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The New Rules of Sunscreen

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									     MIND & BODY



                 The New Rules                                                                               BEST FULL-BODY SUNSCREENS


                  of Sunscreen
           FORGET ALL THE MISLEADING BS YOU’VE HEARD ABOUT
       SUNSCREEN. HERE’S ALL HERE’S ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW TO FIND PRODUCTS
                        THAT REALLY WORK.            by   MELAINA JUNTTI

     EVERY YEAR, you hear some-
                                                                                                            Sun Bum Pro Line          Beyond Coastal Active
     thing different about sunscreen — it's                                                               sunscreen SPF 50 +            Sunscreen SPF 30 +
     essential, it's toxic, they're all the                                                                A mineral block (see       This avobenzone-based
                                                                                                            Mineral vd. Chemi-           sunscreen contains
     same, SPF values are nothing but                                                                                                  vitamins C and E, both
                                                                                                          cal on the next page)
     hype. We decided to cut through the                                                                 enriched with vitamin E,       of which boost skin’s
     noise and go to the experts. First, it                                                               this stays put through       UV protection. It’s also
                                                                                                          rigorous water sports.        water-resistant, stays
     pays to know what you're buying —                                                                   we tested it swimming,         on skin, and includes
     not all sunscreens are created equal,                                                                and it was still on after    alpha lipoic acid, yerba
     and some are worthless. "It's fine to                                                               30 minutes of flip-turns         help nourish skin.
                                                                                                                 in the pool          $10; beyondcoastal.com
     pick up any sunscreen off the shelf if                                                               $18; trustthebum.com
     you don't care about sun safety,
     premature aging, the health of your
     skin, or the environment," says Dr.
     Robert Friedman, a dermatologist at
     NYU's Langone Medical Center. "But
     if you care about any of these things
     or you have sensitive skin, you need
     to be careful about what you use."
     How to do that? Follow these rules to
     get an effective, safe sunscreen:
                                                                                                        Jāsön Pure Natural Sun       Eshu Moisturizing
     1.Always buy broad spectrum. Products             UV rays. Preliminary research also suggests it          Sport SPF 45         Sunscreen SPF 30+
                                                                                                        Natural brand Jāsön has      A thin-but-potent lo-
     labeled broad spectrum block UVA rays             may lower sperm count and raise cancer risk.     improved its sunscreens tion, Rshu uses avoben-
     —the type that cause wrinkles and skin            Instead, look for sunscreens with avobenzone,     from thick and chalky to  zone and is superlight
     cancer — as well as UVB, which can also           which works like oxybenzone but doesn't pose      spreadable and sports-   for a “barely there” feel.
     cause cancer and burning. Those that aren't       known health concerns.                              ready. This mineral-     It spreads easily, and
                                                                                                           chemical combo has     mint, and citrus give it a
     broad spectrum cannot claim to protect                                                                 skin-protecting acai  clean, fresh smell. Don’t
     against skin cancer or early aging.             5.Avoid parabens. Synthetic preserva-                  extract, and lasted   use if sysnthetic scents
                                                     tives that disrupt hormones and may stimu-              through a sweaty           irritate your skin.
     2.There's no such thing as waterproof           late cancerous tumors, parabens are found                 two-hour hike.          $30; eshu.com.au
                                                                                                          $10; jason-natural.com
     or sweatproof. It's technically impossible      in most commercial sunscreens, as well as



