Gloomy Class

							[WARNING!!]
Be prepared to be either amazed or very confused by the following information and I take no responsibility for
random nervous breakdowns and permanent mental scaring.

Greetings all,

Since quite a few people have been asking if I could do a texturing tutorial for the masses I have decided to
actually do one, albeit limited in its application. What I mean by ‘limited’ is that I have only a limited amount of
knowledge when it comes to texturing so for me to do a long, all-round tutorial would take years. I’m no ‘pro’
and I’m actually incredibly lame when it comes to things technical and computer-ish. Art on the other hand is
something I know something about but again a true artists can never say that they know what art is…bloomin’
weirdo’s. Trying to teach art over the net is impossible I’m afraid (for me anyway) but I can give a few tips and
perhaps I can find a bloomin’ program that can take pictures of what I talking about.

          As I mentioned before, I can only give this tutorial with reference to the current programs and styles
that I personally use for the DS mod. Perhaps over time I will be able to give more help in similar scenarios but
for now the HW modding community will just have to improvise on the information I’m about to share. For
‘Gloomy’s Texturing Class’ you will need a copy of Photoshop (5.5 in my case but any should do as long as it
has the necessary file formats), a copy of Milkshape 3D (v1.5.5 in my case) and a copy of 3D Exploration. For
those who think they are ‘Artistic Novices’, you should look around for interesting surface textures so you can
use them for future texture materials…most great artists look around their environment to see what works best.

          Ok, first off you will of course need a lovely new mesh to fiddle around with (not like that you
dodgy…). For all of my DS modelling I use Milkshape 3D which I’m sure many of the modding community has
heard of. To find a copy of this freeware modelling package check out the following url/address
http://www.swissquake.ch/chumbalum-soft/ Located at the url/address provided (presuming you actually look
around or course) are a few links that will help you start modelling in Milkshape 3D. For me to go into detail in
this area is a bit silly really since there are hundreds of ‘good’ tutorials around and this tutorial is all about
texturing. If you want to learn how to model in MS 3D though, try looking at some of the Half-Life/Quake
modelling tutorials since these are the most common. By using the information provided in these tutorials you
can easily adapt them to Homeworld. If there are still some problems with modelling in MS 3D I may consider
doing a small tutorial but this is unlikely, sorry.

          As I have mentioned before this tutorial is based around my own limited approach to HW modding.
There are a few key steps, which I take that make my task/s easier and more fun. I have never been one for
using other people’s designs and the Dark Star project is evidence of this. While modelling existing meshes is
fun and a great place for learning to model complex objects, it can also limit you to certain ways of thinking. I
mention this ‘certain ways of thinking’ malarky because this is what can produce different modelling/texturing
styles. By looking at many different texturing styles, I have found a style that suits me and so I’m sharing this
style to the masses.

          While I’m trying not to turn this tutorial into a modelling class, there are some steps that can make ‘my’
style of texturing easier. When modelling a design make sure to look carefully at all the angles and areas of the
design. What I mean by ‘looking carefully at all the angles’ (x,y,z axis’s etc) is that there are several directions a
modelling package will look at a 3D object, hence it being ‘3D’. Looking at the image below (fig1) you can see
that the textures are drawn to suit the different sides/faces of the mesh. There are several front textures, rear
textures, side textures, etc.

[fig.1]
         While some more experienced modders will have ‘studied’ mesh texture maps, new modders should be
aware that there are several ways of making textures. Some prefer to make many small texture maps that can be
used for multiple areas/surfaces while others (like me) use several texture images on a single texture map area
and squeeze in as much as possible to save some texture memory. To make textures that correspond to each
direction can be a bit awkward and will be a bit confusing especially if you have ignore my warning to fully
learn Milkshape 3D first.

         You can try the next bit of information in your modelling program (MS 3D in my case) If you so wish
you can even try to make a similar model that I have shown in fig 1. I personally recommend you stick to
something very, VERY simple for now.

