Types of Stitches used in Hand Sewing - Plain Stitch Sewing Stitches Stitches are very important in dressmaking. There are hand stitches and machine stitches or overlocker. Some stitches are used to temporarily hold fabrics together such as tacking, before a permanent stitch is used to finish the garment. The temporary stitch can be removed after sewing on the permanent stitch. Temporary stitches are also used to transfer pattern markings on fabrics, joining hems and using for ends of elastics. There are two types of stitches used in hand sewing: ornamental stitches and plain stitches. The types of stitches that can be used in plain stitches are: Basting, slip stitch, stitching, hemming, blind stitch, gathering, overcasting, overhanding, darning, buttonhole stitch, running stitch and back stitch. For a finished garment to have a fresh look, it must have undergone a good sewing, well ironed, well stitched or finished ends, hems and corners and the threads should hold all the clothes together. Plain / Hand Sewing Stitches Photo a Running; b Running and back; c Half back; d Back stitch. Plain Sewing Stitches Basting / Tacking This is a temporary sewing stitch that is used to hold clothes / fabrics in place as you put in permanent stitches. Tacking can be used on garment seams, hems or where you want to hold two pieces of fabrics temporarily together. In tacking or basting hems, do not tack the edge, but very near it. Tack near the line where you want to stitch. How to Mark Fabrics For Sewing - Tailor Tacking • Mark fabrics for sewing using tailor tacks Stitches Used In Tacking / Basting Photo BASTING STITCHES: a Even; b Uneven; c For wiry fabrics; d Tacking; e Overcasting; f Double or tailor overcasting. Stitching Stitching is also referred to as back stitch. It works like machine stitch. It is used for seaming. It is done by taking a stitch from right to left. On the upper side of the clothe you take a stitch backward and on underside you take a long stitch forward. The stitches meet on the top just like in machine stitch. Gathering Gathering is done by taking a bunch of fabric and using running stitch or loose machine stitch on the fabric and then pulling the threads so that the fabric gathers as it reduces in size to fit or for designing ruffled effect. Overcast Stitch Overcast stitch is the handstitch that is used to neaten raw edges of fabrics. It is a slanting stitch used to keep raw edges from raveling. Remember to always trim the fabric edges before using overcast stitch. Overcasting is to take loose stitches over raw edges of clothes from right to left in order to keep it from raveling before machine stitching the fabric. Slip Stitch This type of stitch is used to attach a folded edge to another layer of fabric by taking long stitch through it. Blindstitch Blindstitch is done in such a way that it is invisible on the right side of the fabric. To use a blindstitch on a hem, you will have to turn back the hem's edge and stitch or hem with a single stitch that will not show on either side. Slip stitch is used as a long stitch and blind stitch on the hem. Hemming A hem is formed when you turn over the edge of a piece of fabric twice so that there is a fold and you can then sew this fold together. It is best to trim the edge of the clothes before you turn the hem. Darning Stitch Darning is done by mending holes or repairing clothe by reweaving threads into the torn holes. You should not knot the thread, only leave a short end of thread and cut it when you have finished mending the clothe hole. This kind of plain stitch can be used on stockings and other clothes such as knit fabrics. Overhanding Stitch Overhand stitch is used to sew closely over two edges of fabrics from right to left and from left to right. Overhand stitch can be used to sew bands on gathers. Backstitch Backstitch is used mainly for seaming and outlining. It is a handstitch that uses double stitch on the wrong side. Back stitch is used to make stitches that follow one another without leaving any space. This is done by placing the needle on the last stitch and bringing it out, and starting all over again, that is, keep putting the needle on the last stitch and bringing it out Running Stitch Running stitch is a bit like basting stitch. It is used to stitch seams that do not need great strength. Running stitch is a quick way to join tucking, seams or gathers in fabrics, although it is not as strong as backstitch. How to Position Hand in Running Stitch Buttonhole Stitch Buttonhole stitch is used to neaten and give more strength to the buttonhole raw edges.