient door will
translate into more heat retained in your entire home!
Don't neglect the door that opens to the garage. Seal this door as well. If
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it's a newer utility door, it's most likely made out of steel and already
insulated.
Insulating all the doors in your house is a fantastic, simple step towards
having a more energy efficient home. If you're on a tight budget and
replacing doors is not an option, caulking around the doors and using draft
dodgers is the next best thing.
It's pretty easy to seal your doors every winter. Not only will this little bit of
maintenance keep your home more energy efficient by keeping cold
weather out, but it will also extend the life of your doors significantly.
Remember that replacing old, wooden doors with steel core doors is will
save you money and help keep your family safe. That makes it well worth
the cost, and considering how simple they are to install, it should be a no-
brainer!
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Chapter 4 – Attics, Roofs & Energy
Loans
[Attic]
If you don't already have one, look into an attic fan. An attic fan makes
your home more energy efficient in the summer and wintertime. In the
summer, it sucks all of the hot air out of the house. Since hot air rises, your
attic is going to be the hottest space in your house. An attic fan cools down
the house in seconds once you turn it on by spitting all of the hot air
outside. If you have a crawl-type attic, a fan will still be a major player in
keeping your house at a sane temperature.
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How long has it been since the attic has been insulated? You probably
have it on your to do list:
1. Do laundry
2. Pay Bills
3. Insulate attic
. . . Maybe not . . .
But if the attic is unfinished and the house is on the older side (as is the
case with many houses that have walk-in attics), chances are that this
room is freezing in the winter and steaming hot in the summer. The culprit
is poor insulation.
Proper insulation = Energy efficient home. Capiche?
If your attic is still dressed in the same insulation that came with the house,
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it may be time for a wardrobe change. Newer insulation is WAY more
efficient. Generally, it pays to reinsulate your attic every couple of years.
Finally - don't forget your attic windows!
[Roof]
What type of roof do you have on your house? How long has it been since
you replaced the roof? Your roof should be replaced every ten years, to
avoid leaks. If you live where it's hot, you probably have heat-resistant clay
shingles. If you live in an area where there are both cold and hot
temperatures, you probably have shale shingles.
Newer shingles outperform older shingles significantly in terms of energy
efficiency. You can re-shingle your roof twice before you have to get an
entirely new roof. A new roof consists of taking off all of the existing
shingles and replacing the tar paper. In some cases, rotten wood must
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also be replaced. A new roof can be a very costly endeavor and should
only be done every 30 years or so.
If you do spring for a new roof, take comfort in the fact that the home-
improvement industry has made great strides and the tar paper and
shingles on the market today are vastly superior to their older counterparts.
A much more likely scenario will be re-shingling your roof at some point.
Mmm-mmm! I can’t wait to do me some shinglin’! Because the shingles
used today are more energy efficient and pleasing to the eye than those
used years ago, you'll have neighbors complementing you on your shingles
regularly. You'll also be saving money. Win-win.
There is quite a difference in price when it comes to re-shingling and re-
roofing the house. Re-shingling the roof usually will cost around $2,000.
Getting an whole new roof costs more in the $10,000 ballpark. These
prices are just estimates, but you can see there's a pretty big difference.
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Adding a new roof, however, does add to the appraised value of your
home. While this is not something that anyone would do just to make their
home more energy efficient, remember that by undertaking such a project,
you are essentially better guarding your home against the elements.
Getting a new roof will fall into the “energy efficient” category if you choose
to get an energy loan for your home.
Speaking of which . . .
[Energy Loans]
Some banks and lending institutions offer energy loans to homeowners.
The purpose of these loans is to lend homeowners the money that they
need to make their homes more energy efficient. If you're planning on
making any of the changes that we've talked about so far, you should take
a look at the different energy loans available on the market today.
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An energy loan funds improvements that will save you money on your
energy bills. Since these are subsidized loans, banks are eager to grant
them and getting one is easier than you might think.
Here are some ideas of how you might use loan money:
Get a new energy efficient furnace
Get a new energy efficient hot water heater
Get new energy efficient windows
Get new energy efficient siding or fascia
Get a new energy efficient roof
Get new energy efficient appliances
You can apply for an energy loan either online or at your local lending
institution.
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You can get a loan based upon the projected value of your home if you're
doing extensive renovations, or based upon the value of your home at the
present time. If you've been in your home for a while, you may be
surprised at how the value of the home has increased over the past few
years. Energy efficient loans are typically given at a lower rate than an
ordinary home improvement loan and are also given for more money than
you would normally be eligible to borrow on an ordinary home improvement
loan. The reason for this is to give you an incentive to upgrade into a more
energy efficient home.
No one wants to deal with sky-rocketing energy costs it's not like we have a
choice. The cost of heating fuel has been a problem for quite some time
and the cost of electricity is not much better. Saving energy has been a
goal of most companies that provide items that run on energy for the past
40 years. We notice that products that we use for our homes, such as
household appliances, are now much more energy efficient than years ago.
And companies that make these products are still working towards making
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them even more energy efficient than ever.
It’s a smart idea to make your home more energy efficient. Whether you
just choose to use better light bulbs or decide to take out a loan to renovate
your entire home, you'll be working to save energy, save money and help
save the planet.
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Chapter 5 - Hot Water Heater, Furnace
and Air Conditioning
OK, let's be fair - it's not like your hot water heater complains that it has a
fever and needs to stay home from school. But when's the last time you
checked the temperature on your hot water heater? It's probably set way
too high! You don’t really want to scald yourself in the shower, do you?
And you should never use hot water from the tap for cooking as it may
contain lead. What's the point of having the hot water heater turned up that
high?
Yes, you want to make sure that you have hot water for showers and baths
and to wash dishes, but that doesn’t mean you have to have boiling water
all of the time. By lowering your hot water heater temperature by a few
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degrees, you can save some bucks on your heating bill. Even lowering
your hot water heater just one notch can make a difference in your bill.
In addition to making the house more energy efficient, lowering the
temperature on the hot water heater is a good safety practice, particularly if
you have children in the house. Each year, children are scalded with hot
water because the water heater is turned up too high. If you lower the
temperature on your hot water heater, you run less of a risk of it happening
to one of your own children.
By limiting your shower time you can cut down on energy bills. Set the
timer for five minutes and get out of the shower when the timer goes off!
Making this a daily habit will save you about $200 a year on your water bill.
Remember that conservation is a mindset. By remaining conscious of how
much water and electricity you consume you become a more responsible
global citizen and keep money in your pocket.
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[Furnace]
When was the last time you had your furnace cleaned? When was the last
time you changed the filter? If you haven't done this, you're probably
wasting quite a bit of energy and sabotaging your furnace's efficiency.
The furnace should be cleaned by a heating/AC professional once a year.
A lot of these contractors run cleaning specials in the beginning of autumn.
In addition to cleaning the furnace, if you have gas-forced air, clean the air
ducts as well. These can be vacuumed out if you have a hose attachment
for your vacuum cleaner. Most furnace repairmen or heating and air
conditioning contractors will do this work for you for pennies. A lot of carpet
cleaners also do ducts.
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Cleaning the air ducts and furnace is crucial to maintaining an energy
efficient home. This ensures that the furnace runs properly and distributes
clean air throughout the home.
The furnace filter should be changed monthly. There are several different
types of filters on the market today and some of them are more energy
efficient than others. There are also non-disposable filters that can end up
saving you money. Rather than replace them, you simply wash them (or
get your wife to do it!)
If your furnace is older than 20 years, you should consider getting a new,
energy efficient furnace. Newer models are much more energy efficient
than their older counterparts. While a new furnace can be quite an
investment, it will normally end up saving you money on both your heating
and - if you have central air conditioning - your air conditioning costs as
well. The fan will work more efficiently and the entire unit will be more
effective.
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If you have hot water in your home that comes from a boiler, you can also
make the boiler more energy efficient by having it serviced once a year.
The lines in the boiler can be bled to make sure that the unit runs more
efficiently. Boilers heat a home using hot water, which is distributed
through radiators and floor units. This is a cleaner heat and generally more
energy efficient as it uses less fuel. Boilers are not used in many homes
today because they don't allow the possibility of central air conditioning.
Most homes that have boilers don't have central air and have window units.
This is because there is nowhere for the central AC to distribute the cold
air, as there are no heating ducts in the house!
Furnaces and boilers should be serviced each year by someone who
understands how they operate. Bleeding the lines of a boiler is not difficult
and will make sure that all of the air bubbles are out of the lines so that the
hot water can be distributed evenly. Cleaning a furnace is something that
most furnace companies do at a low cost and is well worth the money.
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By taking care of your existing furnace and boiler you can make your home
more energy efficient. When it comes time to replace the boiler or furnace,
make sure that you get one that is energy efficient and you will see your
heating costs plummet!
[Air Conditioning]
When we talk about making a home more energy efficient (my personal
favorite conversation-starter), we often
think about what we can do to keep the
cold weather out and warm weather in.
There are times, however, when we want
to do just the opposite. It's just as
important for a home to be energy
efficient in the summer months as it is
during the winter months, especially with the rising cost of electricity.
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Most AC units run on electric energy. They work by using Freon, a
compound that cools the air before it's distributed into the house. Many AC
units, especially older ones, run out of Freon and need to be refilled. If the
AC unit is out of Freon, or has a leak, chances are that the unit will run and
run but won't cool you down much. The AC will have to run three times
longer than usual to get the same effect. Depending upon the levels of
freon in the unit, you may not even realize this is happening.
Obviously, if the unit is completely out of Freon and the house isn’t getting
any cooler, something's wrong. However, if the unit is simply low on Freon
and the house is staying cool, you may not realize that your AC unit is
working extra hard!
