Are Too You a by wuzhenguang


                      SEt fOR




              You a

Rel ax on you R way v i a H e l s i n k i
    a peaceful and relaxing visit to the unique via spa, in the non-schengen terminal
    at Helsinki airport, is the highlight of your journey. actually, you might wish you
         could wait a bit longer for your next flight. you are welcome to enjoy.

     4             viaglobe
     .                                                                       •           •
                   Editorial: Destination: World’s Best Country In Figures Green Power My Moment in                                                                     •
     .                       •                               •                                   •
                   Finland Greetings From Finland One Body: Product Info Finland Rules America’s Top Tourist                                                                                                •
                                  •                     •            •
                   Attractions Left Is All Right Arrivals Kvarken Archipelago Got Time? Toufh Typung               •                                                                                        •                                            •
                                            •                       •                        •
                   Environmental Fact Air Giant Is Born Orthodox Spirit Around Helsinki Terrific Tar                                                                                                        •                                       •
    13             Best at Second Best


    14             COVER: Are You a Genius, Too? .......................................................
                   What makes a superbrain tick?

    22             Dean of the Track
                   Motorbike champ Jarno Saarinen’s career was cut tragically short. But his name lives on.

    26             Architects of the Air
                   The best terminals are the ones you barely notice.

    28             Backdrop to the Stars
                   Is that Moscow, Leningrad? No, it’s Helsinki, just acting.

   34                       Exit in a Blaze of Glory
                   A rush of vibrant colour accompanies Lapland’s transition to winter.

                            Milestone Moments: Mission to Mogadishu ...........
                   They warned him not to go there. So MP Pekka Haavisto phoned up and asked.

   40              viaservice
    .                            •                           •           •           •
                   Shopping Restaurants and Cafés Hotels Lounges Spa VIP Services ATMs       •                                                                                                 •
    .              •              •                         •
                     Car Hire Conference Services Currency Exchange and Banks Hair Salon                                         •
    .              •                                    •                        •
                     Internet and Work Facilities Lost and Found Medical Services and Pharmacy
                   •                                •                    •
                      Airport Service Center Storage Services Tax Free Refunds Taxi Operators        •
                   •                            •                   •                        •
                      Tourist Information Travel Agencies Travel Insurance What’s in Your Bag, Sissy Sport?
    52             • Brand Pick: Longchamp

VIA HELSINKI The Finavia magazine for Helsinki Airport travellers 3/2010, ISSN 1798-2782, date of publication                                                                                                                                                SEt fOR

7.10.2010. Published by Finavia, PL 50, 01531 Vantaa, tel. 020 708 2002 Editor-In-Chief, Irmeli Paavola, Finavia
             Managing Editor, Tiia Soininen, Mediafocus Oy Editorial, Mediafocus Oy,
             Art Director, Lasse Rantanen Graphic Design, Jaska Poikonen English Editor, Joe White Translations,                                                                                                                         BLAZE

             AAC Global Advertising Sales, Printed by Libris Oy Paper, Galerie Art Silk
             Circulation, 50 000                                                                                                                                                                                                    JARNO
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    OF THE


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 You a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      V I A HELSINKI

                                                                                                                                                 For more information, please visit

                                                                                                     81118_HA_Lehtiilmo_210x297_171109c.indd 1                                                                  11/17/09 4:23 PM
viaglobe                                                                               “The purpose of life is a life

                                       EDITORIAL                 Irmeli Paavola

                       Destination: World’s Best Country
             Walt Disney was, perhaps, a genius. After all, he     cottage in the wilderness at weekends, to bathe in the
             fathered Mickey Mouse, produced the first-ever        sauna. According to the travel guides.
             full-length animated film and created Disneyland,         Perhaps travel guides only caricature the truth.
             Happiest Place On Earth®. Disneyland, he said,        True, we’re not known for our small talk but we
             would never be completed as long as imagination       do discuss issues and we can communicate, in a
             remained.                                             surprising number of languages.
                 Disney was a man whose name became a brand.           The Newsweek survey shows that determined –
             Since his time we have been creating brands and       sometimes seemingly endless – work is worthwhile.
             letting imagination flourish. A few years ago Finland Literacy became obligatory in principle in the
             set up a panel to devise a                            seventeenth century; for decades, nine years of basic
             country brand, headed by                                            education have been compulsory; and
             Jorma Ollila, Chairman of the
                                                Brands are like                  Finnish women became the first in the
             Board of Directors of Nokia
                                                Disneyland –                     world to gain the unrestricted right to
             and Shell, and consisting of       they are never                   vote and stand for election, in 1907.
             the cream of Finnish business      complete. They                   That’s real brand work!
             and culture. Its purpose           are recreated
             was to improve Finland’s           with every                       The world’s best country is a result
             competitiveness.                   encounter.                       of long-term effort, but it is reassessed
                 Such groups may                                                 every day, in every single encounter.
             contribute to a brand                                               Helsinki Airport plays an important
             but cannot create one. A bit like                      role in shaping the Finland brand. We can make
             Disneyland, brands are never                           our visitors feel good, if only by welcoming
             complete. The work never ends                           them warmly. Hello, ciao, holá, willkommen,
             because brands are recreated every                              konnichiwa...
             day.                                                                 And we can encourage air travellers to
                                                                               continue on to different parts of Finland:
             In August, Newsweek                                                to Lapland, perhaps, where nature
             magazine compared living                                             spreads her colours of autumn; or to
             conditions in 100 countries.                                          Helsinki, the set for many a major
             The survey was based on                                               Hollywood production, starring
             education and healthcare                                             the likes of Diane Keaton, Warren
             services, overall quality of life,                                  Beatty and Michael Caine. This issue
             economic dynamism and                                                of Via Helsinki takes readers to these
             political environment. Finland                                        places. And into the minds of some of
             emerged as the best country in                                        Disney’s fellow geniuses.
             the world to live in. Perhaps Finns                                  Here in the best country in the world
             were not alone in rubbing their                                   we proudly claim that our magazine paints
             eyes in astonishment – the world’s                                an accurate picture of Finland. Just go
             best country, say the travel guides,                               and see for yourself!
             has more trees than people. In                                         Welcome to Finland, verifiably the
             Finland even the most devoted                                        best country in the world!
             urbanites retreat to a quiet

 of purpose.”
				– 	 A m e r i cA n 	chess 	 plAyer	r obert 	byrne

       China has a population of                 1,300                               MY MOMENT                          in Finland
       million people, the EU 501 million and the US 310 million.
       There are 590 million facebook users in the world.                            “I visited Siluetti Spa and
                                                                                     enjoyed the hot stone treat-
                                                                                     ment very much. I think
                                                                                     the stones were made of
                                   We blink 10–15 times a minute. When we            marble. They just let the
                                                                                     stones rest on the body,
                                          are lying we blink less frequently while   and it was very relaxing
                                  telling the lie, but immediately after, we blink   because you could lis-
                                                                                     ten to music at the same time.”
                                 up to eight times more frequently than normal.
                                                                                     Antonio Fuente del Campo
                                                                                     Plastic surgeon, Mexico

                                                                Land has been
                            In                                   cultivated for

                                                                                     “I think Suomenlinna in Hel-
                                                                 10,000 years.       sinki is a fascinating island
                                                                                     with all the buildings and
                                                                                     history. It was interesting
                                                                                     to hear how they managed
                                                                                     to build it and especially
                                                                                     about its war history. How-
                                                                                     ever, we managed to miss
       In Finnish                         The brain of a sperm whale weighs          the boat from the island, so it’s best
       Lapland, the pop-                                   kilograms. The            to check the schedule in advance.”

       ulation density is                                  human brain               Sam Ashcroft
                                                                                     Ski technician, New Zealand
              inhabitants                                  weighs about 1.3
              per square                                   kilos.
                                                                                     “I visited Kahvila Suomi in
              kilometre,                                                             Helsinki. It is famous from a

       in Tokyo it is                                                                Japanese movie filmed in Fin-
                                                                                     land. The food was very tasty;

       11,526                .
                                                                                     we had some steak and fish.
                                                                                     Finnish people are very kind.
                                                                                     They helped us when we lost
                                                                                     our way looking for the café.”

                                                                                     Yuko Okoshi
                                                                                     Student, Japan

                                                                                     Greetings from Finland
                                                                                     SurPrISE your frIENDS with a live postcard!
                                                                                     The Tourist Information office in the centre of
          Green Power                                                                Helsinki offers a service for visitors to send a video
                                                                                     greeting via e-mail or on the Internet, free of
          German airline Lufthansa and French-                                       charge. The office address is Pohjoisesplanadi 19.
          Dutch KLM are planning to use biofuel                            
          in commercial flights from next year.
          The US Continental Airlines has already
          tested biofuel on its flights.
             Lufthansa hopes to save money by
          mixing biofuel into aviation kerosene. A
          spur for the shift to biofuel is the inclu-
          sion of aviation in the EU emissions
          trading scheme from 2012. Lufthansa
          estimates that emissions trading will
          cost it 150–350 million euros more an-

                                                                                                                    V I A HELSINKI   5
viaglobe            “The secret of success in life is for a man to be
                       	    	        	          	          – 	e Ar l	 o f	 b eAc o n s f i e l d

  19 kg of
                                One Body:
  brain and
                                Product Info
                                We come in all shapes and sizes; tall, tiny, stocky, slim, and some of us
  other                         even have so-called normal build. Body compositions vary, and an av-
                                erage healthy young man may be more than 30% muscle. The amount
  organs                        of fatty tissue in men is typically 20%. The average woman has slightly
                                less muscle and more fat. Bones make up 20% of our body weight; the re-
                                maining 30% is internal organs. About 70% of the human body is water.

                                An AveRAGe
                                HeAlTHy yOunG mAn
                                weIGHInG 70 KG HAS

                                              14 kg of bones

                                     14 kg of fat

                                          23 kg of muscle

                       Finland                                  Welcome to paradise. The American
                                                                weekly magazine Newsweek ranked Finland
                                                                the best country in the world in a recent

                                                                survey. It said Finland provides the very best
                                                                opportunity to live a healthy, safe, reason-
                                                                ably prosperous, and upwardly mobile life.
                                                                    Experts consulted for the survey classi-
                                                                fied countries on five criteria – education,
                                                                health care, quality of life, economic dyna-
                                                                mism and political environment. Finland’s
                                                                education was deemed the best in the world.
                                                                Finland ranked fourth in quality of life,
                                                                judged by inequality, homicide and unem-
                                                                ployment rates. The political environment
                                                                was ranked fifth best. In economic dyna-
                                                                mism Finland came eighth and seventeenth
                                                                in health care.

ready for his opportunity when it comes.” 	                                            	          																									   	   	          			

                                                                                      ARRIVALS                         Here And at the Other End.
   America’s Top Tourist Attractions
                                                                                      l HELSINKI AIRPORT: Bus tickets from the tourist
                                                                                      info point . The Helsinki Airport tourist information point is
                                                                                      in arrivals hall 2A in terminal 2. The info point is staffed every
                                                                                      day from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. You can buy single-charge cards for
   1. Times Square, New York.                                                         public transport, including 1–7-day tickets, 2-hour tickets and
   2. Las Vegas.                                                                      Suomenlinna ferry tickets (valid for 12 hours). The selection in-
   3. National Mall and Memorial Parks, Washington.                                   cludes Helsinki tickets and Helsinki Metropolitan Area regional
   4. Faneuil Hall marketplace, Boston.                                               tickets. l TOKIO NARITA: Free Wireless LAN Area.
   5. Walt Disney World, Orlando.                                                     Wi-Fi desks for free wireless LAN access will be installed on the
   6. Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco.
                                                                                      airside of Terminal 1. Customers with their own wireless LAN
                                                                                      compatible laptop computers will be able to read their e-mails
   7. Disneyland, Anaheim.
                                                                                      and browse the Internet without having to subscribe to a service
   8. Fisherman’s Wharf, San Francisco.
                                                                                      provider. l STOCKHOLm-
   9. Hollywood Walk of Fame, Los Angeles.
                                                                                      ARLANDA: mobile version of There is now a
   10. Great Smoky Mountains National Park, North Carolina and Tennessee.
                                                                                      version of adapted for mobile devices, which provides
   Source: Forbes                                                                     information about departures and arrivals as well as a selec-
                                                                                      tion of special offers. The web address for Stockholm-Arlanda’s
                                                                                      mobile version of is: l ATHENS:
                                                                                      Ecomobility. “Ecomobility, Ecological Automotion.” This very
                                                                                      special environmental awareness exhibition of artworks created
                                                                                      by pupils from all over Greece is hosted at the Environmental
                                                                                      Information Centre of Athens International Airport. All works
                                                                                      were created during the 2009–2010 school year to support pu-
                                                                                      pils’ projects for the “ECOMOBILITY, Ecological Automation,
                                                                                      Contribution to the Environment” environmental campaign.
                                                                                      The exhibition is open 24 hours a day, open to all passengers
                                                                                      and airport visitors. l FRANKFuRT: Hooters at airport.
                                                                                      Hooters American Restaurant and Sportsbar has opened its
                                                                                      first airport location at Frankfurt Airport. Guests can enjoy this
                                                                                      international, multicultural gastronomy outlet at the Airport
                                                                                      City Mall Frankfurt, in Terminal 1 on Level 0 (Area C) above
                                                                                      the Regional Train Station. Hooters Frankfurt Airport features
                                                                                      American finger foods. A shop at the entrance to the restaurant
                                                                                      offers branded souvenirs.

     THE bEST CouNTrIES IN THE                         Left Is All Right
     WorLD (NEWSWEEK):
                                                       SLIGHTLy MorE THAN ten per cent of
     1.     Finland                                    people are estimated to be left-handed.
     2.     Switzerland
                                                       The left side of the body is governed by
     3.     Sweden
     4.     Australia                                  the right hemisphere of the brain, which
     5.     luxembourg                                 contains the areas associated with creativity
     6.     norway                                     and emotions, and left-handed people
     7.     Canada                                     are often believed to be more creative
     8.     netherlands
     9.     Japan                                      than right-handed, and in many sports,
     10.    Denmark                                    left-handedness is a clear advantage. Left-
     ….                                                handers have made their mark in many
     97.    Zambia                                     other fields, too. Famous lefties include
     98.    Cameroon
                                                       Barack Obama, Bill Gates, Valentino
     99.    nigeria
     100.   Burkina Faso                               Rossi, Paul McCartney, Bruce Willis, and

                                                                                                                                      V I A HELSINKI   7
                                                      “One’s destination is never a place, but a
                                                                	          	           – 	A m e r i cA n 	 w r i t e r	 h e n ry	 m i l l e r

  THe wORlD HeRITAGe:                                                                       TEN THouSAND yEArS ago an ice sheet up to
                                                                                            three kilometres thick covered Finland and de-

                                                                                            pressed the land surface. The marks left on the
                                                                                            landscape by the Ice Age are slowly subsiding,
                                                                                            and the depressed land is rising by eight milli-
                                                                                            metres a year, with islands resurfacing in the sea.

