Document Sample
reynolds Powered By Docstoc
					                              About the Area:
Reynolds Creek                      is a desertous area located in southeastern Idaho about
20 miles south of Nampa, ID and approximately one hour from Boise. The boulders are
in an area that feels far from everything, however, the closest gasoline and snacks are a
mere 15 minute drive. away.
                                                                                                Reynolds Creek
The main areas consist of the following areas: Peaches, Rock Sham Boulder, Caddy
Shack Boulder, the Main Area, Camp Ground Area, and the Bone Yard.
All of these areas with the exception of the Peaches Boulder are within a mile of one
                                                                                                Bouldering Area
another and are within a very short hike from the road. Many of the areas have roads that
take you right to the boulders.
One of the most interesting part of this bouldering area is the rock diversity              .
The road runs between the Bone Yard and the Camp Ground Boulders. The rock on the
left side of the road is all granite and the other side of the road is all volcanic rhyolite.

                           Take I-84 West out of Boise
                           Take the Nampa/Marsing exit
                               Left at bottom of exit
                          Go through Nampa city center

                    You will soon find that you are on Hwy 45
                      Drive on Hwy 45 for about 15-16 miles
                              Cross the Snake River
                  Go 200 yards and stay RIGHT atfork in the road                                 Overview of Reynolds 2, 3
                     Go 100 yards and take right at STOP sign                                    Peaches Boulder      4
                       Go about a mile and take next LEFT
              RIGHT on Upper Reynolds Creek Road past the dairy farm.
                                                                                                 Rock Sham Boulder    5
                       Drive about 7.5 miles past cattle grate                                   Caddy Shack Boulder 6
                     Look for large amounts of taller boulders                                   Main Area            7
                      on the LEFT AND RIGHT side hilltops                                        Camp Ground Overview8, 9
                                                                                                 Camp Ground Area     10
                                          Seasons                                                Seal Boulder Area    1      1
                             All are good, Spring and Fall are best
                                        Rock Type                                                Lower Area           12
                                Volcanic Rhyolite and Granite                                    Arena Area           13
                                 Number of Problems                                              Grassy Knoll Boulder 14
                                           Over 130                                              Tombstone Area       15
                      Number of Problems at or Above V7                                          Directions           16
                                          Around 30

              General Environmental Considerations:
                                 Stay on Trails.                                                        beta booklet by:
                            Leave sagebrush alone.                                                       Jamey Sproull
                        Pick Up Tape and other Trash.
                      Clean the chalk off of the problems.
             Don't scrub established problems with metal brushes.
 Bouldering Area Overview                                                Rock Sham Boulder p.5
                                                                                                                                                              Tombstone Boulder

Take I-84 West out of Boise                               ridgeline
Take the Nampa/Marsing exit
Left at bottom of exit                                                                                                                                          cave
Go through Nampa city center
You will soon find that you are on Hwy 45
Drive on Hwy 45 for about 15-16 miles
Cross the Snake River
Take the RIGHT hand fork in the road                                                                                                                               5
RIGHT at STOP sign                                                                                                                                                      fever boulders
Next LEFT                                                                                                                                ncli                 approx.        all top out
                                                                                                                                     dow              6
RIGHT on Upper Reynolds Creek Road past the                                                                                                                    10 ft
dairy farm.                                                                                                                                           7                  4
Drive about 7.5 miles past cattle grate                                 Caddy Shack Area p.6                                           9 8
 Look for large amounts of taller boulders on the                                                                         10                                  approx.        2
        RIGHT AND LEFT side hilltops                                                                                11                                         25 ft
                                                                                                               12                                                        1

                                                                                                                          approx. 40 ft tall
                                                                                                              13         topout 8-12 at 20 feet and