By getting your air conditioning unit serviced on a regular basis, you can
save yourself quite a bit of money in electricity charges. If the AC is just
low on Freon, the heating and air conditioning contractor can refill it for you
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at a fraction of what you will pay on your first electric bill if running an
uncharged air conditioner.
If your air conditioner needs to be replaced, go for an energy efficient unit.
Most AC units made today are much more energy efficient than those
made years ago. You'll be pleasantly surprised to discover how much
money you can save with a newer model. You may even decide to throw a
“Wow, I can’t believe how much money I saved!” party . . . can I come?
If you have window AC units, you may think that you can't do anything to
save on energy. If these units are attached to the house, make sure they're
cleaned to keep them in good working order. Also caulk or weatherstrip
around the unit for maximum insulation.
Removable window units should be taken off and stored each winter.
Simply keep the unit clean until until it's time to put it back in place. Most
window units have screens that cover the opening in the window to prevent
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the cool air from escaping. These are energy-wasting nightmares! You're
better off covering the part of window holding the AC in place with pieces of
insulation. While this may not win you a "most beautiful house on the
block" award, it will do a better job of keeping the cool air in the house than
the flimsy screens that come with window air conditioning units.
Installing ceiling fans in your rooms is another way that you can save on
energy costs. Overhead fans not only spread cool air throughout the
house, but warm air as well. They're a smart choice when it comes to
making your home more energy efficient and run on only a fraction of the
electricity of an AC unit. They're generally inexpensive and often feature
light kits to give you the option of an extra light source in the room.
Combining ceiling fans with energy efficient bulbs in the lighting kit can
really help you stretch out your utility savings.
The fans are easy to install if you already have an electric connector in the
ceiling. If not, you'll need to have an electrician come out and wire the
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ceiling to act as a fixture. This is usually a one-day job and costs about
$100 per room.
To save on AC costs in the summer, use floor fans in each room. They do
wonders when it comes to cooling things down in the house and run on a
fraction of the electricity compared to an AC unit.
[Geo-Thermal Heat Pumps]
Recently, advancements in energy-efficient cooling methods have
paved the way for ecologically conscious domestic living.
One innovative way homeowners are saving energy is by installing
geo-thermal heating and cooling systems, also known as Ground Source
Heat Pumps (GSHP). These babies have been touted by the EPA
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(Environmental Protection Agency) as "the most energy-efficient and
environmentally sensitive of all space conditioning systems".
The closed-loop system is the most common type of geo-thermal unit
for homes, which utilizes polyethylene pipes buried under ground, either
vertically, like a well, or horizontally in three- to six-foot trenches. They can
also be buried under ponds, in which case water or an anti-freeze/water
mixture is pumped through them. During winter, the fluid collects heat from
the ground and carries it through the system and into the house. During the
summer, the system reverses itself to cool the house down by pulling heat
from it, carrying it through the system and placing it back in the ground.
Homeowners can save 30 to 50 percent on their cooling bills by
replacing their traditional HVAC systems with ground source heat pumps.
The initial costs can be up to 30 percent more but that money can be
recouped in three to five years. Most states also offer sizable tax
deductions for purchasing this type of unit. Another benefit is that the
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system lasts longer than traditional units because it's protected from the
elements and immune to theft. Let’s face it, how cool would it be to tell
people that you heat your home using geothermal energy?
Amazingly, GE® Energy Star® recently unveiled a 115 Volt Room Air
Conditioner(!)
Summertime means running the air conditioner non-stop. When the
temperature rises, the efficiency of our air conditioners drops dramatically.
Here are some steps you can take to help your A.C. run more efficiently
and increase savings.
Leave the thermostat alone
Many people are good about leaving the air conditioner at 78 degrees F.
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Some even take it upon themselves to set the temperature higher when
there's no one home. If you, too, make a habit of this in your home, make
sure that no one drops the temperature below 78. You may think this cools
the house down faster but it actually cools at the same rate, regardless of
the setting. Adjusting the temperature to 70 degrees will not help your
house get down to 78 degrees any faster than if it were left at 78.
Keep the curtains closed
Natural light can help reduce your lighting costs. However, if no
one's in a room, it's best to keep the curtains closed during the day.
This goes double for houses with windows on the eastern and
western sides. Keeping the sun's direct rays from entering the house
helps reduce the amount of effort your air conditioner puts forth to
keep the house cool. To capitalize on this effect, open the drapes,
blinds, or curtains in the evening to allow heat to escape through the
windows of your house.
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Turn on a fan
In some climates, you can turn the air conditioner off at night and
just let the ceiling or floor fans cool you in comfort. The energy used by a
fan is far less than that of the air conditioner. If you live in a warmer
climate, fans can still provide a comfortable breeze. Using the fans at
night may allow you to set the air conditioner above 78 degrees and
save a ton of energy. Fans can also help move cool air around the
house and ease the workload of the air conditioner.
Get rid of hot air
Use an exhaust fan when cooking to help expel hot air from the
house. If you don't have an exhaust fan, cool the room by setting up a
floor fan in the kitchen while cooking. The fan not only cools the air, but
also helps move it out of the kitchen.
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Use the dehumidifier
When people say, "it's not the heat, it's the humidity," they're right!
If you have a dehumidifier, turn it on when the temperature rises.
Ridding your house of humidity will go along way towards your family's
comfort. You may even be able to set your air conditioner above 78
degrees when using a dehumidifier combined with fans.
Keep your air conditioner out of the sun
The ideal location for a central air conditioning unit is on the north
side of a house. While this may not be practical in every case, the
general idea is to keep the unit out of the sun and can be achieved in
other ways.
Landscaping does more than make your yard look nice. By planting
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shrubs or trees around your air conditioning unit, you can help it cool
your home more efficiently. The shade from the plants can also be used
to keep the sun's direct rays off your home!
Save chores for the right time
While cooking can heat up the kitchen, so can using the
dishwasher to dry the dishes. Clothes dryers located in the house can
have the same effect. These tasks are better left for the evening time or,
better yet, when no one's home. Taking on labor-intensive tasks can
also make you feel uncomfortable during the hottest times of the day. If
possible, do them in the evening or the early morning when the heat is
more bearable.
Central air conditioners and air source heat pumps are both widely used
in the U.S. and are the best options for maintaining comfort in areas that
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experience high humidity. Heat pumps are much more efficient than
central air conditioners and can be used very effectively both for heating
and cooling in the southeastern states. Both central AC and air source
heat pumps are rated according to a Seasonal Energy efficiency Ratio
(SEER). This is the cooling output divided by the power input for a
hypothetical average U.S. climate. The higher the SEER, the more
efficient the AC.
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Central AC Air Source Ground
Heat Pump Source Heat
Pump
Click Here For Heating Efficiency
Requirements
Market Range 13-21 SEER 13-17 SEER 8.7-20.4
Available 9-14 EER 9-13.5 EER EER
Open Loop:
16.2 EER
ENERGY 14 SEER 14 SEER Closed Loop:
STAR 11.5 EER 11.5 EER 14.1 EER
DX:
15.0 EER
15 SEER 15 SEER
CEE Tier 2
12.5 EER 12.5 EER
CEE N/A
16 SEER 16 SEER
Advanced Tier
13 EER 13 EER
3
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[Thermostat]
Check out the type of thermostat that you have in the house. If it looks
anything like a rotary telephone, replace it with a programmable thermostat.
They're available at home improvement stores for under $100 and give you
a lot of control over your energy consumption.
Programmable thermostats accurately keep the house at your temperature
of choice at all times. Older thermostats typically turn heat and AC on and
off frequently, which is a big energy drain. Newer units come with a timer
that saves you the trouble of constantly adjusting the temperature, which
wastes time and electricity. During the day, the temperature can be less
comfortable in the house than in the evening when everyone is home. By
having the temperature on a timer, you are effectively making your home a
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climate controlled environment (sounds cool, huh?) and increasing savings.
With one of these programmable thermostats, keeping the house at a given
temperature year-round is a piece of cake! Switching between heating and
cooling is done in the press of a button as is turning it off altogether when
you don't need it.
A climate-controlled environment will end up saving you money on your
energy bills and is one of the first steps to take when creating an energy
efficient household.
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Siding
Most people like aluminum siding, fascia and gutters because they're
maintenance-free. What you may not know, however, is that aluminum
siding and fascia can also save you money on your cooling and heating
bills.
There are a few things that you can do that will make your house more
energy efficient as well as add value to the property. These include getting
a new furnace or air conditioner, getting energy efficient replacement
windows and getting aluminum siding and fascia. Chances are, if you are
living in an older home with wooden fascia and siding, you're
underperforming in the insulation department. Aluminum siding insulates
your home. Unlike wood, which is porous, aluminum siding acts as a
barrier against the cold.
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Aluminum fascia seals the fascia that surrounds the house. Wooden fascia
eventually develops holes and a hackneyed appearance. Aluminum fascia
is one way that you can seal up the eaves of the house and keep any cold
air from getting in.
Most people wait to get aluminum fascia and siding until they are ready to
paint the exterior of the house. When compared with getting a
maintenance free exterior, they find that they can save money if they get
siding instead of just painting the wooden siding every few years. In
addition to saving money on future maintenance cost, they've added value
to their home.
When most people think about adding value to their home, they think about
making cosmetic changes such as new carpeting and flooring, praying for
new neighbors and painting rooms. While this may make your home more
pleasing to the eye and easier to sell, it does not add any appraised value
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to your home (i.e. how much you can sell it for!) There are certain things
that you can do to add real value to a home and an energy efficient
overhaul combined with a maintenance free exterior using aluminum siding,
fascia and gutters is one of them.
Chapter 5 – LED Flood Lights
Floodlights in our vehicles and
buildings help keep us safe. All of us want
to have floodlights that are energy efficient
and at the same time spare. LED Floodlights are the
perfect solution. They not only save energy but are easy on
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your pocketbook as well. They light up your front yard so you don't kill
yourself walking around at night. If you're fed up with changing your
floodlights all the time, then consider using LEDs. They last much
longer and are fantastically energy efficient.
Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) are solid-state devices (semiconductors) that
have no moving parts, no fragile filaments or delicate glass shrouds. They
contain no mercury, no toxic gasses or banned substances. They are
highly efficient and environmentally friendly and unlike conventional light
sources, LEDs do not usually fail catastrophically or burnout. Unlike
conventional lights, which burn out all of a sudden, LEDs lose brightness
gradually, making replacements easy to spot. The useful life of an LED
light fitting can be over 10 years.
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The key benefits of LED technology are:
- Energy savings – LEDs can give over 100lm/w
- Reduced maintenance costs
- No disposal issues
- Long life – 50 000 hrs 70% lumen maintenance
- Instant on (at full brightness); no warm up time – even in cold ambient
temperatures (-40)
- Shock and Vibration resistant
- Fully dimmable without affecting color, temperature or CRI
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- No IR, UV or heat radiation in the light output
- Directional light source - (avoid light pollution)
- Low voltage DC drive
Things to Consider:
When choosing a lighting solution one of the key factors will be the
required luminance (lux). This will normally be specified as a minimum lux
level that should be achieved within certain parts of the room. For
instance, an office worker may require 500 lux on their desk. The light
output (flux) of LEDs and conventional light sources is usually quoted in
lumens. As Lumens and Lux are directly related, it is possible to easily
calculate how many lumens are required to achieve the desired lux level.
However it’s important to consider the system efficiency of the light fitting
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design. In a light fitting using conventional light sources (e.g. a fluorescent
tube), a significant proportion of the light is wasted (up to 50% depending
on the design). This is because the tube is emitting light in all directions.
An LED is a directional light source and only emits light in a forward
direction. In a typical LED light fitting, the LED is paired with a high
efficiency reflecting optic, which captures the majority of the light emitted
(90%) and then directs it to the target area in a appropriate beam pattern
determined by the optic design (cool!)
This means to get the desired lux level at the target surface you need
to have more lumens emitted from the conventional light source than from
the LED. This in turn means much greater efficiency from the LED light
source as you need even less power even though you do not have to
generate as many lumens from the conversion of electrical energy into
light.
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LED lights are great for indoor and outdoor decoration purposes. On
top of that, they offer many benefits. They help save energy because they
emits most of their energy as heat. The typical lifespan of an LED light is
70,000 to 100,000 hours. In addition, they are durable in both the heat and
the cold.
When shopping for lights, you have to keep in mind where you'll be
using them. For staircases, you should use LED recessed lighting. It’s best
that you use round LED lights, which are installed halfway up the staircase
wall. If you want to use it in a nursery, you should use a blue color light.
Cool colors such as Blue color LED lights have been shown to create a
peaceful environment.
For your garden, you can use different colors of LED lighting to create
an amazing effect. Light up the garden gnomes to scare neighbors. We
tried it and it’s a riot! Additionally, the colorful lights will make the garden
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come alive at night. Ground Buried LED lighting will create an interesting
outline in the patio area. If you want to use Ground Buried LED lighting,
make sure you install a good drainage system. To install the drainage
system, you must encompass an area wider than the LED unit. There's
even submersible lighting you can use in a pond. The submersible lighting
is totally waterproof so it won't become damaged when submerged in
water.
When choosing an LED light, check the wattage of the bulb. Wattage
refers to the amount of electricity that the light bulb uses. If it has a high
wattage, it will consume a lot of electricity. Consequently, you'll wind up
with a higher bill. The wattage of an LED bulb is between 1 and 5 watts.
Opt for a lower wattage bulb to keep costs low.
Lumens refer to the brightness of the lights. The higher the lumens,
the brighter the light the LED will produce. LEDs with higher lumens tend to
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be more efficient. LED lights primarily focus on lighting an area. So if you
put a bulb in a display cabinet, you will need an LED light with a focus
lighting beam. If you use it for reading, make sure it provides a wider light.
Before buying your lights, you should identify the types of connections used
for the bulb fittings. There are two types of connections: GU10 and GU5.3.
The LED lighting should match with the connections of the bulb fittings in
your home.
It's easy to install the LED lighting in your home. If you don't know
how to install the LED lighting, you can hire a DIY professional to help you.
Shopping for LEDs online is by far the cheapest way to go. Online lighting
stores often advertise coupon codes, which you can use to obtain a
discount on your purchases. If you shop for LEDs online, you can even use
the "compare prices" feature in a search engine to compare prices between
different lighting stores.
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Chapter 6 – Laptops
Laptop users should be especially concerned with power
consumption as they rely on the limited power supply of a battery. This is
to say nothing of the energy costs that come into play when a laptop is
plugged in!
Few groups have dedicated as much
research and development into power efficiency
as portable PC makers (what a shocker), resulting
in a plethora of low-voltage processors, energy-
efficient LED displays, solid-state hard drives with no moving parts
and various power-saving operating-system features.
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Without skimping on hardware, laptops run on Microsoft Windows
XP Home edition, include a 15.4-inch screen, built-in wireless-LAN, and a
DVD burner, giving users a 20 percent improvement in battery life over
comparable systems.
Things to Consider:
Laptops offer an incredibly wide range of power and battery options.
Some are built right into the operating system (usually Windows Vista or
XP, although similar options are available in the Mac OS X operating
system and Linux-based systems), and others are software applications
provided by specific PC makers for jumping between power presets. A
handful of systems, notably - several from Asus - include physical hardware
switches that either shift between preset power profiles or even toggle CPU
and GPU overclocking (although this still a relatively rare feature).
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Choosing a laptop with the correct components can go a long way
towards cutting power consumption and prolonging battery life. Specifically,
a new breed of low-power CPUs from Intel, AMD, and Via aim to provide
Netbooks and other low-end systems with reasonable performance using a
minimal http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_Design_Power thermal design
power (which represents how much heat the system will have to dissipate
under allegedly realistic conditions--but those can vary by manufacturer, so
bear in mind that TDP numbers may not be exactly comparable between
companies).
These are some of the best CPUs for energy misers:
Intel Atom
The smallest processor currently made by Intel, the Atom is found
in a majority of Netbook-style laptops. The most common versions are
the Atom N270 (1.6GHz) and Atom N280 (1.66GHz), both of which have
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a 2.5W max TDP. Atom-powered systems such as the Asus Eee PC
1000HE and Acer Aspire One AOD150 can top 6 hours of battery life.
Intel ULV Core 2 Duo
Known by their "U" designation, this is Intel's ultra-low-voltage
dual-core processor line, commonly found in high-end 12-inch
ultraportable laptops. Delivering faster performance than an Atom CPU,
a chip such as the 1.06 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo U7500 has a 10W max
TDP. An updated line, referred to as CULV (Consumer Ultra Low
Voltage), and intended to bridge the gap between low-cost Atom
processors and expensive ULV processors, is expected to start showing
up in mainstream laptops starting mid-April 2009.
By way of comparison, a typical mainstream laptop CPU, such as the
2.53GHz Intel Core 2 Duo T9400, has a max TDP of 35W.
AMD Athlon Neo
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Intended as a step up from Atom-style Netbook processors, AMD's
Athlon Neo will be seen in ultrathin laptops such as the upcoming HP
dv2. That system will have a 1.6GHz Athlon Neo MV-40 CPU that has a
max TDP of 15W.
Via Nano
Chip maker Via has replaced its older low-power CPU, the C7-M,
with the new Nano, intended to compete with the Intel Atom Netbooks.
First seen in the Samsung NC20 Netbook, the 1.3GHz Nano U2350 has
an 8W max TDP.
Solid-state hard drives
Another potentially power-saving choice is using a solid-state hard
drive instead of a traditional spinning-platter hard drive. With no moving
parts, SSD drives are by some measures more efficient. They also
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generate less heat, preventing the cooling fan from running as often.
A study by Intel showed that an SSD can spend upward of 90
percent of its time in a low-power state, while a typical 5,400rpm hard
drive only
spends about
10 percent of
its time in a
low-power
state. However,
most tests
show only a
minimal
improvement in battery life, while costing significantly more per GB
(Gigabyte) of storage.
We Recommend:
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Laptops are unique among consumer electronics in that they offer an
incredibly wide range of power and battery options. Some are built into the
operating system (usually Windows Vista or XP, although similar options
are available in the Mac OS X operating system and Linux-based systems),
and others are software applications provided by specific PC makers for
jumping between power presets. A handful of systems, notably several
from Asus, include physical hardware switches that either shift between
preset power profiles or even switch on and off CPU and GPU overclocking
(although that's still rarely found feature).
By default, you'll find three preset power plans listed: one called Power
saver, one called High performance, and a third option. The third option,
depending on the vendor, is often called "Balanced" or "Custom"; however,
some PC makers customize this plan and name it appropriately. HP
laptops call this third power plan "HP Recommended." Oh, those clever
HP folks!
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From this menu, you can choose a preset power plan, change the
settings within a specific
power plan, or simply
change a handful of
settings on-the-fly with
the quick links on the
left side of the Explorer
window.
Opting to change the settings in one of Vista's preset power plans
brings you to a new screen. The screen offers pull-down menus for
selecting when to turn off the display, put the computer to sleep when
running on battery power or when plugged in, and a screen brightness
slider for both options.
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For a good balance of usability, battery life, and responsible energy use,
we suggest the following settings as a good starting point.
On battery Plugged in
Turn off the display 5 minutes 15 minutes
Put the computer to sleep 10 minutes 30 minutes
Adjust screen brightness 50 percent 75 to 100 percent
Both the Balanced and Power
Saver set the screen brightness to less
than 50 percent, which makes for
more impressive battery life, but users
often find their screens too dark.
