FASHION: BEAUTY: Value
Models and Z Zegna For cosmetics NEWS:
moving more, brand Jane & Cavalli inks
runway new licensing
show to see Company files
badly, for Chapter 11, deal with
Milan, WWD.com. Ittierre,
page 5. page 3.
page 9. page 2.
Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • April 7, 2009 • $3.00
At the moment, fun, colorful, rich looks have even
more appeal than straight-up luxe. Take furs, for
instance, in all those easy shapes and brazen
neon shades. Here, Michael Kors’ shocking pink
shredded fox coat worn with a Kors turtleneck
and belt. For more furs, see pages 6 and 7.
Powers of Persuasion:
PhOTO BY ThOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: JULES/ONE; hAIR BY DANIELLE IRENE FOR ARTISTSBYTIMOThYPRIANO; MAKEUP BY MIZU FOR SUSAN PRICE; FAShION ASSISTANT: KAYLA PASSONS; STYLED BY BOBBI qUEEN
Europe’s Luxury Brands
Try the Personal Touch
By Miles Socha
With even wealthy consumers skittish about
spending during the financial crisis, Europe’s
luxury players are fast becoming expert
Leveraging their store networks and
customer databases, brands are plotting more
frequent and varied in-store efforts to boost
traffic and coax open pocketbooks.
Tactics range from standard trunk shows
and giveaways to temporary stores and
limited edition products to break through what
executives describe as a psychological barrier
to discretionary spending.
“There are still people with money, but we
have to talk to them differently,” said Valérie
Hermann, chief executive officer at Yves Saint
Laurent. “It’s about having a relationship
See Europe’s, Page 8
2 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009
Just Cavalli Extends License With Ittierre
By Andrew Roberts
MILAN — Roberto Cavalli has signed a new
five-year license with Ittierre SpA for his Just
equivalent of Chapter 11 bankruptcy protec-
tion in February after running out of cash. Just
Cavalli is the biggest license for Isernia, Molise,
Italy-based Ittierre, generating 2007 revenues of
about 240 million euros, or $329 million, and is
The deal, confirming a report in WWD on
Friday, covers production and distribution for
highly profitable. Ittierre’s other licenses include
C’N’C Costume National, Galliano, VJC Versace
6 Designersa are showing their tossesside this sea-
son with neon palette that
Just Cavalli men’s and women’s apparel, shoes and Versace Sport. Ittierre employs 772 people. to the winds of winter.
and accessories. It runs through the fall-winter “The agreement with Cavalli confirms
2014 collections and cancels outstanding finan- Ittierre’s great international value and opera- GENERAL
cial obligations tied to the previous agreement, tional capability,” said Ittierre’s administrators,
both parties said Monday. The contract is subject Andrea Ciccoli, Stanislao Chimenti, and Roberto 1 With evenin the financial crisis,skittish about
to government and court approval. Spada. “We are very pleased to be able to renew players are becoming expert event planners.
The renewal marks a U-turn for Cavalli, the partnership with a brand of such enormous
who blamed Ittierre for having to call off Just global renown, great commercial success and de- 2 Uniqlo is opening its first store in Singapore on
Thursday in the suburban Tampines district, the
Cavalli’s fall-winter runway show in February, velopment potential as Just Cavalli. In moments
citing delays, substandard production and 20 like the present, the market needs the positive first of eight planned for the city-state.
energy and creativity that the designer and the
million euros, or $26.5 million, in unpaid roy-
alties. At the time, Cavalli said he was talking maison have always been able to represent.” 3 Louis Vuitton,foundationcreating ais giving a pre-
to other potential partners, including Renzo Sources credited Ittierre’s de facto chief ex- view of its treasures at a Hong Kong exhibition.
Rosso’s Staff International, and could even take ecutive officer Ciccoli, a former partner at con-
Just Cavalli’s production in-house. Cavalli’s re- sultancy firm Bain & Co., with convincing Cavalli 9 TEXTILES: fabric firms to cut prices in Hong Kong
Buyers at Interstoff Asia
marks led Ittierre to threaten legal action. that Ittierre was best-placed to build Just Cavalli
Dollar figures were converted at average ex- globally. Just Cavalli generates an estimated smaller orders given the global recession.
change rates for the periods to which they refer. 70 percent of revenue in Italy and the rest of
10 their carbon footprints, conservefor ways andlower
GREEN: Companies are looking to
Cavalli said Monday his young line had been Europe. The new deal includes a worldwide energy
suffering from “just a bit of a fever” and “sea- marketing and communications plan. identify ethical sourcing partners.
sonal ills” and would return to the runway with The license extension is the second major
the spring-summer 2010 collections.
“Now [Just Cavalli] is very healthy and very
achievement for the administrators, who se-
cured a 30 million euro, or $39.7 million, line
14 FINANCIAL:13.4 percent pay cut last year, earning
Inc., took a
William McComb, ceo of Liz Claiborne
strong,” he said. “It will very much upset those of credit from five Italian banks at the end of compensation of $5.5 million.
who were hoping for the worse.” February, allowing Ittierre to restart its engines
The deal is expected to strengthen Cavalli’s and continue day-to-day operations. EYE
position in negotiations with Clessidra SGR SpA.
He is in talks with the private equity firm to sell
With Cavalli on board, the administrators are
expected to step up efforts to renew agreements
A look from 4 The Ronson clanon the Sunsetboisterous bashof
at Bar Marmont
Strip in honor
a 20 percent stake in his namesake fashion com- with other licensors before addressing Ittierre’s Charlotte Ronson’s new fashion line.
pany. The designer met representatives from the parent company, IT Holding SpA.
fund last Tuesday, when they laid out what he IT Holding, which owns the Gianfranco Ferré,
described as an “interesting plan.” Malo and Extè brands, followed its production Classified Advertisements.................................................................................................15
In addition, the new pact signals a turn- and licensing unit into administration at the end To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is
ing point for Ittierre, which filed for the Italian of February. firsTname.lasTname@fairchildpub.com, using The individual’s name.
WWD IS A ReGISteReD tRADeMARK oF ADVANCe MAGAZINe PUBLISHeRS INC. CoPYRIGHt ©2009
FAIRCHILD FASHIoN GRoUP ALL RIGHtS ReSeRVeD. PRINteD IN tHe U.S.A.
Uniqlo Enters Southeast Asia
VOLUME 197, NO. 72. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with
one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June
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By Ong Soh Chin here. The Japanese company holds 51 percent paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503.
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addresses to: P Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 PoStMASteR: SeND ADDReSS CHANGeS
SINGAPORE — Uniqlo is expanding its global reach. Retail controls 49 percent. .o.
to WoMeN’S WeAR DAILY, P Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FoR SUBSCRIPtIoNS, ADDReSS
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formula of high-qual- ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.
DAILY “There are still people
ity yet reasonably
basics, he said.
Uniqlo also plans a
move into Malaysia.
“Our focus now for
QUote with money, but we have
to talk to them differently.
the next three years
will be Singapore be-
fore we think of open-
ing in other countries — Valérie Hermann, chief executive officer,
[in Southeast Asia],” Yves Saint Laurent. Page one.
said Satoshi Onoguchi,
Uniqlo’s Uniqlo’s Singapore
Singapore managing director.
unit. Executives seemed
unfazed by the global
10,000-square-foot space is set for August at the economic crisis. “What we have always provided
Orchard Ion, a luxury mall set to take a prime is sensibly priced clothing,” said Albert Chew,
spot on Singapore’s premier shopping street. co-managing director of Uniqlo Singapore. “And
Six more stores are planned in the next three in a recession, we believe even more customers
years with the third one to be announced once will be focusing on value for their money.’’
negotiations are completed. The brand, which recently hired German de-
Singapore is Uniqlo’s first Southeast Asian
outlet. It was picked as a launchpad into the
region because of its strategic location and its
signer Jil Sander to oversee its men’s and wom-
en’s apparel collections, has 836 stores in Japan
as well as the U.S., U.K., France, China, Hong
reputation as a retail hub. Kong and South Korea. • More photos from the
“We want to be number one in every country The Singapore stores will carry the brand’s fa- Charlotte Ronson-J.C. Penney
we enter,” Tadashi Yanai, chairman, president mous UT T-shirts — a range of limited edition de- party and the Manhattan
and chief executive officer of Uniqlo parent Fast signer Ts — as well as its popular denim range.
PHoTo By y STEFANIE KEENAN
Retailing Co. Ltd., said at a news conference Sander’s first collection for Uniqlo, which will be fete for artist Zeng Fanzhi
here Monday. “Asia is a priority for us because released in September, will be sold in Singapore. • Additional images
it is a huge market, even more so when one in- “We will stock the Singapore stores with al- from the Louis Vuitton
cludes China and India, which have the largest most everything that is available in our Japan
Hong Kong exhibit
populations. If we become number one there, we stores,” Onoguchi said. “The only difference is Sting at Charlotte
would be number one in the world.’’ that we will probably bring in a smaller propor- Ronson’s party. • Global breaking news
Fast Retailing has linked with a local partner tion of our fall-winter collections. • Daily stock prices
WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 3
OSCAR TAKE TWO: First Lady Michelle Obama’s
apparent fondness for European designer
labels has raised a few eyebrows Stateside,
range compared with J. Crew’s $298 crystal
constellation cardigan — or $650 for eBay
shoppers as of Monday.
it’s not oFten that a BriDaL Designer wiLL Liken her Dresses to
especially in Manhattan’s Garment Center, pajamas — but, then again, not many bridal designers are like natalie chanin of
where business is through the basement and L&T PICKS UP LIZ: Five years after Lord & alabama chanin. “you need to feel beautiful but also comfortable,” says chanin,
some American fashion flag-waving could only Taylor dropped the Liz Claiborne brand, ou
who launches her first bridal collection, the wedding, this week. “y shouldn’t be
help the cause. the better-priced collection is back in favor afraid that your bra’s going to show or be picking at your dress while you’re stand-
When informed that the First Lady had with the retailer. L&T chief executive officer ing in front of everyone. it should be something that sits on you like a pajama.”
worked a few Europeans into her wardrobe of Brendan Hoffman confirmed now that the that comfort-driven mind-set is nothing new, of course, for those already familiar
late — Alaïa, Moschino, Etro — Oscar de la brand has relaunched with Isaac Mizrahi as its with chanin’s work. in 2001, she launched project alabama, famous for its cotton gar-
Renta said at his bridal show Monday: “Our designer this spring, L&T — which dropped ments handmade by artisans in her hometown of Florence, alabama. and she didn’t
industry right now is having a very difficult time. the brand in 2004 as the retailer tried to skip a beat when, in 2007, she split with her partner and lost the rights to the label’s
I think it would be great if the First Lady dressed reposition itself more upscale – is “launching name; later that year, she launched alabama chanin, which works with the very
in American styles. There are a lot of talented it in a big way in fall and hopes to have some same quilters and stitchers. “we’re already set up
people here too.” limited doors this spring. For us it’s a brand A look for custom orders,” says chanin, who is also hold-
Some of De la Renta’s comments in WWD that’s always resonated with our customer, and from The ing a trunk show for her signature collection at
last week drew a fair amount of media heat, now that it’s been relaunched with Isaac, I’ve Wedding Barneys new york on wednesday. “every piece
in particular a criticism of Obama’s choice of heard great things, and think it will be a great by Alabama we make [for the main line] is cut and sewn by
a black-and-white dress and cardigan to meet addition,” said Hoffman. Chanin. hand, whether we’re making one piece or 200.”