                                                                                                                                                          tombstone boulder


                            The Bone Yard p. 13, 14, 15
                                                                                                   1. Gangrene- VH- sds up sharp, slopey pockets to tall top out
                                                                                                   2. Hanta Virus- VH- sds up monos and sick shallow pockets, slabby top out
                                                                                                 * 3. Freddie Mercury is Dead- VE- sds this fun problem up side pulls and deep
                                                                                                   pockets to a slabby top out
                                                                                                   4. Penicillin- VE- sds to huge pockets, great way to stretch out at the day's start
                                                                                                   5. Low Grade Fever- VE sds under roof and work up thin crimpers and iffy topout
                                                                        Arena p. 13              * 6. Cold Chills- VE- sds and topout to cool slopers and deep pockets
                                                                                                   7. Cold Sweats- VE- sds in deep pockets and a one thin crimp to topout
                                                                                                   8. Fondue Dream- VE- sds and slap to sloping edge, exits left, do not top
                 Tombstone p. 15                                                                 * 9. Epitaph- VM+ sds up sweet rhyolite edges and into sloping layback pockets, exit
                                                                                                   left for a VM-, top out on questionable holds to get the full Epitaph feeling
                                                                                                 *10. Probate- VH- sds up deep pockets to a match and over the top to get the Bejesus
                                                                                                   scared out of you. Drop to ground at upper match for VE
                                                                                                   11. Mike 1- VH- sds up nonexistent crimpers
                     Grassy Knoll p.14                                                             12. Mike 2- VH- sds up more nonexistent crimpers
                                                                                                   13. Spandau Ballet- project- sds to shallow mono pockets to a sick deadpoint
                                                                      on hillside
                                                                                                   top out on slopey holds
                                                                                                   14. Requiem- project- overhung face climbing. Route is anchored

    2                                                                                              for top rope. Watch for loose rock

                                                                                                                                    Peaches Boulder
                   The Bone Yard's                                                                                               beta and directions p. 4

 Grassy Knoll Boulder

                                                                                                   f win

                                                                                                  iles o

                                                                                             7.5 m

                                                                                                                                              Main Area p.7
               8                                                                                                                                              o
                                                                     3                                                                                        l
                                     1                                                                                                                        o
                                              2                                                                   parking area                                n
                                                                                       cattle grate                                                           i
*1. JFK- VH- sds on left side of cave and climb out shallow pockets to a mantle,                                                                              l
  go right just before mantle (to Marilyn) for a slightly easier up, stay left to go                                                                          s
  with a true VH pull                                                                                                                                         i
  2. Jackie O- VM+ sds on right side of cave and pop out sweet underclings and                                                   Camp Ground Area             e
  good pockets to a mantle and topout.                                                                                              p. 10, 11,12
  3. Kissinger- VB- stand or sds up huge holds and fun moves to top
* 4. Marilyn's Red Lipstick- VE- sds up cool laybacks and good edges to mantle
  5. Depository Arete- VE- sds and slap up good holds
  6. Oswald Campus Problem- VM- sds, pull off ground, travel with no feet to right
  on decent holds, slap to top, and mantle with feet back on.
*7. Jack Ruby- VM- tricky sds slap up, then to good pockets and a great mantle,
  look for the grass, that's where you'll find the good hold at top.
  8. Conspiracy Theory- V VH- no one knows what Sus was thinking. Sds far right
  side of overhang, work up horrible crimps and sloping holds, toward left, then top
                                                                                        water tower


14                                                                                                                                                                3
                               Peaches Boulder
                                                                                                                                                                The Bone Yard's
The Peaches Boulder is located in the second canyon to your right about 3 miles past
the dairy farm as you enter the Reynolds Creek Area. Pull right off of road and up onto
a parking area. Walk straight toward hillside and off to the left down a trail. After
about a 5 minute walk you will see the boulder.
The rock is the typical Owyhee type volcanic rock but for the most part very solid. The                                    5
boulder is sitting in a bed of sand and the landing zones are perfect with the exception
of the back side of the boulder.
    1. Rotten Peaches V6. Sit start just right of Peaches. Slap up the overhang, lock off to a                                                  4
    sloper, match and reach the dirty top ledge, do not top out.                                                       6
  * 2. Peaches V8- sds and climb up small edges and crimpers, top out.                                                 7                                                   3
    3. Shelf V5- sds under the roof , dyno out to shelf. go straight up the face to a mono pocket
    and up. Don't use dirty rock to left.
    4. Peachonator V4/5- sds on a big hold under roof, traverse left to big low pocket, go left
    until you hit the wam up problem, top out.
     5. It's a Peach V2/3- sds at the small yellow corner with your left hand in a nice pocket. top
    out the gently overhanging wall
    5a. Warm Up V1- same start as 5, after the first two moves go right and straight up a lay                                                                                      2     1
    back feature.
  * 6. Mastermind V7- sds on a big pocket, match on the big sloper and crimp up until you hit
    the lip.
    6a. Mastermind the Easy Way V5 - same as #6, slap sloper with right hand only and head                                                          8
    left immediately to top out.