                                                                                                                                                                  GROOMING BY LAUREN GOTT ARMTMIX CREATIVE, PRODUCTS: MICHAEL PIRROCCO
     for a sunscreen to be waterproof or sweat-      hundreds of other products like antiperspi-.
     proof, says the FDA. Instead, sun-                          rant, shampoo, and face wash.
     screens can be water-resistant,                             The most common types — meth-
                                              SUN SAFETY
     but only if they retain their origi-                        ylparaben, propylparaben, and
     nal SPF (Sun Protection Factor)                             butylparaben — usually appear
     after 40 minutes in water.                      last on ingredient lists, so a quick scan can
                                                     tell you whether to pass on a product. Also
     3.If it says SPE 70, it's marketing hype. SPF   avoid vitamin A, sometimes called retinyl
     measures the percentage of UVB rays             pahnitate, because it breaks down into toxic
     blocked: SPF 15 blocks 93 percent of rays,      free radicals when exposed to UV, causing
     SPF 30 blocks 97 percent, and SPF 50 blocks     skin to age and increasing cancer risk.
                                                                                                         Banana Boat Natural          Thinksport Livestrong
     98 percent. Anything higher adds little extra                                                      Reflect Lotion SPF 50+         Sunscreens SPF 50+
     protection, which is why the FDA is consider-      Sadly, few of the mass-market brands meet       This all-mineral formula        Thinksport’s heavy-
     ing banning labels over SPF 50 from store        these criteria. We analyzed the labels of           may be the only sun-          duty mineral formula
     shelves. Dermatologists recommend an SPF                                                           screen you can find at a      spreads evenly without
                                                      hundreds of full-body and daily facial             generic pharmacy that           clumping and has
     between 30 and 50 for optimal protection.        sunscreens and tossed out most because they        meets all five rules. It’s      jojoba, olive, and
                                                      didn't obey the five rules above. We then           thick, doesn’t spread        sunflower oils to repel
     4.Beware of oxybenzone. This chemical is an      tested the remaining lot while swimming,             easily, and leaves a       sweat and water. It has
     active ingredient in most commercial                                                                faint white pallor, but it   no chemicals, which are
                                                      running, hiking, and lying on lounge chairs,      offers awesome broad-          more easily absorbed
     sunscreens, but it irritates skin and creates    or, for the facial sunscreens, while at work.       spectrum protection.          when you exercise.
     cell-damaging free radicals when exposed to      See right for our top picks in both categories.    $11; bananaboat.com            $16; thinksport.com




     photograph by DONNA TROPE                            MENS’S JOURNAL      54 JULY 2012
www.newyorkcenterforplasticsurgery.com
                   Everyday SPF Moisturizers
                  AT T H E O F F I C E A L L D A Y ? Y O U S T I L L N E E D A D A I LY F A C I A L S P F .


