MEN'S: s FASHION: BEAUTY: Value s Models and Z Zegna For cosmetics NEWS: moving more, brand Jane & Cavalli inks athletes runway new licensing behaving show to see Company files badly, for Chapter 11, deal with Milan, WWD.com. Ittierre, page 5. page 3. s page 9. page 2. s WWDTUESDAY Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • April 7, 2009 • $3.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Shock Value At the moment, fun, colorful, rich looks have even more appeal than straight-up luxe. Take furs, for instance, in all those easy shapes and brazen neon shades. Here, Michael Kors’ shocking pink shredded fox coat worn with a Kors turtleneck and belt. For more furs, see pages 6 and 7. Powers of Persuasion: PhOTO BY ThOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: JULES/ONE; hAIR BY DANIELLE IRENE FOR ARTISTSBYTIMOThYPRIANO; MAKEUP BY MIZU FOR SUSAN PRICE; FAShION ASSISTANT: KAYLA PASSONS; STYLED BY BOBBI qUEEN Europe’s Luxury Brands Try the Personal Touch By Miles Socha With even wealthy consumers skittish about spending during the financial crisis, Europe’s luxury players are fast becoming expert event planners. Leveraging their store networks and customer databases, brands are plotting more frequent and varied in-store efforts to boost traffic and coax open pocketbooks. Tactics range from standard trunk shows and giveaways to temporary stores and limited edition products to break through what executives describe as a psychological barrier to discretionary spending. “There are still people with money, but we have to talk to them differently,” said Valérie Hermann, chief executive officer at Yves Saint Laurent. “It’s about having a relationship See Europe’s, Page 8 2 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 WWD.COM Just Cavalli Extends License With Ittierre By Andrew Roberts MILAN — Roberto Cavalli has signed a new five-year license with Ittierre SpA for his Just Cavalli label. equivalent of Chapter 11 bankruptcy protec- tion in February after running out of cash. Just Cavalli is the biggest license for Isernia, Molise, Italy-based Ittierre, generating 2007 revenues of about 240 million euros, or $329 million, and is WWDTUESDay FASHION Ready-to-Wear/Textiles The deal, confirming a report in WWD on Friday, covers production and distribution for highly profitable. Ittierre’s other licenses include C’N’C Costume National, Galliano, VJC Versace 6 Designersa are showing their tossesside this sea- son with neon palette that bright subtle luxury Just Cavalli men’s and women’s apparel, shoes and Versace Sport. Ittierre employs 772 people. to the winds of winter. and accessories. It runs through the fall-winter “The agreement with Cavalli confirms 2014 collections and cancels outstanding finan- Ittierre’s great international value and opera- GENERAL cial obligations tied to the previous agreement, tional capability,” said Ittierre’s administrators, both parties said Monday. The contract is subject Andrea Ciccoli, Stanislao Chimenti, and Roberto 1 With evenin the financial crisis,skittish about spending wealthy consumers Europe’s luxury to government and court approval. Spada. “We are very pleased to be able to renew players are becoming expert event planners. The renewal marks a U-turn for Cavalli, the partnership with a brand of such enormous who blamed Ittierre for having to call off Just global renown, great commercial success and de- 2 Uniqlo is opening its first store in Singapore on Thursday in the suburban Tampines district, the Cavalli’s fall-winter runway show in February, velopment potential as Just Cavalli. In moments citing delays, substandard production and 20 like the present, the market needs the positive first of eight planned for the city-state. energy and creativity that the designer and the million euros, or $26.5 million, in unpaid roy- alties. At the time, Cavalli said he was talking maison have always been able to represent.” 3 Louis Vuitton,foundationcreating ais giving a pre- designed art which is in Paris, Frank Gehry- to other potential partners, including Renzo Sources credited Ittierre’s de facto chief ex- view of its treasures at a Hong Kong exhibition. Rosso’s Staff International, and could even take ecutive officer Ciccoli, a former partner at con- Just Cavalli’s production in-house. Cavalli’s re- sultancy firm Bain & Co., with convincing Cavalli 9 TEXTILES: fabric firms to cut prices in Hong Kong pressured Buyers at Interstoff Asia and allow marks led Ittierre to threaten legal action. that Ittierre was best-placed to build Just Cavalli Dollar figures were converted at average ex- globally. Just Cavalli generates an estimated smaller orders given the global recession. change rates for the periods to which they refer. 70 percent of revenue in Italy and the rest of 10 their carbon footprints, conservefor ways andlower GREEN: Companies are looking to s Cavalli said Monday his young line had been Europe. The new deal includes a worldwide energy suffering from “just a bit of a fever” and “sea- marketing and communications plan. identify ethical sourcing partners. sonal ills” and would return to the runway with The license extension is the second major the spring-summer 2010 collections. “Now [Just Cavalli] is very healthy and very achievement for the administrators, who se- cured a 30 million euro, or $39.7 million, line 14 FINANCIAL:13.4 percent pay cut last year, earning Inc., took a William McComb, ceo of Liz Claiborne strong,” he said. “It will very much upset those of credit from five Italian banks at the end of compensation of $5.5 million. who were hoping for the worse.” February, allowing Ittierre to restart its engines The deal is expected to strengthen Cavalli’s and continue day-to-day operations. EYE position in negotiations with Clessidra SGR SpA. He is in talks with the private equity firm to sell With Cavalli on board, the administrators are expected to step up efforts to renew agreements A look from 4 The Ronson clanon the Sunsetboisterous bashof at Bar Marmont headlined a Strip in honor Loomstate for a 20 percent stake in his namesake fashion com- with other licensors before addressing Ittierre’s Charlotte Ronson’s new fashion line. Barneys Green. pany. The designer met representatives from the parent company, IT Holding SpA. fund last Tuesday, when they laid out what he IT Holding, which owns the Gianfranco Ferré, described as an “interesting plan.” Malo and Extè brands, followed its production Classified Advertisements.................................................................................................15 In addition, the new pact signals a turn- and licensing unit into administration at the end To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is ing point for Ittierre, which filed for the Italian of February. firsTname.lasTname@fairchildpub.com, using The individual’s name. WWD IS A ReGISteReD tRADeMARK oF ADVANCe MAGAZINe PUBLISHeRS INC. CoPYRIGHt ©2009 . FAIRCHILD FASHIoN GRoUP ALL RIGHtS ReSeRVeD. PRINteD IN tHe U.S.A. Uniqlo Enters Southeast Asia VOLUME 197, NO. 72. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage By Ong Soh Chin here. The Japanese company holds 51 percent paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. of Uniqlo’s Singapore operations, and Wing Tai Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 PoStMASteR: SeND ADDReSS CHANGeS .O. SINGAPORE — Uniqlo is expanding its global reach. Retail controls 49 percent. .o. to WoMeN’S WeAR DAILY, P Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FoR SUBSCRIPtIoNS, ADDReSS The Japanese brand will open its first store “The Singapore stores will be Uniqlo’s first in CHANGeS, ADJUStMeNtS, oR BACK ISSUe INQUIRIeS: Please write to WWD, P Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA .O. here on Thursday. The 8,700-square-foot unit a tropical country. And therefore…will be a good 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all is in Tampines, a suburban residential district way for Uniqlo to find out more about the buy- editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. in the Eastern part of the island. It’s the first of ing patterns and habits of consumers in hotter For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online eight Uniqlo stores planned for the city state. A climates,’’ Yanai said. at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services This would facili- that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please tate Uniqlo’s eventual .O. advise us at P Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT For more on Uniqlo, expansion into India RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, see WWD.com. and the Middle East, regions where it has UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY yet to introduce its WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE formula of high-qual- ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. DAILY “There are still people ity yet reasonably priced candy-colored basics, he said. Uniqlo also plans a move into Malaysia. “Our focus now for QUote with money, but we have to talk to them differently. ” the next three years will be Singapore be- fore we think of open- ing in other countries — Valérie Hermann, chief executive officer, [in Southeast Asia],” Yves Saint Laurent. Page one. said Satoshi Onoguchi, Uniqlo’s Uniqlo’s Singapore Singapore managing director. TODAY ON WWD unit. Executives seemed unfazed by the global 10,000-square-foot space is set for August at the economic crisis. “What we have always provided Orchard Ion, a luxury mall set to take a prime is sensibly priced clothing,” said Albert Chew, spot on Singapore’s premier shopping street. co-managing director of Uniqlo Singapore. “And Six more stores are planned in the next three in a recession, we believe even more customers years with the third one to be announced once will be focusing on value for their money.’’ negotiations are completed. The brand, which recently hired German de- Singapore is Uniqlo’s first Southeast Asian outlet. It was picked as a launchpad into the region because of its strategic location and its signer Jil Sander to oversee its men’s and wom- en’s apparel collections, has 836 stores in Japan as well as the U.S., U.K., France, China, Hong .com reputation as a retail hub. Kong and South Korea. • More photos from the “We want to be number one in every country The Singapore stores will carry the brand’s fa- Charlotte Ronson-J.C. Penney we enter,” Tadashi Yanai, chairman, president mous UT T-shirts — a range of limited edition de- party and the Manhattan and chief executive officer of Uniqlo parent Fast signer Ts — as well as its popular denim range. PHoTo By y STEFANIE KEENAN Retailing Co. Ltd., said at a news conference Sander’s first collection for Uniqlo, which will be fete for artist Zeng Fanzhi here Monday. “Asia is a priority for us because released in September, will be sold in Singapore. • Additional images it is a huge market, even more so when one in- “We will stock the Singapore stores with al- from the Louis Vuitton cludes China and India, which have the largest most everything that is available in our Japan Hong Kong exhibit populations. If we become number one there, we stores,” Onoguchi said. “The only difference is Sting at Charlotte would be number one in the world.’’ that we will probably bring in a smaller propor- Ronson’s party. • Global breaking news Fast Retailing has linked with a local partner tion of our fall-winter collections. • Daily stock prices WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 3 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS OSCAR TAKE TWO: First Lady Michelle Obama’s apparent fondness for European designer labels has raised a few eyebrows Stateside, range compared with J. Crew’s $298 crystal constellation cardigan — or $650 for eBay shoppers as of Monday. Wedding Belle it’s not oFten that a BriDaL Designer wiLL Liken her Dresses to especially in Manhattan’s Garment Center, pajamas — but, then again, not many bridal designers are like natalie chanin of where business is through the basement and L&T PICKS UP LIZ: Five years after Lord & alabama chanin. “you need to feel beautiful but also comfortable,” says chanin, some American fashion flag-waving could only Taylor dropped the Liz Claiborne brand, ou who launches her first bridal collection, the wedding, this week. “y shouldn’t be help the cause. the better-priced collection is back in favor afraid that your bra’s going to show or be picking at your dress while you’re stand- When informed that the First Lady had with the retailer. L&T chief executive officer ing in front of everyone. it should be something that sits on you like a pajama.” worked a few Europeans into her wardrobe of Brendan Hoffman confirmed now that the that comfort-driven mind-set is nothing new, of course, for those already familiar late — Alaïa, Moschino, Etro — Oscar de la brand has relaunched with Isaac Mizrahi as its with chanin’s work. in 2001, she launched project alabama, famous for its cotton gar- Renta said at his bridal show Monday: “Our designer this spring, L&T — which dropped ments handmade by artisans in her hometown of Florence, alabama. and she didn’t industry right now is having a very difficult time. the brand in 2004 as the retailer tried to skip a beat when, in 2007, she split with her partner and lost the rights to the label’s I think it would be great if the First Lady dressed reposition itself more upscale – is “launching name; later that year, she launched alabama chanin, which works with the very in American styles. There are a lot of talented it in a big way in fall and hopes to have some same quilters and stitchers. “we’re already set up people here too.” limited doors this spring. For us it’s a brand A look for custom orders,” says chanin, who is also hold- Some of De la Renta’s comments in WWD that’s always resonated with our customer, and from The ing a trunk show for her signature collection at last week drew a fair amount of media heat, now that it’s been relaunched with Isaac, I’ve Wedding Barneys new york on wednesday. “every piece in particular a criticism of Obama’s choice of heard great things, and think it will be a great by Alabama we make [for the main line] is cut and sewn by a black-and-white dress and cardigan to meet addition,” said Hoffman. Chanin. hand, whether we’re making one piece or 200.” Queen Elizabeth II. But de la Renta said his still, entering the bridal market wasn’t an ob- critics chose to overlook the favorable things STILA SALE?: Reports are circulating vious move for the designer. “i’m not sure why it he said about Obama’s fashion sense. “Look, throughout the market that a sale could took us so long,” she says, noting it was her re- she has such great looks if she put on a potato be near for beauty brand Stila, founded cent spring lineup that put those nuptial gears sack, she would look great.” by Jeanine Lobell in 1994 and owned by in motion. “spring was inspired by ceremonial While the European response to the Sun Capital Partners since 2006. (The dresses, so we did a lot of white looks. it just First Lady has been practically giddy, a Estée Lauder Cos. owned the brand from kind of developed from that.” few naysayers emerged. Tyler Brûlé, for 1999 to 2006.) The company’s Web the 50-piece wedding collection, which in- example, wrote in The Financial Times’ site, stilacosmetics.com, has been under cludes long V-neck gowns, tunic dresses, skirts weekend edition, “…Someone needs to tell construction “for routine maintenance” with a and tanks, as well as matching vests and jackets, Michelle Obama that there’s a time and note that orders placed on March 23 or March continues in the same folksy vein. everything place for bare arms and it’s not on an early 24 might be canceled. Calls to the brand’s comes cut in her trademark organic cotton jer- spring evening at a rather important global Glendale, Calif. headquarters — placed at sey and, chanin proudly notes, is machine wash- conference in London.” 3 p.m. Pacific time — were answered with able. But she doesn’t sacrifice elaborate design Even pundits on Chris Matthews’ show a recording noting the company’s normal for ease of care (and wear). the garments, Sunday weighed in on the First Lady’s style, business hours were from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. priced from $150 to $4,000 wholesale, are embel- praising her (inaccurately) for wearing J. Monday through Friday. Sun Capital Partners lished with visible stitching, reverse appliqués, Crew to meet the Queen. The cardigan she and Stila’s senior management, including beading, stencilwork and embroidery galore — wore was actually from the French designer chief executive Deanna Kangas, did not the artsy-craftsy techniques core to her clothes. Azzedine Alaïa, which retails in the four-digit respond to calls for comment. “when you’re looking at the wedding market, i think we have something truly different to offer, something that’s outside the norm,” says chanin. Vuitton Art Exhibit Set for Hong Kong “the dresses we make, they’re heirloom pieces.” she adds that clients can also customize their own garments — pairing a silhouette with an embroidery pattern from the alabama chanin By Miles Socha archives — or rework them into similar styles for bridesmaids or flower girls. photo by kyle ericksen Louis Vuitton, which is constructing a permanent, Frank gehry- and yet another bonus: in keeping with her designed art foundation in paris, is giving a preview of some of its treasures with an sustainable sensibility, chanin is able to overdye ambitious exhibition in hong kong. the pieces after the big day. “i know a lot of peo- “Louis Vuitton: a passion for creation” is slated to run from may 22 to aug. 9 at ple save their wedding dress for life,” she notes. the hong kong museum of art. it recounts the French luxury firm’s long association “this way, they can wear it more than once.” with the art world, from the art Deco designers who collaborated with the founder’s — Venessa Lau grandson on trunks to more recent hook-ups on leather goods with contemporary art stars such as takashi murakami and richard prince. a press event is scheduled for today at the hong kong museum where Jean- Baptiste Debains, president of Louis Vuitton asia-pacific, and chung Ling-hoi, an BEAUTY BEAT Jane Files for Bankruptcy official from hong kong’s Leisure and cultural services Department, A model of the Louis Vuitton will sign a letter of intent and provide Foundation by Frank Gehry. details of the expo, billed as a star at- traction during hong kong’s 17th an- By Andrea Nagel Jane’s senior secured lender that will nual French may arts Festival. the allow it to operate in chapter 11, the city is angling to become a new art Jane & company, a VaLue-ori- firm said. Derek c. abbott and Daniel hub in asia. ented cosmetics brand with annual B. Butz of the wilmington law firm of the site-specific exhibition will revenues of about $25 million, filed for morris, nichols, arsht & tunnell, LLp , include some works that reflect the reorganization monday under chapter represent the debtors. complexity and energy of the host 11 of the u.s. Bankruptcy code. Drew mcmanigle was named chief city, including a film titled “central” Baltimore-based Jane, which is sold restructuring officer several weeks ago by French artist Dominique gonzales- by mass merchants and drugstores, and is leading Jane’s reorganization ef- Foerster, along with works by seven said the filing in wilmington, Del., forts. y arnell, Jane’s chief executive of- young local artists. was “due to significant cash liquidity ficer, is serving in an advisory role. selections from Vuitton’s perma- issues faced by Jane arising from the after months of speculation, the fil- nent collection also will be on dis- economic crisis that affected retail ing “really is not a surprise to many play, including large-scale works customers nationwide.” people,” mcmanigle told wwD. “But i by the likes of Jeff koons, andreas court documents detailed assets do think with the fresh start provision gursky, pierre huyghe, gilbert & of between zero and $50,000, and li- it will give Jane an opportunity to come george and Jean-michel Basquiat, abilities of between $1 million and $10 out on the other side of this process.” plus videos from rosemarie trockel, million. Listed among the top 30 unse- he said the firm’s debtor-in-posses- wolfgang tillmans, ange Leccia, cured creditors were: topline products sion financing commitment will allow philippe parreno, Zhou tao and ryan co. inc., wayne, n.J., $1.7 million; Jane the company to run and fill orders and trecartin, among others. holdings LLc, new york, $947,096; get it into a “business as usual scenar- a scale model of gehry’s glass, garrett-hewitt international (n.y.) inc., io” at least through June. cloudlike building will travel to hong wilton, conn., $474,106; Dmi, wharton, “we will try to fast-track this; the kong, along with a video interview with n.J., $381,309, and unique Display longer you operate in chapter 11,” the the famous architect. Vuitton broke corp., Freeport, n.y., $336,017. worse the outcome for the company, ground on the project last year at the Five equity holders with preferred mcmanigle said, alluding to a possible Jardin d’acclimatation in the Bois de and common stock were named in the sale of Jane. Bologne in paris, and is aiming to open bankruptcy petition: walnut private on Feb. 28, Jane alerted suppliers the foundation in 2012. equity Fund, new york, holders of in a letter to its “major cash liquid- separately, Vuitton plans to publish a 30.69 percent stake; stone canyon ity crisis,” and how it was “unable a book this september with rizzoli Venture Fund, Los angeles, 30.66 per- to meet its current payment obliga- new york titled “Louis Vuitton: art, cent; Lisa yarnell, stamford, conn., tions.” the problems were attributed Fashion and architecture,” an anthol- 11.38 percent; hauser Davis tysoe to three factors, including a number ogy of the brand’s art projects and “Monkey Train” rorie i LLc, cincinnati, 18.51 percent, of discrepancies with a “major mass critical essays about its patronage by Jeff Koons. and omar karame, Beverly hills, calif., retailer,” late payments from retail- during what it describes as “one of 0.03 percent. ers as well as an aggressive December the most fertile periods of contempo- For more photos, see WWD.com. a debtor-in-possession financing new product launch. rary art and design.” commitment has been obtained from — With contributions from Vicki Young 4 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 WWD.COM The King and I left to live. decked out in mimelike makeup, pajamas and an orange wig, he grapples with physical and ex- istential decay, all the while flanked by his deadpan first wife Queen marguerite (Susan Sarandon) and his young, highly excitable second wife Queen marie (ambrose). “you’re given this extreme of emotion, so you not only have license but a necessity to go as far you can,” says ambrose, who spends the play vacillating between hysterical laughing and sobbing, all the while navigat- ing the stage in a velvet robe with a 12-foot-long train. “lauren is such a bold, daring and brave explorer,” says rush, who helped adapt the text and starred in its 2007 australian production. but even intrepid ac- tors meet limits, as ambrose found out when she had a particularly dangerous run-in with rush’s crown. “one day in rehearsal, i tore out a whole chunk of her hair,” rush recalls. “She yelped, and i said, ‘well, that will teach you for acting in my cranium.’ ” burdensome costumes aside, “exit the king” proved an intellectual challenge for ambrose, who pored over the original french text armed with a bi- lingual dictionary. “i’m a nerd. i like to get into the nitty gritty of all the words,” she says. it’s all par for the course for ambrose, who has been a working theater actress since she was 13. growing up in new haven, she discovered a passion for perform- ing and spent her middle-school summers audition- ing for broadway plays. one of her earliest jobs was Lauren Ambrose at Alice’s Tea Cup. in ned eisenberg’s “Soulful Scream of a chosen Son.” “it was all of these actors getting no money, and it was a walk-up theater and really cool,” recalls ambrose, you wouldn’t know it from her bright-eyed appearance who at 31 continues to exude the youthful energy of a college drama major. “for me on a chilly tuesday morning, but lauren ambrose has spent the bet- to be around people who were so passionate about their work, i was like, ‘wow, what ter part of the last month weeping. rivers of tears that streak her pale a great way to make your life.’” face with lines of running mascara. every night she confronts mortality though most recognized for her five seasons on hbo’s “Six feet under,” ambrose when her onstage husband in “exit the king” learns he will die by the has stomped her share of floorboards, as Juliet and ophelia in Shakespeare in the evening’s end. park productions and in lincoln center’s “awake and Sing!” later this year she will “i’m crying for two and a half hours straight,” says ambrose. “and then you leave appear opposite paul giamatti in the darkly comic film “cold Souls” and paul dano the stage door and people are like, ‘can we take your picture?’ and i’m thinking, ‘i’ve in Spike Jonze’s “where the wild things are.” never looked worse.’ i need a lot of eye cream.” “i often find myself taking jobs because they scare me,” she says. “i can’t imagine in the play, a revival of eugène ionesco’s 1962 absurdist work on now at the ethel doing only one kind of thing.” barrymore theatre, king berenger (geoffrey rush) learns he has only 90 minutes — Vanessa Lawrence EYE SCOOP CHINA PATTERN Zeng Fanzhi is a Chinese artist whose work looks “Portrait 08-7-2” kind of like a cross between Francis Bacon and Tim by Zeng Fanzhi. Burton. Last week, a smattering of art-world types and fashion folk showed up to fete him at the Acquavella Galleries on the Upper East Side before a dinner at Philippe on 60th Street. Despite the recession, the gallery sold nearly a dozen paintings at prices that ranged between $100,000 and $2 million each. “I’m very content,” said Fanzhi, speaking through his translator as guests Mark Ronson plays for mom Ann Dexter-Jones like Zhang Ziyi, Vivi Nevo and and sister Charlotte Ronson. Wendi Murdoch munched on steamed dumplings, spare ribs the SunSet Strip iS hardly a haven for and sautéed string beans. (Get families — unless it’s the multifaceted ronson it? Chinese artist, Chinese food.) clan, who headlined a boisterous bash hosted by But Murdoch said she was holding J.c. penney on friday at bar marmont in honor out on buying because the paintings of designing daughter Charlotte Ronson’s new were still awfully expensive. “I’m fashion line, i [heart] ronson. hoping to get the one I want at grammy-winning son Mark Ronson led an all- ambrose photo by talaya centeno; ronson party by steFanIe Keenan; FanZhI party by laUren FleIshman a better price,” she said with star band with Sam Sparro, Daniel Merriweather and a laugh. As for Ziyi, she was Alex Greenwald, while charlotte’s dJing twin, Sam, feeling a lot of pride for her fellow Drea de Matteo spun tunes. despite a broken foot, matriarch Ann countryman. “Whenever I have a and Nicole Richie. Dexter-Jones traveled to los angeles from movie here, someone else from Anna new york to cheer on her brood. China gets quoted saying, ‘I’m so Paquin the family’s unique pedigree of ce- proud of her as a Chinese person. lebrity, music and fashion drew It’s great for our country.’ Well, tonight all sorts of stars including Sting, I’m thrilled to say that as Trudie Styler, Jewel, Anna Paquin, a Chinese person, ‘I’m so Nicole Richie, Drea de Matteo, Zhang Ziyi proud of him.’” Go China! Shooter Jennings, Milla Jovovich, s Jeremy Piven, and dsquared’s Donna Dean and Dan Caten. Acquavella J.c. penney president Ken Hicks hoped the celebrities would set an ex- ample for middle america that “this is what a star can wear and what i can wear,” he said. (notable exceptions being three of the revelers — Paris Hilton, Kim Kardashian and Simon Rex — who shot to fame via sex tapes.) after guests helped them- selves to a gifting closet (dexter- Jones scooped up six outfits, including denim shorts and a Jeanne- sheer striped dress), rap Claude and Tinsley Mortimer group plastic little took Caption go s Milla Jovovich the stage and true to form Christo. this here for Zeng Fanzhi in a Chloé coat. in Diesel. let the f-bombs fly. WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 5 WWD.COM Pretty Girls and Bad Boys Models misbehaving? Athletes acting up? Hardly a new notion (see Evelyn Nesbit and the Black Sox). But seldom have such high-profile antics converged in one couple’s mutual faux pas. By now you’ve no doubt heard about Gisele and Tom’s “Shotgun Wedding,” as the New York Post called their Costa Rican vow-renewal on Sunday. (Whether the event was scheduled for the sake of guests absent the first time around or merely for the fiduciary opportunity to sell exclusive photos is unclear.) No, the Bradys weren’t the ones firing the shots, but the two heretofore known for impossible aesthetic perfection — and for good manners — are fast seeing their commingled wattage dim. So what better time than this particular moment in pop culture cross-referencing to look back on the singular bad behavior of some of Gisele’s and Tom’s infamous colleagues? — Sarah Haight and Jessica Iredale BRADY BY STEVE EICHNER; HUTTON BY STEPHANE FEUGERE; NESBIT BY A.S. CAmPBEll/GEORGE EASTmAN HOUSE/GETTY ImAGES; STEROIDS BY Al BEllO/GETTY ImAGES; SEYmOUR, EVANGElISTA BY RON GAlEllA, lTD./WIREImAGE; VICK BY JONATHAN ERNST/GETTY ImAGES; TYSON BY GEORGE TIEDEmANN/SPORTS IllUSTRATED/GETTY ImAGES Linda Evangelista: Charles Barkley: Barkley ROSE BY WAlTER IOOSS JR./SPORTS IllUSTRATED/GETTY ImAGES; BURRESS BY JEFF ZElEVANSKY/GETTY ImAGES; SARKOZY BY DOmINIqUE CHARRIAU/WIREImAGE; mOSS BY mATT KEEBlE/SPlASH NEWS; CAmPBEll BY lAWRENCE SCHWARTZWAlD/SPlASH NEWS; PHElPS BY JENNIFER mITCHEll/SPlASH NEWS; BARKlEY BY GIlBERT POlICE/SPlASH NEWS s Cubicle-dwellers ended 2008 with a bang everywhere took — almost. The former NBA note in 1990 when star was pulled over on New Evangelista summed Year’s Eve after blowing a up the working habits stop sign in Scottsdale, Ariz., of the supermodel set and charged with a DWI. His to Vogue’s Jonathan stated excuse: He was rushing Gisele Van Meter in one not- to receive oral sex from his Bündchen so-humble phrase: “We female passenger. He also and Tom don’t wake up for less asked the arresting officer Brady than $10,000 a day.” “to admit she was hot.” s Evelyn Nesbit: A long-ago troublemaking s temptress, artist’s model and chorus girl, Nesbit served as a star witness in 1906 at the trial of her husband, Harry Thaw, for the murder of her former lover, Stanford White. Her appearance made her a tabloid “It” girl, a status, alas, she couldn’t hold on to forever, and she faded into obscurity. Lauren Hutton: During an appearance on the “Today” show last year, Hutton, know since her heyday as outspoken and opinionated, weighed in on the depiction of women in “Sex and the City.” “It’s written by guys, who happen to be gay, who are sluts. That’s what I think,” she said, thereby alienating a sizable share of her fashion-industry colleagues. s Carla Bruni: Before she s became First Lady of s Plaxico Burress: During an evening of France, Carla Bruni was bad ideas — not to mention bad fashion — plenty adventurous in the Giants wide receiver shot himself in the matters of love. At one s Pete Rose: Rose found thigh with his unregistered Glock concealed point, she struck up himself banned from in the waistband of the sweatpants he wore s Naomi Campbell: The grande baseball (including the on a sojourn to the New York club Latin dame of model scandal, an affair with Raphael Enthoven, then married Hall of Fame, for which Quarter. Last week, Burress got a pink slip Campbell has a rap sheet longer he was a shoo-in) for from the Giants, making him a free agent. than her famous gams. After to Justine Lévy, the daughter of Bernard- betting on his own team He’s currently facing two counts of second- hurling her jewel-encrusted while managing the degree criminal possession of a weapon, cell phone at a housekeeper in Henri Lévy. Bruni and Enthoven have a son Cincinnati Reds. with a court hearing set for June 15. 