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					                         Marcello
                         Mastroianni
                               No matter how
                               many times he
                         played the antihero,
                         Marcello Mastroianni
                         never could shake free
                         of the “Latin lover” tag;
                         the guy was helplessly
                         cool. As Marcello in La
                         Dolce Vita, he’s needy,
                         indecisive and sexually
                         confused, but it’s
                         Mastroianni—the man,
                         not the character—who
                         wears the hell out of
                         that slim black suit
                         and makes you forget
                         the surgeon general’s
                         warning every time
                         he takes a narrow-
                         eyed drag from his
                         cigarette. Offscreen
                         Mastroianni’s taste in
                         clothes was classic
           icons         and conservative.
                         Every year he ordered
          of cool        a dozen suits—in
                         English materials
                         only—from his Roman
                         tailor, Vittorio Zenobi,
                         and his first stop in
                         Paris was always John
                         Lobb, the venerable
                         English bootery. “The
                         day when everyone
                         is very, very elegant,”
                         Mastroianni told GQ
                         in 1964, “I will start to
                         go around dressed like
                         a tramp.” He lived


Most Stylish Men         thirty-two more years—
                         never happened.



   Past 50 Years and
 of the
                         A white French-
                         cuFF shirt mAkes
                         the gentlemAn. But

What You Can Learn       be sure to keep the
                         cu≠ links simple—
                         the boldness of the

   From Them             cu≠s makes enough
                         of a statement.

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            GQ.c O m
            O c t. 0 7
steve
Mcqueen
      In 1974, Frank
      Sinatra, Sammy
Davis Jr., and Liza
Minnelli asked Steve
McQueen to attend
a fund-raiser for an
actor named James
Stacy, who had lost
an arm and a leg in a
motorcycle accident.
It was a black-tie
affair, and all of the
biggest names in
show business—Clint
Eastwood, Burt
Reynolds, John
Lennon—were in
attendance. McQueen
showed up in a plaid
Benetton lumberjack
shirt, blue jeans,
boots, and a long
beard. It was vintage
McQueen. The star of
The Great Escape and
Bullitt achieved icon
status because of the
girls, the cars, and the
tough-guy persona.
But writer James
Wolcott’s description
of McQueen as a “surf
bum–hippie” is most
fitting. McQueen was
at his best when he
looked like he’d just
washed up on the
beach. His rugged,
dressed-down
style—dungarees,
V-neck T-shirts,
wrinkled oxford
shirts—perfectly
complemented his
dusty blond hair,
china blue eyes,
and hard, almost
weathered features.

the simpler the
better. You don’t
need bold patterns
or loud colors
to make a style
statement. A perfect-
fitting T-shirt and a
great pair of black
wraparound shades
will do just fine.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          David
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Bailey
O P E N I N G PAG E : B E R T S T E R N / S TA L E Y-W I S E G A L L E R Y. O P P O S I T E PAG E : © P H OTO S H OT. T H I S PAG E , C LO C K W I S E F R O M TO P L E F T: T E R R Y O ’ N E I L L / H U LTO N A R C H I V E /G E T T Y I M AG E S ; M I C H A E L O C H S A R C H I V E S /G E T T Y




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                In 1962, David
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Bailey was a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          24-year-old British
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          photographer
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          embarking on his first
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          foreign assignment, a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          New York shoot with
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          his then girlfriend,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          model Jean Shrimpton.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          He received some
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          instructions:
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          “Remember, you will
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          be representing Vogue,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          so do not wear your
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          black leather jacket in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          the St. Regis Hotel.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Nice try. Shrimpton
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          remembers that “when


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   DaviD
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          we arrived at the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          airport, we were both
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          dressed completely
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          in leather.” Hardly
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          surprising, considering
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          they were the tremors
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Bowie
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          causing Swinging                                                               From the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          London’s fashion and                                                           Kabuki-inspired
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          music youthquake.                                                        androgyny of Ziggy
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          In fact, Antonioni                                                       Stardust to the crisply
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          used Bailey as his                                                       tailored modern rock
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          inspiration for the lead                                                 star as one-man
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          fashion-photographer                                                     corporation, David
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          character in his                                                         Bowie’s ever shifting
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          legendary document                                                       personae influenced
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          of the period, Blowup.                                                   entire musical genres,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Bailey penetrated the                                                    not to mention wildly
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          world of high fashion                                                    successful reinvention
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          with a combination of                                                    experts like Madonna.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          balls and fearless style:                                                And even when his
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          fur-lined coats, tight                                                   performance-art
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          trousers, and perfectly                                                  motifs have threatened
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          tailored suits. Iconic                                                   to overshadow his
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          as Bailey’s photos                                                       talents as a musician,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          became, it was usually                                                   Bowie has always
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          the man behind the                                                       rebounded in song,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          camera who was the                                                       never succumbing to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          most striking subject in                                                 style over substance.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          the room.                                                                Perhaps Moby said
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   it best in 2005: “I
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          the white tAnk-top                                                       can’t think of any
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          t-shirt will never                                                       other musician in the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          lose its cool.                                                           twentieth century who
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Every man goes                                                           has impacted popular
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          through his phase of                                                     culture and music more
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          wearing one.                                                             than David Bowie.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   And did we mention
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   he’s been married to a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   supermodel for fifteen
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   years? Just wanted to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   throw that in.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          George Best                                                              the skinnier the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   tie, the louder
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Before Becks there was Best. The dark-haired boy wonder             the (style)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               from Belfast hijacked English football when he debuted for          perFormAnce. And
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Manchester United in 1963, becoming a soccer sensation, celebrity,       isn’t it funny how
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          and sex symbol in short order. Whether it was his Beatles-inspired       what looked sharp
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          haircut, slim suits, or Chelsea boots, his style reflected and defined     forty years ago still
I M AG E S ; 1 9 7 0 © S U S / R E T N A LT D .




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          the times. He always kept current, from the crisp lines of mod to the    looks sharp today?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          rococo collars and peak lapels of ’70s London. Bestie inspired the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          1966 Kinks classic “Dedicated Follower of Fashion,” and as his legend
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          grew, his life came to revolve less around the pitch than discotheques
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          and parties. “I spent a lot of money on booze, birds, and fast cars,”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Best once said. “The rest I just squandered.”

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          women love A torso-hugging vest. Buy one on its own, or pick up a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          three-piece suit and do≠ the jacket.


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 * 359 *
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 GQ.c O m
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BoB Dylan
     Remember               fashions of the times.    jet-black shades:        trying to figure out
                                                                                                                                              PHOTO CREDIT FOR MINOR CREDITS AND STYLING




     young Guthrie-         “He’s a rotating type,”   “You buy them o≠ the     who he was.” He was
ite Dylan, the one          says documentarian        rack, if they fit, and    all those things, and
with the beatnik blue       D. A. Pennebaker,         you put them on.”        none of them.
jeans, denim shirt,         who made 1967’s           The point is, Dylan’s
and corduroy driving        Don’t Look Back. “It      ever changing style      rAy-bAn wAyFArers
hat? Or how about           never works to try        was one of discovery.    will AlwAys be in
the powder-faced            to pin him down.”         “There was an air of     style. The look
imp headlining The          There was also Biker      expectancy. He was       worked for Dylan
Last Waltz under            Bob (see Highway          there to find out what    and Ali, it worked
a floppy pimp lid?           61 Revisited), who        was going on. And        for Cruise, and it’s
Through the decades,        said, “I’ve had black     his choice of clothes    working now for
Bob Dylan has always        leather jackets since     relates to that,” says   every band on the
tapped into the             I was 5 years old.”       Pennebaker. “He was      planet and every
                            And then there was                                 fashion-minded
                            his other favorite                                 guy in town.
                            accoutrement—those


3 6 0.G Q.c O m .O ct.0 7                                                                              ( Photographs by PHOtOGRAPHER NAmE )
O P P O S I T E PAG E : H D/C A M E R A P R E S S / R E T N A LT D . T H I S PAG E , C LO C K W I S E F R O M TO P L E F T: B I R D S O F PA R A D I S E © L I Z Z I E H I M M E L ; A P P H OTO/A N TO N I O C A L A N N I ; A L F R E D W E R T H E I M E R / P H OTO K U N S T




