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                                                                                                                                                                                                                FASHION:                                         BEAUTY: Value




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                                                                                                                                                                                                              Models and                Z Zegna      For             cosmetics           NEWS:
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        moving       more,        brand Jane &     Cavalli inks
                                                                                                                                                                                                              athletes
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        runway                                    new licensing
                                                                                                                                                                                                              behaving
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        show to      see         Company files
                                                                                                                                                                                                              badly,                                            for Chapter 11,      deal with
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Milan,       WWD.com.                          Ittierre,
                                                                                                                                                                                                              page 5.                                                 page 3.




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        page 9.                                      page 2.




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                                                                                                                                                                                                    WWDTUESDAY
                                                                                                                                                                                                           Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • April 7, 2009 • $3.00




                                                                                                                                                                                                      Ready-to-Wear/Textiles




                                                                                                                                                                                               Shock Value
                                                                                                                                                                                                At the moment, fun, colorful, rich looks have even
                                                                                                                                                                                                more appeal than straight-up luxe. Take furs, for
                                                                                                                                                                                                instance, in all those easy shapes and brazen
                                                                                                                                                                                                neon shades. Here, Michael Kors’ shocking pink
                                                                                                                                                                                                shredded fox coat worn with a Kors turtleneck
                                                                                                                                                                                                and belt. For more furs, see pages 6 and 7.




                                                                                                                                                                                           Powers of Persuasion:
PhOTO BY ThOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: JULES/ONE; hAIR BY DANIELLE IRENE FOR ARTISTSBYTIMOThYPRIANO; MAKEUP BY MIZU FOR SUSAN PRICE; FAShION ASSISTANT: KAYLA PASSONS; STYLED BY BOBBI qUEEN




                                                                                                                                                                                           Europe’s Luxury Brands
                                                                                                                                                                                           Try the Personal Touch
                                                                                                                                                                                           By Miles Socha
                                                                                                                                                                                           With even wealthy consumers skittish about
                                                                                                                                                                                           spending during the financial crisis, Europe’s
                                                                                                                                                                                           luxury players are fast becoming expert
                                                                                                                                                                                           event planners.
                                                                                                                                                                                              Leveraging their store networks and
                                                                                                                                                                                           customer databases, brands are plotting more
                                                                                                                                                                                           frequent and varied in-store efforts to boost
                                                                                                                                                                                           traffic and coax open pocketbooks.
                                                                                                                                                                                              Tactics range from standard trunk shows
                                                                                                                                                                                           and giveaways to temporary stores and
                                                                                                                                                                                           limited edition products to break through what
                                                                                                                                                                                           executives describe as a psychological barrier
                                                                                                                                                                                           to discretionary spending.
                                                                                                                                                                                              “There are still people with money, but we
                                                                                                                                                                                           have to talk to them differently,” said Valérie
                                                                                                                                                                                           Hermann, chief executive officer at Yves Saint
                                                                                                                                                                                           Laurent. “It’s about having a relationship
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   See Europe’s, Page 8
2   WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          WWD.COM


Just Cavalli Extends License With Ittierre
By Andrew Roberts
MILAN — Roberto Cavalli has signed a new
five-year license with Ittierre SpA for his Just
Cavalli label.
                                                        equivalent of Chapter 11 bankruptcy protec-
                                                        tion in February after running out of cash. Just
                                                        Cavalli is the biggest license for Isernia, Molise,
                                                        Italy-based Ittierre, generating 2007 revenues of
                                                        about 240 million euros, or $329 million, and is
                                                                                                                                               WWDTUESDay                                    FASHION
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Ready-to-Wear/Textiles

   The deal, confirming a report in WWD on
Friday, covers production and distribution for
                                                        highly profitable. Ittierre’s other licenses include
                                                        C’N’C Costume National, Galliano, VJC Versace
                                                                                                                                                                                         6 Designersa are showing their tossesside this sea-
                                                                                                                                                                                           son with neon palette that
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        bright
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               subtle luxury
Just Cavalli men’s and women’s apparel, shoes           and Versace Sport. Ittierre employs 772 people.                                                                                      to the winds of winter.
and accessories. It runs through the fall-winter            “The agreement with Cavalli confirms
2014 collections and cancels outstanding finan-         Ittierre’s great international value and opera-                                                                                      GENERAL
cial obligations tied to the previous agreement,        tional capability,” said Ittierre’s administrators,
both parties said Monday. The contract is subject       Andrea Ciccoli, Stanislao Chimenti, and Roberto                                                                                 1 With evenin the financial crisis,skittish about
                                                                                                                                                                                          spending
                                                                                                                                                                                                    wealthy consumers
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Europe’s luxury
to government and court approval.                       Spada. “We are very pleased to be able to renew                                                                                      players are becoming expert event planners.
   The renewal marks a U-turn for Cavalli,              the partnership with a brand of such enormous
who blamed Ittierre for having to call off Just         global renown, great commercial success and de-                                                                                  2 Uniqlo is opening its first store in Singapore on
                                                                                                                                                                                           Thursday in the suburban Tampines district, the
Cavalli’s fall-winter runway show in February,          velopment potential as Just Cavalli. In moments
citing delays, substandard production and 20            like the present, the market needs the positive                                                                                      first of eight planned for the city-state.
                                                        energy and creativity that the designer and the
million euros, or $26.5 million, in unpaid roy-
alties. At the time, Cavalli said he was talking        maison have always been able to represent.”                                                                                      3 Louis Vuitton,foundationcreating ais giving a pre-
                                                                                                                                                                                           designed art
                                                                                                                                                                                                          which is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    in Paris,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Frank Gehry-
to other potential partners, including Renzo                Sources credited Ittierre’s de facto chief ex-                                                                                   view of its treasures at a Hong Kong exhibition.
Rosso’s Staff International, and could even take        ecutive officer Ciccoli, a former partner at con-
Just Cavalli’s production in-house. Cavalli’s re-       sultancy firm Bain & Co., with convincing Cavalli                                                                               9 TEXTILES: fabric firms to cut prices in Hong Kong
                                                                                                                                                                                          pressured
                                                                                                                                                                                                    Buyers at Interstoff Asia
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                and allow
marks led Ittierre to threaten legal action.            that Ittierre was best-placed to build Just Cavalli
   Dollar figures were converted at average ex-         globally. Just Cavalli generates an estimated                                                                                        smaller orders given the global recession.
change rates for the periods to which they refer.       70 percent of revenue in Italy and the rest of
                                                                                                                                                                                     10 their carbon footprints, conservefor ways andlower
                                                                                                                                                                                        GREEN: Companies are looking              to




                                                                                                                                                                                 s
   Cavalli said Monday his young line had been          Europe. The new deal includes a worldwide                                                                                                                          energy
suffering from “just a bit of a fever” and “sea-        marketing and communications plan.                                                                                                   identify ethical sourcing partners.
sonal ills” and would return to the runway with             The license extension is the second major
the spring-summer 2010 collections.
   “Now [Just Cavalli] is very healthy and very
                                                        achievement for the administrators, who se-
                                                        cured a 30 million euro, or $39.7 million, line
                                                                                                                                                                                     14 FINANCIAL:13.4 percent pay cut last year, earning
                                                                                                                                                                                        Inc., took a
                                                                                                                                                                                                     William McComb, ceo of Liz Claiborne

strong,” he said. “It will very much upset those        of credit from five Italian banks at the end of                                                                                      compensation of $5.5 million.
who were hoping for the worse.”                         February, allowing Ittierre to restart its engines
   The deal is expected to strengthen Cavalli’s         and continue day-to-day operations.                                                                                                  EYE
position in negotiations with Clessidra SGR SpA.
He is in talks with the private equity firm to sell
                                                            With Cavalli on board, the administrators are
                                                        expected to step up efforts to renew agreements
                                                                                                                            A look from                                                  4 The Ronson clanon the Sunsetboisterous bashof
                                                                                                                                                                                           at Bar Marmont
                                                                                                                                                                                                           headlined a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Strip in honor
                                                                                                                            Loomstate for
a 20 percent stake in his namesake fashion com-         with other licensors before addressing Ittierre’s                                                                                    Charlotte Ronson’s new fashion line.
                                                                                                                            Barneys Green.
pany. The designer met representatives from the         parent company, IT Holding SpA.
fund last Tuesday, when they laid out what he               IT Holding, which owns the Gianfranco Ferré,
described as an “interesting plan.”                     Malo and Extè brands, followed its production                                         Classified Advertisements.................................................................................................15
   In addition, the new pact signals a turn-            and licensing unit into administration at the end                                     To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is
ing point for Ittierre, which filed for the Italian     of February.                                                                          firsTname.lasTname@fairchildpub.com, using The individual’s name.
                                                                                                                                              WWD IS A ReGISteReD tRADeMARK oF ADVANCe MAGAZINe PUBLISHeRS INC. CoPYRIGHt ©2009
                                                                                                                                                                            .
                                                                                                                                              FAIRCHILD FASHIoN GRoUP ALL RIGHtS ReSeRVeD. PRINteD IN tHe U.S.A.



Uniqlo Enters Southeast Asia
                                                                                                                                              VOLUME 197, NO. 72. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with
                                                                                                                                              one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June
                                                                                                                                              and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division
                                                                                                                                              of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services
                                                                                                                                              provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W.
                                                                                                                                              Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage
By Ong Soh Chin                                         here. The Japanese company holds 51 percent                                           paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503.
                                                        of Uniqlo’s Singapore operations, and Wing Tai                                        Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian
                                                                                                                                              addresses to: P Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 PoStMASteR: SeND ADDReSS CHANGeS
                                                                                                                                                               .O.
SINGAPORE — Uniqlo is expanding its global reach.       Retail controls 49 percent.                                                                                         .o.
                                                                                                                                              to WoMeN’S WeAR DAILY, P Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FoR SUBSCRIPtIoNS, ADDReSS
    The Japanese brand will open its first store           “The Singapore stores will be Uniqlo’s first in                                    CHANGeS, ADJUStMeNtS, oR BACK ISSUe INQUIRIeS: Please write to WWD, P Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                .O.
here on Thursday. The 8,700-square-foot unit            a tropical country. And therefore…will be a good                                      91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed
                                                                                                                                              on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all
is in Tampines, a suburban residential district         way for Uniqlo to find out more about the buy-                                        editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017.
in the Eastern part of the island. It’s the first of    ing patterns and habits of consumers in hotter                                        For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online
eight Uniqlo stores planned for the city state. A       climates,’’ Yanai said.                                                               at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com.
                                                                                                                                              Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services
                                                                                          This would facili-                                  that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please
                                                                                       tate Uniqlo’s eventual                                                .O.
                                                                                                                                              advise us at P Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT
                                                       For more on Uniqlo, expansion into India                                               RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS,

                                                       see WWD.com.                    and the Middle East,
                                                                                       regions where it has
                                                                                                                                              UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR
                                                                                                                                              ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER
                                                                                                                                              MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY
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                                                                                       formula of high-qual-                                  ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.



