■ ■ ■ ■ ■
WHAT ’ S
R I S I N G THE SAN FRANCISCO BAKING INSTITUTE FA L L 2002
New Program How Different this season...
& New Home Flours Perform ● 14Week Training Program Begins
in April ...Sign up by February 2003!
Michel Suas Didier Rosada ● Baking Performance of Flours
SFBI Founder SFBI Head Instructor
● Baker’s Tip and Recipe
We are happy to announce that SFBI— As we all know, flour is the most important ● New 2003 Class Schedule!
the only school in the U.S. dedicated ingredient of the dough. Flour—because of
exclusively to artisan baking—will soon be its origin, process and characteristics—is
moving to a nearby location three times also one of the most sensitive ingredients.
the size of our current facilities. Our new Its baking performance can be effected by
10,000 square foot building includes two a myriad of factors, such as the type of
large classrooms, a lab, a library and a wheat used, protein content, ash content, Recently, we decided to explore the rela-
cafeteria. We are very excited about this treatments and aging. tionship between the flour specification
opportunity to give our students and sheets and the quality of the final product.
visitors an even more comfortable and tech- Millers, in order to classify flours and give To do so, we used eight different flours sold as
nologically advanced environment in which more indications about their characteristics, “Artisan Flour”—all within the same protein
to experience artisan baking at its best. compile a flour specification sheet to provide range and ash content.
information about the type of wheat used,
Our move comes just in time for the new protein content, ash content and treatments. Five samples were from the Bay Area.Three
14 Week Intensive Training program we are samples were the same flour brand but sold
offering starting in April 2003. (You can Only a baking test allows in different areas of the U.S.— East Coast,
Midwest and West Coast (#5, #6, #7: See
read more about it beginning on page 5.)
Designed with the European model of a baker to define the chart on page 4. )
apprenticeship and training in mind, the subtle changes that occur Because we were comparing for educational
14-week program gives students all the
skills they need to qualify as skilled profes- with every type of flour. purposes only, we did not use brand names,
but instead labeled the flours by number.
sional bakers. The program includes two
weeks of training in Rouen, France, where As bakers, we can gain much valuable
students will be introduced to artisan information from these specification sheets, continued on page four
baking in the European tradition. including analytical data such as alveograph
continued on page seven
or farinograph values. Of course, bread
characteristics like crust, crumb color
and flavor are not provided
with these specification
The San Francisco Baking Institute sheets. Only a baking
390 Swift Avenue, #13 test allows the baker to
South San Francisco, CA 94080 define these subtle
phone 650.589.5784 fax 650.589.5729 changes that occur with
www.sfbi.com every type of flour.
where better baking begins 1
■ ■ ■ ■ ■
■ ■ ■ ■
The Power Of Salt
from Didier Rosada
In addition to improving bread flavor, salt is
useful in controlling the activity of preferments.
Benoitons Recipe When a preferment, such as poolish or sponge, is maturing too
quickly due to warmer temperatures, adding .2 to .3% salt is just
enough to slow down activity without interfering with aroma.
Just remember that when the quantity of salt in the final dough is
calculated, the amount of salt used in the preferment must be
When a stiff levain is becoming liquid or mushy in the center, this
is a sign of undesirably intense enzyme activity (protease) between
Rich in hazelnuts and raisins, these delicious rolls are the feedings. As little as .1% of salt incorporated during the feeding
perfect way to celebrate the fall season with your of the culture will be enough to noticeably slow down the
customers. The combination of the toasted nuts and protease of the flour and bring your sourdough culture to a
sweetness of the dried fruit will make a perfect accompa- normal consistency—without interfering with the microorganism
niment for blue cheese, fruit platters, or simply as a snack activity of the sourdough.
anytime during the day.
Ingredients Baker’s % Levain
Flour 60 6 Lbs. 1.2 Lbs. 4.8 Lbs.
Rye flour 40 4 Lbs. 4 Lbs. From the Rolling Pin Forum
Water 70 7 Lbs. .6 Lbs. 6.4 Lbs. Didier Rosada Answers Your Baking Questions
Yeast (fresh) .4 .04 Lbs. --- .04 Lbs.
Starter 6 .6 Lbs. .6Lbs. ---
Salt 2 .2 Lbs. --- .2 Lbs.
Hazelnuts (toasted) 15 1.5 Lbs. --- 1.5 Lbs.
After many years of practice, my rye bread usually turns out very
Raisins (moistened) 15 1.5 Lbs. --- 1.5 Lbs.
well, but I cannot achieve a nice, really crisp crust.The crust is always
rather soft. I steam the oven, I use a baking stone and the bread
Levain --- --- --- 2.4 Lbs.
“thumps” when done. But I never get a crispy, crackly crust.
Total Dough 208.4 20.84 Lbs. 2.4 Lbs. 20.84 Lbs.
Procedure Try to bake your rye at a decreasing temperature and open the oven
Mixing Mix until ingredients are well incorporated door at the end of the bake for about 10 to 15 minutes. This will
Fermentation Ferment 8 hours at 75 -80°F
allow the crust to dry out and stay crispy as the bread cools down.
Mixing 1st speed: 4 – 5 minutes (soft dough consistency)
Mixing 2nd speed: Improved mix (gluten half developed) If you have a baking question, visit us at www.sfbi.com
Desired dough temperature 75 to 77°F
First fermentation 2 hours and go to the Rolling Pin Forum under the Forums and
15 to 20 minutes
Links section of our site.