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   GeorGe
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Clooney
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          You’ve heard it
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          all before, right?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   George Clooney is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   smart, handsome,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   funny. Oh, and he
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   makes a suit look
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   “simply fantastic.” (We
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   didn’t say it; Giorgio
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Armani did.) But the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   wisecracking rogue

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    BASQUIAt
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   that women (and men)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   love to love traveled
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   a long road to get
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          “You know how       downtown New York          like Rei Kawakubo, the     a Yoruban king would      trAditionAl          here. Let’s not forget
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Thelonious Monk     painter Jean-Michel        founder of Comme des       wear and what you         clothes don’t hAve   that before interning
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    used to make all the      Basquiat. “He had a        Garçons. Yet even as       might find at Givenchy.   to be trAditionAl.   at ER, he played the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    picture frames on         great eye, so he would     an art star, Basquiat      Jean-Michel had a         When you’ve got      floppy-haired Booker
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    his wall crooked?         find quirky things.”       kept his eccentricities    regal air about him—he    dreads and plenty    on Roseanne and paid
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Basquiat was like         Basquiat soon went         intact. “He’d buy an       could put on anything     of attitude, that    the bills as a handyman
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    that—deliberately         from picking through       Armani suit and then       and look good because     striped tie and      on The Facts of Life.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    asymmetrical,” says       bins at vintage shops      go paint in it,” O’Brien   his style came from       toggle coat become   It’s all a testament to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    GQ’s Style Guy,           to walking the runway      says. “Or he’d dress       within. To me, he was     downtown cool        that old saw about men
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Glenn O’Brien, of         for designer friends       like an African prince—    always a prince.”         instead of East      getting better looking
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    his late friend, the                                 a cross between what                                 Coast prep school.   (and just plain better)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   with age. Which is why
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   these days Clooney not
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   only writes, directs,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   produces, and actually
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   acts (hello, Oscar!) but
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   also carries a dark suit
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   and a head of silver-

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Elvis Presley                                                                                                                  flecked hair better than
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   anyone. But we don’t
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   dare call him a fashion
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Elvis may have been more about bling and booze in                                                                        plate. His pal Armani
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          his later years, but early on—according to Bernard                                                                       knows better: “He
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Lansky, self-proclaimed clothier to the King—his style was                                                                     wears the clothes; they
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    always “clean as Ajax.” A hard thing to pull o≠ as a muddy                                                                     don’t wear him.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Mississippi white boy who popularized a defiantly black
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    way of dressing—pegged pants, hi-boy collars, immaculate                                                                       go grAy. Just be
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    hair, and the plaid jacket that Lansky tailored for Elvis’s                                                                    sure to keep your
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    star-turning appearance on The Ed Sullivan Show. The                                                                           hair on the trim
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    King set the sartorial tone for Jerry Lee Lewis and a host                                                                     side and dress like
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    of other Memphis rock ’n’ roll legends, all of whom made                                                                       a gentleman—not a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Lansky’s men’s shop the place to go if you were an up-and-                                                                     frat boy. You’re no
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    coming musician. And though he may have gone Vegas in                                                                          longer in college.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    later years, Elvis ultimately returned to his roots. “I picked
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    the white linen suit, blue shirt, and white tie he was buried
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    in,” says Lansky, one of the honorary pallbearers at Presley’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    funeral. “It was sharp.”

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    A knit tie will never go out oF style. The Beatles wore
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    them when they got o≠ the plane at JFK (black ones, with
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    square-cut bottoms), and you can still buy any number
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    of versions today.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   * 3 61 *
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                                                                                                                       yves
                                                                                                                       saint-
                                                                                                                       laurent
                                                                                                                             In 1954, a wool-
                                                                                                                             trade group held
                                                                                                                       its design contest in
                                                                                                                       Paris—a sort of Project
                                                                                                                       Runway for the ’50s—
                                                                                                                       and the winner of the
                                                                                                                       dress category was a
                                                                                                                       shy, gangly 18-year-old
                                                                                                                       from Algeria. He was tall
                                                                                                                       and slim, almost hiding




                                                                                                                                                   C LO C K W I S E F R O M TO P L E F T: P R E S S E N S B I L D/ I P O L /G LO B E P H OTO S ; © TO P H A M / T H E I M AG E W O R K S ; © E V E A R N O L D/ M AG N U M P H OTO S
                                                                                                                       behind his creation

             Björn Borg
                                                                                                                       in a skinny suit and
                                                                                                                       wire-framed glasses.
                                                                                                                       But the competition’s
                   Few have             approach to the game       intentional or not,      shouldn’t it be when       prestige helped get him
                   dominated their      seem relentless and        Borg came to typify,     you’re young, gifted,      a job at Christian Dior,
             sport like Björn Borg      fierce. This is the man    almost to the point of   and living the high life   and that was all Yves
             did. The slender Swede     who made tracksuits        caricature—thank you,    in Monte Carlo?            Mathieu-Saint-Laurent
             chalked up eleven          cool and put Fila on the   Luke Wilson, in The                                 needed. In three years,
             grand-slam titles from     map. “I never thought      Royal Tenenbaums —       long hAir works            Monsieur Dior, France’s
             ’74 to ’81, grinding his   of myself as a style       the at once worldly      best when it’s             most cherished
             victims down with his      icon,” Borg has said,      and laid-back ethos      loose And eAsy.            designer, was dead at
             legendary stamina,         “though I can see that     of an era. He made       You don’t want a           the age of 52, and Saint-
             making what was            the way I dressed and      luxe look comfortable    coif or a do—you           Laurent, at just 21 years
             actually a methodical      how people looked          and easy. And why        are not a member of        old, took the reins. He
                                        at me created that.”                                Poison or Warrant.         found some aggressive
                                        And whether it was                                                             horn-rimmed glasses
                                                                                                                       and, after his first
                                                                                                                       collection, was hailed
                                                                                                                       by the French press
                                                                                                                       as the savior of haute
                                                                                                                       couture. Saint-Laurent
                                                                                                                       ultimately asserted

             Malcolm X                                                                                                 himself as his own
                                                                                                                       brand. He loosened
                                                                                                                       his collar, relaxing into
                  After six years in prison, Malcolm X                                                                 hashish and caftans
                  emerged a completely changed man—not                                                                 in Marrakech, and by
             least in the way he dressed. Whereas he once                                                              1971, in ads for his
             ran the streets in a brightly colored zoot                                                                men’s cologne, he even
             suits—the hustler’s uniform—he now wore                                                                   posed nude. His hair
             sober, monochromatic suits with narrow lapels                                                             had grown out, but
             and skinny ties, often topped o≠ by stingy-                                                               he looked right into
             brimmed fedoras. “As a minister in the Nation                                                             the camera, wearing
             of Islam, you had to present yourself in a certain                                                        nothing but those
             way,” says Ruth E. Carter, the costume designer                                                           signature glasses.
             on Spike Lee’s 1992 bio-pic. For Carter, who
             tracked down the artisan who made his star-                                                               Find A signAture
             and-crescent ring (“He wanted to show people                                                              item And stick with
             he was pure in his faith,” she says), Malcolm X’s                                                         it. Saint-Laurent
             style was consistent and transparent, a window                                                            wore a version
             into the substance of his character and message.                                                          of these bold
             “He believed that if you present yourself with                                                            glasses throughout
             respect, then people will respect you—and that’s                                                          his career.
             what he did. He gained the respect of millions.”