                                                                                                                                    DAILY “There are still people
                                                                                       ity yet reasonably
                                                                                       priced candy-colored
                                                                                       basics, he said.
                                                                                          Uniqlo also plans a
                                                                                       move into Malaysia.
                                                                                          “Our focus now for
                                                                                                                                     QUote with money, but we have
                                                                                                                                              to talk to them differently.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               ”
                                                                                       the next three years
                                                                                       will be Singapore be-
                                                                                       fore we think of open-
                                                                                       ing in other countries                                                                                    — Valérie Hermann, chief executive officer,
                                                                                       [in Southeast Asia],”                                                                                                 Yves Saint Laurent. Page one.
                                                                                       said Satoshi Onoguchi,
                                                                            Uniqlo’s Uniqlo’s Singapore
                                                                          Singapore managing director.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   TODAY ON


                                                                                                                                                                                                                   WWD
                                                                               unit.      Executives seemed
                                                                                       unfazed by the global
10,000-square-foot space is set for August at the       economic crisis. “What we have always provided
Orchard Ion, a luxury mall set to take a prime          is sensibly priced clothing,” said Albert Chew,
spot on Singapore’s premier shopping street.            co-managing director of Uniqlo Singapore. “And
    Six more stores are planned in the next three       in a recession, we believe even more customers
years with the third one to be announced once           will be focusing on value for their money.’’
negotiations are completed.                                The brand, which recently hired German de-
    Singapore is Uniqlo’s first Southeast Asian
outlet. It was picked as a launchpad into the
region because of its strategic location and its
                                                        signer Jil Sander to oversee its men’s and wom-
                                                        en’s apparel collections, has 836 stores in Japan
                                                        as well as the U.S., U.K., France, China, Hong
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          .com
reputation as a retail hub.                             Kong and South Korea.                                                                                                                                                • More photos from the
    “We want to be number one in every country             The Singapore stores will carry the brand’s fa-                                                                                                             Charlotte Ronson-J.C. Penney
we enter,” Tadashi Yanai, chairman, president           mous UT T-shirts — a range of limited edition de-                                                                                                                   party and the Manhattan
and chief executive officer of Uniqlo parent Fast       signer Ts — as well as its popular denim range.
                                                                                                                 PHoTo By y STEFANIE KEENAN




Retailing Co. Ltd., said at a news conference              Sander’s first collection for Uniqlo, which will be                                                                                                            fete for artist Zeng Fanzhi
here Monday. “Asia is a priority for us because         released in September, will be sold in Singapore.                                                                                                                        • Additional images
it is a huge market, even more so when one in-             “We will stock the Singapore stores with al-                                                                                                                        from the Louis Vuitton
cludes China and India, which have the largest          most everything that is available in our Japan
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Hong Kong exhibit
populations. If we become number one there, we          stores,” Onoguchi said. “The only difference is                                                                       Sting at Charlotte
would be number one in the world.’’                     that we will probably bring in a smaller propor-                                                                         Ronson’s party.                             • Global breaking news
    Fast Retailing has linked with a local partner      tion of our fall-winter collections.                                                                                                                                     • Daily stock prices
                                                                                                                                                                                WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 3
                                                                                                                                                                                                        WWD.COM

FASHION SCOOPS
OSCAR TAKE TWO: First Lady Michelle Obama’s
apparent fondness for European designer
labels has raised a few eyebrows Stateside,
                                                      range compared with J. Crew’s $298 crystal
                                                      constellation cardigan — or $650 for eBay
                                                      shoppers as of Monday.
                                                                                                                                       Wedding Belle
                                                                                                                              it’s not oFten that a BriDaL Designer wiLL Liken her Dresses to
especially in Manhattan’s Garment Center,                                                                                     pajamas — but, then again, not many bridal designers are like natalie chanin of
where business is through the basement and            L&T PICKS UP LIZ: Five years after Lord &                               alabama chanin. “you need to feel beautiful but also comfortable,” says chanin,
some American fashion flag-waving could only          Taylor dropped the Liz Claiborne brand,                                                                                                        ou
                                                                                                                              who launches her first bridal collection, the wedding, this week. “y shouldn’t be
help the cause.                                       the better-priced collection is back in favor                           afraid that your bra’s going to show or be picking at your dress while you’re stand-
    When informed that the First Lady had             with the retailer. L&T chief executive officer                          ing in front of everyone. it should be something that sits on you like a pajama.”
worked a few Europeans into her wardrobe of           Brendan Hoffman confirmed now that the                                      that comfort-driven mind-set is nothing new, of course, for those already familiar
late — Alaïa, Moschino, Etro — Oscar de la            brand has relaunched with Isaac Mizrahi as its                          with chanin’s work. in 2001, she launched project alabama, famous for its cotton gar-
Renta said at his bridal show Monday: “Our            designer this spring, L&T — which dropped                               ments handmade by artisans in her hometown of Florence, alabama. and she didn’t
industry right now is having a very difficult time.   the brand in 2004 as the retailer tried to                              skip a beat when, in 2007, she split with her partner and lost the rights to the label’s
I think it would be great if the First Lady dressed   reposition itself more upscale – is “launching                          name; later that year, she launched alabama chanin, which works with the very
in American styles. There are a lot of talented       it in a big way in fall and hopes to have some                                                              same quilters and stitchers. “we’re already set up
people here too.”                                     limited doors this spring. For us it’s a brand                            A look                            for custom orders,” says chanin, who is also hold-
    Some of De la Renta’s comments in WWD             that’s always resonated with our customer, and                            from The                          ing a trunk show for her signature collection at
last week drew a fair amount of media heat,           now that it’s been relaunched with Isaac, I’ve                            Wedding                           Barneys new york on wednesday. “every piece
in particular a criticism of Obama’s choice of        heard great things, and think it will be a great                          by Alabama                        we make [for the main line] is cut and sewn by
a black-and-white dress and cardigan to meet          addition,” said Hoffman.                                                  Chanin.                           hand, whether we’re making one piece or 200.”
Queen Elizabeth II. But de la Renta said his                                                                                                                          still, entering the bridal market wasn’t an ob-
critics chose to overlook the favorable things        STILA SALE?: Reports are circulating                                                                        vious move for the designer. “i’m not sure why it
he said about Obama’s fashion sense. “Look,           throughout the market that a sale could                                                                     took us so long,” she says, noting it was her re-
she has such great looks if she put on a potato       be near for beauty brand Stila, founded                                                                     cent spring lineup that put those nuptial gears
sack, she would look great.”                          by Jeanine Lobell in 1994 and owned by                                                                      in motion. “spring was inspired by ceremonial
    While the European response to the                Sun Capital Partners since 2006. (The                                                                       dresses, so we did a lot of white looks. it just
First Lady has been practically giddy, a              Estée Lauder Cos. owned the brand from                                                                      kind of developed from that.”
few naysayers emerged. Tyler Brûlé, for               1999 to 2006.) The company’s Web                                                                                the 50-piece wedding collection, which in-
example, wrote in The Financial Times’                site, stilacosmetics.com, has been under                                                                    cludes long V-neck gowns, tunic dresses, skirts
weekend edition, “…Someone needs to tell              construction “for routine maintenance” with a                                                               and tanks, as well as matching vests and jackets,
Michelle Obama that there’s a time and                note that orders placed on March 23 or March                                                                continues in the same folksy vein. everything
place for bare arms and it’s not on an early          24 might be canceled. Calls to the brand’s                                                                  comes cut in her trademark organic cotton jer-
spring evening at a rather important global           Glendale, Calif. headquarters — placed at                                                                   sey and, chanin proudly notes, is machine wash-
conference in London.”                                3 p.m. Pacific time — were answered with                                                                    able. But she doesn’t sacrifice elaborate design
    Even pundits on Chris Matthews’ show              a recording noting the company’s normal                                                                     for ease of care (and wear). the garments,
Sunday weighed in on the First Lady’s style,          business hours were from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.                                                                   priced from $150 to $4,000 wholesale, are embel-
praising her (inaccurately) for wearing J.            Monday through Friday. Sun Capital Partners                                                                 lished with visible stitching, reverse appliqués,
Crew to meet the Queen. The cardigan she              and Stila’s senior management, including                                                                    beading, stencilwork and embroidery galore —
wore was actually from the French designer            chief executive Deanna Kangas, did not                                                                      the artsy-craftsy techniques core to her clothes.
Azzedine Alaïa, which retails in the four-digit       respond to calls for comment.                                                                                   “when you’re looking at the wedding market,
                                                                                                                                                                  i think we have something truly different to offer,
                                                                                                                                                                  something that’s outside the norm,” says chanin.


Vuitton Art Exhibit Set for Hong Kong
                                                                                                                                                                  “the dresses we make, they’re heirloom pieces.”
                                                                                                                                                                      she adds that clients can also customize their
                                                                                                                                                                  own garments — pairing a silhouette with an
                                                                                                                                                                  embroidery pattern from the alabama chanin
By Miles Socha                                                                                                                                                    archives — or rework them into similar styles
                                                                                                                                                                  for bridesmaids or flower girls.
                                                                                                         photo by kyle ericksen




Louis Vuitton, which is constructing a permanent, Frank gehry-                                                                                                        and yet another bonus: in keeping with her
designed art foundation in paris, is giving a preview of some of its treasures with an                                                                            sustainable sensibility, chanin is able to overdye
ambitious exhibition in hong kong.                                                                                                                                the pieces after the big day. “i know a lot of peo-
   “Louis Vuitton: a passion for creation” is slated to run from may 22 to aug. 9 at                                                                              ple save their wedding dress for life,” she notes.
the hong kong museum of art. it recounts the French luxury firm’s long association                                                                                “this way, they can wear it more than once.”
with the art world, from the art Deco designers who collaborated with the founder’s                                                                                                                  — Venessa Lau
grandson on trunks to more recent hook-ups on leather goods with contemporary art
stars such as takashi murakami and richard prince.
   a press event is scheduled for today at the hong kong museum where Jean-
Baptiste Debains, president of Louis Vuitton asia-pacific, and chung Ling-hoi, an
                                                                                                         BEAUTY BEAT
                                                                                                                         Jane Files for Bankruptcy
official from hong kong’s Leisure
and cultural services Department,         A model of the Louis Vuitton
will sign a letter of intent and provide  Foundation by Frank Gehry.
details of the expo, billed as a star at-
traction during hong kong’s 17th an-                                                                                          By Andrea Nagel                              Jane’s senior secured lender that will
nual French may arts Festival. the                                                                                                                                         allow it to operate in chapter 11, the
city is angling to become a new art                                                                                           Jane & company, a VaLue-ori-                 firm said. Derek c. abbott and Daniel
hub in asia.                                                                                                                  ented cosmetics brand with annual            B. Butz of the wilmington law firm of
   the site-specific exhibition will                                                                                          revenues of about $25 million, filed for     morris, nichols, arsht & tunnell, LLp     ,
include some works that reflect the                                                                                           reorganization monday under chapter          represent the debtors.
complexity and energy of the host                                                                                             11 of the u.s. Bankruptcy code.                  Drew mcmanigle was named chief
city, including a film titled “central”                                                                                          Baltimore-based Jane, which is sold       restructuring officer several weeks ago
by French artist Dominique gonzales-                                                                                          by mass merchants and drugstores,            and is leading Jane’s reorganization ef-
Foerster, along with works by seven                                                                                           said the filing in wilmington, Del.,         forts. y arnell, Jane’s chief executive of-
young local artists.                                                                                                          was “due to significant cash liquidity       ficer, is serving in an advisory role.
   selections from Vuitton’s perma-                                                                                           issues faced by Jane arising from the            after months of speculation, the fil-
nent collection also will be on dis-                                                                                          economic crisis that affected retail         ing “really is not a surprise to many
play, including large-scale works                                                                                             customers nationwide.”                       people,” mcmanigle told wwD. “But i
by the likes of Jeff koons, andreas                                                                                              court documents detailed assets           do think with the fresh start provision
gursky, pierre huyghe, gilbert &                                                                                              of between zero and $50,000, and li-         it will give Jane an opportunity to come
george and Jean-michel Basquiat,                                                                                              abilities of between $1 million and $10      out on the other side of this process.”
plus videos from rosemarie trockel,                                                                                           million. Listed among the top 30 unse-           he said the firm’s debtor-in-posses-
wolfgang tillmans, ange Leccia,                                                                                               cured creditors were: topline products       sion financing commitment will allow
philippe parreno, Zhou tao and ryan                                                                                           co. inc., wayne, n.J., $1.7 million; Jane    the company to run and fill orders and
trecartin, among others.                                                                                                      holdings LLc, new york, $947,096;            get it into a “business as usual scenar-
   a scale model of gehry’s glass,                                                                                            garrett-hewitt international (n.y.) inc.,    io” at least through June.
cloudlike building will travel to hong                                                                                        wilton, conn., $474,106; Dmi, wharton,           “we will try to fast-track this; the
kong, along with a video interview with                                                                                       n.J., $381,309, and unique Display           longer you operate in chapter 11,” the
the famous architect. Vuitton broke                                                                                           corp., Freeport, n.y., $336,017.             worse the outcome for the company,
ground on the project last year at the                                                                                           Five equity holders with preferred        mcmanigle said, alluding to a possible
Jardin d’acclimatation in the Bois de                                                                                         and common stock were named in the           sale of Jane.
Bologne in paris, and is aiming to open                                                                                       bankruptcy petition: walnut private              on Feb. 28, Jane alerted suppliers
the foundation in 2012.                                                                                                       equity Fund, new york, holders of            in a letter to its “major cash liquid-
   separately, Vuitton plans to publish                                                                                       a 30.69 percent stake; stone canyon          ity crisis,” and how it was “unable
a book this september with rizzoli                                                                                            Venture Fund, Los angeles, 30.66 per-        to meet its current payment obliga-
new york titled “Louis Vuitton: art,                                                                                          cent; Lisa yarnell, stamford, conn.,         tions.” the problems were attributed
Fashion and architecture,” an anthol-                                                                                         11.38 percent; hauser Davis tysoe            to three factors, including a number
ogy of the brand’s art projects and                                     “Monkey Train”                                        rorie i LLc, cincinnati, 18.51 percent,      of discrepancies with a “major mass
critical essays about its patronage                                      by Jeff Koons.                                       and omar karame, Beverly hills, calif.,      retailer,” late payments from retail-
during what it describes as “one of                                                                                           0.03 percent.                                ers as well as an aggressive December
the most fertile periods of contempo-          For more photos, see WWD.com.                                                     a debtor-in-possession financing          new product launch.
rary art and design.”                                                                                                         commitment has been obtained from                — With contributions from Vicki Young
   4     WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  WWD.COM