Shape: Round shape
Proof: One and a half hour on dusted linen
Scoring Lightly dust with flour and create a cross with
the blade on top of the crust
Bake: 460°F for 15 to 20 minutes
■ ■ ■ ■
■ ■ ■ ■
register early for our upcoming classes
Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday
1 Baking with
2 Baking with
3 Baking with
4 Baking with
5 Baking with
6 home baker class 7
Holiday Baking for
Organic Flour Organic Flour Organic Flour Organic Flour Organic Flour Parent and Child
8 Naturally Leavened
12 13 14
Whole Grain Breads Whole Grain Breads Whole Grain Breads
15 16 17 18 19 20 21
22 23 24 25 26 27 28
29 30 31
Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8 9 10 11
12 Artisan I:
13 Artisan I:
14 Artisan I:
15 Artisan I:
16 Artisan I:
Baking Fundamental Baking Fundamentals Baking Fundamentals Baking Fundamentals Baking Fundamentals
19 20 21 22 23 24 25
Artisan II: Artisan II: Artisan II: Artisan II: Artisan II:
Mastering Sourdough Mastering Sourdough Mastering Sourdough Mastering Sourdough Mastering Sourdough
26 Breakfast 27 Breakfast 28 Breakfast 29 Breakfast 30 Breakfast 31
Pastry Pastry Pastry Pastry Pastry
Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday
Cakes Galore Cakes Galore Cakes Galore Cakes Galore Cakes Galore
9 Advanced 10 Advanced 11 Advanced 12 Advanced 13 Advanced 14 15
Breads:for the Breads:for the Breads:for the Breads:for the Breads: for the
Experienced Baker Experienced Baker Experienced Baker Experienced Baker Experienced Baker
16 17 18 19 20 21 22
23 24 25 26 27 28
■ ■ ■ ■
■ ■ ■ ■
How Different Dough extensibility and dough elasticity
Flours Perform, cont. are evaluated during the shaping process.
Fermentation activity in the dough and
Falling tension of the dough are judged at the
Flours Protein Ash P G P/L W Organic
Number end of the first final proof (after one hour)
Control 9 .46 87 22.3 .45 240 288 No
and at the end of the second final proof
#1 11.6 .49 117 20.1 1.45 333 296 No
#2 11.7 .57 82 24 .71 303 605 Yes
(after one hour and 30 minutes)
#3 12.7 .57 94 24.8 .76 373 279 No
#4 14.6 .56 111 24.7 .9 489 271 No Final Product Evaluation
#5 12.8 .55 112 23.3 1.02 391 284 No -Crumb
#6 11.9 .56 103 22.2 1.04 340 313 No -Color, cell structure, tenderness
#7 11.6 .45 108 20.4 1.29 309 285 No
#8 12 .5 99 21.2 1.09 313 702 No
-Color, crispiness and cuts openings
continued from page one Final Proof -Volume of the bread
One hour for half of the loaves; -Breads are compared to each other after
One hour and 30 minutes for the other half baking
Flavor Taste and After Taste
To preserve the integrity of the flour, a Baking
25 minutes at 470 degrees F Fermentation Tolerance
straight dough with no preferment was This is a very important value for the baker.
used. The product characteristics (appearance in
particular) are evaluated after the two final
Since preferments improve flour baking
proof times. If the products look the same,
performance, it is assumed that if a flour
or even better, after 30 extra minutes of
performs well with no preferment, it will
final proof time, fermentation tolerance is
perform better with preferment.
If the product looks worse after one and a
half hours of proofing compared to the
one with only one hour of proofing time,
then fermentation tolerance is judged as
B: Process In summary, if a baker is late in his
Mixing production one day and the bread goes in the
In order to duplicate the mixing method oven later than expected, product quality will
most widely used in the artisan baking vary based on the fermentation tolerance of
industry, the improved mix technique, in the flour. As we all know, delays in pro-
which the gluten structure is not fully Evaluation
duction do happen, as hard as we may try
developed, was used. Targeted dough Evaluation of the flour baking characteristics
to prevent them.This is why fermentation
temperature was 75 to 77 degrees F. was made during the whole baking process on
tolerance is so important.
the dough and—after cooling—on the bread.
First Fermentation Results of the Baking Test
One hour and 30 minutes at room Dough Evaluation
temperature (75 to 78 degrees F) Hydration:
Average hydration is 67%. However, flour
Percentage of water necessary to reach a
#5 absorbed 70% water while flour #2
Dividing specific dough consistency
took only 65% to obtain the same dough
350 grams (12 oz)
Mixing consistency. Technically, dough character-
Preshaping Dough extensibility and dough elasticity istics might not be effected. However,
-Round for batard shape were assessed at the end of the mixing shelf life might be a little bit shorter. More
-Rectangle for baguette shape time.Mixing time is also taken into consider- important, this could have a significant
-Resting time: 20 to 25 minutes ation, as it will affect bread characteristics if impact from an economical point of view,
-Shaping: Hand shaping for this test dramatically longer (crumb color and flavor). since a lower dough yield will be obtained
if the hydration is lower.
continued on page eight
■ ■ ■ ■
Intensive 14 Week
Bread & Pastry
ur new 14 week intensive courses are unique in baking
education.We offer you an opportunity you won’t find anywhere
else—the chance to begin a career in artisan baking with just 14
weeks of hands-on, intensive training from some of the most
respected instructors in the United States.