             A short-brimmed FedorA is heroic And hip.
             And you might have noticed, they’re also back
             in style—whether in wool ( for the winter) or
             straw ( for the summer).
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GQ.c O m
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                                                                             Beck
                                                                                   Most of us met
                                                                                   Beck shortly
                                                                             after the 23-year-old
                                                                             used an eight-track


                                                   riCharD
                                                                             recorder, a drumbeat,
                                                                             and a slide guitar to lay
                                                                             down a Billboard Top

                                                   aveDon
                                                                             10 hit and generational
                                                                             anthem called “Loser.”
                                                                             Then he couldn’t
                                                        When he died         get away from the
                                                        at 81, while on      song fast enough,
                                                   assignment in 2004,       declining to play it
                                                   Richard Avedon            live and fleeing back
                                                   was as famous and         to the studio. When
                                                   beautiful as any of his   he resurfaced with
                                                   photographs. “You’ve      Odelay, which went
                                                   got to ask yourself,      platinum, he cemented
                                                   How could one man         his reputation as a
                                                   be the author of so       Dylan of our time and
                                                   many of the iconic        reminded us that the
                                                   images of the twentieth   only constant with
                                                   century?” says David      Beck is change. The
                                                   Remnick, editor of The    same goes for the
                                                   New Yorker, where         man’s style. “It’s kind
                                                   the photographer          of derelict,” he once
                                                   worked for nearly sixty   told GQ. “But I embrace
                                                   years. “We remember       it.” Whether he’s at a
                                                   his Marilyn, his Ezra     thrift shop in Paris or a

Bryan ferry                                        Pound, his Bert
                                                   Lahr, his practically
                                                   everyone.… Avedon’s
                                                                             design studio in Japan
                                                                             (the fashion of the two
                                                                             places, like the Dior
     “Other bands wanted to wreck hotel            enthusiasm was            suits he wears, best fit




                                                                                                         C LO C K W I S E F R O M TO P L E F T: © M I C K R O C K ; © T I M AU G E R / R E T N A LT D ;
     rooms,” Bryan Ferry once commented.           so winning and so         his slim frame), Beck
“Roxy Music wanted to redecorate them.” As         seductive that he         balances the cool with
the swooningly handsome frontman of that           got people to do          the fun, with a nod to
groundbreaking art-rock band, Ferry exerted        everything.” Avedon       the old while creating
no small influence on his fellow Brits (among       was a nearsighted         the new.
them David Bowie). His solo career upped           high school dropout
the ante, with each record cover seeming to        from the Bronx whose      A suit is AlwAys
announce an iconic—and trendsetting—new            crew cut soon grew        AppropriAte—
persona: the elegant, white-tuxedo-jacketed        into a smooth, silvery    especiAlly when
crooner of 1973’s Another Time, Another Place;     mane and whose black      worn out oF the
the floppy-haired, St-Tropez-lounging rogue         frames became a           oFFice. And so what
of ’74’s Let’s Stick Together (Duran Duran took    trademark, protecting     if you’ve got long
notes); and the leather-blazer-and-skinny-tie      the ever peering          hair? The contrast
hipster on ’78’s The Bride Stripped Bare (ditto    eyes that never lost      makes that much
for Franz Ferdinand). Ferry’s suave elegance       contact with their        more of a statement.
hasn’t diminished as he’s transitioned to tweedy   subject—he stood left
country gentleman. And of course, he’s still the   of his camera, never
ultimate ladies’ man, dating a woman more          behind it. “And if he
                                                                                                         © 2007 LAURA WILSON




than thirty years his junior. His advice on how    ever blinked,” adds
to charm the fairer sex? “Obviously, play my       Remnick, “I missed it.”
records for them,” he says, laughing. “That
would be a very good start. And lots of money.”    A sAFAri shirt
                                                   works As well in
dress seAsonAlly. In the summertime, shift         the city As it does in
to lighter weight—and lighter color—suits.         the Field. It’s rugged
Think cotton, not wool.                            but elegant.
                                                     MuhaMMad ali
                                                          It’s no accident    or high-fiving his        The dark suits, white
                                                          that in 1997,
                                                     Christie’s sold a robe
                                                                              way through the
                                                                              streets of Zaire—and
                                                                                                        shir ts, narrow ties,
                                                                                                        and buffed shoes
                                                                                                                                 tom BraDy
FROM TOP: © THOMAS HOEPKER/MAGNUM PHOTOS; INFPHOTO




                                                     of Muhammad Ali’s        he always looked          gave him a look
                                                     for $156,500. The        far bet ter doing         that traced back              After thirty years on earth and seven
                                                     three-time world         so than anyone            to his roots as a             seasons as quarterback of the New
                                                     heav yweight champ       in his swarming           churchgoing boy in       England Patriots, here is what Tom Brady has
                                                     displayed the same       entourage. Although       Louisville. “I don’t     shown us he can do: Win. Handle pressure.
                                                     greatness stepping       flamboyantly              follow fashion so        Take a hit. Lead a team. Call the shots.
                                                     onto the canvas          charismatic in and        much as I tr y to find   Command respect. Show respect. Get the girl.
                                                     as he did rhyming        out of the ring, Ali      clothes that make me     Look good on the red carpet. Look even better
                                                     his way through a        favored a more            look good,” Ali told     on the green. Sign a big contract. Turn down
                                                     press conference         classic wardrobe.         GQ recently.             a bigger one. Drop back. Go deep. Dress well.
                                                                                                                                 Live well. Give back. Look ahead. Come from
                                                     weAr A slim dArk suit, white shirt, And dArk tie, And you’ll look like A    behind. Scramble. Stay loose. Have fun. Give
                                                     chAmp. That’s really all you need to know. It’s that simple.                credit where credit is due. Play the game. Go to
                                                                                                                                 Disney World. Learn from his mistakes. Accept
                                                                                                                                 defeat. Inspire confidence. Grace the cover
                                                                                                                                 of GQ. Host Saturday Night Live. Laugh at
                                                                                                                                 himself. Get a laugh. Dance. Sing. Well, no, he
                                                                                                                                 can’t sing. But they say John Kennedy couldn’t
                                                                                                                                 carry a tune, either.

                                                                                                                                 iF you wAnt to be tAken seriously, pAy As
                                                                                                                                 much Attention to your hAir As your suit.
                                                                                                                                 You’re going to be judged from head to toe.
                                                                                 T H I S PAG E , F R O M TO P : © 1 97 8 S A N F O R D R OT H /A M PA S / M P T V; Y U L S M A N /G LO B E P H OTO S .
                                                                                 OPPOSITE PAGE: HERB RIT TS/LIME FOTO.
Paul newman
     During the 1950s and ’60s, the early years of a career that spanned
     more than half a century, Paul Newman did his best on-screen work in
a tight undershirt and slacks. This ensemble, which was often accessorized
by a cigarette and a glass of bourbon (preferably J.T.S. Brown, neat),
was tailor-made for the collection of misfits, hustlers, and broken-down
drunks that Newman immortalized. O≠screen, Newman was thoughtful,
dignified, decent—a family man. He may have represented the ideal of
what a man should look like in a tuxedo, but he was at his best in a V-neck
sweater or an oxford cloth button-down shirt and plain-front trousers.
According to Newman’s publicist and friend of more than fifty years,
Warren Cowan, “After Paul won the Jean Hersholt Humanitarian Award
in 1993, he had a bonfire with his tuxedo because he said he never wanted
to wear a black tie again. Shortly after, he gave away his entire wardrobe.
He’s down to just a few pairs of slacks and cords, a few shirts and sweaters.
He says his life is much simpler. He’s much happier.”

go buy A white oxFord cloth button-down-collAr dress shirt. now.
You can wear one with a suit or a blazer, or with jeans, cords, or khakis.




Jack Kerouac                                                                     PHOTO CREDIT FOR MINOR CREDITS AND STYLING
                                                                                 PHOTO CREDIT FOR MINOR CREDITS AND STYLING




     Flower power          And yet his aesthetic      paying unwitting
     was all well and      is everywhere today:       tribute to the man who
good, but Jack Kerouac     That Brooklyn hipster      exploded the 1950s
often wondered             rocking overalls           world of straight-white
aloud how the Beats        under his Carhartt         pretensions, rejecting
could’ve given birth       jacket while reading       the notion that class
to such Technicolor        Hart Crane? That           was synonymous
bravura. Kerouac’s         kid in San Francisco       with value. An uneven
look was broken but        sporting scuffed           artist perhaps, and
unbowed—as he once         oxfords and a frayed       a troubled one to be
said: “ragged, beatific,   collar, with Madame        sure, but unequivocally
beautiful in an ugly       Bovary stuffed in his      a man: the originator of
graceful new way.”         back pocket? They’re       blue-collar cool.

personAl style isn’t About buying the trendiest lAbels or most
expensive suits. It’s about establishing a look that’s all yours and
sticking with it.
johnny
Depp
       After almost a
       quarter century
in front of the camera,
Johnny Depp has
shown us everything
but himself. Not an
easy task when you’ve
got those cheekbones,
that tousled hair,
and an unmitigated
youthfulness, which
Depp has worked hard
to cloak by playing
reclusive savants and
rock ’n’ roll pirates. But
we keep searching,
trying to nail down
his hobo chic—a style
that derives from
a life spent kicking
around the dusty
South and the French
countryside. “I don’t
think he’s remotely
interested in fashion.
He’s a complete
instigator of fashion,”
says Penny Rose,
the costume designer
who collaborated
with the actor to
create Pirates of the
Caribbean’ s randy Jack
Sparrow. “His look is
always eye-stopping,
clever, and completely
individual.” Or, like
the last two drags on
one of his hand-rolled
cigarettes, raw
and unapologetically
gratifying.