2006, Campbell was supposedly reformed by a community- together, and Bruni has Mike Tyson: s service stint. Alas, last year she waved off rumors that Among the former was arrested again at Heathrow she was at one point heavyweight champ on suspicion of assaulting a involved with Enthoven’s and facial-tattoo police officer over a piece of lost father. And, oh yes: fan’s offenses were luggage. Now she’s banned from On the eve of her first threatening to eat British Airways for life. official state visit with Lennox Lewis’ President Nicholas children, taking a Sarkozy to Britain, a bite out of Evander nude photo of Bruni was Holyfield’s ear and, auctioned at Christie’s most seriously, for a cool $91,000. raping a 19-year- Stephanie Seymour: old woman, for s Axl Rose said fiancée which he served Seymour assaulted three years in him during a 1992 prison. Christmas party. She said he assaulted her and that they had never even been engaged. Seventeen years later, the two have only a “November Rain” video to commemorate their love. s Kate Moss: Fashion’s original waif got caught on a cell-phone camera sniffing a suspicious substance in 2005. Within days, s Michael Vick: Even before his dog-fighting and despite rushing into rehab, exploits, the former Atlanta Falcons star she was dropped by a number quarterback behaved badly enough to inspire the of high-profile clients, some of “Really?” segment of SNL’s Weekend Update. whom, including Chanel and After his July 2007 arrest and conviction for Burberry, rehired her. More running “Bad Newz Kennels” out of his 15-acre recently — last week — Kate s Michael Phelps: The s Steroid Studs: The roster of ill-repute includes Jason Giambi, Mark property in Surry County, Va., he was sentenced to was on best, if mute, behavior 16-time Olympic medalist McGwire, Roger Clemens, Jose Canseco, Barry Bonds (allegedly) and, 23-months in federal prison and will be released during a series of Topshop swam out of line when he most recently, Alex Rodriguez, who, as was very clear in a recent Details two months early to home confinement in May. festivities in New York, until was photographed at a party magazine piece, still loves himself anyway. finally they got the better of her. smoking out of a bong. He Obviously fed up with the photo subsequently was suspended The Black Sox: They were the Chicago White Sox until several members of the 1919 World Series-bound team, including ops, on Thursday night she from competition for three Arnold Gandil, Eddie Cicotte, Oscar Felsch, “Shoeless” Joe Jackson, Fred McMullin, George “Buck” Weaver, Charles Risberg shouted at a photographer to months and lost his deal and Claude “Lefty” Williams, conspired to throw the Series. They were all subsequently banned from baseball. “Give me a f---ing moment!” with Kellogg’s. 6 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 Dennis Basso’s dyed fitch duffle coat and leather belt. Andy & Debb’s blouse; Only Hearts’ turtleneck; Hue tights. ON Yes, there is a bright side. and designers are showing it this season THE with a neon palette that tosses subtle luxurY to the winds of winter. BrigHT — bobbi Queen SidE PHOTOS BY THOMAS iANNACCONE WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 7 WWD.COM Jerry Sorbara’s dyed s Swakara lamb paw jacket, trimmed in curly lamb, for Neiman Marcus. Rag & Bone’s dress; Badgley Mischka necklace; Michael Kors boots; Gestuz leggings. Chris Benz’s sheared mink peacoat and silk blouse. s Gilles Mendel’s dyed, Adrienne Landau’s knitted, hooded rabbit plucked mink coat and vest. Only Hearts’ turtleneck; Diesel dress for J.Mendel. leggings; Stuart Weitzman boots; jewelry Badgley Mischka bangle; and hair comb from Barbara Flood’s Closet; Emilio Cavallini tights; Dennis Basso belt. earrings from Barbara Flood’s Closet. MODEL: JULES/ONE; HAIR BY DANIELLE IRENE FOR ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO; MAKEUP BY MIZU FOR SUSAN PRICE; FASHION ASSISTANT: KAYLA PASSONS 8 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 WWD.COM Europe’s Luxury Players Get Personal Continued from page one with them directly. It’s not only sending them catalogues.” “Our philosophy is if you are in the true luxury business, the way to talk to custom- ers is one-to-one,” agreed Patrick Thomas, ceo of Hermès International. “This year we are going to refocus our activity in our stores in order to bring more customers in and devote attention to them. We’ve always done this, but we’re trying to intensify it.” Thomas estimated there is at least one event per day in a Hermès store somewhere in the world. These include exhibitions, cocktail parties and product demonstrations around speciﬁc products, including Hermès silk scarves and how to wear them. “The real focus for stores and for retail right now is to get trafﬁc that’s not associ- ated with sales,” said industry consultant Robert Burke of New York-based Robert Burke & Associates. “People are going to get creative.” Hermann said her focus is on “small, humble and efﬁcient” events with a focus on individuality in terms of services and special products “you shouldn’t miss.” For example, next month at Barneys New York, YSL will unveil a “new vintage” collection of iconic styles made of fabrics “recycled” from its inventories. And in June, in tandem with YSL parent PPR’s release of the documentary ﬁlm “Home” on World Environment Day June 5, the French house plans to create special products and give away free copies of the Yann Arthus-Bertrand movie on DVD. Ferragamo ceo Michele Norsa said six months ago he decided to shift a portion of marketing investments to in-store events to generate consumer interest, especially in this economic phase. “I think one must be creative when it comes to attracting consumers who are inun- dated with invites and are used to wine-and-cheese cocktails, using the brain more Jimmy Choo hosted than the wallet,” he said. “It’s important to tie a shopping event in oneself to cultural events, to charities, to link co-founder Tamara the brand to celebrities or to important events Mellon’s apartment. such as [Milan’s] Salone del Mobile,” which takes place later this month. Echoing other observers, Hermès’ Thomas In recent months in the U.S., Choo also partnered with the noted its customer-focused initiatives are decen- American Heart Association, Easter Seals and Ballet Florida tralized, and managers are pressed to ﬁnd “new to host shopping events for top clients and charity supporters. ways of talking about the product, the quality “Nothing can replace the personal one-on-one and the know-how” to assorted local markets. touch between our teams in the stores and the clients,” Hermès recently hosted an exhibition of Schulman stressed. quirky photos by Austrian artist Erwin Wurm Angela Ahrendts, ceo of Burberry, agreed customers in its Paris ﬂagship on the Rue du Faubourg want personal and specialized events, as compared with Saint-Honoré “and it brought in quite a few large-scale ones, which don’t seem “appropriate” in the people,” Thomas said. current climate. “They are an integral part of maintaining The images, which feature Hermès men’s our momentum, even in this downturn,” she said. wear and accessories, are now making a tour Last month, Burberry creative director Christopher of Hermès stores in the Chinese cities of Bailey hosted a men’s wear event at Barneys New York in Dalian, Shanghai and Beijing. Manhattan, which generated strong media attention, espe- Thomas also said Hermès would open three cially online. or four temporary stores this year — including a “With that kind of return on investment, of course we seasonal one in East Hampton, N.Y. — as anoth- er way to create an innovative shopping event. “ We see these the client, a way events as YSL opened a “pop-up” boutique for its Edition Unisex collection in downtown Manhattan for a week last February, which at- tracted some 2,000 customers. to get closer to deliver great customer service and build The brand just repeated the experiment in Hong Kong. “We not only generated turn- over, but attracted new customers as well,” Hermann noted. Joshua Schulman, ceo at Jimmy Choo, said a long-term relationship that will he’s increasing “high-touch” store-based hap- outlast the economic turbulence in ” penings, including charity events and styling workshops. “We see these events as a way to get closer the air. to the client, deliver great customer service — Joshua Schulman, Jimmy Choo and build a long-term relationship that will outlast the economic turbulence in the air,” are going to continue to invest in these type of events,” he explained. “We have found this to be an ef- A photo by Erwin Wurm, displayed in Hermès shops, features its men’s wear. Ahrendts said. fective strategy to reach out to established and The brand also hosted an event for its new Notting Hill new clients when trafﬁc is down in many shopping destinations.” children’s wear store to raise awareness for the Burberry Foundation and the young Late last year, Choo invited its top 80 U.K. clients to co-founder Tamara Mellon’s people it supports. Coming up next is a launch event for Burberry’s ﬂagship in Beijing, private residence in London for a trunk show, makeovers and assorted pampering, and multiple events program for its new stand-alone children’s wear stores globally. leading to orders in excess of 50,000 British pounds, or about $71,500 at current ex- “We are continuing to invest in training our retail staff to increase our level of ser- change. Teams are also organizing pop-up concessions at Harvey Nichols stores in vice to our customers and improving the luxury feel for the client at all levels, which Birmingham, Leeds, Bristol and Manchester to duplicate the “Choo experience.” also includes investing in our global visual merchandising,” Ahrendts said. “We are also reallocating resources into our new digital marketing strategy for more reach and doing multiple regional events, where we are able to engage the consumer in a much more impactful way.” John Hooks, deputy managing director at Giorgio Armani, said its stores are the principal location for trunk shows, cocktails, press and charity events, including one recently in London with the Chelsea soccer team, which the designer dresses. “A store can be considered as a mirror of a particular philosophy of style,” Hooks said. “While there, all the guests can in fact enjoy and literally experience the de- signer’s tastes and ideas. The best events are tailored — so red carpet gowns work well in Hollywood, soccer works well in Milan. Another activity that works well, we ﬁnd, is special private shopping hours for select clients.” Seeing a need to attract new and younger customers to its historic Hamburg loca- tion, Jil Sander recently held a small fashion show and cocktail party for 250 guests, which boosted trafﬁc from established and new clients for the week after. “Trafﬁc in the store seems to be the magic formula at this moment and we are evaluating cross marketing activities with luxury brands besides the fashion business to create additional excitement,” ceo Gian Giacomo Ferraris said. Prada recently hosted a series of events in which it invited prominent stylists to customize its windows, in addition to upping its trunk shows, special installations and windows. “All these events have an immediate return on the store’s sales but more in gener- al, they contribute in creating and renovating the consumer interest for the brand and its products, a beneﬁt that is tangible in the medium to long term,” a Prada spokes- man said. “We’re well aware that the most faithful clientele represents an essential A view of YSL’s pop-up shop in New asset to the brand, especially in difﬁcult market conditions.” York for its Edition Unisex line. — With contributions from Alessandra Ilari and Samantha Conti WWD, tuesDay, april 7, 2009 9 WWD.COM Textile & Trade Report Buyers Go Conservative at Interstoff Asia Joe Lin, general manager at Taiwan’s Sinberly Z Zegna to Show In Milan By Emilie Marsh By Andrea Li International, which exports organic cotton and recycled MILAN — Z Zegna is coming home. HONG KONG — Buyers bargain hunted their way through bamboo and charcoal to Europe, said the sourcing of eco The designer sportswear collection from the Interstoff Asia textile fair here, pressuring manufac- textiles has dwindled because it doesn’t make economic Italian men’s wear brand Ermenegildo Zegna is turers to cut prices and committing to smaller volumes as sense to buyers. moving its runway show to Milan from New York concerns about the global recession loomed large. “Many brands still have an interest in eco textiles, but starting in June, WWd has learned. Many of the 163 international exhibitors showing at they are not placing orders right now,” Lin said. For the past four seasons, Z Zegna has the three-day fair that ended March 20 said converting Manufacturers are taking an active approach to man- shown during New York Fashion Week and the buyer interest into orders was difficult, although event aging the downturn. Some are developing special-purpose