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Jumbo Glacier Climbing Camp
Friday, August 11th (evening meeting) to Saturday, August 19th, 2006

Guides:             Roger Laurilla, (250) 344-5292, rwlba@telus.net
                    Matt Peter, (250) 344-6663, mtbpeter@hotmail.com
Camp Manager:       Cam Roe, (403) 253-5463, camroe@psinaptic.com
Cost:               $1695 + $118.65 GST = $1813.65
Cancellation Insurance: $ 130 (optional)
# Participants:     Eight

The Setting
The Jumbo Glacier area is the “Columbia Icefield” of the Interior Ranges of BC.
The greatest concentration of high peaks in the Interior Ranges will rise above
our camp in Farnham Creek. Mt. Farnham (3470m/11,378’) and Mts. Delphine,
Jumbo, Karnak and Commander (all > 3350m/11,000’) will all be within striking
distance, along with many other peaks. We will access the area by logging road,
and sleep in mountain tents. The area offers a wide range of difficulties on climbs
on rock, snow and ice.

This trip is best suited for climbers with previous glacier experience and
intermediate mountaineering skills. You will need a good level of fitness in order
to fully enjoy this camp, as you will be climbing 7-9 hours a day with a 9-12 kg
(20-25 lb) pack over ice and rock. Porters will help carry group food and gear to
the base camp, however your pack going in and out of the camp will weigh
approximately 18-21 kg (40-45 lbs) for a distance of approximately 5km (3 miles)
and 600m (2000’) of elevation gain.

For those individuals who live at lower elevations (less than 1000m/3300’), we
recommend that you arrive in the mountains a few days before the camp, to hike
or climb independently and to acclimatize to the altitude.

Camp Staff
Roger Laurilla is the Vice President, Activities for the ACC. He has been an ACC
member for 30 years and has worked for the ACC as a mountain guide since the
late 80s. He is currently the manager of the CMH Monashees Lodge and is also a
professional photographer.

Matt Peter is an assistant alpine guide and has been involved with the ACC for
several years. “Mr. Story Teller”, Matt will keep you both safe and entertained
during the week.
Cam Roe is the ACC’s current President. A second generation Silver Rope
Award recipient, he will be your camp manager and amateur leader. Cam’s role
on this camp is to represent The Alpine Club of Canada, solve any problems that
may arise with logistics, and coordinate camp chores for participants on a
rotational basis (pitching and striking camp, obtaining water, carrying group
gear, preparing meals etc.). He will also participate and assist with all aspects of
the camp including leading a rope team. This is your opportunity to be served
dinner by your president!

We are confident that this team will provide an unforgettable experience!

Accommodation and Meals
The first evening will be spent at the comfortable Apple Tree Inn in Radium Hot
springs, B.C. Reservations have been made in advance and the Inn will be
expecting you. Please identify yourself as a member of the Alpine Club of
Canada when you arrive. Note that dinner on the night of the first meeting,
August 11th and following the camp on August 19th, is not included in your camp
fee, but the hotel accommodation and breakfast on the 20th is included. There
will be two participants to a room at the Apple Tree Inn.

If you require accommodation at the Apple Tree Inn before August 11th, or on
August 19th when the camp is over, please contact (250) 344-2276 or email

During the camp, participants will be arranged into groups of two or three and
will share three-person/four-season tents (bring ear plugs, just in case of
flapping tent flys or noisy sleepers).

Meals during the camp will be organized by our camp staff, but participants will
be expected to assist with meal preparation, dishes and other camp chores. Meals
will be tasty and filling, with a significant proportion being dehydrated for
weight considerations.

Toilet facilities will of course be rustic in nature, but will be sheltered and
sanitary. Our staff is dedicated to operating this camp in an environmentally
sound manner.

Transportation & Meeting Place
The group will meet at the Apple Tree Inn, in Radium Hot Springs B.C. on
Friday August 11th 2006 at 8.00 pm Mountain Time. The Apple Tree Inn is
located on Highway 93 South, just west of the Radium Hot Springs, phone 1-800-
350-1511, email www.appletreeinnbc.com.
During this meeting, an equipment check will be done. Group equipment and
gear will be divided up between participants and staff and all final details will be
reviewed. Our group will depart for our adventure on Saturday morning right
after breakfast. Please do not be late for the meeting on Friday night.
Participants’ vehicles will be used to transport participants, food and equipment
to the trailhead. The drive will take approximately 2 hours, and the forestry road,
though rough, is drivable by all but the lowest ground clearance vehicles (see
below for more information on driving on forestry roads). BC Parks recommends
visitors protect their vehicle with chicken wire to deter porcupines from chewing
on brake-lines and tires. Since your car will be parked in an unattended public
area for a few days, do not plan to leave any valuables in it.