  Archipelago                                                                                  The Kvarken Archipelago, which lies off-
                                                                                            shore from the town of Vaasa in the Gulf of
                                                                                            Bothnia between Finland and Sweden, is be-
                                                                                            ing re-formed by the rising land. New islands

                             1 HOuR                                 2 HOuRS                              5 HOuRS

                             Ph oto exh i b it io n . Many          Children love the playroom.          Watch the runway from a cosy spa.
                             things in our everyday lives           Two hours waiting to board           Allow yourself a moment of relax-

                             simply flash before our eyes           a flight can seem like eterni-       ation and luxury between flights at
                             without us noticing. Amer-             ty for a small child, but in a       Helsinki Airport. The mineral water
                             ican photographer Carolyn              playroom the time will just fly      pool, four saunas and other facilities
                             Russo has the ability to stop          by. At Helsinki Airport, chil-       at Via Spa help you forget the hus-
                             and look around, to make time          dren can draw, play with toys        tle and bustle of everyday life. One
                             stand still. Russo is fascinated       or watch videos in the play-         sauna even looks out over the taxi-
              THRee wAyS     by airport control towers be-          rooms, which also boast mi-          way. The spa offers a wide selection
              TO PASS THe    cause they represent the first         crowaves for heating meals,          of treatments, such as the relaxing
                             impression travellers get of a         and baby-changing facilities.        Total Soft Pack Experience, to suit
              TIme wHIle     town. She says modern control          Most toilet facilities at the air-   every schedule.
              yOu wAIT FOR   tower architecture embodies            port also have separate baby-        GATES 36–37
              yOuR FlIGHT.   both beauty and power.                 changing rooms.
                             ARRIVALS FLOOR (2A)                    GATES 16, 20 and 38

new way of seeing things.”                               	

                                                                                                 envIROnmenTAl FACT
   and rocks are emerging and bays are drying up or
   becoming isolated ponds. The sea was about 250
   metres deep when the ice sheet was melting but
                                                             vIA HelSInKI

                                                             Flying Clean,
   today the terrain reaches 20 metres above sea lev-
   el at its highest points. The landscape still shows
   traces of glacial movements.
       The Kvarken Archipelago is included on the
   UNESCO World Heritage List together with the
   High Coast of Sweden 150 kilometres to the west.
                                                             Green and Safe
                                                             Helsinki Airport has become a major transit airport for flights
                                                             between europe and Asia. It has good airspace and run-
                                                             way capacity but is still small enough to be environmen-
                                                             tally efficient and offer passengers an effortless experience.
                                                             winter snow and ice clearance also ensures regular opera-
                                                             tion of both airport and traffic in these northern conditions.

                                                                The peak capacity of the airport’s        Mechanical methods, sweeping and
                                                             three runways is 80 operations per        ploughing, are the main skid-prevention
                                                             hour.                                     methods used on runways.

       The   World   Heritage    Programme     of               Efficient airspace use means in-          De-icing agents are used to remove
       UNESCO, the United Nations Education-                 coming aircraft rarely have to wait       snow and ice from runways only when
       al, Scientific and Cultural Organisation,             to land.                                  absolutely necessary.
       conserves sites of outstanding cultural
       and natural value.                                       Green landings have been allowed          Even then the agent is a formiate-
                                                             for almost a decade.                      based product which is the least pol-
       The World Heritage List currently in-                                                           luting of those on the market.
       cludes 890 sites in 141 countries. Italy                 Nowadays about 60% of flights
       boasts the highest number, with 44                    utilise this method, a high percentage       The most important take-off run-
       cultural and natural World Heritage                   by international standards.               way (rwy 3) is underlaid by large lay-
       Sites. Finland has seven; the fortress of                                                       ers of rock waste which help to purify
       Suomenlinna, Old Rauma, Petäjävesi Old                   Green landings reduce carbon           runoff waters.
       Church, the Verla groundwood and board                dioxide emissions by about 320 kg
       mill, the Bronze Age burial site at Sam-              per flight, which cuts carbon dioxide        Runoff water from the runways stays
       mallahdenmäki, the Struve geodetic arc                emissions by about 13,000 tonnes          here for three months, during which time
       and the Kvarken Archipelago.                          a year.                                   any oxygen-consuming materials dis-
                                                                                                       perse.                          Noise around the airport is also
                                                             reduced by green landings.                   De-icing of aircraft wings and tails is
                                                                                                       an important safety measure.
                                                                Since 1990 the number of people
                                                             living within the aircraft noise area        A mixture of propylene glycol and
                                                             (Lden>55 dB) has fallen to around         hot water is used for de-icing.
                                                             a tenth of its previous level and now

   Toufh typung                                              amounts to about 12,000 inhabitants.         This chemical, which is also used in
                                                                                                       cosmetics, is non-toxic but it consumes
                                                                Airspace efficiency facilitates        oxygen in natural waters as it degrades.
   ArGH! Typign has been deliberately made
                                                             green take-offs to optimum cruis-
      difficukt. The current keyboard layout
                                                             ing height without altitude restric-         De-icing fluids are collected from
       in computers and typewriters is called
                                                             tions, which is energy efficient.         treatment points by six suction sweep-
   QWERTY, developed when the old mechanical
                                                                                                       er vehicles and transported to a waste-
   typewriters could not cope with the fastest
                                                                Winter snow and ice clearing at        water treatment plant.
   typists and jammed. In QWERTY,
                                                             Helsinki Airport is first class by glo-
   the most common letters in English,
                                                             bal standards.                               Diluted liquids are pumped via the
   such as a, s, d, and e have been
                                                                                                       sewage system to a wastewater treat-
   placed to make their use for a right-
                                                                Cleaning a runway of snow takes        ment plant.
            handed typist as slow as
                                                             only 10–12 minutes with 15 machines.
                                                                                                          The first remote de-icing point was
                                                                                                       introduced in 2008 and another will fol-
                                                                                                       low in 2011.

                                                                                                                                V I A HELSINKI   9
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Yo r
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               To r
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Bos                     ont
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    ton                     o8
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          8:3                    :40

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      k j av
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   ik 3
                                                    ADvENTuRE Stockholm, Sweden
 Air Giant Is Born
                                                    Pippi Longstocking is the strongest girl on earth – she can lift
 uNITED AIrLINES and Continental Airlines           a horse. Endlessly astonishing her neighbours, Pippi lives alone
 of the USA will merge, creating the world’s        in a big house with her horse and monkey while her father sails
                                                    the world.
 largest airline. The companies have a total            Pippi is one of the many refreshingly anarchistic characters
 of 88,000 employees and 700 aircraft. Their        created by author Astrid Lindgren that appeal to children and
 combined net sales in 2009 were nearly 22          adults alike. Visitors can meet these crazy
                                                    individuals at the Junibacken fantasy hou-
 billion euros. The deal is worth 2.4 billion
                                                    se on Djurgården Island near the centre
 euros and is expected to be finalised by the       of Stockholm.
 end of this year, after clearance from antitrust
 authorities. The new airline will be called
 United Airlines.

 Orthodox Spirit
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                3 :1 0
                                                    FOOTBALL Manchester, UK                                                                                                                                                                                  D u b li n
 THE bIGGEST Eastern Orthodox church in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      r 3:0
 Western Europe stands in the centre of Helsinki.                                                                                                                                                                                                                          heste
                                                    Manchester is every football enthusiast’s dream city.                                                                                                                                                        Manc
 Inaugurated in 1868, the Uspenski Cathedral is     Coached by Sir Alex ferguson, Manchester united
 dedicated to the Dormition of the Theotokos        fC, which plays its home matches at the old Traf-
 (Mary, Mother of Jesus).                           ford stadium, has long been one of the best football
                                                    teams in the world. Now many predict that Manches-
    The exterior of the redbrick building follows   ter City, which has invested record sums in player                                                                                                                                                                                      3:10
 the old Slavic tradition, while the interior       acquisitions, will overtake Manchester united as the                                                                                                                                                                    Lon
 expresses the Byzantine origins of the Orthodox    number one team in town and
                                                                                                                                                                                               da 6
                                                    even the Premier League. Who
                                                                                                                                                                                    D   elga
                                                    will rule supreme on the football                                                                                      P   onta
    The Orthodox Church has 220 million             pitch?                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      :05
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         is 3
 members worldwide, with most of its churches                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Par
 in Russia, the Balkans and Middle East. Eastern

 influence is evident in the Uspenski Cathedral.
 The Finnish Orthodox Church is Finland’s
 second largest religious community, with 60,000                                                                                                                                                                                                                                :40
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      it   z3
 members, representing 1.1 per cent of the                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Bi   arr
 population. Some 80 per cent of Finns belong to                                                                                                                                                                                                       0


 the Evangelical Lutheran Church.                                                                                                                                                                                                   Ma

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          o rc
                                                                                                                                             TRAFFIC Amsterdam, The Netherlands




                                                                                                                                                             There is something special about the hustle and

                                                                                                                                                             bustle of Amsterdam – they love bikes. Though
                                                                                                                                                             laced with canals, the city teems with bikes and the
                                                                                                                                                             tinging of bells. In fact, with its almost 500,000
                                                                                                                                  4:4                        cycles, Amsterdam is one of the most bike-friendly
                                                                                                                            b on                                                                                        5
                                                                                                                       Lis                                   cities in the world. Elsewhere, people may cycle       4:2
                                                                                                                                                             mainly to keep fit but for Amsterdamers, the two-
                                                                                5                                                                            wheeler is an integral
                                                                          5:4                                                                                part of life. They ride
                                                               ch   al
                                                           Fun                                                                                               them to work, run er-
                                                                                                                                                             rands and go just
                                                                                                                                  5                        5
                                                                                                                            o 4:4                     4 : 3 about anywhere on the
                                                                                                                       Fa r                        ra
                                                                                                                                               nte           trusty velocipede.


    10     V I A HELSINKI
                                                                    ri   fe
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     DECOR Tornio, Finland                                                                                                  5                      5
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    9:2                 ul
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        To k                   Seo
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Tornio in finland and Haparanda in Sweden form an                                                                9   :35
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      international twin city, where the border between                                                      go                      :45
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Na                 k    a9
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      the two countries encourages interaction. This uni-                                                              Osa
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      que geography has turned Tornio and Haparanda
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      into a lively urban centre.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         IKEA HaparandaTornio is the world’s northern-                                                                                     g 9:
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               g    Ko n
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      most IKEA department store, located in Sweden,                                                                       Hon             :40
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      ng 7
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      between the two cities, right against the finnish                                                                          Beiji 8:55
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      border. originating in Sweden, IKEA runs hundreds                                                                              ghai
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      of department stores around the world, all of which
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      offer the same product selection. Its products are                                                                               kok 9
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      densely packed and ready
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      to assemble to ensure easy
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    k XX
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             vo d s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      transportation andaminimal
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      storage space. e t


         Bergen 1:55                                                                                                                                                    HELSINKI
                                                                                                                                                                               St. Petersburg
                                                                            Osl o 1:30                                                                                         0:55
                                                                                                                                                 o lm 0 :5
                                                                                                                                      S to c k h                                                                                               Mos
                                                                                                                                             1:20                                                                                                           cow
                                                                                                                                                                                         Tallinn 0:35

                                                                                                                                      ping                                                                                                                        1:50
                                                                                                          1:25           N   orrk
                                                                                                                                  ö                                                                                                                                                                                FOOD Seoul, South Korea
                                                                                  G       othen                                                   1:3
                                                                                                                                                      0                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          D e lh i 6 :4
                                                                                                                                            by                                                                                                                                                                     Every country has dishes that foreigners – and                                                      0
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   even some of its own citizens – find a bit too ex-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   otic. Sannakij is a traditional Korean dish, of live
                                                                 2:   20                             ag   en                                                                                                                                                                                                       nakij octopuses (octopus minor) cut into small
                                                                                                                                                                          Ri ga 0: 55

                                                            lund                                 enh
                                                      Bil                                  Cop                                                                                                                                                                                                                     pieces and served immediately. Gourmets must
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   b u r gt a r i n -
                                                                                                                                                                                        Vilnus 1:15

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   take utmost care of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   the suction cups on
                                                                                      5                                                                                                                                                                                                                            the tentacles, which

                                                                       u   rg                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      might stick to the

                                                                                                                                                               w 1:45


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   throat and suffocate

                                                                                                                                                           Wa rs a

                        m                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Dub
                    rda                     5
                ste                     2:2                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                ai 5
            Am :40                   rf
                                l do
              ls 2          sse
          sse            Dü

                                                                                                                                                    w 1 :4 5







                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   TECHNOLOgY Stuttgart, Germany


                                                                                                                na 2


                                                                                                                                            e s t 2 :2

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   In 1885 and 1886, Wilhelm Maybach and Gottlieb Daim-

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   ler built the world’s first motorcycle and four-wheeled


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   car in Stuttgart. The city soon grew into
                                                                                                       a 2:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   a global automotive centre and has since


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   served as a trailblazer in the field. Stutt-

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   gart’s vehicle builders include Mercedes-

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Bu ch ar es t 2:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   benz, Porsche and Maybach.


                                                                    Ve n

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Mercedes-Benz Museum,




                                                                                                                                  n ik 3 :3 0


                                                                                                                               D u b ro v
                                                                  e 3:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Is ta n b u l
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           3: 15
                                                                                                                                                                                                        Athe ns 3:40

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Sa m os 3: 50

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               ca 4:
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       He ra kli on 3:5

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Ko s 3: 50


                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Cha nia 3:50

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     os 4:
                                                                                           M a lt a

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 R h o d es 4


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       V I A HELSINKI

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     :0 0
viaglobe                                                                             “Whatever is begun in anger


 Try something new or take a                                                                                 CREAm
 unique taste experience as a                                                                                According to an old Finnish saying,
 souvenir. Tar syrup is ideal for                                                                            if tar, spirit and sauna don’t help, the
 both main courses and desserts                                                                              illness is fatal. Today, tar and sauna
 and goes with both savoury and                                                                              still go well together. This pleasantly
 sweet dishes: ice cream, stir fries,       Tar is a wondrous substance with many uses. In the               fragrant cream cleanses, rejuvenates
 marinades… try some and decide             19th century, tar was Finland’s main export, great-              and balances the skin. It is also relaxing,
 for yourself!                              ly in demand to protect the wooden ships sailing                 helping to alleviate muscle tension.
 Tar syrup                                  the world’s seas. Tar meant work and income, and                 Tar & Honey sauna cream
 Stockmann (GATE 26)                        was also a remedy for a variety of ailments. It was              Stockmann (GATE 26)
                                            also used for tarring and feathering wrongdoers.