■ ■ ■
The small, hands-on classes at The San Francisco Baking “Where do I go when I need to learn more
Institute give you an uncommon opportunity to learn by doing.
Our emphasis is on teaching skills you can bring to jobs in the about baking, or to share what I know?
real world. Our progressive program concentrates on the funda-
mentals and advanced techniques of artisan baking and pastry in SFBI! I love that place - a “church” for
a fast-paced creative environment.
As the only school in the U.S. dedicated exclusively to artisan Craig Ponsford
Owner, Artisan Bakers of Sonoma, Sonoma, CA
baking, The San Francisco Baking Institute is the place President, Bread Bakers Guild of America
where better baking begins.
Who Benefits from Intensive ■ SFBI’s new long program consists of 14 weeks of intensive
14 Week Training? training, including 2 weeks spent at Institut National de la
Boulangerie Patisserie in Rouen, France.
■ Our curriculum gives you everything you need to become a
● Working bakers who want to enhance their careers and
competent and skilled professional in baking and pastry—from
salaries by making a serious commitment to learning
sanitation and equipment knowledge to actual production
methods and techniques.
● Bakeries, restaurants, hotels, and supermarkets that ■ Our 14 week program is uniquely focused and concentrated,
know the value of investing in better trained employees. with more hours of training per day than typical training
● Beginning bakers and people changing jobs who are
■ Although a standard certification is not provided, a diploma
interested in a rewarding baking career.
from SFBI acts as a powerful tool for your job search because
of SFBI’s reputation in the baking industry.
Train at Institut National de General Information
■ Tuition includes one meal per day and all expenses for
la Boulangerie Patisserie in studying in France excluding airfare.
Rouen, France for 2 weeks of ■ Tuition with provided housing: $22,300
■ Tuition without housing: $17,500
program! ■ The primary instructors are Didier Rosada, Jeff Yankellow and
Philippe Le Corre
■ Guest instructors include Volker Baumann, Craig Ponsford,
(Visit www.inbp.com for more
information about the school.) Michel Suas, and others to be announced soon.
continued on page six
■ ■ ■ ■
■ ■ ■ ■
Long Program Week Five
with Guest Instructor Volker Baumann
Volker Bauman will be our guest instructor this week to
Curriculum introduce you to the art and science of German breads.
The last two days of the week will include trips to a flour
Overview mill and flour testing facility.
■ Rye flour selection and evaluation
■ German methods of bread baking using sourdough rye
■ Use and application of the farinograph and alveograph
■ Visiting a flour mill and testing facility
The first week of training will introduce
you to SFBI and the baking profession.
Learn how to create a variety of specialty breads.You will bake French and Italian
Sanitation and proper manufacturing practices
breads, including Panettone, Pan d’Oro, and the classic Miche. Breads with the addi-
will be presented by a certified instructor.You will
tion of secondary ingredients will be practiced, including Olive Bread,Walnut Raisin,
learn general baking terminology and the basics of
and Sesame Semolina.
bakery equipment and ingredients. Proper scaling tech-
■ Using an Italian starter
niques and measuring practices will be addressed, along with baker's math.
■ Regional French and Italian specialties bread
■ Baker’s percents
■ Decorative shaping techniques
■ Sanitation and Hygiene
■ Equipment identification and usage
■ Ingredient identification and selection
American and European style breakfast pastries will be our
Week Two focus this week. Lamination will be covered in detail. You
This week, you will roll up your sleeves and start hands-on will produce Croissants, Danish, Brioche and Sweet Rolls.
practice while learning the fundamentals and science of We will conduct comparison tests to evaluate the best
the bread making process.You will begin to understand the methods and ingredients. Quick breads will also be cov-
relationship between mixing and fermentation and learn ered, including Muffins, Loaf Breads and Scones.
■ Lamination using single and double folds
the proper use of mixing equipment.The standard steps of
■ Fat selection for lamination
bread baking will be reviewed in detail. You will practice
■ Quick breads using rubbing method, creaming method, and blending method
beginner shaping techniques and begin to learn what char-
acteristics are desirable in a properly baked loaf of artisan bread.
■ Relationship between mixing and fermentation Week Eight
■ The science of bread This week, you will be immersed in the world of retail baking. Learn all about the
■ Differences between short mix, improved mix, and intensive mix classic American and rustic European pastries that are popular staples in most retail
■ Flour selection and the milling process bakeries.You will produce Cookies, Pies, Brownies,Tarts and Rustic Cakes. Students
■ Enzymes in flour will thoroughly practice hands-on with standard doughs including, Pate Brise, Pate
■ Standard steps of baking Sucre and Puff Pastry.
■ Product evaluation
“I have sent key production managers to various bread and pastry courses at SFBI. They have returned energized and
feeling more confident with their abilities to take the quality of our products even higher; able to identify and correct
problems with our processes and strengthen the knowledge of our crews, making them more productive."