The King and I                                                                                                                             left to live. decked out in mimelike makeup, pajamas
                                                                                                                                           and an orange wig, he grapples with physical and ex-
                                                                                                                                           istential decay, all the while flanked by his deadpan
                                                                                                                                           first wife Queen marguerite (Susan Sarandon) and
                                                                                                                                           his young, highly excitable second wife Queen marie
                                                                                                                                           (ambrose).
                                                                                                                                               “you’re given this extreme of emotion, so you not
                                                                                                                                           only have license but a necessity to go as far you can,”
                                                                                                                                           says ambrose, who spends the play vacillating between
                                                                                                                                           hysterical laughing and sobbing, all the while navigat-
                                                                                                                                           ing the stage in a velvet robe with a 12-foot-long train.
                                                                                                                                               “lauren is such a bold, daring and brave explorer,”
                                                                                                                                           says rush, who helped adapt the text and starred in
                                                                                                                                           its 2007 australian production. but even intrepid ac-
                                                                                                                                           tors meet limits, as ambrose found out when she had a
                                                                                                                                           particularly dangerous run-in with rush’s crown. “one
                                                                                                                                           day in rehearsal, i tore out a whole chunk of her hair,”
                                                                                                                                           rush recalls. “She yelped, and i said, ‘well, that will
                                                                                                                                           teach you for acting in my cranium.’ ”
                                                                                                                                               burdensome costumes aside, “exit the king”
                                                                                                                                           proved an intellectual challenge for ambrose, who
                                                                                                                                           pored over the original french text armed with a bi-
                                                                                                                                           lingual dictionary.
                                                                                                                                               “i’m a nerd. i like to get into the nitty gritty of all
                                                                                                                                           the words,” she says.
                                                                                                                                               it’s all par for the course for ambrose, who has been
                                                                                                                                           a working theater actress since she was 13. growing up
                                                                                                                                           in new haven, she discovered a passion for perform-
                                                                                                                                           ing and spent her middle-school summers audition-
                                                                                                                                           ing for broadway plays. one of her earliest jobs was
                     Lauren Ambrose at Alice’s Tea Cup.                                                                                    in ned eisenberg’s “Soulful Scream of a chosen Son.”
                                                                                                                                           “it was all of these actors getting no money, and it was
                                                                                                                                           a walk-up theater and really cool,” recalls ambrose,
                 you wouldn’t know it from her bright-eyed appearance                                      who at 31 continues to exude the youthful energy of a college drama major. “for me
                  on a chilly tuesday morning, but lauren ambrose has spent the bet-                       to be around people who were so passionate about their work, i was like, ‘wow, what
                  ter part of the last month weeping. rivers of tears that streak her pale                 a great way to make your life.’”
                 face with lines of running mascara. every night she confronts mortality                      though most recognized for her five seasons on hbo’s “Six feet under,” ambrose
                when her onstage husband in “exit the king” learns he will die by the                      has stomped her share of floorboards, as Juliet and ophelia in Shakespeare in the
               evening’s end.                                                                              park productions and in lincoln center’s “awake and Sing!” later this year she will
      “i’m crying for two and a half hours straight,” says ambrose. “and then you leave                    appear opposite paul giamatti in the darkly comic film “cold Souls” and paul dano
   the stage door and people are like, ‘can we take your picture?’ and i’m thinking, ‘i’ve                 in Spike Jonze’s “where the wild things are.”
   never looked worse.’ i need a lot of eye cream.”                                                           “i often find myself taking jobs because they scare me,” she says. “i can’t imagine
      in the play, a revival of eugène ionesco’s 1962 absurdist work on now at the ethel                   doing only one kind of thing.”
   barrymore theatre, king berenger (geoffrey rush) learns he has only 90 minutes                                                                                                                                                                                                    — Vanessa Lawrence

                                                                                                                           EYE SCOOP
                     CHINA PATTERN
                                                               Zeng Fanzhi is a Chinese artist whose work looks
       “Portrait 08-7-2”
                                                               kind of like a cross between Francis Bacon and Tim
       by Zeng Fanzhi.
                                                                      Burton. Last week, a smattering of art-world
                                                                           types and fashion folk showed up to
                                                                             fete him at the Acquavella Galleries on
                                                                              the Upper East Side before a dinner
                                                                               at Philippe on 60th Street. Despite
                                                                               the recession, the gallery sold nearly
                                                                                  a dozen paintings at prices that
                                                                                    ranged between $100,000
                                                                                     and $2 million each. “I’m very
                                                                                      content,” said Fanzhi, speaking
                                                                                      through his translator as guests                                                                                                                                       Mark Ronson plays for mom Ann Dexter-Jones
                                                                                      like Zhang Ziyi, Vivi Nevo and                                                                                                                                                        and sister Charlotte Ronson.
                                                                                      Wendi Murdoch munched on
                                                                                     steamed dumplings, spare ribs                                                                                                                                    the SunSet Strip iS hardly a haven for
                                                                                     and sautéed string beans. (Get                                                                                                                                   families — unless it’s the multifaceted ronson
                                                                                  it? Chinese artist, Chinese food.)                                                                                                                                  clan, who headlined a boisterous bash hosted by
                                                                                But Murdoch said she was holding                                                                                                                                      J.c. penney on friday at bar marmont in honor
                                                                                out on buying because the paintings                                                                                                                                   of designing daughter Charlotte Ronson’s new
                                                                                 were still awfully expensive. “I’m                                                                                                                                   fashion line, i [heart] ronson.
                                                                                 hoping to get the one I want at                                                                                                                                         grammy-winning son Mark Ronson led an all-
                                                                                                                           ambrose photo by talaya centeno; ronson party by steFanIe Keenan; FanZhI party by laUren FleIshman




                                                                                  a better price,” she said with                                                                                                                                      star band with Sam Sparro, Daniel Merriweather and
                                                                                  a laugh. As for Ziyi, she was                                                                                                                                       Alex Greenwald, while charlotte’s dJing twin, Sam,
                                                                                  feeling a lot of pride for her fellow                                                                                                         Drea de Matteo        spun tunes. despite a broken foot, matriarch Ann
                                                                                  countryman. “Whenever I have a                                                                                                                and Nicole Richie.         Dexter-Jones traveled to los angeles from
                                                                                  movie here, someone else from                                                                                                                               Anna           new york to cheer on her brood.
                                                                                  China gets quoted saying, ‘I’m so                                                                                                                          Paquin               the family’s unique pedigree of ce-
                                                                                 proud of her as a Chinese person.                                                                                                                                                      lebrity, music and fashion drew
                                                                            It’s great for our country.’ Well, tonight                                                                                                                                                   all sorts of stars including Sting,
                                                                                             I’m thrilled to say that as                                                                                                                                                 Trudie Styler, Jewel, Anna Paquin,
                                                                                             a Chinese person, ‘I’m so                                                                                                                                                   Nicole Richie, Drea de Matteo,
                                                                            Zhang Ziyi proud of him.’” Go China!                                                                                                                                                          Shooter Jennings, Milla Jovovich,
                                                                         s




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Jeremy Piven, and dsquared’s
                           Donna                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Dean and Dan Caten.
                           Acquavella                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       J.c. penney president Ken Hicks
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    hoped the celebrities would set an ex-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    ample for middle america that “this is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     what a star can wear and what i can
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     wear,” he said. (notable exceptions
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      being three of the revelers — Paris
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Hilton, Kim Kardashian and Simon Rex —
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      who shot to fame via sex tapes.)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           after guests helped them-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       selves to a gifting closet (dexter-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Jones scooped up six outfits,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        including denim shorts and a
    Jeanne-                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   sheer striped dress), rap
    Claude and                                                                                  Tinsley Mortimer                                                                                                                                                              group plastic little took
    Caption go                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             s Milla Jovovich the stage and true to form
    Christo. this
    here for                                          Zeng Fanzhi                               in a Chloé coat.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              in Diesel.      let the f-bombs fly.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 5
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        WWD.COM



                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Pretty Girls and Bad Boys
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Models misbehaving? Athletes acting up? Hardly a new notion (see Evelyn Nesbit and the Black Sox). But seldom have such
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             high-profile antics converged in one couple’s mutual faux pas. By now you’ve no doubt heard about Gisele and Tom’s “Shotgun
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Wedding,” as the New York Post called their Costa Rican vow-renewal on Sunday. (Whether the event was scheduled for the sake
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             of guests absent the first time around or merely for the fiduciary opportunity to sell exclusive photos is unclear.) No, the Bradys
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             weren’t the ones firing the shots, but the two heretofore known for impossible aesthetic perfection — and for good manners —
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             are fast seeing their commingled wattage dim. So what better time than this particular moment in pop culture cross-referencing to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             look back on the singular bad behavior of some of Gisele’s and Tom’s infamous colleagues? — Sarah Haight and Jessica Iredale




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           BRADY BY STEVE EICHNER; HUTTON BY STEPHANE FEUGERE; NESBIT BY A.S. CAmPBEll/GEORGE EASTmAN HOUSE/GETTY ImAGES; STEROIDS BY Al BEllO/GETTY ImAGES; SEYmOUR, EVANGElISTA BY RON GAlEllA, lTD./WIREImAGE; VICK BY JONATHAN ERNST/GETTY ImAGES; TYSON BY GEORGE TIEDEmANN/SPORTS IllUSTRATED/GETTY ImAGES
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Linda Evangelista:                Charles Barkley: Barkley
ROSE BY WAlTER IOOSS JR./SPORTS IllUSTRATED/GETTY ImAGES; BURRESS BY JEFF ZElEVANSKY/GETTY ImAGES; SARKOZY BY DOmINIqUE CHARRIAU/WIREImAGE; mOSS BY mATT KEEBlE/SPlASH NEWS; CAmPBEll BY lAWRENCE SCHWARTZWAlD/SPlASH NEWS; PHElPS BY JENNIFER mITCHEll/SPlASH NEWS; BARKlEY BY GIlBERT POlICE/SPlASH NEWS




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Cubicle-dwellers                   ended 2008 with a bang
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        everywhere took                  — almost. The former NBA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        note in 1990 when               star was pulled over on New
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Evangelista summed                 Year’s Eve after blowing a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        up the working habits         stop sign in Scottsdale, Ariz.,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        of the supermodel set          and charged with a DWI. His
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        to Vogue’s Jonathan          stated excuse: He was rushing                           Gisele
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Van Meter in one not-            to receive oral sex from his                        Bündchen
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        so-humble phrase: “We             female passenger. He also                          and Tom
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        don’t wake up for less            asked the arresting officer                        Brady
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        than $10,000 a day.”             “to admit she was hot.”