                                            Tar is a natural product usually produced from
                                            pine. Today it is used in many products for its
                                                                                                                             The flame from a
                                            unique flavour and aroma.                                                        tar candle spreads a
                                                                                                                             warm, dark fragrance
                                                                                                                             throughout the room
                                                                                                                             and conjures a mystic
       Tar has a deep foresty fragrance
  and tar soap leaves your skin feeling
                                                                        Although tar is no longer used as medicine,
   clean and fresh. Tar has traditionally
                                                                        tar-flavoured salmiakki and liquorice lozenges are
  been used for skin care, and tar soap
                                                                        good for a sore throat. The unique taste also
        has deep-cleansing properties.
                                                                        freshens the breath.
                               Tar soap
                   Stockmann (GATE 26)                                  Tervasalmiakki and tervalakritsipastillit
                                                                        Stockmann (GATE 26),
                                                                        Finnair Shop Tax Free (GATE 27)

     12   V I A HELSINKI
ends in shame.”
  	– 	b e n jAmin 	f rA nklin	

                                      COLUMN               by Jukka Relander

                                     Best at Second Best
                                                                                                                                 Jukka Relander is a Finnish
                                                                                                                                 historian, columnist, essayist,
                                                                                                                                 debater and deputy member of
   Newsweek magazine recently ranked the best                     against the not-exactly-too-superpowerish Denmark.             parliament.
   countries in the word. With education weighing more            The Danes had had a sausage or two too much, and as
   than the other factors – health, quality of life and political God is Swedish, our joint armies could attack over the
   environment – Finland came top – the best country in           unexpectedly frozen narrow strait between what are
   the world.                                                     now Sweden and Denmark. Finns fought bravely to keep
       To Finns this was terrible news. Hadn’t Newsweek           Skåne Swedish.
   heard of our domestic violence, economic inequality,               Sport has provided a fruitful arena for our national
   high income tax, public health care failures, not to           self-image of secondness. A while ago Finland
   mention the wind, cold, wet and dark, that only a              came close to qualifying for the European football
   Helsinki winter can deal out...? Must be a mistake!            championships, until the 92nd minute when we scored
       As soon as this distressing claim emerged, an avid         a decisive own goal off three Finnish players. We are
   Finnish tabloid reader confirmed our disbelief. With his       still over-represented on the lists of best players who
   calculator he proved not only that we are best in maths,       have never represented their country in an international
   but that Newsweek had made an                                                            tournament.
   error. We should really have come            Sport has provided a                           We always came fourth in
   second, after Switzerland. Newsweek’s fruitful arena for our                             ice hockey until our miracle at
   editors instantly raised our education       national self-image                         the Calgary winter Olympics
   score from 100 to 102 per cent. No           of secondness.                              in 1988. In the final we beat the
   question about it. Finland is the best.                                                  mighty Soviet Union to take the
   Et punctum.                                                    silver. But the Soviets had already secured their gold and
       We have to cope with that. It is not easy. Nobody really   anyway had bit of a hangover in this last, meaningless
   wants Finland to be the best. It is at odds with our self-     game.
   image. We belonged to Sweden for six hundred years.                Since 1988 we have repeated this miracle in the
   After a century of later Russian domination we gained          World Cup, two Winter Olympics and six world
   independence only to find Swedish was still the official       championships. Silver, silver, ever silver... with one
   language, not Finnish.                                         notable exception. In 1995 Finland was suffering the
       This was soon reversed but we still tend to think we       worst depression of any industrial country since WW II.
   are somehow a national minority of 95 % in our own             All was in ruins, until Swedish ice hockey coach, Curt
   country, a sort of a slightly and invisibly oppressed          Lindström, led his Finnish gladiators to world victory in
   second best after our Swedish speakers, who are more           Stockholm, proving that in theory, we, too, can win and
   gregarious, live longer and have better table manners.         that God is Swedish even in coaching.
   And who sing first and drink afterwards.                           A metaphysical pinnacle of secondness occurred in
       Then there are the wars, of course. None of them has       the 1980 winter Olympics, when Juha Mieto, a national
   been exactly victorious for us. In fact, during WW II          symbol, lost to Sweden’s Thomas Wassberg in the 15
   Finland managed to oppose both the allied and the axis         km by a hundredth of a second, the closest victory ever
   powers within a mere 3 years – facing Russia, Britain,         in Olympic cross-country skiing. Needless to say he shot
   France, Germany, Argentina, Australia and the Virgin           straight into our Pantheon of heroes.
   Islands, to name a few. Rather bravely, and stubbornly, in         We are used to it, since we are the best at being
   this war, too, Finland came second.                            second, right after the true winners, whoever they are.
       This was nothing new. Indeed, the last time we were        And it does not matter whether we are second best or
   on the winning side of a war was in 1658 – a Swedish war       47th. As long as the Swedes are 48th.

                                                                                                                                V I A HELSINKI    13

Tell uS muCH ABOuT

                           ad narcissist. Figueres, Spain, 1909.   that the two were one and the same.
                            The fierce white light and scorch-        September 6th, 1953, Port Lligat, Spain. “Every morning
                            ing sun of the afternoon in the        upon awakening I experience a supreme pleasure; that of
                            cemetery force five year-old Sal-      being Salvador Dalí, and I ask myself, wonderstruck, what
                            vador to keep wiping tears from        prodigious thing will he do today, this Salvador Dalí. And
                            his eyes. His mother Felipa and        every morning it is more and more difficult for me to un-
father Salvador gaze solemnly at the headstone. The name           derstand how others can even live not being Gala or Salva-
Salvador, that of a third Salvador in the family, the first-born   dor Dalí.”
who died at the age of 2, is engraved on the stone: “This is          Dalí describes his appearances around the world. In Paris
the grave of your big brother. You, Salvador, are his incar-       to give a lecture, he arrived in a white Rolls Royce filled with
nation,” intone the parents. “Your name means ‘Saviour’.”          a thousand cauliflowers. In Rome, he emerged from a cu-
   What was Salvador Dalí supposed to save? Half a centu-          bical egg, symbolising his rebirth. In Venice, Gala and Dalí
ry later, on May 9th 1957, 53 year old Dalí wrote in his di-       descended the stairs at Beistegui’s Palazzo Labia as nine-
ary: “As my name – Salvador – indicates, I was destined for        metre tall giants on stilts to the piazza and danced before a
nothing less than the rescue of modern painting from lazi-         cheering crowd. “I am like Don Juan; wherever I go, there
ness and chaos.”                                                   is always scandal…” Dalí said, mirthfully.
   He considered his success to be inevitable, and that he            His goal was always the same: “It is difficult to hold the
possessed two magnificent gifts. First, he was born Spanish        world’s interest for more than half an hour at a time. I my-
and secondly his name was Gala Salvador Dalí. By adding            self have done so successfully every day for the past twenty
his wife’s name, Gala, to his own, Dalí wanted to express          years. My motto has always been, ‘Let them speak of Dalí,

“And if in our age of quasi-dwarfs
 the colossal scandal of being
 a genius permits us not to be stoned
 like dogs or to starve to death,
 it will only be by the grace of god.”
                        – Salvador Dalí

                         V I A HELSINKI    2
                                                                                 edge of perspective. If it were so accompanied,
                                                                                 you lack the methods of geometrical demon-
lABOuReD nIGHT AnD DAy, THAT                                                     stration and the method of calculation of the
GENIuS WAS NoT AN INNATE GIfT                                                    forces and power of the muscles. Perhaps you
AnD SuCCeSS COulD Only COme                                                      lack the patience so that you will not be dili-
THROuGH HARD wORK.                                                               gent. Whether all these qualities were found
                                                                                 in me or not, the hundred and twenty books
even if they only speak well of him’.”                            composed by me will supply the verdict, yes or no. In these
   He was determined to create a success story of himself.        pursuits I have been hindered by neither avarice nor by neg-
“To conquer, one needs a uniform. Throughout my life, I           ligence but only by lack of time. Farewell.”
have rarely deigned to wear civilian clothes. I always wear          It was clear to da Vinci, who laboured night and day,
the uniform of Dalí.”                                             that genius was not an innate gift and success could on-
   He was also known to poke fun at his peers: “The envy          ly come through hard work: “Thou O God dost sell us all
of other painters has always been the measure of my suc-          good things at the price of labour,” he agonised. Nor did
cess,” boasted Dalí. At the age of 27 he made two fi lms in       he believe in good luck. “Good fortune is valueless to him
Paris in collaboration with Luis Buñuel that will go down         who knows not toil. [...] There is no perfect gift without
in history. “Since then, Buñuel has worked alone and direct-      great suffering.”
ed other films, thereby rendering me the inestimable service         Boston, USA, 1908. The air is thick with cigar smoke, the
of revealing to the world who was responsible for the gen-        smell mingling with the fragrance of Yemenite coffee. Dark
ius of Le Chien Andalou and L’Age d’Or” and who account-          curly hair and soulful eyes are discernible amid the smoke.
ed for their primitiveness.                                       The 25-year-old Lebanese poet Kahlil Gibran is slumped
   Reading the Diary of a Genius, it’s not always clear if Dalí   over his desk. He has worked since early morning till late
was deliberately parodying himself to gain attention or if        without stopping to eat, only smoking his cigars and drink-
he had become a narcissistic madman lacking all sense of          ing oriental coffee.
perspective.                                                         By 36, Gibran’s health was already ruined. Doctors for-
   But not all geniuses are like Dalí. Lebanese artist Kahl-      bade him from working more than four or five hours at
il Gibran spent his childhood as a poor immigrant in the          a stretch, occasionally ordering him complete rest in the
United States and dedicated himself to his work. Leonardo         countryside. Gibran himself was deeply frustrated by the
da Vinci was born out of wedlock, and thus could not fol-         inadequacy of his body: “My soul is like a violin with bro-
low his father into law. He, too, was indifferent to fame and     ken strings. . . There is nothing more difficult than a strong
focused on his work.                                              spirit in a weak body.” He felt his best works were yet to be
                                                                  written, and so strove all the harder.
Dedication to work. Pavia, Italy, 1510. It is nearly two in the      Boston, March 1929, a letter to artist friend Mikhail
morning, the room is eerily dark and empty, except for two        Naimy: “I told you in my previous letter how doctors warned
grotesque figures. A naked human body lies on the table,          me against working. Yet I cannot do anything but work, at
its stomach open and intestines carefully placed beside it.       least I want to think…”
A 58-year-old man, Leonardo da Vinci, is busy, accurately            Gibran was tormented by pain from rheumatism and
sketching the various organs.                                     numerous other illnesses, which he soothed with alcohol
   Da Vinci was well aware his work required exceptional          so that he could work. Alcohol led to the enlargement of
resilience and diligence. He wrote: “And if you have love for     his liver, but what else could he do, when he felt that he
such things, you will perhaps be hindered by your stomach,        contained something divine that he needed to put on pa-
and if this does not prevent you, you may perhaps be de-          per, to share with other human beings? So the pain had to
terred by the fear of living during the night in the company      be endured. His friends were perplexed, but the poet told
of quartered and flayed corpses, horrible to see. If this does    them not to worry.
not deter you, perhaps you lack the good draughtsmanship
which appertains to such demonstrations, and if you have          Insatiable curiosity. Florence, Italy, year unknown. The
draughtsmanship, it will not be accompanied by a knowl-           swallows high in the clear blue sky seem but small, darting

                                                              “That is not richness which may be lost.”
                                                                                    – Leonardo da Vinci

black spots. There are so many they almost shade the sun,          could look at the world and not ask What? Why? How? Were
as they dive and swerve above the roofs. Da Vinci looks up         they asleep while awake?
and squints, his mind abuzz with questions. How do they
to stay in the air? How do wings work?                             unlimited imagination.       Milan, Italy, year unknown. The
   That evening he wrote: “A bird is an instrument working         plan was ready to be tested. Da Vinci was excited, it had to
according to mathematical law, which instrument it is with-        work. He wrote: “You should try this machine over a lake.
in the capacity of man to reproduce with all its movements,        Tie a long, air-filled bladder around you so you won’t drown
but not with a corresponding degree of strength . . . its joints   if you fall. The wing-stroke has to be two feet, so you can
should be made of strong tanned hide, and sewn with cords          control your flight and maintain balance and lower either
of strong raw silk . . . The machine’s wings ought not to re-      wing faster than the other if necessary, as you have seen
semble anything but the bat because the membranes form             hawks and other birds do.”
a web with the armature . . . Dissect the bat, study it care-          The world’s first helicopter was born. It was only one of a
fully and on this model arrange the machine.”                      plethora of innovations conceived by Leonardo, about which
   All natural phenomena raised questions for Leonardo.            he made prolific notes: a parachute, an alarm clock, a per-
What were air and water? What makes a rainbow? Why is              petual motion machine, a minting device, sluice gates for
water salty or fresh? What are the qualities of the sound of       a Florence canal and various military equipment. He pos-
a cannon ball? What is the purpose of the pain felt by liv-        sibly made some 100,000 pages of notes, but only 14,000
ing creatures? How do human senses work? How to create             have survived.
perspective? Why does an object falling at a slant not main-           New York, United States, 1956. It is early morning and
tain its course?                                                   there is still dew on the ground. Two men stand concentrated
   Da Vinci could not understand how people around him             at a shooting range – an arms specialist from the New York

                                                                                                                   V I A HELSINKI   17
GIBRAn FelT lOnely AmOnG                                                              can achieve all this – being, of course, inimitable – because
                                                                                      only I and Gala know the secret of making my film without
PeOPle AnD He COulD nOT                                                               having to cut or combine images.”
COnneCTIOn wITH A POweR                                                               Striving for virtue. Milan, Italy, year unknown. Human stu-
GReATeR THAn mAnKInD.                                                                 pidity is infuriating and makes his blood boil! How much
                                                                                      stupidity and blindness must he put up with? Is there noth-
                                                                                      ing in this world but toiling for money and fame? Da Vinci
Military Academy and Salvador Dalí, who is developing a                               grabs a chair and writes.
new artistic movement, Bulletism. The morning silence is                                 “I know many will say this work is useless; and these are
broken by an arquebus shot. A bullet full of lithographic ink                         they of whom Demetrius said he paid no more attention to
shatters as it hits the target, to the artist’s exclamations of                       the breath that formed words in their mouths than to that
joy. Something new and unprecedented is born!                                         other wind that proceeded from their backsides. These men
     “Each explosion gave birth to a complete lithograph which                        seek only material wealth and are entirely lacking in wis-
I only had to sign for collectors to tear it from my hands                            dom which is the food of the soul and the real and certain
at fabulous prices. Once again I showed that I had antici-                            food of the mind; because inasmuch as the soul is worth
pated the latest scientific discoveries when I learned, three                         more than the body, so the riches of the soul are more worth
months after my first arquebus shot, that like me, scien-                             achieving than material wealth. And often when I see one of
tists had used rifles and bullets to try and unlock the mys-                          these men take this work in his hand, I wonder whether, like
teries of creation.”                                                                  a monkey, he will not smell it and ask if it is good to eat .”
     Port Lligat, Spain, 1 June 1953. Dalí was planning a new,                           Whereas Salvador Dalí declares provocatively in his diary:
epoch-making film. “I shall tell the true story of a paranoid                         “Painters, be rich rather than poor. And to get rich: follow
woman in love with a wheelbarrow which successively takes                             my course!” Leonardo da Vinci was the very opposite. He
on all the attributes of a loved one . . . It shall be called the                     thought it was futile becoming attaching to material wealth
Flesh Wheelbarrow.”                                                                   because it resulted in fear of loss and dependency. Instead
     Dalí describes some scenes: “In one, swans with stomachs                         of wealth, we should strive for virtue.
fi lled with hand-grenades explode in slow motion. In an-                                Leonardo wrote: “Don’t call richness that which may be
other, windows of houses around the Fontana di Trevi will                             lost; virtue is our true good and the true reward of its pos-
open and six rhinoceroses will fall into the water. I alone                           sessor.” Virtue liberates people and increases happiness. As

     A future of Mad Genius?
     In the Middle Ages, Leonardo Da Vinci designed a helicopter and                  gen. Super-fast, energy-efficient trains will travel without friction,
     a submarine. His contemporaries thought his ideas utopian and                    over magnetic fields.
     totally unfeasible. five hundred years later, these medieval inno-                   The thinking capacity of computers will exceed that of the hu-
     vations are in common use.                                                       man brain. 3D printers will be able to reproduce various house-
         We tend to overestimate short term trends and underestimate                  hold products. So when the kitchen sink breaks the manufacturer
     long ones. The future will reveal which of the following are strokes             will transmit a design that a molecular-level printer can use to
     of genius – and which are pure madness.                                          recreate an exact replacement for the original sink.
         Nanotechnology will change lives. Nano-sized organic robots                      Phones will feature simultaneous interpretation as standard.
     will travel in human veins and organs, repairing damage. Nano-                   So an Indian will be able to communicate with someone in russia
     technology will also enable nonverbal communication between                      with no language barrier, for example. Mobile devices will also
     individuals directly from brain to brain.                                        have sensors to measure their user’s emotional state. Spectacles
         Leaps in biotechnology will make it possible to replace dam-                 will include 3D displays that will render computer screens and
     aged human organs with new, cloned ones. Technology will be                      other displays useless.
     integrated into the human body, creating cyborgs who can view                        because of its low price and high nutrition content, cultured
     their contemporaries through computerised eyes.                                  meat produced in biomass plants will become a major foodstuff,
         Terrorists will be broken of their ways through therapy and                  though its taste, appearance and production ethics are likely to
     chemicals.                                                                       raise suspicion at first. Mass-produced protein will become one
         Vehicle combustion engines will gradually be replaced by a                   solution to world famine.
     range of alternative power sources, from solar energy to hydro-                  SAMI LAAKSO

     Juha Kaskinen, Director of Finland Futures Research Centre of the University of Turku, provided background information for this article.