A tweAk here And
there cAn elevAte
even the simplest
outFits. Notice the
rolled-up sleeves,
the neckpiece,
the beat-up boots
instead of sneakers.
Small moves like
these separate you
from the pack.
                             * 3 67 *
                             GQ.c O m
                             O c t. 0 7
Samuel Beckett
     Any writer who denies fantasizing about




                                                                                                                                                                C LO C K W I S E F R O M TO P L E F T: U L L S T E I N B I L D/ T H E G R A N G E R C O L L E C T I O N , N Y; © K I N G C O L L E C T I O N / R E T N A LT D ; I P O L /G LO B E P H OTO S
     being Samuel Beckett is either lying or not
a writer. To roam the Paris streets as an expat, to
join the French Resistance, to meet fans in the
co≠ee shop of the Hotel PLM St. Jacques—and
that’s just the man himself. His work, more
worshipped than appraised, strips characters of
everything from plots to scenery, leaving them
to face the nothingness from where they came.
Beckett himself looked like something from
the void. A timeless figure, both ancient and
modern, traditional and (whether he liked it
or not) hip, he favored black (which ignited his
blue eyes) and wool or tweed coats that could
have come from any number of centuries.
                                                      david hockney
                                                           The British          sense is gemütlich,”      Weschler). He has            wears different-color
A blAck turtleneck perFectly FrAmes your                   artist David         says the writer           also favored brashly         socks,” says Weschler.
FAce. It makes you look strong. Just don’t            Hockney—master of         Lawrence Weschler.        striped rugby jerseys        “It’s such a fantastic
wear one that’s too tight or too high.                one-point perspective     On occasion, Hockney,     and ties, aviator or         innovation. Why on
                                                      and portraiture,          now 70, has appeared      Coke-bottle specs,           earth do we wear
                                                      the Polaroid collage      in a gray flannel         and suspenders as            same-color socks?
                                                      and the California        Savile Row suit. But      thick as a firefighter’s.    The amount of time we
                                                      swimming pool—has         more frequently, he’s     What the curator             spend matching them,
                                                      spent a lifetime          made the rounds in        Henry Geldzahler             it’s absurd!”
                                                      dressing more for         workman’s pants that      called the artist’s
                                                      comfort than for          reflect his painterly     “primitive craving for       A rugby shirt
                                                      effect, with a mind       ethics (“He’s one of      brightness” manifests        is Forever.
                                                      more for color than       the hardest-working       itself right down to         Literally—just try
                                                      for trend. “His fashion   artists I know,” says     Hockney’s toes. “He          wearing one out.




                                                      Gianni aGnelli
                                                            It’s unclear        mundane as hitching       the King, was more           iF you cAn AFFord A
                                                            whether Gianni      up a sleeve to check      appropriate. Fiat alone      high-grAde custom-
                                                      Agnelli’s habit of        the time. That the late   once accounted for 5         mAde suit, buy
                                                      famously sporting         Fiat chairman wore        percent of Italy’s GDP,      one. It will forever
                                                      his Cartier watch on      his ties similarly, in    and Agnelli lived as if it   change the way
                                                      the outside of his cuff   full view on top of       were more. He made           you think about
                                                      was due to a metal        vests and sweaters,       presidents jealous.          getting dressed in
                                                      allergy or to shirts so   suggests a peacock        While sailing with him in    the morning. The
                                                      precisely tailored they   flash at odds with his    1962, Jackie Kennedy         perfectly contoured
                                                      wouldn’t allow room       flatteringly modest       received a telegram          lines, increased
                                                      for a watchband—or to     nickname, l’Avvocato      from her husband:            comfort factor, and
                                                      a tycoon’s impatience     (the Lawyer). Maybe       “More Caroline ,” it         inarguable elegance
                                                      with something so         his other nickname,       read, “less Agnelli .”       are addictive.


3 6 8.G Q.c O m .O ct.0 7
                                                                  miles Davis
                                                                        For decades,         believed that the notes       that were cut in one
                                                                        trumpet player       you don’t play are            piece, with only two
                                                                  Miles Davis was            as important as the           seams—under the
                                                                  the living definition      ones you do. It was           sleeves and down the
                                                                  of cool. “Miles was        an ethos that carried         jacket sides—no chest
                                                                  regal,” says legendary     over to the clothes           pocket or padding in
                                                                  saxophonist Sonny          he wore. Up until the         the shoulders, and
                                                                  Rollins. “The music, the   late 1960s, when he           notch lapels that
                                                                  clothes, the hair, the     started merging jazz          rolled down to a single
                                                                  physique. He was the       with rock ’n’ roll, Miles     button. Davis best
                                                                  complete package.”         favored three-piece           described his style
                                                                  Davis’s music and          suits by Brooks               in his autobiography,
                                                                  sartorial choices were     Brothers and worked           Miles, when he said,
                                                                  outward expressions        with a New York City          “I was clean as a
                                                                  of the inner man. He       tailor to create a style      motherfucker.”
                                                                                             all his own: jackets

                                                                  every mAn should own At leAst one pAir oF greAt khAkis.
                                                                  And by “great,” we mean slim-cut and flat-front.




                                                                                                            Hubert de
                                                                                                            Givenchy
                                                                                                                  Fashion designer
                                                                                                                  Hubert de
                                                                                                            Givenchy first made his
                                                                                                            name turning out brisk,
                                                                                                            modern collections.
                                                                                                            But he did it, as he
                                                                                                            once said, with the
                                                                                                            soul of a classicist.
                                                                                                            At six feet six,
                                                                                                            impeccably mannered
                                                                                                            and militantly self-
                                                                                                            disciplined, Givenchy
                                                                                                            christened the notion
                                                                                                            of the fashion uniform:
                                                                                                            He would wear his
                                                                                                            signature white linen
                                                                                                            work smock over his
                                                                                                            dark suits with an ever
                                                                                                            present gold pinkie

                                                                  Kurt cobain                               ring. According to his
                                                                                                            muse Bettina Graziani,
                                                                                                            he was “very chic but                    tK SUBHED:
                                                                       A man of chronic                     didn’t like to show off.”
FROM TOP: VERN SMITH/EVERETT COLLECTION; JUERGEN TELLER/LEHMANN




                                                                       contradictions, Kurt
                                                                  Cobain exuded an energy that
                                                                                                            Longtime confidante
                                                                                                            Audrey Hepburn,                          first lastnaMe
                                                                  was both savage and artistic.             who faithfully wore                               Exeraessi et luptat. Ing eum ilit praesto consed
                                                                  When Nirvana readied to play              Givenchy’s clothes in                             te verosto od molor aliquamcorem velessisl esto
                                                                  Saturday Night Live on January            films like Breakfast                     dolore commodolore modigniat, vullandit eum quis
                                                                  11, 1992, Nevermind had reached           at Tiffany’s, used to                    dunt lor susciliquate veliquat, se tisit aciliquis augait
                                                                  Billboard’s number one spot,              phone the designer just                  veril exeril erilit do consequat do conse tatum et, sed
                                                                  and the music world waited to             to tell him she loved                    tion henim ing eniscincip eummodi onsectem zzrit lore
                                                                  meet its new 24-year-old star. He         him. Now 80 years old,                   vel do commodit acilla faccumsan utem quam do et
                                                                  wore a Flipper T-shirt under a            Givenchy has softened                    nonsequi ex ex eugait lum zzriure modiat. Os augait
                                                                  mold-colored cardigan and hair            his outlook a bit. “As                   ut wis do dolendreet vero ex enibh essit utpat alis
                                                                  he’d dyed the night before with           you get older, clothes                   nonsequisi ex estrud tet adipit lut wis et lut alit nim
                                                                  strawberry Kool-Aid. He also blew         don’t have the same                      dolorpe rcipsustrud tem vel ut utpat etuerci duipit
                                                                  the shit out of the room with a           importance. You see                      lutem quisit lore dit dion henim nos aut irit lobore tie et
M AU P I N G A L L E RY, N Y; S YG M A /C O R B I S