Queen Elizabeth II. But de la Renta said his still, entering the bridal market wasn’t an ob-
critics chose to overlook the favorable things STILA SALE?: Reports are circulating vious move for the designer. “i’m not sure why it
he said about Obama’s fashion sense. “Look, throughout the market that a sale could took us so long,” she says, noting it was her re-
she has such great looks if she put on a potato be near for beauty brand Stila, founded cent spring lineup that put those nuptial gears
sack, she would look great.” by Jeanine Lobell in 1994 and owned by in motion. “spring was inspired by ceremonial
While the European response to the Sun Capital Partners since 2006. (The dresses, so we did a lot of white looks. it just
First Lady has been practically giddy, a Estée Lauder Cos. owned the brand from kind of developed from that.”
few naysayers emerged. Tyler Brûlé, for 1999 to 2006.) The company’s Web the 50-piece wedding collection, which in-
example, wrote in The Financial Times’ site, stilacosmetics.com, has been under cludes long V-neck gowns, tunic dresses, skirts
weekend edition, “…Someone needs to tell construction “for routine maintenance” with a and tanks, as well as matching vests and jackets,
Michelle Obama that there’s a time and note that orders placed on March 23 or March continues in the same folksy vein. everything
place for bare arms and it’s not on an early 24 might be canceled. Calls to the brand’s comes cut in her trademark organic cotton jer-
spring evening at a rather important global Glendale, Calif. headquarters — placed at sey and, chanin proudly notes, is machine wash-
conference in London.” 3 p.m. Pacific time — were answered with able. But she doesn’t sacrifice elaborate design
Even pundits on Chris Matthews’ show a recording noting the company’s normal for ease of care (and wear). the garments,
Sunday weighed in on the First Lady’s style, business hours were from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. priced from $150 to $4,000 wholesale, are embel-
praising her (inaccurately) for wearing J. Monday through Friday. Sun Capital Partners lished with visible stitching, reverse appliqués,
Crew to meet the Queen. The cardigan she and Stila’s senior management, including beading, stencilwork and embroidery galore —
wore was actually from the French designer chief executive Deanna Kangas, did not the artsy-craftsy techniques core to her clothes.
Azzedine Alaïa, which retails in the four-digit respond to calls for comment. “when you’re looking at the wedding market,
i think we have something truly different to offer,
something that’s outside the norm,” says chanin.
Vuitton Art Exhibit Set for Hong Kong
“the dresses we make, they’re heirloom pieces.”
she adds that clients can also customize their
own garments — pairing a silhouette with an
embroidery pattern from the alabama chanin
By Miles Socha archives — or rework them into similar styles
for bridesmaids or flower girls.
photo by kyle ericksen
Louis Vuitton, which is constructing a permanent, Frank gehry- and yet another bonus: in keeping with her
designed art foundation in paris, is giving a preview of some of its treasures with an sustainable sensibility, chanin is able to overdye
ambitious exhibition in hong kong. the pieces after the big day. “i know a lot of peo-
“Louis Vuitton: a passion for creation” is slated to run from may 22 to aug. 9 at ple save their wedding dress for life,” she notes.
the hong kong museum of art. it recounts the French luxury firm’s long association “this way, they can wear it more than once.”
with the art world, from the art Deco designers who collaborated with the founder’s — Venessa Lau
grandson on trunks to more recent hook-ups on leather goods with contemporary art
stars such as takashi murakami and richard prince.
a press event is scheduled for today at the hong kong museum where Jean-
Baptiste Debains, president of Louis Vuitton asia-pacific, and chung Ling-hoi, an
Jane Files for Bankruptcy
official from hong kong’s Leisure
and cultural services Department, A model of the Louis Vuitton
will sign a letter of intent and provide Foundation by Frank Gehry.
details of the expo, billed as a star at-
traction during hong kong’s 17th an- By Andrea Nagel Jane’s senior secured lender that will
nual French may arts Festival. the allow it to operate in chapter 11, the
city is angling to become a new art Jane & company, a VaLue-ori- firm said. Derek c. abbott and Daniel
hub in asia. ented cosmetics brand with annual B. Butz of the wilmington law firm of
the site-specific exhibition will revenues of about $25 million, filed for morris, nichols, arsht & tunnell, LLp ,
include some works that reflect the reorganization monday under chapter represent the debtors.
complexity and energy of the host 11 of the u.s. Bankruptcy code. Drew mcmanigle was named chief
city, including a film titled “central” Baltimore-based Jane, which is sold restructuring officer several weeks ago
by French artist Dominique gonzales- by mass merchants and drugstores, and is leading Jane’s reorganization ef-
Foerster, along with works by seven said the filing in wilmington, Del., forts. y arnell, Jane’s chief executive of-
young local artists. was “due to significant cash liquidity ficer, is serving in an advisory role.
selections from Vuitton’s perma- issues faced by Jane arising from the after months of speculation, the fil-
nent collection also will be on dis- economic crisis that affected retail ing “really is not a surprise to many
play, including large-scale works customers nationwide.” people,” mcmanigle told wwD. “But i
by the likes of Jeff koons, andreas court documents detailed assets do think with the fresh start provision
gursky, pierre huyghe, gilbert & of between zero and $50,000, and li- it will give Jane an opportunity to come
george and Jean-michel Basquiat, abilities of between $1 million and $10 out on the other side of this process.”
plus videos from rosemarie trockel, million. Listed among the top 30 unse- he said the firm’s debtor-in-posses-
wolfgang tillmans, ange Leccia, cured creditors were: topline products sion financing commitment will allow
philippe parreno, Zhou tao and ryan co. inc., wayne, n.J., $1.7 million; Jane the company to run and fill orders and
trecartin, among others. holdings LLc, new york, $947,096; get it into a “business as usual scenar-
a scale model of gehry’s glass, garrett-hewitt international (n.y.) inc., io” at least through June.
cloudlike building will travel to hong wilton, conn., $474,106; Dmi, wharton, “we will try to fast-track this; the
kong, along with a video interview with n.J., $381,309, and unique Display longer you operate in chapter 11,” the
the famous architect. Vuitton broke corp., Freeport, n.y., $336,017. worse the outcome for the company,
ground on the project last year at the Five equity holders with preferred mcmanigle said, alluding to a possible
Jardin d’acclimatation in the Bois de and common stock were named in the sale of Jane.
Bologne in paris, and is aiming to open bankruptcy petition: walnut private on Feb. 28, Jane alerted suppliers
the foundation in 2012. equity Fund, new york, holders of in a letter to its “major cash liquid-
separately, Vuitton plans to publish a 30.69 percent stake; stone canyon ity crisis,” and how it was “unable
a book this september with rizzoli Venture Fund, Los angeles, 30.66 per- to meet its current payment obliga-
new york titled “Louis Vuitton: art, cent; Lisa yarnell, stamford, conn., tions.” the problems were attributed
Fashion and architecture,” an anthol- 11.38 percent; hauser Davis tysoe to three factors, including a number
ogy of the brand’s art projects and “Monkey Train” rorie i LLc, cincinnati, 18.51 percent, of discrepancies with a “major mass
critical essays about its patronage by Jeff Koons. and omar karame, Beverly hills, calif., retailer,” late payments from retail-
during what it describes as “one of 0.03 percent. ers as well as an aggressive December
the most fertile periods of contempo- For more photos, see WWD.com. a debtor-in-possession financing new product launch.
rary art and design.” commitment has been obtained from — With contributions from Vicki Young
4 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009
The King and I left to live. decked out in mimelike makeup, pajamas
and an orange wig, he grapples with physical and ex-
istential decay, all the while flanked by his deadpan
first wife Queen marguerite (Susan Sarandon) and
his young, highly excitable second wife Queen marie
“you’re given this extreme of emotion, so you not
only have license but a necessity to go as far you can,”
says ambrose, who spends the play vacillating between
hysterical laughing and sobbing, all the while navigat-
ing the stage in a velvet robe with a 12-foot-long train.
“lauren is such a bold, daring and brave explorer,”
says rush, who helped adapt the text and starred in
its 2007 australian production. but even intrepid ac-
tors meet limits, as ambrose found out when she had a
particularly dangerous run-in with rush’s crown. “one
day in rehearsal, i tore out a whole chunk of her hair,”
rush recalls. “She yelped, and i said, ‘well, that will
teach you for acting in my cranium.’ ”
burdensome costumes aside, “exit the king”
proved an intellectual challenge for ambrose, who
pored over the original french text armed with a bi-
“i’m a nerd. i like to get into the nitty gritty of all
the words,” she says.
it’s all par for the course for ambrose, who has been
a working theater actress since she was 13. growing up
in new haven, she discovered a passion for perform-
ing and spent her middle-school summers audition-
ing for broadway plays. one of her earliest jobs was
Lauren Ambrose at Alice’s Tea Cup. in ned eisenberg’s “Soulful Scream of a chosen Son.”