 “I say madness is the first
 step towards unselfishness . . .
 The purpose of life is to bring
 us closer to those secrets, and
 madness is the only means.”
                – Kahlil Gibran

an example, da Vinci mentions patience. It protects against      Kahlil told Mary that the loneliness he had felt for years
injustice like a woollen garment protects against the cold.      was gone:
                                                                    “I used to think I was a fragment of something else –
Faith in a higher power. Boston, United Sates, 25 March          something apart from the rest of life – and everything I
1908, Kahlil Gibran’s letter to his close friend and support-    wrote expressed, directly or indirectly, loneliness. But that
er Mary Haskell: “My soul is intoxicated today. For last         was really false. There is no such thing as aloneness and
night I dreamt of Him who gave the Kingdom of Heaven to          difference from the rest of life. I know now that I am part
man. O if I could only describe Him to you… The hunger           of a whole . . . ”
of my heart today is deeper than other days. I am intoxicat-        Gibran had come to understand that ultimately every-
ed with hunger. My soul thirsts for that which is lofty and      thing is one. God was in us and we in God. That greater
great and beautiful.”                                            power than us was not in some distant place; it was right
   Gibran, then 25, felt that the hunger of his soul could not   here, if only people could feel it. Everything was part of the
be satisfied with ordinary food. He needed beauty as ex-         same universe.
pressed by God. He felt lonely among people and no mat-             After this insight Gibran was finally ready to complete
ter how favourable his affairs, he could not be happy with-      The Prophet. It became a world-renowned classic and has
out a connection with a power greater than mankind. This         been translated into more than twenty languages.
feeling gnawed at him incessantly.
   Boston, United States, 30 December 1920. Three quar-          Self-awareness. Tuscany, Italy, year unknown. It was hard
ters of the manuscript for Gibran’s The Prophet were com-        to walk fast, as so many things caught the attention. It took
plete but his contributions to Arab newspapers were delay-       time to absorb the tiniest nuances through the sense of vi-
ing the work. Perhaps there was another reason for the de-       sion and to memorise them. That knotted olive tree branch,
lays. Mary Haskell was worried, they really should be making     and the shadow it cast on the late-summer hay burnt in
progress with The Prophet. She looked at Kahlil’s face, and      the sun. The countless hues discernible in a single silvery
suddenly realised something good had happened since her          leaf. Such incredibly beautiful colours and shapes, da Vin-
last visit. Something had clearly changed inside her friend.     ci thought.

                                                                                                                V I A HELSINKI   19
                                                                         cause humans are mortal and subject to decay and corrup-
                                                                         tion in their tombs.”
ATTenTIOn OR DOeS IT                                                     Awareness of one’s mortality. United States, 1928. A beam
lIe In THe numBeR OF                                                     of sunlight falls across the face of a 45 year old man sitting
InvenTIOnS AnD                                                           in bed. He is wan and seriously ill and his eyes look tired,
COnTRIBuTIOnS TO                                                         but his pen moves swiftly across the page. Kahlil Gibran is
SCIenCe?                                                                 writing a letter to a friend in Cairo, the poet May Ziadeh,
                                                                         whom he has never met, but with whom he has engaged in
                                                                         deep correspondence for more than 15 years.
   Leonardo believed animals and humans could understand                    “Do you realise, May, that whenever I think of the Depar-
the beauty of creation through their sense of vision, which              ture which people call Death, I find pleasure in such think-
gives rise to love. “We may think the soul is like a prisoner            ing and great longing for such departure. But then I return
within a man, and remains content only because the eyes                  to myself and remember that I still have one more word to
bring the soul images of all of nature’s work, and if we lose            say before I depart. I become perplexed between my disa-
our eyes, the soul is condemned to a dark dungeon . . . ”                bility and my obligation and I give up hope.”
   On the other hand, beauty cannot be described or per-                    Yet in the same letter Gibran also says he has finally learnt
ceived if it does not exist in oneself: “ . . . if you are yourself      even to enjoy his illness. When you are ill you are safe from
brutish, your character will be similar and without charm,               demands, dates, meetings, telephone calls and constant
and so will it be with all your virtues and vices: they will be          talking, he told May.
manifest in some way in your character.” So it mattered to                  Death was near and Gibran knew it. He felt quite natu-
da Vinci what kind of a person one was, because it was the               ral about it, almost longed for it. “For what is it to die but
inner qualities that determined how a person fathomed the                to stand naked in the wind and to melt into the sun? And
world and other people.                                                  what is it to cease breathing, but to free the breath from its
   To be a genius, one had to know oneself. “The greatest de-            restless tides, that it may rise and expand and seek God un-
ception men suffer is their own opinions,” da Vinci warned.              encumbered?” Thus Gibran describes death in The Prophet
“He who thinks little errs much.” He also wrote: “There can              (1923).
be no dominion greater or less than that over yourself.”                    In March 1930, Gibran felt so weak he wrote his will. A
   A sense of proportion is also important. “Those who have              year later he died, as he had predicted, at the age of 48 – still
chosen to worship men as if they were gods like Jove, Sat-               at work. The manuscript for The Wanderer was with Mary
urn and Mars are making an enormous error, for even if a                 Haskell to be read and all but ready for print, while the se-
man were as big as the world, he would still be one of the               quel to The Prophet, The Garden of the Prophet, remained
least of the stars, a mere speck in the universe; and also be-           unfinished. Gibran never fulfilled his lifelong dream of trav-

 A Packet of Smarties
Warren Edward Buffett – Oracle of Omaha                                  Stephen W. Hawking – Populariser of science
Perhaps the most successful investor in the world. An American, he       One of the world’s leading theoretical physicists, is also known
is one of the world’s richest people and a noted philanthropist.         for his brave struggle with ALS. Hawking communicates through
Linus Benedict Torvalds – Father of Linux                                a speech synthesizer attached to his wheelchair.
A Helsinki-born software engineer, programmer and hacker, who in         michael Jackson – King of Pop
the 1990s initiated the development of the Linux operating system        The most successful entertainer of all time, who turned music vide-
kernel and still works as a project coordinator for Linux.               os into an art form, made his moonwalk dance his trademark – and
madonna Louise veronica Ciccone – Queen of Pop                           his private life a spectacle.
Pop singer, songwriter, dancer, producer and actress. Has been a         Alfred Hitchcock – Plotmaster supreme
trendsetter for decades and sold more than 230 million records.          Wizard of the thriller and the most experimental moviemaker of
garri Kasparov – Chess mastermind                                        his time. Also known for the shortest Oscar acceptance speech
Russian chess grandmaster who at 22 became the youngest ever             ever: “Thank you.”
world chess champion.                                                    Diego maradona – Adept of the ball
Ingvar Kamprad – Home decorator to the globe                             Footballer who combined speed, strength, technical skill – and an
Founder of IKEA and developer of its global store concept. One of        impeccable eye for the game. Also remembered for the Hand of
the richest people in the world, he is known for his frugal lifestyle.   God goal he scored in the 1986 World Cup.

elling back to the land of his birth, the Lebanon.                  LEONARDO DA vINCI
                                                                    l born in the small town of Vinci in Tuscany, Italy, in 1452.
   His last words, however, were not disappointed or bitter.        l from a very early age showed exceptional interest in the natural en-
As the ambulance approached, Gibran quickly deteriorat-             vironment. Loved animals to the point of buying birds in the market to
                                                                    set them free.
ed. Yet he remained happy and playful. Just before enter-           l At 14 was apprenticed in 1466 to his father’s friend, sculptor Verrocchio.
ing the ambulance, he turned to his housekeeper Barbara             l Admitted to the Guild of St Luke, for artists and doctors, in 1472.
                                                                    l Worked in Milan, 1482–1499. His most famous works from this period
Yong and said: “Don’t be troubled. All is well.” Soon after,        are The Virgin of the Rocks, The Last Supper, and The Vitruvian Man.
he lost consciousness and died in hospital later that night,.       l Spent most the years 1513–1516 at the Vatican. The most famous of his
                                                                    16th century works is Mona Lisa.
   Perhaps this genius had internalised what he had so el-
                                                                    l His studies in science and technology were far ahead of his time. His
oquently expressed in his books. Sadness over what is left          research included a helicopter, an armoured tank, solar power and a
unwritten is unnecessary. If you are one with what you at-
                                                                    l Died in 1519 in Clos Lucé in france at the age of 67.
tempt to say when you write, everything already exists – so
                                                                    SALvADOR DALÍ
all is well.
                                                                    l born in Catalonia, Spain in 1904.
   All is well.                                                     l An ambiguous, provocative and versatile artist who wrote books, cre-
                                                                    ated commercials, designed theatre and ballet sets and also considered
                                                                    himself a scientist.
Epilogue                                                            l began studying at the royal Academy of fine Arts of San fernando
                                                                    Art Academy in Madrid in 1922. befriended many great artists of his
Helsinki, August 2010. I have read trough the diaries and
                                                                    time, such as Luis buñuel and federico Garcìa Lorca.
letters of Dalí, Gibran and da Vinci in search of a common          l Made two films with Luis buñuel: the short film Un Chien Andalou
                                                                    (1929) and the feature film L’Age D’or (1930).
feature that identifies genius. I realise I will not find an an-
                                                                    l Met the poet Paul Eluard and Gala in 1929.
swer since the luminaries in this article are so very different     l Married Gala in 1934. At the time Dalí’s relations with the intellec-
                                                                    tual leader of Surrealism, André breton, became strained mainly due to
from one another. Which of them was a true genius – was
                                                                    Dalí’s fascist opinions.
anyone? Were they all?                                              l received the gold medal from the Generalitat de Catalunya, the local Cat-
                                                                    alonian government, in 1981 for his accomplishments as a Catalonian artist.
    The answer surely depends on how we define genius. Is
                                                                    l Died in 1989. Most of his works were bequeathed to the Spanish state.
it the ability to be crazy and grab attention or does it lie in
the number of inventions and contributions to science? Or           KAHLIL gIBRAN
                                                                    l born in bsharri, Lebanon in 1883.
is a genius one who can grasp something essential about this        l Writer, painter, mystic and philosopher.
                                                                    l His family broke up in 1895 when his mother moved with her children
world and our lives more profoundly?
                                                                    to boston after his father was imprisoned.
    Does genius even exist – or is it merely a label for the ex-    l At 15 he returned on his own to Lebanon to study at Madrasat al-
ceptional or weird? Where do we draw the line between gen-          Hikmat – the School of Wisdom. He developed his exquisite poetic style
                                                                    during his years of study, incorporating both Arab and Western influ-
ius and madness? The question has remained unanswered –             ences. returned to the uSA after fours years.
and the line moveable – throughout history. Today’s mad-            l Studied fine arts in Paris, was noted as an acclaimed portrait artist.
                                                                    l Met arts patron Mary Haskell, who chose him as a protégés and who
man may be tomorrow’s genius, as with Galileo Galilei and           supported him mentally and financially for the rest of his life.
Socrates. There are probably those among us today whom we           l He never married. Corresponded with May Ziadeh for several years.
                                                                    l His main work, The Prophet, has been translated into more than twen-
regard mad because they are thinking ahead of their time.           ty languages.
                                                                    l Died in New york in 1931.

grigory Perelman – Hermit problem solver                            Tim Berners-Lee – Webbing the world
Russian mathematician who solved one of the most important and      Developer of the Word Wide Web, who in 2004 received the Finnish
difficult mathematical problems, the Poincaré conjecture.           million euro Millennium Technology Prize.
John Forbes Nash, Jr. – Creator of game theory                      Kiichiro Toyoda – Just-in-time man
American mathematician and Nobel Prize winner for economics.        Founder of the Japanese Toyota Motor Corporation, who develo-
Developed game theory strategy. russell Crowe starred as Nash       ped the JIT (just-in-time) management philosophy. The idea was
in the biopic Beautiful Mind.                                       to make goods to order, minimising wastage.
Walt Disney – Who believed in a mouse                               Donald Trump – Deal maker
American producer and director of animated films. Took enter-       Founder, Chairman and CEO of the Trump Organisation. Renowned
tainment to a new level. Disneyland theme parks draw 60,000         as producer and host of reality TV show The Apprentice. The show’s
visitors daily.                                                     rights have been sold to more than 20 countries.
J.K. Rowling – Single mother of Harry Potter                        gianni versace – Guru of glitz
An unemployed single mother who dreamed up a school of witch-       Italian fashion designer and costume maker, regarded most talented
craft and Harry Potter while on a train. Seven Harry Potter books   of the 20th century designers. Many credit him with the supermodel
later, she is a millionaire – married to her second husband and     phenomenon.
mother of three.

                                                                                                                         V I A HELSINKI   21
                           A r To TE r oN E N P H OTOS L E H T I KuVA

                Dean the

                       wORlD mOTORCyCle ROAD
                       RACInG CHAmPIOn JARnO
                       SAARInen lOOKeD SeT TO
                       ReAP A SwATHe OF FuRTHeR
                       TITleS. BuT wHen TRAGeDy
                       STRuCK, lIKe JAmeS DeAn
                       BeFORe HIm, HIS unTImely
                       DeATH COnTRIBuTeD TO A
                       leGenD lARGeR THAn lIFe.

                             arno Saarinen was a perfectionist. He was top of his en-
                             gineering class. He always ensured things were in order,
                             technically and otherwise, and never compromised safe-
                             ty. He built and serviced his bike himself. He was deeply
                       aware of what was at stake, refusing to race on the Isle of Man,
                       where death so often grabbed the headlines.

                       It is telling that Saarinen was never as famous in Finland, his
                       homeland, as he was elsewhere in Europe. The initiative to
                       name a road after him in Ruissalo in Turku came from Hol-
                       land, and the Italian F1 driver Jarno Trulli’s first name bears
                       witness to his father’s hero.

Monza, Italy, May 20th 1973.
”The organisers were desperate
to get the race underway at any
cost. That cost would be high.”

                                  V I A HELSINKI   23

                                                                    In spring 1973, Jarno Saarinen, at the age of 27, was only
                                                                 beginning to reach celebrity status in Finland. He had been,
                                                                 of course, duly hailed as the first-ever Finn to win a road rac-
                                                                 ing World Championship in the 250cc class the previous year.
                                                                 That spring he had signed with Yamaha. The goal was ambi-
                                                                 tious: to win a world championship in all three classes (250cc,
                                                                 350cc and 500cc).
                                                                    Of the first six races that spring, Jarno had won five. The next
                                                                 contest was at Monza, Italy, on May 20th. The organisers were
                                                                 facing timetable problems and the situation was fairly chaotic
                                                                 to begin with. There were rumours of oil on the track and many
                                                                 riders were complaining. One of the organisers asked British
                                                                 racer Mick Grant “Are you scared?” They were desperate to
                                                                 get the race underway at any cost. That cost would be high.