                                                                  1965 Fender Jaguar the color of           things differently,”                     nisim quam doloreet alis nulla aliquat. Ed tet aut accum
                                                                  a Doberman and introduced us              he admits, before                        iliscil iril ullam, sequis alit accum ex exerostrud (125)
                                                                  to a new status quo for cultural          adding that “the most
                                                                  icons. Glamorous, dirty, quiet, and       comfortable thing is a                   tHE tIP: Odio dit essecte magna feuguer si essim
                                                                  loud—Cobain would be dead in              pair of jeans and a                      vel dolortis nim venis aliquam, susto duis aut
                                                                  two years. And we’re still trying to      T-shirt.” Doesn’t get any                aliquismod et, veliquissit, con eu faccum ing eummy
                                                                  figure him out.                            more classic than that.                  nim venis aliquam, susto duiscte magna feuguer si
                                                                                                                                                     essim vel (33)
                                                                  beAt-up jeAns Are AmericA’s               underdressing is
                                                                  giFt to the world oF style. Not           the only sin.
                                                                  that we’re saying wear torn-and-          You should never
                                                                  frayed denim to the o∞ce, but it’s        be afraid to be
                                                                  hard to go wrong wearing it when          the best-dressed
                                                                  you’re o≠ the clock.                      man in the room.


                                                                                                                                                                                      O ct.0 7.G Q.c O m .3 6 9
Jean-Paul
Belmondo
      Of all the elements
      that make up
Jean-Paul Belmondo’s
inimitable style, clothes
are perhaps the
least important; with
his cocky walk and
bruising good looks,
he could’ve made a
powder blue tux cool.
The Frenchman saw no
contradiction between
his fondness for fat,
unfiltered Gauloise
cigarettes and being
sportif: He was an
amateur welterweight
boxer, a goalie for the


                                                                arnolD
soccer team he co-
owned; once he even
scaled all twenty-six
stories of a Hong Kong
Hilton—for kicks. When
Belmondo brought this
                                                                palmer
intense physicality and                                                In the early 1960s,
easy, unforced beauty                                                  Arnold Palmer was
to the screen, the                                              more than a golfer: He
effect was startling.                                           was a superstar—the
With his breakout role                                          Elvis Presley of sports.
as the Bogart-and-                                              With his horde of fans
jazz-loving outlaw                                              (Arnie’s Army) and his
Michel in Godard’s                                              pomaded pompadour,
Breathless, Belmondo                                            Palmer brought golf to
fundamentally altered                                           the masses. He could




                                                                                             C LO C K W I S E F R O M TO P L E F T: B E N A I N O U S - M A R C H E T T I /G A M M A / E Y E D E A ; J A M E S D R A K E / S P O R T S I L L U S T R AT E D ; G LO B E P H OTO S .
film audiences’                                                 dress, too, favoring
expectations of how                                             flat-front gabardine
a male lead should                                              pants with a heavy
look and act. He was                                            crease and wool
slangy, irreverent, and                                         cardigans. And those
utterly modern—the                                              fitted golf shirts: “There
perfect embodiment of                                           was some talk that
the iconoclastic French                                         maybe my muscles
New Wave spirit. And                                            were too big for the
he looked pretty good                                           shirts,” Palmer admits
in a suit, too.                                                 today. But sportswriter
                                                                Frank Deford has
the driving shoe                                                testified that Palmer’s
is AlwAys chic.                                                 cool came from those
Nothing transports                                              L&M’s: “All America had
you to the                                                      this image of Palmer
Côte d’Azur                                                     taking a cigarette out
more quickly.                                                   of his mouth, throwing
                                                                it on the green to putt,




                                                                                             O P P O S I T E PAG E : T H E J O H N F. K E N N E DY P R E S I D E N T I A L L I B R A RY, B O S TO N .
                                                                and then sticking it
                                                                back in his mouth. It
                                                                was golf’s equivalent
                                                                of Bogart and Bacall.
                                                                It’s odd to think of a

Peter o’Toole                                                   cigarette as an athletic
                                                                totem, but back then it
                                                                was sexy. Palmer with a
     If the Academy gave out Oscars for personal style,         cigarette was like those
     Peter Seamus O’Toole would surely have snared one          old convertible ads
for his first major picture, a little project called Lawrence    with a beautiful woman
of Arabia. Instead, he’s been nominated—but never               sitting in the front seat
won—eight times for acting performances that have so            and her scarf blowing in
often embodied the roguish gentleman who looks as good          the wind.”
crossing the desert on a camel as he does at high tea in his
Plaza suite, smoking cigarettes through a trademark black       A polo shirt should
holder. Now 75, he is as famous for his languid, elegant ease   be FormFitting.
as for the high-proof hell-raising of his early days. O’Toole   Its sleeves should
embodies an intersection of styles that might be considered     hug your biceps,
contradictory were he not so great. “Booze is an outrageous     and its body should
drug,” he once told an interviewer. “But I don’t regret one     fit snugly around
drop.” And neither do we.                                       your torso.

buy At leAst one reAl blAck bow tie And leArn how to tie
it. There’s no excuse for wearing a clip-on with your tux.



* 3 72 *
GQ.c O m
O c t. 0 7
                                                                                    the Kennedy Brothers
                                                                                         After campaign-     made suits (always        which they wore
                                                                                         ing with Jack       dark, always two-         them, says designer
PHOTO CREDIT FOR MINOR CREDITS AND STYLING




                                                                                    and Bobby Kennedy        button). And sure,        Thom Browne, whose
                                                                                    in 1960, in a move       they had a fondness       modern takes on
                                                                                    to emulate the           for Brooks Brothers       the Kennedy look
                                                                                    president, Lyndon        oxford shirts and         currently outfit the
                                                                                    Johnson ordered six      striped ties, and even    latest generation of
                                                                                    custom suits from        their casualwear was      JFK acolytes. “For
                                                                                    Savile Row tailors       conservative (preppy      the past fifty years,
                                                                                    Carr, Son & Woor.        staples like crewneck     whenever fashion
                                                                                    Typically, LBJ missed    sweaters and cotton       has gotten away from
                                                                                    the point. Yes, the      khakis). But it wasn’t    the Kennedy look,”
                                                                                    Kennedys wore            the clothes that          Browne notes, “it’s
                                                                                    expensive tailor-        made these men.           been a mistake.”
                                                                                                             It was the subtlety
                                                                                                             and simplicity with

                                                                                    tweed jAckets cArry thAt kennedy pedigree, but they look greAt
                                                                                    on everyone. Just pick your favorite one and wear it your way—with
                                                                                    khakis, with jeans, with a polo shirt, with a V-neck sweater…


                                             ( Photographs by PHOtOGRAPHER NAmE )                                                       O ct.0 7.G Q.c O m .3 73
sean connery                                                                                             PHOTO CREDIT FOR MINOR CREDITS AND STYLING




      All the actors       all other Bonds are        became Connery’s            the little things
      who’ve inhabited     measured—the arched        bible. That’s how the       mAke the mAn.
the role of James          eyebrow, the dry           former bricklayer           Notice the cu≠
Bond have enjoyed          wolfish smile. But we at   from a hardscrabble         links and the
the trappings of           GQ think it mostly has     section of Edinburgh        pocket square.
style—killing bad          to do with the way he      learned to walk with        But also notice that
guys in Savile Row         moved. It only looked      (in one observer’s          they’re subdued—
bespoke—but only one       effortless: Before he      memorable phrase) “the      white handkerchief,
of them can truly be       was cast in Dr. No,        threatening grace of a      understated links.
said to have style. (And   Connery was an ardent      panther on the prowl.”      And the suit,
no, we’re not talking      student of the Swedish     Read it as a gloss on his   shirt, and tie are
about George Lazenby.)     movement teacher           penchant for violence       also subtle.
Sean Connery is still      Yat Malmgren, whose        or his sexual prowess:      Look chic, not
the yardstick by which     book on body technique     It works both ways.         like a mobster.


