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									Sydney Bouldering Series
         &         (since 1998)

  NSW Boulder Titles

   Info Pack
                          page: 1/7
  NSW State Boulder Titles and Sydney Bouldering Series

The 2012 NSW State Boulder Titles (Round 2 of the Sydney Bouldering Series) is the
qualification event for the 2012 Australian Boulder Nationals. Climbers participating in
this competition, in Open A, Masters, Youth A, Youth B, Youth C and Youth D
categories, will earn State level points toward their National Boulder Ranking.

The 2012 Sydney Bouldering Series (SBS) is a Regional competition series designed to
promote participation, enjoyment, skills and fitness levels in climbers.

1. Dates:
The Sydney Bouldering Series will consist of three events at three different venues.
   • Round 1: 18 August – Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym, St Peters
   • Round 2: 15 September – Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym, Villawood
   • Round 3: 17 November – Bloc Climbing, North Parramatta

2. Categories:
There will be male and female categories in:

   • Open A and Open B - open to all climbers born 1996 or before
   • Pumper – open to all climbers born 1996 or before
   • Masters – born 1972 and before
   • Youth A – born 1995/1996
   • Youth B – born 1997/1998
   • Youth C – born 1999/2000
   • Youth D – born 2001 or after

                                                                               page: 2/7
3. The Events:
  3.01 All competitors must be current members of Sport Climbing Australia. This
       costs only $15 for the calendar year.
  3.02 All entry fees for all categories is $30.
  3.03 The Youth event will be a 2 and half hour pumpfest for all categories. The
       Senior event for Open B, Masters and Pumper categories will be a 3 hour
       Rules 3.04 - 3.07 apply to all Youth categories and Open B, Masters and
       Pumper (not Open A).
  3.04 Each event will involve 80-100 boulder problems. Some problems may be
       existing problems in the gym.
  3.05 An ascent of a boulder problem from the start hold/s to the finish hold/s
       scores the allocated points for the climber. Scores will range from 10 to 60
       points, as in previous years.
  3.06 A flash ascent of the problem, first attempt without touching the holds
       beforehand, results in a bonus point being added to the climber’s score for
       that problem.
  3.07 Working (practising) the moves on a boulder problem is allowed, but not
       before a flash attempt.
  3.08 Climbers must wait their turn to attempt a boulder problem.
  3.09 Climbers must follow all the normal safety procedures of the climbing gym.
  3.10 Climbers are responsible for their own safety. Climbers need to ensure there is
       adequate padding below them before starting, and organise a spotter if
  3.11 Certificates will be awarded to the place-getters in each category, in each
       round. Trophies and prizes will be awarded to the overall place-getters in each
  3.12 As the SBS is a social series, approximately one-third of the prize pool, donated
       by Mountain Equipment, will be given out as “lucky-door” prizes at each event
       with the remaining two-thirds given to the top three climbers in each category
       over-all at the conclusion of the final event.
  3.13 Climbers must compete in all 3 events to be eligible for end of series,
       overall placing and prizes. A one-competition exemption is given to primary
       routesetters who set for a round of the Series. These climbers must complete in
       at least two rounds to receive an overall ranking. This exemption is at the
       organisers’ discretion.

                                                                            page: 3/7
4. Open and Masters:
  4.01 Open and Masters Categories will be held on the Saturday Evening, from
       4:00 pm to 7:00 pm. Registration from 3:00 pm
  4.02 The format for Open A category has changed. Open Male and Open Female
       climbers have 8 designated problems (this will be 5 problems for Round 2, the
       NSW State Titles). Each problem will be scored as per World Cup format, tops
       and bonuses, with all attempts counted. Of these 8 problems, 4 will be common
       and 4 will be just for males, 4 will be just for females. The problems can be
       attempted in any order, and as many times as the climber wishes over the 3
       hour period. Open A climbers can not work problems, every attempt must start
       from the ground.
  4.03 Open B and Masters will follow the standard 3 hour pumpfest format and
       complete the 8 highest scoring boulder problems they can within the time.
  4.04 Participants in the Pumper category complete as many climbs as they can in
       the allotted time with all scores being counted toward their total. Flash
       points are still added to the climber’s score in the Pumper category.
  4.04 Open A, Open B and Pumper Categories are open to all climbers born in
       1996 or earlier.
  4.05 Open B and Pumper competitors do not need to decide whether they are
       entering the Pumper category or Open B category until they hand their
       scoresheet in at the event. However ranking points for the series cannot be
       transferred between categories.
  4.06 In all categories each competitor’s best 3 results count toward their overall
       ranking in the series.