                                                                 Afterwards, those who raced at Monza that day have tried to re-
                                                                 construct what really happened, for themselves and others. One
                                                                 version suggests that the Italian Renzo Pasolini’s rear tyre skid-
                                                                 ded from under him after hitting oil leaking from Walter Vil-
                                                                 la’s bike in the previous start. The oil theory has since been ques-
                                                                 tioned. A later explanation has it that Pasolini’s engine seized up,
     FLYINg FINNS                                                spinning his bike over. We will never know for certain.
     finland is a major power in motor sports. Here are a            Pasolini hit a metal guard rail shielded by straw bales and was
     few finns who have claimed world championships on           killed. His bike bounced back onto the track, hitting Saarinen. “I
     four wheels.
                                                                 saw how he tried to stand up, but he was hit by the bikes coming
     Mika Häkkinen is Finland’s most successful F1 driver with   after,” said Mario Lega, an Italian racer near the leading pack.
     two World Championships under his belt (1998 and 1999,
                                                                     The first paramedic on the scene, Riccardo Prosperi’s de-
     McLaren-Mercedes). Häkkinen also competed in the
     German Touring Car (DTM) series in 2005–2007.               scription was brutally final: “I saw Saarinen lying on the track
                                                                 without his helmet. Half of his head was gone.”
     Keke rosberg was the first Finn to win the F1 World
     Championship, in 1982 (TAG Williams Team). His son Nico
     has been racing in F1 since 2006.                           How the news of Saarinen hit me as a young man following his
                                                                 career can only be described as surreal. It felt like time stopped;
     Kimi räikkönen won the F1 World Championship in 2007
                                                                 there was a moment, a minute or longer, when all sound dis-
     (Ferrari). For the 2009 and 2010 seasons Räikkönen
     switched from F1 to rally car racing.                       appeared. Though death is inevitable, nobody could imagine
                                                                 that Saarinen would meet his so early. He had only just begun
     Juha Kankkunen is a four-time World Rally Championship
     winner (1986, 1987, 1991 and 1993) and after the Spanish
                                                                 his journey to becoming the idol of thousands.
     Carlos Sainz, the second most successful rally driver of       Perhaps Jarno himself, despite all his precautions, could
     all time.                                                   best imagine the possibility of an accident. As the son of an
     Tommi Mäkinen is also a four-time winner of the World
                                                                 undertaker, he was more familiar with death than most. It
     Rally Championships. He won in consecutive years, from      was somehow tragic, thinking back, that he had already cho-
     1996 to 1999.
                                                                 sen his own tombstone.

Driving the family hearse. According to his brother Jari, Jar-          Turku’s most famous grave. Perhaps deep down, Saarinen had
no and his wife Soili had visited a local headstone engraver dur-       a subconscious premonition, which a mind would create when trav-
ing an Imatra Grand Prix, where Jarno pointed out a particular          elling a road that has no timetable for completion. He knew the
stone. It was to be the one his widow Soili eventually chose for him.   risks, did his best to avoid them, but in the end his goal became
   The memory of that day is vividly evoked by the natural stone        a dead-end. His road became an act of heroism that others be-
in Turku cemetery, which in every respect seems to suit Saarin-         side Jarno would witness. And that heroism lives on, more years
en’s character. The simple, unpolished memorial bears the re-           having passed since his death at 27 than the years that he lived.
cessed engraving of Jarno’s signature. Only the years of his life,
1945–1973, have been inscribed, as if precise dates of birth and        When Jarno Saarinen was inducted into the prestigious Mo-
death don’t matter.                                                     toGP Hall of Fame in 2009, Soili Saarinen attended to receive
                                                                        the recognition. Over the years she has received numerous in-
And to add yet another element of mystique to the story,                vitations to Grand Prix races, but has declined. The memory
Saarinen used to drive the family undertakers’ black car. Many          of her late husband lives on, but she does not allow hero wor-
laughed at what they said looked like a hearse, which Jarno             ship to rule her life.
had to admit was what it was. Later, he swapped the hearse for             Jari says Jarno was always considerate of others and ready to
a Volkswagen van in which, true to his character, every little          help, and was well-liked wherever he went. And he was prob-
thing had its own designated place. There was space for sleep-          ably better known abroad than in Finland. Jari has also heard
ing, a small kitchen and a trailer.                                     from the head gardener of the Turku cemetery that Jarno’s
   But his first tourer, the hearse, would still play a part in the     grave is still the most sought for, although the grounds are the
Saarinen legend.                                                        final resting place of many of the great and the good of Finn-
                                                                        ish history, including the legendary nine-time Olympic win-
It was in this same car that Jarno made his last trip home from         ner Paavo Nurmi, who was dubbed the ‘Flying Finn’ long be-
Europe. Jari and a third brother set out in it for Monza on 21 May      fore Saarinen’s time.
1973, arriving on the Wednesday after the accident. I dare not              With a spectacular career cut short, Saarinen remained,
ask Jari about the journey, nor is there reason to. We can all im-      much like his headstone, an uncut diamond, broken before it
agine what must have gone through the brothers’ minds in that           achieved its fullest shine.
black vehicle as they returned through Europe.
                                                                        On the afternoon of 20th May 1973 at the Monza circuit, in an
Jari has compiled a collection of memorabilia of his brother in         attempt to console Soili Saarinen, somebody said that God takes
Turku, a kind of “last pit” that keeps Jarno’s memory alive, al-        away first those He loves the most. It is a logic the human mind
though it is more than 37 years since that day in Monza.                may struggle to accept.
   In Finland, that memory may need some active cherishing,
                                                                        The extracts in italics have been translated from the Finnish book Kiveen
although he remains far more famous among younger genera-               Hakatut, urheilusankaruuden jäljillä (Arto Teronen/Jouko Vuolle, Kirjapa-
                                                                        ja, 2009).
tions than many other Finnish sports heroes of his day. But the
motorcycling world will never forget him. Mat Oxley, a British
motorcycling expert, still ranks Saarinen among the ten most
influential racers in history. In his book The Fast Stuff, he plac-
es him fifth on the list of not just the fastest but the most sig-         Rallying to monza
nificant racers and personalities.                                         The city of monza is in Lombardy, Italy, 15 kilo-
   Oxley says Saarinen is and will remain a legend because                 metres northwest of Milan. It is best known for
there are “few racers who died as long ago as Jarno Saarinen               its Autodromo Nazionale Monza race track. It has
                                                                           been hosting races since 1924, and bar one excep-
that the sport still misses!”                                              tion (1980) has run a F1 grand prix race every year
   Part of the Jarno Saarinen legend is also that he was not a             since 1950. Particularly in its earlier days, Monza
                                                                           was one of the most dangerous circuits in the world
daredevil, but a true professional who took no shortcuts and
                                                                           owing to the extreme top speeds achieved on it.
carefully weighed all the risks. He was fully aware that the fate
he eventually met was always a distinct possibility.                       Several airlines fly from Helsinki Airport to Milan.

                                                                                                                               V I A HELSINKI   25
                                                                                                                     The large-scale extension of
                                                                                                                 Terminal 2 at Helsinki Airport
                                                                                                                   is easily identifiable. The new
                                                                                                                  terminal areas nestle under a
                                                                                                                 delta shaped wing, reminiscent
                                                                                                                     of the wing of the supersonic
                                                                                                                    Concorde jet. The delta wing
                                                                                                                       extension was designed by
                                                                                                                      Parviainen Arkkitehdit Oy.

                      of the Air
                       THERE IS SOMETHING
                       SPECIAL ABOUT THE BUZZ
                       OF AN AIRPORT THAT
                       MUST BE CONSIDERED
                       WHEN TERMINAL DESIGNS
                       ARE STILL ON THE
                       DRAWING BOARD.
                       M AA rI T SE E L I N G P H OTO M A rJA H E L A N D Er

            rchitect Pekka Salminen, whose firm PES-Archi-              their way through it. Signs, lighting and materials affect how
            tects has designed many of Helsinki Airport’s ex-           smoothly passengers flow through an area.
            tensions, says planning an airport and its surround-            “An airport terminal is like a huge machine, a logistic cen-
            ings means a host of compromises.                           tre processing people through it. Designing a terminal, howev-
   “Passengers want an airport to be easy to negotiate and cosy,        er, must above all take account of individual needs. The archi-
businesses look for affordable locations near transport routes          tect must reconcile the needs of various users. Developments
and airport authorities have their own requirements for siting          in air traffic and constant changes pose their own challenges,
points of service. The space must be efficient yet easy to ne-          too,” Salminen says.
gotiate,” he says.
   Safety, however, is paramount and without compromise.                Pre-flight sauna. Helsinki Airport Terminal 2 comprises a
Salminen points out that the sense of security is not only about        section that was built in 1969 and extended in the 1980s and
eliminating external threats. People more commonly wor-                 1990s as well as a new extension designed by PER-Architects
ry about missing their flight or finding their gate. In the best        and completed in 2004. Last year saw the extension of the non-
case, a space is self-guiding and people will instinctively find        Schengen gate area.

    “We are currently working on a railway station between ter-    of services for pampering passengers, with Europe–Asia tran-
minals 1 and 2 as well as extensive refurbishment and altera-      sit passengers particularly in mind.
tion works at the original terminal,” says Salminen.
    Salminen’s career as an airport terminal designer began in     Next stop China. Recently the Chinese market has kept Pekka
the mid 1980s when he was asked to design a sauna and VIP          Salminen and PES-Architects busy. The Grand Opera in Wuxi,
facilities on the terminal roof. “The working drawings were        about 150 kilometres from Shanghai, is nearly ready and other
well underway when it was realised that increased air traf-        projects are underway in China. Construction of a 200 metre
fic would require building projects of a different sort, so the    high skyscraper is about to begin.
rooftop sauna was abandoned. It was a good decision, as it             In fact PES-Architects can thank Helsinki Airport for open-
would have made it impossible to build the extension we were       ing up the Chinese market. “We were looking for suitable gran-
to design later,” he says.                                         ite for the floors in Terminal 2 extension a few years ago. Chi-
    The terminal did get its sauna though, first in the basement   nese granite was suggested and I travelled there to investigate.
and now on level 3 of the customer service area. A new-gener-      I did find a suitable variety. Our operations in China took off
ation Via Spa opened in the extension last year, offering a host   from there,” Salminen recounts.

                                                                                                                    V I A HELSINKI   27
                        T I I A S oI N I N E N I l luST raT I O n S E L I N A WA r STA P H OTOS L E H T I Ku VA

                      Backdrop to the
                                                                 mICHAel CAIne,
                                                                 JOHn HuSTOn,
                                                                 wARRen BeATTy,
                                                                 DIAne KeATOn...
                                                                 HelSInKI HAS PROvIDeD
                                                                 THe SeTTInG FOR TRuly
                                                                 STellAR FIlmS OveR
                                                                 THe yeARS. SelDOm AS
                                                                 HelSInKI, THOuGH,
                                                                 AnD RARely FOR mORe
                                                                 THAn Ten mInuTeS.

                                                                                                         Ulpu Mankinen is a guide for
                                                                                                               Destination Lapland Oy
                                                                                                        operating at Ylläs Fell, taking
                                                                                                     tourists from around the world to
                                                                                                      enjoy the wilderness of Lapland.

                      SCENE ONE
The entire ninth floor of the Palace Hotel overlooking a Hel-       days if not weeks of filming on location, and numerous memo-
sinki harbour is hired out to the production team of the film       rable incidents. One Helsinki man, oblivious of the film shoot,
Telefon. The Uspenski Cathedral on the opposite side of the         happened on a townhouse corridor when a van full of armed
harbour stands in for the Kremlin and the island fortress of        men charged in with their assault rifles. They were actors in
Suomenlinna serves as a Soviet military base and the House of       costume, about to enter the apartment of the treacherous agent,
Estates (Säätytalo) in central Helsinki, is the KGB headquarters.   but the poor man in the corridor thought his end had come.
   It is January 1977 and Don Siegel is directing a thriller in        A different but equally powerful impression was felt by an
which a KGB agent has stolen a book with the names of KGB           18 year old man who was watching the co-operation between
undercover agents in the USA in the 1950s. The agent must be        Siegel and Bronson at close range. He was Lauri Harjola, later
eliminated and a major, played by Charles Bronson, is called        better known as the action film director Renny Harlin. Harlin
to do the job. Most of the film takes place in the US, and Hel-     alludes to his Finnish roots in many of his films: a parachute
sinki – standing in for Moscow and Leningrad – features for         in colours of the Finnish flag in Cliffhanger, Jean Sibelius’ Fin-
about ten minutes in the final cut.                                 landia in the Die Hard 2 soundtrack and the visible Finlandia
   But ten minutes in a feature film are usually the result of      vodka bottle in Deep Blue Sea.

                                                                                                                       V I A HELSINKI   29
            Diane Keaton and Warren
            Beatty in Helsinki, 1981.

Michael Caine shot scenes for
Million Dollar Brain in 1967.

                                               Charles Bronson and Don
                                               Siegel cooperating in 1977.

                                wITH ITS SOvIeT BORDeR,
                             TSARIST ARCHITeCTuRe AnD
                           lOTS OF SnOw In THe wInTeR,
                                HelSInKI wAS FOR yeARS
                              A POPulAR FIlm lOCATIOn,
                            BuT Only AS A STAnD-In FOR
                                   SOvIeT CITIeS, TO THe
                                      CHAGRIn OF FInnS.

                                                     V I A HELSINKI   31
HelSInKI wAS THe PeRFeCT STAnD-In — IT HAS nO TellTAle lAnD-
TO GIve THe GAme AwAy.

                      SCENE TWO                                    the people of Helsinki to a “raffle party” and anyone “wear-
A plane lands at Helsinki Airport on 22 October in 1981 car-       ing dark, preferably well-worn clothes” would be welcome.
rying megastars Warren Beatty and Diane Keaton. They are           Over 8,000 raffle tickets of different colours were distributed
to play the leading couple in the three-and-a-half hour epic       and crowds were moved from one side of the square to anoth-
Reds, set in Russia between 1915–1920. This tale of American       er or to the middle according to the colours. The prizes were
socialist intellectuals has, in its grandeur, been compared to     not bad: pocket cameras, trips to Sweden and the Canary Is-
Gone with the Wind, Lawrence of Arabia and Doctor Zhivago.         lands, the main prize being that trip to America: a two-week
(Doctor Zhivago, as it happens, was also partially shot in Fin-    holiday for two in New York and Florida!
land, and Omar Sharif, as Yuri Zhivago, was a sensation in            Interestingly, for these shoots the camera was placed at the
the Joensuu region in eastern Finland in the winter of 1965!)      corner of Unioninkatu and Hallituskatu streets, so the Cathe-
   Warren Beatty directed and starred in Reds. “I’ve had no        dral, which in real life dominates the square, is not seen at all.
free time at all since April, but I don’t expect to. When I turn      Reds premiered on December 3rd 1982 – but not in Finland
on the sauna in the evening, that’s enough,” he said, delighting   as Beatty had suggested. The film had run at least three times
the audience at a press conference in a Helsinki hotel.            over budget, but the risk was worth it: Reds bagged 12 Oscar
   At that time, Finland’s biggest newspaper, Helsingin Sanomat,   nominations, with Beatty winning the Oscar for best director.
ran an ad announcing “Win a free trip to America!” The idea
was to gather as many extras as possible for a crowd scene shot                        SCENE THREE
in Helsinki’s Senate Square. The production company invited        Sirkka and Eila, two schoolgirls from Helsinki, are excited.
                                                                   Their idol, actor Michael Caine, is in Helsinki. The girls came
                                                                   to the location every day after school to watch Caine work –
                                                                   and they are such devoted fans that even the star noticed them.
                                                                   To the press, Michael Caine referred to his two young fans flat-
     Starring Helsinki – for once!                                 teringly as ‘friends’. It was winter 1967, and the British heart-
                                                                   throb was in Helsinki to shoot scenes for Billion Dollar Brain.
     No point in opening a Japanese diner in Japan, says
     Japanese Sachie. So she will open one in the Helsinki            What is rare is that Helsinki for once got to stand in as –
     district of Punavuori, offering traditional Japanese
                                                                   Helsinki! The film was based on a Len Deighton novel, in
     food to Finns. The locals peer suspiciously at Sachie.
     Who is this woman? So small, is she still a child…?           the early part of which Deighton explains that Finland is not
        This is the starting point for the Japanese film           a Communist satellite state but one that enjoys the affluence
     Kamome Diner (Kamome Shokudo), with Satomi Kob-
     yashi in the lead role. Directed by Naoko ogigami in          of the Western world. Finnish shops abound with steaks, LP
     2006, the camera shows Helsinki in summer, with slow          records, frozen foods and TV sets. He describes Helsinki as a
     shots of the Market Square, Café Ursula, the sea at
     Kaivopuisto, the indoor swimming pool in Yrjönkatu,           well tended small town in perpetual winter. However, during
     Temppeliaukio Church, the Sibelius Monument and               shooting of the film, Helsinki experienced a very mild winter,
     Hakaniemi Square. Kamome Diner might as well be a
     promotional film for Helsinki, and even features well-        with the temperatures close to zero, nor did the people of Hel-
     known Finnish brands, from Iittala to Artek. Its direc-       sinki play their expected role as grim folk depressed by the cold!
     tor says she has seen Iittala glassware and Marimekko
     textiles in every single Finnish home she has visited.           Besides Michael Caine, the film starred the young French
        Kamome Diner is the first Japanese film shot in Fin-       actress Françoise Dorléac, who despite wearing fur in the mild
     land, and the owners of Kahvila Suomi, the actual diner
     featured in it, have noticed a change since it was made –     weather was said to be constantly freezing. She told the press
     many of their customers are nowadays Japanese tourists.       she had purchased some souvenirs from Finland – Moomin
                                                                   products and Marimekko textiles.

