VIEWS: 3 PAGES: 4 POSTED ON: 7/28/2012
WomensHealthMag.com/Acne The 30-Day Guide to Flawless Skin By Karina Giglio Try any (or all!) of these expert tips and tricks to get the clear, radiant skin you’ve always wanted. Use this calendar as a guide, and then discover how each tip will perfect your complexion. SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY WEEK 1 Slather on the Clean your Munch on Start using Sanitize your Put your skin Drop dairy from sunscreen makeup mixed nuts serum smartphone stash in proper your diet (even brushes order that little bit in your latte) WEEK 2 Start using Hit the sack Exfoliate for Give your skin Don’t neglect Strip off your Running low on retinol early smaller-looking a sip of merlot your neck and makeup before sleep? Pick up pores chest bed some soy milk WEEK 3 Roll away your Stay out of hot Don’t wait to Be extra Snack on Exfoliate… Slip on your puffy eyes this water moisturize gentle when watermelon without sunglasses morning defuzzing your scrubbing face WEEK 4 Drink an extra Pour yourself Be patient with Put down the Don’t forget Eat your Keep your glass of water a bowl of your products French fries your veggies broccoli hands off your Cheerios for face breakfast WEEK 5 Whip up a Make your berry tasty sunscreen work treat for your harder for you skin 1 The 30-Day Guide to Flawless Skin WomensHealthMag.com/Acne your phone (and face) bacteria-free, wipe it down with an anti- We know, we know—you’ve heard it a million times, but wear- bacterial wipe like Clorox Disinfecting Wipes a few times a day. 1. Slather on the sunscreen. ing sunscreen is the single easiest way to look younger for life. “Ninety percent of wrinkles are from sun exposure,” says Day. “It’s so much easier to prevent the damage than it is to fix it after- The sequence in which you apply your products could be even 6. Put your skin stash in proper order. wards.” That means no slacking during winter months either, more important than the products themselves. Reach for those when rays are just as strong and can reflect off of buildings and with the most active ingredients as soon as you wash and pat skin sidewalks. Look for a formula that offers broad-spectrum protec- dry. “These are the most powerful, so you want them to come tion to guard against UVA rays (the ones that cause premature into direct contact with your skin,” says Syed Amiry, a dermatolo- aging) and UVB rays (the main culprit when it comes to skin can- gist practicing in Reston, Virginia. If you’re using more than one cer). Try Philosophy Shelter Broad Spectrum Sunscreen in SPF30. active product (like an antioxidant serum and Retin-A), start with the thinner one. “Anything that’s water soluble should go first, followed by the product that’s thicker and creamier. If you do it in A British study found that 72% of women never wash their reverse, the heavier cream will block the ingredients of the lighter 2. Clean your makeup brushes. brushes or sponges, even though they harbor dirt and bacteria one from penetrating the skin, so they won’t have any impact.” If which can cause breakouts. “You should wash loose powder you need moisturizer, it’s next up in line, followed up by—what brushes every two to three weeks, and those used to apply foun- else?—sunscreen each morning. dation once a week,” says Jessica Wu, an LA-based dermatologist and author of Feed Your Face. Mix a couple of drops of gentle facial cleanser or shampoo and lukewarm water in a cup, swish 7. Drop dairy from your diet (even that little bit in your brushes around, rinse with lukewarm water, pat dry, and “Dairy products—even those that are organic—contain cow hor- your latte). lay flat to air dry. mones that stimulate your oil glands and your pores, leading to acne,” explains Wu. Beware of hidden dairy in foods like salad dressing, protein bars, and shakes. And if you have to go there, stick to skim. Brazil nuts are rich in selenium, which increases skin elasticity “The hormones are concentrated in the fat, so it’s your best option.” 3. Munch on mixed nuts. and may decrease skin cancer, according to recent studies. Throw in walnuts—which are loaded with omega-3 fatty acids—to lower inflammation and put the brakes on breakouts, says Molly “Everyone should use retinol,” says New York dermatologist Doris 8. Start using retinol. Morgan, Board Certified Sports Specialist Dietitian and author of Day. “It has decades of clinical data to support its efficacy, helps The Skinny Rules. Finally, add some macadamias. “They’re full of skin cell turnover, and boosts collagen production to keep skin high quality oils and fatty acids that aid in skin repair and rejuve- firm and youthful.” Most dermatologists agree that if you’re only nation” says integrative practitioner Isaac Eliaz. Aim for a handful going to use one anti-aging product, prescription Retin-A (and even of each daily to reap their pore-perfecting benefits. over-the-counter versions like RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Daily Moisturizer