* 3 74 *
GQ.c O m
3 74.G0 7 O m .O ct.0 7
O c t . Q.c
O P P O S I T E PAG E : B O B H A S W E L L / E X P R E S S /G E T T Y I M AG E S . T H I S PAG E , C LO C K W I S E F R O M TO P L E F T: H E R B R I T T S / L I M E F OTO ; © DA N B U D N I K / W O O D F I N C A M P ; W I L L I A M L . H A M I LTO N /C A M E R A P R E S S / R E T N A LT D .




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        sam sheparD
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Even when Sam Shepard is photographed
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             in color—standing next to another actor
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        or maybe his longtime companion, Jessica
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Lange—he looks like a lone figure in one of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        those Walker Evans sepia-tinted photos from
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        the Dust Bowl. With his lank hair, sad eyes,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        rugged denim, and rangy way, he could be a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        cowboy or a grifter or a vet or a trucker, always
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        an archetype of the stoic western male. And
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        he’s made a living not only playing parts like
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Willem de Kooning
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        these on screen and stage but also writing               “De Kooning was      occupation. “He was all    up in Rome during a         stylistic lessons, after
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        them. Shepard is the author of more than forty           like Brando to       about his work,” says      creative lull in the late   all, remain in the paint.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        plays, one of which won a Pulitzer. Many of         some people,” says the    Stevens. “But it would     ’50s to the fedora he
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        them ask what it means to be a western man,         painter’s biographer      be corny to say he was     wore in the ’20s, long      work clothes
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        if he isn’t extinct. “I swallow the smog,” one      Mark Stevens.             oblivious to how he        before his career           Aren’t just For
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        character says in True West. “I watch the news      “A tough, tragic guy;     looked.” With a face       boomed and his hair         construction
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        in color. I shop in the Safeway.… There’s no such   a hard drinker; a         some described as          went white as gesso.        workers. A pair
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        thing as the West anymore! It’s a dead issue!”      gorgeous wreck.”          angelic and a magnetic     “It would be a great        of Ben Davis pants,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            For the seminal           sexuality, the Dutch-      disservice to talk about    a denim barn
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        bet on blAck. A plain black T-shirt ( fitted,        midcentury American       born de Kooning looked     de Kooning in terms of      jacket—they can
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        short in the sleeves, not too long at the waist)    artist, wardrobe was      good in just about         fashion,” says Stevens.     be incorporated
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        gives you a jolt of urban cool, no matter           primarily a function of   everything: from the       His most enduring           into your everyday
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        where you are.                                                                tailored suits he picked                               wardrobe.




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Woody Allen
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Picture a writer     style that current
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             and it’s Woody       tastemakers like
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Allen you’ll see.         Wes Anderson have
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Allen’s low-key tastes    adopted so skillfully.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        have barely changed       Allen proved that
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        over the years. He        you don’t have to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        has mastered an           doll yourself up like
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        unassuming mix of         Cary Grant to be a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        tweed and corduroy,       sex symbol—you just
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        and maybe a slight        have to wear it well.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        variation here and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        there on those horn-       don’t try to be
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        rimmed glasses that        someone you’re not.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        might as well have         Allen has spent a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        been glued to his face     lifetime embracing
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        in the 1970s. Call it      his oddness,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        nerd chic, the slightly    and women have
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        disheveled, East           spent a lifetime
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Coast–intellectual         embracing him.




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              O ct.0 7.G Q.c O m .3 75
                                                                                                                                    anDre
                                                                                                                                    3000
                                                                                                                                          Those of us who
                                                                                                                                          have followed
                                                                                                                                    Andre 3000’s career
                                                                                                                                    (or at least his outfits)
                                                                                                                                    shouldn’t be surprised




                                                                                                                                                                 C LO C K W I S E F R O M TO P L E F T: © B R I G I T T E L AC O M B E ; C H R I S T I N A R A D I S H / R E D F E R N S / M U S I C P I C T U R E S ; E V E N I N G S TA N DA R D/G E T T Y I M AG E S
                                                                                                                                    that his style is as
                                                                                                                                    natural as his musical
                                                                                                                                    talent. “It’s been there

Al Pacino
                                                                                                                                    all along,” says his
                                                                                                                                    OutKast colleague,
                                                                                                                                    Big Boi. “It was just
      Think back to that   New Yorker of the          with these characters    turf,” he told Grobel.      “Pa-CHEE-no!” Thirty     about staying fresh,
      scene in Saturday    1970s—the sideburns,       in the South Bronx. In   “I really love New          years later, the         and it’s still going on to
Night Fever when           the blow-dried hair,       1979 the interviewer     York.… From Battery         mere sound of it still   this day.” Best friends
Travolta looks at the      the leather blazers.       Lawrence Grobel          Park right up to            radiates cool.           since their sophomore
Serpico poster on his      Whether Pacino was         found Pacino living      Harlem.… I still get out                             year of high school,
wall: “Pa-CHEE-no!”        playing a corruption-      in the same shabby       there in the streets.       A blAck leAther          the two met in the
Even if you don’t share    fighting cop or a junkie   three-room apartment     Watch a guy put forty       jAcket is versAtile.     cafeteria one day and
Tony Manero’s ethnic       or a Mob boss, you         he’d occupied for        packs of crackers in        Try one with suit        musically bonded
pride, you recognize       knew he’d grown up         years, surrounded by     his soup.” Hear it again.   pants, or even a         over everything from
the magic in that name.                               dog-eared copies of                                  white dress shirt        N.W.A. to Def Leppard.
Pacino is that gritty                                 Shakespeare. “It’s my                                and a dark slim tie.     At first the duo tore,
                                                                                                                                    dyed, and airbrushed
                                                                                                                                    their clothes to match
                                                                                                                                    each other, but with
                                                                                                                                    the resources that
                                                                                                                                    the success of their
                                                                                                                                    breakthrough album,

Marlon Brando                                                                                                                       ATLiens, brought,
                                                                                                                                    Andre’s wardrobe
                                                                                                                                    grew. And it continues
     Marlon Brando is remembered as a man of the ’50s and ’70s: Before                                                              to grow. From woven
     1960 he played Stanley Kowalski and Terry Malloy, enraptured a                                                                 hats and wraparound
young James Dean (who copied him ever after), and transformed the                                                                   sunglasses to
humble T-shirt from underwear to outerwear; after 1969 he was Kurtz and                                                             lederhosen and polka-
Corleone before retiring into a mysterious Tahitian fatness and becoming                                                            dot bow ties, Andre’s
America’s greatest public enigma. Brando’s ’60s are forgotten. They                                                                 style (like OutKast’s
shouldn’t be; it was then that Brando came into his own as a man. Beatnik                                                           music) challenges the
rebellion gave way to grown-up purposefulness and a more serene, suited                                                             tradition it honors. The
look as Brando took his act o≠screen, involving himself in the Native                                                               range is no surprise,
American and civil rights movements. In this role, Brando achieved a look                                                           considering the boys
of e≠ortless power and bull-like grace. His body, broad and with brooding                                                           first favored Guess?
kinetics, carried a suit like no other man’s.                                                                                       jeans and V-neck
                                                                                                                                    sweaters.
suit your shApe. If you have strong, broad shoulders, you don’t need a
heavily padded suit to accentuate them.                                                                                             Find your inner
                                                                                                                                    dAndy And let him
                                                                                                                                    loose. Getting
                                                                                                                                    dressed should be
                                                                                                                                    fun, not stressful.