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Evelyn Nesbit: A long-ago troublemaking
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   s




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   temptress, artist’s model and chorus girl, Nesbit
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   served as a star witness in 1906 at the trial of her
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   husband, Harry Thaw, for the murder of her former
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   lover, Stanford White. Her appearance made her a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   tabloid “It” girl, a status, alas, she couldn’t hold
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   on to forever, and she faded into obscurity.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Lauren Hutton: During an appearance on the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   “Today” show last year, Hutton, know since her
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   heyday as outspoken and opinionated, weighed in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   on the depiction of women in “Sex and the City.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   “It’s written by guys, who happen to be gay, who
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   are sluts. That’s what I think,” she said, thereby
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   alienating a sizable share of her fashion-industry
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   colleagues.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              s

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Carla Bruni: Before she
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               s




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   became First Lady of                                                                     s Plaxico Burress: During an evening of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                France, Carla Bruni was                                                                     bad ideas — not to mention bad fashion —
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  plenty adventurous in                                                                     the Giants wide receiver shot himself in the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 matters of love. At one                                    s Pete Rose: Rose found         thigh with his unregistered Glock concealed
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    point, she struck up                                     himself banned from            in the waistband of the sweatpants he wore
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             s Naomi Campbell: The grande                                                                                                   baseball (including the         on a sojourn to the New York club Latin
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             dame of model scandal,                                               an affair with Raphael
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Enthoven, then married                                      Hall of Fame, for which         Quarter. Last week, Burress got a pink slip
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Campbell has a rap sheet longer                                                                                                 he was a shoo-in) for          from the Giants, making him a free agent.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             than her famous gams. After                                             to Justine Lévy, the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   daughter of Bernard-                                     betting on his own team         He’s currently facing two counts of second-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             hurling her jewel-encrusted                                                                                                      while managing the            degree criminal possession of a weapon,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             cell phone at a housekeeper in                                       Henri Lévy. Bruni and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Enthoven have a son                                          Cincinnati Reds.            with a court hearing set for June 15.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             2006, Campbell was supposedly
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             reformed by a community-                                           together, and Bruni has                                       Mike Tyson:
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           s




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             service stint. Alas, last year she                                   waved off rumors that                               Among the former
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             was arrested again at Heathrow                                        she was at one point                              heavyweight champ
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             on suspicion of assaulting a                                      involved with Enthoven’s                                  and facial-tattoo
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             police officer over a piece of lost                                     father. And, oh yes:                            fan’s offenses were
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             luggage. Now she’s banned from                                       On the eve of her first                              threatening to eat
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             British Airways for life.                                            official state visit with                                Lennox Lewis’
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      President Nicholas                               children, taking a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Sarkozy to Britain, a                            bite out of Evander
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               nude photo of Bruni was                               Holyfield’s ear and,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 auctioned at Christie’s                                  most seriously,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    for a cool $91,000.                                 raping a 19-year-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Stephanie Seymour:           old woman, for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          s




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Axl Rose said fiancée          which he served
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Seymour assaulted                 three years in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          him during a 1992                        prison.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Christmas party. She
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          said he assaulted her
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          and that they had never
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          even been engaged.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Seventeen years later,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          the two have only a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          “November Rain” video
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          to commemorate their
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          love.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             s Kate Moss: Fashion’s original
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             waif got caught on a cell-phone
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             camera sniffing a suspicious
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             substance in 2005. Within days,                                                                                         s Michael Vick: Even before his dog-fighting
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             and despite rushing into rehab,                                                                                         exploits, the former Atlanta Falcons star
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             she was dropped by a number                                                                                             quarterback behaved badly enough to inspire the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             of high-profile clients, some of                                                                                        “Really?” segment of SNL’s Weekend Update.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             whom, including Chanel and                                                                                              After his July 2007 arrest and conviction for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Burberry, rehired her. More                                                                                             running “Bad Newz Kennels” out of his 15-acre
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             recently — last week — Kate                                                                                                                                                  s Michael Phelps: The
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   s Steroid Studs: The roster of ill-repute includes Jason Giambi, Mark             property in Surry County, Va., he was sentenced to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             was on best, if mute, behavior                                                                                                                                               16-time Olympic medalist
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   McGwire, Roger Clemens, Jose Canseco, Barry Bonds (allegedly) and,                23-months in federal prison and will be released
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             during a series of Topshop                                                                                                                                                   swam out of line when he
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   most recently, Alex Rodriguez, who, as was very clear in a recent Details         two months early to home confinement in May.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             festivities in New York, until                                                                                                                                               was photographed at a party
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   magazine piece, still loves himself anyway.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             finally they got the better of her.                                                                                                                                          smoking out of a bong. He
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Obviously fed up with the photo                                                                                                                                              subsequently was suspended
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         The Black Sox: They were the Chicago White Sox until several members of the 1919 World Series-bound team, including
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             ops, on Thursday night she                                                                                                                                                   from competition for three
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Arnold Gandil, Eddie Cicotte, Oscar Felsch, “Shoeless” Joe Jackson, Fred McMullin, George “Buck” Weaver, Charles Risberg
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             shouted at a photographer to                                                                                                                                                 months and lost his deal
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              and Claude “Lefty” Williams, conspired to throw the Series. They were all subsequently banned from baseball.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             “Give me a f---ing moment!”                                                                                                                                                  with Kellogg’s.
6   WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009

Dennis Basso’s dyed
fitch duffle coat and
leather belt. Andy &
Debb’s blouse; Only
Hearts’ turtleneck;
Hue tights.




    ON
                                          Yes, there
                                   is a bright side.
                                     and designers
                                        are showing
                                      it this season




    THE
                                         with a neon
                                        palette that
                                     tosses subtle
                                      luxurY to the
                                   winds of winter.




    BrigHT
                                     — bobbi Queen




    SidE                          PHOTOS BY THOMAS iANNACCONE
                                                                          WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 7
                                                                                                  WWD.COM
                         Jerry Sorbara’s dyed




                       s
                       Swakara lamb paw
                       jacket, trimmed in
                       curly lamb, for Neiman
                       Marcus. Rag & Bone’s
                       dress; Badgley Mischka
                       necklace; Michael Kors
                       boots; Gestuz leggings.




                       Chris Benz’s sheared mink
                       peacoat and silk blouse.
                                                 s




   Gilles Mendel’s dyed,     Adrienne Landau’s knitted, hooded rabbit
  plucked mink coat and      vest. Only Hearts’ turtleneck; Diesel
     dress for J.Mendel.     leggings; Stuart Weitzman boots; jewelry
Badgley Mischka bangle;      and hair comb from Barbara Flood’s Closet;
  Emilio Cavallini tights;   Dennis Basso belt.
  earrings from Barbara
          Flood’s Closet.




                                                                                                            MODEL: JULES/ONE; HAIR BY DANIELLE IRENE FOR ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO; MAKEUP BY MIZU FOR SUSAN PRICE; FASHION ASSISTANT: KAYLA PASSONS
8   WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                WWD.COM


Europe’s Luxury Players Get Personal
Continued from page one
with them directly. It’s not only sending them catalogues.”
   “Our philosophy is if you are in the true luxury business, the way to talk to custom-
ers is one-to-one,” agreed Patrick Thomas, ceo of Hermès International. “This year we
are going to refocus our activity in our stores in order to bring more customers in and
devote attention to them. We’ve always done this, but we’re trying to intensify it.”
   Thomas estimated there is at least one event per day in a Hermès store somewhere
in the world. These include exhibitions, cocktail parties and product demonstrations
around specific products, including Hermès silk scarves and how to wear them.
   “The real focus for stores and for retail right now is to get traffic that’s not associ-
ated with sales,” said industry consultant Robert Burke of New York-based Robert
Burke & Associates. “People are going to get creative.”
   Hermann said her focus is on “small, humble and efficient” events with a focus on
individuality in terms of services and special products “you shouldn’t miss.”
   For example, next month at Barneys New York, YSL will unveil a “new vintage”
collection of iconic styles made of fabrics “recycled” from its inventories. And in June,
in tandem with YSL parent PPR’s release of the documentary film “Home” on World
Environment Day June 5, the French house plans to create special products and give
away free copies of the Yann Arthus-Bertrand movie on DVD.
   Ferragamo ceo Michele Norsa said six months ago he decided to shift a portion of
marketing investments to in-store events to generate consumer interest, especially in
this economic phase.
   “I think one must be creative when it comes to attracting consumers who are inun-
dated with invites and are used to wine-and-cheese cocktails, using the brain more
                                                                                                                                                                      Jimmy Choo hosted
than the wallet,” he said. “It’s important to tie
                                                                                                                                                                      a shopping event in
oneself to cultural events, to charities, to link
                                                                                                                                                                       co-founder Tamara
the brand to celebrities or to important events
                                                                                                                                                                     Mellon’s apartment.
such as [Milan’s] Salone del Mobile,” which
takes place later this month.
   Echoing other observers, Hermès’ Thomas                                                                                   In recent months in the U.S., Choo also partnered with the
noted its customer-focused initiatives are decen-                                                                         American Heart Association, Easter Seals and Ballet Florida
tralized, and managers are pressed to find “new                                                                            to host shopping events for top clients and charity supporters.
ways of talking about the product, the quality                                                                               “Nothing can replace the personal one-on-one
and the know-how” to assorted local markets.                                                                              touch between our teams in the stores and the clients,”
   Hermès recently hosted an exhibition of                                                                                Schulman stressed.
quirky photos by Austrian artist Erwin Wurm                                                                                  Angela Ahrendts, ceo of Burberry, agreed customers
in its Paris flagship on the Rue du Faubourg                                                                               want personal and specialized events, as compared with
Saint-Honoré “and it brought in quite a few                                                                               large-scale ones, which don’t seem “appropriate” in the
people,” Thomas said.                                                                                                     current climate. “They are an integral part of maintaining
   The images, which feature Hermès men’s                                                                                 our momentum, even in this downturn,” she said.
wear and accessories, are now making a tour                                                                                  Last month, Burberry creative director Christopher
of Hermès stores in the Chinese cities of                                                                                 Bailey hosted a men’s wear event at Barneys New York in
Dalian, Shanghai and Beijing.                                                                                             Manhattan, which generated strong media attention, espe-
   Thomas also said Hermès would open three                                                                               cially online.
or four temporary stores this year — including a                                                                             “With that kind of return on investment, of course we
seasonal one in East Hampton, N.Y. — as anoth-
er way to create an innovative shopping event.


                                                                                                                          “ We see these the client, a way
                                                                                                                                           events as
   YSL opened a “pop-up” boutique for
its Edition Unisex collection in downtown
Manhattan for a week last February, which at-
tracted some 2,000 customers.                                                                                             to get closer to           deliver
                                                                                                                          great customer service and build
   The brand just repeated the experiment
in Hong Kong. “We not only generated turn-
over, but attracted new customers as well,”
Hermann noted.
   Joshua Schulman, ceo at Jimmy Choo, said
                                                                                                                          a long-term relationship that will
he’s increasing “high-touch” store-based hap-                                                                             outlast the economic turbulence in
                                                                                                                                      ”
penings, including charity events and styling
workshops.
   “We see these events as a way to get closer
                                                                                                                          the air.
to the client, deliver great customer service                                                                                                   — Joshua Schulman, Jimmy Choo
and build a long-term relationship that will
outlast the economic turbulence in the air,”                                                                              are going to continue to invest in these type of events,”
he explained. “We have found this to be an ef- A photo by Erwin Wurm, displayed in Hermès shops, features its men’s wear. Ahrendts said.
fective strategy to reach out to established and                                                                             The brand also hosted an event for its new Notting Hill
new clients when traffic is down in many shopping destinations.”                             children’s wear store to raise awareness for the Burberry Foundation and the young
   Late last year, Choo invited its top 80 U.K. clients to co-founder Tamara Mellon’s people it supports. Coming up next is a launch event for Burberry’s flagship in Beijing,
private residence in London for a trunk show, makeovers and assorted pampering, and multiple events program for its new stand-alone children’s wear stores globally.
leading to orders in excess of 50,000 British pounds, or about $71,500 at current ex-           “We are continuing to invest in training our retail staff to increase our level of ser-
change. Teams are also organizing pop-up concessions at Harvey Nichols stores in vice to our customers and improving the luxury feel for the client at all levels, which
Birmingham, Leeds, Bristol and Manchester to duplicate the “Choo experience.”               also includes investing in our global visual merchandising,” Ahrendts said. “We are
                                                                                            also reallocating resources into our new digital marketing strategy for more reach
                                                                                            and doing multiple regional events, where we are able to engage the consumer in a
                                                                                            much more impactful way.”
                                                                                                John Hooks, deputy managing director at Giorgio Armani, said its stores are the
                                                                                            principal location for trunk shows, cocktails, press and charity events, including one
                                                                                            recently in London with the Chelsea soccer team, which the designer dresses.
                                                                                                “A store can be considered as a mirror of a particular philosophy of style,” Hooks
                                                                                            said. “While there, all the guests can in fact enjoy and literally experience the de-
                                                                                            signer’s tastes and ideas. The best events are tailored — so red carpet gowns work
                                                                                            well in Hollywood, soccer works well in Milan. Another activity that works well, we
                                                                                            find, is special private shopping hours for select clients.”
                                                                                                Seeing a need to attract new and younger customers to its historic Hamburg loca-
                                                                                            tion, Jil Sander recently held a small fashion show and cocktail party for 250 guests,
                                                                                            which boosted traffic from established and new clients for the week after.
                                                                                                “Traffic in the store seems to be the magic formula at this moment and we are
                                                                                            evaluating cross marketing activities with luxury brands besides the fashion business
                                                                                            to create additional excitement,” ceo Gian Giacomo Ferraris said.
                                                                                                Prada recently hosted a series of events in which it invited prominent stylists to
                                                                                            customize its windows, in addition to upping its trunk shows, special installations
                                                                                            and windows.
                                                                                                “All these events have an immediate return on the store’s sales but more in gener-
                                                                                            al, they contribute in creating and renovating the consumer interest for the brand and
                                                                                            its products, a benefit that is tangible in the medium to long term,” a Prada spokes-
                                                                                            man said. “We’re well aware that the most faithful clientele represents an essential
                                                         A view of YSL’s pop-up shop in New asset to the brand, especially in difficult market conditions.”
                                                             York for its Edition Unisex line.
                                                                                                                       — With contributions from Alessandra Ilari and Samantha Conti
                                                                                                                                                                      WWD, tuesDay, april 7, 2009 9
                                                                                                                                                                                              WWD.COM
                         Textile & Trade Report