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Delving deeper, you'll find a link on the "Edit plan" settings page to
"change advanced power settings." Clicking on this brings up a pop-up
menu that lets you tweak the battery and plugged in power settings for how
long the HDD waits until spinning down, suspending USB ports, and dialing
down the maximum processor speed when running on battery power.
In general, these settings should be left alone, with the exception of
the "Power buttons and lid" submenu. This menu is also directly available
from the initial Power options page, where it's linked as "Choose what
closing the lid does."
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Unlike windows XP,
Vista does not require you
to enable the hibernate
function before choosing it
as an option. Hibernation
essentially saves a
snapshot of any open
applications and
documents, saves it to the
hard drive, and shuts down the computer to the same state as if you had
powered it off through the start menu. When you wake a laptop from
hibernation, you'll (eventually) end up exactly where you left off - with the
same windows, programs, and documents open.
For traveling with a laptop, setting the system to hibernate when you close
the lid is key to preserving battery life, and keeps your laptop from
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overheating in a tightly confined laptop bag. The downside is that while
waking up a laptop from sleep mode can take a few seconds, waking it up
from hibernate can take as long as booting from a powered-off state.
Setting your system's power options appropriately has several advantages.
First, you'll extend battery life and be able to work off battery power for a
longer period. Second, by extending battery life, you'll recharge your
battery less often, thereby saving both wear and tear on the battery as well
as use less electricity (although the actual monetary savings in energy
costs would be minimal).
Additionally, we break systems down into two categories for testing.
Performance systems have discrete graphics cards and use a gaming test
for the Load test, while systems with integrated graphics - which we call
Mainstream - use a general multitasking test.
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Powered-off test:
The "test system" is powered off (shut down) for at least 1 minute, but
remains plugged into a wall outlet.
Idle test:
Boot the system into the operating system.
Confirm that the system has an active Internet connection.
Leave all active launch programs turned on.
Sleep test:
Put the system into standby mode by going to the Windows Start, then
Shut Down buttons.
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Let the system sit in standby mode for 5 minutes.
Mainstream load test (for systems with integrated graphics chips):
Reboot the system and make sure it's powered on, booted up, and logged
into the operating system for at least 5 minutes.
The only applications that launch should be those that launch automatically
during system start-up.
Once it boots into the operating system, confirm that the system has an
active Internet connection.
Launch the multimedia multitasking test.
Performance load test (for systems with discrete graphics chips):
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Reboot the system and make sure it is powered on, booted up, and logged
into the operating system for at least 5 minutes.
Again, the only applications that launch should be those that launch
automatically during system start-up.
Once it boots into the operating system, confirm that the system has an
active Internet connection.
Launch the Far Cry 2 benchmark.
Reporting results
The individual tests are weighted as follows, and multiplied by the
national average cost of a kWh of electricity - currently $0.1135 - to
show average power consumption and estimate annual energy costs.
Performance
Off (40%)
Sleep (30%)
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Idle (15%)
Load (15%)
Mainstream
Off (40%)
Sleep (30%)
Idle (25%)
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Chapter 7 – Energy Efficient HDTV
Big, flat-screen HDTVs use more power than you might imagine. Now that
the old, tube televisions are starting to disappear, replaced by much larger
plasma and LCD-based HDTVs, TV lovers everywhere may be noticing a
spike in their electricity bills. Plus, with the increasing popularity of TV-
based entertainment options, such as video game, digital video recorders,
and streaming/on-demand video devices, more and more electricity is
being spent on TV-related activity. These devices aren't shy about sucking
power. But typically, the biggest energy hog in your entertainment center is
the TV itself.
Things to Consider:
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The amount of power used by an active (i.e. turned on) television is
determined by three factors:
- Screen size
- Technology type (plasma, LCD, etc.)
- Picture brightness (which nearly always depends on user-selected picture
settings.)
Screen size
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Bigger TVs use more power. A 32-inch LCD uses about half as
much power as a 52-inch LCD. Of course, the 52-incher's screen is
nearly three times as large as that of the 32-inch model, so the
efficiency payoff for going down in screen size does tend to taper off.
However, chances are that your new flat-screen TV will use more
power than your old tube TV--IF the new set is significantly larger.
Technology type
Plasma TVs use more power than LCD TVs. Since the
beginning of 2008, our tests have shown that plasmas TVs consume,
on average, roughly two to three times more electricity to produce an
image of the same brightness as an LCD. In the last couple of years,
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plasma TV makers have made some progress--Panasonic claims
improvements of 30 percent yearly, for example--but they still can't
compete with LCDs in energy efficiency. One problem is that in
plasma TVs, each pixel is a discrete light source (think of it as a tiny
light bulb), so when resolution increases, say from 720p to 1080p,
power use goes up as well. The intensity of light from each pixel must
be increased to brighten the picture as a whole.
With LCD-based TVs, on the other hand, a backlight shines
through an LCD panel to create the image. Since the pixels reside in
the panel, and not the backlight, the TV's power use is largely
independent of resolution. Many LCDs can conserve additional power
by automatically turning the backlight down during dark scenes and
up during bright scenes.
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Many newer LCD-based TVs use LEDs, as opposed to
fluorescent (CCFL) backlights. LEDs are more efficient in general and
can also employ various dimming technologies that turn down either
the entire backlight or independent sections, both of which save
power. LED-backlit LCDs are the most efficient type of flat-panel TV
available today, although the actual savings over a standard LCD
usually amounts to less than $20 a year.
Old CRT-based TVs are relatively inefficient, especially
compared with LCD TVs. However, since CRT screen size is limited,
they often don't use as much power as big flat-screen models. Rear-
projection HDTVs are actually the most energy efficient per square
inch of these TV technologies but are rare nowadays.
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Picture settings
Brighter pictures consume more power (duh), and since light
output is primarily a function of the picture settings available on all
TVs, this is the one factor that any user can control regardless of the
type of television they own. Reducing the light output of your TV can
cut power use by as much as half. And as long as you don't overdo
it, you'll still enjoy excellent picture quality.
The main settings that matter are contrast (aka "picture") and
backlight (or "cell light" on Samsung plasmas). Both directly control
light output. Nearly every TV has a contrast control, but backlight is
generally restricted to LCD models--and not every LCD has it. In
LCDs with both backlight and contrast controls, backlight is the main
determinant of light output and power use. Counterintuitively, the
brightness control has less of an impact on a TV's light output than
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the other two settings.
Other controls are also often available. Some examples include
energy saver modes (which typically limit peak light output), dynamic
settings that raise or lower the light output depending on the
brightness or darkness of the picture being displayed and room
lighting sensors that increase light output in dark rooms and lower it
when the lights dim. Engaging any of these controls will generally
reduce the TV's power use, but it will often sacrifice image fidelity.
Automatic adjustments can be distracting, for example, and
aggressive energy saver modes can make images too dim.
Other power-saving features might not affect the picture quality
at all. For example, many TVs provide a "picture off" setting that just
plays the audio, thus greatly reducing power consumption for people
who would rather listen than watch. Many TVs can be programmed to
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turn off automatically after a set period of time, whether via a sleep
timer or just after a set period of inactivity. A couple of Sony models,
such as the KDL-EX700 series takes it a step further with a
"presence sensor" that automatically turns off the picture - and
eventually, the TV itself - when you leave the room.
Other power factors
It may surprise you to hear that TVs use power even when they're
not turned on. So that the TV is ready to respond to the remote in an
instant, all sets use what's called phantom or standby power. Our tests
revealed that standby power consumption varied somewhat among
different TVs, but in general, newer models consume a negligible
amount of power when turned off. Energy Star 3.0/4.0 (see below)
require devices to consume less than 1 watt of power in standby mode
to qualify for its certification. To put that in perspective, leaving a TV that
116
uses 1 watt of power in standby mode turned off for a year would cost
just $1 based on average 2009 energy prices.
Few people have just a TV anymore, and all sorts of ancillary
devices contribute to your yearly energy costs as well. Think of all that's
plugged into your set, from a DVD or Blu-ray player, an AV receiver, and
a gaming console, to a satellite receiver, DVR, or Slingbox that never
really turns off. They all need power. It may not sound like much, but a
DirectTV DVR can use about 33 watts, while a Slingbox draws about 9
watts--constantly. All told, these boxes can use more power than the TV
itself, especially when it comes to gaming. The original Xbox 360 draws
an impressive 187 watts, but is outdone by the power-hungry
PlayStation 3, which requires 197 watts of juice (newer versions of the
game consoles are more energy efficient, however--the PS3 Slim uses
about 96 watts during gaming, for example). A recent study by PG&E in
117
California estimated that 10 percent of household power use is devoted
to TV-related activity.
TV power standards: Energy Star, California, and the FTC
The Environmental Protection Agency got serious about certifying
TVs for its Energy Star program on November 1, 2008. Prior to that, TVs
could be branded with that familiar logo without even being turned on for
testing--only standby power mattered. Then came the Energy Star
3.0 standard that mandated testing with the TV turned on. Unfortunately,
it wasn't very strict--nearly every HDTV you can buy today, including
some of the biggest energy hogs, is Energy Star certified.
In May of 2010, Energy Star 4.0 goes into effect, meaning that any TV
sold after that date must meet the new standards. The specification
requires that TVs consume 40 percent less power overall than the 3.0
spec did and also tries to prevent manufacturers from "cheating"
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because it ties light output in the default picture setting to light output in
the TV's brightest setting (aka "retail" or "torch" mode).
Unfortunately, however, we don't expect the 4.0 spec for TVs to provide
realistic buying advice to shoppers who care about energy efficiency.
Nearly every 2010 HDTV available or announced so far, including large
plasmas TVs, qualifies for Energy Star 4.0 certification. Energy Star's
more stringent 5.0 version calls for a 65 percent power-consumption
improvement over its 3.0 spec and applies the same requirements to all
TVs larger than 50 inches. It goes into effect May 2012.