    YOU WEAR SUNSCREEN whenever you go to
    the beach, play golf, or take a long hike or run, but
    what about before you go to work or run errands                     BEST DAILY FACE MOISTURIZERS
    on the weekend? "Men buy sunscreen in the
    summer, when they can relate to the dangers of
    skin cancer and don't want to burn," says Ian
    Ginsberg, pharmacist and owner of C.O. Bigelow
    in New York. "But they're definitely not as
    concerned with sun damage and photo-aging on a
    daily basis." And that's a problem: If you're not
    wearing sunscreen daily on your face — where                                                                                       WHAT ABOUT SPRAY-ON
    most skin cancer occurs — you increase your
    chances of developing the disease by 95 percent,                                                                                   SUNSCREENS?
    while boosting your risk of wrinkles. brown spots,             Dermalogica Pure              L'Occitane Verdon Outdoor             Spray-on sunscreens prevent
    and leathery skin, says Dr. Robert Guida, a New                   Light SPF 30                    Moisturizer SPF 30               your hands from getting full
    York-based dermatologic surgeon.                            This light, mineral-based         A chemical-mineral combo,            of lotion, but dermatologists
        For these reasons, "guys should use a daily             moisturizer rubs in com-        this cream has orange extract,         saythey scatter too wide and
                                                                pletely clear but can feel         which is rich in vitamin C,         evaporate before glom-
    moisturizer with SPF 15 or greater 365 days a              grainy. It contains peptides     and tocopherol, a natural form
    year, even when not in direct sunlight," says Dr.         — amino acids that promote           of vitamin E. It's thick and        ming onto skin. "Watch a
    Guida. Yes, you need a daily sunscreen even if the        skin-firming collagen — and       doesn't rub on clear, but it will      guy spray himself — he'll be
    only sun you see is through a car window —stud-             the antioxidant green tea        be clear after your skin has a        engulfed in a cloud of
    ies show that Americans develop skin cancer                 extract with a mild scent.             minute to absorb it.            sunscreen, most of which
                                                                 $60; dermalogica.com               $32, usa.loccitane.com             never actually touches his
    more frequently on the left side of their faces,
    while Brits develop it more often on the right.                                                                                    body," says Dr. John E. Wolf
    And wearing sunscreen is just as important in the                                                                                  Jr., a dermatologist at Baylor
    winter, when the sun is closer to the Earth and its                                                                                College of Medicine. Plus,
    rays are stronger, and on overcast days, when up                                                                                   many sprays are aerosol, and
    to 80 percent of radiation passes through clouds.                                                                                  the FDA is still examining
      How to protect yourself? Wear a daily moistur-                                                                                   whether that poses any
    izer made specifically for the face that contains a                                                                                health risks such as asthma.
    broad-spectrum sunscreen. Dermatologists                                                                                           Save sprays for targeted
    recommend SPF 30, but most mainstream                                                                                              areas like bald spots or along
    moisturizers are SPF 15. You can find 30, but                Elena Rubin Carpe Diem         Jack Black Double-Duty                 your hairline, where lotion
    you'll pay more, as moisturizers over 15 require            SPF 28 Protecting Lotion       Face Moisturizer SPF 20                 can gunk up, says Dr. Mamie
                                                                Carpe Diem has no smell,       Milky-thin, with a chemical             Nussbaum, of the Melanoma
    quality ingredients to keep them from feeling               no chemicals, and doesn't       SPF, this cream spreads
    grainy. "Quality is dictated by how much particle                                                                                  Research Alliance. Look for
                                                                   leave a chalky pallor,        easily and gives skin a
    pulverization happens in the lab, so you have to              although it takes a few       healthy glow. It also has              a nonaerosol
    pay more for better products," explains Elena              seconds to rub in. It also has sea parsley, a rich source of            pump like KINeSYS
    Rubin, a skin-care formulator in Manhattan. Also            squalane, an olive-derived     vitamin C, and blue algae               Alcohol-Free Spray
                                                               hydrating oil, and glycerin, a  extract, which contains the             Sunscreen SPF 30 ($19;
    look for products with vitamins C and E or other                  natural lubricant.          antioxidant vitamin E.
    antioxidants, which help skin recover from UV                                                                                      kinesys.com), which is also
                                                                    $49; elenarubin.com              $27; getjackblack.com
    rays and sun damage.                                                                                                               sweat-resistant.




                                               MINERAL VERSUS CHEMICAL: WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE?
            BEST LIP BALM                      Chemical sunscreens rely on
                                               synthetic chemicals, or filters, to
                                                                                          rather than sinking into it, but
                                                                                          since they create a physical
                                                                                                                                    don't contain possibly harmful
                                                                                                                                    filters, they can be difficult
     Your lips are just as prone to skin
     cancer as the rest of your face, so       absorb rays. These filters soak into       barrier, they can leave a white           to spread and look white on skin.
      "apply a broad-spectrum lip balm         skin and can cause irritation and          residue or cake on skin. Some             There is also concern that mineral
     that's at least SPF 15 every morn-
      ing, and reapply religiously," says      allergies. Some, like oxybenzone,          products minimize these effects           nanoparticles may sink into skin,
     Dr. John E. Wolf Jr., a dermatolo-        have been linked to hormone                by using extremely small                  too, causing unknown health
     gist at Baylor College of Medicine.                                                  particles of minerals, known as           effects, but most brands don't
       C.O. Bigelow Mentha Lip Balm            disruption and cancer. Mineral
            Stick-No-Shine SPF I5              sun¬screens use natural ingredi-           nanoparticles. Which is best for          specify whether they contain
         One of the few commercial lip         ents like zinc oxide and titanium          you is a matter of personal               nanoparticles. For the best mineral
        balms without oxybenzone, this                                                                                              face and full-body sunscreens that
         mineral-based balm goes on            dioxide to physically deflect rays.        choice: While mineral sunscreens
        smooth and has a sharp, minty          These minerals sit on skin                 tend to be safer because they             spread clear, see our top picks.
      scent. $7.50; bigelowchemists.com


www.newyorkcenterforplasticsurgery.com                              J U LY 2 0 1 2   55     MEN’S JOURNAL

								
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