                         Buyers Go Conservative at Interstoff Asia                           Joe Lin, general manager at Taiwan’s Sinberly
                                                                                                                                                        Z Zegna to Show In Milan
                                                                                                                                                        By Emilie Marsh
                         By Andrea Li
                                                                                         International, which exports organic cotton and recycled       MILAN — Z Zegna is coming home.
                         HONG KONG — Buyers bargain hunted their way through             bamboo and charcoal to Europe, said the sourcing of eco            The designer sportswear collection from
                         the Interstoff Asia textile fair here, pressuring manufac-      textiles has dwindled because it doesn’t make economic         Italian men’s wear brand Ermenegildo Zegna is
                         turers to cut prices and committing to smaller volumes as       sense to buyers.                                               moving its runway show to Milan from New York
                         concerns about the global recession loomed large.                   “Many brands still have an interest in eco textiles, but   starting in June, WWd has learned.
                            Many of the 163 international exhibitors showing at          they are not placing orders right now,” Lin said.                  For the past four seasons, Z Zegna has
                         the three-day fair that ended March 20 said converting              Manufacturers are taking an active approach to man-        shown during New York Fashion Week and the
                         buyer interest into orders was difficult, although event        aging the downturn. Some are developing special-purpose        Ermenegildo Zegna line hosts a runway presen-
                         organizer Messe Frankfurt said visitor turnout was up 11        and innovative fabrics, while others are exploring ways of     tation in Italy each season.
                         percent to 7,000 from last autumn’s show.                       producing cheaper products for the mass market.                    gildo Zegna, Ermenegildo Zegna group chief
                            “Everyone is shopping around these days to get the               Japanese manufacturer Ishinco recently started pro-        executive officer, described the move as “a stra-
                         best deals, but there have not been too many orders,” said      ducing its own specialty polyester fabric mix in a bid to      tegic decision…to highlight Z Zegna’s individu-
                         Kenny Chan, a sales representative at fabric manufactur-        sharpen its competitive edge. It also has shifted some of      al market position and identity” and increase
                         er Top South International in Shanghai. “There has been         its output in Japan to Chinese factories, where operating      the label’s exposure to international buyers
                         more buyer interest recently.”                                  costs are on average 50 percent to 70 percent lower.           and press.
                            Nicola Mullen, a design manager at Mosaic Fashions,              “There are two ways of weathering this downturn,”              “I am adamant that
                         the parent company of U.K. high street fashion brands           said Fred Arai, Ishinco’s general manager. “You can ei-        showing both Ermen-




                                                                                                                                                                                    WWD
                                                                                                                                                        egildo Zegna and Z
                                                                                                                                                        Zegna in Milan will
                          Attendance was
                                                                                                                                                        further consolidate
                          up 11 percent to
                                                                                                                                                        the     Ermenegildo
                          7,000 visitors.
                                                                                                                                                        Zegna group as the


                                                                                                                                                                                    Men’s
                                                                                                                                                        global leader in the
                                                                                                                                                        men’s wear industry,”
                                                                                                                                                        he said.
                                                                                                                                                            Launched in spring
                                                                                                                                                        2004, Z Zegna made its
                                                                                                                                                        runway debut in New York in February 2007.
                                                                                                                                                        The venue for Z Zegna’s spring-summer show
                                                                                                                                                        has yet to be decided. Ermenegildo Zegna, which
                                                                                                                                                        made its runway debut in January 2008, shows at
                                                                                                                                                        its headquarters on via Savona.
                                                                                                                                                            Z Zegna represents 15 percent of Ermen-
                                                                                                                                                        egildo Zegna’s sales, which grew 8.3 percent
photos by Gareth Jones




                                                                                                                                                        to 843.3 million euros, or $1.16 billion at aver-
                                                                                                                                                        age exchange, in 2007. Last year’s volume isn’t
                                                                                                                                                        available.
                                                                                                                                                            The luxury group is aiming for global sales of
                                                                                                                                                        one billion euros by 2010 — the brand’s centen-
                                                                                                                                                        nial. Ermenegildo Zegna counts 577 stores in 86
                                                                                                                                                        countries.
                         Karen Millen, Warehouse, Oasis and Whistles, said it was        ther evolve into the more specialized areas in order to                       Milan Fashion Week runs June 20
                         important to be realistic.                                      set yourself apart, or reduce the production cost of your                  to 24.
                            “It is crucial to look at fabrics that are relevant to the   textiles for the mass market. We have done both.”
                         season and on trend,” she said. “Rather than going for             Top South International has created its own fabrics as                For Zegna runway looks, see
                         many different fabrics, it’s better to get five to six really   well, mixing polyester and spandex, and is using new yarns.              WWD.com.
                         phenomenal ones. Less is more in this climate.”                    “We haven’t secured orders for the new items yet,
                            Textile manufacturers, adversely impacted by the eco-        but this is a way of building customer confidence,”
                         nomic crisis, have seen order volumes fall 10 percent to
                         50 percent, and suppliers in China have resorted to cost
                                                                                         Chan said. “We are signaling to customers that we are
                                                                                         still in business.”                                            Burberry Seeks to Void
                                                                                                                                                        License With Hartmarx
                         cutting in an effort to sustain business viability.                Prospects for an economic recovery are uncertain, but
                            Top South International closed its Hong Kong office          well-positioned fashion brands and textile manufacturers
                         earlier this year so it could cut prices 10 to 15 percent.      said the downturn presents emerging market opportuni-
                            “Everywhere in China, factories are cutting their profit     ties, especially for eco textiles.                             BURBERRY IS SEEKINg TO vOId ITS TAI-
                         margins,” Chan said. “With orders plummeting, there is no          “Manufacturers with the financial capability of mov-        lored clothing license with the bankrupt
                         way businesses can survive if they don’t offer better prices    ing into greener production should do it now, because          Hartmarx Corp.
                         to buyers who have become very price conscious.”                this provides a competitive advantage,” said Pat Nie               According to documents filed in the Northern
                            Some manufacturers believe eco fabrics are likely to         Woo, director of Hong Kong-based yarn producer Central         district of Illinois bankruptcy court, Burberry
                         be hit hardest because of the higher cost of production.        Textiles. “It is an opportunity to move ahead of the game.     Limited, a New York-based subsidiary of
                            Executives at Sapphire, a vertically integrated textile      To hold off, in my opinion, would be a mistake.”               Burberry group plc, wants out of the license
                         manufacturer based in Lahore, Pakistan, said organic               Hans Buehr, Triumph International’s head of pur-            Hartmarx has held since 1997, citing failure to
                         fabrics lacked the resilience of mainstream products.           chasing, said: “Companies should pursue sustainabil-           meet terms of the agreement.
                            “With price-conscious buyers more cautious about             ity even more strongly. It would send the wrong signal             The key issue is the sale of Hartmarx to a third
                         what they are sourcing, the focus right now is on consum-       if people took the cheapest exit option just because           party. The court papers, which were filed April 3,
                         ers’ immediate needs, not environmental worries,” said          times are hard. Those with a long-term strategy will           argue that in the event of a sale Burberry’s fall
                         executive director Nabeel Abdullah.                             be rewarded.”                                                  orders would be filled by a new owner. Since li-
                                                                                                                                                        censing agreements cannot be transferred with-
                                                                                                                                                        out a licensor’s consent, Burberry said it has the
                         Filo Mills Tone Down Fall Offerings                                                 rather than shine were what buyers
                                                                                                             were after.
                                                                                                                                                        right to terminate the contract now in order to
                                                                                                                                                        line up a new manufacturer.
                         By Kerry Olsen                               giovanni Tessari, Lurex’s mar-            At FFM, the French company was              “Burberry needs to make arrangement for its fall
                                                                   keting director, acknowledged the         exhibiting for the first time under the    product now,” the company said in the filing, adding
                         MILAN — Yarn manufacturers exhibit-       high end of the market was ex-            Safil name, the Biella-based business      it “should not be required to deal with a licensee
                         ing at the 31st edition of Filo pushed    periencing continuing difficulty.         that took over FFM in November.            not of its choosing.”
                         new approaches in an effort to fight      However, Tessari said the company         With production now shifted to Safil’s         The filing also said Hartmarx breached its
                         the pressures of the economic crisis.     intends to keep developing yarns to       Bulgaria factories, FFM exhibited          licensing agreement by failing to furnish state-
                            A 7 percent increase in exhibi-        entice buyers.                            a range of mohair and fancy yarns          ments for both yearly sales and royalty payments
                         tor attendance to 2,700 people               Trans-polyester fibers that can be     along with a new “superkid cape mo-        related to its licensed Burberry product.
                         boosted spirits for many at the two-      dyed and overdyed in shades such as       hair” created specifically for humid           details of the licensing agreement, including
                         day fair that ended March 19. Paolo       browns, purples and violets were on       Asian summers.                             the amount Hartmarx currently owes Burberry,
                         Monfermoso, Filo’s project manager,       show from Lurex. Foil-effect yarns           dominique Carpentier, FFM’s             were redacted in the court documents, but
                         said the “fair was holding its own.”      were on display, but without the for-     commercial director, noted that            the partnership has been sizeable for Hickey
                            Exhibitors responded to the            mer gold and silver color palette,        buyer attendance was predominant-          Freeman, the Hartmarx-owned brand that pro-
                         downturn with innovative product          which Tessari explained is now “too       ly made up of Italians, with almost        duces Burberry clothing at its Rochester, N.Y.,
                         and “previously untried formulas,”        linked to the concept of luxury.”         no Americans.                              factory. According to financial documents filed
                         Monfermoso said.                             Como-based Trendfil offered a             The U.S. market was also a con-         with the court, Hickey Freeman paid Burberry
                            The lineup of 80 exhibitors em-        similar range of metallic polyester       cern for Marchi & Fildi. Caternia          almost $500,000 in the 90 days before the com-
                         phasized casual yarns and a more          yarns that could be blended with silk     dissegna, director of the company,         pany filed for bankruptcy on Jan. 23.
                         restrained luxury offering. New me-       and wool, giving the natural fibers a     said American buyers used to be “big           The license between Hartmarx and Burberry
                         tallic shades such as copper were         higher fashion look.                      business” for the mill, but the weak       is set to expire in mid-2010.
                         presented without excessive bril-            “Softer metallic shades were right     dollar has chased much of that busi-           Hartmarx, which declined comment, has until
                         liance. vendors also continued to         for the market at the moment,” said       ness away. However, with exchange          April 11 to file objections. The motion is scheduled
                         push blends of natural fibers with        Francesco Boselli, general manager        rates improving, dissegna hoped to         to be heard on April 14.
                         viscose and modal yarns.                  at Trendfil, adding that brightness       “regain a part of the market again.”                                       — Brenner Thomas
10 WWD, tuesDay, april 7, 2009
                                                                                                                                                                          WWD.COM
Green Report