Ermenegildo Zegna line hosts a runway presen- organizer Messe Frankfurt said visitor turnout was up 11 and innovative fabrics, while others are exploring ways of tation in Italy each season. percent to 7,000 from last autumn’s show. producing cheaper products for the mass market. gildo Zegna, Ermenegildo Zegna group chief “Everyone is shopping around these days to get the Japanese manufacturer Ishinco recently started pro- executive officer, described the move as “a stra- best deals, but there have not been too many orders,” said ducing its own specialty polyester fabric mix in a bid to tegic decision…to highlight Z Zegna’s individu- Kenny Chan, a sales representative at fabric manufactur- sharpen its competitive edge. It also has shifted some of al market position and identity” and increase er Top South International in Shanghai. “There has been its output in Japan to Chinese factories, where operating the label’s exposure to international buyers more buyer interest recently.” costs are on average 50 percent to 70 percent lower. and press. Nicola Mullen, a design manager at Mosaic Fashions, “There are two ways of weathering this downturn,” “I am adamant that the parent company of U.K. high street fashion brands said Fred Arai, Ishinco’s general manager. “You can ei- showing both Ermen- WWD egildo Zegna and Z Zegna in Milan will Attendance was further consolidate up 11 percent to the Ermenegildo 7,000 visitors. Zegna group as the Men’s global leader in the men’s wear industry,” he said. Launched in spring 2004, Z Zegna made its runway debut in New York in February 2007. The venue for Z Zegna’s spring-summer show has yet to be decided. Ermenegildo Zegna, which made its runway debut in January 2008, shows at its headquarters on via Savona. Z Zegna represents 15 percent of Ermen- egildo Zegna’s sales, which grew 8.3 percent photos by Gareth Jones to 843.3 million euros, or $1.16 billion at aver- age exchange, in 2007. Last year’s volume isn’t available. The luxury group is aiming for global sales of one billion euros by 2010 — the brand’s centen- nial. Ermenegildo Zegna counts 577 stores in 86 countries. Karen Millen, Warehouse, Oasis and Whistles, said it was ther evolve into the more specialized areas in order to Milan Fashion Week runs June 20 important to be realistic. set yourself apart, or reduce the production cost of your to 24. “It is crucial to look at fabrics that are relevant to the textiles for the mass market. We have done both.” season and on trend,” she said. “Rather than going for Top South International has created its own fabrics as For Zegna runway looks, see many different fabrics, it’s better to get five to six really well, mixing polyester and spandex, and is using new yarns. WWD.com. phenomenal ones. Less is more in this climate.” “We haven’t secured orders for the new items yet, Textile manufacturers, adversely impacted by the eco- but this is a way of building customer confidence,” nomic crisis, have seen order volumes fall 10 percent to 50 percent, and suppliers in China have resorted to cost Chan said. “We are signaling to customers that we are still in business.” Burberry Seeks to Void License With Hartmarx cutting in an effort to sustain business viability. Prospects for an economic recovery are uncertain, but Top South International closed its Hong Kong office well-positioned fashion brands and textile manufacturers earlier this year so it could cut prices 10 to 15 percent. said the downturn presents emerging market opportuni- “Everywhere in China, factories are cutting their profit ties, especially for eco textiles. BURBERRY IS SEEKINg TO vOId ITS TAI- margins,” Chan said. “With orders plummeting, there is no “Manufacturers with the financial capability of mov- lored clothing license with the bankrupt way businesses can survive if they don’t offer better prices ing into greener production should do it now, because Hartmarx Corp. to buyers who have become very price conscious.” this provides a competitive advantage,” said Pat Nie According to documents filed in the Northern Some manufacturers believe eco fabrics are likely to Woo, director of Hong Kong-based yarn producer Central district of Illinois bankruptcy court, Burberry be hit hardest because of the higher cost of production. Textiles. “It is an opportunity to move ahead of the game. Limited, a New York-based subsidiary of Executives at Sapphire, a vertically integrated textile To hold off, in my opinion, would be a mistake.” Burberry group plc, wants out of the license manufacturer based in Lahore, Pakistan, said organic Hans Buehr, Triumph International’s head of pur- Hartmarx has held since 1997, citing failure to fabrics lacked the resilience of mainstream products. chasing, said: “Companies should pursue sustainabil- meet terms of the agreement. “With price-conscious buyers more cautious about ity even more strongly. It would send the wrong signal The key issue is the sale of Hartmarx to a third what they are sourcing, the focus right now is on consum- if people took the cheapest exit option just because party. The court papers, which were filed April 3, ers’ immediate needs, not environmental worries,” said times are hard. Those with a long-term strategy will argue that in the event of a sale Burberry’s fall executive director Nabeel Abdullah. be rewarded.” orders would be filled by a new owner. Since li- censing agreements cannot be transferred with- out a licensor’s consent, Burberry said it has the Filo Mills Tone Down Fall Offerings rather than shine were what buyers were after. right to terminate the contract now in order to line up a new manufacturer. By Kerry Olsen giovanni Tessari, Lurex’s mar- At FFM, the French company was “Burberry needs to make arrangement for its fall keting director, acknowledged the exhibiting for the first time under the product now,” the company said in the filing, adding MILAN — Yarn manufacturers exhibit- high end of the market was ex- Safil name, the Biella-based business it “should not be required to deal with a licensee ing at the 31st edition of Filo pushed periencing continuing difficulty. that took over FFM in November. not of its choosing.” new approaches in an effort to fight However, Tessari said the company With production now shifted to Safil’s The filing also said Hartmarx breached its the pressures of the economic crisis. intends to keep developing yarns to Bulgaria factories, FFM exhibited licensing agreement by failing to furnish state- A 7 percent increase in exhibi- entice buyers. a range of mohair and fancy yarns ments for both yearly sales and royalty payments tor attendance to 2,700 people Trans-polyester fibers that can be along with a new “superkid cape mo- related to its licensed Burberry product. boosted spirits for many at the two- dyed and overdyed in shades such as hair” created specifically for humid details of the licensing agreement, including day fair that ended March 19. Paolo browns, purples and violets were on Asian summers. the amount Hartmarx currently owes Burberry, Monfermoso, Filo’s project manager, show from Lurex. Foil-effect yarns dominique Carpentier, FFM’s were redacted in the court documents, but said the “fair was holding its own.” were on display, but without the for- commercial director, noted that the partnership has been sizeable for Hickey Exhibitors responded to the mer gold and silver color palette, buyer attendance was predominant- Freeman, the Hartmarx-owned brand that pro- downturn with innovative product which Tessari explained is now “too ly made up of Italians, with almost duces Burberry clothing at its Rochester, N.Y., and “previously untried formulas,” linked to the concept of luxury.” no Americans. factory. According to financial documents filed Monfermoso said. Como-based Trendfil offered a The U.S. market was also a con- with the court, Hickey Freeman paid Burberry The lineup of 80 exhibitors em- similar range of metallic polyester cern for Marchi & Fildi. Caternia almost $500,000 in the 90 days before the com- phasized casual yarns and a more yarns that could be blended with silk dissegna, director of the company, pany filed for bankruptcy on Jan. 23. restrained luxury offering. New me- and wool, giving the natural fibers a said American buyers used to be “big The license between Hartmarx and Burberry tallic shades such as copper were higher fashion look. business” for the mill, but the weak is set to expire in mid-2010. presented without excessive bril- “Softer metallic shades were right dollar has chased much of that busi- Hartmarx, which declined comment, has until liance. vendors also continued to for the market at the moment,” said ness away. However, with exchange April 11 to file objections. The motion is scheduled push blends of natural fibers with Francesco Boselli, general manager rates improving, dissegna hoped to to be heard on April 14. viscose and modal yarns. at Trendfil, adding that brightness “regain a part of the market again.” — Brenner Thomas 10 WWD, tuesDay, april 7, 2009 WWD.COM Green Report Companies Push Green Practices Despite Sour Economy By WWD Staff Looks for Loomstate for Eco-friEndly, sustainablE and Ethical arE Loomstate for Target words that have become part of the permanent lexicon Barneys Green. of manufacturers and retailers in recent years. from the smallest 500-square-foot shop to the mass chain with 1,000-plus stores, companies are looking for ways to lower their carbon footprints, conserve energy, identify ethical sourcing partners and educate consumers about the ben- efits of saving the planet, and consumers themselves are becoming more interested in the topic as well. according to a survey by Wsl strategic retail, 55 percent of consum- ers buy organic products, up from 49 percent a year ago. Many companies are making investments that will lead to cost-saving efficiencies. a healthy regard for the environment has become part of many firms’ identities, from Patagonia to yes, Wal-Mart. for others, such as the Gap, eco-sensitive products and ethical sourcing is part of the culture, something that employees have come to expect and consumers increasingly demand. sylvie bénard, director of environment at lVMh, said the idea of environmental initiatives being more expensive than traditional methods is not necessarily true, adding that maintaining environmental efforts in the downturn makes economic sense. “the message that the environment costs a lot has passed,” she said. “it has really evolved.” bénard, noted that lVMh will maintain its invest- ments this year in everything from boutiques that con- sume less energy to carbon audits to water measurement. these investments will ultimately lead to cost-savings for the group. to companies wondering whether they can maintain their commitment to the environment in the midst of an economic crisis, she said, “We must not stop photos by talaya Centeno everything because the financial situation isn’t as good as we would hope. these are resources that will one day disappear. they are irreplaceable. no matter what the financial situation or the social situation, we have to con- tinue to tackle that.” a stricter regulatory landscape, such as Europe’s registration, Evaluation, authorisation and restriction of chemicals, (rEach), which came into force last year, is prompting some companies to jump on the green bandwagon. businesses must re- such as france and the