“it was all of these actors getting no money, and it was
a walk-up theater and really cool,” recalls ambrose,
you wouldn’t know it from her bright-eyed appearance who at 31 continues to exude the youthful energy of a college drama major. “for me
on a chilly tuesday morning, but lauren ambrose has spent the bet- to be around people who were so passionate about their work, i was like, ‘wow, what
ter part of the last month weeping. rivers of tears that streak her pale a great way to make your life.’”
face with lines of running mascara. every night she confronts mortality though most recognized for her five seasons on hbo’s “Six feet under,” ambrose
when her onstage husband in “exit the king” learns he will die by the has stomped her share of floorboards, as Juliet and ophelia in Shakespeare in the
evening’s end. park productions and in lincoln center’s “awake and Sing!” later this year she will
“i’m crying for two and a half hours straight,” says ambrose. “and then you leave appear opposite paul giamatti in the darkly comic film “cold Souls” and paul dano
the stage door and people are like, ‘can we take your picture?’ and i’m thinking, ‘i’ve in Spike Jonze’s “where the wild things are.”
never looked worse.’ i need a lot of eye cream.” “i often find myself taking jobs because they scare me,” she says. “i can’t imagine
in the play, a revival of eugène ionesco’s 1962 absurdist work on now at the ethel doing only one kind of thing.”
barrymore theatre, king berenger (geoffrey rush) learns he has only 90 minutes — Vanessa Lawrence
Zeng Fanzhi is a Chinese artist whose work looks
kind of like a cross between Francis Bacon and Tim
by Zeng Fanzhi.
Burton. Last week, a smattering of art-world
types and fashion folk showed up to
fete him at the Acquavella Galleries on
the Upper East Side before a dinner
at Philippe on 60th Street. Despite
the recession, the gallery sold nearly
a dozen paintings at prices that
ranged between $100,000
and $2 million each. “I’m very
content,” said Fanzhi, speaking
through his translator as guests Mark Ronson plays for mom Ann Dexter-Jones
like Zhang Ziyi, Vivi Nevo and and sister Charlotte Ronson.
Wendi Murdoch munched on
steamed dumplings, spare ribs the SunSet Strip iS hardly a haven for
and sautéed string beans. (Get families — unless it’s the multifaceted ronson
it? Chinese artist, Chinese food.) clan, who headlined a boisterous bash hosted by
But Murdoch said she was holding J.c. penney on friday at bar marmont in honor
out on buying because the paintings of designing daughter Charlotte Ronson’s new
were still awfully expensive. “I’m fashion line, i [heart] ronson.
hoping to get the one I want at grammy-winning son Mark Ronson led an all-
ambrose photo by talaya centeno; ronson party by steFanIe Keenan; FanZhI party by laUren FleIshman
a better price,” she said with star band with Sam Sparro, Daniel Merriweather and
a laugh. As for Ziyi, she was Alex Greenwald, while charlotte’s dJing twin, Sam,
feeling a lot of pride for her fellow Drea de Matteo spun tunes. despite a broken foot, matriarch Ann
countryman. “Whenever I have a and Nicole Richie. Dexter-Jones traveled to los angeles from
movie here, someone else from Anna new york to cheer on her brood.
China gets quoted saying, ‘I’m so Paquin the family’s unique pedigree of ce-
proud of her as a Chinese person. lebrity, music and fashion drew
It’s great for our country.’ Well, tonight all sorts of stars including Sting,
I’m thrilled to say that as Trudie Styler, Jewel, Anna Paquin,
a Chinese person, ‘I’m so Nicole Richie, Drea de Matteo,
Zhang Ziyi proud of him.’” Go China! Shooter Jennings, Milla Jovovich,
Jeremy Piven, and dsquared’s
Donna Dean and Dan Caten.
Acquavella J.c. penney president Ken Hicks
hoped the celebrities would set an ex-
ample for middle america that “this is
what a star can wear and what i can
wear,” he said. (notable exceptions
being three of the revelers — Paris
Hilton, Kim Kardashian and Simon Rex —
who shot to fame via sex tapes.)
after guests helped them-
selves to a gifting closet (dexter-
Jones scooped up six outfits,
including denim shorts and a
Jeanne- sheer striped dress), rap
Claude and Tinsley Mortimer group plastic little took
Caption go s Milla Jovovich the stage and true to form
here for Zeng Fanzhi in a Chloé coat.
in Diesel. let the f-bombs fly.
WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 5
Pretty Girls and Bad Boys
Models misbehaving? Athletes acting up? Hardly a new notion (see Evelyn Nesbit and the Black Sox). But seldom have such
high-profile antics converged in one couple’s mutual faux pas. By now you’ve no doubt heard about Gisele and Tom’s “Shotgun
Wedding,” as the New York Post called their Costa Rican vow-renewal on Sunday. (Whether the event was scheduled for the sake
of guests absent the first time around or merely for the fiduciary opportunity to sell exclusive photos is unclear.) No, the Bradys
weren’t the ones firing the shots, but the two heretofore known for impossible aesthetic perfection — and for good manners —
are fast seeing their commingled wattage dim. So what better time than this particular moment in pop culture cross-referencing to
look back on the singular bad behavior of some of Gisele’s and Tom’s infamous colleagues? — Sarah Haight and Jessica Iredale
BRADY BY STEVE EICHNER; HUTTON BY STEPHANE FEUGERE; NESBIT BY A.S. CAmPBEll/GEORGE EASTmAN HOUSE/GETTY ImAGES; STEROIDS BY Al BEllO/GETTY ImAGES; SEYmOUR, EVANGElISTA BY RON GAlEllA, lTD./WIREImAGE; VICK BY JONATHAN ERNST/GETTY ImAGES; TYSON BY GEORGE TIEDEmANN/SPORTS IllUSTRATED/GETTY ImAGES
Linda Evangelista: Charles Barkley: Barkley
ROSE BY WAlTER IOOSS JR./SPORTS IllUSTRATED/GETTY ImAGES; BURRESS BY JEFF ZElEVANSKY/GETTY ImAGES; SARKOZY BY DOmINIqUE CHARRIAU/WIREImAGE; mOSS BY mATT KEEBlE/SPlASH NEWS; CAmPBEll BY lAWRENCE SCHWARTZWAlD/SPlASH NEWS; PHElPS BY JENNIFER mITCHEll/SPlASH NEWS; BARKlEY BY GIlBERT POlICE/SPlASH NEWS
Cubicle-dwellers ended 2008 with a bang
everywhere took — almost. The former NBA
note in 1990 when star was pulled over on New
Evangelista summed Year’s Eve after blowing a
up the working habits stop sign in Scottsdale, Ariz.,
of the supermodel set and charged with a DWI. His
to Vogue’s Jonathan stated excuse: He was rushing Gisele
Van Meter in one not- to receive oral sex from his Bündchen
so-humble phrase: “We female passenger. He also and Tom
don’t wake up for less asked the arresting officer Brady
than $10,000 a day.” “to admit she was hot.”
Evelyn Nesbit: A long-ago troublemaking
temptress, artist’s model and chorus girl, Nesbit
served as a star witness in 1906 at the trial of her
husband, Harry Thaw, for the murder of her former
lover, Stanford White. Her appearance made her a
tabloid “It” girl, a status, alas, she couldn’t hold
on to forever, and she faded into obscurity.
Lauren Hutton: During an appearance on the
“Today” show last year, Hutton, know since her
heyday as outspoken and opinionated, weighed in
on the depiction of women in “Sex and the City.”
“It’s written by guys, who happen to be gay, who
are sluts. That’s what I think,” she said, thereby
alienating a sizable share of her fashion-industry
Carla Bruni: Before she
became First Lady of s Plaxico Burress: During an evening of
France, Carla Bruni was bad ideas — not to mention bad fashion —
plenty adventurous in the Giants wide receiver shot himself in the
matters of love. At one s Pete Rose: Rose found thigh with his unregistered Glock concealed
point, she struck up himself banned from in the waistband of the sweatpants he wore
s Naomi Campbell: The grande baseball (including the on a sojourn to the New York club Latin
dame of model scandal, an affair with Raphael
Enthoven, then married Hall of Fame, for which Quarter. Last week, Burress got a pink slip
Campbell has a rap sheet longer he was a shoo-in) for from the Giants, making him a free agent.
than her famous gams. After to Justine Lévy, the
daughter of Bernard- betting on his own team He’s currently facing two counts of second-
hurling her jewel-encrusted while managing the degree criminal possession of a weapon,
cell phone at a housekeeper in Henri Lévy. Bruni and
Enthoven have a son Cincinnati Reds. with a court hearing set for June 15.
2006, Campbell was supposedly
reformed by a community- together, and Bruni has Mike Tyson:
service stint. Alas, last year she waved off rumors that Among the former
was arrested again at Heathrow she was at one point heavyweight champ
on suspicion of assaulting a involved with Enthoven’s and facial-tattoo
police officer over a piece of lost father. And, oh yes: fan’s offenses were
luggage. Now she’s banned from On the eve of her first threatening to eat
British Airways for life. official state visit with Lennox Lewis’
President Nicholas children, taking a
Sarkozy to Britain, a bite out of Evander
nude photo of Bruni was Holyfield’s ear and,
auctioned at Christie’s most seriously,
for a cool $91,000. raping a 19-year-
Stephanie Seymour: old woman, for
Axl Rose said fiancée which he served
Seymour assaulted three years in
him during a 1992 prison.
Christmas party. She
said he assaulted her
and that they had never
even been engaged.