SPF 30 or Olay Pro-X Deep Wrinkle Treatment) is the magic bullet, and can even reverse abnormal and cancerous “It’s much more concentrated than cream or lotion, so you tend to growth, among other forms of sun damage. “It has great anti- 4. Start using serum. only need a small amount daily to see results,” says Fran Cook- inflammatory effects, which is why it’s as effective at treating acne Bolden, Director of New York’s Skin Specialty Dermatology. Look as it is at treating wrinkles and other signs of aging,” adds Amiry. for one with antioxidants, the skin’s major defense against free radicals and stress, and pentapeptides, which are a must-have when it comes to boosting collagen, the support structure that We know, you’ve heard it all before, but it’s called beauty sleep for 9. Hit the sack early. gives skin a firm, youthful appearance. Don’t worry about spend- a reason. “Sleep deprivation lowers circulation, which is why you ing a fortune on the ingredients; one of Cook-Bolden’s favorites look pale and washed out if you only get a few hours,” says Amy is Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Serum, a sheer formula whose Wechsler, one of only two U.S. physicians board-certified in both small molecules can dive deep into pores. For best results, apply dermatology and psychiatry. It’s also the best time to rejuvenate to freshly washed skin; follow with sunscreen or moisturizer to your skin. “Your body’s cellular renewal team has the night shift, lock in hydration. so this is when you want to equip your skin with as many nutri- ents and hydrating ingredients it needs to do a fine job,” she says. According to a Stanford University study, that iPhone you can’t 5. Sanitize your smartphone. keep your hands off of can get more germ-infested than a toilet It’s amazing how something so tiny can feel so huge, but enlarged 10. Exfoliate for smaller-looking pores. in a subway bathroom. In fact, the glass touchscreens on mobile pores are one of the most common beauty complaints. “Pores devices are so good at spreading viruses that sharing them may appear larger when they’re filled with dirt, oil, dead skin cells, and be almost as bad as sneezing in someone’s face. Here’s a scary keratin, a protein that lives on the surface of skin,” explains Amiry. thought: All those germs land right on your cheek and jawline “Remove those plugs, and they seem to shrink.” To clear out the every time you chat away, causing pimples and irritation. To keep gunk, start exfoliating regularly with daily applications of salicylic 2 The 30-Day Guide to Flawless Skin WomensHealthMag.com/Acne and glycolic acid, like those in Murad Exfoliating Acne Treatment Anti-Puff Eye Roller, which manually pushes out fluid. To reduce Gel. Then add in microdermabrasions (like Physicians Formula dark shadows, use your ring finger to lightly tap Origins GinZing Derm@Home Mineral Microdermabrasion System) once or twice Eye Cream, which contains caffeine, onto the delicate area. a week to clear the dead surface cells. To keep pores from getting “Caffeine constricts vessels to minimize leaking, which causes the even bigger as you age, practice safe sun. “Sun damage breaks darkening, while titanium dioxide, mica, and iron oxides reflect down collagen, which can affect pore size as well.” light away to brighten.” Resveratrol, a powerful antioxidant and polyphenol found in red A steamy shower may feel great, but it’s one of the worst things 11. Give your skin a sip of merlot. 16. Stay out of hot water. grape skins, has been found to prevent the lines, wrinkles, and you can do for your skin. Not only does the heat strip essential sagging caused by environmental skin saboteurs like smog and oils, but it creates a mild burn. Blood vessels respond by dilat- second-hand smoke. “In many preparations, it’s an even more ing in an effort to cool the skin, causing flushing and ruddiness. powerful antioxidant than vitamin C, and studies show it creates “When you’re in your twenties, you can take a hot shower, be red mild-to-moderate skin tightening for a firmer look,” says board & swollen and recover in an hour, but in your thirties, it may take certified dermatologist and research scientist Erin Gilbert. Apply 2 hours,” says Alexiades-Armenakas. “By your forties, your skin a small pump of B. Kamins C-Resveratrol Serum each night to just doesn’t have the ability to shrink back to its original state so plump up lines and smooth skin texture. you stay ruddy all the time.” Most of us are guilty of stopping our skincare routine as soon as we Most creams and lotions have key ingredients that create a pro- 12. Don’t neglect your neck and chest. 