Its example time!

Ok, you’ve just started your model and so this is the best time to think of the different axis directions. Make the
first object of your model and prepare all its modifications such as extrusions or vertex movements/alterations.
Once you have made those small modifications STOP…for now. With the simple shape you have just made
(whatever is it) you will see all the different axis directions needed for ‘my’ texturing technique. What I mean is
that you will have a front view, rear view, side views and top and bottom views. If you are using MS 3D you
should have the 4-window display that makes things a whole lot easier. Looking at each of these directions you
can clearly see the surface areas that may need the most texture coverage (fig2).

[fig.2]
          Looking at fig 2 you can see I’ve shown the front view of my model as an example of a single view
perspective, which lies on the z-axis. If you have made a single object you can now look at its front perspective
to see the front surface areas. Looking at this view, select all the front face polygons you can see being careful
you do ‘not’ select any side poly’s, top poly’s or bottom poly’s. Selecting rear polygons won’t make much
difference, which you may notice later on.

          If you have selected the front polygons, regroup then into a new group heading and give it a title like
‘front tex0’. This new group is your front-end group, which will allow you to make textures specifically for the
front of your mesh. If you have done this do the same process for the rest of the model but looking at the other
perspective views.

          Rushing ahead now I’m hoping you have tried this little task out yourself…bloomin’ easy. Once you
have all the surface headings/groups it should consist of the view perspectives of the different axis directions. So
you should have a rear view group, a front view, side views, etc. If you’re a real beginner you may have made a
separate group for each and every side. To tell you the truth, there is no point. The view perspective you can see
from the z-axis should be in one group (front and rears views), the view perspective of the x-axis (the sides)
should consist of both sides of the mesh…make sense? The y-axis should consist of the top and bottom views so
if you separated them like you may have done with the groups, group them together since they are on the same
axis (trust me, its very simple). If you look at fig 3 below you will see a simple picture that describes what I
mean. When you first start modelling in MS 3D you will have a axis formation like that below. In other
modelling packages, the axis orientations will be different. For now stick to the alignment I have shown below.

[fig.3]
          Now that you have got all your groups sorted for that one object you can carry on with your model in
the same fashion for every piece. It may sound a bit long winded but it’s very quick and simple and will make
the task of texturing easier. To save the bother of describing a whole mesh, I will base the rest of this example
on the single object you have already created (I’m hoping your actually trying this). Taking the single object as
a finished model, save it as a regular MS 3D format and ‘Export’ it as a ‘Wavefront OBJ…’ into another
directory.

         Once you have the .obj format DO NOT group it with Crook’s object grouper since it will make the
process of group dividing the mesh pretty much useless. Using your copy of 3D Exploration you can now take
‘snap-shot’ jpeg’s of each of the directions of the mesh. While you may of grouped all the axis perspectives
together (front and rear view together in a group, etc), you should take a jpeg render of all the sides of the mesh.
Depending on the details you want to add to your model you may have to take a jpeg image of both sides so that
you have 2 images to reference your texture designs.

         When you have taken all the snap shot images you need, open the jpeg image in your graphics program,
in my case Photoshop 5.5. Using the front view as an example, you should have a jpeg image of the front view
of your model so you can clearly see the front areas that may require texture detail. Within your graphics
program open a new canvas to the desired texture map dimensions you need.

So, what’s all this texture dimension stuff?

For those who are unaware of the texture map limitations of HW there are several dimension orientations you
can use that may make the texturing process slightly easier and more efficient (kindly taught to me by Beserk,
cheers). The maximum texture map dimensions that can be used in HW is 256 x256 pixels. After that, each
dimension can be divided by half each time, decreasing the total size of the texture map. So for example you
would divide the 256 x 256 map by half making the new dimensions 128 x128 pixels, 64 x 64 pixels and 32 x 32
pixels. After 32 x 32 pixels things get a bit ridiculous but that does not mean that you won’t find a use for a
texture map of 16 x 16 (lodding is an example of such low pixel values). While the values I have shown create a
square dimension, the pixel measurements can be mixed up a bit, i.e. 256 x 128, 64 x 16, etc. For this example
open a new canvas with the dimensions of 256 x 256 pixels. With these dimensions you will be using the
maximum pixel values allowed for a single HW texture map.