Seventeen years later,
the two have only a
“November Rain” video
to commemorate their
s Kate Moss: Fashion’s original
waif got caught on a cell-phone
camera sniffing a suspicious
substance in 2005. Within days, s Michael Vick: Even before his dog-fighting
and despite rushing into rehab, exploits, the former Atlanta Falcons star
she was dropped by a number quarterback behaved badly enough to inspire the
of high-profile clients, some of “Really?” segment of SNL’s Weekend Update.
whom, including Chanel and After his July 2007 arrest and conviction for
Burberry, rehired her. More running “Bad Newz Kennels” out of his 15-acre
recently — last week — Kate s Michael Phelps: The
s Steroid Studs: The roster of ill-repute includes Jason Giambi, Mark property in Surry County, Va., he was sentenced to
was on best, if mute, behavior 16-time Olympic medalist
McGwire, Roger Clemens, Jose Canseco, Barry Bonds (allegedly) and, 23-months in federal prison and will be released
during a series of Topshop swam out of line when he
most recently, Alex Rodriguez, who, as was very clear in a recent Details two months early to home confinement in May.
festivities in New York, until was photographed at a party
magazine piece, still loves himself anyway.
finally they got the better of her. smoking out of a bong. He
Obviously fed up with the photo subsequently was suspended
The Black Sox: They were the Chicago White Sox until several members of the 1919 World Series-bound team, including
ops, on Thursday night she from competition for three
Arnold Gandil, Eddie Cicotte, Oscar Felsch, “Shoeless” Joe Jackson, Fred McMullin, George “Buck” Weaver, Charles Risberg
shouted at a photographer to months and lost his deal
and Claude “Lefty” Williams, conspired to throw the Series. They were all subsequently banned from baseball.
“Give me a f---ing moment!” with Kellogg’s.
6 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009
Dennis Basso’s dyed
fitch duffle coat and
leather belt. Andy &
Debb’s blouse; Only
is a bright side.
it this season
with a neon
luxurY to the
winds of winter.
— bobbi Queen
SidE PHOTOS BY THOMAS iANNACCONE
WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 7
Jerry Sorbara’s dyed
Swakara lamb paw
jacket, trimmed in
curly lamb, for Neiman
Marcus. Rag & Bone’s
dress; Badgley Mischka
necklace; Michael Kors
boots; Gestuz leggings.
Chris Benz’s sheared mink
peacoat and silk blouse.
Gilles Mendel’s dyed, Adrienne Landau’s knitted, hooded rabbit
plucked mink coat and vest. Only Hearts’ turtleneck; Diesel
dress for J.Mendel. leggings; Stuart Weitzman boots; jewelry
Badgley Mischka bangle; and hair comb from Barbara Flood’s Closet;
Emilio Cavallini tights; Dennis Basso belt.
earrings from Barbara
MODEL: JULES/ONE; HAIR BY DANIELLE IRENE FOR ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO; MAKEUP BY MIZU FOR SUSAN PRICE; FASHION ASSISTANT: KAYLA PASSONS
8 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009
Europe’s Luxury Players Get Personal
Continued from page one
with them directly. It’s not only sending them catalogues.”
“Our philosophy is if you are in the true luxury business, the way to talk to custom-
ers is one-to-one,” agreed Patrick Thomas, ceo of Hermès International. “This year we
are going to refocus our activity in our stores in order to bring more customers in and
devote attention to them. We’ve always done this, but we’re trying to intensify it.”
Thomas estimated there is at least one event per day in a Hermès store somewhere
in the world. These include exhibitions, cocktail parties and product demonstrations
around speciﬁc products, including Hermès silk scarves and how to wear them.
“The real focus for stores and for retail right now is to get trafﬁc that’s not associ-
ated with sales,” said industry consultant Robert Burke of New York-based Robert
Burke & Associates. “People are going to get creative.”
Hermann said her focus is on “small, humble and efﬁcient” events with a focus on
individuality in terms of services and special products “you shouldn’t miss.”
For example, next month at Barneys New York, YSL will unveil a “new vintage”
collection of iconic styles made of fabrics “recycled” from its inventories. And in June,
in tandem with YSL parent PPR’s release of the documentary ﬁlm “Home” on World
Environment Day June 5, the French house plans to create special products and give
away free copies of the Yann Arthus-Bertrand movie on DVD.
Ferragamo ceo Michele Norsa said six months ago he decided to shift a portion of
marketing investments to in-store events to generate consumer interest, especially in
this economic phase.
“I think one must be creative when it comes to attracting consumers who are inun-
dated with invites and are used to wine-and-cheese cocktails, using the brain more
Jimmy Choo hosted
than the wallet,” he said. “It’s important to tie
a shopping event in
oneself to cultural events, to charities, to link
the brand to celebrities or to important events
such as [Milan’s] Salone del Mobile,” which
takes place later this month.
Echoing other observers, Hermès’ Thomas In recent months in the U.S., Choo also partnered with the
noted its customer-focused initiatives are decen- American Heart Association, Easter Seals and Ballet Florida
tralized, and managers are pressed to ﬁnd “new to host shopping events for top clients and charity supporters.
ways of talking about the product, the quality “Nothing can replace the personal one-on-one
and the know-how” to assorted local markets. touch between our teams in the stores and the clients,”
Hermès recently hosted an exhibition of Schulman stressed.
quirky photos by Austrian artist Erwin Wurm Angela Ahrendts, ceo of Burberry, agreed customers
in its Paris ﬂagship on the Rue du Faubourg want personal and specialized events, as compared with
Saint-Honoré “and it brought in quite a few large-scale ones, which don’t seem “appropriate” in the
people,” Thomas said. current climate. “They are an integral part of maintaining
The images, which feature Hermès men’s our momentum, even in this downturn,” she said.
wear and accessories, are now making a tour Last month, Burberry creative director Christopher
of Hermès stores in the Chinese cities of Bailey hosted a men’s wear event at Barneys New York in
Dalian, Shanghai and Beijing. Manhattan, which generated strong media attention, espe-
Thomas also said Hermès would open three cially online.
or four temporary stores this year — including a “With that kind of return on investment, of course we
seasonal one in East Hampton, N.Y. — as anoth-
er way to create an innovative shopping event.
“ We see these the client, a way
YSL opened a “pop-up” boutique for
its Edition Unisex collection in downtown
Manhattan for a week last February, which at-
tracted some 2,000 customers. to get closer to deliver
great customer service and build
The brand just repeated the experiment
in Hong Kong. “We not only generated turn-
over, but attracted new customers as well,”
Joshua Schulman, ceo at Jimmy Choo, said
a long-term relationship that will
he’s increasing “high-touch” store-based hap- outlast the economic turbulence in
penings, including charity events and styling
“We see these events as a way to get closer
to the client, deliver great customer service — Joshua Schulman, Jimmy Choo
and build a long-term relationship that will
outlast the economic turbulence in the air,” are going to continue to invest in these type of events,”
he explained. “We have found this to be an ef- A photo by Erwin Wurm, displayed in Hermès shops, features its men’s wear. Ahrendts said.
fective strategy to reach out to established and The brand also hosted an event for its new Notting Hill
new clients when trafﬁc is down in many shopping destinations.” children’s wear store to raise awareness for the Burberry Foundation and the young
Late last year, Choo invited its top 80 U.K. clients to co-founder Tamara Mellon’s people it supports. Coming up next is a launch event for Burberry’s ﬂagship in Beijing,
private residence in London for a trunk show, makeovers and assorted pampering, and multiple events program for its new stand-alone children’s wear stores globally.
leading to orders in excess of 50,000 British pounds, or about $71,500 at current ex- “We are continuing to invest in training our retail staff to increase our level of ser-
change. Teams are also organizing pop-up concessions at Harvey Nichols stores in vice to our customers and improving the luxury feel for the client at all levels, which
Birmingham, Leeds, Bristol and Manchester to duplicate the “Choo experience.” also includes investing in our global visual merchandising,” Ahrendts said. “We are
also reallocating resources into our new digital marketing strategy for more reach
and doing multiple regional events, where we are able to engage the consumer in a
much more impactful way.”
John Hooks, deputy managing director at Giorgio Armani, said its stores are the
principal location for trunk shows, cocktails, press and charity events, including one
recently in London with the Chelsea soccer team, which the designer dresses.
“A store can be considered as a mirror of a particular philosophy of style,” Hooks
said. “While there, all the guests can in fact enjoy and literally experience the de-
signer’s tastes and ideas. The best events are tailored — so red carpet gowns work
well in Hollywood, soccer works well in Milan. Another activity that works well, we
ﬁnd, is special private shopping hours for select clients.”
Seeing a need to attract new and younger customers to its historic Hamburg loca-
tion, Jil Sander recently held a small fashion show and cocktail party for 250 guests,
which boosted trafﬁc from established and new clients for the week after.
“Trafﬁc in the store seems to be the magic formula at this moment and we are
evaluating cross marketing activities with luxury brands besides the fashion business
to create additional excitement,” ceo Gian Giacomo Ferraris said.
Prada recently hosted a series of events in which it invited prominent stylists to
customize its windows, in addition to upping its trunk shows, special installations
“All these events have an immediate return on the store’s sales but more in gener-
al, they contribute in creating and renovating the consumer interest for the brand and
its products, a beneﬁt that is tangible in the medium to long term,” a Prada spokes-
man said. “We’re well aware that the most faithful clientele represents an essential
A view of YSL’s pop-up shop in New asset to the brand, especially in difﬁcult market conditions.”
York for its Edition Unisex line.
— With contributions from Alessandra Ilari and Samantha Conti
WWD, tuesDay, april 7, 2009 9
Textile & Trade Report
Buyers Go Conservative at Interstoff Asia Joe Lin, general manager at Taiwan’s Sinberly
Z Zegna to Show In Milan
By Emilie Marsh
By Andrea Li
International, which exports organic cotton and recycled MILAN — Z Zegna is coming home.
HONG KONG — Buyers bargain hunted their way through bamboo and charcoal to Europe, said the sourcing of eco The designer sportswear collection from
the Interstoff Asia textile fair here, pressuring manufac- textiles has dwindled because it doesn’t make economic Italian men’s wear brand Ermenegildo Zegna is
turers to cut prices and committing to smaller volumes as sense to buyers. moving its runway show to Milan from New York
concerns about the global recession loomed large. “Many brands still have an interest in eco textiles, but starting in June, WWd has learned.