The most convenient airport for Radium is the Calgary International Airport.
Drive west from Calgary on the Trans-Canada Highway (#1) through Banff to
the Radium exit, labeled “Castle Junction” or “Highway 93 South”. Follow
Highway 93 South through Kootenay National Park to Radium Hot Springs (3
hours from Calgary). Brewster Bus Lines (403-762-6767) offers a direct bus from
the Airport to Canmore/Banff/Lake Louise with connections to Golden and
Radium via Greyhound Bus Lines (1-800-661-8747). The Banff Airporter at the
Calgary Airport services Canmore and Banff, call toll free 1-888-449-2901, local
(403) 762-3330 www.banffairporter.com

Trips may not always run exactly according to schedule for reasons beyond our
control (weather, wildlife, Parks regulations, etc). For this reason, we
recommend that you do not book any scheduled travel (such as airplane flights)
within a day or two of the last scheduled day of your camp.

The equipment list should be carefully reviewed when packing for this week.
Please do not hesitate to contact camp staff if you have any questions at all about
your gear - they want to be sure that you have all the right gear but that you
don't bring too much!

Everyone will carry a portion of the first aid kits, climbing gear, supplies, etc.
during the days while we are climbing. This is in addition to your own food and
other personal items. Please leave room in your pack for 4 or 5 kg (8-10 lbs) of
group food and gear. Porters will help carry group food and gear to the base
camp, however your pack going in and out of the camp will weigh
approximately 18-21 kg (40-45 lbs). Please pack your personal gear accordingly,
and ensure your pack is of adequate size.
The weather in the Purcells, although generally good at this time of year, could
be variable and subject to rapid change. Participants should be prepared for all
types of climatic conditions (hot sun, rain, snow, etc.)

Check that all your equipment is in good working order and fits properly prior
to arriving at camp. If you have borrowed or rented gear it is particularly
important to invest some time making sure that it is right for you. Be sure you
understand how your equipment works. Broken or unsuitable equipment or
blisters can potentially ruin your trip of a lifetime! If you are buying new boots
before the trip, you should do some day hiking in them in advance to break them
in. Please also bring a repair kit that is specific to your gear.

If you require rental equipment, Gear Up (On Highway 1A in Canmore, Alberta)
offers a 25% discount on rental gear and a 10% discount on retail climbing gear
to Alpine Club of Canada Mountain Adventure participants. For further
information and equipment reservations call (403) 678-1636 between 9:00 a.m.
and 5:00 p.m. MT. Gravity Gear in Jasper offers mountaineering equipment
rentals and sales. Contact them at 1-888-852-3155 or email:
info@gravitygearjasper.com. In Edmonton, the Mountain Equipment Co-op (780)
488-6614 rents gear and accessories, and applies some rental cost toward
purchase. The Calgary MEC store does the same. Their phone number is (403)
269-2420. Also in Calgary, the Campus Outdoor Centre at the University of
Calgary has rental equipment. Their phone number is (403) 220-5038.

Recommended Reading

Map Sheets
1:50,000   82K/7 Duncan Lake
           82K/8 Toby Creek
           82K/9 Radium Hot Springs

Climber’s Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia - South (1977) by Robert
Kruszyna and William Lowell Putnam (out of print)
Website: www.bivouac.com

General Interest
Place Names of the Canadian Alps, Boles, Laurilla & Putnam
Freedom of the Hills, The Mountaineers

Selected books and maps can be purchased from the ACC National Office, Box
8040, Canmore, AB T1W 2T8. Please contact us at (403) 678-3200, Ext. 1, check
our website at www.AlpineClubofCanada.ca or email
info@AlpineClubofCanada.ca for further details.

Insurance Options
If you do not have Canadian medical insurance, or if your provincial insurance is
insufficient, we recommend purchasing insurance through Travel Underwriters.
They sell a variety of insurance policies, including medical (annual and single
trip) and insurance for visitors to Canada. To find out more about their insurance
options, visit the Travel Underwriters website at www.travelunderwriters.com
or call them direct at 1-800-663-5389.

Be sure to quote reference #ALP762, as the ACC will benefit financially
whenever this code is used.

Environmental Considerations
The ACC is proud to have earned the right to display the UIAA Environment
Label. The UIAA is the world’s recognized international mountaineering and
climbing federation, with over 2.5 million members in 68 countries. The ACC’s
Mountain Adventures are conducted with great consideration for the
environment, and we are thrilled to be recognized for the care we take. If you
would like to learn more about the Environment Label, visit www.uiaa.ch, and
select “Labels”.

Parks Canada has asked us to pass a message to you, the Mountain Adventure
participant. When you are on an ACC camp (or any time you are near wildlife),
wildlife viewing and safety procedures should be based upon the guidelines
presented in Parks Canada brochure “Keep the Wild in Wildlife”. The brochure
describes appropriate behaviour when encountering habituated wildlife, safe
distances for viewing and photographing wildlife, avoiding encounters and
limiting attractants while traveling in the backcountry, and specific precautions
for bears, elk and cougars. This brochure can be found on the Parks Canada
website (http://www.pc.gc.ca/docs/pc/guide/nature/nature01_e.asp).
2006 Jumbo Glacier Climbing Camp
Equipment List

