NSX SRS Module Remove and Check by ert554898


									NSX SRS Module Removal and Check
SRS light on, flickering, or turns on and off depending on acceleration or deceleration.

Added Concerns:
Air Conditioner Drain Blocked (or was)
Water under Rugs (Passenger or Driver)
NOTE: If while the SRS light is on, the horn or cruise control doesn’t work, this may
be due to a stretched ‘cable reel’ or fuse. If you have that situation, I would CHECK

Created 8/30/2009
Updated: 8/31/2009
Michael Lohr
NSXPrime ID: Madbox
• Everything written in this document is from my experience. I’m not a
certified mechanic or in anyway affiliated with Honda. It is the best advice I
can give for the situation I ran into.

• I have posted this for use by anyone who may need it.

• All that said, if you have symptoms suggesting you may need to check your
SRS Module, get yourself in the right mind set for this job:

        From the movie 300…
                “This will not be over quickly; you will not enjoy this.”
• Your SRS light is on. It can remain on, flicker or it may go on or off
depending on acceleration or deceleration. NOTE: First check to see if the
horn or cruise control works while the light is on, if one or both doesn’t, this
may be due to the ‘cable reel’ or fuse. CHECK THAT FIRST!

• It has been discovered by a few people that condensation from the air
conditioning system can accumulate and overflow onto the SRS module
located beneath the radio under the dashboard.

• This is nearly always due to the AC drain being plugged. Reportedly it can
also happen on extremely humid days with heavy AC use.

• Generally the rugs on the driver side, passenger side or both will be wet.
Once the water hits the SRS module, most of it will make it’s way to the rugs
but some of it can get inside the module and cause corrosion.

• This is documentation on how to remove the SRS module, disassemble it
and check for corrosion. It took me 13hrs with mild direction. The intent of
this is to get you complete under 6, maybe as low as 3. It was done on a
1992 NSX. I can’t speak to weather it would be different on other models.
Tools Needed.
• Phillips head screw driver
• Flat head screw driver
• Paper towel or old shirt
• T-30 torque screw driver or socket

• Standard Pliers
• Metric Socket Set
• Drill
• 7/32 Drill bit
• Self Tapping Screws (medium size)
• Heavy duty trash bag (for plastic material)
• Zip Ties

Hopefully not:
• Dremel
1. Start your NSX
2. Turn on the climate control and turn the fan on (neither the temperature or
   fan speed is important)
3. Manually select the air flow so it is all directed to the feet. This is
   important because there is a lever which moves out of interference when
   in this position. If the air direction is in any other position you will be
   unable to remove the passenger center counsel rug.
4. Turn car off.
5. Remove the key from the ignition.
6. Remove negative battery lead followed by the positive (To be safe we
   disconnect the battery). People have removed the module with only the
   key out of the ignition. I couldn’t confirm that this was safe so I unplugged
   the battery.
7. Take note of the time. You will need to wait 30 minutes prior to un-
   connecting the SRS module because there is a battery backup in case
   there is a loss of power in a crash. 30 minutes is the safe amount of time
   to wait according to the manual.
8. We’ll keep going as it will probably take us at least 30 minutes to get to
   the module.
Remove Center Council
This process is borrowed largely from BrianK’s climate control removal
   instructions although I did take new pictures while doing this.
1. Pull up parking
2. Remove false
   bottom of arm rest
   compartment with a
   screw driver.
Remove Center Council
• Remove the 4 screws holding the
  arm rest.

• Remove arm rest (It pulls straight
• Remove 1 screw from where the
  front of the arm rest sat.
Remove Center Council
• Pull shift boot straight down. It is
  held by some clips but should go
  straight down with a little force.
• Unscrew shifter handle.

• Remove ash tray by pressing the
  release button on the cover door
  while open.
Remove Center Council
• Remove the two screws under
  where the ash tray was.

• Carefully remove the clock. There
  are two clips, one per side.
  Using one of the upper corners
  seems to work best with a flat
  head screw driver. Use a paper
  towel or something to protect the
  plastic. Do one side then the
  other. Disconnect the harness
  once you have it out.
Remove Center Council
• Remove the two screws under
  where the clock was.

• Carefully remove vent package.
  There are two clips on the under
  side. I find the best way to get
  them out to use a driver license
  with a paper towel over it. It
  seems to be just strong enough to
  push the clips. They are on the
  bottom far right and left.
  Disconnect the connector.
Remove Center Council
• You can now remove the center
  council cover, but be sure to
  disconnect cigarette lighter and
  aspirator fan connections.

• Pull cover entirely off and put
Remove Center Council
• You can now see the SRS module
  through the radio mounting plate.

• Remove climate control unit
Remove Center Council
• When removing the climate
  control unit, if you flip it on it’s
  back you can see the release
  button on the connectors.
• Remove the CCU.

• Remove the 4 screws from the
  radio unit.
• Note the ground wire on the lower
  right screw for later reinstallation.
Remove Center Council
• Remove the radio by carefully
  removing the two antenna cables,
  the CD Changer connector and
  the radio harness (presumably
  you would have less if you don’t
  have a CD changer).