Many of the 163 international exhibitors showing at they are not placing orders right now,” Lin said. For the past four seasons, Z Zegna has
the three-day fair that ended March 20 said converting Manufacturers are taking an active approach to man- shown during New York Fashion Week and the
buyer interest into orders was difficult, although event aging the downturn. Some are developing special-purpose Ermenegildo Zegna line hosts a runway presen-
organizer Messe Frankfurt said visitor turnout was up 11 and innovative fabrics, while others are exploring ways of tation in Italy each season.
percent to 7,000 from last autumn’s show. producing cheaper products for the mass market. gildo Zegna, Ermenegildo Zegna group chief
“Everyone is shopping around these days to get the Japanese manufacturer Ishinco recently started pro- executive officer, described the move as “a stra-
best deals, but there have not been too many orders,” said ducing its own specialty polyester fabric mix in a bid to tegic decision…to highlight Z Zegna’s individu-
Kenny Chan, a sales representative at fabric manufactur- sharpen its competitive edge. It also has shifted some of al market position and identity” and increase
er Top South International in Shanghai. “There has been its output in Japan to Chinese factories, where operating the label’s exposure to international buyers
more buyer interest recently.” costs are on average 50 percent to 70 percent lower. and press.
Nicola Mullen, a design manager at Mosaic Fashions, “There are two ways of weathering this downturn,” “I am adamant that
the parent company of U.K. high street fashion brands said Fred Arai, Ishinco’s general manager. “You can ei- showing both Ermen-
egildo Zegna and Z
Zegna in Milan will
up 11 percent to
Zegna group as the
global leader in the
men’s wear industry,”
Launched in spring
2004, Z Zegna made its
runway debut in New York in February 2007.
The venue for Z Zegna’s spring-summer show
has yet to be decided. Ermenegildo Zegna, which
made its runway debut in January 2008, shows at
its headquarters on via Savona.
Z Zegna represents 15 percent of Ermen-
egildo Zegna’s sales, which grew 8.3 percent
photos by Gareth Jones
to 843.3 million euros, or $1.16 billion at aver-
age exchange, in 2007. Last year’s volume isn’t
The luxury group is aiming for global sales of
one billion euros by 2010 — the brand’s centen-
nial. Ermenegildo Zegna counts 577 stores in 86
Karen Millen, Warehouse, Oasis and Whistles, said it was ther evolve into the more specialized areas in order to Milan Fashion Week runs June 20
important to be realistic. set yourself apart, or reduce the production cost of your to 24.
“It is crucial to look at fabrics that are relevant to the textiles for the mass market. We have done both.”
season and on trend,” she said. “Rather than going for Top South International has created its own fabrics as For Zegna runway looks, see
many different fabrics, it’s better to get five to six really well, mixing polyester and spandex, and is using new yarns. WWD.com.
phenomenal ones. Less is more in this climate.” “We haven’t secured orders for the new items yet,
Textile manufacturers, adversely impacted by the eco- but this is a way of building customer confidence,”
nomic crisis, have seen order volumes fall 10 percent to
50 percent, and suppliers in China have resorted to cost
Chan said. “We are signaling to customers that we are
still in business.” Burberry Seeks to Void
License With Hartmarx
cutting in an effort to sustain business viability. Prospects for an economic recovery are uncertain, but
Top South International closed its Hong Kong office well-positioned fashion brands and textile manufacturers
earlier this year so it could cut prices 10 to 15 percent. said the downturn presents emerging market opportuni-
“Everywhere in China, factories are cutting their profit ties, especially for eco textiles. BURBERRY IS SEEKINg TO vOId ITS TAI-
margins,” Chan said. “With orders plummeting, there is no “Manufacturers with the financial capability of mov- lored clothing license with the bankrupt
way businesses can survive if they don’t offer better prices ing into greener production should do it now, because Hartmarx Corp.
to buyers who have become very price conscious.” this provides a competitive advantage,” said Pat Nie According to documents filed in the Northern
Some manufacturers believe eco fabrics are likely to Woo, director of Hong Kong-based yarn producer Central district of Illinois bankruptcy court, Burberry
be hit hardest because of the higher cost of production. Textiles. “It is an opportunity to move ahead of the game. Limited, a New York-based subsidiary of
Executives at Sapphire, a vertically integrated textile To hold off, in my opinion, would be a mistake.” Burberry group plc, wants out of the license
manufacturer based in Lahore, Pakistan, said organic Hans Buehr, Triumph International’s head of pur- Hartmarx has held since 1997, citing failure to
fabrics lacked the resilience of mainstream products. chasing, said: “Companies should pursue sustainabil- meet terms of the agreement.
“With price-conscious buyers more cautious about ity even more strongly. It would send the wrong signal The key issue is the sale of Hartmarx to a third
what they are sourcing, the focus right now is on consum- if people took the cheapest exit option just because party. The court papers, which were filed April 3,
ers’ immediate needs, not environmental worries,” said times are hard. Those with a long-term strategy will argue that in the event of a sale Burberry’s fall
executive director Nabeel Abdullah. be rewarded.” orders would be filled by a new owner. Since li-
censing agreements cannot be transferred with-
out a licensor’s consent, Burberry said it has the
Filo Mills Tone Down Fall Offerings rather than shine were what buyers
right to terminate the contract now in order to
line up a new manufacturer.
By Kerry Olsen giovanni Tessari, Lurex’s mar- At FFM, the French company was “Burberry needs to make arrangement for its fall
keting director, acknowledged the exhibiting for the first time under the product now,” the company said in the filing, adding
MILAN — Yarn manufacturers exhibit- high end of the market was ex- Safil name, the Biella-based business it “should not be required to deal with a licensee
ing at the 31st edition of Filo pushed periencing continuing difficulty. that took over FFM in November. not of its choosing.”
new approaches in an effort to fight However, Tessari said the company With production now shifted to Safil’s The filing also said Hartmarx breached its
the pressures of the economic crisis. intends to keep developing yarns to Bulgaria factories, FFM exhibited licensing agreement by failing to furnish state-
A 7 percent increase in exhibi- entice buyers. a range of mohair and fancy yarns ments for both yearly sales and royalty payments
tor attendance to 2,700 people Trans-polyester fibers that can be along with a new “superkid cape mo- related to its licensed Burberry product.
boosted spirits for many at the two- dyed and overdyed in shades such as hair” created specifically for humid details of the licensing agreement, including
day fair that ended March 19. Paolo browns, purples and violets were on Asian summers. the amount Hartmarx currently owes Burberry,
Monfermoso, Filo’s project manager, show from Lurex. Foil-effect yarns dominique Carpentier, FFM’s were redacted in the court documents, but
said the “fair was holding its own.” were on display, but without the for- commercial director, noted that the partnership has been sizeable for Hickey
Exhibitors responded to the mer gold and silver color palette, buyer attendance was predominant- Freeman, the Hartmarx-owned brand that pro-
downturn with innovative product which Tessari explained is now “too ly made up of Italians, with almost duces Burberry clothing at its Rochester, N.Y.,
and “previously untried formulas,” linked to the concept of luxury.” no Americans. factory. According to financial documents filed
Monfermoso said. Como-based Trendfil offered a The U.S. market was also a con- with the court, Hickey Freeman paid Burberry
The lineup of 80 exhibitors em- similar range of metallic polyester cern for Marchi & Fildi. Caternia almost $500,000 in the 90 days before the com-
phasized casual yarns and a more yarns that could be blended with silk dissegna, director of the company, pany filed for bankruptcy on Jan. 23.
restrained luxury offering. New me- and wool, giving the natural fibers a said American buyers used to be “big The license between Hartmarx and Burberry
tallic shades such as copper were higher fashion look. business” for the mill, but the weak is set to expire in mid-2010.
presented without excessive bril- “Softer metallic shades were right dollar has chased much of that busi- Hartmarx, which declined comment, has until
liance. vendors also continued to for the market at the moment,” said ness away. However, with exchange April 11 to file objections. The motion is scheduled
push blends of natural fibers with Francesco Boselli, general manager rates improving, dissegna hoped to to be heard on April 14.
viscose and modal yarns. at Trendfil, adding that brightness “regain a part of the market again.” — Brenner Thomas
10 WWD, tuesDay, april 7, 2009
Companies Push Green Practices Despite Sour Economy
By WWD Staff Looks for Loomstate for
Eco-friEndly, sustainablE and Ethical arE Loomstate for Target
words that have become part of the permanent lexicon Barneys Green.
of manufacturers and retailers in recent years. from
the smallest 500-square-foot shop to the mass chain with
1,000-plus stores, companies are looking for ways to lower
their carbon footprints, conserve energy, identify ethical
sourcing partners and educate consumers about the ben-
efits of saving the planet, and consumers themselves are
becoming more interested in the topic as well. according
to a survey by Wsl strategic retail, 55 percent of consum-
ers buy organic products, up from 49 percent a year ago.