JT, Semifreddi’s Bakery
Week Three Week Nine
This week, we will build upon the fundamentals of the bak- We will start this week with an intensive focus on savory pastries.You will use yeast-
ing process. Students will use preferments and evaluate ed and non-yeasted dough to prepare a variety of savory items frequently offered
the advantages and disadvantages of each type. You will in today's bakeries. Products will include, Pizza, Quiche and Various Finger Foods.
make bread using alternative varieties of flour such as The end of this week will introduce cake mixing and baking. Numerous techniques and
whole wheat and rye and learn about enriched dough products will be covered.You will practice all of the standard cake mixing techniques.
made with eggs, sugar, and fat. We will conduct an initial ■ Standard sauces and fillings used with savory pastry
testing and evaluation of each students' knowledge and ■ Marriage of cooking and baking
technical ability. ■ Cake mixing using creaming method, foaming method, chiffon method, angel food
■ Use of preferments including poolish, sponge, biga, and levain method, and modified method
■ Bread using multiple flours and grains
■ Enriched doughs and the proper mixing technique when using secondary Week Ten
ingredients such as eggs, milk, and sugar Further skills and product from the previous week to prepare classic cakes and
creams. Creams, fillings, and glazes will be covered. This week will include finishing
Week Four and decorating. At the conclusion of the week students will prepare and assemble
You will learn all about sourdough, including topics such as: starting a starter, maintain- a finished wedding cake.
ing a consistent culture, and controlling the starter to get specific characteristics.You will ■ Cake and cream mise en place and assembly
use stiff and liquid starters and compare results.The retarding process will be covered ■ Buttercream technology
and a variety of formulas will be mixed and delayed in various forms. Production plan- ■ Cooked creams and fillings
ning and scheduling will be reviewed. ■ Design and finishing of decorated cakes
■ Natural starters and the sourdough process ■ Glazing techniques
■ Starting a starter and maintaining a healthy culture
■ Advantages of using natural starters in baking
■ The effects of wild yeasts and bacteria
■ Effects of hydration, climate, and feeding schedule on the final product
■ Scheduling of real life production scenarios
6 Week Eleven
■ ■ ■ ■
■ ■ ■ ■
This week will cover petit four production and plated desserts. Students will learn the
skills for making miniature pastries and creative ways to present them to guests.They will Letter from Michel, cont.
also learn how to prepare classic and contemporary desserts that are well suited for
serving as an individual portion and the fundamentals of presenting and garnishing them
■ Production and presentation methods SFBI’s new program is a major step in providing training that
■ Flavor combination and principals of taste will match the European programs that have successfully trained
■ Sauce preparation and garnishing techniques
bakers for many years. Students who complete the program will
be competent to work in any bakery or pastry kitchen. If you are
Week Twelve and Week Thirteen
Institut National de la Boulangerie Patisserie in Rouen, France a bakery owner,we encourage you to support our new program—
and help your business—by sending one of your employees to
These two weeks will be spent at the Institut National de la Boulangerie Patisserie in
Rouen, France. All expenses are included, excluding airfare. Topics will include bread,
our classroom. The investment of time and cost will benefit
sugar and chocolate, ice cream and showpieces. Students will get a first hand look at bak- your bakery immediately and in the long-term. When you
ing and pastry in Europe through classroom study and bakery tours.This is a trip every encourage young people who show an interest to pursue a
aspiring baker should make—back to the homeland of authentic
artisan baking. Immerse yourself in the culture of the European baker; bring home a sense
career as a baker or pastry chef—and push them to reach the
of professional pride and broaden your knowledge of baking history. top levels of the profession through education and practical
experience—you are giving yourself more excited, motivated
Week Fourteen employees and helping the future of the industry as a whole.
A guest speaker will introduce you to everything you need to know about equipment selec-
tion, bakery design and layout. Students will use and demonstrate all the skills they have
learned. Four days of the week will involve student projects in preparation for a grand buf-
We are looking forward to welcoming all of our 2003 students
fet to display the products on graduation day.The last day of the week will be a graduation to our brand new facility and welcome you, as always, to keep
ceremony with a viewing of the completed work. in touch with us should you have any questions or comments.
Michel Suas, SFBI Founder
HOW TO APPLY FOR THE
14 WEEK INTENSIVE TRAINING PROGRAM
Didier Rosada began baking at the age of 15 in France,
Call 650.589.5784 and ask for an application and information where he attended a regional professional school and
apprenticed under a local baker. He was awarded the Brevet
packet to be mailed to you. Or, tear out this form and mail it to:The de Matrise from the Institut National de Boulangerie
Patisserie in Rouen, France, and in 1996 he became the
San Francisco Baking Institute 390 Swift Avenue, #13 unofficial trainer for the Baking Team USA, which took first
place in the bread category at the Coup du Monde de la
South San Francisco, CA 94080 or fax to us at 650.589.5729. Boulangerie. For the past several years, he has helped train the world champion
Baking Team USA for the Coup du Monde in Paris. Didier was most recently a
You can also visit our website for complete baking instructor at The National Baking Center in Minneapolis before joining us
as Head Instructor at SFBI.
information about our curriculum and
an on-line application. BAKING & PASTRY INSTRUCTOR
Philippe Le Corre
Philippe Le Corre studied for three years at the school run
by the famous Gaston Lenotre in Paris. After finishing first
NAME___________________________________________________ in his class, Philippe stayed on at Lenotre for three more years
as head of a production team that prepared product for the
COMPANY______________________________________________ company's upscale pastry shops. He came to the United
States in 1984 to lead the pastry and baking programs for the
ADDRESS________________________________________________ Sofitel Hotel Group’s American properties and later for the
Minneapolis Hilton. Before joining SFBI, Philippe was the baking and pastry
CITY____________________ __STATE ______ ZIP ____________ instructor at The National Baking Center since its inception in 1996.