Not to be confused with the voluntary Energy Star program, a
regulation passed in California actually prevents the sale of TVs that
don't meet a certain efficiency grade. However, despite stringent
opposition to the regulation by industry groups, we don't know of any
new TV--regardless of size or technology--that doesn't qualify. Again, a
more stringent version of the California program is scheduled to go into
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effect in 2013. [2013 or the above-mentioned 2012?]
Comparison shoppers can take heart in a new proposal by the FTC that
calls for actual wattage and cost estimates--those same yellow and
black Energy Guide labels found on refrigerators, furnaces, and other
major appliances--to make their way to the world of TVs. However, the
FTC has neither announced timing for the move, nor has it confirmed
that it's going to happen at all.
No discussion of TV power use would be complete without a bit of
perspective. For households that pay somewhere near the average retail
cost for energy--11.55 cents per kilowatt per hour in 2009--and that
watch near the average amount per TV--about 5.2 hours per day--the
cost to watch a 50-inch 1080p plasma TV is about $64 per year in the
calibrated light output mode (see How We Test). The average 52 to 55-
inch LCD TV runs about $29 per year for the same light output and, of
course, smaller TVs use less energy.
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Sure, both electricity costs and average daily TV use are increasing
steadily every year but those amounts still fail to make a major dent in
most household budgets. According to the Department of Energy, for
example, the average refrigerator uses nearly $90 worth of energy per
year.
It's worth noting that plasma TVs have many picture quality
advantages over LCD TVs, so people who really prize video quality may
be willing to sacrifice some efficiency. On the other hand, today's high-
quality LCDs can balance extreme efficiency with great picture quality.
As with all technologies, improvements in HDTV performance are being
made with every new generation of products and we expect power
consumption to continue to fall in newer models.
Below is a table of comparison between different brands of
HDTV’s power consumption.
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CHART KEY:
Model: The HDTV model name and manufacturer. Default sort is by
technology type, with newest reviews listed higher on the chart.
HDTV type: We differentiate between LED-backlit LCD TVs ("LED") and
standard CCFL-based varieties ("LCD"). CRT models were excluded from
this comparison because we no longer test them.
Screen size: In inches diagonal. All TVs on this list are wide-screen
models with a 16:9 aspect ratio.
Default setting (watts): Measured using the default settings when the TV's
picture is on. Prior to the Energy Star 3.0 update in November 2008, the
default settings were a sort of "torch mode," with high light output and
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correspondingly high power consumption. But since the update many new
models have dimmer pictures and less power use in the default mode.
Default setting (watts per square inch): The "Default setting (watts)"
result divided by the screen size of the TV in square inches.
Default setting (cost per year): Using the default picture setting on a TV,
this is the amount of money the TV would cost to operate 365 days,
assuming it's turned on for 5.2 hours a day and off for 18.8 hours. We
currently use the average price of energy in the U.S. during 2009, which is
11.55 cents per kilowatt-hour, according to the Energy Information
Administration. All of the TVs on this list, regardless of when they were
actually reviewed, use these figures in calculating this amount. However,
the true cost of operating a TV can vary widely depending on local
electricity costs and hours used per day.
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Calibrated setting (watts): Measured using the calibrated picture setting
when the TV's picture is on. CNET calibrates all HDTVs it reviews, which
includes adjusting luminance (light output) to a certain level. Since power
use varies with luminance, this wattage number provides a more reliable,
direct comparison than the default setting, where luminance is not
equalized.
Calibrated setting (watts per square inch): The "Calibrated setting
(watts)" result is divided by the screen size of the TV in square inches.
Calibrated setting (cost per year): Using the same figures as "Default
setting (cost per year)," this is the amount it costs to operate the TV per
year in the calibrated picture mode.
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Default Default Calibrated
Default setting setting Calibrated setting (watts Calibrated
HDTV Screen settings (watts per (cost per setting per square setting (cost
Model type size (watts) square inch) year) (watts) inch) per year)
Vizio VF552XVT LED 55 191.14 0.148 $42.54 103.72 0.080 $23.37
Samsung
UN55C8000 LED 55 129.46 0.100 $28.44 111.64 0.086 $24.53
LG 47LE8500 LED 47 90.01 0.095 $19.78 70.99 0.075 $15.61
Sony KDL-
46EX700 LED 46 87.22 0.096 $19.22 65.2 0.072 $14.39
Sony KDL-
52NX800 LED 52 122.55 0.106 $26.96 95.16 0.082 $20.96
LG 47SL80 LCD 47 187.29 0.198 $41.26 122.77 0.130 $27.12
Mitsubishi LT-
46249 LCD 46 187.76 0.208 $66.52 149.85 0.166 $58.21
Westinghouse
SK-32H640G LCD 32 89.279 0.204 $19.94 46.909 0.107 $10.65
Sharp LC-
32D47UT LCD 32 71.683 0.164 $15.84 47.752 0.109 $10.59
LG 32LH20 LCD 32 82.054 0.188 $18.17 62.741 0.143 $13.93
Samsung
LN32B360 LCD 32 75.108 0.172 $16.88 48.304 0.110 $11.00
Sony KDL-
32L5000 LCD 32 91.467 0.209 $20.12 52.69 0.120 $11.62
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Toshiba
32AV502U LCD 32 87.898 0.201 $19.51 56.031 0.128 $12.52
Vizio VO320E LCD 32 87.404 0.200 $19.41 51.608 0.118 $11.56
Sony KDL-
46VE5 LCD 46 125.31 0.139 $27.48 103.91 0.115 $22.79
Vizio VF551XVT LED 55 161.95 0.125 $35.76 99.53 0.077 $22.08
Sharp LC-
46LE700UN LED 46 101.58 0.112 $22.33 63.91 0.071 $14.07
Samsung
UNB558500 LED 55 136.16 0.105 $29.91 123.99 0.096 $27.24
Samsung
UN46B8000 LED 46 114.48 0.127 $25.16 104.93 0.116 $23.07
Sony KDL-
46W5100 LCD 46 169.87 0.188 $37.26 110.55 0.122 $24.26
Toshiba
46SV670U LED 46 174.87 0.193 $38.64 142.24 0.157 $31.48
LG 47LH50 LCD 47 186.55 0.198 $41.07 120.11 0.127 $26.51
Philips
42PFL6704D LCD 42 136.80 0.181 $30.18 183.16 0.243 $40.35
Panasonic TC-
L32X1 LCD 32 92.10 0.210 $20.69 70.16 0.160 $15.88
LG 47LH90 LED 47 140.86 0.149 $31.01 107.16 0.114 $23.63
Samsung
LN46B650 LCD 46 174.10 0.193 $38.28 119.96 0.133 $26.42
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JVC LT-46P300 LCD 46 132.78 0.147 $29.54 113.54 0.126 $25.33
Sony KDL-
52V5100 LCD 52 242.62 0.210 $53.32 159.27 0.138 $35.05
LG 42LH55 LCD 42 137.65 0.183 $30.37 93.33 0.124 $20.66
Toshiba
47ZV650U LCD 47 181.26 0.192 $39.74 114.54 0.121 $25.11
Samsung
LN52B750 LCD 52 191.15 0.165 $41.90 128.86 0.112 $28.25
Sony KDL-
52XBR9 LCD 52 237.52 0.206 $52.07 159.97 0.138 $35.07
Samsung
UN46B6000 LED 46 106.40 0.118 $23.39 86.66 0.096 $19.06
LG 42LH30 LCD 42 127.38 0.169 $28.12 94.33 0.125 $20.88
Samsung
UN46B7000 LED 46 106.77 0.118 $23.47 93.02 0.103 $20.46
Vizio VF550XVT LCD 55 221.03 0.171 $48.45 145.36 0.112 $31.87
Sony KLV-
40ZX1M LED 40 160.65 0.235 $35.22 79.46 0.116 $17.42
Vizio VO32LF LCD 32 121.58 0.278 $26.65 69.00 0.158 $15.13
Panasonic TC-
37LZ85 LCD 37 142.69 0.244 $31.28 92.59 0.158 $20.30
Vizio VOJ370F LCD 37 145.84 0.249 $31.97 76.64 0.131 $16.80
Toshiba
46XV545U LCD 46 178.59 0.198 $39.15 133.50 0.148 $29.27
127
Sony KDL-
52XBR7 LCD 52 285.68 0.247 $62.63 161.10 0.139 $35.32
Hitachi
UT37X902 LCD 37 183.73 0.314 $40.28 106.87 0.183 $23.43
Haier HL47K LCD 47 237.30 0.251 $52.02 231.73 0.246 $50.80
Honeywell
Altura MLX LCD 42 207.27 0.275 $45.44 206.74 0.274 $45.32
Sharp LC-
46D85U LCD 46 182.32 0.202 $39.97 122.97 0.136 $26.96
LG 32LG40 LCD 32 116.19 0.266 $25.47 67.86 0.155 $14.88
Sharp LC-
52D65U LCD 52 210.35 0.182 $46.11 121.60 0.105 $26.66
Sony KDL-
55XBR8 LED 55 239.83 0.186 $52.58 139.88 0.108 $30.66
Sony KDL-
52XBR6 LCD 52 272.63 0.236 $59.77 134.97 0.117 $29.59
Vizio VO32L LCD 32 104.90 0.240 $23.00 61.14 0.140 $13.40
Samsung
LN46A950 LED 46 145.98 0.161 $32.72 136.34 0.151 $30.61
Vizio SV470XVT LCD 47 239.59 0.254 $53.12 141.01 0.149 $31.51
Samsung
LN46A550 LCD 46 137.12 0.152 $30.60 101.52 0.112 $22.79
Sony KDL-
46Z4100 LCD 46 268.57 0.297 $59.17 124.71 0.138 $27.63
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Panasonic TC-
32LX85 LCD 32 97.79 0.223 $22.38 64.96 0.148 $15.18
Toshiba
42RV530U LCD 42 218.08 0.289 $48.27 114.68 0.152 $25.60
Westinghouse
VK-40F580D LCD 40 246.81 0.361 $57.83 96.55 0.141 $24.89
Samsung
LN46A750 LCD 46 184.62 0.204 $41.11 119.31 0.132 $26.79
Mitsubishi LT-