Clothing (please note, although this is a summer trip, winter conditions may
be encountered)
    Full shank mountaineering boots - sturdy, supportive, designed for rock
      and snow and suitable for attachment of crampons. Leather boots
    Heavy wool or synthetic socks (2-3 pairs)
    Thin liner socks (2-3 pairs)
    Synthetic underwear top and bottoms (wicking layer)
    Fleece or other synthetic jacket/sweater (insulation layer)
    Climbing pants (e.g. Schoeller, wool, or fleece)
    Gore-Tex jacket (or equivalent, i.e. waterproof/breathable outer shell w/ hood)
    Wind and waterproof shell pants (full zip)
    Gaiters (knee height) that fit over your boots
    Warm mitts or gloves with Gore-Tex shells
    Thin glove liners
    Sun hat (with optional neck and ear protection)
    Bandana
    Toque (warm hat) or balaclava (suitable for under helmet)
    Clothing and footwear for around camp - lightweight

Personal Equipment
    Overnight pack - waterproof, durable, and large enough to carry a share
      of food and group equipment in addition to personal gear (60-80 liters).
    Sleeping bag (+5°C to -10°C / 40°F to 14°F, depending on your comfort
    Mattress – Therm-a-Rest, Evazote, etc. (compact and lightweight)
    Headlamp with spare batteries and bulb
    Water bottle(s) - 1 litre, wide mouth, plastic with tight lid
    Lexan Cup, bowl, spoon
    Sandwich box, or other container for lunches
    Lighter or matches
    Waterproof bags for clothing and food
    Small personal first aid kit - Band-Aids, Moleskin, medications, tape, etc.
    Personal toilet kit (w/ towel)
    Sun screen and lip protection with high SPF (greater than 20)
    Insect repellant
    Sunglasses w/ good UV protection
    Repair kit (extra parts and tools that are specific to your gear)
    Pocketknife (Swiss Army type)
    Toilet paper – a small personal amount for day trips
    Large plastic bag to line pack

Climbing Equipment
    Climbing harness
    Crampons with front-points (mountaineering-style, w/ anti-snow-
     collecting sole plates) (please fit to boots prior to trip)
    Ice axe - approximately 60 - 70 cm. (27”) length, with wrist loop
    Climbing helmet
    Two locking carabiners - at least one Münter (pear shape)
    Two identical non-locking carabiners
    One 3-metre length (10’) nylon webbing, 1” thickness
    One Prusik cord - 5 metres (16’) long, 7 mm diameter
    One Prusik cord – 1.5 metres (5’) long, 7 mm diameter

Optional Equipment
   Collapsible trekking/ski poles for hiking
   Lightweight day pack
   Shorts / T-shirt
   Earplugs (good for sharing a tent with a snoring tentmate)
   Camera and film
   Maps and compass / altimeter / GPS
   Reading material/journal/pencil
   Belay/rappel device
   Ice screw (if you have one)
   Down jacket or vest
   Umbrella
   Boot waterproofing
   Personal amount of liquor / treats, if desired

   The ACC will supply all group gear including ropes, technical climbing
equipment, 1st aid, group repair kit, fuel, etc. Tents, cooking utensils and other
              camp needs will also be the Club’s responsibility.

Some notes on equipment:
No spare equipment or replacement parts (that we do not carry ourselves) will
be available on the trip, so be sure you arrive properly equipped with all items
adjusted, sized and in very good condition. Shortages and inadequate gear may
limit your enjoyment of the experience, rule out your participation in some
activities, or impose an unnecessary burden on other participants. It is highly
advisable that all equipment (particularly new, borrowed or unfamiliar gear) is
checked out extensively before the camp on at least one other trip.
The logging road you will be driving on is suitable for all but the sportiest of
two-wheel drive vehicles. You will be in convoy with others going to the camp,
but you need to make sure that you have appropriate emergency supplies for
your vehicle.

Spare tire with air pressure recently checked. Spare tire should be of normal size
(not the little temporary spare)
Car jack - ensure it works properly
Tire wrench - ensure it fits your tire nuts
Spare oil and water
Chemical tire filler - these cans can be purchased at most gas stations
Chicken wire - to wrap around your car while you are in camp. Porcupines are
known to chew on brake lines!

Forest Roads are subject to continuous changes due to weather, surfacing
materials, traffic volume and traffic flow. All users are responsible for the safe
operation of their vehicles based upon the vehicle condition, equipment and
driver ability. All camp participants and staff will travel in a convoy going to the
staging area. The following are guidelines for drivers:

   If you own a two way VHF radio, bring it along, as it may come in handy on
    the road. ACC staff will be leading and following the convoy, and will be
    equipped with radios. The small, personal short-range radios that have
    recently become popular are also useful for this purpose.

   All vehicles are to be operated and equipped for the appropriate road
    conditions (see Vehicle Safety Equipment under Equipment List above).

   Kilometer signs and road names will be used to identify turn-offs and
    meeting places.

   Forestry crew vehicles (including logging trucks) will normally have right of
    way. Common sense must apply; crew vehicles will not assume they have
    safe passage.

   Headlights must be turned on while traveling on Forestry roads.

   When the road is busy, traffic should bunch up but maintain safe sight
    distance out of the blowing dust of the lead vehicle. This will help to reduce
    radio traffic.
 Be extremely cautious if you need to pass another vehicle. Dust, hills and
   bends in the road are hazards which make passing difficult and dangerous.

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