netherlands. Meanwhile, “investment piece” has become the spond to new obligations, economic crisis or not. some government policies see green industry’s mantra, touted by luxury brands and magazines, retail experts said. as the route to recovery. the french Ministry of Ecology is working on developing a french consumers are fed up with clothes that don’t last. “We are starting to see label for eco-friendly products by 2011 and possibly lowering the Vat on products more people complaining that clothing isn’t good quality and falls apart too quickly,” deemed eco-friendly. said nathalie ruelle, professor and sustainable fashion consultant at the institue h&M plans to increase its organic cotton products stable by 50 percent this year, francais de la Mode, referring to an ifM study last october. “this falls into the slow given consumers’ desire to buy sustainable products, said harsha Vardhan, h&M’s fashion trend — products that are fashionable but have a longer life span,” she said. global environment coordinator. “Given that most factories have stopped expanding ruelle praised h&M’s upscale cos chain, which “offers beautiful, quality clothing in the current climate, the credit crunch is actually the best time for factories to em- with good finishes and materials that last.” bark on cleaner production programs,” she said. “the price gap between organic and “somewhere along the way, we forgot about making things to last,” said david ordinary cotton has narrowed sharply from a previous 100 percent to 20 to 30 percent hieatt, founder of the Welsh sustainable brand howies. “We convinced ourselves that due to higher production volume and the growing number of suppliers, making this a being different, being new, being quirkier was the thing. Quality was put at the back of much more affordable alternative.” the queue.” the company is trying to change course. hand-me-downs, howies’ latest Pat nie Woo, director of central textiles, said at the interstoff asia Essential tex- collection, has prices as high as 400 pounds, or $593, for a classic outdoor tweed-lined tile trade show in hong Kong last month, “We are almost debt free, which means we jacket, but comes with a 10-year guarantee. have the financial flexibility to continue pursuing sustainable projects. despite the for lVMh’s bénard, a product’s longevity is a top priority. in fact, lVMh is de- economic downturn, central textiles will go ahead with our sustainable development veloping a product life cycle analysis tool that will be used by product design groups plans, but of course, these plans must make financial across the company’s fashion houses. “the goal is that sense. the economic recession presents an opportunity designers take environmental considerations into ac- “ to move ahead of the game.” count at the design stage, and eventually we won’t need from her small store on first avenue in downtown Manhattan, lisa linhardt sells her environmentally sen- We must not stop everything the environmental team any more,” she said. barneys new y ork has made organic and eco-friend- sitive jewelry: engagement rings with ethical diamonds mined in canada, rings and necklaces made from wood because the financial situation isn’t ly fashion a priority. loomstate for barneys Green, a 100 percent organic cotton collection, will introduce a as good as we would hope. ” scraps donated by a furniture company and jewelry made series of t-shirts inspired by endangered wildlife for from organic south american tagua seeds. fall. spring debuts include Koi suwannagate’s collec- “customers are reacting positively to it and they are — Sylvie Bénard, LVMH tion made with organic silk or vintage cashmere and willing to pay more for it,” linhardt said. “in order to overstock threads, raf simons for Jil sander organic be green, you have to have an environmental conscience Knits’ exclusive 100 percent organic cashmere collec- and a social conscience.” tion and stefano Pilati’s yves saint laurent line made from ysl fabric that would linhardt avoids using newly mined gold collected under unsafe or inhumane condi- have been destroyed or thrown out. barneys also encourages customers to recycle. tions, termed “dirty gold.” rather, she works with recycled gold, although finding manu- Worn jeans can be exchanged for a small discount on a new pair. facturers that share her commitment is difficult. Prices in her store range from $30 for Patagonia, the Ventura, calif.-based outdoor clothier whose business is based on a ring made from Ecoresin — 40 percent recycled plastic with wood inlays — to $25,000 sustainability, places an emphasis on timeless, classic designs that last. over the last for a custom engagement ring or cocktail ring with diamonds or lonsdaleites. four years, Patagonia’s sales have grown from $75 million to $300 million. “our brand anthropologie is tapping into Earth day, april 22, to connect with customers. is really resonating right now,” said casey sheehan, Patagonia’s chief executive officer. organic chefs and food advocates will appear in several anthropologie stores, while Green initiatives are paying off for Patagonia. doubling the size of a warehouse using the other locations will host farm-to-table and gardening events. in the spirit of recycling, leadership in Energy and Environmental design (lEEd) building ratings system cost 7 the retailer is offering reinvention workshops where consumers learn to rework car- percent more than using traditional techniques, but because the building is 40 percent digan sweaters and revitalize t-shirts. more energy efficient, Patagonia saw a return on its investment in three years. loomstate for target, casual men’s and women’s apparel made from certified or- Gap inc. is engaged on several fronts. “We’re working to reduce energy use in our ganic cotton, will debut at the retailer on april 19. “We continue to do ongoing re- stores, distribution centers and headquarters,” a spokeswoman said. “by the end search about what our guests want and it’s obvious to us that more guests are craving of 2007, we reduced consumption by 12.7 percent. at old navy we relamped all the eco-friendly products,” said a target spokeswoman. “in general, that’s been a trend. stores with energy-efficient bulbs that will cut energy costs by 10 percent.” the compa- there really isn’t a department in the store that hasn’t been impacted by eco-friend- ny installed a 1 megawatt solar power system in its fresno distribution center, which ly.” target is working on reducing packaging of existing products, and in conjunction will generate 1.9 million kilowatt hours. at Gap’s san francisco headquarters, there’s with General Electric, on april 19 will give away one million reusable bags containing no bottled water for sale, cutlery is used in the cafeteria and every office contains a coupons for compact fluorescent light bulbs. “We have a really integrated and wholis- compost and recycling bin and tiny trash can that makes employees “mindful about tic approach that encompasses merchandising, marketing, sustainability and energy creating waste,” the spokeswoman said. Gap is reducing water use, recycling scraps management,” said the spokeswoman. from cutting room floors and including alternative fibers in all collections. banana one of the strongest emerging trends in Europe is a move away from throwaway republic, meanwhile, launched a second sustainable line as part of its heritage col- fashion toward more lasting apparel. h&M’s first-quarter sales declined 5 percent on lection. Gap inc. last month was ranked the number-one retailer among 100 best cor- a like-for-like basis, suggesting the chain isn’t immune to the economy in key markets porate citizens by cro magazine for the fourth year in a row. t h e u l t i m a t e c o t t o n f o r f a s h i o n 12 WWD, tuesDay, april 7, 2009 WWD.COM Green Report Italian Firms Invest in Communities Producing Natural Fibers value attributed to the fiber has created a primary economic resource for the By Emilie Marsh people with the added value of benefiting the protection of the breed,” Loro MILAN — For Italian luxury firms, sustainable development is good karma and Piana said. good business. Indeed, promoting a fiber’s origins also helps create awareness of value for Ermenegildo Zegna, Loro Piana and textile mills Cotonificio Honegger and the end consumer. Marchi & Fildi are among those investing in development programs support- “Our consumers have always appreciated the value originating from ing local communities that produce natural fibers, including cotton, cash- authentic quality….I trust that these characteristics are being appreci- mere and vicuña, to put value back in the supply chain. ated more and more and believe that purchasing an item of intrinsic “The quality of our products is based on building a close relationship value might be considered a good investment,” Loro Piana said. with and supporting the local communities of the world’s finest fibers,” Zegna agrees. “Raw fiber is one of the basic elements responsible said Paolo Zegna, chairman of Ermenegildo Zegna and president of the for the quality of the final product, the image Ermenegildo Zegna Milan textile trade show Unica. is famous for. You need to be able to follow and control the process Hence, Ermenegildo Zegna invested 1 million euros in a well-drilling — from the raw fibers to the very end product. Natural fibers are project for cashmere producers in Mongolia and vicuña producers in Peru. expensive, but they have added value.” For fall, Zegna unveiled its “We found that the one thing most communities needed was better Oasi Cashmere, which is treated with eco-friendly dyes made with water supply. It’s not about just sending a check. It’s about doing the wood and herbal pigments. research and finding out what the people really need to improve their Although the current economic environment has arguably ac- lives, and subsequently that of the livestock,” Zegna said, adding that celerated consumer interest in product origins and led to more the company was investing in the “long term.” conscious purchasing decisions, Ermenegildo Zegna’s support for Ermenegildo Zegna’s support for world communities also extends local fiber producers can be traced back more than 40 years, when to India, where this year, through its Foundation Zegna initiative the company first introduced its annual trophy for the best natu- and in collaboration with the Care & Share nonprofit organization, ral-fiber production in 1963. Dubbed the Vellus Aureum Trophy, the company established a micro-credit project for women, giving the prize is still awarded to the finest woolen fleece worldwide. them access to small loans and courses in artisanal trades, such Similarly, Loro Piana’s relationship with the Peruvian communities as weaving, embroidering or tailoring, to enable them to set up spans over 20 years, and the company signed an agreement with the businesses of their own. local government in 1994 to protect the vicuña species and provide Loro Piana in June moved from investing in the animals it assistance to communities. shears to acquiring the land they feed on by purchasing 2,000 hect- More recently, Marchi & Fildi, yarn makers based in Biella, Italy, ares in Peru — an area about six times the size of Central Park — last year launched Ecotec yarn, a yarn made from recycled cotton. This to preserve the vicuña, which had been