Oh boy, time to be artistic then?

If you have found a suitable surface texture you would like to experiment with or you can create your own this is
the time. While the Dark Star texturing process uses textures than suite individual meshes, on nearly all the
models there are several ‘base’ textures that are created before even considering adding texture detail. If you
take the Babylon 5 series as an example you will notice that many of the Earth Alliance vessels use a ‘generic
hull plating’ texture that looks similar throughout many of their designs. There are many reasons why they have
decided to use the same generic texture for different meshes but the main reasons are due to time and
continuity/styling. To create a new base texture each time for a new model/mesh is of course rather silly and it
wastes time and makes some meshes look out of place in comparison to related ship designs.

          Supplied in this little tutorial package are some (naff) base textures that have been created to aid other
mod projects and texturing novices. Remember there’s nothing wrong with starting from the very beginning
(‘newbies’ in this respect) so feel free to use the texture maps that have been made available. If you have chosen
a texture map that suits you, open the jpeg image in your graphics program. You should notice that the texture
maps provided are all 256 x 256 pixels in dimension; the same size as the blank canvas you should’ve already
created.

         Now that you have a blank canvas for a new texture map and a reference hull texture you can now turn
your attention back to the front view jpeg you opened earlier. Looking at fig 4 you should see the white outline I
have made of the main hanger areas of the mesh.

[fig.4]
          What this white outline represents is the use of the ‘Lasso’ tool, which will allow you to create a
marquee outline around a chosen area (remember I’m writing this tutorial towards Photoshop users, sorry).
Using the Lasso tool, select the chosen area of your front view. Looking back at fig 4 you can see that only a
chosen area has been selected, not the entire front view. Once you have selected the area you want, drag the
marquee selection to the reference hull texture provided (use the lasso tool to capture and drag the selection over
without cutting away the original image). If you have successfully moved the selection over to the reference hull
texture, use the ‘Move Tool’ function (V key) to cut away the texture. What should happen is that the shape
selection you have made will cut out a segment of the reference hull texture. While still holding the mouse
button and moving the selection, drag the new selection back over the blank canvas map.

         Ok you have done the first step to the process of individual texturing. Since you have taken texture
shape/selection from the front view jpeg you can be pretty certain that the texture shape will fit the selected area
of the mesh (fig 5).

[fig.5]
          Looking at fig 5 you can see (the observant one’s) that I have cut out different perspective viewpoints
from the mesh and laid them out on the texture map. Looking at number ‘1’ and the white outline around the
segment, you can see the shape I originally showed in fig 4. Since I have used a base texture I had created
before all I needed to do is create extra detail such as lights and hull panelling. If you look back at fig 1 you will
also see that some of the textures of the mesh are on this texture map. If you are a beginner only place a single
group of perspective viewpoints on a single texture map. What I mean by this is that you should only place the
front view selections on a single texture map and so on. In the image shown in fig 5 there are 2 different view
perspective selections on a single texture map. This is only due to a bit more experience so if you manage to
figure out this process, you will be able to do exactly what I can do.