46148 LCD 46 263.78 0.292 $75.86 192.85 0.213 $60.32
Sony KDL-
46W4100 LCD 46 274.43 0.304 $60.83 140.00 0.155 $31.36
LG 32LG30 LCD 32 117.88 0.269 $26.63 61.70 0.141 $14.31
Philips
42PFL5603D LCD 42 91.23 0.121 $20.58 193.06 0.256 $42.90
Sony KDL-
32M4000 LCD 32 112.94 0.258 $25.53 78.09 0.178 $17.89
Toshiba
32CV510U LCD 32 131.34 0.300 $29.43 61.20 0.140 $14.05
LG 47LG60 LCD 47 267.21 0.283 $59.61 129.64 0.137 $29.45
Samsung
LN52A650 LCD 52 219.90 0.190 $49.16 140.80 0.122 $31.82
Samsung
LN32A450 LCD 32 130.65 0.299 $29.50 68.27 0.156 $15.83
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Sharp LC-
32D44U LCD 32 126.25 0.289 $28.40 59.75 0.137 $13.82
Insignia NS-
LCD32 LCD 32 143.20 0.327 $32.26 81.63 0.187 $18.76
Vizio VO47LF LCD 47 277.52 0.294 $61.78 141.86 0.150 $32.04
Olevia 252T
FHD LCD 52 257.29 0.223 $57.39 173.80 0.150 $39.08
Philips
47PFL9732D LCD 47 250.10 0.265 $55.94 130.69 0.138 $29.76
Panasonic TC-
P54Z1 plasma 54 274.28 0.220 $59.40 321.41 0.258 $69.55
LG 50PS80 plasma 50 384.98 0.360 $84.55 296.76 0.278 $65.21
Panasonic TC-
P54G10 plasma 54 282.85 0.227 $62.11 324.00 0.260 $71.13
Samsung
PN50B850 plasma 50 207.01 0.194 $45.52 292.21 0.274 $64.20
Samsung
PN50B650 plasma 50 252.04 0.236 $55.39 290.46 0.272 $63.82
Panasonic TC-
P50V10 plasma 50 255.61 0.239 $56.14 294.42 0.276 $64.65
Panasonic TC-
P50X1 plasma 50 217.95 0.204 $47.94 255.88 0.240 $56.25
Panasonic TC-
P46G10 plasma 46 168.78 0.187 $37.12 281.18 0.311 $61.76
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Panasonic TC-
P42S1 plasma 42 187.17 0.248 $41.03 235.32 0.312 $51.59
Panasonic TH-
65VX100U plasma 65 575.56 0.319 $126.17 415.17 0.230 $91.01
Panasonic TH-
50PF11UK plasma 50 449.62 0.421 $98.57 336.35 0.315 $73.73
Vizio VP505XVT plasma 50 474.03 0.444 $103.92 383.88 0.359 $84.15
Samsung
PN63A760 plasma 63 509.24 0.300 $111.64 416.53 0.246 $91.31
Panasonic TH-
58PZ800U plasma 58 196.37 0.137 $43.05 363.45 0.253 $79.68
Pioneer PRO-
111FD plasma 50 333.54 0.312 $73.12 293.06 0.274 $64.24
LG 60PG60 plasma 60 507.83 0.330 $111.33 385.74 0.251 $84.56
LG 50PG30 plasma 50 401.67 0.376 $88.92 324.85 0.304 $72.08
Samsung
PN50A650 plasma 50 380.58 0.356 $84.22 337.77 0.316 $74.84
LG 50PG20 plasma 50 284.64 0.266 $63.43 257.59 0.241 $57.50
Vizio VP322 plasma 32 122.97 0.281 $28.67 115.35 0.264 $27.00
Vizio VP422 plasma 42 283.83 0.377 $62.89 146.49 0.194 $32.79
Pioneer PDP-
5020FD plasma 50 293.33 0.275 $64.64 272.67 0.255 $60.11
Panasonic TH-
50PZ850U plasma 50 163.80 0.153 $36.27 284.36 0.266 $62.70
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LG 50PG50 plasma 50 401.02 0.375 $88.74 329.92 0.309 $73.15
Panasonic TH-
50PZ800U plasma 50 535.00 0.501 $117.94 286.25 0.268 $63.41
Panasonic TH-
42PX80U plasma 42 260.18 0.345 $57.82 190.53 0.253 $42.55
Panasonic TH-
46PZ85U plasma 46 454.51 0.503 $100.37 329.05 0.364 $72.86
Samsung
PN50A550 plasma 50 446.60 0.418 $98.85 373.77 0.350 $82.89
Insignia NS-
PDP42 plasma 42 216.76 0.288 $48.62 203.87 0.270 $45.79
Panasonic TH-
58PZ750U plasma 58 562.52 0.391 $124.11 489.38 0.340 $108.07
Hitachi
P50H401 plasma 50 336.10 0.315 $74.55 216.65 0.203 $48.37
Mitsubishi WD-
65737 RPTV 65 208.45 0.115 $46.04 208.27 0.115 $46.00
Mitsubishi WD-
65735 RPTV 65 219.27 0.121 $60.35 219.15 0.121 $60.33
Samsung
HL61A750 RPTV 61 171.24 0.108 $38.20 83.38 0.052 $18.94
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We Recommend:
Even after you've bought a TV, you can still make a positive
difference in your power consumption. We've assembled a short list of tips
that just about anybody can use to make their home theater more energy
efficient.
Turn the TV and other connected devices off when they're not being
used
Sure, this one's obvious, but it's easy to get into the habit of leaving
the TV on as "background" when you're not really watching it. And while
TVs still consume power in standby mode, it's a tiny fraction of what they
draw when they're actually on. Old habits die hard, but you'll be saving
yourself some bucks if you remember this tip.
Be careful to power down other connected devices, too, like game
consoles and DVD players--which are easy to leave on accidentally
even after you turn the TV itself off. A good universal remote that can
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"power down" the whole system with a single button-press can easily
pay for itself in energy savings after a year or so.
Turn off the Quick Start option
Some HDTVs and some other AV gear have an option called Quick
Start (or something similar), which allows them to turn on more quickly
when you press the power button. The flipside is that when engaged, it
typically consumes more power (sometimes up to 50 times as much)
during standby, which can really add up. Do your energy bill a favor and
turn this mode off. That few extra seconds' wait for the TV to warm up is
well worth it.
Turn down the LCD's backlight
Many LCDs give you the ability to control the intensity of the backlight
in the TV. By turning down the backlight, you'll lower power
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consumption, but also make the TV less bright. While retail stores love
to turn the backlights up all the way for their displays, we find that we get
the best image quality when we turn down the backlight significantly.
Turn on the power saver mode
Many TVs these days come with a power saver mode that's designed
to cut down the power consumption. Performance of this mode varies
from model to model, with the effect sometimes being drastic and other
times providing only a slight savings. The only downside is that the
power saver mode usually makes the TV less bright, but we've found
that sometimes this has a beneficial effect on the image quality,
especially with the room lights turned off (in which case it's a win-win
situation!)
Reduce light output with other settings
Many people buy a TV, turn it on, and never think to change the
picture settings. Not only is this bad for picture quality, it's bad for power
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consumption! Most TVs are very bright by default, which saps more
juice. One of the first things a professional calibrator will usually do is
turn down the light output--which is controlled primarily by "contrast" or
"picture" controls--along with several other adjustments that will
maximize the performance of your TV.
Control room lighting
Many of these tips are going to reduce your TV's brightness but that
can be balanced out by controlling the light in your home theater. While
this may be a little overboard just for power conservation, limiting the
light in your home theater also goes a long way toward creating the
"theater" experience, as well as getting the most out of your TV.
And beyond TV concerns, good-quality blackout shades offer thermal
benefits that keep other energy costs low; they keep heat in during the
winter and keep it out during the summer.
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Buy a smaller screen
If you're looking to buy a new TV, you can limit your power
consumption by buying a smaller set. This doesn't always exactly hold.
For example, rear-projection sets are often larger and use less power
than plasma TVs, but once you pick your display technology, going
smaller will almost always use less juice. As always, you can
compensate for smaller screen size, to a point, by sitting closer to the
screen.
Watch TV together
Having multiple TVs in a house is more of a norm than a luxury these
days, but that means your power consumption is going to increase as
well. You can cut that power consumption by watching with your family
or housemates. You might need to make a few compromises on what
you watch, but sometimes it's more fun to watch with friends and family.
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Watch less TV
Instead of sitting down for another dose of reality TV, you could opt
for reality instead. You can get some exercise and slash your energy bill
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Chapter 8 – The Best Rechargeable AA
and AAA Batteries and Chargers,
Powerstrips
Let me guess . . . You're fed up with buying and tossing out conventional
batteries. Or you've been using a battery charger that no longer appears to
work. Or your rechargeable batteries aren't lasting as long as you think
they should. But maybe you just don't know where to begin.
NiMH (Nickel-Metal-Hydride) is the current standard in rechargeable
batteries. NiCADs (Nickel-Cadmium), at one time ubiquitous, are becoming
scarce.
Batteries
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Not all rechargeable batteries are created equal. Those higher mAh
batteries -- you know, the attractive high power cells: 2400, 2500, 2700 --
tend to be rapid self-discharge cells. They just don't hold a charge for very
long and are good for shorter periods of time.