                       6, 6a                   rock
                                                                                                       1. Montana -VB- sds to good edges and a fun top out
                                                                                                       2. Sore Eyes- VB- sds up huge flakes, be careful of some loose rock
                                                                  1                                    3. Sternum Saw- VM- sds pockets to a mantle, watch that strernum
                                                                                                      * 4. Mausoleum- VH- sds inside a horizontal cave out thin crimpers and mantle to vertical
                                                                                                       5. Uber Classic- VM- walk up hill directly out of Arena and look for overhung boulder
                                                                                                       close to cliff edge, sds using underclings, pockets, egdes and a great mantle!
                                                                                                      * 6. Point Blank- VM- great sds on deep pockets to a sickening match on slopey bulge.
                                                                                                       Stay right by going to a thin crimp and a deadpoint to a huge jug. Tons of fun.
          5, 5a                                                                                        7. The Hole Ordeal- VH- sds mono right hand and left foot on huge edge near ground.
                                                                                                       Head slightly left and up.
                                                                                                      * 8. Elvis Has Left the Bone Yard- VE- sds this overhung classic. Can be done as a full
                        4                                                                              campus problem if you feel up to the challenge.

                                 trail                    Thanks to Mike Stoger for all of this

 4                                                           beta from the Peach Boulder
             9, 10


                                            The CampGround's                                     Rock Sham
                                             Lower Area                                         Boulder Area                  These 2 boulders are located in the flat sage
                                                                                                                              field all by themselves about a half of a mile
                                                                                                                              before the Caddy Shack boulder. It is about 7
                                                                                                                              miles from the cow grate at the dairy farm on
                                                                                                                              Upper Reynolds Creek Road.
                                                                                                                              Look on the right side of the road.

                                                                                                                                         Rock Sham Boulder
                                                                                                                                         1. Thumb War V7- sds on right sloper,
                                                                                                                      3                  left edge, traverse right and top out
                             6                                                                                            2
                                               5                                                                                         1a. Bloody Knuckles V7- same start as
                                                                    VEasy- VB-V3                                                         Thumb War, traverse across all
                                                                    VMed- V4-V6                                                          problems exit right of Scissors
                                                                                                                                1, 1a
                                                                    VHard-V7-V8                                                          2. Rock V1- sds match, go to huge
                                                     4              V Very Hard- V9-up                                                   pocket
                                                                                                                                         3. Paper V4- sds same as Rock, stay out
                                                                                                                                         of big pockets, work up crimpy slicers
                          15 14                                                                                                          4. Scissors-V3- hang start and work
                     16                                                                                                                  balancy moves to top


  1- Yellow Ribbon- sds VE- on corner
  2- Memorial Day- sds VE-super memorable warm-up                     1
*3- Non-Gender Specific Bitch- VM- sds in back
  left corner, work up face of classic up problem                                                                   Tic Tac Boulder
  4- Toe Jam Arete- sds VE- on far left side of boulder                                                             1. Meyonder-V2- sds on small edge and sharp
  5- Phummunda- sds VM- sick crimps, bring your extra skin                                                          pocket. Mantle without using arete.
* 6- Head Jam- sds VM- the "avant-garde" problem of the area. sds far right, work left                              2. Minnesoter- V0- up small egdes
  7- Wrapper- project- V VH- stand start and move into Love Me Some Blow Pop
                                                                                                                    3. It's All You- V0
* 8- Love Me Some Blow Pop- VH- stand and slap up sick slopers. work in shadows                             2
  9- Blow without the Pop- VM- start right, work left on face, top out on large flake
  10- Fuck the Stick- VE- sds great warm-up on far right side
  11- Clown Mantle- VE- stand start, slap up slopers and mantle off right
  12- Mr. Giggles- VH- about as humorous as a funnybone, sick work up slopes and bad crimpers       1
  13- Klutso the Clown- VH- sds low, work up tiny crimps and mantle
 *14- Flat Poop- VE- committing slab, scary top-out
  15- Septum Arete- VE- great fun, big holds, decent top-out
  16- Snots- VE- No beta here. Never been done the same way twice
  17- Rhinoplasty- VE- stand and go up obvious holds
  18- Farmer's Blow- VE - sds, heel hooks to decent holds