PHONE (_____)_______________ BAKING & PASTRY INSTRUCTOR
FAX (_____)_______________ Originally from Baltimore, MD, Jeff started his culinary
career as a high school student, cooking in local restau-
EMAIL___________________________________________________ rants. In 1996, he received a degree in Culinary Arts and
Foodservice Management from Johnson & Wales
BAKING EXPERIENCE University in Providence, RI, and continued to cook in
Baltimore and Chicago for three years after graduating.
________________________________________________________ Jeff decided to pursue an interest in baking with a focus on Artisan Breads and
Viennoiserie. He worked at several bakeries in the Maryland area; completed
________________________________________________________ a 6 month internship at The National Baking Center in Minneapolis; and
worked as a baker in Minneapolis before joining SFBI as a staff instructor.
■ ■ ■ ■
■ ■ ■ ■
How Different All the bread had a very similar volume except for flour #2,
Flours Perform, cont. which produced bread with a noticeably lower volume.
continued from page four
Very good fermentation tolerance with flours #1, #3, #4, #7
and #8. Dough # 5 was not as good, however the breads were
still acceptable. Flour #2 had a poor fermentation tolerance
Dough Characteristics At Mixing (poor appearance of the bread after one and a half-hour of final
All of the flours we tested provided dough with a good proof).
balance between extensibility and elasticity. This was
somewhat expected since the protein level is very similar. Flavor
Only dough # 4 showed a slight lack of extensibility Flavor is a very subjective topic, so we evaluated with a panel
(stronger dough) at the end of the mixing. Mixing times were very rather than just one person.The results were as follows:
similar for all the dough, except for dough #4, which required a
longer mixing to reach the same gluten development. Dough #2 # 1: Complex, more round flavor.The preferred flavor for all
showed some stickiness at the end of mixing. the bread tasted
# 2:Very bitter flavor.The least preferred flavor
Dough Characteristics at Shaping # 3: Good overall but with an off taste in the crust
Flours #1, #3 and #5 had a good balance between extensibility # 4: Slightly bitter taste in the crust
and elasticity. This allowed for very easy shaping. Dough #2 # 5: Good overall but neutral taste
and #4 were a bit too extensible and tended to be porous and # 6: Good overall
sticky.This could be the sign of some degradation of the gluten # 7: Good overall
as fermentation progresses (when gluten degrades, some pro- # 8: Good overall
teins liberate water that migrates to the surface of the dough,
increasing its stickiness) In Conclusion
The results of this simple test show how bread characteristics
Crumb Characteristics may be affected depending on the flour that we use, even if the
Flour #1 provided a crumb with the best creamy color. # 4, dough characteristics are very similar.
#5, #6 and #7 were less creamy but still acceptable, while # 8
was so creamy that it almost looked artificial. Secondly, all of the dough was made with no preferment.
Certainly, baking performances would have been improved by
Crumb of the bread made with flour #3 was on the grayish involving some pre-fermentation in the process. But, as
side (higher ash content) and #2 was on the green side. Both mentioned earlier, if the flour performs well with no preferment,
of these flours had an inferior color pattern compared to #1. it will perform even better when using one. Finally, even if the
numbers look the same (or are very close) on the specification
Cell structure of the crumb was on the tight side for all of the sheet, bread characteristics such as crumb, crust, volume and
breads, but this is normal for this type of baking process. flavor may be very different.This is why a baking test remains the
However, flour #2 had very tight and very dense crumb. best way to assess flour baking performance.
Crumb of bread #2 was not as tender but very rubbery. Crust
color and crispiness were very similar in all of the bread. To confirm the result of our tests made here at the SFBI—and get
However, we noticed a darker crust color on breads made with more precise information about the flour baking performances—
flour #4. Cut openings were nice on all the breads, except on the we sent the same flour samples to Eurogerm, a French company
ones made with flour #2, where cuts didn’t open as much. specializing in cereal works such as wheat and flour testing,
dough conditioners and enzyme technology. Our goals included
comparing the performances of the U.S. flours with a “control
flour” from France.
The method used for the testing is a standard flour testing pro-
cedure used in France. This method is similar to the one
described earlier in this article. However, a main difference must
be noted: the mixing process is an intensive mix (gluten fully
developed) and the first fermentation time is only 20 minutes.
The reason behind the use of this method in France is to avoid
helping the flour by allowing some long fermentation time
after mixing that would naturally improve strength and fer-
continued on page nine
■ ■ ■ ■
■ ■ ■ ■
Flours Perform, cont.
continued from page eight
A more complete flavor assessment was also performed after
the baking of the bread using very precise parameters (describing
different flavor profile like nutty taste, toasted taste, yeasted
taste, fruity taste.)
Eurogerm developed this flavor evaluation procedure after The most noticeable difference could be in the strength of the
intensive research and the method is now recognized by most dough. Due to higher protein content, U.S. flours produce, in
of the French baking industry. general, stronger dough.The baker could improve this by using
autolyse in his process or preferment with a liquid consistency
Results from Eurogerm like poolish or liquid sourdough, since their high water content
favors the proteolytic activity of the flour.
On the Dough Side
Results were very similar to the SFBI internal test. However, The other difference is in the crispiness. Not much could be
French flour received a better note on dough extensibility at done during the baking process to improve this problem.
the shaping and fermentation tolerance compared to the Ascorbic acid is known to dry out the crust and very slightly
samples from U.S. improve crispiness. However, its use must be carefully moni-
tored. An excess of ascorbic acid will definitively create strong
On the Bread Side dough very difficult to work with.