in danger of extinction. year, for every kilo of Ecotec sold, 0.05 euros will go to nonprofit organization “We rely on the production of the local communities from Man’s Brothers, which promotes social and economical development in Latin whom we buy the majority of the fiber produced in the Peruvian America and Africa. Ecotec will directly benefit Malika, a neighborhood on Andes. By making a live vicuña more valuable than a dead one for the the outskirts of Dakar in Senegal, by training 100 Senegalese minors in related communities, we have established a virtuous cycle,” said co-chief executive trades at their local factory. officer Pier Luigi Loro Piana, who, together with his brother Sergio, named the Meanwhile, Cotonificio Honegger, one of Italy’s biggest shirting fabric land after their father, Franco Loro Piana. mills, based in Bergamo, Italy, opened its first shirt manufacturing company “The fiber is the most precious and finest fiber in the world,” he added. in the former Italian colony of Eritrea, a country on the Red Sea just north of He’s not kidding. Six vicuñas need to be sheared for one sweater, and Ethiopia. Called ZA.ER, the mill boasts a 500-strong local workforce and 35 for a coat. According to Loro Piana, one kilogram of vicuña costs 10 offers classes in textiles and Italian, and also hosts a nursery to care for times more than the highest quality cashmere. Oasi cashmere coat by employees’ children while they work. Cotonificio Honegger projected the “The project guarantees the socioeconomic value gained: The high Ermenegildo Zegna. Eritrean project would result in the creation of 400 new jobs by 2010. U.N. Seeks to Reduce Synthetics The United Nations is getting down to The U.N. plans to earth. reverse trends in fiber In an effort to im- production in 2009. prove the world’s supply of natural re- sources, the U.N. has declared 2009 the International Year of Natural Fibers. photo by b.A. StewArt & J.e. Fletcher/NAtioNAl geogrAphic/getty imAgeS The designation is meant not only to protect the environ- ment, but also to safe- guard the commu- nities that produce vegetal fibers like jute, flax and ramie, as well as camel hair and cashmere. Such fibers have seen their market share cut by the rise of synthetic fibers over the last half-century. To help reverse that trend, the U.N. is aiming to ensure that producers have the technology and knowledge to pro- duce fibers of the highest quality. In Peru, for example, the U.N. Food and Agriculture Organization, or FAO, is working with farmers to improve their al- paca production, which has suffered due to years of bulk trading. The FAO is also working to cut the amount of pesticides used by farmers on crops such as cotton, which not only reduces nega- tive environmental impact, but helps farmers by minimizing depen- dence on expensive chemicals. Other goals include raising public awareness and encouraging public policy with a focus on the success of niche markets, research and development for new applications of the versatile fibers and the encouragement of cooperation among industry groups. Events scheduled for 2009 include displays and fashion shows as well as conferences, such as the meetings held at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York on cotton sustainability, and at the Gaston College Textile Technology Center in Belmont, N.C., on applications for alpaca, both held earlier this month. — Rachel Mascetta WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 13 WWD.COM MEMO PAD wrong covering Hollywood, but it’s a fine line. BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD: The downtown Our readers don’t want to know about Suri and and uptown sets came together on Friday Shiloh’s play date. I don’t even want to know night for a Champagne-and-canapé VIP affair who they are, but I do.” — Marcy Medina to celebrate the Society of Illustrators’ newest exhibit, “The Line of Fashion,” on view at the COAST TO COAST: Katherine Ross, senior nonprofit’s East 63rd Street gallery through vice president of public relations and May 2. Curated by artist and author Robert W. communications for LVMH Moët Hennessy Richards, the show features commercial and Louis Vuitton’s North American operations editorial work by fashion illustration luminaries since 2005, is no longer a full-time employee such as Antonio Lopez, Steven Stipelman, Joe of the French luxury group. Ross said she is Eula, Michael Vollbracht and Kenneth Paul now a consultant for LVMH Inc. and based Block. While the art form might have gone in Los Angeles, where she has been living the way of 45-rpm records and 35-mm film for more than two years since her husband, — WWD and sister publication W Magazine Michael Govan, became director and chief were among its last bastions — you wouldn’t executive officer of the Los Angeles County have guessed it given the excited crowd, Museum of Art. Prior to joining LVMH, Ross which included Vollbracht and Stipelman, as was an executive at Prada Group and, before well as Narciso Rodriguez, former model Alva that, Sotheby’s North America. — Miles Socha Chinn, Bill Cunningham and design duo Phillipe and David Blond. “This particular moment is a INSIDE JOB: Fashionable Parisians (and those good moment for fashion illustration,” curator who wish they were) now have a new online Richards explained. “Photography is losing its cheat sheet. Launched last month by Véronique credibility. Nobody knows what’s real anymore, Roger-Vasselin-Constantinoff, former fashion what’s not real — is she really that tall? Does she editor in chief for Atmospheres magazine and have that much hair? Are those really her tits? onetime style consultant for Le Bon Marché, It’s Photoshop, Photoshop, Photoshop. If you’re Doitinparis.com is a whimsical, mostly Left Bank going to do fake, you might as well go really take on style, much in the spirit of Daily Candy. fake and have drawings.” Plus, Richards noted, “Paris is the capital of fashion and art there’s an economic incentive, now more than de vivre, and yet I found nothing on the net ever. “Illustrators don’t require hair and makeup, that captured that,” she said. “This site is a three-room suite and a private plane [to about sharing the real Parisienne’s Paris, her produce an advertisement or editorial story]. We lifestyle, fashion outlook, bistros, boutiques just put our stuff in a little bag and we go and and addresses. It reflects the insider’s world.” do our work and come home.” — Nick Axelrod Run by four full-time staffers with contributions from about a dozen freelancers, PRINT IT: Variety’s new editor in chief Tim the site will partner with Atelier des Chefs Gray spoke out Monday about modernizing for the “recipe of the week” section starting the 104-year-old Hollywood trade journal, but in May; also in the works are features by Clockwise from top left: Works by Alvaro, Bil Donovan, Kenneth Paul Block “modern” in his parlance still includes the actresses, fashion insiders and other high- and Michael Vollbracht. print medium. “You have to keep changing to visibility Parisians. Within its first week, the stay on track, but personally I think print won’t go away.” Gray said the paper is turning Web site drew 2,000 subscriptions to its newsletter and 800 unique users daily. Roger- a profit, so there are no immediate plans to shutter the daily or weekly editions in favor Vasselin-Constantinoff hopes to boost that to 10,000 unique users daily and turnover of of the online version. “Our goal is to give them different identities because they have $1.5 million, mainly generated by advertising and commissions from online partnerships, different audiences,” he said. On the changing Hollywood scene, he said, “I do find it really by spring 2010. Funded by its founder and private investors including Olivier Dassault, Do It fascinating that the whole world has become more Hollywood obsessed, so you can’t go in Paris counts Dior Beauté among its first advertisers (for Miss Dior Chérie). — Tina Isaac introducing WWDChina Week in Review 女性时装日报每周要闻回顾 GLOBAL REACH. REGIONAL RELEVANCE. DIGITAL DELIVERY. The week’s top stories in simpliﬁed and traditional Chinese Special focus on news impacting China New edition every Tuesday WWDCHINA.COM SPONSORED BY: LYCRA® FIBER IS A TRADEMARK OF INVISTA. 14 WWD, tuesDay, april 7, 2009 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes, see WWD.com. Target, Ackman Wrangling Intensifies 10 BEST PERfORmERS By Evan Clark strength, diversity, experience and DAILY COMPANIES P/E VOLuME AMt qualifications to provide effective and targEt Corp and aCtiviSt invES- . independent oversight and direction to HIgH LOw LASt %CHANgE tor William ackman continued to trade the company.” blows on Monday about the size and Shares of target fell 3.4 percent to composition of the retailer’s board. close at $35.45. 1.36 0.67 General Growth (GGP) 7.2 46451658 0.97 34.72 While the target battle took center another company in ackman’s sights, stage in retailing, renewed jitters about general growth properties inc., rose 5.07 3.98 Zale (ZLC) - 2076488 4.76 14.42 the health of banks and the apparently 34.7 percent to 97 cents, although the failed merger between technology gi- beleagured real estate investment trust ants international Business Machines said it knew of no reason for the surge. 5.6 4.85 Penn Real Estate (PEI) - 930626 5.6 14.29 Corp. and Sun Microsystems inc. drove ackman has been buying shares of the down the overall market and helped debt-laden mall operator and could re- 1.94 1.50 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 8850 1.94 14.12 trim retail shares 1.3 percent. tain an ownership position in the event ackman, who heads pershing Square of a bankruptcy. 