                                                                                                                                        main road

12                                                                                                                                                                    5
                  Caddy Shack Area
                                                                                                                        The CampGround's
                                                                                                        7        Seal Boulder Area
                                                                                                                                                                                     4     bastard boulder

                                                    1                                                                   seal boulder
                                                              1. Lamaze- V3- sds on                                                    3
                                                              arete, pad across sloping
                                                              lip and up
                                                                                                                                                                            start far right, work
                                                                                                                                                   *1. Seal the Deal- V VH-slopers with virtuallyup
                                                                                                                                                    tiny crimpers and slick                       no
                                                              2. Vulva- V2- be reborn
                                                              through the no-foot
                                                                                                                                                     feet. Area Classic Hard Problem.
                                                              mantle                                                                                 2. Project
                       6                                                                                                                             3. Baby Seal Bats Back- VM- Stand at 2 tiny
                                5                                                                                                                    crimpers and dyno.
                                                                                                                                                     Bastard Boulder
7                                                   4a                                                                                               4. VM- work under roof and out to right side
                                                                                                                                                     5. Bastard Son -VE- sds and up edges and slopers
      8                                                  4                                                                                           6. Bastard- VE- hang/sds- work right up slopers
                                                                                                                                                     and good crimps, top out at Bastard Son.
                                                 3, 3a

                                                                                             to main area
                                                                                                                                                                                         VEasy- VB-V3
                                                                                                                                                                                         VMed- V4-V6
                                                                                                                                3                                                        VHard-V7-V8
      Caddy Shack Boulder                                                                                                                      4                                         V Very Hard- V9-up
      1. 9th hole- V5 - sds on sloping rim of overhang. Finish on high sloping pocket.
    * 2. 18th Hole- V7- sds climb through 9th hole, finish at arete point.                                    quarter pipe
    * 3. Five Iron- V5- sds on undercling under right side of roof, climb up right side, finish on 2 sharp
      3a. Project- sds at 5 Iron, go direct to arete nose on underbelly of Caddy Boulder.                      1. Judo Air Traverse- VH- stand far left and go right
                                                                                                               1a. Tony Hawk Never Skated Here- VE- stand far left and head up
    * 4. The Wedge- V7- sds same as 5 Iron, but don't go to pockets, instead head out nose to a steep pinch    2. Shove It- VE- sds and up good edges
      and large pockets at arete tip.                                                                          3. Hosoi- VE- sds up side pulls and laybacks, look out for that top-out
      4a. Putter Traverse- V5- sds right of 5 Iron at lip, traverse lower section to beginning of 9th Hole.    4. Security in Curity -VM- two hard bump moves
                                                                                                               5. Nicolette's Sit Down Dyno- VE- nuff said
      5. Danny Boy- V0- Highball topout with good features
      6. Range Balls- V0- sds on edges, work up one balancey power moves and top out easy.
      7. Shanked V0- sds arete any way you want, medium or easy

       6                                                                                                                                                                                       11
                                                                                                                                                                                                Catalysis Boulder
                                               Camp Ground Area
                                                                                                                                                                                               *11. Miguel's Finger Crack- V2- sds, layback crack
           16            15                                                                                                                                                                      to a high-step mantle. Optional sds from within the
      17                                                                                                                                                                                         cave V3.
                                                                                                                                                    Main Area                                    12. Bird Crap Crack- V3- watch out for the nest.
                                                         10                                                                                                                                    * 13. Catalysis- V10- sds on jug, climb through
      20         21                   13                                                                   7                                                                                     several moves with thin crimps.
24               22                        12                                                                                                                                                    14. Birth Simulator- V0- climb into large chimney
                 23                             11                                                                                                                                               and exit through the small hole at the top.
                                                                                                                                                                16                               15. 2nd Pitch Problems- V0 - climb on Patina holds
                                                                                      8,9                                                                                                        at the base of the broken pinnacle.
                                                                                                                                                                                                 16. Wounded Knee- V4 - sds w/small crimps, use
                                                                                                                                                                                                 big sloper, then into fist crack, topout.