17. Don’t wait to moisturize. hit our chin. And our neglected neck and chest take vengeance by tective barrier on the surface of the skin to lock in moisture, but wrinkling, sagging, and displaying dark spots that beg to be hidden because skin cools itself by evaporating water, you only have a few by a turtleneck. “The skin on these areas is thinner, and doesn’t minutes before that hydration is gone forever. Slather on a mois- have a strong blood supply, so it doesn’t heal well,” explains Amiry. turizer with dimethicone, a form of silicone, while your face is still “Plus it’s an area that we often forget to protect with sunscreen.” damp. Alexiades-Armenakas’ research shows that it locks in mois- Use the same products as you would on your face, but start lightly ture for up to 24 hours, plumping and improving the appearance of (every other day) when applying active ingredients like retinols or fine lines as skin drinks up the moisture (like the difference between acids since they may cause some initial irritation. a raisin and a grape). Try NIA24 Skin Strengthening Complex. Leaving makeup and dirt on skin doesn’t just clog pores; it can Waxing and tweezing can cause scarring or spots, especially for 13. Strip off your makeup before bed. 18. Be extra gentle when defuzzing your face. cause excessive dryness and even skin dandruff. “Most makeup women with darker skin. Prep your skin before hair removal contains a sugar-type molecule that can grow yeast overnight,” by washing the area with an antibacterial wash, suggests Cook- says Macrene Alexiades-Armenakas, assistant clinical professor of Bolden. And to avoid discoloration, make sure to have an aftercare dermatology at Yale School of Medicine. Don’t forget to thoroughly plan that includes anti-inflammatory ingredients to quickly calm remove eye makeup too. “It can lead to bumpy rashes around skin and help it heal. Cook-Bolden recommends a dab of Avène the eyes or small white bumps called milia cysts,” says Wu, who Cicalfate Restorative Cream immediately after hair removal, and loves Neutrogena Oil Free Eye Makeup Remover, a gentle, oil-free for a few days afterward. “Investing in this type of product will cleanser that even melts away waterproof liner and mascara. save you money in the long run since preventing discoloration costs a lot less than trying to get rid of it.” Pick up some soy milk. Wu keeps a carton in her fridge at all 14. Running low on sleep? times to “fake a good night’s sleep.” The natural anti-inflammatory Adding a lycopene-rich food, such as this juicy pink treat, “helps 19. Snack on watermelon. reduces swelling while soy proteins hydrate skin to soften the reduce damage and redness caused from sun exposure, prevents look of crow’s feet. The cold temperature helps shrink swelling future wrinkling and possibly even lowers skin cancer risk,” and constricts veins to make eyes look less bloodshot. To make says Elizabeth Somer, nutritionist and author of Eat Your Way soothing, redness-busting compresses, pour a small amount of to Sexy. Aim for one cup each day by tossing it in salads, salsas, soy milk in a bowl, dunk two cotton balls, and squeeze out the and smoothies. Or try her recipe for refreshing ice cubes: Purée excess. Then hold the cotton balls over your eyes (or any other watermelon, sweeten with concentrated apple juice, pour into an area where you have red or irritated skin) for five minutes. ice tray, and freeze. Then add cubes to water or club soda for a refreshing, skin-saving mocktail. “Fluid fills up under our eyes each night because we’re lying 15. Roll away your puffy eyes this morning. down,” says dermatological surgeon Anne Chapas. Start by sleep- “Over time, the natural enzymes in your skin work less effec- 20. Exfoliate… without scrubbing. ing on two pillows to elevate the face. In the morning, massage tively at removing dead skin cells, so they hang on and prevent away the excess fluid with the Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew your skin from reflecting light,” says Wechsler. The result? You 3 The 30-Day Guide to Flawless Skin WomensHealthMag.com/Acne look ashy and gray. Speed up your skin’s cellular turnover and smooth its surface with alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) like glycolic Look for an anti-aging cream that has plant-derived antioxidants 26. Don’t forget your veggies. or lactic acid. But beware: Although lots of products include such as mushroom or soy. Data from Alexiades-Armenakas’ lab AHAs, the concentration is often too low to do much. “Look at the shows that the level of antioxidant-free radical scavenging (i.e. the label to see how much it contains and pick one that’s around 8%. little warriors that fight off all of the bad stuff that causes pre- Anything more is too much.” Expect some initial stinging at first; it mature aging) with plant-derived antioxidants is off the charts. should subside as your skin gets used to it. “Plants have anti-cancer properties when we eat them, which means they survive the digestive process,” she says. “Think of what that that means for their long-lasting powerful benefits As if you need another reason to buy a new pair of sunglasses, when applied directly to the skin.” Try Dr. Andrew Weil for Origins 21. Slip on your sunglasses. turns out they provide more protection against undereye