Many companies are making investments that will
lead to cost-saving efficiencies. a healthy regard for the
environment has become part of many firms’ identities,
from Patagonia to yes, Wal-Mart. for others, such as the
Gap, eco-sensitive products and ethical sourcing is part
of the culture, something that employees have come to
expect and consumers increasingly demand.
sylvie bénard, director of environment at lVMh,
said the idea of environmental initiatives being more
expensive than traditional methods is not necessarily
true, adding that maintaining environmental efforts in
the downturn makes economic sense. “the message that
the environment costs a lot has passed,” she said. “it
has really evolved.”
bénard, noted that lVMh will maintain its invest-
ments this year in everything from boutiques that con-
sume less energy to carbon audits to water measurement.
these investments will ultimately lead to cost-savings for
the group. to companies wondering whether they can
maintain their commitment to the environment in the
midst of an economic crisis, she said, “We must not stop
photos by talaya Centeno
everything because the financial situation isn’t as good
as we would hope. these are resources that will one day
disappear. they are irreplaceable. no matter what the
financial situation or the social situation, we have to con-
tinue to tackle that.”
a stricter regulatory landscape, such as Europe’s
registration, Evaluation, authorisation and restriction
of chemicals, (rEach), which came into force last year,
is prompting some companies to jump on the green bandwagon. businesses must re- such as france and the netherlands. Meanwhile, “investment piece” has become the
spond to new obligations, economic crisis or not. some government policies see green industry’s mantra, touted by luxury brands and magazines, retail experts said.
as the route to recovery. the french Ministry of Ecology is working on developing a french consumers are fed up with clothes that don’t last. “We are starting to see
label for eco-friendly products by 2011 and possibly lowering the Vat on products more people complaining that clothing isn’t good quality and falls apart too quickly,”
deemed eco-friendly. said nathalie ruelle, professor and sustainable fashion consultant at the institue
h&M plans to increase its organic cotton products stable by 50 percent this year, francais de la Mode, referring to an ifM study last october. “this falls into the slow
given consumers’ desire to buy sustainable products, said harsha Vardhan, h&M’s fashion trend — products that are fashionable but have a longer life span,” she said.
global environment coordinator. “Given that most factories have stopped expanding ruelle praised h&M’s upscale cos chain, which “offers beautiful, quality clothing
in the current climate, the credit crunch is actually the best time for factories to em- with good finishes and materials that last.”
bark on cleaner production programs,” she said. “the price gap between organic and “somewhere along the way, we forgot about making things to last,” said david
ordinary cotton has narrowed sharply from a previous 100 percent to 20 to 30 percent hieatt, founder of the Welsh sustainable brand howies. “We convinced ourselves that
due to higher production volume and the growing number of suppliers, making this a being different, being new, being quirkier was the thing. Quality was put at the back of
much more affordable alternative.” the queue.” the company is trying to change course. hand-me-downs, howies’ latest
Pat nie Woo, director of central textiles, said at the interstoff asia Essential tex- collection, has prices as high as 400 pounds, or $593, for a classic outdoor tweed-lined
tile trade show in hong Kong last month, “We are almost debt free, which means we jacket, but comes with a 10-year guarantee.
have the financial flexibility to continue pursuing sustainable projects. despite the for lVMh’s bénard, a product’s longevity is a top priority. in fact, lVMh is de-
economic downturn, central textiles will go ahead with our sustainable development veloping a product life cycle analysis tool that will be used by product design groups
plans, but of course, these plans must make financial across the company’s fashion houses. “the goal is that
sense. the economic recession presents an opportunity designers take environmental considerations into ac-
to move ahead of the game.” count at the design stage, and eventually we won’t need
from her small store on first avenue in downtown
Manhattan, lisa linhardt sells her environmentally sen-
We must not stop everything the environmental team any more,” she said.
barneys new y ork has made organic and eco-friend-
sitive jewelry: engagement rings with ethical diamonds
mined in canada, rings and necklaces made from wood
because the financial situation isn’t ly fashion a priority. loomstate for barneys Green, a
100 percent organic cotton collection, will introduce a
as good as we would hope.
scraps donated by a furniture company and jewelry made series of t-shirts inspired by endangered wildlife for
from organic south american tagua seeds. fall. spring debuts include Koi suwannagate’s collec-
“customers are reacting positively to it and they are — Sylvie Bénard, LVMH tion made with organic silk or vintage cashmere and
willing to pay more for it,” linhardt said. “in order to overstock threads, raf simons for Jil sander organic
be green, you have to have an environmental conscience Knits’ exclusive 100 percent organic cashmere collec-
and a social conscience.” tion and stefano Pilati’s yves saint laurent line made from ysl fabric that would
linhardt avoids using newly mined gold collected under unsafe or inhumane condi- have been destroyed or thrown out. barneys also encourages customers to recycle.
tions, termed “dirty gold.” rather, she works with recycled gold, although finding manu- Worn jeans can be exchanged for a small discount on a new pair.
facturers that share her commitment is difficult. Prices in her store range from $30 for Patagonia, the Ventura, calif.-based outdoor clothier whose business is based on
a ring made from Ecoresin — 40 percent recycled plastic with wood inlays — to $25,000 sustainability, places an emphasis on timeless, classic designs that last. over the last
for a custom engagement ring or cocktail ring with diamonds or lonsdaleites. four years, Patagonia’s sales have grown from $75 million to $300 million. “our brand
anthropologie is tapping into Earth day, april 22, to connect with customers. is really resonating right now,” said casey sheehan, Patagonia’s chief executive officer.
organic chefs and food advocates will appear in several anthropologie stores, while Green initiatives are paying off for Patagonia. doubling the size of a warehouse using the
other locations will host farm-to-table and gardening events. in the spirit of recycling, leadership in Energy and Environmental design (lEEd) building ratings system cost 7
the retailer is offering reinvention workshops where consumers learn to rework car- percent more than using traditional techniques, but because the building is 40 percent
digan sweaters and revitalize t-shirts. more energy efficient, Patagonia saw a return on its investment in three years.
loomstate for target, casual men’s and women’s apparel made from certified or- Gap inc. is engaged on several fronts. “We’re working to reduce energy use in our
ganic cotton, will debut at the retailer on april 19. “We continue to do ongoing re- stores, distribution centers and headquarters,” a spokeswoman said. “by the end
search about what our guests want and it’s obvious to us that more guests are craving of 2007, we reduced consumption by 12.7 percent. at old navy we relamped all the
eco-friendly products,” said a target spokeswoman. “in general, that’s been a trend. stores with energy-efficient bulbs that will cut energy costs by 10 percent.” the compa-
there really isn’t a department in the store that hasn’t been impacted by eco-friend- ny installed a 1 megawatt solar power system in its fresno distribution center, which
ly.” target is working on reducing packaging of existing products, and in conjunction will generate 1.9 million kilowatt hours. at Gap’s san francisco headquarters, there’s
with General Electric, on april 19 will give away one million reusable bags containing no bottled water for sale, cutlery is used in the cafeteria and every office contains a
coupons for compact fluorescent light bulbs. “We have a really integrated and wholis- compost and recycling bin and tiny trash can that makes employees “mindful about
tic approach that encompasses merchandising, marketing, sustainability and energy creating waste,” the spokeswoman said. Gap is reducing water use, recycling scraps
management,” said the spokeswoman. from cutting room floors and including alternative fibers in all collections. banana
one of the strongest emerging trends in Europe is a move away from throwaway republic, meanwhile, launched a second sustainable line as part of its heritage col-
fashion toward more lasting apparel. h&M’s first-quarter sales declined 5 percent on lection. Gap inc. last month was ranked the number-one retailer among 100 best cor-
a like-for-like basis, suggesting the chain isn’t immune to the economy in key markets porate citizens by cro magazine for the fourth year in a row.
t h e u l t i m a t e c o t t o n f o r f a s h i o n
12 WWD, tuesDay, april 7, 2009
Italian Firms Invest in Communities Producing Natural Fibers value attributed to the fiber has created a primary economic resource for the
By Emilie Marsh
people with the added value of benefiting the protection of the breed,” Loro
MILAN — For Italian luxury firms, sustainable development is good karma and Piana said.
good business. Indeed, promoting a fiber’s origins also helps create awareness of value for
Ermenegildo Zegna, Loro Piana and textile mills Cotonificio Honegger and the end consumer.
Marchi & Fildi are among those investing in development programs support- “Our consumers have always appreciated the value originating from
ing local communities that produce natural fibers, including cotton, cash- authentic quality….I trust that these characteristics are being appreci-
mere and vicuña, to put value back in the supply chain. ated more and more and believe that purchasing an item of intrinsic
“The quality of our products is based on building a close relationship value might be considered a good investment,” Loro Piana said.
with and supporting the local communities of the world’s finest fibers,” Zegna agrees. “Raw fiber is one of the basic elements responsible
said Paolo Zegna, chairman of Ermenegildo Zegna and president of the for the quality of the final product, the image Ermenegildo Zegna
Milan textile trade show Unica. is famous for. You need to be able to follow and control the process
Hence, Ermenegildo Zegna invested 1 million euros in a well-drilling — from the raw fibers to the very end product. Natural fibers are
project for cashmere producers in Mongolia and vicuña producers in Peru. expensive, but they have added value.” For fall, Zegna unveiled its
“We found that the one thing most communities needed was better Oasi Cashmere, which is treated with eco-friendly dyes made with
water supply. It’s not about just sending a check. It’s about doing the wood and herbal pigments.
research and finding out what the people really need to improve their Although the current economic environment has arguably ac-
lives, and subsequently that of the livestock,” Zegna said, adding that celerated consumer interest in product origins and led to more
the company was investing in the “long term.” conscious purchasing decisions, Ermenegildo Zegna’s support for
Ermenegildo Zegna’s support for world communities also extends local fiber producers can be traced back more than 40 years, when
to India, where this year, through its Foundation Zegna initiative the company first introduced its annual trophy for the best natu-
and in collaboration with the Care & Share nonprofit organization, ral-fiber production in 1963. Dubbed the Vellus Aureum Trophy,
the company established a micro-credit project for women, giving the prize is still awarded to the finest woolen fleece worldwide.
them access to small loans and courses in artisanal trades, such Similarly, Loro Piana’s relationship with the Peruvian communities
as weaving, embroidering or tailoring, to enable them to set up spans over 20 years, and the company signed an agreement with the
businesses of their own. local government in 1994 to protect the vicuña species and provide
Loro Piana in June moved from investing in the animals it assistance to communities.
shears to acquiring the land they feed on by purchasing 2,000 hect- More recently, Marchi & Fildi, yarn makers based in Biella, Italy,
ares in Peru — an area about six times the size of Central Park — last year launched Ecotec yarn, a yarn made from recycled cotton. This
to preserve the vicuña, which had been in danger of extinction. year, for every kilo of Ecotec sold, 0.05 euros will go to nonprofit organization
“We rely on the production of the local communities from Man’s Brothers, which promotes social and economical development in Latin
whom we buy the majority of the fiber produced in the Peruvian America and Africa. Ecotec will directly benefit Malika, a neighborhood on
Andes. By making a live vicuña more valuable than a dead one for the the outskirts of Dakar in Senegal, by training 100 Senegalese minors in related
communities, we have established a virtuous cycle,” said co-chief executive trades at their local factory.
officer Pier Luigi Loro Piana, who, together with his brother Sergio, named the Meanwhile, Cotonificio Honegger, one of Italy’s biggest shirting fabric
land after their father, Franco Loro Piana. mills, based in Bergamo, Italy, opened its first shirt manufacturing company
“The fiber is the most precious and finest fiber in the world,” he added. in the former Italian colony of Eritrea, a country on the Red Sea just north of
He’s not kidding. Six vicuñas need to be sheared for one sweater, and Ethiopia. Called ZA.ER, the mill boasts a 500-strong local workforce and
35 for a coat. According to Loro Piana, one kilogram of vicuña costs 10 offers classes in textiles and Italian, and also hosts a nursery to care for
times more than the highest quality cashmere. Oasi cashmere coat by employees’ children while they work. Cotonificio Honegger projected the
“The project guarantees the socioeconomic value gained: The high Ermenegildo Zegna. Eritrean project would result in the creation of 400 new jobs by 2010.