This is where the results of the test are the most interesting. In
terms of volume, all the U.S. flours except sample #2 had a Finally, the samples of the same flour sold in different areas of
superior volume in the final product. the U.S. produced bread with similar characteristics.The minor
differences between them could be explained by the availability
Crust crispiness was described as “soft” for all the American of different classes of wheat within the area where the flour is
flour except for sample # 8. The control was judged as crispy. milled. For example, the West Coast sample generated dough
with a noticeable lack of extensibility. This is due to the
The crust color was evaluated as too excessive for all U.S. samples.
stronger winter wheat largely available in this area and widely
This may be explained by the higher protein content—generating
used by the milling industry.
a stronger Maillard reaction during baking.
Flavor was evaluated using two parameters: aroma and taste.The
main aroma found in samples from France and U.S. samples #1,
In the last five to seven years, because
#4, #5, #6, #7 and #8 was described as “beurre noisette” or of better communication between
buttery-nutty aroma. Aroma from sample # 2 was qualified as
“toasted-bitter.” miller and baker, the artisan baker has
The preponderant taste was also described as “beurre noisette”
much more choice regarding flour
for sample # 1, #6, #7 and #8. Flavor from samples # 3, #4, selection.
and #5 was judged as “neutral” while # 2 was described as
In the last five to seven years, because of better communication
Conclusion between miller and baker, the artisan baker has much more
choice regarding flour selection. Nowadays, some good flours for
Some interesting conclusions can be made from these tests.
Artisan Baking are available in the United States. The skill of a
Again, our goal was not really to compare French and U.S.
baker who understands how to work and transform this flour
flours, but the results have shown that despite some minor differ-
into bread has a tremendous impact on the final product quality.
ence in the dough characteristics (lack of extensibility), some U.S.
flours can produce quality breads. Sample # 8, for example, had On the other hand, our tests have demonstrated that despite the
the same notation compared to the French control flour. fact that some flours are marketed as “Artisan Flour,” their baking
performances don’t really live up to this statement.
However, some flour sold as flour for Artisan Baking in U.S.
wouldn’t even be considered as bread flour in France (sample Regardless of what is on the bag or the specification sheet, a
# 2), due to its lack of baking quality (on the dough side and baker should always perform a quick baking test—using a
final product appearance). standardized method or his favorite formula—to see if the
selected flour will be providing optimum performance during
the baking process. 9
■ ■ ■ ■
■ ■ ■ ■
New! CLASS SCHEDULE 2003
Artisan I and II: The Essentials of Artisan Baking Series
“A good balance between theory
Our most popular workshops, Artisan I and Artisan II attract students
from around the country who share a desire to learn the fundamentals
and hands-on.” SFBI Student
and artistry of authentic artisan bread baking. Both novices and seasoned
professionals tell us that they leave our workshops better bakers than when
they arrived! The courses can be taken separately or consecutively. During Advanced Breads: Techniques and Experimentation
each five day session, you learn and practice core baking processes and tech- for the Experienced Baker
niques you need to become a skilled, knowledgeable baker. Our emphasis Five Day Course with Didier Rosada; $950 (includes lunch)
is on hands-on learning; we deliberately keep our class sizes small to allow This newly adapted version of Advanced Artisan Breads is designed for
for personal instruction and experimentation.As the only school in the U.S. experienced bakers interested in refining their skills and deepening their
dedicated exclusively to artisan baking, we believe our overall knowledge to become even better at their craft. During this
continuing education courses offer you an exceptional experience in an envi- illuminating workshop for those who love their profession, you will learn
ronment where baking never takes a back seat to other culinary learning. about and practice a variety of interesting breads using advanced methods.
You will experiment with ways to fit new breads into an existing product
Artisan I: Baking Fundamentals line with fresh techniques such as sourdough to make sweet breads and
Five Day Course with Didier Rosada; $950 (includes lunch) miche using high ash flour and 230% (!) starter.Whole grain breads will be
Sign up for both Artisan I and Artisan II and save 10% off the second produced using whole grain starters and no white flour.You will work with
class - Total price: $1,805 difficult flours such as rye and spelt. Retarding techniques will be demon-
As a student in Artisan I, you will become familiar with the terms “short mix,” strated with Baguettes and Ciabatta—retarded before shaping, and Whole
“improved mix” and “intensive mix” while learning what types of flour you Wheat —retarded after shaping. Because this more advanced class is not
should be using and the proper mixing techniques for every bread imaginable. designed for beginning bakers, students need to have taken Artisan I and II
Through demonstration and discussion, you will learn the relationship between or have extensive experience and a thorough understanding of the baking
mixing and fermentation;how the profile of bread changes when you add an addi- process, including science and terminology. Experienced bakers will be
tional ingredient such as butter or sugar; overall knowledge about the most inspired by the newfound understanding and marketable skills they take
common preferments used in bakeries today;and how to use baker's math,along away from this seminar!