                    SCENE FOUR                                                                    CUT!
It is February 1969 and an aircraft approaches Helsinki. Ex-      This scene nearly became reality after Alfred Hitchcock, Mas-
cept it is now Moscow – and the transformation is evident even    ter of Suspense, visited Helsinki in August 1968. He had been
from the air. Instead of Helsinki Airport, the sign on the ter-   to Denmark to shoot Topaz, and decided to visit another Nor-
minal roof says Mockba, complete with hammer and sickle.          dic country. The director thought he might return the follow-
   This time the film was The Kremlin Letter, directed by the     ing summer to shoot The Short Night, set in Finland.
legendary John Huston. It was shot in the centre of Helsinki,        The next summer came and went, but plans for the thriller
including the Ateneum Art Museum opposite the Railway Sta-        never materialised, though the idea simmered with Hitchcock
tion and the University of Helsinki’s Topelia block. Ritarikatu   and Finnish film makers. In 1977, Hitchcock invited Finnish
street in the district of Kruununhaka was turned into a Rus-      actor – director Åke Lindman to visit Hollywood. Lindman
sian thoroughfare by changing all its shop and tram stop signs    had assisted the international crews of many of the films men-
into Russian. Commented Huston on Helsinki as a location:         tioned in this article and would have been an invaluable aide
“We are here because of your architecture and snow.”              to the director. Sadly, Hitchcock was now 80 and already quite
   Again the Helsinki scenes last only ten minutes in the fi-     frail. The Short Night remained a dream.
nal version. By contrast, scenes shot in Finland for Gorky Park
                                                                  The article is based on the book by Outi Heiskanen Tehtävä Suomessa – Ko-
(1983) make up 85 per cent of that film. Still, a Helsinki park   timaamme ulkomaisissa elokuvissa, Teos, 2008.
was substituting for Moscow!

                                                                                                                          V I A HELSINKI   33
                         SA M I AN T Er oI N E N P H OTOS A N T T I Ku r oL A

Blaze of G
                      Exit in a

       TO SHAME.

                       V I A HELSINKI   35
THe AnCIenT SámI wORD ruska ReFeRS TO THe exPlODInG
A GenTle yellOw, ASPen FlASH ReD, BlueBeRRy leAveS BuRn

The forest is on fire. There’s really no other way to describe what       Yes, that’s right. Despite its northern location, Rovaniemi
I see. Wave upon wave of vibrant flame, red, orange, yellow,          is still an urban environment, more like a gateway to Lapland
ablaze through the forest as far as the eye can see.                  than a genuine part of it. Having lived in Lapland’s biggest city
    I’m standing on the northern slope of Luosto fell, a 12 year      for three years by then, I felt I knew what the province was all
old boy amazed at Nature’s grand display. Gradually, the su-          about. But this journey shook my schoolboy confidence – there
pernatural recedes and the rational sets in: the trees are not        was a wilderness out there that I knew nothing about, a whole
really burning. What I’m witnessing is a perfectly natural phe-       other world to be explored.
nomenon called ruska. This ancient Sámi word refers to the                From the window of the bus I start to believe the trip won’t
exploding colours of the forest each autumn, in a breathtak-          be a complete waste of time, after all. At first I had failed to
ing display that burns forever into the memory.                       see the point of going to a skiing resort without snow on the
    I glance to my side at my grandma, who has opted to climb         ground – brilliant! But my grandmother had come all the way
the rocky slopes after all. At 68, she is out of breath but exhil-    from Lahti in the south to savour ruska to the full. I had to see
arated. The awesome sight is more than worth the climb, and           what the fuss was about.
this place is more than worth the trip.                                   The bus is a great place for family stories as well. Turns out
    My mother is here, too, gazing into the distance, letting it      that granny had been longing to make the trip for ages. She
all sink in. Three generations on a mountain side, immersed in        even had German friends who were big Lapland lovers, but
the power and glory of ruska. Talkative as our little trio is (on     she had never been beyond Rovaniemi. My grandfather hailed
just about any given day), no words are necessary right now.          from the Northern city of Oulu, so the outing was significant
Seeing is believing, and Luosto has made believers of us all.         for that reason, too.
    How did we get here? It’s 1985, and we took the bus from              Ruska. The way she said it, the word seemed to ooze special
my home town of Rovaniemi – the capital of Lapland – to the           reverence. My mother, also from Lahti, was impressed as well,
Luosto skiing resort. It is September and during the hour and         but not in the same, semi-sacred sense. To granny, ruska was
a half ride north we have gained a full taste of what is to come,     in the same league as the Aurora Borealis or the Midnight Sun
the leaves of the roadside trees flaunting their vivid hues, wel-     – part of the unexplainable, undeniable magic of this region.
coming us to the real Lapland.                                            Mother Nature’s formula for these fireworks is simple

                                                                                                                As the daylight hours decrease
                                                                                                                 and the weather grows colder,
                                                                                                            plants prepare for the long winter
                                                                                                              ahead by moving the chlorophyll
                                                                                                             from their leaves into their bran-
                                                                                                             ches, trunk and roots. This mass
                                                                                                               exodus of chlorophyll makes the
                                                                                                              colour agents in the leaves glow.

enough. As the daylight hours decrease and the weather grows         Leaves do change colour in southern Finland, too – not to men-
colder, plants prepare for the long winter ahead by moving the       tion the rest of the world. My answer may be more spiritual
chlorophyll from their leaves into their branches, trunk and         than scientific, but it has something to do with the dance of
roots. This mass exodus of chlorophyll makes the colour agents       the seasons in the north.
in the leaves glow.                                                     After a long, frigid winter, summer brings it on with both
   The more often the night time temperatures fall below ze-         barrels, bombarding the senses with sun round the clock. And
ro – and the drier the air – the more vibrant the pageant be-        just when summer is forced to surrender, autumn stages a last
comes. Birch trees turn a gentle yellow, aspen flash red, blue-      desperate rally, a valiant dash in a final blaze of glory.
berry leaves burn brilliant scarlet. This shamelessly gaudy dis-        Ruska is Nature’s finest hour against the mounting gloom
play of natural wonder peaks around mid to late September.           of winter – and worth every minute.
   But what is so extraordinary about the ruska in Lapland?

    Colour me Lapland
    Ruska has always been a potent source of inspiration for Finnish artists. In the visual
    arts, one man’s achievements remain unequalled to this day: reidar Särestöniemi
    (1925–1981). Hailing from tiny Särestö village in the heart of Lapland, Särestöniemi
    committed to canvas all the fierce colours of the surrounding country. The red,
    orange and yellow of ruska time became a reoccurring theme in his work.

    In his wake, countless artists have kept the autumn flame alive. Northern artists, such
    Anu Pentik, are constantly striving to find new ways to interpret the northern light
    and the playful avalanche of colour. Anu Pentik ceramics can be purchased at Helsinki
    Airport, too. (GATE 27).

                                                                                                                      V I A HELSINKI   37
M I L E S T o N E
                      SA M I LAA KS o P H OTO S uSA J uN N o L A

                                               Mission to
                                                             he invitation from the President of Somalia, Sheikh
                                                             Sharif to visit Mogadishu caused some trepida-
                                                             tion. It was 2009 and the city was in turmoil, with
                                                             the government in control of only a small strip of
                                               land that included the airport and the presidential palace. The
                                               African Union peacekeeping mission was underway but most
                                               of the city, indeed, the whole country, was in fact in the hands
                                               of a number of warring guerrilla groups. The president reas-
                                               sured me it would be safe to travel there through the special
                                                    arrangements provided by the peacekeepers, as long as I
                                                        didn’t mention my plans to anyone.
                                                               I ignored his advice and instead asked the opin-
                                                               ion of one of my advisors in Asmara the Eritrean
                                                                   capital. He thought it was a bad idea, saying
                                                                   that several guerrilla groups were targeting
                                                                   the airport and planting roadside bombs in
                                                                      “But you know these groups,” I said. “Why
                                                                   don’t we call them and ask if it is safe for me
                                                                   to go to Mogadishu.” My friend was doubtful
                                                                   but gave me six phone numbers, and I started

                                                                PEKKA HAAvISTO
                                                                has served the United Nations and the Euro-
                                                                pean Union in various capacities in crisis
                                                                areas throughout the world, including Kosovo,
                                                                Serbia, Afghanistan, Iraq, the Palestinian Ter-
                                                                ritories, Liberia and Sudan. He is currently a
                                                                member of the Finnish parliament and serves
                                                                as Special Representative to African Crisis
                                                                Areas to the Minister for Foreign Affairs.
                                                                Haavisto’s appointment in 1995 as Minister
                                                                of the Environment and Development Co-
                                                                operation made him one of the first cabinet
                                                                ministers in the EU to represent a Green party.

M                     o                      M                      E                     N                       T                         S

dialling. “President Sharif has invited me to visit Mogadishu. I        “Are you a doctor?” he continued. I said I would be visiting
have a feeling that it might not be safe for me to come,” I said    the city as a guest of the government. He told me I’d be trav-
to one guerrilla chief on the phone.                                elling on my own responsibility, which did make me nervous.
   “But of course it is. Mr Haavisto, you are welcome,” Ysuf re-    I was met at Mogadishu airport by the African Union peace-
plied and thanked me for calling. I got the same response from      keeping troops with an armoured car. They were clearly con-
each of the guerrilla chiefs I managed to reach. Later, I carried   cerned, recounting that there had recently been several attacks.
out a similar round of calls to contacts provided to me in Cai-     Nothing happened, however, as we drove through the city to-
ro, with the result that all the parties fighting in Mogadishu      wards the presidential palace. I met the President, and even
were aware of my arrival.                                           spent the night at the palace as the first foreign guest to do so.
   I boarded the plane to Mogadishu in Nairobi, Kenya, im-              “This calm is very strange,” said the President on my depar-
mediately arousing interest. “Are you sure you are on the right     ture. He was sure that none of the guerrilla groups had heard
plane?” asked the captain dubiously before take-off in the air-     about my visit. I never told him that in fact every single one of
craft that was otherwise full of Somali businessmen. I said I       them had been notified.
was indeed going to Mogadishu.                                          In my work in conflict resolution, I have come to learn that
                                                                    it is best to try and talk to everyone. So far, nobody has hung
                                                                    up on me. If conflicting parties start by talking to the negotia-
                                                                    tor, they might eventually talk to one another.

                                                                                                                      V I A HELSINKI   39
viaservice                                                 How to find your way at Helsinki Airport

      Wavy Vase
                                                                                     Alvar Aalto was a Finnish architect and designer,
                                                                                     some of whose works are on display, or rather in use,
                                                                                     at Helsinki Airport: Café Alvar A is furnished and

      				masterpiece	by	                                                            decorated with his works, such as the Savoy vase,
                                                                                     which are also on sale at the airport.

      Alvar	Aalto                                                                    Café Alvar A
                                                                                     GATE 24

  Shopping                                           POINT SH O P TO g O
                                                                                                              l Design
  l Alcohol and tobacco                                 Taking a flight with no paperback to help you
                                                                                                              PE N T I K
  HE LSINKI A IRPORT Du TY FREE                         pass the time? Point shop saves the day with a
                                                                                                              Finnish design company Pentik manufactures
  Traditional Finnish spirits as well as all the most   wide selection of the latest titles.
                                                                                                              tableware and a range of interior decor products,
  popular international brands and the latest cos-      TeRm InAl 2
                                                                                                              with an emphasis on muted, earthy colours.
  metic products.                                                                                             G ATe 27
  G ATe S 13, 26–27 A n D lOnG-HAul F lIGHTS            R EADER’S
                                                        To quote an Arabic saying: “A book is a garden
                                                                                                              STO C KmA N N S H O P
  F I N NAIR SHOP TAx FREE                              carried in your pocket.” Reader’s has the best
                                                                                                              Stockmann Shop offers a wide selection of Iittala
  Pay a visit to Helsinki Airport’s best wine cellar.   selection of books at Helsinki Airport.
                                                                                                              glassware. The Iittala design philosophy is built on
  Purchases here will add to your Finnair bonus         GATe 14 An D lOn G - H Au l Fl I G H TS
                                                                                                              the thinking of designer Kaj Franck: the ultimate
  points.                                                                                                     purpose of all articles is to be sensible, durable
  G ATe 27                                              R-KIOSK I
                                                                                                              and functional. The hottest sellers at Iittala’s shop-
                                                        R-kioski is Finland’s best-known kiosk chain. All
                                                                                                              in-a-shop include Moomin tableware, Mariskooli
  l Books and Newspapers                                Finns are familiar with the company’s slogan, “fast
                                                                                                              bowls and Aalto products.
  F I N NAIR SHOP TAx FREE                              and pleasant shopping”. R-kioski stocks newspa-
                                                                                                              G ATe S 2 6 An D 3 3
  Purchases here will add to your Finnair bonus         pers and magazines, paperbacks, confectioneries,
  points.                                               gifts, souvenirs and hygiene products.
  G ATe 27                                              GATeS 2 8 AnD 3 3 , C He C K- In A Re A O F
                                                        TeR mInA l S 1 & 2

            Alvar Aalto and his wife Aino Marsio designed the
            Savoy vase, more commonly known as the Aalto
            vase, in 1936. It comes in several colours and siz-
            es. The price depends on both; red glass is the most
            expensive because it is the most difficult to manufacture
            and uses the costliest tint. The smallest in the Aalto
            vase family are the tealight holders (red €34.20). Pair
            them with Iittala Kivi tealight holders (grey €13.90).
            Stockmann Shop
            GATES 26 and 33

                                                             Sofi oksanen’s award-winning
                                                             novel Purge (€14.25) is a journey
                                                             into the tragic recent history of
                                                             Estonia through the eyes of two
                                                             women. Published in 2008, it has
                                                             been translated into several
                                                             languages. Oksanen is a Finnish
                                                             writer of Estonian descent from her
                                                             mother’s side.
l Electrical Equipment                                       reader’s
Air-Foto is a Nokia Premium Care outlet, main-               GATE 14 and long-haul flights
taining your existing Nokia devices and providing
you with new ones.
T eR m I nA l 2/ARRI vA l S 2B