U.N. Seeks to Reduce Synthetics
The United Nations
is getting down to The U.N. plans to
earth. reverse trends in fiber
In an effort to im- production in 2009.
prove the world’s
supply of natural re-
sources, the U.N. has
declared 2009 the
International Year of
photo by b.A. StewArt & J.e. Fletcher/NAtioNAl geogrAphic/getty imAgeS
is meant not only to
protect the environ-
ment, but also to safe-
guard the commu-
nities that produce
vegetal fibers like
jute, flax and ramie,
as well as camel hair
and cashmere. Such
fibers have seen their
market share cut by
the rise of synthetic
fibers over the last
To help reverse
that trend, the U.N.
is aiming to ensure
that producers have
the technology and
knowledge to pro-
duce fibers of the
highest quality. In Peru, for example, the U.N. Food and Agriculture
Organization, or FAO, is working with farmers to improve their al-
paca production, which has suffered due to years of bulk trading.
The FAO is also working to cut the amount of pesticides used
by farmers on crops such as cotton, which not only reduces nega-
tive environmental impact, but helps farmers by minimizing depen-
dence on expensive chemicals.
Other goals include raising public awareness and encouraging
public policy with a focus on the success of niche markets, research
and development for new applications of the versatile fibers and
the encouragement of cooperation among industry groups. Events
scheduled for 2009 include displays and fashion shows as well as
conferences, such as the meetings held at the Fashion Institute of
Technology in New York on cotton sustainability, and at the Gaston
College Textile Technology Center in Belmont, N.C., on applications
for alpaca, both held earlier this month.
— Rachel Mascetta
WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 13
MEMO PAD wrong covering Hollywood, but it’s a fine line.
BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD: The downtown Our readers don’t want to know about Suri and
and uptown sets came together on Friday Shiloh’s play date. I don’t even want to know
night for a Champagne-and-canapé VIP affair who they are, but I do.” — Marcy Medina
to celebrate the Society of Illustrators’ newest
exhibit, “The Line of Fashion,” on view at the COAST TO COAST: Katherine Ross, senior
nonprofit’s East 63rd Street gallery through vice president of public relations and
May 2. Curated by artist and author Robert W. communications for LVMH Moët Hennessy
Richards, the show features commercial and Louis Vuitton’s North American operations
editorial work by fashion illustration luminaries since 2005, is no longer a full-time employee
such as Antonio Lopez, Steven Stipelman, Joe of the French luxury group. Ross said she is
Eula, Michael Vollbracht and Kenneth Paul now a consultant for LVMH Inc. and based
Block. While the art form might have gone in Los Angeles, where she has been living
the way of 45-rpm records and 35-mm film for more than two years since her husband,
— WWD and sister publication W Magazine Michael Govan, became director and chief
were among its last bastions — you wouldn’t executive officer of the Los Angeles County
have guessed it given the excited crowd, Museum of Art. Prior to joining LVMH, Ross
which included Vollbracht and Stipelman, as was an executive at Prada Group and, before
well as Narciso Rodriguez, former model Alva that, Sotheby’s North America. — Miles Socha
Chinn, Bill Cunningham and design duo Phillipe
and David Blond. “This particular moment is a INSIDE JOB: Fashionable Parisians (and those
good moment for fashion illustration,” curator who wish they were) now have a new online
Richards explained. “Photography is losing its cheat sheet. Launched last month by Véronique
credibility. Nobody knows what’s real anymore, Roger-Vasselin-Constantinoff, former fashion
what’s not real — is she really that tall? Does she editor in chief for Atmospheres magazine and
have that much hair? Are those really her tits? onetime style consultant for Le Bon Marché,
It’s Photoshop, Photoshop, Photoshop. If you’re Doitinparis.com is a whimsical, mostly Left Bank
going to do fake, you might as well go really take on style, much in the spirit of Daily Candy.
fake and have drawings.” Plus, Richards noted, “Paris is the capital of fashion and art
there’s an economic incentive, now more than de vivre, and yet I found nothing on the net
ever. “Illustrators don’t require hair and makeup, that captured that,” she said. “This site is
a three-room suite and a private plane [to about sharing the real Parisienne’s Paris, her
produce an advertisement or editorial story]. We lifestyle, fashion outlook, bistros, boutiques
just put our stuff in a little bag and we go and and addresses. It reflects the insider’s world.”
do our work and come home.” — Nick Axelrod Run by four full-time staffers with
contributions from about a dozen freelancers,
PRINT IT: Variety’s new editor in chief Tim the site will partner with Atelier des Chefs
Gray spoke out Monday about modernizing for the “recipe of the week” section starting
the 104-year-old Hollywood trade journal, but in May; also in the works are features by
Clockwise from top left: Works by Alvaro, Bil Donovan, Kenneth Paul Block
“modern” in his parlance still includes the actresses, fashion insiders and other high-
and Michael Vollbracht.
print medium. “You have to keep changing to visibility Parisians. Within its first week, the
stay on track, but personally I think print won’t go away.” Gray said the paper is turning Web site drew 2,000 subscriptions to its newsletter and 800 unique users daily. Roger-
a profit, so there are no immediate plans to shutter the daily or weekly editions in favor Vasselin-Constantinoff hopes to boost that to 10,000 unique users daily and turnover of
of the online version. “Our goal is to give them different identities because they have $1.5 million, mainly generated by advertising and commissions from online partnerships,
different audiences,” he said. On the changing Hollywood scene, he said, “I do find it really by spring 2010. Funded by its founder and private investors including Olivier Dassault, Do It
fascinating that the whole world has become more Hollywood obsessed, so you can’t go in Paris counts Dior Beauté among its first advertisers (for Miss Dior Chérie). — Tina Isaac
WWDChina Week in Review
GLOBAL REACH. REGIONAL RELEVANCE. DIGITAL DELIVERY.
The week’s top stories in simpliﬁed and traditional Chinese
Special focus on news impacting China
New edition every Tuesday
LYCRA® FIBER IS A TRADEMARK OF INVISTA.
14 WWD, tuesDay, april 7, 2009
Financial For full daily stock changes, see WWD.com.
Target, Ackman Wrangling Intensifies 10 BEST PERfORmERS
By Evan Clark strength, diversity, experience and DAILY COMPANIES P/E VOLuME AMt
qualifications to provide effective and
targEt Corp and aCtiviSt invES-
. independent oversight and direction to HIgH LOw LASt %CHANgE
tor William ackman continued to trade the company.”
blows on Monday about the size and Shares of target fell 3.4 percent to
composition of the retailer’s board. close at $35.45. 1.36 0.67 General Growth (GGP) 7.2 46451658 0.97 34.72
While the target battle took center another company in ackman’s sights,
stage in retailing, renewed jitters about general growth properties inc., rose
5.07 3.98 Zale (ZLC) - 2076488 4.76 14.42
the health of banks and the apparently 34.7 percent to 97 cents, although the
failed merger between technology gi- beleagured real estate investment trust
ants international Business Machines said it knew of no reason for the surge. 5.6 4.85 Penn Real Estate (PEI) - 930626 5.6 14.29
Corp. and Sun Microsystems inc. drove ackman has been buying shares of the
down the overall market and helped debt-laden mall operator and could re- 1.94 1.50 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 8850 1.94 14.12
trim retail shares 1.3 percent. tain an ownership position in the event
ackman, who heads pershing Square of a bankruptcy. 0.35 0.35 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 1600 0.35 12.90
Capital Management and through it con- the S&p retail index fell 4.17 points
trols 7.8 percent of target’s stock, sent a to 310, which is still 38.9 percent above 3.4 2.84 CBL (CBL) 20.0 2693966 3.37 12.33
letter urging shareholders to elect his its March 6 low. falling back below
proposed slate of five directors — spe- 8,000, the dow Jones industrial average
cialists in the retail, real estate and slid 0.5 percent, or 41.74 points, to
12.65 11.06 Weingarten (WRI) 8.3 4876793 12.36 9.09
credit card areas. in a filing with the 7,975.85 as the iBM-Sun deal appeared
Securities and Exchange Commission to falter. a pickup in mergers and acqui- 0.38 0.36 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 3.5 36559 0.37 5.68
Monday, he described the board’s com- sitions would be a positive sign for the
position as “suboptimal.” economy and one indication that price 7.45 6.55 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 5.4 176860 7.24 4.93
the retailer shot back, asserting: tags, at least for companies, had bot-
“the current target board has the tomed out. 1.70 1.50 Bon-Ton (BONT) - 70491 1.64 4.46
Claiborne’s McComb Sees Pay Fall 13.4% 10 WORST PERfORmERS
WilliaM MCCoMB, ChiEf ExECutivE offiCEr of liz ClaiBornE
inc., took a 13.4 percent pay cut last year, according to an annual filing with the DAILY COMPANIES P/E VOLuME AMt
Securities and Exchange Commission.
McComb’s total compensation of $5.5 million included a salary of $1.3 million, HIgH LOw LASt %CHANgE
the same as in 2007, and stock and option awards valued at $3.8 million. in 2007,
those awards paid $4.5 million.
the former Johnson & Johnson executive, who has led Claiborne since 2006, 8.29 7.25 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 8.6 11167329 7.79 -23.70
also received $127,200 for a company-provided apartment in new york, $13,360 for
private use of car services and a clothing allowance of $6,429.
he hasn’t received non-equity incentive plan compensation in either of his two 0.33 0.29 Phoenix footwear (PXG) - 1700 0.29 -17.14
full years with the company, according to the filing.