Companies Push Green Practices Despite Sour Economy
By WWD Staff                                                                               Looks for                                                                  Loomstate for
Eco-friEndly, sustainablE and Ethical arE                                                 Loomstate for                                                                      Target
words that have become part of the permanent lexicon                                     Barneys Green.
of manufacturers and retailers in recent years. from
the smallest 500-square-foot shop to the mass chain with
1,000-plus stores, companies are looking for ways to lower
their carbon footprints, conserve energy, identify ethical
sourcing partners and educate consumers about the ben-
efits of saving the planet, and consumers themselves are
becoming more interested in the topic as well. according
to a survey by Wsl strategic retail, 55 percent of consum-
ers buy organic products, up from 49 percent a year ago.
    Many companies are making investments that will
lead to cost-saving efficiencies. a healthy regard for the
environment has become part of many firms’ identities,
from Patagonia to yes, Wal-Mart. for others, such as the
Gap, eco-sensitive products and ethical sourcing is part
of the culture, something that employees have come to
expect and consumers increasingly demand.
    sylvie bénard, director of environment at lVMh,
said the idea of environmental initiatives being more
expensive than traditional methods is not necessarily
true, adding that maintaining environmental efforts in
the downturn makes economic sense. “the message that
the environment costs a lot has passed,” she said. “it
has really evolved.”
    bénard, noted that lVMh will maintain its invest-
ments this year in everything from boutiques that con-
sume less energy to carbon audits to water measurement.
these investments will ultimately lead to cost-savings for
the group. to companies wondering whether they can
maintain their commitment to the environment in the
midst of an economic crisis, she said, “We must not stop




                                                                                                                                                                                      photos by talaya Centeno
everything because the financial situation isn’t as good
as we would hope. these are resources that will one day
disappear. they are irreplaceable. no matter what the
financial situation or the social situation, we have to con-
tinue to tackle that.”
    a stricter regulatory landscape, such as Europe’s
registration, Evaluation, authorisation and restriction
of chemicals, (rEach), which came into force last year,
is prompting some companies to jump on the green bandwagon. businesses must re- such as france and the netherlands. Meanwhile, “investment piece” has become the
spond to new obligations, economic crisis or not. some government policies see green industry’s mantra, touted by luxury brands and magazines, retail experts said.
as the route to recovery. the french Ministry of Ecology is working on developing a           french consumers are fed up with clothes that don’t last. “We are starting to see
label for eco-friendly products by 2011 and possibly lowering the Vat on products more people complaining that clothing isn’t good quality and falls apart too quickly,”
deemed eco-friendly.                                                                       said nathalie ruelle, professor and sustainable fashion consultant at the institue
    h&M plans to increase its organic cotton products stable by 50 percent this year, francais de la Mode, referring to an ifM study last october. “this falls into the slow
given consumers’ desire to buy sustainable products, said harsha Vardhan, h&M’s fashion trend — products that are fashionable but have a longer life span,” she said.
global environment coordinator. “Given that most factories have stopped expanding ruelle praised h&M’s upscale cos chain, which “offers beautiful, quality clothing
in the current climate, the credit crunch is actually the best time for factories to em- with good finishes and materials that last.”
bark on cleaner production programs,” she said. “the price gap between organic and            “somewhere along the way, we forgot about making things to last,” said david
ordinary cotton has narrowed sharply from a previous 100 percent to 20 to 30 percent hieatt, founder of the Welsh sustainable brand howies. “We convinced ourselves that
due to higher production volume and the growing number of suppliers, making this a being different, being new, being quirkier was the thing. Quality was put at the back of
much more affordable alternative.”                                                         the queue.” the company is trying to change course. hand-me-downs, howies’ latest
    Pat nie Woo, director of central textiles, said at the interstoff asia Essential tex- collection, has prices as high as 400 pounds, or $593, for a classic outdoor tweed-lined
tile trade show in hong Kong last month, “We are almost debt free, which means we jacket, but comes with a 10-year guarantee.
have the financial flexibility to continue pursuing sustainable projects. despite the         for lVMh’s bénard, a product’s longevity is a top priority. in fact, lVMh is de-
economic downturn, central textiles will go ahead with our sustainable development veloping a product life cycle analysis tool that will be used by product design groups
plans, but of course, these plans must make financial                                                                      across the company’s fashion houses. “the goal is that
sense. the economic recession presents an opportunity                                                                      designers take environmental considerations into ac-


                                                             “
to move ahead of the game.”                                                                                                count at the design stage, and eventually we won’t need
    from her small store on first avenue in downtown
Manhattan, lisa linhardt sells her environmentally sen-
                                                               We must not stop everything                                 the environmental team any more,” she said.
                                                                                                                              barneys new y   ork has made organic and eco-friend-
sitive jewelry: engagement rings with ethical diamonds
mined in canada, rings and necklaces made from wood
                                                             because the financial situation isn’t                         ly fashion a priority. loomstate for barneys Green, a
                                                                                                                           100 percent organic cotton collection, will introduce a
                                                             as good as we would hope.
                                                                                                          ”
scraps donated by a furniture company and jewelry made                                                                     series of t-shirts inspired by endangered wildlife for
from organic south american tagua seeds.                                                                                   fall. spring debuts include Koi suwannagate’s collec-
    “customers are reacting positively to it and they are                                    — Sylvie Bénard, LVMH tion made with organic silk or vintage cashmere and
willing to pay more for it,” linhardt said. “in order to                                                                   overstock threads, raf simons for Jil sander organic
be green, you have to have an environmental conscience                                                                     Knits’ exclusive 100 percent organic cashmere collec-
and a social conscience.”                                                                  tion and stefano Pilati’s yves saint laurent line made from ysl fabric that would
    linhardt avoids using newly mined gold collected under unsafe or inhumane condi- have been destroyed or thrown out. barneys also encourages customers to recycle.
tions, termed “dirty gold.” rather, she works with recycled gold, although finding manu- Worn jeans can be exchanged for a small discount on a new pair.
facturers that share her commitment is difficult. Prices in her store range from $30 for      Patagonia, the Ventura, calif.-based outdoor clothier whose business is based on
a ring made from Ecoresin — 40 percent recycled plastic with wood inlays — to $25,000 sustainability, places an emphasis on timeless, classic designs that last. over the last
for a custom engagement ring or cocktail ring with diamonds or lonsdaleites.               four years, Patagonia’s sales have grown from $75 million to $300 million. “our brand
    anthropologie is tapping into Earth day, april 22, to connect with customers. is really resonating right now,” said casey sheehan, Patagonia’s chief executive officer.
organic chefs and food advocates will appear in several anthropologie stores, while Green initiatives are paying off for Patagonia. doubling the size of a warehouse using the
other locations will host farm-to-table and gardening events. in the spirit of recycling, leadership in Energy and Environmental design (lEEd) building ratings system cost 7
the retailer is offering reinvention workshops where consumers learn to rework car- percent more than using traditional techniques, but because the building is 40 percent
digan sweaters and revitalize t-shirts.                                                    more energy efficient, Patagonia saw a return on its investment in three years.
    loomstate for target, casual men’s and women’s apparel made from certified or-            Gap inc. is engaged on several fronts. “We’re working to reduce energy use in our
ganic cotton, will debut at the retailer on april 19. “We continue to do ongoing re- stores, distribution centers and headquarters,” a spokeswoman said. “by the end
search about what our guests want and it’s obvious to us that more guests are craving of 2007, we reduced consumption by 12.7 percent. at old navy we relamped all the
eco-friendly products,” said a target spokeswoman. “in general, that’s been a trend. stores with energy-efficient bulbs that will cut energy costs by 10 percent.” the compa-
there really isn’t a department in the store that hasn’t been impacted by eco-friend- ny installed a 1 megawatt solar power system in its fresno distribution center, which
ly.” target is working on reducing packaging of existing products, and in conjunction will generate 1.9 million kilowatt hours. at Gap’s san francisco headquarters, there’s
with General Electric, on april 19 will give away one million reusable bags containing no bottled water for sale, cutlery is used in the cafeteria and every office contains a
coupons for compact fluorescent light bulbs. “We have a really integrated and wholis- compost and recycling bin and tiny trash can that makes employees “mindful about
tic approach that encompasses merchandising, marketing, sustainability and energy creating waste,” the spokeswoman said. Gap is reducing water use, recycling scraps
management,” said the spokeswoman.                                                         from cutting room floors and including alternative fibers in all collections. banana
    one of the strongest emerging trends in Europe is a move away from throwaway republic, meanwhile, launched a second sustainable line as part of its heritage col-
fashion toward more lasting apparel. h&M’s first-quarter sales declined 5 percent on lection. Gap inc. last month was ranked the number-one retailer among 100 best cor-
a like-for-like basis, suggesting the chain isn’t immune to the economy in key markets porate citizens by cro magazine for the fourth year in a row.
t h e   u l t i m a t e   c o t t o n   f o r   f a s h i o n
12 WWD, tuesDay, april 7, 2009
                                                                                                                                                                            WWD.COM
Green Report

Italian Firms Invest in Communities Producing Natural Fibers                                   value attributed to the fiber has created a primary economic resource for the
By Emilie Marsh
                                                                                               people with the added value of benefiting the protection of the breed,” Loro
MILAN — For Italian luxury firms, sustainable development is good karma and                    Piana said.
good business.                                                                                      Indeed, promoting a fiber’s origins also helps create awareness of value for
   Ermenegildo Zegna, Loro Piana and textile mills Cotonificio Honegger and                       the end consumer.
Marchi & Fildi are among those investing in development programs support-                                  “Our consumers have always appreciated the value originating from
ing local communities that produce natural fibers, including cotton, cash-                                authentic quality….I trust that these characteristics are being appreci-
mere and vicuña, to put value back in the supply chain.                                                    ated more and more and believe that purchasing an item of intrinsic
   “The quality of our products is based on building a close relationship                                   value might be considered a good investment,” Loro Piana said.
with and supporting the local communities of the world’s finest fibers,”                                        Zegna agrees. “Raw fiber is one of the basic elements responsible
said Paolo Zegna, chairman of Ermenegildo Zegna and president of the                                         for the quality of the final product, the image Ermenegildo Zegna
Milan textile trade show Unica.                                                                              is famous for. You need to be able to follow and control the process
   Hence, Ermenegildo Zegna invested 1 million euros in a well-drilling                                       — from the raw fibers to the very end product. Natural fibers are
project for cashmere producers in Mongolia and vicuña producers in Peru.                                       expensive, but they have added value.” For fall, Zegna unveiled its
   “We found that the one thing most communities needed was better                                             Oasi Cashmere, which is treated with eco-friendly dyes made with
water supply. It’s not about just sending a check. It’s about doing the                                        wood and herbal pigments.
research and finding out what the people really need to improve their                                             Although the current economic environment has arguably ac-
lives, and subsequently that of the livestock,” Zegna said, adding that                                        celerated consumer interest in product origins and led to more
the company was investing in the “long term.”                                                                  conscious purchasing decisions, Ermenegildo Zegna’s support for
   Ermenegildo Zegna’s support for world communities also extends                                              local fiber producers can be traced back more than 40 years, when
to India, where this year, through its Foundation Zegna initiative                                             the company first introduced its annual trophy for the best natu-
and in collaboration with the Care & Share nonprofit organization,                                             ral-fiber production in 1963. Dubbed the Vellus Aureum Trophy,
the company established a micro-credit project for women, giving                                              the prize is still awarded to the finest woolen fleece worldwide.
them access to small loans and courses in artisanal trades, such                                             Similarly, Loro Piana’s relationship with the Peruvian communities
as weaving, embroidering or tailoring, to enable them to set up                                              spans over 20 years, and the company signed an agreement with the
businesses of their own.                                                                                     local government in 1994 to protect the vicuña species and provide
   Loro Piana in June moved from investing in the animals it                                                  assistance to communities.
shears to acquiring the land they feed on by purchasing 2,000 hect-                                              More recently, Marchi & Fildi, yarn makers based in Biella, Italy,
ares in Peru — an area about six times the size of Central Park —                                          last year launched Ecotec yarn, a yarn made from recycled cotton. This
to preserve the vicuña, which had been in danger of extinction.                                    year, for every kilo of Ecotec sold, 0.05 euros will go to nonprofit organization
   “We rely on the production of the local communities from                                       Man’s Brothers, which promotes social and economical development in Latin
whom we buy the majority of the fiber produced in the Peruvian                                  America and Africa. Ecotec will directly benefit Malika, a neighborhood on
Andes. By making a live vicuña more valuable than a dead one for the                            the outskirts of Dakar in Senegal, by training 100 Senegalese minors in related
communities, we have established a virtuous cycle,” said co-chief executive                      trades at their local factory.
officer Pier Luigi Loro Piana, who, together with his brother Sergio, named the                      Meanwhile, Cotonificio Honegger, one of Italy’s biggest shirting fabric
land after their father, Franco Loro Piana.                                                     mills, based in Bergamo, Italy, opened its first shirt manufacturing company
   “The fiber is the most precious and finest fiber in the world,” he added.                  in the former Italian colony of Eritrea, a country on the Red Sea just north of
   He’s not kidding. Six vicuñas need to be sheared for one sweater, and                              Ethiopia. Called ZA.ER, the mill boasts a 500-strong local workforce and
35 for a coat. According to Loro Piana, one kilogram of vicuña costs 10                               offers classes in textiles and Italian, and also hosts a nursery to care for
times more than the highest quality cashmere.                                Oasi cashmere coat by employees’ children while they work. Cotonificio Honegger projected the
   “The project guarantees the socioeconomic value gained: The high           Ermenegildo Zegna.      Eritrean project would result in the creation of 400 new jobs by 2010.