The brand doesn't appear to matter. Look for the low self-discharge (hybrid)
batteries, typically marked "lasts 4x longer ... than other rechargeable
batteries" (NOT the ones that read "... than alkaline batteries") and usually
rated around 2000, 2100 mAh -- Sanyo eneloops, Rayovac hybrid, Kodak
white cell (not the older green cell) variety, etc. These aren't quite as high-
powered as you'd like but they last longer and are less frustrating to use in
the field. Sorry, them's the facts as I understand them.
Battery Chargers
The typical 15 minute or one hour rapid-charger tends to fry batteries. The
heat generated by the rapid-charger adversely impacts the crystalline
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structure of the battery's insides and your battery life plummets.
Most battery chargers are 'dumb'; It doesn't matter how well it
currently holds a charge. All the batteries you place inside will get the same
charge. Think of filling up four 12 ounce tumblers that already contain
various amounts of water with 12 new ounces of water. What happens to
the excess?
That's not a great analogy.
Try this: Using most battery chargers is like turning on a faucet and letting it
run with no shut off, except in this case the charger indiscriminately
continues to pour electricity into a battery because most battery chargers
have no controls, no indication they're working, when they're through
working or what the heck they've done. There are some very notable
exceptions. Each has its own merits. It's up to you to decide which is best
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for you. Take heart -- there are only a couple real options.
Things to Consider:
For those of you who want to know and/or control what is happening with
your batteries, there are only two real choices: the La Crosse Technology
BC-9009 AlphaPower Battery Charger and the Powerex WizardOne aa/aaa
NiMH Battery Charger-Analyzer.
Both the La Crosse BC-900 and the Maha C-9000 are outstanding
charger/analyzers that give you detailed information and control over
charging your batteries. (They appear to leap frog each other's features
every several years.) They are capable of refreshing, renewing and
revitalizing your individual cells (you guessed it) - individually. You control
the settings for each cell separately. Both units have an LCD display by
which you can program each cell's charge / discharge and which gives you
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all the information and the control you need: charge, discharge, refresh,
test. Automatic cut-off (delta v) when fully charged and a trickle charge
thereafter for as long as you keep the battery in the charger. About the only
way to improve these units would be to plug them into your computer's
USB port and control them with fine-tuning software!
Kodak, Panasonic, Sony or Sanyo might want to jump in with their own
analyzers/chargers just to offer up some friendly competition and educate
the public.
Do I have preference? Which one would I buy? I just bought the La
Crosse BC-900. It's almost half the size of the Maha C-9000 and has far
less buttons to push for what I want to do. You may have other needs or
wants. Actually, it also has more options than what I need. Something like
the Sony BCG-34HRMF4 Battery Charger with LCD Display and 4 AA Ni-
MH Rechargeable Batteries really appeals to me for its simplicity but I wish
it had more options or at least more readouts. Something in between would
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be right for me. But for now, I opt for more options than less and make the
La Crosse BC-900 my choice.
We Recommend:
Other Battery Chargers
1.) La Crosse Technology BC-700 Alpha Power Battery Charger
La Crosse also markets the BC-700, a less powerful version of the BC-900,
for maybe, what, five dollars less, so I figure why bother.
2.) Powerex C204 Battery Charger w/4 2700 mAh Batteries
Maha also makes the C204W which has no readouts but is a marvelous
device which had no rival when introduced around 2001. It was eclipsed by
and costs about the same as the BC-900.
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3.) Sony Quick Battery Charger with 4 AA Ni-MH Rechargeable
Batteries
This simple Sony unit charges each cell separately -- very notable in such a
compact unit. No cords -- plugs right into an outlet. Has a little light that lets
you know all the cells are charged. As compact as it gets. Hard to beat at
this price.
4.) SANYO eneloop 4 Pack AA NiMH Pre-Charged Rechargeable
Batteries
Sanyo eneloops appear to be the leaders and some speculate other
companies re-brand their product -- probably not far from the mark.
5.) Rayovac Rechargeable Hybrid NiMH Batteries, AA-size, 4-count
Carded Pack (Pack of 2)
Another good choice. May be more difficult to find outside Amazon?
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[Power Strips]
Electronic devices may suck power like a vampire sucks blood, but there
are also a number of gadgets on the market designed to help cut down on
unnecessary power loss. The Kill A Watt digital wattage reader from P3
International allows you to check how much power your electronic devices
are consuming.
Vampire appliances are pretty much any that you can plug in that
still suck energy when supposedly turned off. Some are pretty obvious –
the clocks on your microwave or VCR/DVD player burn all day, everyday.
We know they’re not “off” because we cans see their LEDs glow. But other
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electronics, from your television to your cell phone charger, also draw
power when they’re plugged in but not in use. Check out a handy graph
from Good Magazine. Some gadgets are notorious, like your plasma TV.
Estimates claim that 5% or more of U.S. energy usage is insidiously wasted
by “stand-by mode” or certain misleading “off” buttons. A whopping 5% may
not sound like much, but it adds up to about $1 Billion dollars per year –
and energy prices will likely continue to rise.
Be honest – how many times would you go around the house unplugging
everything before it got old? Smart greenies have been switching off their
surge protectors, but it’s easy to forget while watching your favorite late-
night TV show or blogging at 4am. So what can we do about these metal-
toothed Draculas in our midst? How about a surge protector that turns off
all your appliances for you?
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Picture any appliance that displays a clock while otherwise idle, such
as a microwave oven, coffee maker or DVD player. They constantly
consume little bits of energy.
Ditto for things that charge, such as cell phones, PDAs, toothbrushes
or portable tools, some of which trickle a charge even after the device that's
charging is at capacity.
Some chargers halt the flow of current when it isn't needed, which
should happen automatically with chargers for lithium-ion batteries
We recommend:
Smart Power Strips are easy to use: One “master” outlet on the strip
controls six other “slave”
outlets. When the power
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usage of the master outlet decreases (by a large enough amount), it
automatically turns off the slave outlets. If you plug your “master electronic”
like a TV or computer into the master outlet, all your periphery appliances –
printers, speakers, Playstation, etc. – are automatically turned off. Oh wait,
you have a Tivo and you don’t want all of your peripheries to turn off? No
worries, the Smart Power Strip has three “constant” outlets that behave like
normal plugs so you won’t miss your favorite shows. And of course, when
you turn the “master” back on, the “slaves” will buzz to life as well. So
instead of housing a legion of thirsty vampires, you can sleep soundly with
a gadget that puts your electronics on a low-energy diet.
This is not the first or only such gadget on the market. Your choices range
from super-smart peripherals to wall monitors to watt-counting surge
protectors. You can even use a low cost, old-fashioned timer. For
your energy efficient computer needs, you can download power-saving
freeware. These applications extend beyond home use too; businesses are
jumping on the band wagon to reduce their energy costs and boost the
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bottom line. These steps could provide big savings for offices with lots of
computers and copy machines.
Smart power strips are designed to differentiate between primary devices
like computers and HDTVs, and secondary devices like printers, scanners,
DVD players, and video game systems. Why is it important to differentiate?
Because when a smart power strip senses that a primary device has been
turned off, it automatically cuts power to all of the vampirical accessory
electronics that are connected to it. After all, there’s no reason why you
should let your printer and speakers feed voraciously off the power grid if
your PC is turned off.
Things to Consider:
To verify that the chargers for your electronic devices like cell phones and
personal digital assistants consume when they are not being used, perform
this simple test. Touch your AC to DC transformer. If the wall wart is warm
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while plugged in even while your powered device is unattached, the
transformer is eating power. The Environmental Protection Agency
estimates that these so called vampire devices consume the output of 17
coal-fired power plants annually. You can do your bit to save energy by
simply plugging transformers and remote control activated devices into a
power strip which you turn off when not in use.
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Chapter 10 – Shower Heads and Toilets
For Saving Water
[This topic is already covered in the bathroom section. Integrate data from
earlier chapter into this chapter or Delete this chapter entirely?]
All efficient shower heads are environmentally friendly and use water
efficiently, but they also give a truly terrific shower. This saves you money
in two ways. First, it cuts down on your water bill. Second, it cuts down on
your gas or electric bill, because you won't have to use as much hot water.
If you're replacing an old shower head that doesn't conserve water, a new
one will often pay for itself in a matter of months.
Showerheads are measured by flow—the number of gallons they deliver
per minute (gpm). Flow is affected by water pressure, measured in pounds
152
per square inch (psi). The greater the pressure pushing water through
pipes and shower heads, the greater the volume of water forced out.
Water pressure on the high side—80 psi, for example—will push a
greater amount of water through a showerhead than low water pressure,
say 20 psi. This same principle is in effect when you don't turn on the water
full blast. Water pressure varies from community to community and even
from house to house.
A few years ago, showerheads delivered about 5 to 8 gallons per minute
(gpm) at 80 psi. The current standard for low-flow heads is 2.5 gpm at 80
psi. Some showerheads deliver only 1.6 gpm.
It's easy to judge your present showerhead's flow rate. Just hold a gallon
container under the head and clock the time it takes to fill it. If it fills up in
15 seconds, the flow rate is about 4 gpm. If it's full in 10 seconds, the flow
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rate is closer to 6 gpm. With a low-flow head, it should take 24 seconds or
more.
A quality showerhead will feel good at both high and low water
pressures. Some have flow restrictors that can be reversed or removed to
allow more water through on low-pressure lines, allowing you to achieve
the right amount of water flow for your water pressure.
Others have restrictors that work automatically. For example, Teledyne
Water Pik offers one highly rated "Shower Massage" showerhead that
automatically senses the available water pressure and adjusts to deliver
2.5 gpm.
We recommend:
Water saving shower heads are shower heads designed to
decrease water usage. There are a number of reasons to choose a shower
154
head which uses water efficiently, including a desire to save money
on water bills, or a need to comply with localized water usage restrictions.