Since taking the helm, McComb has worked to reinvent the business against 4.41 3.70 Revlon (REV) 2.2 322571 3.75 -16.85
a backdrop of a rapidly changing department store and retail landscape. in his
first year on the job, after splitting the company into two groups, one for partnered 0.73 0.58 General Growth (GGP) 3.1 5160575 0.62 -8.82
brands and the other for direct brands, he orchestrated the sale or closure of the
majority of 16 underperforming components of its portfolio. McComb hired isaac 0.32 0.31 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 3.4 36807 0.31 -8.15
Mizrahi to remake the firm’s flagship brand, worked to support names such as Juicy
Couture and Kate Spade and, in february, turned over Claiborne’s sourcing opera-
tions to li & fung.
11.56 10.24 True Religion (TRLG) 6.9 678793 10.78 -7.23
in the fiscal year ended Jan. 3, Claiborne posted a $951.8 million loss, after writ-
ing down $683.1 million in goodwill related to legacy acquisitions. net sales for 7.92 7.35 Hanesbrands (HBI) 6.0 2482232 7.49 -7.19
continuing operations dropped 10.3 percent to $3.99 billion.
among the firm’s other top executives, andrew Warren, executive vice presi- 0.28 0.26 frederick’s of Hollywood (fOH) - 14580 0.26 -7.14
dent and chief financial officer, saw his pay increase 1.1 percent to $1.3 million in
2008. david Mctague, executive vice president of partnered brands, logged a 14.8 1.60 1.30 Parlux fragrances (PARL) 20.9 154467 1.35 -6.25
percent rise in compensation to $1.2 million. Both executives joined the company
in mid-2007. 4.46 4.05 CBL (CBL) 9.1 1522406 4.28 -6.14
* Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on
Winona Capital Buys Peter Millar the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss
francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros.
By Brenner Thomas ternational markets. Sources estimate
golf and luxury apparEl MaKEr
peter Millar has a new majority owner.
the company’s annual volume at between
$25 million and $35 million.
“this company has shown steady
Aronsson Group in Joint Venture With AKS
the Sea island Co., the family-owned growth, has a solid distribution base By Marc Karimzadeh istanbul to discuss how we could work
real estate corporation that manages and product that consumers love,” said together, to become reacquainted with
the Cloister resort in georgia, has sold luke reese, Winona’s managing direc- Building on a portfolio that retail in turkey.”
its 60 percent stake in peter Millar to tor. “this year is a tough year for in- includes stakes in Matthew Williamson, While there, he also met many of her
Winona Capital Management, a Chicago- vestment but when companies like this ginny h. and Casall, aronsson group friends and clients in fields such as inter-
based investment group. come up you have to buy when they are formed a joint venture partnership national textiles, production, department
terms were not disclosed, but the for sale.” with istanbul-based retail consultancy and specialty store retailing, real estate
cash deal leaves 40 percent of the While reese said Winona will firm aKS. and food.
company in the hands of the brand’s adopt a hands-off approach to manag- as part of the agreement, the venture, aronsson said although it is too early
two managing principals, founder ing the brand, the firm will help peter called a&a group, aims to create new re- to disclose specific plans for a&a, he
Chris Knott and chief executive offi- Millar ramp up its overseas distribu- tail concepts and expand the distribution hopes it will yield “new innovative con-
cer Scott Mahoney. tion. licensing deals or joint partner- for aronsson’s portfolio brands with stra- cepts for sustainable retailing, market-
“With Winona we found a partner ships in asia and Europe could be tegic partners. aronsson group co-found- ing, and global expansion.”
who didn’t want to change our strategy,” inked by mid-summer. “there’s sig- er Jeffry aronsson completed the details linking Europe and asia, he said
said Mahoney. “they’ve embraced the nificant upside for this brand abroad,” in istanbul, where he met with aKS prin- turkey offers opportunity even in
management and our goals.” reese added. cipal nur akgerman last week. this difficult global economic climate.
launched eight years ago, peter Mahoney said the Cary, n.C.-based aronsson said he first met akgerman however, aronsson stressed he was
Millar’s mix of fairway-friendly sports- company is continuing to post good 12 years ago in istanbul, when aronsson primarily drawn to akgerman’s “busi-
wear and moderately priced styles for numbers at home. the brand added 60 was chief executive officer of oscar de ness and retail acumen coupled with a
men and women is sold to about 300 spe- new doors for fall and is projected to la renta, and she was ceo of Beymen deep and extensive international busi-
cialty stores and nearly 1,000 green grass top 2008’s results this year. department Store group. ness network.”
and resort shops around the country. Winona Capital, which has more “as the aronsson group business de- “turkey is the crossroads of the
according to Mahoney, the brand has than $125 million under management, veloped, i began a dialogue with Ms. Western and Eastern cultures and trade,”
built on double-digit annual sales growth also has stakes in truefitt & hill, a line akgerman from which we both recog- aronsson noted. “add to this almost 30
and in the last 18 months has expanded of men’s grooming products; Boloco, a nized the synergies of our abilities, ex- million tourists per year, and it is a great
into new categories, such as men’s tai- Mexican restaurant concept, and Balle perience, relationships and projects,” he potential window for businesses looking
lored clothing and furnishings, and in- de Match, a maker of tennis apparel. noted. “i was invited by Ms. akgerman to to do business locally and beyond.”
WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 7, 2009 15
Etiqueta Negra Brings Fast Lane to NYC Italy Vows to Rebuild After Quake
By Alessandra Ilari
By Sharon Edelson
AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE IN CENTRAL ITALY THAT KILLED
NEW YORK — The Argentine jet-set lifestyle is on more than 150 people and left tens of thousands homeless, Prime
display at Etiqueta Negra’s new flagship in SoHo. Minister Silvio Berlusconi said Monday the government would
Fast cars and polo are pillars of the Etiqueta provide the funds to rebuild.
Negra concept, conceived by Federico Alvarez Berlusconi, who declared a state of emergency and canceled a
Castillo, who is married to Paula Cahen d’Anvers, trip to Moscow, said, “There will be no problems concerning the
designer of the women’s collection. The two- economic expense because the government has already activated
level, 6,000-square-foot unit at 273 Lafayette Street, the European fund for catastrophes.”
Etiqueta Negra’s ﬁrst store in the U.S., is projected The 6.3 magnitude temblor, which struck about 3:30 a.m.
to do $3 million in sales in its ﬁrst year, according Monday and could be felt in Rome, more than 60 miles southwest,
to a spokesman. triggered major damage in medieval hill towns in the Abruzzo re-
Alvarez Castillo, who has one of the largest col- gion. It was centered in L ’Aquila, which is nestled under the Gran
lections of classic cars in the world, rotates autos A red Alfa Romeo is Sasso, the highest peak of the Apennines.
from the collection between each of his 11 stores parked on the main ﬂoor. At least 1,500 people were injured and rescue teams were
in Argentina. A red Thirties Alfa Romeo greets searching the rubble.
shoppers entering the SoHo unit. Other props in- The Ministry of Internal Affairs in Rome said it was too early to esti-
clude an old Texaco oilcan, rowing oars and a car “We made all these plans before the recession,” mate the damage caused by the quake, the worst to hit Italy since 2002.
dashboard. Walls are painted black and there’s a the spokesman said. “In Argentina, we’re always The region’s resources primarily stem from a few industrial plants,
tin coffered ceiling. in recession. We’re doing well there despite the agriculture and tourism. However, there are a few fashion companies,
An owner of Ellerstina, Argentina’s top-ranked crisis. We’re working on wholesaling in the U.S.” including Brioni, whose managers couldn’t be reached for comment.
polo club, Alvarez Castillo devotes a section of Etiqueta Negra believes in selling timeless Upscale knitwear ﬁrm Gran Sasso’s 400,000-square-foot head-
each store to authentic apparel for playing polo or pieces “that will be in your closet forever,” the quarters is located less than 40 miles from the earthquake’s
watching a match. Aside from polo-speciﬁc attire, spokesman said. A classically tailored white cot- epicenter. “We were all woken up in the middle of the night by
Etiqueta Negra, which means black label or black ton coat is $720; black pants, $220, and a women’s trembling walls and a deafening noise; it was so strong we felt the
tie, offers casual clothing with little in the way of dress shirt with epaulets, $220. The large selec- epicenter could be very close,” said Carlo Di Stefano, marketing
decoration and minimal logos. tion of leather items includes a black leather jack- director of Gran Sasso. “Our initial reaction was to send knitwear
The company touts the quality of its products: et with stitching detail on the shoulders, $1,200; a to the victims who were left with nothing, but we also intend on
boots made by Casa Fagliano, which serves Prince leather blazer, $1,200; a black leather zipper jack- making a donation to a local humanitarian association.”
Charles and the British Royal Family, Argentine et, $700, and a buttery leather jacket with pockets Di Stefano, said he was worried about clients and small retail-
leather for jackets and Peruvian pima cotton for polo in black, beige or dark brown, $1,400. There are ers in L’Aquila. “Our commercial ofﬁces have been trying to reach
shirts. Much of the apparel is manufactured in Italy. basics such as cotton T-shirts and tanks, two jeans them but without success.”
The company plans to open another Manhattan styles and black or white mock-turtleneck sweat- A spokesman for Sixty Group, with headquarters in Chieti,
store before year’s end and is eyeing Fifth Avenue ers. The tightly edited selection of handbags and about 60 miles from L ’Aquila, said the staff, including co-founders
and Madison Avenue. A unit at the Aventura Mall shoes includes lizard boots, $800; clutches, $600, Renato Rossi and Wichy Hassan, was in “shock.” The company
in Miami is scheduled to bow in 2010. and lizard belts with horn buckles, $340 to $380. didn’t suffer any damage.
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REAL ESTATE PATTERNS, SAMPLES,
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Vertical sweater co. seeks sales pro for
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