                                                                                                            U.N. Seeks to Reduce Synthetics
                                                                                                             The United Nations
                                                                                                             is getting down to                                    The U.N. plans to
                                                                                                             earth.                                           reverse trends in fiber
                                                                                                                In an effort to im-                             production in 2009.
                                                                                                             prove the world’s
                                                                                                             supply of natural re-
                                                                                                             sources, the U.N. has
                                                                                                             declared 2009 the
                                                                                                             International Year of
                                                                                                             Natural Fibers.




                                                                                                                                                                                        photo by b.A. StewArt & J.e. Fletcher/NAtioNAl geogrAphic/getty imAgeS
                                                                                                                The designation
                                                                                                             is meant not only to
                                                                                                             protect the environ-
                                                                                                             ment, but also to safe-
                                                                                                             guard the commu-
                                                                                                             nities that produce
                                                                                                             vegetal fibers like
                                                                                                             jute, flax and ramie,
                                                                                                             as well as camel hair
                                                                                                             and cashmere. Such
                                                                                                             fibers have seen their
                                                                                                             market share cut by
                                                                                                             the rise of synthetic
                                                                                                             fibers over the last
                                                                                                             half-century.
                                                                                                                To help reverse
                                                                                                             that trend, the U.N.
                                                                                                             is aiming to ensure
                                                                                                             that producers have
                                                                                                             the technology and
                                                                                                             knowledge to pro-
                                                                                                             duce fibers of the
                                                                                                             highest quality. In Peru, for example, the U.N. Food and Agriculture
                                                                                                             Organization, or FAO, is working with farmers to improve their al-
                                                                                                             paca production, which has suffered due to years of bulk trading.
                                                                                                                The FAO is also working to cut the amount of pesticides used
                                                                                                             by farmers on crops such as cotton, which not only reduces nega-
                                                                                                             tive environmental impact, but helps farmers by minimizing depen-
                                                                                                             dence on expensive chemicals.
                                                                                                                Other goals include raising public awareness and encouraging
                                                                                                             public policy with a focus on the success of niche markets, research
                                                                                                             and development for new applications of the versatile fibers and
                                                                                                             the encouragement of cooperation among industry groups. Events
                                                                                                             scheduled for 2009 include displays and fashion shows as well as
                                                                                                             conferences, such as the meetings held at the Fashion Institute of
                                                                                                             Technology in New York on cotton sustainability, and at the Gaston
                                                                                                             College Textile Technology Center in Belmont, N.C., on applications
                                                                                                             for alpaca, both held earlier this month.
                                                                                                                                                                 — Rachel Mascetta
                                                                                                                                                           WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 13
                                                                                                                                                                                   WWD.COM

MEMO PAD                                                                                                                                         wrong covering Hollywood, but it’s a fine line.
BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD: The downtown                                                                                                          Our readers don’t want to know about Suri and
and uptown sets came together on Friday                                                                                                          Shiloh’s play date. I don’t even want to know
night for a Champagne-and-canapé VIP affair                                                                                                      who they are, but I do.” — Marcy Medina
to celebrate the Society of Illustrators’ newest
exhibit, “The Line of Fashion,” on view at the                                                                                                   COAST TO COAST: Katherine Ross, senior
nonprofit’s East 63rd Street gallery through                                                                                                     vice president of public relations and
May 2. Curated by artist and author Robert W.                                                                                                    communications for LVMH Moët Hennessy
Richards, the show features commercial and                                                                                                       Louis Vuitton’s North American operations
editorial work by fashion illustration luminaries                                                                                                since 2005, is no longer a full-time employee
such as Antonio Lopez, Steven Stipelman, Joe                                                                                                     of the French luxury group. Ross said she is
Eula, Michael Vollbracht and Kenneth Paul                                                                                                        now a consultant for LVMH Inc. and based
Block. While the art form might have gone                                                                                                        in Los Angeles, where she has been living
the way of 45-rpm records and 35-mm film                                                                                                         for more than two years since her husband,
— WWD and sister publication W Magazine                                                                                                          Michael Govan, became director and chief
were among its last bastions — you wouldn’t                                                                                                      executive officer of the Los Angeles County
have guessed it given the excited crowd,                                                                                                         Museum of Art. Prior to joining LVMH, Ross
which included Vollbracht and Stipelman, as                                                                                                      was an executive at Prada Group and, before
well as Narciso Rodriguez, former model Alva                                                                                                     that, Sotheby’s North America. — Miles Socha
Chinn, Bill Cunningham and design duo Phillipe
and David Blond. “This particular moment is a                                                                                                    INSIDE JOB: Fashionable Parisians (and those
good moment for fashion illustration,” curator                                                                                                   who wish they were) now have a new online
Richards explained. “Photography is losing its                                                                                                   cheat sheet. Launched last month by Véronique
credibility. Nobody knows what’s real anymore,                                                                                                   Roger-Vasselin-Constantinoff, former fashion
what’s not real — is she really that tall? Does she                                                                                              editor in chief for Atmospheres magazine and
have that much hair? Are those really her tits?                                                                                                  onetime style consultant for Le Bon Marché,
It’s Photoshop, Photoshop, Photoshop. If you’re                                                                                                  Doitinparis.com is a whimsical, mostly Left Bank
going to do fake, you might as well go really                                                                                                    take on style, much in the spirit of Daily Candy.
fake and have drawings.” Plus, Richards noted,                                                                                                       “Paris is the capital of fashion and art
there’s an economic incentive, now more than                                                                                                     de vivre, and yet I found nothing on the net
ever. “Illustrators don’t require hair and makeup,                                                                                               that captured that,” she said. “This site is
a three-room suite and a private plane [to                                                                                                       about sharing the real Parisienne’s Paris, her
produce an advertisement or editorial story]. We                                                                                                 lifestyle, fashion outlook, bistros, boutiques
just put our stuff in a little bag and we go and                                                                                                 and addresses. It reflects the insider’s world.”
do our work and come home.” — Nick Axelrod                                                                                                           Run by four full-time staffers with
                                                                                                                                                 contributions from about a dozen freelancers,
PRINT IT: Variety’s new editor in chief Tim                                                                                                      the site will partner with Atelier des Chefs
Gray spoke out Monday about modernizing                                                                                                          for the “recipe of the week” section starting
the 104-year-old Hollywood trade journal, but                                                                                                    in May; also in the works are features by
                                                   Clockwise from top left: Works by Alvaro, Bil Donovan, Kenneth Paul Block
“modern” in his parlance still includes the                                                                                                      actresses, fashion insiders and other high-
                                                   and Michael Vollbracht.
print medium. “You have to keep changing to                                                                                                     visibility Parisians. Within its first week, the
stay on track, but personally I think print won’t go away.” Gray said the paper is turning          Web site drew 2,000 subscriptions to its newsletter and 800 unique users daily. Roger-
a profit, so there are no immediate plans to shutter the daily or weekly editions in favor          Vasselin-Constantinoff hopes to boost that to 10,000 unique users daily and turnover of
of the online version. “Our goal is to give them different identities because they have             $1.5 million, mainly generated by advertising and commissions from online partnerships,
different audiences,” he said. On the changing Hollywood scene, he said, “I do find it really by spring 2010. Funded by its founder and private investors including Olivier Dassault, Do It
fascinating that the whole world has become more Hollywood obsessed, so you can’t go                in Paris counts Dior Beauté among its first advertisers (for Miss Dior Chérie). — Tina Isaac




                                         introducing


                                         WWDChina Week in Review
                                        女性时装日报每周要闻回顾
                                         GLOBAL REACH. REGIONAL RELEVANCE. DIGITAL DELIVERY.

                                         The week’s top stories in simplified and traditional Chinese
                                         Special focus on news impacting China
                                         New edition every Tuesday




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                                                                                                                                                            LYCRA® FIBER IS A TRADEMARK OF INVISTA.
14 WWD, tuesDay, april 7, 2009
                                                                                                                                                                                    WWD.COM
Financial                                                                                                            For full daily stock changes, see WWD.com.

Target, Ackman Wrangling Intensifies                                                         10 BEST PERfORmERS
By Evan Clark                                 strength, diversity, experience and                     DAILY       COMPANIES                        P/E      VOLuME            AMt
                                              qualifications to provide effective and
targEt Corp and aCtiviSt invES-
                .                             independent oversight and direction to           HIgH       LOw                                                             LASt %CHANgE
tor William ackman continued to trade         the company.”
blows on Monday about the size and                Shares of target fell 3.4 percent to
composition of the retailer’s board.          close at $35.45.                                1.36        0.67    General Growth (GGP)              7.2    46451658        0.97     34.72
   While the target battle took center            another company in ackman’s sights,
stage in retailing, renewed jitters about     general growth properties inc., rose
                                                                                              5.07        3.98    Zale (ZLC)                           -    2076488        4.76     14.42
the health of banks and the apparently        34.7 percent to 97 cents, although the
failed merger between technology gi-          beleagured real estate investment trust
ants international Business Machines          said it knew of no reason for the surge.        5.6         4.85    Penn Real Estate (PEI)               -      930626         5.6    14.29
Corp. and Sun Microsystems inc. drove         ackman has been buying shares of the
down the overall market and helped            debt-laden mall operator and could re-          1.94        1.50    Tandy Brands (TBAC)                  -        8850       1.94     14.12
trim retail shares 1.3 percent.               tain an ownership position in the event
   ackman, who heads pershing Square          of a bankruptcy.                                0.35        0.35    Sport-Haley (SPOR)                   -        1600       0.35     12.90
Capital Management and through it con-            the S&p retail index fell 4.17 points
trols 7.8 percent of target’s stock, sent a   to 310, which is still 38.9 percent above       3.4         2.84    CBL (CBL)                        20.0     2693966        3.37     12.33
letter urging shareholders to elect his       its March 6 low. falling back below
proposed slate of five directors — spe-       8,000, the dow Jones industrial average
cialists in the retail, real estate and       slid 0.5 percent, or 41.74 points, to
                                                                                              12.65      11.06    Weingarten (WRI)                  8.3     4876793       12.36      9.09
credit card areas. in a filing with the       7,975.85 as the iBM-Sun deal appeared
Securities and Exchange Commission            to falter. a pickup in mergers and acqui-       0.38        0.36    Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ)                3.5        36559       0.37      5.68
Monday, he described the board’s com-         sitions would be a positive sign for the
position as “suboptimal.”                     economy and one indication that price           7.45        6.55    Ramco-Gershenson (RPT)            5.4       176860       7.24      4.93
   the retailer shot back, asserting:         tags, at least for companies, had bot-
“the current target board has the             tomed out.                                      1.70        1.50    Bon-Ton (BONT)                       -       70491       1.64      4.46


Claiborne’s McComb Sees Pay Fall 13.4%                                                       10 WORST PERfORmERS
WilliaM MCCoMB, ChiEf ExECutivE offiCEr of liz ClaiBornE
inc., took a 13.4 percent pay cut last year, according to an annual filing with the                   DAILY       COMPANIES                        P/E      VOLuME            AMt
Securities and Exchange Commission.
    McComb’s total compensation of $5.5 million included a salary of $1.3 million,             HIgH       LOw                                                             LASt %CHANgE
the same as in 2007, and stock and option awards valued at $3.8 million. in 2007,
those awards paid $4.5 million.
    the former Johnson & Johnson executive, who has led Claiborne since 2006,                  8.29       7.25    Gildan Activewear (GIL)           8.6    11167329        7.79 -23.70
also received $127,200 for a company-provided apartment in new york, $13,360 for
private use of car services and a clothing allowance of $6,429.
    he hasn’t received non-equity incentive plan compensation in either of his two             0.33       0.29    Phoenix footwear (PXG)               -        1700       0.29 -17.14
full years with the company, according to the filing.
    Since taking the helm, McComb has worked to reinvent the business against                  4.41       3.70    Revlon (REV)                      2.2       322571       3.75 -16.85
a backdrop of a rapidly changing department store and retail landscape. in his
first year on the job, after splitting the company into two groups, one for partnered          0.73       0.58    General Growth (GGP)              3.1     5160575        0.62     -8.82
brands and the other for direct brands, he orchestrated the sale or closure of the
majority of 16 underperforming components of its portfolio. McComb hired isaac                 0.32       0.31    Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ)                3.4        36807       0.31     -8.15
Mizrahi to remake the firm’s flagship brand, worked to support names such as Juicy
Couture and Kate Spade and, in february, turned over Claiborne’s sourcing opera-
tions to li & fung.
                                                                                               11.56     10.24    True Religion (TRLG)              6.9       678793      10.78     -7.23
    in the fiscal year ended Jan. 3, Claiborne posted a $951.8 million loss, after writ-
ing down $683.1 million in goodwill related to legacy acquisitions. net sales for              7.92       7.35    Hanesbrands (HBI)                 6.0     2482232        7.49     -7.19
continuing operations dropped 10.3 percent to $3.99 billion.
    among the firm’s other top executives, andrew Warren, executive vice presi-                0.28       0.26    frederick’s of Hollywood (fOH)       -       14580       0.26     -7.14
dent and chief financial officer, saw his pay increase 1.1 percent to $1.3 million in
2008. david Mctague, executive vice president of partnered brands, logged a 14.8               1.60       1.30    Parlux fragrances (PARL)         20.9       154467       1.35     -6.25
percent rise in compensation to $1.2 million. Both executives joined the company
in mid-2007.                                                                                   4.46       4.05    CBL (CBL)                         9.1     1522406        4.28     -6.14
                                                                                 — E.C.
                                                                                           * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on

Winona Capital Buys Peter Millar                                                           the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss
                                                                                           francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros.