with much more.We use the classic baguette to teach the fundamentals,but you 2003 Schedule:
will also learn to make Rye Bread, Whole Wheat Bread, Multigrain Bread, Pan February 10 - February 14
Bread and Braided Egg Bread.The skills you learn in this class are directly applica- August 11- August 15
ble for a position in a professional bakery or for a seri-
ous home baker.When you finish this class, you will be Breakfast Pastry
able to write recipes instead of following them! Limited Five Day Course with Philippe Le Corre;
to 12 to allow for personal instruction, spots fills up $950 (includes lunch)
quickly so reserve early. Be sure to consider our dates In this essential class for the aspiring pastry chef, you
for the Artisan II workshop, scheduled to allow you 2 will learn how to create beautiful and delicious
consecutive weeks of intensive training. breakfast pastries to enhance your product line and
2003 Schedule: excite your customers! Expert pastry chef Philippe
January 13 - January 17 Le Corre will introduce you to ingredients selection,
March 10 - March 14 fermentation options and lamination techniques in a
June 9 - June 13 hands-on environment with lots of opportunity for
July 28 - August 1 practice and personal instruction. Students will learn
October 20 - October 24 how to use one dough to create multiple products -
croissant dough will be used to make classic crois-
Artisan II: Mastering Sourdough sants, chocolate croissants and almond croissants.
Five Day Course with Didier Rosada; $950 (includes lunch); Sign up for Different shaping techniques will be demonstrated
both Artisan I and Artisan II and save 10% off the second class - Total price: for Danish to allow you to maximize the selection and variety from one
$1,805 dough.You will learn the classic technique for making Brioche and discov-
Building on the the skills you gained in Artisan I,Artisan II takes you full speed er how to use it for individual Brioche a Tete and raisin rolls. Find out how
ahead into the world of sourdough bread.To become a truly skilled baker, you a sweet roll dough can be used to make a variety of specialties, including
must learn how to control sourdough and not let the sourdough control you! cinnamon rolls and sticky buns. In addition to yeasted treats, Philippe will
Unravel the complex world of wild yeast and bacteria; start your own sour- teach you how to make not just one, but four different kinds of puff pas-
dough starter; adjust the feeding schedule and take your own version of the try! They include Traditional French, Inverse, Blitz and Italian. See the dif-
starter home. Experiment with different styles of starters and fermentation. ferences in each and how they can be used for different items. You will
The extensive hands-on portion of this 5-day workshop includes sourdough make creams that complement Croissants, Danish and rich yeasted dough,
breads made with liquid and stiff starters, Olive Bread, Raisin Bread, Ciabatta learn about preferments selection and bakers percentage calculation and
with a poolish and many other favorites.If you are serious about becoming a bet- leave the class with a whole new set of skills and techniques for produc-
ter baker, this is a class that you do not want to miss! We encourage you to ing classic breakfast pastries.
take Artisan I before enrolling in Artisan II unless you already have a thorough 2003 Schedule:
understanding of baking fundamentals. January 27 - January 31
2003 Schedule: July 14 - July 18
January 20 - January 24
March 17 - March 21
June 16 - June 20 “Didier is a masterful teacher-
August 4 - August 8
October 27 - October 31 patient and knowledgeable.”
10 SFBI Student
■ ■ ■ ■
■ ■ ■ ■ ■
Chocolate Cakes Galore
Five Day Course
with Philippe Le Corre;
New! CLASS SCHEDULE 2003
$950 (includes lunch)
Still the most popular item in American Also learn about proofing the same products
bakeries, Chocolate Cakes are a necessary before they go in the freezer and baking them
staple for the modern baker and a dessert that directly out of the freezer. The class will demon-
lends itself to endless variations. In this work- strate techniques for par baking that will allow you
shop, you will learn all the secrets for making to partially bake breads, freeze them and finish
mouth-watering and beautiful chocolate cakes them after freezing. It is not as simple as it sounds,
that will keep your customers coming back for but our instructors will show you what character-
more! Practice hands-on as you explore the istics to look for before removing the bread from
many varieties of chocolates you can use - the oven and what precautions to take to ensure
white, dark and milk chocolates - and become Philippe will introduce you to cake mixing tech- that the baked-off loaf is as good as a loaf that
familiar with the complex textures and flavors nology for sponge cake, chiffons, creaming and never hit the freezer. This class is recommended
of this classic favorite.Try your hand at an array foaming and will show you how to make a wide for experienced baking professionals who are
of frosting and decorating techniques and learn variety of creams such as Chiboust, Mousseline interested in these specific techniques. This class
how to prepare dazzling presentations that will and Buttercreams. During the significant hands- will not cover the fundamental baking process and
tempt and satisfy. on portion of the class, you will create a wide all information will be targeted for frozen dough