* 3 76 *
GQ.c O m
O c t. 0 7
Warren
Beatty
      If Warren Beatty
      wore scuba
flippers instead of
shoes, we might
consider copying. If
he wore garbage bags
instead of oxfords,
we might wake up and
throw them on, too,
because, you know,
Warren did it. But
inevitably we’d balk
because, well, we’re not
Warren Beatty: We don’t
have that once-in-a-
generation leading-
man confidence, that
hyperevolved swagger,

                                                                               miChael
that “Me? Yeah, I
know—I’m great looking”
smile. In a sense, it’s
never really mattered
what Warren Beatty
wore. Warren Beatty,
                                                                               jorDan
shirt unbuttoned to                                                                   If you are over
his navel, silk scarf                                                                 six feet four, are
knotted around his                                                             American looking,
neck, looked…manly.                                                            and like to travel,
Beatty tuxedo-clad?                                                            you’ve heard the name
Downright debonair.                                                            called out in every
And from Splendor in                                                           imaginable accent:




                                                                                                            C LO C K W I S E F R O M TO P L E F T: E V E R E T T C O L L E C T I O N ; © J O H N H U E T; © E B E T R O B E R T S . O P P O S I T E PAG E : T E R R Y O ’ N E I L L /G E T T Y I M AG E S .
the Grass onward,                                                              Mee-kel Hordan! Em-
he’s always looked                                                             hay! Doesn’t matter if
completely nonchalant,                                                         you’re white, fat, and
which isn’t to say he                                                          75. Michael Jordan is
didn’t think about his                                                         still everywhere. Nine
sartorial choices. Of                                                          years after MJ’s final
Beatty, Eva Marie Saint                                                        championship, the
once said, “Some guys                                                          young guns might be
come at you like a Mack                                                        selling more jerseys,
truck. But Warren’s                                                            but they’re not the
slow, smooth, and in                                                           reason shorties in
complete control.” It’s                                                        Dakar are showing up
hard to imagine him                                                            to Sunday practice in
being anything but.                                                            low-riding baggies,
                                                                               sleek black kicks,
A white shirt And                                                              forearm wristbands,
blAck tie Are cAn’t-                                                           and scalp moisturizer.
miss complements                                                               His Airness was an
to A khAki suit.                                                               utterly dominant,
Think of it as the                                                             totally accessible hero,
Reservoir Dogs look,                                                           and with a little help
but for summer.                                                                from his magic smile,
                                                                               Scottie Pippen, and
                                                                               Nike (his ’84 tricolor Air
                                                                               Jordans were so cool
                                                                               the NBA banned them),
                                                                               Jordan spent more
                                                                               than a decade as the

                           the Ramones
                                                                               most famous athlete on
                                                                               earth. Every baller on
                                                                               the planet is on record
                                It’s not just that the Ramones made their      saying he’s always
                                awkward geekiness look cool; it’s when         wanted to be him, and
                           they did it. In April 1976—as the Bee Gees          every one’s still trying.
                           climbed the Billboard charts—Sire Records
                           released Ramones, fourteen fast tracks of three-    A bAld heAd is
                           chord noise carried by the incomparable voice       AlwAys better thAn
                           of Joey Ramone, their gangly, six-foot-three        A bAlding heAd.
                           singer. He stood front and center on the cover in   Jordan taught us
                           what would become punk’s immortal uniform:          this, and everyone
                           filthy Keds, torn jeans, and a black leather biker   from Bruce Willis
                           jacket. Five streets over and fifty-two blocks       to Mark Messier has
                           down from Studio 54, a tiny club called CBGB        proved it so.
                           was giving the unknown band gigs. The block
                           has been renamed Joey Ramone Place. The Bee
                           Gees have been given no such honor.

                           A leAther biker jAcket should be snug And
                           trim. Buy one a size smaller than you normally
                           would and you’ll look like a rock star. Trust us.
robert
redford
      Take away the
      matinee-idol
looks (and what might
be the best head of
hair Hollywood’s ever
seen) and Robert
Redford would still
earn his reputation
as the quintessential
all-American boy. Not
some spit-polish-
clean kid, but a true
American. His finest
work as an actor
and director—movies
like Three Days of
the Condor, All the
President’s Men,
Quiz Show —has
represented an
America in turmoil
and reflected, in
some way, the
importance of truth
and the disastrous
consequences that
arise when the truth is
suppressed. “Bob is all
about freedom,” says
Lois Smith, Redford’s
publicist and friend for
more than thirty-five
years. “It’s part of
who he is, with the
Sundance Institute
and his involvement
with environmental
causes.” Redford’s all-
American sensibility
also translated to his
fashion sense—the
tweed blazers,
jeans, and mirrored
aviators. Says Smith,
“We used to joke that
Ralph Lauren made
an entire career of
copying his dress.”

wire-rimmed
AviAtors Are
An essentiAl
Accessory. They’re
cool and refined,
meaning they look
right dressed up or
dressed down.


               * 379 *
              GQ.c O m
              O c t. 0 7
Jack
Nicholson
      About five years
      ago, during
one of the Yankees’
late-October playo≠
runs, Jack Nicholson
walked into
Manhattan’s Pastis
restaurant in the
middle of the lunch
rush. He was dressed
in a Sopranos-grade
tracksuit, a sti≠
Yankees cap, and a
pair of black shades.
The restaurant froze.
Jack made his way
through the tightly
packed dining room
and a table of five
blonds whipped
their necks around
to stare. Without
breaking stride,
Jack cracked a grin
and, in that raspy
drawl, asked loud
enough for more
than a few tables to
hear, “Ladies! How
we doin’?” It was
vintage Jack—pervy
enough to appreciate
their attention, cocky
enough to leave
them hanging, and
smart enough not to
let them interrupt
his date with a
steak sandwich. Not
many of us grow
up saying we want
to be a heavyset
                                                                   PHOTO CREDIT FOR MINOR CREDITS AND STYLING


divorcé who started
losing his hair in his
midthirties. But who
wouldn’t want to be
Jack? All charisma
and swagger, he’s a
man beyond clothes,
trends, and hairdos.
He’s a man, period.

A denim shirt
is brilliAntly,
unimpeAchAbly
AmericAn. And just
like a pair of jeans,
it gets better the
more you wear it.



3 8 0.G Q.c O m .O ct.0 7   ( Photographs by PHOtOGRAPHER NAmE )
O P P O S I T E PAG E : © DAV I D B A I L E Y. T H I S PAG E , C LO C K W I S E F R O M TO P L E F T: B E T T M A N N /C O R B I S ; R U E D E S A R C H I V E S / T H E G R A N G E R C O L L E C T I O N , N Y; P R E S S E S P O R T S / S P O R T S I L L U S T R AT E D .




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  FranÇois
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  truFFaut
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        The great
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        French director
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  François Truffaut was
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  a master at blending
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  the surprising and the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  mundane, artiness
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  and earnestness,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  innocence and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  mischief. And it
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  was that same,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Mick and keith                                                                                                                   quintessentially French
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  spirit—call it élégance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      It’s hard to          Street, these kinds of   trousers that Jagger     Keith in July 1967, after   wanted to be Byronic,   naturelle —that
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      imagine life before   clothes were available   and Richards favored     their release by British    to get laid, or         informed the way he
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 the Stones were the        for the first time—      became the look of the   authorities.) After         to be rebellious.”      dressed. His clothes
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Stones, before they        suede jackets, Chelsea   moment—and of the        that, like Lord Byron       The rest is history.    weren’t flashy, but
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 were The World’s           boots,” explains         next half century for    and other great British                             they fit him perfectly.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Greatest Rock ’n’ Roll     Michael Lindsay-Hogg,    rockers everywhere.      romantic heroes, Mick       it’s cAlled Attitude.   “He had that French
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Band™. But go ahead        the filmmaker behind     The boys courted         and Keith codified a        Nothing finishes         chic about him,” recalls
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 and try. Think back to     The Rolling Stones       their bad-boy image,     perfect combination of      o≠ an outfit better      Bruce Robinson, who
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Swingin’ London, a time    Rock and Roll Circus.    which culminated in      dangerous and dandy.        than a sharp dose of    starred in Truffaut’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 and place that shaped      “And these young         several dubious drug     “Their look began at a      confidence. How else     The Story of Adele
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 them even as they          musicians—who were       busts. (The photo        time when the world         do grown men get        H and went on to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 shaped it. “On Carnaby     earning money—they       here shows Mick and      was changing,” says         away with wearing       direct the cult classic
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            bought clothes.”                                  Lindsay-Hogg. “And          silk scarves and        Withnail & I. As a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            The scarves and                                   their look was the one      ru±ed shirts?           director, Robinson
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            dangerously tight                                 you aspired to if you                               has tried to emulate
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  not only Truffaut’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  on-set “gentleness—his
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  gentleman-ness, if
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  you like,” but also his
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  subtle fashion sense.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  “I used to copy the way
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  he wore his scarf—a