5. Youth:
  5.01 All Youth Categories will be held on the Saturday Afternoon from 12:00 pm to
       2:30 pm. Registration from 11:00 pm
  5.02 Youth A, Youth B and Youth C category climbers complete the 8 highest
       scoring climbs they can within the time.
  5.03 Youth D category climbers complete as many climbs as they can in the
       allotted time with all scores and bonus points being counted toward their
  5.04 Climbers competing in Youth B, C and D categories can not compete in the
       Open competition. However climbers in Youth A category may choose to
       compete in the Open A or Pumper category as well their relevant age category,
       but will need to enter and pay the entry fee for both events.
  5.05 In all Youth (Youth A, B, C and D) categories all 3 results count toward the
       climbers’ overall ranking in the series.
  5.06 The route setters are committed to designing problems for all climbers and
       will be setting problems specifically for the younger and shorter climbers.

                                                                         page: 4/7
6. Special Conditions for Round 2, NSW State Boulder.
    6.01 As Round 2 of the Series is also the NSW State Boulder Titles a few special
         provisions will apply.
    6.02 During the Youth Pumpfest, 12:00 pm to 2:30 pm on the 15th of September,
         there will be roving judges ensuring that all competitors are obeying the rules
         of the competition. In particular, the judges will be ensuring that:
            − No part of the climber touches the mat once an attempt has been started.
            − That climbers start with both hands in the designated start holds, with all
               parts of the body off the mat before the first move is made.
            − That climbers finish with both hands matched on the marked final hold.
            − That climbers only use the specified holds.
         The judges will be introduced to the competitors before the event so the
         competitors are aware of who they are.
Open A Finals
6.03     Open A Category will have a finals at the conclusion of their climbing time,
         4:00 pm to 6:30 pm on the 15th of September.
            − For this event, Open A climbers will have two and a half hours of
               climbing time and will be asked to attempt 5 problems in this time.
            − As with the other events, every attempt a climber has on a problem will
               be counted, with tops and bonuses recorded.
            − The top 8 Male and Female Open A competitors will qualify for the
            − The finals will consist of 4 boulder problems for male climbers and 4
               boulder problems for female climbers.
            − Climbers will be shown the problems before the final round but viewing
               time is included as part of the 5 minutes climbing time.
            − Climbers will have 5 minutes of climbing time per problem.
            − Climbers will be scored as IFSC rules; Tops and Bonuses and Attempts
               will counted.
            − Climbers will have 5 minutes climbing time and 5 minutes rest time
               between each problem. This is done on a rotation with starting order
               randomly assigned.
            − Climbers cannot work the problems in the final (every attempt must start
               from the ground), nor can they climb the wall on other holds to look at or
               brush holds.
            − Climbers face away from the climbing areas when taking their five
               minutes rest period so they cannot watch the other climbers. They are not
               to watch other climbers during their climbing time.

                                                                             page: 5/7
7. The Revolution Team Competition:

  7.01 At each competition, climbers will be asked to nominate their team.
  7.02 Teams must represent SCA Member Institutions (Gyms). If a climber nominates
       a team that doesn’t represent an SCA Member Gym their team points will be
  7.03 The two highest placed climbers from each team, in each category, will earn
       points for their team toward the Revolution Team Competition, to be presented
       to the winning team at the end of the series.
  7.04 If a team has only 1 competitor in a category, the team will be awarded the
       ranking points one place below the lowest place climber in that category for a
       second climber.

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8. Points awarded in the Series Ranking and Revolution
Team Cup Competition

              Place Points Place Points Place Points
                1    100    11    31     21    10
                2    80     12    28     22     9
                3    65     13    26     23     8
                4    55     14    24     24     7
                5    51     15    22     25     6
                6    47     16    20     26     5
                7    43     17    18     27     4
                8    40     18    16     28     3
                9    37     19    14     29     2
               10    34     20    12    30 +    1

                                                       page: 7/7

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