Capi has everything to make your holiday memo-
rable: memory cards, camera accessories and, of
course, cameras. Capi outlets also stock all the
                                                    AIRPORT MAP
leading mobile phone brands and their acces-
sories, mp3 players, video cameras, Suunto and
Polar wrist-top computers and GPS devices..
G ATeS 1 2, 26, 28 A n D lOnG-HAul Fl IGHTS
                                                                                                         Gates 30–34
                                                                                                                                              T2                         Gates 24–29

l Fashion, Accessories and
                                                                                                                                                                CHECK-IN AREA
The place to go for international brands for men                                                                                                       TO                                                            VIP
                                                                                                                                                     HELSINKI                                                      CENTRE
and women. ARG stocks such world renowned
names as Boss, Day, Gant, Guess and Eton.              Gates 35–38                       VIA SPA
                                                                                                                                                                                                     TO        CONGRESS
                                                                                                                                                                                                   HELSINKI     CENTRE
G ATeS 1 3–14 A n D lO n G-HAul FlIGHTS

                                                                                                                              Transfer Desk
Tennis star René Lacoste was known as the
Crocodile. The crocodile logo of the clothing                                                                                 Smoking area
company he founded has also found its way onto                                                                                Shopping area
                                                                                                                                                                                                           Gates 11–23
bags. The Lacoste Pique shirt is one the brand’s
                                                                                            Security Control

                                                                                                                              Restaurants, Bars & Cafés
most recognisable and popular products.
G ATeS 26–27                                                                                Passport Control                  Airport Lounges                                    TO
                                                                                            Flights to/from Europe            Currency exchange /
Lu H TA S HOP A IRPORT                                                                                                        Tax Free Refund

                                                                                            Flights to/from Asia,
Luhta embraces the sporty everyday look known                                               USA, UK and Russia                Children’s Playrooms
                                                                                                                                                                     IN A
                                                                                                                                                                    C K-

as “street sport”. The Finnish brand is owned by

L-Fashion Group Oy, a leading Nordic clothing
company in business since 1907.                     Finavia offers a wireless internet connection free of charge at Helsinki Airport.
G ATe 2 8
                                                    Airport Website:                                                    Via Helsinki Website:                                                Airport Information 24 h
                                                                                                                                 tel. +358 200 14636 (0,57 €/min + lnc)

                                                                                                                                                                                          V I A HELSINKI      41
viaservice                                          How to find your way at Helsinki Airport

                               Wind and rain proof – and breathing –
                               padded jacket (€129.90) has a
                               detachable hood.
                               Luhta Shop Airport
                               GATE 28

                                                                                                    The bracelet (€28) and neck-
                                                                                                    lace (€37) by the Finnish
                                                                                                    House of Elliot are made of
                                                                                                    cultured freshwater pearls.
                                                                                                    finnair Shop Tax free
                                                                                                    GATE 27

Crocodilia is a family of some
twenty species of reptiles. In
the world of fashion, the croco-
dile is the emblem of Lacoste,                 Lux BAg                                              m uL B E R RY
the brand that took its name                   Luxurious Loewe, Marc Jacobs and Celine bags,        Leather handbags, wallets and belts for men and
                                               apparel and accessories for the discriminating       women. We also stock the Bayswater, Mulberry’s
from René Lacoste’s nick-                      taste.                                               all time favourite hand bag style!
name, ‘The Crocodile’.                         GATe 33                                              G ATe 3 3

                                               mARI mEK KO                                          STO C KmA N N S H O P
Classics suit everyone                         Looking for a Finnish classic? Get the Olkalaukku    Stockmann is the best known department store
                                               bag designed by Ristomatti Ratia in 1971. Jackie     in Finland, and the company’s Helsinki Airport
regardless of age.
                                               Kennedy, fashion icon and wife of President John     Stockmann shop carries a full range of the world’s
Children’s polo                                F. Kennedy, made Marimekko dresses famous in         top fashion labels – Boss, Furla, Burberry and
shirts (€49)                                   the 60s.                                             more!
                                               GATeS 26 – 27                                        G ATe 3 3
and jeans
(€76) come                                     m-B Ox I                                             T I E RAC K
                                               Match your wallet, your handbag and your mood!       Tie Rack can provide you with everything you
in sizes for                                   Orange will give you energy while coral green will   might have left at home: socks, belts, boxer
2–10-year-                                     soothe you. At M-Box you can always find elegant     shorts. The selection also includes ties, bags,
olds.                                          Longchamp and Tumi products.                         sweaters and scarves – for yourself or for loved
                                               GATeS 2 6 – 27 An D 3 3                              ones.
                                                                                                    G ATe 27
Lacoste                                        mOO mIN S H O P

GATES 26–27
                                               Moomin and his friends look good on anything         l Gourmet and Sweets
                                               and anyone: the extensive product range is not       AIRPORT SHOP
                                               just for the kids.                                   Perfumes, confectionery, cosmetics, gifts and
                                               GATe 26                                              Finnish gourmet products.
                                                                                                    G ATe S 2 0 AnD 2 6 - 27

      42   V I A HELSINKI
viaservice                                                    How to find your way at Helsinki Airport

                                                                                                         The lesser-known heroes of the
                                                                                                         Moominvalley are the handsome-
                                                                                                         ly attired Chief of Police (€17)
                                                                                                         and Mymble (€12), who is des-
                                                                                                         perately in love with him.
                                                                                                         Moomin Shop
                                                                                                         GATE 26

                                                                                                                   KA L EvA L A KO Ru – LA P P O N I A J E W E L RY
                                                                                                                   This is as Finnish as jewellery gets: Kalevala Koru
                                                                                                                   and Lapponia Jewellery represent the peak of
                                                                                                                   Scandinavian jewellery design. Kalevala Koru’s
                                                                                                                   original patterns, real ideas and inspiring stories
                                                                                                                   make each piece unique. The sculptured design
                                                                                                                   and softly glowing surfaces of Lapponia Jewelry
                                                                                                                   are known all around the world.
                                                                                                                   G ATe 1 4

                                                                                                                   l Perfumes and Cosmetic
                                                                                                                   AIRPORT SHOP
                                                                                                                   Perfumes, confectionery, cosmetics, gifts and
                                                                                                                   Finnish gourmet products.
                                                                                                                   G ATe S 2 0 AnD 2 6 – 27

                                                                                                                   A R R IvA L S H O P
                                                                                                                   You’ve arrived empty-handed, but don’t worry!
                                                                                                                   Drop in at the Arrival Shop, conveniently located
                                                                                                                   in the baggage claim hall, and choose from our
                                                                                                                   large selection of perfumes, cosmetics, confec-
                                                                                                                   tioneries and children’s gifts.
                                                                                                                   B AG G AGe Cl A Im H Al l S O F Te R m In A l 2
  A R RI vAL SHOP                                         R-KIOSK I
  Don’t worry about arriving empty-handed – buy           Chocolate bars, pastilles and candy bags – all           F I N N A I R S H O P TAx F R E E
  presents at the baggage claim when you return           lined up and ready to take with you.                     Perfumes, aftershaves, lotions, make-up from
  from your trip! Choose from a wide range of per-        GATeS 2 8 AnD 3 3 , C He C K- In A Re AS O F             Boss, Lancôme, Gucci, Prada…
  fumes, cosmetics, sweets and children’s gifts.          TeR mInA l 1 An D 2                                      G ATe 27
  B AGGAGe C lAI m HA llS OF TeRmI n Al 2
                                                          STOCK m A N N g O uR mE T                                H E L S I N K I A I R P O R T D uT Y F R E E
  F I N NAIR SHOP TAx FREE                                Salmon and special cheeses, herring and Karelian         The world’s most popular cosmetic brands and
  Sugar + cream = fudge. It’s so good you won’t           pasties, lanttukukko (swede baked in a pie) and          fragrances.
  feel guilty indulging! There’s something for every      false morel are just some of the delicacies of           G ATe S 2 6 – 27, 1 3 AnD lOn G - H Au l Fl I G H TS
  sweet tooth at Finnair Shop: fudges, chocolates,        Finnish cuisine on offer at this gourmet paradise.
  liquorice, fruit drops – you name it.                   There are even dried strawberries.
  G ATe 27                                                GATe 26

  HE LSINKI A IRPORT Du TY FREE                                                                                    Restaurants and
  Fazer Blue is the best-loved chocolate in Finland.
  You can buy this and many other favourites at the
                                                          l Jewellery and Watches
                                                          ARg AIRP O R T FAS H I O N
  Duty Free.                                              Fashion jewellery for fashionable apparel, from          BA R D E L Ig H T
  G ATe S 26–27, 13 A n D lOn G-HAul Fl IGHTS             the same boutique. Brands include Snö, Oxxo and          Beverages from beer to champagne, not forget-
                                                          Miss Dee.                                                ting the classics and a choice of special coffees.
  PO I NT SHOP TO gO                                      GATeS 13 –1 4 AnD lOn G - H Au l Fl I G H TS             Tapas and snacks. Soft drinks and small savouries
  Point shop is the airport’s corner shop, offering ki-                                                            to take away. Sockets for charging laptops and
  osk products, coffee and fresh pastries, take away      ASEmAN K E L LO                                          phones.
  items, foodstuffs, hygiene products, newspapers         If you’re into watches then Aseman Kello is the          G ATe 1 4
  and paperbacks. Finns love the lottery and other        place for you. Find all the top brands as well as
  kinds of betting. You too can try your luck. Fill in    the best and brightest in jewellery.                     CA F é ALvA R A
  your winning numbers today! At Point shop.              GATeS 2 6 – 27 An D lOnG - H Au l Fl I G H TS 2          Alvar Aalto (1898–1976) was a Finnish function-
  T e R mI nA l 2                                         SHOPS                                                    alist architect and designer. His most famous
                                                                                                                   building is the Finlandia Hall in Helsinki. Café Alvar
  PI C NIC TAKE AWAY                                      FINNAIR SH O P TAx F R E E                               A at Helsinki Airport is named after Aalto and rep-
  Time is tight, but hunger calls. Change course for      Guess, House of Elliot, Nomination… Purchases            resents the best of Finland, in philosophy, design
  the Picnic Take Away! Sandwiches, salads, food-         here will add to your Finnair bonus points.              and food. Much of the cafe’s food is produced
  stuffs and fresh bread to go.                           GATe 27                                                  locally by small and independent Finnish farmers.
  T e R mI nA l 2/ARRI vA lS 2A                                                                                    G ATe 24

                                                  What’s in Your Bag,

                                        SISSy SPorT
                    Finally at the airport! To celebrate the start of
                    her holiday, Sissy treats herself to a glass of Moët
                    &Chandon Imperial Brut champagne (€14/12cl).
                    Sipping her bubbly, Sissy’s thoughts wander back                         Sissy still has time for some
                    to her trip to watch tennis at Wimbledon. To mark                        last minute shopping. For a healthy snack
                    that very special occasion, Sissy and her friends or-                    she chooses a bag of Green Tree Strawberry
                    dered a bottle of Dom Perignon (€200).                                   Flakes (€5.90). To her delight, the freeze-dried
                    bar Delight                                                              strawberry flakes are high in fibre and low in
                    GATE 14                                                                  calories – only 120 kcal in 30 grams.
                                                                                             GATE 20 and TErMINAL 1

                                                                                                          Divine crimson patent leather (€222)
                                                                                                           makes a perfect present for Sissy’s
                                                                                                           mother, whose birthday’s approach-
                                                                                                          ing and who loves Longchamp bags.
                                                                                                                    GATES 26–27 and 33

Sissy loves accessories that reflect her sporty
style. She is immediately at home in a flow-                                A fan of fresh and sporty fragrances,
ing Burberry scarf in Pale Rosewood (€224)                                  Sissy immediately falls in love with Armani’s
and oversized Haga Eyewear shades (€13.50).                                 clean, aquatic scent Acqua di Gioia
Stockmann Shop                                                              (EdP 50 ml €46.20)
GATE 33                                                                     Helsinki Airport Duty free
                                                                            GATES 13 and 26–27 and long-haul flights

                                                                                                                                     V I A HELSINKI   45
                                    Style comes with age. The
                                    makers of the grand Tourer        CA F é PI C N I C
                                    watch (€249), men’s accesso-      Newly renovated Picnic is known for its baguettes,
                                    ry manufacturer Dalvey Scot-      baked potatoes and special coffees. Salads, soft
                                                                      drinks and pastries are also available.
                                    land, were established in 1879.   Open 24/7
                                    finnair Shop Tax free             T e RmI n Al 2

                                    GATE 27                           CA F é T u uL I
                                                                      Café Tuuli is located temporarily at gate 27 in
                                                                      one of the busiest areas of the Helsinki Airport.
                                                                      When time is tight, get it to go from Tuuli. But if
                                                                      you have time to kill, sit down and enjoy the café’s
                                                                      range of sweet and savoury delicacies and selec-
                                                                      tion of refreshing drinks.
                                                                      G ATe 27

                                                                      C E SA R’S P I zzA & F O O D CO u R T
                                                                      Helsinki Airport staff know this breakfast, lunch
                                                                      and dinner spot well, located just downstairs
                                                                      from Departures Hall 2. Buffet with a wide range
                                                                      to choose from. Pizza and filled baguettes also
                                                                      T e RmI n Al 2

    Men’s Bleu de Chanel (After Shave Lotion                          g O ! CA F é
    100 ml €39.70) is a completely novel                              The history of GO!Café is a bit like the Eiffel
                                                                      Tower’s. Both were intended as temporary struc-
    blend of scents, “too black to be blue and                        tures but plans changed. And as the popularity of
    too blue to be black”; masculine and                              the GO!Café has increased, so have its selection
    aromatic. The base notes are a fusion                             and service. There are now two of these cafes
                                                                      at Helsinki Airport. Terminal 2 Go!Café offers a
    of pink pepper, ginger and patchouli.                             superb selection of take away food and you can
    Helsinki Airport Duty free                                        also recharge your laptop computer. The GO!Café
                                                                      in Terminal 1 serves an excellent soup and salad
    GATES 26–27 and 13 and long-haul flights

 New Hello Cafe at Rovaniemi Airport. Welcome!
New Hello Cafe at Rovaniemi Airport. Welcome!
 New Hello Cafe at Rovaniemi Airport. Welcome!
New Hello Cafe at Rovaniemi Airport. Welcome!