By Brenner Thomas                             ternational markets. Sources estimate

golf and luxury apparEl MaKEr
peter Millar has a new majority owner.
                                              the company’s annual volume at between
                                              $25 million and $35 million.
                                                 “this company has shown steady
                                                                                           Aronsson Group in Joint Venture With AKS
   the Sea island Co., the family-owned       growth, has a solid distribution base        By Marc Karimzadeh                                 istanbul to discuss how we could work
real estate corporation that manages          and product that consumers love,” said                                                          together, to become reacquainted with
the Cloister resort in georgia, has sold      luke reese, Winona’s managing direc-         Building on a portfolio that                       retail in turkey.”
its 60 percent stake in peter Millar to       tor. “this year is a tough year for in-      includes stakes in Matthew Williamson,                While there, he also met many of her
Winona Capital Management, a Chicago-         vestment but when companies like this        ginny h. and Casall, aronsson group                friends and clients in fields such as inter-
based investment group.                       come up you have to buy when they are        formed a joint venture partnership                 national textiles, production, department
   terms were not disclosed, but the          for sale.”                                   with istanbul-based retail consultancy             and specialty store retailing, real estate
cash deal leaves 40 percent of the               While reese said Winona will              firm aKS.                                          and food.
company in the hands of the brand’s           adopt a hands-off approach to manag-            as part of the agreement, the venture,             aronsson said although it is too early
two managing principals, founder              ing the brand, the firm will help peter      called a&a group, aims to create new re-           to disclose specific plans for a&a, he
Chris Knott and chief executive offi-         Millar ramp up its overseas distribu-        tail concepts and expand the distribution          hopes it will yield “new innovative con-
cer Scott Mahoney.                            tion. licensing deals or joint partner-      for aronsson’s portfolio brands with stra-         cepts for sustainable retailing, market-
   “With Winona we found a partner            ships in asia and Europe could be            tegic partners. aronsson group co-found-           ing, and global expansion.”
who didn’t want to change our strategy,”      inked by mid-summer. “there’s sig-           er Jeffry aronsson completed the details              linking Europe and asia, he said
said Mahoney. “they’ve embraced the           nificant upside for this brand abroad,”      in istanbul, where he met with aKS prin-           turkey offers opportunity even in
management and our goals.”                    reese added.                                 cipal nur akgerman last week.                      this difficult global economic climate.
   launched eight years ago, peter               Mahoney said the Cary, n.C.-based            aronsson said he first met akgerman             however, aronsson stressed he was
Millar’s mix of fairway-friendly sports-      company is continuing to post good           12 years ago in istanbul, when aronsson            primarily drawn to akgerman’s “busi-
wear and moderately priced styles for         numbers at home. the brand added 60          was chief executive officer of oscar de            ness and retail acumen coupled with a
men and women is sold to about 300 spe-       new doors for fall and is projected to       la renta, and she was ceo of Beymen                deep and extensive international busi-
cialty stores and nearly 1,000 green grass    top 2008’s results this year.                department Store group.                            ness network.”
and resort shops around the country.             Winona Capital, which has more               “as the aronsson group business de-                “turkey is the crossroads of the
   according to Mahoney, the brand has        than $125 million under management,          veloped, i began a dialogue with Ms.               Western and Eastern cultures and trade,”
built on double-digit annual sales growth     also has stakes in truefitt & hill, a line   akgerman from which we both recog-                 aronsson noted. “add to this almost 30
and in the last 18 months has expanded        of men’s grooming products; Boloco, a        nized the synergies of our abilities, ex-          million tourists per year, and it is a great
into new categories, such as men’s tai-       Mexican restaurant concept, and Balle        perience, relationships and projects,” he          potential window for businesses looking
lored clothing and furnishings, and in-       de Match, a maker of tennis apparel.         noted. “i was invited by Ms. akgerman to           to do business locally and beyond.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                    WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 15
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            WWD.COM


Etiqueta Negra Brings Fast Lane to NYC Italy Vows to Rebuild After Quake
                                                                                                                                                        By Alessandra Ilari
By Sharon Edelson
                                                                                                                                                        AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE IN CENTRAL ITALY THAT KILLED
NEW YORK — The Argentine jet-set lifestyle is on                                                                                                        more than 150 people and left tens of thousands homeless, Prime
display at Etiqueta Negra’s new flagship in SoHo.                                                                                                       Minister Silvio Berlusconi said Monday the government would
   Fast cars and polo are pillars of the Etiqueta                                                                                                       provide the funds to rebuild.
Negra concept, conceived by Federico Alvarez                                                                                                               Berlusconi, who declared a state of emergency and canceled a
Castillo, who is married to Paula Cahen d’Anvers,                                                                                                       trip to Moscow, said, “There will be no problems concerning the
designer of the women’s collection. The two-                                                                                                            economic expense because the government has already activated
level, 6,000-square-foot unit at 273 Lafayette Street,                                                                                                  the European fund for catastrophes.”
Etiqueta Negra’s first store in the U.S., is projected                                                                                                      The 6.3 magnitude temblor, which struck about 3:30 a.m.
to do $3 million in sales in its first year, according                                                                                                   Monday and could be felt in Rome, more than 60 miles southwest,
to a spokesman.                                                                                                                                         triggered major damage in medieval hill towns in the Abruzzo re-
   Alvarez Castillo, who has one of the largest col-                                                                                                    gion. It was centered in L ’Aquila, which is nestled under the Gran
lections of classic cars in the world, rotates autos                                                               A red Alfa Romeo is                  Sasso, the highest peak of the Apennines.
from the collection between each of his 11 stores                                                             parked on the main floor.                     At least 1,500 people were injured and rescue teams were
in Argentina. A red Thirties Alfa Romeo greets                                                                                                          searching the rubble.
shoppers entering the SoHo unit. Other props in-                                                                                                           The Ministry of Internal Affairs in Rome said it was too early to esti-
clude an old Texaco oilcan, rowing oars and a car                         “We made all these plans before the recession,”                               mate the damage caused by the quake, the worst to hit Italy since 2002.
dashboard. Walls are painted black and there’s a                      the spokesman said. “In Argentina, we’re always                                      The region’s resources primarily stem from a few industrial plants,
tin coffered ceiling.                                                 in recession. We’re doing well there despite the                                  agriculture and tourism. However, there are a few fashion companies,
   An owner of Ellerstina, Argentina’s top-ranked                     crisis. We’re working on wholesaling in the U.S.”                                 including Brioni, whose managers couldn’t be reached for comment.
polo club, Alvarez Castillo devotes a section of                          Etiqueta Negra believes in selling timeless                                      Upscale knitwear firm Gran Sasso’s 400,000-square-foot head-
each store to authentic apparel for playing polo or                   pieces “that will be in your closet forever,” the                                 quarters is located less than 40 miles from the earthquake’s
watching a match. Aside from polo-specific attire,                     spokesman said. A classically tailored white cot-                                 epicenter. “We were all woken up in the middle of the night by
Etiqueta Negra, which means black label or black                      ton coat is $720; black pants, $220, and a women’s                                trembling walls and a deafening noise; it was so strong we felt the
tie, offers casual clothing with little in the way of                 dress shirt with epaulets, $220. The large selec-                                 epicenter could be very close,” said Carlo Di Stefano, marketing
decoration and minimal logos.                                         tion of leather items includes a black leather jack-                              director of Gran Sasso. “Our initial reaction was to send knitwear
   The company touts the quality of its products:                     et with stitching detail on the shoulders, $1,200; a                              to the victims who were left with nothing, but we also intend on
boots made by Casa Fagliano, which serves Prince                      leather blazer, $1,200; a black leather zipper jack-                              making a donation to a local humanitarian association.”
Charles and the British Royal Family, Argentine                       et, $700, and a buttery leather jacket with pockets                                  Di Stefano, said he was worried about clients and small retail-
leather for jackets and Peruvian pima cotton for polo                 in black, beige or dark brown, $1,400. There are                                  ers in L’Aquila. “Our commercial offices have been trying to reach
shirts. Much of the apparel is manufactured in Italy.                 basics such as cotton T-shirts and tanks, two jeans                               them but without success.”
   The company plans to open another Manhattan                        styles and black or white mock-turtleneck sweat-                                     A spokesman for Sixty Group, with headquarters in Chieti,
store before year’s end and is eyeing Fifth Avenue                    ers. The tightly edited selection of handbags and                                 about 60 miles from L  ’Aquila, said the staff, including co-founders
and Madison Avenue. A unit at the Aventura Mall                       shoes includes lizard boots, $800; clutches, $600,                                Renato Rossi and Wichy Hassan, was in “shock.” The company
in Miami is scheduled to bow in 2010.                                 and lizard belts with horn buckles, $340 to $380.                                 didn’t suffer any damage.


                                                                                                                                                                                                                            WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS




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                                                                                 ment or fashion accessory co. required. Will TECH DIR/LARGE SIZE $130K+++             develop & drive the business. Fax or email
                                                                                   report to Director of Finance of           Better Collection. Sprvs 5. Must come    resume & cover letter to: (315)364-8075
                                                                                  $100 mill volume co. Midtown co.              from Lg Size Bet Contemp Mkt.            applicant@mackenzie-childs.com
                                                                                JARALINC@comcast.net 973-564-9236 ToddWayne1@aol.com or 212-947-3400
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 SALES-SWEATERS
                                                                                                                                                                                                              Vertical sweater co. seeks sales pro for
                                                                                                                                                                                                              Junior & Missy Sweaters. Must have
                                                                                                                                                                                                              strong contacts w/Dept. Stores, Chains,

                          Search hundreds of                                        positions in fashion, retail and beauty.
                                                                                                                                                                                                              Majors, & Catalogs. Min 5 yrs exp.
                                                                                                                                                                                                              Send resume: sweatersales@gmail.com




                                                                                                                                                                                                                  FREELANCE (or FT) EXPERT
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      PLANNING DIRECTOR
                                                                                                                                                                                                              Walmart, Target, Sears, JCPenney,
                                                                                                                                                                                                              Kohls, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, and
                                                                                                                                                                                                              Federated. Has your recent downsize
                                                                                                                                                                                                              left you short staffed? Or are you a
                                                                                                                                                                                                              small company that has secured an ac-
                                                                                                                                                                                                              count w/major retailer? 12 yrs exp. in
                                                                                                                                                                                                              building planning depts. Analysis/
                                                                                                                                                                                                              allocate/ manage replenishment pro-
                                                                                                                                                                                                              grams. Planning, forecasting, sales
                                                                                                                                                                                                              analysis. Email: EXPLNR@aol.com
AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ™ Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Cotton Incorporated, 2008.

				
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