          If you have managed to drag and drop the texture material over to the blank canvas you should have a
textured shape that corresponds to your mesh. If you have considered your mesh design carefully you will know
which bits can do with more detail than others. Looking back at fig 5 you will see that the different perspective
shapes are of different sizes. Since I carefully consider my designs before I model them I know which bits need
more detail, which is essential if you want to keep texture memory usage to a minimum. If you have created a
mesh that is quite large and has several frontal areas you may be tempted to just drag and drop segments without
thinking about what needs detail and what doesn’t. The more you can squeeze into a single texture map the
better since you will then use less texture maps to texture the entirety of the mesh. Trying to describe this
element of texturing via a badly written tutorial is rather difficult so just practice and experiment to figure out
what I mean. Remember, the more pixels in an image the sharper the outcome so if you can enlarge the selected
area you will be able to add more detail to the shape. Do not enlarge the blank canvas (the base of your new
texture map) or it will be too big to be converted to a HW usable format, only the shape/layer needs to be
enlarged.

          Once you have put the perspective viewpoint pieces onto your canvas (now a texture map) you can then
think about applying some detail. As I mentioned before, I cannot teach people how to draw via the web, it’s
just not that easy. Making textures for HW meshes is fairly easy since most people do not push ship design
limitations to the limits. In most scenarios most ship designs consist of basic generic hull material and perhaps
some lighting and hull markings. Probably the best way to design ship textures is to remember the surrounding
its going to exist in. While I like fantastical ideas and all things surreal remember that design can be
personalised. If you are just experimenting or you are a texturing beginner, make the texture simple and clear.
Make sure you try and figure out how to texture efficiently and accurately before you dive into the deep end and
try making a Van Gogh from texture map.

         When you are creating some extra details on your mesh texture remember a few tips. In HW the ships
go in a particular direction so use hull marking to indicate this. They can be call-sign markings, hull damage
burns or just the direction of hull material (hull plates, etc), use these elements for different effects. Also try and
consider lighting directions and ship classes/uses when detailing texture material. If it is a combat ship try using
a darker tone of colour from the original hull material and make small patches of colour on the hull indicating
hull burns. Once you have marked a small area for a burn effect, use the blur/smudge tool to blur the darker
colour to give the hull a burned/worn effect. If you look at fig 6 you will see that I have used several elements of
design/art to make my hull textures look more worn and characteristic. You can even try to copy what I have
done by using some simple filters and blur effects. If you are clued up with the fine elements of Photoshop you
will be able to do these effects quite easily if you know how. I don’t bother with anything flash or even
technical, I just draw the textures as I think they should look.

[fig.6]




          Once you have detailed all the textures on the texture map, you can then try and test then by applying
them to your mesh in Milkshape 3D. If you have been paying attention you should have a single object mesh
that is very simple so applying textures should be very easy. In fact, drawing the textures is more difficult but
more fun since applying the textures can take a bit or practice and time.

Errr, how do I apply the textures then?

To get those lovely new textures working for MS 3D they have to be saved as a .BMP format so to do this flatten
the final texture map and save it as the appropriate format. Since this maybe the first time some people have
done this, check that the texture map dimension is 256 x 256 pixels and that there are no layers (you can’t save
as a .Bmp otherwise). If this is all correct its best to save the new texture map in the same directory as the mesh
you created earlier. I usually create individual files for each ship (in my MS 3D directory) and save all the
necessary bits in that file.

          In MS 3D open the mesh (whatever you called it) and set the bottom right corner view to textured view.
This view selection will of course allow you to view your mesh with the textures on, unfortunately, just saving
he texture map in the same directory does not mean its finished yet. Once you have opened your mesh, select the
front view group you should’ve created before. If you have done this correctly, the selection should go red while
the rest of the wire-frame view remains white. To select a particular group, click on the ‘GROUPS’ tab on the
right-hand side and then select the correct group (the front view group). Once this has been done click on the
‘MATERIALS’ tab and you will notice the blank texture group area and an option to create a new texture group.