0.35 0.35 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 1600 0.35 12.90 Capital Management and through it con- the S&p retail index fell 4.17 points trols 7.8 percent of target’s stock, sent a to 310, which is still 38.9 percent above 3.4 2.84 CBL (CBL) 20.0 2693966 3.37 12.33 letter urging shareholders to elect his its March 6 low. falling back below proposed slate of five directors — spe- 8,000, the dow Jones industrial average cialists in the retail, real estate and slid 0.5 percent, or 41.74 points, to 12.65 11.06 Weingarten (WRI) 8.3 4876793 12.36 9.09 credit card areas. in a filing with the 7,975.85 as the iBM-Sun deal appeared Securities and Exchange Commission to falter. a pickup in mergers and acqui- 0.38 0.36 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 3.5 36559 0.37 5.68 Monday, he described the board’s com- sitions would be a positive sign for the position as “suboptimal.” economy and one indication that price 7.45 6.55 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 5.4 176860 7.24 4.93 the retailer shot back, asserting: tags, at least for companies, had bot- “the current target board has the tomed out. 1.70 1.50 Bon-Ton (BONT) - 70491 1.64 4.46 Claiborne’s McComb Sees Pay Fall 13.4% 10 WORST PERfORmERS WilliaM MCCoMB, ChiEf ExECutivE offiCEr of liz ClaiBornE inc., took a 13.4 percent pay cut last year, according to an annual filing with the DAILY COMPANIES P/E VOLuME AMt Securities and Exchange Commission. McComb’s total compensation of $5.5 million included a salary of $1.3 million, HIgH LOw LASt %CHANgE the same as in 2007, and stock and option awards valued at $3.8 million. in 2007, those awards paid $4.5 million. the former Johnson & Johnson executive, who has led Claiborne since 2006, 8.29 7.25 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 8.6 11167329 7.79 -23.70 also received $127,200 for a company-provided apartment in new york, $13,360 for private use of car services and a clothing allowance of $6,429. he hasn’t received non-equity incentive plan compensation in either of his two 0.33 0.29 Phoenix footwear (PXG) - 1700 0.29 -17.14 full years with the company, according to the filing. Since taking the helm, McComb has worked to reinvent the business against 4.41 3.70 Revlon (REV) 2.2 322571 3.75 -16.85 a backdrop of a rapidly changing department store and retail landscape. in his first year on the job, after splitting the company into two groups, one for partnered 0.73 0.58 General Growth (GGP) 3.1 5160575 0.62 -8.82 brands and the other for direct brands, he orchestrated the sale or closure of the majority of 16 underperforming components of its portfolio. McComb hired isaac 0.32 0.31 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 3.4 36807 0.31 -8.15 Mizrahi to remake the firm’s flagship brand, worked to support names such as Juicy Couture and Kate Spade and, in february, turned over Claiborne’s sourcing opera- tions to li & fung. 11.56 10.24 True Religion (TRLG) 6.9 678793 10.78 -7.23 in the fiscal year ended Jan. 3, Claiborne posted a $951.8 million loss, after writ- ing down $683.1 million in goodwill related to legacy acquisitions. net sales for 7.92 7.35 Hanesbrands (HBI) 6.0 2482232 7.49 -7.19 continuing operations dropped 10.3 percent to $3.99 billion. among the firm’s other top executives, andrew Warren, executive vice presi- 0.28 0.26 frederick’s of Hollywood (fOH) - 14580 0.26 -7.14 dent and chief financial officer, saw his pay increase 1.1 percent to $1.3 million in 2008. david Mctague, executive vice president of partnered brands, logged a 14.8 1.60 1.30 Parlux fragrances (PARL) 20.9 154467 1.35 -6.25 percent rise in compensation to $1.2 million. Both executives joined the company in mid-2007. 4.46 4.05 CBL (CBL) 9.1 1522406 4.28 -6.14 — E.C. * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on Winona Capital Buys Peter Millar the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. By Brenner Thomas ternational markets. Sources estimate golf and luxury apparEl MaKEr peter Millar has a new majority owner. the company’s annual volume at between $25 million and $35 million. “this company has shown steady Aronsson Group in Joint Venture With AKS the Sea island Co., the family-owned growth, has a solid distribution base By Marc Karimzadeh istanbul to discuss how we could work real estate corporation that manages and product that consumers love,” said together, to become reacquainted with the Cloister resort in georgia, has sold luke reese, Winona’s managing direc- Building on a portfolio that retail in turkey.” its 60 percent stake in peter Millar to tor. “this year is a tough year for in- includes stakes in Matthew Williamson, While there, he also met many of her Winona Capital Management, a Chicago- vestment but when companies like this ginny h. and Casall, aronsson group friends and clients in fields such as inter- based investment group. come up you have to buy when they are formed a joint venture partnership national textiles, production, department terms were not disclosed, but the for sale.” with istanbul-based retail consultancy and specialty store retailing, real estate cash deal leaves 40 percent of the While reese said Winona will firm aKS. and food. company in the hands of the brand’s adopt a hands-off approach to manag- as part of the agreement, the venture, aronsson said although it is too early two managing principals, founder ing the brand, the firm will help peter called a&a group, aims to create new re- to disclose specific plans for a&a, he Chris Knott and chief executive offi- Millar ramp up its overseas distribu- tail concepts and expand the distribution hopes it will yield “new innovative con- cer Scott Mahoney. tion. licensing deals or joint partner- for aronsson’s portfolio brands with stra- cepts for sustainable retailing, market- “With Winona we found a partner ships in asia and Europe could be tegic partners. aronsson group co-found- ing, and global expansion.” who didn’t want to change our strategy,” inked by mid-summer. “there’s sig- er Jeffry aronsson completed the details linking Europe and asia, he said said Mahoney. “they’ve embraced the nificant upside for this brand abroad,” in istanbul, where he met with aKS prin- turkey offers opportunity even in management and our goals.” reese added. cipal nur akgerman last week. this difficult global economic climate. launched eight years ago, peter Mahoney said the Cary, n.C.-based aronsson said he first met akgerman however, aronsson stressed he was Millar’s mix of fairway-friendly sports- company is continuing to post good 12 years ago in istanbul, when aronsson primarily drawn to akgerman’s “busi- wear and moderately priced styles for numbers at home. the brand added 60 was chief executive officer of oscar de ness and retail acumen coupled with a men and women is sold to about 300 spe- new doors for fall and is projected to la renta, and she was ceo of Beymen deep and extensive international busi- cialty stores and nearly 1,000 green grass top 2008’s results this year. department Store group. ness network.” and resort shops around the country. Winona Capital, which has more “as the aronsson group business de- “turkey is the crossroads of the according to Mahoney, the brand has than $125 million under management, veloped, i began a dialogue with Ms. Western and Eastern cultures and trade,” built on double-digit annual sales growth also has stakes in truefitt & hill, a line akgerman from which we both recog- aronsson noted. “add to this almost 30 and in the last 18 months has expanded of men’s grooming products; Boloco, a nized the synergies of our abilities, ex- million tourists per year, and it is a great into new categories, such as men’s tai- Mexican restaurant concept, and Balle perience, relationships and projects,” he potential window for businesses looking lored clothing and furnishings, and in- de Match, a maker of tennis apparel. noted. “i was invited by Ms. akgerman to to do business locally and beyond.” WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 15 WWD.COM Etiqueta Negra Brings Fast Lane to NYC Italy Vows to Rebuild After Quake By Alessandra Ilari By Sharon Edelson AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE IN CENTRAL ITALY THAT KILLED NEW YORK — The Argentine jet-set lifestyle is on more than 150 people and left tens of thousands homeless, Prime display at Etiqueta Negra’s new flagship in SoHo. Minister Silvio Berlusconi said Monday the government would Fast cars and polo are pillars of the Etiqueta provide the funds to rebuild. Negra concept, conceived by Federico Alvarez Berlusconi, who declared a state of emergency and canceled a Castillo, who is married to Paula Cahen d’Anvers, trip to Moscow, said, “There will be no problems concerning the designer of the women’s collection. The two- economic expense because the government has already activated level, 6,000-square-foot unit at 273 Lafayette Street, the European fund for catastrophes.” Etiqueta Negra’s ﬁrst store in the U.S., is projected The 6.3 magnitude temblor, which struck about 3:30 a.m. to do $3 million in sales in its ﬁrst year, according Monday and could be felt in Rome, more than 60 miles southwest, to a spokesman. triggered major damage in medieval hill towns in the Abruzzo re- Alvarez Castillo, who has one of the largest col- gion. It was centered in L ’Aquila, which is nestled under the Gran lections of classic cars in the world, rotates autos A red Alfa Romeo is Sasso, the highest peak of the Apennines. from the collection between each of his 11 stores parked on the main ﬂoor. At least 1,500 people were injured and rescue teams were in Argentina. A red Thirties Alfa Romeo greets searching the rubble. shoppers entering the SoHo unit. Other props in- The Ministry of Internal Affairs in Rome said it was too early to esti- clude an old Texaco oilcan, rowing oars and a car “We made all these plans before the recession,” mate the damage caused by the quake, the worst to hit Italy since 2002. dashboard. Walls are painted black and there’s a the spokesman said. “In Argentina, we’re always The region’s resources primarily stem from a few industrial plants, tin coffered ceiling. in recession. We’re doing well there despite the agriculture and tourism. However, there are a few fashion companies, An owner of Ellerstina, Argentina’s top-ranked crisis. We’re working on wholesaling in the U.S.” including Brioni, whose managers couldn’t be reached for comment. polo club, Alvarez Castillo devotes a section of Etiqueta Negra believes in selling timeless Upscale knitwear ﬁrm Gran Sasso’s 400,000-square-foot head- each store to authentic apparel for playing polo or pieces “that will be in your closet forever,” the quarters is located less than 40 miles from the earthquake’s watching a match. Aside from polo-speciﬁc attire, spokesman said. A classically tailored white cot- epicenter. “We were all woken up in the middle of the night by Etiqueta Negra, which means black label or black ton coat is $720; black pants, $220, and a women’s trembling walls and a deafening noise; it was so strong we felt the tie, offers casual clothing with little in the way of dress shirt with epaulets, $220. The large selec- epicenter could be very close,” said Carlo Di Stefano, marketing decoration and minimal logos. tion of leather items includes a black leather jack- director of Gran Sasso. “Our initial reaction was to send knitwear The company touts the quality of its products: et with stitching detail on the shoulders, $1,200; a to the victims who were left with nothing, but we also intend on boots made by Casa Fagliano, which serves Prince leather blazer, $1,200; a black leather zipper jack- making a donation to a local humanitarian association.” Charles and the British Royal Family, Argentine et, $700, and a buttery leather jacket with pockets Di Stefano, said he was worried about clients and small retail- leather for jackets and Peruvian pima cotton for polo in black, beige or dark brown, $1,400. There are ers in L’Aquila. “Our commercial ofﬁces have been trying to reach shirts. Much of the apparel is manufactured in Italy. basics such as cotton T-shirts and tanks, two jeans them but without success.” The company plans to open another Manhattan styles and black or white mock-turtleneck sweat- A spokesman for Sixty Group, with headquarters in Chieti, store before year’s end and is eyeing Fifth Avenue ers. The tightly edited selection of handbags and about 60 miles from L ’Aquila, said the staff, including co-founders and Madison Avenue. A unit at the Aventura Mall shoes includes lizard boots, $800; clutches, $600, Renato Rossi and Wichy Hassan, was in “shock.” The company in Miami is scheduled to bow in 2010. and lizard belts with horn buckles, $340 to $380. didn’t suffer any damage. WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail email@example.com to advertise. Spaces COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS Associate Tech Designer DESIGNER All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. 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