2003 Schedule: variety of beautiful cakes including Bittersweet and par baked breads.
February 3 - February 7 Mousse Cake, Strawberry Fraisier, St. Honore 2003 Schedule:
and Hazelnut Nougatine Cake. Philippe will August 18 - August 22
Petit Fours and Upscale Cookies start with the basics, so everyone is welcome,
Five Day Course with Philippe Le Corre; with or without experience. Magnificent Mousse Cakes
$950 (includes lunch) 2003 Schedule: Five Day Course with Phillippe LeCorre;
Become an expert in the profitable art of July 7- July 11 $950 (includes lunch)
creating upscale cookies and petit fours. Join us October 13 - October 17 Attain a new level of confidence in your pastry
for this intensive hands-on exploration of skills when you take this more advanced class
production and decorating techniques, presen- The Art & Science of German Breads that will immerse you in the art of high-end
tation skills and packaging of small scale Five Day Course with Volker Baumann; mousse cakes and petit fours. Mousse cakes
delicacies with large scale profits! Attract more $950 (includes lunch) have long been a staple in pastry shops around
hotel/catering business, or increase your value Volker Baumann, Certified Master Baker, is a the world, but getting them perfect is not so
as a baker to the hospitality industry with the popular SFBI visiting instructor who has been easy. Philippe will demonstrate a variety of tech-
skills you acquire in this creative and exciting active in the North American baking industry niques for achieving perfection with your
workshop. Phillippe will focus on a wide variety for 32 years. The author of an industry favorite, mousse cakes, using chocolate, fruits and assembly
of products from the traditional to the nouveau. “Baking, The Art and Science,” Volker currently methods to create masterpieces that will dazzle
2003 Schedule: teaches new bakers at the Southern Alberta any pastry lover.Through hands-on training you
March 17 - March 21 Institute of Technology in Canada. In this hands- will get a first hand look at how using
on class you will learn about many German certain methods and ingredients will allow you
Rustic Pastries bread varieties including Black Forest Rye, to alter the texture of the mousse to get the
Five Day Course with Philippe LeCorre Landbrot, Frankonia Rye, Kommisbrot and most desirable result. You will learn how to
$950 (includes lunch) much more. Volker will show you uncompro- make cakes that taste great and look world-
Rustic pastries are more popular then ever mising techniques for creating these often chal- class with advanced decorating techniques using
and can help you expand your product line lenging, always rewarding breads, while expanding chocolate decorations and glazes.You will learn
in delicious and appealing ways that your your overall knowledge of artisan bread baking. to assemble efficiently and decorate masterfully
customers will appreciate! In this hands-on 2003 Schedule: for presentation that will impress and delight.
workshop, Philippe will teach you how to July 21 - July 25 2003 Schedule:
create delicious and beautiful rustic pastries August 25 - August 29
to add interest and profit to your bakery’s New! Par Baked Breads
selection.You will experiment with a variety and Frozen Dough Techniques
of choices, including traditional pastry items Five Day Course with Didier Rosada and Coming Next Fall!
from Europe - particularly Italy and France. Roy Chung of US Wheat Associates; with Philippe Le Corre ...
2003 Schedule: $950 (includes lunch)
Holiday Breads & Pastries
March 24 - March 28 Par baked breads and frozen dough are becoming
a more popular and profitable choice for the mod-
December 1 - December 5
October 6 - October 10
ern bakery.This timely workshop with SFBI Head See our next newsletter, or visit our
Cakes and Creams Instructor Didier Rosada and special guest Roy
Five Day Course with Philippe Le Corre; Chung—a full-time consultant in Asia for U.S. website, for more details.
$950 (includes lunch) Wheat Associates—will show you how you can
If you are interested in building a foundation boost sales in your bakery by starting a par baked
based on classic European pastry techniques or or frozen dough line. Learn about the techniques,
refining the skills you already have, this class is ingredients and equipment you need to introduce
for you. Our comprehensive cakes and creams a new, innovative alternative to your customers.
workshop with expert pastry chef Philippe Le Everything changes after freezing—from the activity
Corre will add new layers of competence to of the yeast to the structure of the gluten. This
your skills. Instead of just learning recipes you class will teach you what you have to do to pre-
will learn techniques. Philippe will teach you serve the quality of raw dough in the freezer so
how to prepare the basic cakes and fillings used that it can be baked into a first class bakery item.
in French pastry and then teach you how they Learn the techniques for freezing breads and crois-
can be assembled and cross-utilized to create a sants that can be taken from the freezer to the
number of finished cakes, just as you would do oven with and without proofing.
in production kitchen.
■ ■ ■ ■
■ ■ ■ ■
New 14-Week Training Program ... Plus our New Classes for 2003!
94080 SOUTH SAN FRANCISCO, CA
SWIFT AVENUE, #13 390
THE SAN FRANCISCO BAKING INSTITUTE
PERMIT NO. 655
SO. SAN FRANCISCO, CA
IN ADDITION TO ARTISAN BAKING CLASSES AND SEMINARS, SFBI
OFFERS CONSULTING SERVICES TAILORED TO YOUR SPECIFIC NEEDS: THE BREAD PROJECT
The Bread Project is a non-profit group with an
B A K E RY C O N S U LT I N G independent board of directors. The organization’s
● Bakery Design and Layout goal is to provide comprehensive training to people
interested in the baking trade. The SFBI and The
● Assessing equipment requirements
Bread Project have created an alliance that we hope
● Technical assistance will greatly benefit both prospective bakers and the
● Production Management
baking industry. We are entering our second year
with this project.
● On-site training in European baking techniques
Educational programs that focus on baking are prohibitively
● Artisan bread and pastry recipes
expensive for many people.We hope that this project will
become a model for the education and training of many
generations of future bakers. Currently the program will
FORMULA RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT
be funded through a variety of grants.The goal is to create
● Developing signature products an industry-sponsored fund that will give scholarships to
● Testing and comparing state of the art baking equipment
the students, freeing The Bread Project from continual
fund-raising. We believe that change has to happen
● Troubleshooting formulation/production problems regarding the training of our future bakers. SFBI is proud
● Training small groups to be taking a first step!
● Ingredient analysis
L O O K W H AT ’ S RISING...
● New 14-Week Training Prog ram for Professional Baker s ● New 2003 Class Calendar s
● Baking Perfor mance of Flour - Compar ison Test ● Recipe and Baker’s Tip
■ ■ ■ ■