         If you have got this far, click on the ‘New’ button on the right-side option’s table and then you can enter
a new name in the heading box that says ‘Material01’ (it could say material00 too…whatever). Now enter a new
heading in this box to name the texture group, something like FrontTex0 should do. Once you have done this
you will then have to click on the ‘Rename’ button to give the new texture group its name and place on the
texture hierarchy.
         Within the Material tab options you will have noticed several options referring to the texture options.
In most cases you can actually ignore the round sphere and the four boxes referring to the Ambient, Diffuse,
Specular and Emissive qualities of the textures. If you have made the new texture you will notice that the
textures still have not been applied to the mesh. Underneath the material quality sphere (and its 4 quality
options) you will see 2 rows that have ‘None’ written in them. In the first row select the larger button (has
<none> written inside) and it will activate a ‘open’ file option were you can select the texture you want to use. If
you saved the texture in the same directory as the mesh then it shouldn’t be too to find what you’re looking for.

         Once you have selected the correct texture all you need to do is then press the ‘Assign’ button’ to apply
the texture to the highlighted mesh group. If you see the textures applied to the model in the texture display
window then you know you’re on the right track. While you may have got this far there is still one major task
you have to do; apply the textures to the correct perspective direction, in this case the front view/direction.

          If you go to the drop-down menu bar at the top of the screen and select ‘Window’ you will have several
options available to you. The only option you will need for this bit is the ‘Texture Coordinate Editor’, which is
the main tool for applying the textures to your mesh group. Once you have selected this option another window
will open with option buttons displayed to the right. Straight away you will notice these buttons correspond to
the selections you make in this new window. In this window you will also notice two drop down options; one
with the heading title of your mesh group and the other with the direction name (front, back, etc). If you are
working with the ‘front’ view group make sure it is selected in the first drop-down option menu. If this is
correct, select the view perspective in the second menu, of course this should be the ‘front’ view as well.

          If this has worked out correctly you should now have the ‘front view’ mesh group drawn out (in wire-
frame mode) in the Editor Window. This wire-frame layout should clearly show you all the vertexes of the
group and if they are selected they should turn red (little red squares). All you have to do now is move the select
wire-frame shape’s over the correct texture areas and basically that texture area will be moved into the correct
location on the mesh. So for example, if your mesh has a square front end, you will see the square shape in the
Coordinate Window. Move the square shape over the square texture detail of your texture map and that’s it. Try
experimenting with the options to get a better feel for the texturing process but really, this is very simple. If I
could figure it out without the aid of tutorials, anyone can do it. Admittedly it took me some time and lots of
effort but its p**s easy once you get used to it.

          If you manage to figure this process out you can try this technique with the other sides of the mesh.
After a while you will soon find that this texturing system can be mixed up a bit more far more adventurous
modelling. As long as you remember to plan your approach to the modelling and texturing process, you can
really finish your work damn quickly. I often complete my models within an hour or two but I prefer to stick to
low-poly modelling and so this texturing style is perfect for me.

          If you have applied all your textures and it look fine in MS 3D, save it as a MS 3D format and then
‘Export’ it again as and save as a .obj format. You can then view the mesh and its newly applied textures in 3D
Exploration along as the .obj and the .Bmp material are in the same directory. If you find that you can see the
mesh but not the textures, its more than likely that you have saved the textures in another directory and so you
have to search for them using 3D Exploration (easy). Make sure to check you mesh and textures carefully since
you make get some outlines and blurs on the textures. For example, if you have a light hull texture but a dark
back-group on your texture map, you may get outlines on your textures. To fix this, there is now need to re-
apply the textures, just go back into your graphics program and fill in the background of the texture to match the
hull material. Replace the old .Bmp for the new one and you will hopefully see that the textures have lost there
outlines.

          Anyhoo, I hope the HW modding community finds this tutorial of use and please forgive my terrible
teaching skills. As I mentioned before, I’m not a professional and I still have lots to learn so please try and
incorporate your own styles and knowledge to this information. I’ve honestly explained my texturing technique
as best I can but I’m sure there will be some confused souls out there that can’t understand my mindless babble.
If there are any problems please mention them over at the ModFactory, TGU or the Relic forums and perhaps
some other kinds people can translate my nonsense. Take care peeps and good luck.

Mr Gloomy - I hope I have helped