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Jean-claude Killy
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  long scarf with a big
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  loop, tucked inside his
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  leather jacket. Truffaut
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      “How I dress is very important,” Jean-                                                                                      had tremendous flair.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Claude Killy says, calling from his home
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 in Switzerland. “Like how I behave. Or how I                                                                                     dress For the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 speak.” Raised in a tiny village atop the French                                                                                 elements—in style.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Alps, this son of a shop owner learned to ski                                                                                    Flip your collar,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 shortly after he learned to walk, and shortly                                                                                    tie your scarf with
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 after that he began winning medals, finally                                                                                       confidence, and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 taking three golds at the 1968 Olympic Games,                                                                                    avoid looking like
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 which rocketed him at age 25, ready or not,                                                                                      the Michelin Man.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 into worldwide stardom. Killy looked like
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 he was cast for the part, like Robert Redford
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 in 1969’s Downhill Racer, only fiercer—tight
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 wool ski pants slashed with racing stripes,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 mock turtlenecks tucked beneath formfitting
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 sweaters, black leather lace-up boots, and a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 head of windswept hair. Killy taught us that
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 it wasn’t enough to be an Olympic hero; you
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 needed to look like one, too.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 A truly stylish mAn is stylish All the time—
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 whether he’s on the mountain, the court,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 or the golf course. Looking good isn’t reserved
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 for when you’re throwing on a tie.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 * 3 81 *
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 GQ.c O m
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 O c t. 0 7
Michael caine
                                                                                                                                                PHOTO CREDIT FOR MINOR CREDITS AND STYLING




      Michael Caine’s      belie his roots, helped    used him in Hannah and   sleeve: His contracts
      oft-discussed        distinguish Caine from     Her Sisters because      have stipulated he
working-class              his contemporaries,        he was believable        keep his characters’
mannerisms are             some of whom               as a “regular man.”      wardrobes. “I’m the
more than endearing        opted to shade             And he was scrappy,      original bourgeois
idiosyncrasies. “I         their less privileged      unentitled, and          nightmare,” Caine
expressed my rebellion     backgrounds. He didn’t     relentless, grabbing     once said. “A Cockney
by never getting rid of    possess O’Toole’s          role after role as if    with intelligence and a
my Cockney accent,”        good looks or Burton’s     working to keep the      million dollars.”
he has said. Turns out     intensity. Instead, he     clothes on his back.
holding on to that part    relied on less celestial   Ah, but for that, he     dArk, heAvy FrAmes
of his past, refusing to   qualities—and those        had an ace up his        mAke A stAtement.
                           everyman glasses of                                 Think of them not
                           his younger days—to                                 as bookish but as
                           win parts. Woody Allen                              perennially cool.
* 382 *
GQ.c O m
3 8 2.G0 7 O m .O ct.0 7
O c t . Q.c                                                                                              ( Photographs by PHOtOGRAPHER NAmE )
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Alain
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Delon
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         In the 1960s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         French films
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Plein Soleil and Le
O P P O S I T E PAG E : © DAV I D B A I L E Y. T H I S PAG E , C LO C K W I S E F R O M TO P L E F T: © 1 9 7 8 S A N F O R D R OT H /A M PA S / M P T V ; A R T D E PA R T M E N T; R E X F E AT U R E S / E V E R E T T C O L L E C T I O N .




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Samouraï, Alain Delon’s


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   heDi
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  characters hurt and kill
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  almost idly, as though
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  they couldn’t think of

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   slimane
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  anything better to do.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  And yet none of it ever
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  registers in his bright
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  blue eyes or on his                                                                    When you see
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  unlined face. It’s often                                                               Hedi Slimane in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  said he acted as though                                                          person, he reminds
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  he were wearing a                                                                you of a Japanimation
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  mask (see the cover of                                                           character: two-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  the Smiths’ The Queen                                                            dimensionally skinny,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Is Dead —that’s him),                                                            big round Speed Racer
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  and his clothes in Soleil                                                        eyes, and a stop-and-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  and Samouraï, preppy                                                             stare hairdo that has
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  togs and snug fedora,                                                            ranged from a faux
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  respectively, serve the                                                          hawk (which he is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  same function—they                                                               credited with creating,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  seal the facade.                                                                 back around 1998)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Whether or not you can                                                           to, more recently, a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  pin his movies’ easy                                                             helmetlike cut that
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  detachment on his                                                                feels vaguely East
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  supposed association                                                             Berlin. Except that
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  with real-life criminals                                                         you don’t even need
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  (Delon’s bodyguard                                                               to see Slimane to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  was found dead in a                                                              appreciate the former
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Dumpster in 1968),                                                               Dior Homme designer’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  it’s riveting to see                                                             style. Just look at
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  someone so pretty                                                                Justin Timberlake or
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  commit acts so ugly.                                                             Green Day’s Billie Joe
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  It’s something Delon                                                             Armstrong or any
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  understood better than                                                           number of young,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  anyone. “People go to                                                            cool-cat actors.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  the movies to dream,”                                                            Basically, any of us
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  he said, “not to see                                                             slinking around in an

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Pete Doherty
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  actors with faces like                                                           anorexically thin black
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  their plumber.”                                                                  tie; or a superslim,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   short-cut suit; or white
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  dress For the                     Likes crack; digs heroin. Frequent run-ins     sneakers with slouchy
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  occAsion. When                    with the law. But used to shag Kate Moss!      jeans and a suit jacket;
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  you’re vacationing          What else is there to say about Pete Doherty?        or a back-from-the-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  in the south of             One more thing: He’s always had, for worse           dead fedora owes
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Italy in the middle         more than better, a certain authenticity. Rock       a debt to Slimane.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  of summer, it’s             ’n’ roll may be dying, but for now he’s the only     Some designers make
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  okay to undo an             bona fide let’s-dial-it-back-to-1972 rock star        beautiful clothes; some
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  extra button.               we’ve got. Other rockers look his part or act his    change the way we
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              part, or sport the lank hair and wet-Play-Doh        dress. Slimane has
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              complexion, but Pete actually does the drugs         done both.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              and has the sex. And in so doing, he provides
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              us with that all-important figure: the young          it’s All About Fit.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              wastrel we sort of envy but we’re glad we’re         No matter your
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              not. As an old girlfriend of Pete’s once said        body type, your
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              in a British newspaper: “It is di∞cult for his       clothes—especially
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              friends to tell him he is going wrong in his life,   your suit jackets—
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              because he’s been dating one of the world’s          should deftly
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              most beautiful women, he’s got a top-ten single      shadow its lines,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              with his band, and he’s on the front of every        favoring precision
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              newspaper in this country.”                          over indecision.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              just becAuse you’re weAring A suit doesn’t
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              meAn you cAn’t weAr boots. But we’re not
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              talking businessman suits—we’re talking
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              slim-cut, rock-guy getups.
             cary Grant
                  “It’s sort of a mystery,” muses Eva Marie
                  Saint on what set apart her North by
             Northwest costar, Cary Grant. “Other men
             wear suits. But with other men, there’s the
             man and then there’s the suit on him. That
             didn’t happen to Cary Grant. Style was like a
             skin.” Whether that skin was custom Kilgour
             or o≠-the-rack Brooks Brothers, the legendary
             actor wore it e≠ortlessly. He became the
             twentieth century’s model of polished
             masculinity—all worsteds, understated
             silks, and unparalleled ease. But before he
             arrived in Hollywood in 1932, Grant was
             known as Archibald Leach, a vaudevillian
             acrobat who remade himself, disguising
             his thick neck and uneven shoulders with
             upturned collars and high-cut armholes
             that he requested of tailors everywhere from
             L.A. to Hong Kong. As Grant once said, “I
             don’t dress for the moment.” Which is why,
             more than two decades after his death, he
             remains a dominant presence in our sartorial
             imagination.

             A light grAy suit is your best bet to looking
             like cAry grAnt. And keep the pairings
             simple—white shirt, dark tie, great shoes.
                                                                   © 20 07 M A R K S H AW/ M P T V




             written And reported by: Andy comer, Hilary
             Elkins, Alex French, David Gargill, Randy Hartwell,
             Howie Kahn, cole Louison, Laurence Lowe, trent
             macNamara, Jordan Reed, and Luke Zaleski



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GQ.c O m
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