Many hardware stores sell water saving shower heads, and it is also
possible to order them directly through various manufacturers.
Some people are under the impression that
a water saving showerhead delivers a meager trickle of water which is
barely sufficient for washing. While severely restricting the amount
of water which can flow through a shower head is one method
for saving water, there are better techniques to use.
Some water saving shower heads are so well-designed that people may
not notice the difference between them and conventional shower heads.
One way to save water is to increase the water pressure. The weaker the
pressure, the more water is needed. Many water saving shower heads are
designed in a way that increases water pressure, requiring less water to
bathe. Other water saving shower heads are designed to turn themselves
on and off, encouraging people to use water to get wet and leave the water
155
off while they lather up. Water saving shower heads with manual switches
that allow people to keep their hot and cold water settings while turning
the water off are also available.
There are also some creative ways that a shower head can be used
to encourage people to conserve water. Some shower heads are on timers
which turn the water off and leave it off after a set period of time, say - five
minutes. Others may have light displays which indicate how much water is
being used, encouraging people to shower quickly and efficiently.
Programmable settings which can be used to adjust the rate and intensity
of the water flow can also be found in water saving shower heads.
It's hard to know how well a shower head will work until you experience it in
action. Alas, most hardware stores do not have a line of shower stalls
with water saving shower heads installed so that people can can try them
all out. One way to test water-saving shower heads is to take note
of shower heads at hotels. Most hotels use water saving plumbing to save
money, and if you think that a hotel has a particularly good shower head,
156
don't be afraid to ask about the make and model. You may also ask friends
if they have a water saving shower head that you can test before springing
for one, yourself.
The Waterpik RPB-173 Drenching
Rain Fall Showerhead with Adjustable
Arm, features a handsome modern
chrome design. With a large four-inch
face, the showerhead will give you a full-
body rain fall that will have you relaxed
and thoroughly cleansed. And thanks to
OptiFLOW technology, you get up to 30 percent more spray force, giving
you good water pressure while saving water.
Waterpik makes a brushed nickel version of this showerhead, model # RPB
179. I know, because I purchased 2 yesterday that I stumbled upon at
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HomeGoods for $19.99 each. Oddly, even Google can't, as of this date,
find the RPB 179 - perhaps it's a brand new version? Anyway, it's the same
as RPB 173 except the finish is sleek brushed nickel and the face is putty-
colored rather than black.
[Toilet]
The toilet. The commode. The john. The loo. The porcelain throne. No
matter what you call it, it is inevitable that we come to discuss this device,
because every home has at least one. But more importantly, we'll discuss
the toilet because it is a technological marvel -- a fascinating water-
handling system!
How sad, then, that we hold so many bad connotations of it in our minds.
There are the things we do on a toilet, the germs we associate with it, the
images we have from public restrooms, the fact that we have to clean it --
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all of these details leave the toilet a somewhat ... tainted apparatus.
Toilets use the most water in our homes. Every day, Americans flush
4.8 billion gallons of water down the toilet. Reducing the amount of water
that your toilet is flushing will go a long way to saving water in your home
and general conservation. With one easy adjustment, you'll save money,
water and the environment… one flush at a time.
It is true -- many cities have conducted a massive drive to replace
older toilets with new water-saving models. Here's why...
A family of four can consume something like 300 to 400 gallons of
water per day on things like bathing, cooking, drinking, laundry and dish
washing. Old toilets use about 5 gallons (20 liters) per flush. When you
consider that a normal person flushes a toilet seven or so times a day, you
can see that a family of four consumes more than 140 gallons per day by
159
flushing alone. Depending on who you ask, the water consumption of toilets
represents between 30 percent to 50 percent of the water consumed by a
household each day.
The new toilets installed in your apartment use 1.6 gallons (6 liters)
per flush. If you replace those 5-gallon-per-flush toilets with 1.6-gallon-per-
flush toilets, you save a huge amount of water -- something like 100 gallons
per day per household. For a city, a big reduction like that means that you
can delay the construction of new reservoirs and new sewage treatment
plants. That's a huge incentive to replace all the toilets!
Things to Consider:
If you take off the tank cover and peer inside, you will see all of these
parts. They might look slightly different in your particular toilet, but they are
160
all there in one form or another. The three main systems that work together
are:
1.) The bowl siphon
Let's say that you somehow
disconnected the tank, and all you
had in your bathroom was the bowl.
You would still have a toilet. Even
though it has no moving parts, the bowl solves all of the problems a
toilet needs to solve. The crucial mechanism that is molded into the
bowl is called the bowl siphon, shown in the picture.
You can understand how the siphon works by trying two
experiments with your toilet. First, take a cup of water and pour it into
the bowl. You will find that practically nothing happens. What's even
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more interesting is that you can pour 25 cups (6 L) of water into a
toilet, one at a time, and still, nothing will happen. That is, no matter
how many cups of water you pour in, the level of the water in the bowl
never rises. You can see in the figure why this is the case. When you
pour the cup of water in, the water level in the bowl rises, but the
extra water immediately spills over the edge of the siphon tube and
drains away.
Now, take a bucket of water -- approximately 2 gallons (7.6 L) --
and pour it into the bowl. You will find that pouring in this much water
causes the bowl to flush. That is, almost all of the water is sucked out
of the bowl, and the bowl makes the recognizable "flush" sound as
the water escapes down the pipe. What's happened is this: You've
poured enough water into the bowl fast enough to fill the siphon tube.
And once the tube was filled, the rest was automatic. The siphon
sucked the water out of the bowl and down the sewer pipe. As soon
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as the bowl emptied, air entered the siphon tube, producing that
distinctive gurgling sound and stopping the siphoning process.
You can see that, even if someone were to cut off the water to
your bathroom, you could still flush the toilet. All you need is a bucket
containing a couple of gallons of water.
The flush mechanism
The purpose of the tank is to act like the bucket of water described in the
previous section. You have to get enough water into the bowl fast enough
to activate the siphon. If you tried to do that using a normal house water
pipe, water wouldn't come in fast enough -- the siphon would never start.
So the tank acts as a capacitor. It holds several gallons of water, which it
needs mybe 30 to 60 seconds to accumulate. When you flush, all of the
water in the tank is dumped into the bowl in about three seconds -- the
163
equivalent of pouring in a bucket of water.
There is a chain attached to the handle on the side of the
tank. When you push on the handle, it pulls the chain, which is
connected to the flush valve. The chain lifts the flush valve, which
then floats out of the way, revealing a 2- to 3-inch (5.08- to 7.62-cm)
diameter drain hole. Uncovering this hole allows the water to enter
the bowl. In most toilets, the bowl has been molded so that the
water enters the rim, and some of it drains out through holes in the
rim. A good portion of the water flows down to a larger hole at the
bottom of the bowl. This hole is known as the siphon jet. It releases
most of the water directly into the siphon tube. Because all of the
water in the bowl enters the tank in about three seconds, it is
enough to fill and activate the siphon effect, and all of the water and
waste in the bowl is sucked out.
The refill mechanism
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So the bowl will flush as long as we dump enough water into it to activate
the siphon. And the purpose of the tank and the flush valve is to hold and
then dump about 2 gallons (7.6 L) of water very quickly into the bowl. Once
the tank has emptied, the flush valve re-situates itself in the bottom of the
tank, covering the drain hole so the tank can be refilled. It is the job of the
refill mechanism to fill the tank back up with enough water to start the
whole process again.
The refill mechanism has a valve that turns the water on and
off. The valve turns the water on when the filler float (or ball float)
falls. The float falls when the water level in the tank drops. The filler
valve (or refill valve) sends water in two directions.
We recommend:
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Kohler and Sterling, offer an extensive selection of water-saving
toilets that continually exceed performance and design expectations.
Installing a 1.28-gallon High-Efficiency Toilet
(HET) saves up to 16,500 gallons of water each
year over less efficient toilets found in more than
half the homes in the US. To meet the needs of any
home, KOHLER HETs are available with Class Five®, Class Six™,
Pressure Lite®, Power Lite® or Dual Flush technology, while STERLING
HETs feature Dual Force®.
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/.../understanding-energy-efficient-
windows.aspx
http://www.efficientwindows.org
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http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:tuVnMP8BNhwZyM:http://www.newhom
esdirectory.com/Blog/image.axd?picture=2009%2F8%2Fefficientwindows.j
pg
http://ezinearticles.com/?Energy-Efficient-LED-Floodlights&id=4052734
http://www.daviddarling.info/encyclopedia/H/AE_high-
reflectivity_window_film.html
http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/windows_doors_skylights/index.cf
m/mytopic=13540
http://www.emswindowfilm.com/scotchtint.htm
http://www.blinds.com/
http://saveenergy.about.com/od/homecooling/Air_Conditioning.htm
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http://www.besthomeledlighting.com/led_floodlight
http://www.metaefficient.com/rechargeable-batteries/best-rechargeable-
batteries-battery-chargers.html
http://www.amazon.com/gp/richpub/syltguides/fullview/R3JAT53BBOVN4G
http://www.amazon.com/Rayovac-PS3-Universal-Battery-
Charger/dp/B000A0IL9C
http://www.greenoptions.com/wiki/how-to-reduce-vampire-power
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-are-water-saving-shower-heads.htm
http://www.hometips.com/buying-guides/showerheads-low-flow.html
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http://www.showerheadstore.com/
http://www.uk-energy-saving.com/water_saving_shower_head.html
http://www.eartheasy.com/shop/water_save.htm
http://www.eartheasy.com/live_water_saving.htm
http://planetgreen.discovery.com/home-garden/toilet-tank-trick.html
http://www.greenbuildingsupply.com/Public/Energy-
WaterConservation/WatersavingToilets/CaromaDualFlushToilet/index.cfm
http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-Any-Toilet-to-a-Low-Flush-Toilet