wrin- Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Advanced Face Serum. kling and aging than sunscreen. “While your eyes are equipped to handle sunlight, the area around them is comprised of the thin- nest skin, where most of the signs of aging are,” says Amiry. “Every Move over, oranges. “Just a half cup of raw broccoli is loaded 27. Eat your broccoli. time you squint from bright light, you’re creating lines from that with 65 percent of your daily value of vitamin C,” says Morgan. repeat movement.” To keep the wrinkles away, choose a pair of Research shows that vitamin C-rich foods not only mop up the polarized glasses that’s wide enough to fully cover the eye area. free radicals that cause wrinkles and sagging, but can help remove the DNA damage they form. While you’re reaping the wound- healing and skin-protecting benefits of eating more vitamin C, try “Water helps clear the toxins that cause inflammation and blem- smoothing some on your skin as well. In one study, women who 22. Drink an extra glass of water. ishes,” explains Eliaz. “It also assists in transporting nutrients and treated sun-damaged skin with a vitamin C cream for 6 months oxygen to skin cells, and preventing dehydration, which can cause saw significant improvement in fine lines and discoloration. premature aging.” It can even make skin appear fuller since the hyaluronic acid that naturally exists in skin will pull in and hold the water for a wrinkle-plumping effect, according to Day. Both “Picking—even lightly—can permanently damage skin,” says 28. Keep your hands off your face. recommend at least 8 glasses of water each day, more if you’re Amiry. “I actually have patients whose skin cleared up with no active or live in a warm climate. To add a little flavor, try a skin- medications, just because they stopped touching it.” Every time soothing tea like chamomile or mint. you press against a pimple, it causes inflammation and distress to the skin. At the same time, bacteria is pushed deep inside the pore, and the oil glands burst, causing even more trauma. The If your skin has a case of the blahs, a lack of zinc may be to blame. result? More acne, plus discoloration and scarring. If you’re really 23. Pour yourself a bowl of Cheerios for breakfast. “People who are trying to lose weight or eating a lot of processed hooked on popping, leave it to the pros and schedule regular foods might not be getting enough zinc to keep their skin glow- monthly extractions with an aesthetician who knows how to do ing,” says Wechsler. And since zinc helps repair damaged tissues them safely and gently. and heal wounds, it also helps clear acne and other irritating skin conditions. A cup of Cheerios has 25 percent of the daily recom- mended value of the powerhouse nutrient, which will get you well A powerful (cheap!) anti-aging potion is lurking right in your 29. Whip up a berry tasty treat for your skin. on your way to a clear complexion. fridge. Raspberries are loaded with ellagic acid, an antioxidant that research shows can prevent wrinkles when applied to the skin. “It protects the collagen that keeps skin plump and beauti- We’re all in a hurry to see results, but putting on the brakes can ful from being worn down by the sun,” says Wu. Add in honey, a 24. Be patient with your products. ensure that the results you get are positive. When you’re starting natural humectant that holds water against the skin for maximum a new product, use it every other day, and never try a few new moisture, and you’ve got a recipe for gorgeous, dewey skin. Mash buys at once. “Even if you just got a new skincare system, intro- up a handful of raspberries with a spoonful of honey, and apply duce one product every three to four days at the least,” says Cook- the mask to clean skin for 15-20 minutes. Rinse and pat dry. Bolden. “You’ll rarely experience dryness, irritation, and burning. And if you do, you’ll know right away who the culprit is.” Give any new potion at least 12 weeks (and up to 6 months) to see if it’s Antioxidants like vitamin C offer an extra layer of protection again 30. Make your sunscreen work harder for you. really improving your skin before calling it quits. environmental damage and toxins, diverting them before they can damage your cells. “That’s why applying them as part of your morning routine boosts the efficacy of your sunscreen,” explains Research shows that a diet high in fats and carbohydrates causes Amiry. “It’s important to know that sunscreens are chemicals that 25. Put down the French fries. more wrinkles. “Creamy cheeses and red meats are actually you are applying to your skin and they absorb into your body. So, known as aging fats because of what they do to our skin,” says use a lighter sunscreen daily such as SPF 15 along with vitamin Wechsler. To keep your cells revved up and rejuvenated, stick to C and a higher sunscreen (about 30) every two hours if you are lean protein like fish, white meat poultry, tofu, beans, and lentils. outdoors for a long period of time.” 4
"The Day Guide to Flawless Skin"