• Now we can fully see the SRS
  unit. Unfortunately we cannot
  take it out yet because the bolts
  are on the sides…
Remove Pass. Side Rug
• There are three total securing
  points to remove the passenger
  side counsel wall.
• 1 bolt is accessible from the
  passenger seat. It is in the vent.

• The other two are accessible from
  the inside of the removed center
  counsel. One is pictured here:
• The other is more toward the rear
  of the car but not pictured. It has
  the same type faster as the one
  shown. Neither really have to be
  unscrewed, you can lift the tab off
  the bolt with a pair of pliers.
Remove Pass. Side Rug
• If this white plastic piece is in the
  way of removing the passenger
  rug, you did not listen to the
  preparation slide telling you to set
  the CCU air to all feet. If that’s the
  case you need to hook up the
  battery and CCU to get the air flow
  to feet so this lever moves out of
  the way.
• Pull the rug back.
• Now 2 of the four SRS module
  bolts accessible.
Remove Driver Side Rug
• There are three fasteners holding
  the driver side counsel rug in. I
  didn’t take pictures. There isn’t
  one on the vent like the
  passenger. It’s about 6” forward
  and above the vent. It is a pain to
  get to, but doable. The others are
  inside the center counsel like the
  passenger ones were.
• Pull the rug back.
• Now the final 2 bolts are
Remove SRS Module
•   Confirm it has been 30 minutes since
    you disconnected the battery.
•   Disconnect the SRS Module
    connector. It is accessible from the
    top through the center counsel. There
    is a release button top center.
•   Now remove the bolts which are T-30
    sized torque bolts. I suggest a socket.
    The inserts are different on each side,
    horrible and strip easy. I broke the
    welds on the passenger side ones
    taking them off. Try penetrating oil
    (although it didn’t work for me). This
    is the painful part. If they strip you will
    need to drill them out (I used a 7/32
    bit). Don’t worry though it’s not too
    difficult to re-secure. Being careful not
    to bang the unit too hard.
•   Remove it from the passenger side.
•   You could very likely have water pour
    out of this thing while removing it...
Check the SRS Module
• Remove the 4 bolts securing the
  top on the SRS module.

• Pry the cover off from the side
  with a flat head screw driver.

• Unscrew the 7 bolts securing the
  board to the case.
• Carefully remove circuit board.
Check the SRS Module
• Now you need to inspect the unit.
1. Is it corroded? If it is, then water definitely
   got in there at one time or another; likely
   from the AC. You’ll need to come up with a
   way to clean up the solder connections
   and board. I’m not positive how to do that;
2. If it’s not corroded, then you may be lucky
   like me and caught it early enough. If this
   is the case, dry the case and the circuit
   board. Dab dry don’t stroke as I think you
   can create static electricity and short
   something. Run a fan on the whole unit for
   an hour to ensure you get the moisture out.

•   Suggestion: Brad Groshok brought up a
    good idea which neither of us thought of at
    the time we went through this. It may not
    be a bad idea to drill some drain wholes in
    the bottom of this case. If I had to do it
    again I would. I suggest drilling where
    there are red dots are with a reasonably
    sized bit maybe that 7/32 bit or ¼ inch.
•   Now reassemble for testing.
Check the SRS Module
• From the passenger side, place the unit in the location where it will
   ultimately return (it takes a bit to get it back in there).
• Plug it back in.
• Connect the car battery.
• Start car or put to accessory and wait for lights to go out.
• Check to see if the SRS light is still on.
• If it is we have the unfortunate list of possibilities.
1. Your SRS Module needs to be replaced.
2. The SRS Module is not the problem.
• I’ve heard of the ‘Cable reel’ being a possible reason or a fuse. If you
   check this previously as suggested then I’m sad to say, I don’t know
   have a solution for you

• Assuming all is working, continue.
Reinstall the SRS Module
• It’s really just the reverse process
  to get the car back together. I
  opted to put a piece of plastic
  under the air vent. This may be a
  bad idea. I don’t know how much
  heat is in there. To the right is
  what I did.

• One thing to be sure of: When
  you re-install the driver side rug be
  100% sure you have the vent
  connected to the air source. It
  shouldn’t be too difficult with the
  center council open (I put the
  plastic up first which caused some
• On the next slide I have the
  process I used assuming the bolts
  stripped (I’ll bet at least one did).
Stripped Bolt Work Around
• Since I broke the welds on the inserts on both passenger side bolts,
  there was pretty much no way I was getting back to an OEM setup.
• The good news is, the brackets are huge and I simply used self tapping
  screws. It’s a bit hack, but I don’t know how I would get a welder in
Good Luck
• That’s my story and I’m sticking too it.

• This documentation file turned out to be about 40 meg due to the large
  pictures. I will post a low resolution version (<800k).

• Acknowledgements: I would like to thank ‘Brian K’ for his instructions
  on the center counsel removal and Brad Groshok (NSXPrime ID ody)
  for his memory on what he experienced that led him to this process (not
  to mention the moral support for getting me through this)

Drive Safe. Long live the NSX…

        Michael Lohr
        NSXPrime ID: Madbox.

                                             (No, I don’t drive around like this, but it’s funny…)

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