         46   V I A HELSINKI

Turku airport Kuusamo airport Rovaniemi airport
 Turku airport Kuusamo airport Rovaniemi airport                                 
Turku airport Kuusamo airport Rovaniemi airport
 Turku airport Kuusamo airport Rovaniemi airport                                 
lunch with beverage. New terrace open, Go!Café
in terminal 1.
G ATe 2 0 A n D T e Rm In A l 1

The clock on the Stockmann building in central
Helsinki is one of the city’s most popular meeting
spots. At Helsinki Airport, Spoon plays a similar
role. Sweet and savoury pastries, sandwiches and
baguettes, fresh salads, special coffees, smoothies
and ice-cream – also to take away. P.S. The soup
special for the day costs only €4.70 and the salad
special €5.70. New terrace open.
Open 24/7
C H eC K- I n AR eA OF T e Rm InAl 2

Feeling peckish and a little thirsty? Relief is at
hand in this comprehensive, 400 seat restaurant.
It has its own bar offering a wide range of cock-
tails. The soundscape for the bar was designed
by DJ Slow.
G ATe 35

Leaving the airport on an empty stomach? The
Picnic Take Away will make sure you leave satis-
fied! Sandwiches, salads, foodstuff and fresh
bread to go.
T eR m I nA l 2/ARRI vA l S 2A

A new restaurant that will pamper your palate,                    The cloudberry, related to
eyes and ears like none before. To open in Octo-              the bramble, is a characteris-
G ATe 27
                                                            tic wetland berry in the north-
                                                              ern hemisphere. It is used for
                                                               jam, juice, liquor and various
Robert’s Coffee is one of the airport’s landmarks –
it’s the most popular and well-known coffee shop                 pasties. Cheese and cloud-
and a frequent meeting point for people travelling              berry jam (€5.84) is a tradi-
together. Special coffees, house pastries and
baguettes, sandwiches and filled rye bread – also               tional Finnish delicacy. Rec-
to take away.                                                       ipes for other mouthwa-
G ATeS 24–25
                                                                 tering Finnish desserts can
S E AS O N S RESTAu RANT & CAFé                                   be found in Sweet Finland
Table service for pizzas, burgers, salads as well as                  cookery book (€33.21).
traditional Finnish fare, including herring dishes.
And to top off a delicious meal or for a lighter                                Stockmann Gourmet
snack, the café serves fresh ground coffee and                                                  GATE 26
sandwiches and oven-fresh pastries from its own
G ATe 1 4

If this cosy Irish pub were to be renovated, its pa-
trons would probably riot. Many trips have begun       HOTEL gLO H E L S I N K I AI R P O R T                 drink in peace before your flight.
in this haven for beer and whisky lovers.              Palace Kämp Group is currently renovating its          G ATe 1 2
G ATe 2 2                                              hotel rooms at Service Floor, Terminal T2, to
                                                       open as the modern, international style Hotel Glo      S I LvE R W I Ng S LO uN g E ( FI N N A I R)
W I N E & vIEW                                         Helsinki Airport in September. You can maintain        The main lounge in Finnair’s Schengen-flight area
A unique wine bar, not just in Finland but any-        your lifestyle even while you’re travelling, at the    breaths the essence of Finland, from Eero Aarnio’s
where. Its varying selection includes the world’s      luxurious Glo hotel.                                   Ball Chairs to blue and white tableware by Arabia.
best mature wines and a range of interesting           TeRm InAl 2                                            G ATe S 2 5 – 2 6
modern wines. Delicious tapas are also avail-
able. Wine & View will serve you wines from all        l Lounges                                              TOW E R LOu N g E ( SS P * )
continents. The wine list is updated regularly and     vIA LO uNgE ( FI N N A I R & SS P * )                  The peaceful Tower Lounge presents Finnish inno-
has included a number of rarities, such as port        The new lounge in the long-haul flight area has        vation in practice. There’s a Private Audio Space,
from 1861.                                             space for 250 passengers to work or relax. There’s     where you can connect your own computer or
G ATe 2 8                                              a buffet for the peckish and a wine bar with a         mp3 player to listen to music – privately, with no
                                                       high quality selection. You can also freshen up in a   headphones.
l Hotels                                               private shower room.                                   G ATe S 2 5 – 2 6
H I LTO N HELSINKI -vANTAA AIRPORT                     GATeS 36–37
At the five-star Hilton hotel you can check in for                                                            * Lounges are open to business class passengers,
your flight and wait with no rush until passengers     SAS Bu SINESS LO u N g E                               Priority Pass or Airport Angel card holders as well
are called to the gate. Some rooms also have a         This new lounge, with its Scandinavian style           as entitlement card holders flying with the follow-
sauna. A stone’s throw away from Terminal 2.           decor, is situated near several Star Alliance flight   ing airlines: Aeroflot Russian Airlines, Air China,
n e xT TO T e R m In A l 2                             passenger gates in Terminal 1. Enjoy a snack or a      Air France, British Airways, Bulgaria Air, Czech

                                                                                                                                                   V I A HELSINKI   47
viaservice                              How to find your way at Helsinki Airport

A butterfly tie (€59) puts col-
our and a little playfulness in-
to a sober outfit – without com-
promising style. The tie comes
in two colours that you can
choose according to your
mood and shirt. Tie Rack hand-                                                                             The new Paco Rabanne
made English silk ties are avail-                                                                          scents, Lady Million (EdP
able in dozens of patterns.                                                                                50 ml €47) for women and
Tie rack                                                                                                   One Million (EdT 50 ml
GATE 27                                                                                                    €39) for men, are sophis-
                                                                                                           ticated, with spicy notes.
                                                                                                           finnair Shop Tax free
                                                                                                           GATE 27

              Snö of Sweden
            necklace (€49.50)
           gives that final touch
               to any outfit.
               Stockmann Shop
                    GATE 33
                                    Airlines CSA, Finnair, KLM Royal Dutch Airlines,            the ground floor of car park P3. The service desks
                                    Malev and Ukraine International Airlines. LOT               for car rentals are on the arrivals floor.
                                    Polish Airlines and Turkish Airlines business class         Av I S
                                    will be given an invitation at check-in which will          tel. +358 9 822 833
                                    also entitle them to lounge service.                        B uD g E T
                                                                                                tel. +358 207 466 610
                                    l Spa                                                       E uR O P CA R
                                    vIA SPA ( FI N N A I R)                                     tel. +358 40 306 2800
                                    An oasis in the middle of an airport, with almost           H E R Tz
                                    600 square metres to relax in. Plunge into the              tel. +358 20 555 2100
                                    spa’s mineral water pool or let the rocks in the            S I xT
                                    clear water of the wading pool massage your feet.           tel. +358 200 111 222
                                    Refresh yourself in one of four different saunas
                                    and pamper yourself with one of the treatments              l Conference Services
                                    specially designed for air passengers. Ask for a            Are you planning an international event in a qual-
                                    combined Via Lounge and Via Spa ticket!                     ity environment? The facilities at Helsinki Airport
                                    GATeS 36 –37                                                can be adapted to meet the needs of large con-
                                                                                                ferences and small meetings alike.
                                    l VIP Services
                                    vIP C ENT R E/ H E L S I N K I A I R P O R T CO Ng R E SS   H E L S I N K I A I R P O R T CO Ng R E SS has nine flex-
                                    More than a dozen meeting rooms for business                ible meeting rooms, the largest accommodating
                                    travellers – and for more romantic occasions.               up to 140 people. The meeting rooms provide
                                    Every few months, a happy couple exchanges                  modern audiovisual equipment and communica-
                                    marriage vows in the airport’s VIP facilities. Let          tions. A professional conference assistant will help
                                    the honeymoon begin!                                        you with all the practicalities.
                                    Contacts: Tel. +358 020 708 3117, http://www.               tel. +358 207 629 732
                                    TeRm InAl 2                                                 T e RmI n Al 2
                                                                                                Three smaller rooms for meetings with 2–8 par-
                                    l ATMs                                                      ticipants.
                                    You can get cash from the ten ATM machines in               tel. +358 9 8277 3117
                                    the terminal.                                     
                                                                                                T e RmI n Al 2
                                    l Car Hire
                                    Renting a car at the airport is a convenient way to         H I LTO N H E L S I N K I-vA N TAA A I R P O R T
                                    travel: put your cases in the car and drive away!           tel. +358 9 73 220
                                    Advance booking over the Internet makes travel-   
                                    ling even faster. Rental car parking is available on        n e xT TO Te RmI nA l 2

       48     V I A HELSI
v I P PR E SIDENT T ER mINAL is ideal for large
groups and state visits. Weddings and other
private events can also be organised here. The
                                                                         brAND PICK: LoNGCHAMP
facilities readily accommodate 10–100 guests. Visi-

                                                          From Cigarettes to Accessories
tors have access to two conference rooms and a
lounge as well as a festive lobby plus a separate
press room.
tel. +358 9 8277 3117                            For Jean Cassegrain and his tobacco trade, world war II did not end in victory.
L I I K E L E NTOTIE 10                                   when the Allied Forces left Paris, the store room of the shop he took over from his
                                                          father was still cluttered with pipes that had been popular among American GIs but
l Currency Exchange and
Banks                                                     hardly anyone else.
CH A Ng E gRO uP                                             yet in a flash of inspiration he saw another fortune right under his nose – Casseg-
C H eC K- I n -AR eA 200 (T eR m I nAl 2),                rain could fashion leather covers for pipes, cigar cases and other smoking para-
A R R IvA l S HA ll 2A, 2B A nD 1, GATeS 26
A nD 3 1 , BAGGAG e C lAIm 2A
                                                             In 1948, the innovative entrepreneur extended his collection and established a
NORDEA                                                    new company, Jean Cassegrain & Compagnie. The rest is history.
T eR m I nAl 2
                                                             His high-quality products sold swiftly. The Parisian elite particularly loved the
SA mP O BANK                                              leather-clad pipes, which could be made to specific order. The name longchamp
T e Rm In A l 2                                           was adopted, since Cassegrain was already taken by a cousin’s business.
                                                             The world-famous trademark was the result of a string of mental associations.
l Hair Salon                                              Cassegrain, meaning ‘miller’, suggested the mill next to the famous longchamp
Do you need a quick trim, or even a major makeo-
ver? Whatever you need, the airport’s hair profes-        horse track, and by extension, the world of saddle makers and skilled leatherwork.
sionals are there to help you!                               Sixty-two years later, the family
                                                          business is still known for luxuri-
tel. +358 9 822 206
T eR m I nA l 2                                           ous handmade leather prod-
                                                          ucts – first and foremost
l Internet and Work Facilities                            the bags, but also
Do you need to check your connecting flight               wallets, gloves and
or e-mail a colleague? You can do just that via           belts. In addition to ac-
Helsinki Airport’s wireless network, available for        cessories, the collection
you free of charge and covering all waiting areas,
cafés and restaurants. When your computer is
                                                          includes other leather-
within network range, the message “Free wireless          covered items such as
internet” automatically appears on your screen.           notebooks.

If you leave your computer at home, you might
want to use one of the ten Internet kiosks avail-         Large Longchamp
able for a fee. You can also make Skype phone
calls from these kiosks. You can use all common
                                                          wallet (€129) and small
credit cards to pay for the connection fee.               purse (€40) in purple are
                                                          eye-catchers. The stun-
You can get more work done at the eService Bar,           ning colour comes into
with its six Internet connected computers avail-          its own in an embossed
able for a fee. You can pay the connection fee
using any common credit card or buy time at the
                                                          crocodile skin pattern.
adjacent Go!Café during its opening hours.                M-boxi
                                                          GATES 26–27 and 33
Open 24/7
G ATe 2 0

Have you always wanted an easy Internet con-
nection whenever you travel? Zonga Mobile Wi-Fi
works anywhere in Finland. Zonga Mobile Wi-Fi
                                                      FINLAND 'S FO u N D PR O P E R T Y                m E H I Lä I N E N A I R P O R T (CL I N I C)
rental service for travellers, pick up and drop off
                                                      Customer services                                 l e nT ä Jä nT I e 1 e , 6 T H F lO O R
at the Helsinki Airport.
                                                      tel. 0600–41006 (within Finland), 0900–1090909    Booking +358 10 414 00
T eR m I nA l 2, ARRI vA l S 2A
                                                      (from Sweden), +358 600 41006 (other countries)
l Lost and Found                                                           l Airport Service Center –
                                                                                                        24 hours at your service
Oh, I’ve left my wallet on the coffee shop table!
Don’t worry – finland’s found Property will help
                                                      l Medical Services and                            Any information you need concerning parking tips
you. For items forgotten at the airport or aboard
                                                      Pharmacy                                          & options, flight schedules, information on shop-
                                                      LENTOASEmA N A P T E E K K I ( AI R P O R T       ping facilities and security regulations.
aircraft, passengers can contact Finland’s Found
                                                      PHARm ACY)                                        lO C ATe D AT AR R IvA l S F lO O R PASSAG e
Property Service by telephone or by filling in an
                                                      An extensive range of medicines and other care    Be T w e e n T 1 A n D T 2 .
online enquiry form. The best time to enquire
                                                      products associated with travelling.              Tel. +358 (0) 200 14636 (0,57 €/min+lnc).
about lost property is the following day. Finland’s
                                                      TeRmI nAl 2
Found Property charges a fee for lost items

                                                                                                                                                 V I A HELSINKI   49
viaservice                                                 How to find your way at Helsinki Airport

  l Storage Services                                    The fare from Helsinki Airport to the centre of
                                                        Helsinki is about 30 euros. A number of taxi com-
                                                                                                               palainen insurance company. Here you can book
                                                                                                               hotel rooms in Finland and leave items such as
  If you’re travelling to warmer climes you can leave
                                                        panies also have service points at Helsinki Airport.   your car keys, winter clothes or skis for storage.
  items such as winter coats, keys or skis to here.
                                                        SuO mEN A I R P O R T TAx I
                                                        Fixed fare shared taxi                                 A I R P R O T RAvE L S E RvI C E S 24 H
                                                        tel. +358 600 555 555                                  Open 24/7
  Open 24/7
                                                        TeRm InAl 1 AnD 2                                      tel. +358 600 03360 (1.46 €/min+lnc)
  tel. +358 600 03360 (1,46 €/min+lnc)
                                                                                                               T e RmI n Al 2
  A R RI vA lS 2B
                                                        TAx IPOIN T
                                                        Special taxi services                                  F I N L A N D T RAvE L B uR E Au
                                                        Open 24/7                                              Business Travel Centre
  Charge according to locker size, 4 or 5 € / 24 hrs.
                                                        tel. +358 9 8256 5566                                  tel. +358 10 826 5920
  0.50 € cent, 1 € and 2 € coins accepted or 5 €
                                                        TeRm InAl 2                                  
  and 10 € euro notes. You can also pay by Visa or
                                                                                                               T e RmI n Al 2
  MasterCard credit cards.
                                                        Y ELLOW LI N E AI R P O R T TAx I
  T e R mI nA l S 1 A n D 2
                                                        Fixed fare shared taxi, tours, chartered drives        KA L EvA T RAvE L LT D.

  l Tax Free Refunds                                    tel. +358 600 555 555
                                                        TeRm InAl 1 AnD 2
                                                                                                               Business Travel Centre
                                                                                                               tel. +358 205 61 5780
  Didn’t use all your tax free cheques? You can get
  a refund at Global Refund. Refunds are available
  from The Change Group in the long-distance
                                                        l Tourist Information                                  T e RmI n Al 2
                                                        Personal tourist advice, every day from 10–20 hrs.
  flight area.
                                                        Helsinki brochures in 11 languages and two info        l Travel Insurance
                                                        terminals available 24 hours a day. The Helsinki       A I R P R O T RAvE L S E RvI C E S 24 H
  C H AN gE gROu P
                                                        Card is also available here.                           Open 24/7
  G ATe 31
                                                        TeRm InAl 2                                            tel. +358 600 03360 (1.46 €/min+lnc)
                                                                                                               T e RmI n Al 2
  G ATe 25
                                                        l Travel Agencies
                                                        Travel services for private and business needs.
  l Taxi Operators                                      Airpro Travel Services’ 24 hour service point sells
                                                        bus and boat tickets, Helsinki Cards and single-
  Taxis are always available outside the Terminals.
                                                        trip travel insurance policies from the Euroop-

  50    V I A HELSINKI
for business.
Blue1 flies you to all major European business destinations,
nonstop. We are the largest air carrier between Finland and
Scandinavia. In addition, we fly daily to Berlin, Brussels,
London Heathrow, Paris and Zurich, just to mention a few.
Autumn 2010 brings added domestic frequencies: 9 flights to
Oulu, 4 flights to Kuopio and 4 flights to Vaasa.

Starting September 13, 2010, we take you also daily to Munich.
Hertzlich Willkommen!

Blue1 is a Finnish airline and member of Star Alliance, world’s largest airline
alliance, offering you 1172 wonderful destinations in 181 countries around
the world. Valuable EuroBonus points on all flights. For more information and
reservations, please contact your local travel agency or visit
For more information, please visit

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