     N              25
                              26,27   28
                                                                    3                                                                                                                     15
                                                                                                                                            9             10                              14

                                                                                            VEasy- VB-V3
                                                     2                                      VMed- V4-V6                                  8
                                                                                            VHard-V7-V8                                                                             13
                                                                                                                                        7                             11 12
                                                                                            V Very Hard- V9-up
           slackline area                                                                                                                       6
                                                         camp                                                                                                    3

                  1- Cat-Faced Spider- VH- stand and go up tiny holds to slopey top-out
                  2- Overhang Boulder- VE- stand match on right side of sloping ledge                                                               4
                                                  work up pinches
                *3- Cosmic Squirrel- VM- stand, stand start beside to sloping match, then out right up sloping rail
                                            VM-                      arete, work 3 moves up, then
                *4- Knee Jerk Concussion-On- sds VM- work up tiny sharp crimpers and sloperspress out slab
                  5- I Feel a Wooh Coming                                                                                     Lorax Boulder
                  6- A Couple Woohs- VH- sds of I Feel a Wooh...
                  7- Flying Y- sds VM- work up crack, watch for loose rock at top                                              1. Box of Grain- V3 - Direct sloper problem on boulder
                  8- Grouper Boulder- Short Traverse- VE- start far right side and work left                                   that connects Lorax to Catalysis.
                  9- Grouper Boulder Full Traverse- VM- continue onto horrible slopers
                                                                                                                               2. Bedsores- V2- Start w/fragile flakes to a slopey mantle
                  10- Slab- VE- have fun
                  11- It's a Small World- VE- work a layback up crack                                                        * 3. Humping the Lorax- V8 - Climb direct face to slopey
                  12- M&M- VM- won't melt in your pocket                                                                       dish mantle. Optional topout is several grades easier,
                  13- Darwin Game- sds VE- fun moves on Lightning Boulder                                                      traverse right and exit above Bedsores V3.
                  14- Lightning Warm-Up- VE- fun crimps and high steps                                                         4. Gritty Kitty- V3- sds on good flake and tiny left crimper,
                  15- Ride the Lightning- V VH- stand on rock s & crash pads to reach first hold. Traverses to right.          up to pinch, out to right sloper crimp, topout
                  16- Hop Up- VE- Start on right side, work up sideways flake                                                  5. Grass Traverse- V5- Start in Mike's Finger Crack and
                  17- Dark Side of the Moon- VE- stand and go up left side, traverse on slopey top edge                        traverse lip, finish on slab.
                  18- Crescent- VM- sds or stand start on crescent shaped edge and go up
                                                                                                                               6. Mike's Finger Crack-V2 - sds way low
                  19- Moon Raker- VM- sds on left crimper and right large node and up
                  20- Moon Unit- VM- sds on left hand node and right hand jug at base of arete. Go up and top out to left.
                                                                                                                               7. Jagermeister- V4- sds in cave w/small crack. Exit to the
                                       a problem)- VM-          left side. Use
                * 21- Good Name (for -VE- stand and gosds ondecent dish bad holds and move up to big sloper
                  22- Mediocre Name                      up to                                                                 8. Vladmir- V3- sds on right hand corner, work up one sick
                  23- Bad Name- VE- move from two great holds to slopers. then to jugs at top                                  crimper and a sloper out of cave to the right
                * 24- Crouching Teva Hidden Chaco- VE- run-up, no climbing shoes, prferable sandals, no hands, grab jug        9. Instant Classic-V1- sds in cave and climb through hole
                  25- Camp Crack- VE- obvious crack line layback                                                               using a 2 finger pocket.

     10           26,27- Mantle Left, Mantle Left- VE- sds, stay left or heasd right, both excellent warm-up problems
                  28- Ground Control Traverse- VM- work this great traverse in shadows, start right, go left
                                                                                                                               10. Wedgie-V2 - sds big crack to cave
    direction of travel
                                              Campground Boulders

                                                     lower area                             seal boulder area
                           to the bone yard          p. 12                                        p.11

                                                                                     campground boulders

                          water tower


                                                                    slackline area


8                                                                                                               9

Shared By: