Stansport® Portable Outdoor Butane Heater
Mr. Heater® Portable Buddy™ Indoor Safe Propane Heater
Portable Heaters & Cookers
Portable Camping Stoves & Ovens
Cooking and Heating
Sun Oven Solar Cooker
Portable Propane Radiant Heater
Canned Fuel & Candle Cookers
Camping Fire Pits & Portable Cooking Grills
• Some of life's most memorable moments are shared as friends and families eat great-tasting meals around a
warm campfire. For years, Preparedness.com has been selling the Camp Chef stove line as well as the Coleman
Company and Stansport indoor and outdoor stoves and cooking accessories. The outdoor camping stoves and
cookware products have enhanced the quality of life for families everywhere.
Choosing a Camping Stove
Selecting a camping stove is easy once you know the choices and have decided what type of camping trips your
family will be taking. Stoves can have one, two or three burners. They will use propane, butane, white gas
("Coleman fuel"), unleaded gasoline, or kerosene. Here is the info you need in order to pick a stove for your trips.
It will be easier for your first few trips if the stove has at least two burners. This will allow you to use nearly all the
same food as at home. With two burners, you can have a typical two-pot meal, like pasta on one burner and sauce
on the other. You can even add a third pot by heating up one dish and setting it aside while you heat the others.
Brands like Coleman and Stansport typically offer a couple versions of each two-burner stove, with the difference
being the space for the pots. The "standard" sizes are adequate for most small families, and with a little creativity
and planning, can function well for up to ten persons. This size can be a good choice for larger families if there will
be a campfire which could be used to heat some dishes. Otherwise, you might want to try the extra large size
stove, as it will accommodate larger pots and may even put out more heat.
• White Gas ("Coleman") Fuel
You will encounter all the fuels named above such as propane, butane, white gas ("Coleman
fuel"), unleaded gasoline, or kerosene. However, I recommend only two real choices - propane or
white gas ("Coleman Fuel").
The white gas stoves will product the most heat of any camping stoves. It burns cleanly without
any odor or effect on food taste. If you spill the fuel it will evaporate very quickly and will not leave
an odor. This is very important - sooner or later some fuel will spill on your hand or clothes, maybe
even on your table. No problem though.
Many of the white gas stoves now come in a "dual fuel" version. This will allow you to use
unleaded auto gas. Many campers use the auto gas and are satisfied with it. However, if you spill
it or get it on your hands, you will have a hard time getting rid of the odor (check your hands the
next time you fill up at the self service gas station).
I recommend using only the white gas in the dual fuel stoves, unless you run out and can't buy
any - then use a little unleaded gas. This is the advantage to the dual fuel stoves.
The main advantage of the unleaded fuel over white gas is cost. Auto gas is about $3.50 to $5.00
per gallon, while white gas is about $4.50. I feel the extra cost for the few gallons of white gas
used each year is worth paying so you get the cleanliness of this fuel.
Liquid Fuel or Propane Canister?
Stoves are essentially divided into two kinds -
liquid fuel and canister. Liquid fuel stoves range
in size from the three-burner giant Coleman you
grandfather used with his cast iron skillet to
make pancakes (those were the days, no?) to
lightweight backpacking stoves that weigh next
to nothing. Prpane canister stoves would be the
same, if you consider a 15-pound propane tank
Following is a summary:
Propane burns cleanly and produces a hot, steady flame. It works well in very cold temperatures and at high altitudes. However, the gas canisters for propane have thick
metal walls, making them unsuitable for applications where weight is important (e.g. mountain or long distance backpacking).
Butane and Isobutane burn well and work at high altitudes. However, they are not very hot and do not work well at low temperatures (under 40º F. or 4º C.) as the gas
doesn't vaporize well. However, the gas canister is lighter than for Propane.
Propane & Butane blends combine the benefits of Propane (work well at cold temperatures) and Butane (relatively light canister). The higher the percentage of Propane,
the better the performance under cold conditions.
Before purchasing a given type of gas, ensure that your gas stove accepts that type of gas. Also check that the connection on the gas bottle fits your stove (there are
many different types of gas connections, which vary by country, manufacturer of gas canister and even type of gas).
With some gas stoves the gas canister connects directly to the stove whereas with others the gas canister connects via tubes or gas lines. The former tends to be a lighter
and simpler package overall. If the gas canister connects directly to the stove, the stove may have been designed with a specific type of canister (and maybe even a
specific manufacturer of canister) in mind; check compatibility before you buy.
Liquid Fuel Camping Stoves: Choosing a type of fuel
With liquid fuel stoves, in addition to the intended type of liquid fuel (e.g. white gas or Coleman fuel) the stoves often will burn a variety of different liquid fuels (e.g. diesel,
kerosene, petrol, gasoline, etc.). While these alternative fuels are generally inferior to the standard liquid fuels (and in some cases will clog the stove), they are readily
available almost anywhere. Consequently, if travelling in undeveloped countries or remote regions where standard camping stove fuels are unavailable, the ability to use
these backup fuels may be important to you.
Here is a short summary of liquid fuels:
White Gas or Coleman fuel. Burns cleanly and provides a strong heat (allowing fast cooking). It performs well in most weather conditions. If spilled it evaporates quickly
and without leaving an odour (an important point as it is almost certain that you will spill some at some time). Widely available in North America but may be difficult to find
in many countries. Coleman fuel is a proprietary version of white gas which has been (or so it is claimed) specifically for Coleman stoves.
Alcohol. Burns cleanly and is a relatively safe fuel. If spilled it evaporates quickly and without leaving an odour (an important point as it is almost certain that you will spill
some at some time). However, if burns cooler than other fuels (cooking takes longer) and less efficiently (poor heat to weight ratio). It is also relatively expensive. With
clear alcohol it can be difficult to see the flame, which can be a safety issue.
Kerosene. Widely available in almost all countries and inexpensive. However, it is a dirty fuel and can gum up fuel lines, requiring more cleaning and maintenance of your
stove. The fumes smell and are toxic. However, somewhat safer than gasoline (see immediately below).
Unleaded gasoline (Widely available and relatively inexpensive, but burns very dirty. It also tends to gum up fuel lines. If it spills it can ignite easily and under certain
conditions can explode. The fumes smell and are toxic. Consequently, an undesirable fuel which should only be used if no suitable fuels are available.
Here is a short summary of liquid fuels:
White Gas or Coleman fuel. Burns cleanly and provides a strong heat (allowing fast cooking). It
performs well in most weather conditions. If spilled it evaporates quickly and without leaving an
odour (an important point as it is almost certain that you will spill some at some time). Widely
available in North America but may be difficult to find in many countries. Coleman fuel is a
proprietary version of white gas which has been (or so it is claimed) specifically for Coleman
Alcohol. Burns cleanly and is a relatively safe fuel. If spilled it evaporates quickly and without
leaving an odour (an important point as it is almost certain that you will spill some at some time).
However, if burns cooler than other fuels (cooking takes longer) and less efficiently (poor heat to
weight ratio). It is also relatively expensive. With clear alcohol it can be difficult to see the flame,
which can be a safety issue.
Kerosene. Widely available in almost all countries and inexpensive. However, it is a dirty fuel and
can gum up fuel lines, requiring more cleaning and maintenance of your stove. The fumes smell
and are toxic. However, somewhat safer than gasoline (see immediately below).
Unleaded gasoline (Widely available and relatively inexpensive, but burns very dirty. It also tends
to gum up fuel lines. If it spills it can ignite easily and under certain conditions can explode. The
fumes smell and are toxic. Consequently, an undesirable fuel which should only be used if no
suitable fuels are available.
Canned Fuel & Candle Cookers
• All of these emergency heat and cooking kits are an incredibly simple source of heat and cooking
and light. light the wick or fuel gel and your ready to go! Ideal emergency preparedness, camping,
boating item. Canned fuels are very versatile and are great to use in a variety of applications to
cook and warm including emergency kits, trekking, boating, picnics, hunting, backpacking, heating
your tent, RV, camper and more.
To extinguish to flame, simply replace the lid on the can or with the "Snap-on-Stove" damper.
Relight the fuel at any time for continued burning.
All of our canned fuels are a clean burning, self contained source of dependable heat and are safe
for indoor use. All may be used for a variety of applications.
Each can of canned cooking and heating fuel provides many hours of light-heat-cooking. Each kit
comes with a can of fuel and attachable reusable cooktop. Replacement cans of fuel sold below.
Stansport® Portable Outdoor Butane Heater
• Certified For Indoor & Outdoor Use!
A must have disaster preparedness item!
Uses easy to find and install Disposable Propane Cylinders!
CLICK ON PICTURE TO VIEW PORTABLE BUDDY™ IN ACTUAL USE!
The latest evolution in a small heater is here! Portable Buddy™ from Enerco/Mr. Heater now
takes portable heat to another level - 9000 BTU/HR with the capacity to heat up to 200 square feet
of space for up to 110 hours (on low position)using a 20 lb propane cylinder. Will provide heat up
to 6 hours using an easy to install disposable cylinder. Great little heater for camping, fishing,
hunting and emergency preparedness.
Dual-position heat settings of 4,000, 9,000 BTU/HR control comfort level. Built-in oxygen shutoff
sensor and tip-over switch ensures indoor safe operation (adequate ventilation must be provided;
see operating instructions).
Certified by CSA International (American Gas Association), Mr. Heater's portable Buddy Indoor
Safe Heater features a low oxygen safety shutoff pilot to provide safe, reliable propane heat
Mr. Heater® Portable Propane Radiant Heater, Model MH12TS
• Mr. Heater's original portable Radiant propane
heater, the single burner with sparklite electronic
push button start, is an 8,000 to 14,000 BTU
radiant propane heater. This unit mounts to your
standard 5 to 20-pound propane barbecue tank.
This heater has a high, medium, and low
regulator. It also features a safety shutoff and
thermocouple. The single propane heater will
operate for approximately 30 hours on high, 45
hours on low, on a 20-pound cylinder. This
heater is great for the outdoor enthusiast.
Designed for outdoor use only.
EcoFuel XB™ Canned Cooking & Heating Fuel
• Eco-Fuel is safe for indoor use!
Camping & Hiking, Boating & Emergencies. Non-explosive, Non-hazardous!
ECO-FUEL XB™ IS THE ONLY CANNED FUEL THAT CAN BRING WATER TO A
Patented "Encapcellon Technology" creates a unique combustion at the top of the
canned fuel and eliminates spills. Eco-Fel XB canned fuel Keeps food hotter longer
with no danger of alcohol gel fires, and more heat than wicks. Safer, easier to use,
This fuel is clean burning. Free from toxic fumes and 100% biodegradable. Each can
features a dual temperature lid that allows you to control the heat for 5 hours of
cooking at 400 degrees or 10 hours of warming at 200 degrees.
EcoFuel XB (Extended Burn) is the safest and best performing canned heat for
cooking or warming with no offensive odors!
Stansport® Portable Outdoor Butane Heater
• The Stansport® portable outdoor butane heater gives
you ultra-quiet, reliable operation in a compact design. It
offers matchless (does not require power to light) lighting
with an electronic ignition (built-in). Camp heater gives
warmth up to 6,000 BTU. Great personal heater for the
outdoors. A must have when ice fishing, hunting,
camping, tailgate parties, patio, etc.
We do not ship butane gas canisters. 8 oz. butane
canisters cost a couple of bucks each and can be
purchased at many hardware and camping stores.
Cooking inside the tent—NOT!!
• . Many people advise that this should never be
done, due to safety risks and also due to the
possibility of damage to the tent or contents.
However, if you decide to ignore this advice,
ensure that the stove flame and any other stove
surfaces are well away from any items that can
melt or burn (such as your tent walls, roof,
sleeping bags, etc.).
Also, ensure that there is some ventilation, to
avoid risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.
• The second fuel option is propane. Propane does not give out as much heat as the white gas
stoves, but it has some very significant advantages for family camping.
First, propane stoves are much easier to use. The propane comes in bottles that are screwed into
the stove, not poured into a small tank's filler spout. It will not spill. All you need to do to start the
stove is turn on the gas, and light the burner - just like home. There are even propane stoves with
built in electronic starters - just like home. This feature makes the transition from cooking at home
to cooking at camp easier for most people.
Second, propane stoves are available for use with small fuel bottles, or even large RV type
bottles. If you start camping a lot, you will find that the small bottles may be very, very, convenient,
but very, very expensive. However, if you buy a stove that has a hose to screw into a larger fuel
tank, you can get a better price at the RV refill center. You will also save a lot of bottle changes
that can happen right in the middle of cooking your meals.
The propane tanks come in 5, 10 and 20 pound sizes. A typical patio gas barbeque grill has a 20
pound tank. The BBQ tank could be hooked up to a stove for the camping trip. Another option with
the propane tank approach is to get the optional attachment that will supply propane to a lantern
from the same tank. Now you will have a light in your "kitchen."
This may be more than you really want for starting out. But if you start with the disposable-bottle
type propane stove, you can grow to the tank version later.
Coleman® ProCat™ PerfectTemp™
Portable Indoor Safe Room/Tent Heater
• Safe Forced air heat in a portable heater! Designed for indoor use!
Great for warming up tents and other smaller spaces.
the ProCat™ PerfectTemp™ is a fantastic piece of gear that's very handy for any chilly outdoor excursion. So if you like to stay warm, but
don't feel like burning up your favorite gear, then check out the Coleman® ProCat™ PerfectTemp™.
Coleman® now has the answer for cold outdoor enthusiasts -- the ProCat™ PerfectTemp™ Heater. The ProCat™ PerfectTemp™ is a
portable platinum catalytic heater that has been approved for use inside tents, campers, ice-fishing shacks, garages or even a duck blind.
Essential for heating small rooms during power outages and a great piece of equipment for emergency preparedness.
The reason the ProCat™ PerfectTemp™ is different from most heaters is that it's completely flameless, so you don't have to worry about
melting your expensive tent. But, even though it's approved for inside use, you still need to allow the ProCat™ PerfectTemp™ ventilation
by unzipping your tent's window a little, or cracking the window of your camper.
The ProCat™ PerfectTemp™ is housed in a sturdy heavy-duty plastic shell and is 15 inches tall by 11 inches wide. The 8-inch heater
head puts out 3,000 BTUs, which is more than enough for a tent or small room.
Designed for indoor use
Heater operates with or without batteries
Silent, flameless heat source
Use the fan for better heat circulation (2 D Batteries not included)
Battery-operated fan provides increased heat circulation up to 20 hours (2 D Batteries not included)
Electronic InstaStart®ignition for easy, matchless lighting
3,000 BTU of safe indoor heating
Catalytic heater with platinum technology provides flameless safe warmth
Pressure-regulated propane fuel system
Operates up to 7 hours on 16.4 oz. propane cylinders found at most all hardware and sporting good stores
Catalytic flameless warmth, 3,000 BTU , electronic ignition, operates up to eight hours on a 16.4 oz. cylinder (not included), wt 7 lbs
• Mr. Heater® Big Buddy™ Portable
Indoor Safe Propane Heater
• Solar cooking requires only your oven and a sunny day. Brightness of the
day, and not outside air temperature is the most important factor. Solar
cooking entails a few basic principles; reflection, concentration, the green
house effect and absorption. Solar ovens have properly arranged reflective
inner walls to direct and concentrate the sun's energy on the dark pot or
dark bottom tray.
Solar cooking requires some oven adjustments to suit your situation and
needs. For instance; early in the morning or late in the day the angled sun's
rays aren't as strong, but you can still cook in the sun. You simply aim the
oven at the sun. Even cloudy days permit some low temperature cooking .
Your food will continue to cook as long as you have 20 minutes of sun an
hour. Shelter from the wind, as strong winds cool the oven. So locate the
most sunny and wind sheltered spot, and preheat your oven by simply
setting it up prior to cooking. This could take up to 45 min. You can even
take advantage of the sun's movement to aim your cooker to defrost in the
morning, cook in the day, and keep warm until dinner in the afternoon. All
that with the sun's movement and no oven adjustment. If you want
consistent heat, you will
• Dirty water may be caused by sediments and algae but often it's heavily
contaminated with micro-organisms and sometimes even chemicals. Due to the many
particles left in the water, when treating questionable water, chemical treatment will
not always be effective. A mechanical filtration device may be necessary.
Remember, the primary microorganisms of concern in most wilderness recreation
areas are tough, hardy cystic parasites that resist heat and cold... even
freezing...drought, chlorine, iodine and just about everything else. And while bacteria
are relatively fragile and have very short life cycles, often less than a day, cysts can
exist for months. All microorganisms of chief concern are invisibly small and they
cannot be seen, smelled, or detected in any quick and easy manner. Accordingly, you
should assume that all wilderness supplies are polluted.
Assume All water you come in to contact with in the outdoors (and most Countries) is
unsafe to drink until properly filtered or purified "no matter how clean it looks" In this
section you will find the best products available today to handle your water filtering /
purifying / treatment and testing needs.
Water Treatment Tablets & Purification Kits
YOU MUST NOT DRINK QUESTIONABLE WATER FROM ANY SOURCE!
Assume All water you come in to contact with in the outdoors (and most
Countries) is unsafe to drink until properly filtered or purified "no matter how
clean it looks".
With the increased use of the wilderness there has also been an increase in
the amount of bacteriological contamination of backcountry water supplies.
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency reports that 90 percent of the
world’s water is contaminated in some way. There are a variety of
microscopic organisms that can contaminate water supplies and cause
potentially serious, even fatal, illnesses among wilderness travelers. The
major danger in the backcountry from these infections is fluid loss due to
diarrhea and vomiting, which can lead to hypovolemic shock and possibly
death. In order to drink the water, you should be prepared to treat it.
• Polar Pure will destroy water borne pathogens, including giardia cysts and other micro-organism that pass through
some filters. Ideal for camping back packing, boating, emergency kits and other survival uses. A single bottle can
treat up to 2000 quarts of water. It is cost effective—less than 1¢ per quart. Easy to follow instruction are printed
on the bottle. Also attached to the bottle is a special thermometer to tell you exactly the correct dose.
Bottle contains concentrated iodine crystals that are not affected by age, air, or temperature. Water is safe to drink
20 minutes after treatment.
POLAR PURE Water Disinfectant uses pure crystallized iodine in a unique delivery system to destroy water-borne
pathogens including giardia cysts and micro-organisms that pass through filters.
When used as directed, approximately 300 ppm (parts per million) saturated iodine solution is maintained in the
POLAR PURE bottle. This saturated solution is then used to disinfect your water at an optimal concentration of 4-5
ppm iodine which will destroy Giardia cysts in 20-30 minutes in a closed quart / liter bottle of 68° F, 20° C water
(colder water will take longer).
Saturation concentration varies with solution temperature. A Liquid Crystal Dosage Chart on the POLAR PURE
bottle shows how many capfuls of saturated solution to add to one liter or quart of water to achieve a 4 ppm
solution in your water bottle.
You may also like
• Chlor-Floc® Water Treatment Purification Tablets
• Price: $12.90 Katadyn Micropur MP1 Emergency Drinking Water Treatment Tablets
• Price: $14.90 McNett Aquamira® Water Treatment Drops
• Price: $13.99 Aquamira® FRONTIER™ Personal Survival Water Filter Straw
• Price: $14.90 Stansportï¿½ Heavy-Duty Toilet Bags for Portable Toilets
• Price: $4.19
Why do we need a drinking water system?
More people are using drinking water systems while camping, backpacking and
Safety. Unfortunately, most lakes, rivers and streams are full of microorganisms that
can make you sick. Drinking water systems can eliminate these contaminants and
make the water safer to drink. Protect yourself, because you never know what's in the
Freedom. Be self-sufficient with a drinking water system. As long as there is a water
source, you can have safe drinking water. And, lightweight drinking water systems
won't weigh you down like carrying extra water.
What's really in the water?
Microorganisms are the primary threat in
untreated water sources. They may be in any
lake, river or stream, even if the water looks
clean. Microorganisms generally come from
animal waste and may be spread by rain and
• Beware of these 3 types of microorganisms:
Protozoa, Viruses, Bacteria
Protozoa (2 microns and larger)
• Protozoa are the largest microorganisms (eg. Giardia
and Cryptosporidium. Therefore, they are the easiest to
filter out of the water. However, their protective shell
makes them resistant to iodine and chlorine treatment
alone. One common protozoa, Giardia, causes "Beaver's
• "In one study from over 10,000 samples from streams all
across America, Alaska to Arizona, and they didn't find
one without Giardia.“ (Chuck Hibler, Colorado State
University. Backpacker Magazine, December 1996).
Bacteria (.2 microns and larager)
Bacteria range in size from 0.2 to 10
microns. Large bacteria may be removed
by most microfilters, but smaller bacteria
can only be eliminated by a very small
micron size microfilter or a purifier.
Bacteria are responsible for diseases such
as Cholera and Typhoid Fever.
Common bacteria are E. coli and
Viruses (.004 microns and larger)
Viruses are the smallest microorganisms and cannot be
reliably removed by filtration. It was traditionally thought
that viruses aren't a concern in North America, but that
opinion has changed. Wilderness studies suggest that
60% of all back county illnesses are actually caused by
bacteria and viruses. Viruses can cause serious health
problems, such as Hepatitis, Polio and Norwalk Virus.
Viruses can be eliminated from water with purification,
chemical disinfection, or boiling.
Examples of viruses: Hepatitis A, Polio, Norwalk Virus
What is the best way to make water safe to drink?
Combines chemical disinfection with filtration to eliminate all three
types of microorganisms.
Bring the water to a full boil to kill microorganisms. requires energy
source and takes time.
Add 1 or 2 tablets per quart and wait 20 minutes to kill the
microorganisms. Takes time and adds foul taste. limited
effectiveness against Giardia and not effective against
Microfilters may remove protozoa and most bacteria. Doesn't remove viruses. May require
frequent cleaning due to clogging.
How do I choose a drinking water system?
Use the Drinking Water Safety Guide to help you choose the best products for your needs. It
organizes drinking water systems according to the #1 concern: safe water.
Drinking Water Safety Guide Water System Microorganisms Eliminated Microbiological Micro
PROTECTION LEVEL No. 1 PURIFIER Eliminates Viruses, Bacteria and Giardia .004
PROTECTION LEVEL No. 2 MICROFILTER Eliminates Giardia and Most Bacteria 0.2 to 1.0
PROTECTION LEVEL No. 3 FILTER Eliminates Giardia 1.0 to 4.0
Purifiers: #1 highest safety rating Eliminates Viruses, Bacteria and Giardia, no matter what micron
Microfilters: #2 safety rating Eliminates Giardia and Most Bacteria, depending on their micron size.
Filters #3 safety rating Only eliminates Giardia and microorganisms larger than 1 micron.
Let There Be Light!
• Flashlight accessories, Led Flashlight Accessories
• Fuel Powered Lanterns & Lamps
• Battery Powered Lanterns, Battery Powered Camping Lanterns, Camping Lanterns
• Emergency Candles / Candle Sticks / Candle Lamps
• Flashlight accessories, Led Flashlight Accessories
• Fuel Powered Lanterns & Lamps
• Battery Powered Lanterns, Battery Powered Camping Lanterns, Camping Lanterns
• Emergency Candles / Candle Sticks / Candle Lamps
• Solar Flashlights and Dynamo Self Powered Lights
• LED Lights / Pocket / Headlamps
• Power Failure / Rechargeable Lights
• Chemical Snap Light Sticks, Glow in the Dark Party Lights, Lighting Supplies
• Batteries / Bulbs / Tubes
• Duracell® D-cell / C-cell / AA-cell / AAA-cell
Let There Be Light!
• Everything about Flashlights.
WHAT? Kind of Flashlight Do I Need
There are 3 basic types of flashlights: incandescent,
fluorescent, and LED. Each has strengths and
weaknesses. but you must clearly decide what function
you expect a flashlight to do before buying a battery
flashlight, then match the function with type of flashlight.
Each light serves a specific purpose and one should buy
a light that fits the situation.
LIGHT—Incandescent, Fluorescent, LED
• INCANDESCENT FLASHLIGHTS AND LANTERNS
This is the basic, old-fashioned flashlight with incandescent bulb that you probably already have in your car or garage. It comes in several
different types, going from least to most bright: general, krypton, halogen, xenon. Industrial quality flashlights to general purpose
flashlights can be found in many online camping and hardware stores. As brightness in the light bulb and actual flashlight goes up, so
does the price. It might cost you a few dollars more to buy a high quality flashlight, but the better quality and the brighter the flashlight will
last longer and provide a higher quality experience. The Coleman Company manufactures many reliable flashlights, they even make a
waterproof flashlight and lantern combination. Coleman flashlights are proven by many years of trial in the outdoors. A Coleman
waterproof flashlight can save the day if ever a flashlight ends up in the water while fishing or boating. Coleman flashlights are made in
various colors like red, green silver, blue and so on. The ever popular Coleman lantern can still be found in many U.S. homes and
garages. These Coleman lanterns are very reliable and can last for decades with proper use and care. Remember to buy the coleman
brand of battery powered and fuel powered lanterns
FLUORESCENT FLASHLIGHT AND LANTERNS
a good quality fluorescent lantern or flashlight such as manufactured by eveready, energizer, rayovac, Dorcy, Coleman, Garrity are an
excellent choice. A fluorescent lantern or flashlight will produce a wide area of light as needed for camping,, emergency preparedness,
household general use, etc. Again when you want to buy the best fluorescent lantern look for the Coleman or energizer brand. A good
fluorescent lantern is a must have when power fails in your home and are a great addition to every camping trip. Ambient light for the
campsite for relaxing after dinner and using the restroom in a blackout. lightweight and packability are important for backpacking. These
lights are the choice.
LED FLASHLIGHT AND SPOTLIGHTS.
These are the latest trend. An LED flashlight or lantern gives light that can actually be brighter than a conventional flashlight. and the
battery life is many times longer, plus the bulbs never burn out or need replacing. LED bulbs can be rough handled without breaking
unlike incandescent bulbs. Many companies like The Coleman Company, Dorcy International, Maglite, Garrity and Essential Gear make
Great LED flashlights that can be used in industrial, camping, automotive and household use.
POWER FAILURE AND RECHARGEABLE
Make your home or business a safer place during blackouts with the an Automatic
Power-Failure Light. Just plug it into an AC outlet and it automatically turns on when
the power goes out. Once electricity is restored, most units shut off and resume
recharging. These type of lights can also be used as a portable lighting source,
indoors or outdoors, thanks to a rechargeable battery system and built in carry
handle. These bright fluorescent, or LED power failure lights offer many hours of
operating time. A rechargeable power failure light has been specifically designed with
safety in mind. When the power fails, the light immediately turns on, discharging a
brilliant incandescent, Krypton or LED beam of light. As a portable flashlight, just
unplug it and take it with you in case of an emergency. A must have item in any
household or office. All power failure emergency lights automatically turn on when
power fails to help guide you to safety. Ordinary nightlights provide comfort in the
dark, but they don't have much use when the power goes out. The LED Power-
Failure Light is much more than a nightlight: Many of these rechargeable power
failure lights contains an LED nightlight with a built-in photo sensor that turns the light
on automatically at dusk and off at dawn. It also contains built-in rechargeable
batteries that turn the ultra-bright light on automatically if the power goes out, and you
can even remove the LED Power-Failure Light from the outlet to use its bright LED
flashlight feature. Since many of these power-failure lights uses LEDs, you'll never
need to replace the bulbs.
Heat, Light and Cooking In An
• To conserve your cooking fuel storage needs
always do your emergency cooking in the most
efficient manner possible. Don’t boil more water
than you need, extinguish the fire as soon as
you finished, plan your meals ahead of time to
consolidate as much cooking as possible, during
the winter cook on top of your heating unit while
heating your home, and cook in a pressure
cooker or other fuel efficient container as much
as possible. Keep enough fuel to provide
outdoor cooking for at least 7-10 days.
Pressure Cooker Cooking
• It is even possible to cook without using fuel at all. For
example, to cook dry beans you can place them inside a
pressure cooker with the proper amount of water and
other ingredients needed and place it on your heat
source until it comes up to pressure. Then turn off the
heat, remove the pressure cooker and place inside a
large box filled with newspapers, blankets, or other
insulating materials. Leave it for two and a half hours
and then open it, your meal will be done, having cooked
for two and a half hours with no heat. If you don’t have a
large box in which to place the pressure cooker, simply
wrap it in several blankets and place it in the corner.
• Store matches in a waterproof airtight tin
with each piece of equipment that must be
lit with a flame.
Sterno Fuel a jellied petroleum product, is
an excellent source of fuel for inclusion in
your back pack as part of your 72 hour kit.
Sterno is very light weight and easily
ignited with a match or a spark from flint
and steel but is not explosive. It is also
safe for use indoors.
• A Sterno Stove can be purchased at any
sporting goods store and will retail between $3
and $8, depending upon the model you choose.
They fold up into a very small, compact unit ideal
for carrying in a pack. The fuel is readily
available at all sporting goods stores and many
drug stores. One can of Sterno fuel, about the
diameter of a can of tuna fish and twice as high,
will allow you to cook six meals if used frugally.
Chafing dishes and fondue pots can also be
used with Sterno.
• Sterno is not without some problems. It will
evaporate very easily, even when the lid is
securely fastened. If you use Sterno in your 72
hour kit you should check it every six to eight
months to insure that it has not evaporated
beyond the point of usage. Because of this
problem it is not a good fuel for long-term
storage. It is a very expensive fuel to use
compared to others fuel available, but is
extremely convenient and portable.
Coleman fuel (white gas)
• When used with a Coleman stove this another excellent
and convenient fuel for cooking. It is not as portable nor
as lightweight as Sterno, but produces a much greater
BTU value. Like Sterno, Coleman fuel has a tendency to
evaporate even when the container is tightly sealed so it
is not a good fuel for long-term storage. Unlike Sterno,
however, it is highly volatile; it will explode under the
right conditions and should therefore never be stored in
the home. Because of its highly flammable nature great
care should always be exercised when lighting stoves
and lanterns that use Coleman fuel. Many serious burns
have been caused by carelessness with this product.
Always store Coleman fuel in the garage or shed, out of
• Charcoal is the least expensive fuel per BTU
that the average family can store. Remember
that it must always be used out of doors
because of the vast amounts of poisonous
carbon monoxide it produces. Charcoal will store
for extended period of time if it is stored in air
tight containers. It readily absorbs moisture from
the surrounding air so do not store it in the paper
bags it comes in for more than a few months or it
may be difficult to light. Transfer it to airtight
metal or plastic containers and it will keep
• Fifty or sixty dollars worth of charcoal will
provide all the cooking fuel a family will need for
an entire year if used sparingly. The best time to
buy briquettes inexpensively is at the end of the
summer. Broken or torn bags of briquettes are
usually sold at a big discount. You will also want
to store a small amount of charcoal lighter fluid
(or kerosene). Newspapers will also provide an
excellent ignition source for charcoal when used
in a funnel type of lighting device.
Lighting Charcoal with Newspaper
• To light charcoal using newspapers use two or three sheets,
crumpled up, and a #10 tin can. Cut both ends out of the can. Punch
holes every two inches around the lower edge of the can with a
punch-type can opener (for opening juice cans). Set the can down
so the punches holes are on the bottom. Place the crumpled
newspaper in the bottom of the can and place the charcoal
briquettes on top of the newspaper. Lift the can slightly and light the
newspaper. Prop a small rock under the bottom edge of the can to
create a a good draft. The briquettes will be ready to use in about
20-30 minutes. When the coals are ready remove the chimney and
place them in your cooker. Never place burning charcoal directly on
concrete or cement because the heat will crack it. A wheelbarrow or
old metal garbage can lid makes an excellent container for this type
Charcoal==40 degrees of heat/briquette
• One of the nice things about charcoal is
that you can regulate the heat you will
receive from them. Each briquette will
produce about 40 degrees of heat. If you
are baking bread, for example, and need
400 degrees of heat for your oven, simply
use ten briquettes.
Charcoal with a Cardboard Oven
• To conserve heat and thereby get the maximum heat value from
your charcoal you must learn to funnel the heat where you want it
rather than letting it dissipate into the air around you. One excellent
way to do this is to cook inside a cardboard oven. Take a cardboard
box, about the size of an orange crate, and cover it with aluminum
foil inside and out. Be sure that the shiny side is visible so that
maximum reflectivity is achieved. Turn the box on its side so that the
opening is no longer on the top but is on the side. Place some small
bricks or other noncombustible material inside upon which you can
rest a cookie sheet about two or three inches above the bottom of
the box. Place ten burning charcoal briquettes between the bricks (if
you need 400 degrees), place the support for your cooking vessels,
and then place your bread pans or whatever else you are using on
top of the cookie sheet. Prop a foil-covered cardboard lid over the
open side, leaving a large crack for air to get in (charcoal needs a lot
of air to burn) and bake your bread, cake, cookies, etc. just like you
would in your regular oven. Your results will amaze you.
Making Your Own Charcoal
• To make your own charcoal, select twigs, limbs,
and branches of fruit, nut and other hardwood
trees; black walnuts and peach or apricot pits
may also be used. Cut wood into desired size,
place in a large can which has a few holes
punched in it, put a lid on the can and place the
can in a hot fire. When the flames from the holes
in the can turn yellow-red, remove the can from
the fire and allow it to cool. Store the briquettes
in a moisture-proof container. Burn charcoal only
in a well-ventilated area.
Water storage is important. Having an ample supply of
safe, clean water is a top priority in an emergency.
• A normally active person needs to drink at least two
quarts of water each day. Hot environments can double
that amount. Children, nursing mothers and ill people will
need even more. You will also need water for food
preparation and hygiene. Store a total of at least one
gallon per person, per day. You should store at least a
two-week supply of water for each member of your
• If supplies run low, never ration water. Drink the amount
you need today, and try to find more for tomorrow. You
can minimize the amount of water your body needs by
reducing activity and staying cool.
Amount of Water to Store
• Whereas a quart of water or other fluid daily will sustain life,
according to the Department of Defense and the Office of Civil
Defense, it is recommended that a gallon of water per day per
person be stored for food preparation and drinking. A gallon
provides added comfort and accommodates increased fluid needs at
higher altitudes or warm climates. An additional one-half to 1 gallon
per day is recommended for bathing and hygiene, and to wash
• How much water should I store? The rule of thumb is to store at
least one gallon per person per day for at least 3 days (for
earthquake preparedness). That’s 2 quarts for drinking and 2 quarts
for food preparation and sanitation. A family of four should store a
minimum of 12 gallons of water. Personally, I recommend at least
a 10 day supply of water and a 30 day supply if it all possible.
Use the following guidelines when storing water:
• 1. Store drinking water in carefully cleaned, non-corrosive, tightly
• 2. Store containers in a cool dark place. DO NOT store in direct
sunlight. Polyethylene plastics (prepackaged milk and water bottles)
are somewhat permeable to hydrocarbon vapors. Keep away from
stored gasoline, kerosene, pesticides, or similar substances.
• 3. Stored tap water should be rotated every 6 months. Prepackaged
bottled water should be rotated once a year. Check the pull date on
the container. Be sure it didn’t sit on the store’s shelf for a year
before you purchased it. Self Serve Bottled Water should be rotated
once a year, as long as the water treatment process includes
• 4. Rotate your stored water with the water you use on a regular
basis. This practice helps insure you don’t have water stored longer
than one year.
Containers That Can be Used for Water Storage
• Food-grade plastic or glass containers are suitable for storing water. One-, three- and
five-gallon water containers can be purchased from most outdoor or hardware stores.
Any plastic or glass container that previously held food or beverages such as 2-liter
soda bottles or water, juice, punch or milk jugs, also may be used. Stainless steel can
be used to store water which has not been or will not be treated with chlorine;
chlorine is corrosive to most metals.
• 55 gal drums, designed specifiacally for water storage can be difficult to transport, if
the need arises, but are of a tremendous value in an emergency .When looking for
additional food grade containers, the bottom will be stamped with HDPE (High
Density PolyEthylene) and coded with the recycle symbol and a “2″ inside. HDPE
containers are FDA-approved for food. Containers without these designations aren’t
OK because of possible chemical interactions between the water and the plastic.
• Clean used containers and lids with hot soapy water. Once the containers have been
thoroughly cleaned, rinse them with water and sanitize the containers and lids by
rinsing them with a solution of 1 tablespoon chlorine bleach per gallon of water.
Leave the containers wet for two minutes, then rinse them again with water.
Remember to remove the paper or plastic lid liners before washing the lids. It is very
difficult to effectively remove all residue from many containers, so carefully clean
hard-to-reach places like the handles of milk jugs. To sanitize stainless steel
containers, place the container in boiling water for 10 minutes. Never use containers
that previously held chemicals.
Do I Need to Treat Water?
• Once you properly clean containers, fill them
with potable, or safe, drinking water. All public
water supplies are already treated and should
be free of harmful bacteria. However, as an
additional precaution, it is recommended that
you add 5-7 drops, about 1/8 teaspoon, of
chlorine bleach per gallon of water stored. This
precaution protects you against any lingering
organisms in storage containers that may have
been inadvertently missed during the cleaning
Where to Store Water
• Clearly label all water containers “drinking water” with the current
date. Store the water in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight
and heat sources. Do not store it near gasoline, kerosene,
pesticides or similar substances.
• When potable water is properly stored, it should have an indefinite
shelf life; however, it’s a good idea to use and replace the stored
water every 6 - 12 months. Rotating water this way provides you
with an opportunity to experiment and check the amount of stored
water against what you require. It also serves as an additional
precaution against bacteria or viruses growing in containers which
may not have been thoroughly or properly cleaned and sanitized.
• If you have freezer space, storing some water in the freezer is a
good idea. If you lose electricity, the frozen water will help keep
foods in your freezer frozen until the power is restored. Make sure
you leave 2 to 3 inches of space in containers because water
expands as it freezes.
Emergency Sources of Water
• In an emergency, if you have not previously stored water and
commercial or public sources of water are not available, drain water
from your plumbing system. Unless you are advised that the public
water supply has been contaminated and is not safe, open the drain
valve at the bottom of the water heater and salvage the water stored
in the heater. A typical water heater holds 30-60 gallons of water.
Discard the first few gallons if they contain rust or sediment. Let the
water heater cool before draining it from the heater so it does not
scald you. Turn off the electricity or gas to the water heater to
prevent the heater from operating without water. Once water has
been drained into clean, sanitized containers, add 5-7 drops of
chlorine bleach* per gallon of water, and stir or shake the solution to
mix it. Let it set 30 minutes before use.
Emergency Outdoor Water Sources
• If you need to find water outside your home, you
can use these sources. Be sure to treat the
water first. Additional sources include:
• Rainwater Streams, rivers and other moving
bodies of water Ponds and lakes Natural springs
Avoid water with floating material, an odor or
dark color. Use saltwater only if you distill it first.
You should not drink flood water.
Hidden Water Sources in Your Home
• If a disaster catches you without a stored supply of clean water, you
can use the water in your hot-water tank, pipes and ice cubes. As a
last resort, you can use water in the reservoir tank of your toilet (not
• Do you know the location of your incoming water valve? You’ll need
to shut it off to stop contaminated water from entering your home if
you hear reports of broken water or sewage lines.
• To use the water in your pipes, let air into the plumbing by turning on
the faucet in your house at the highest level. A small amount of
water will trickle out. Then obtain water from the lowest faucet in the
• To use the water in your hot-water tank, be sure the electricity or
gas is off, and open the drain at the bottom of the tank. Start the
water flowing by turning off the water intake valve and turning on a
hot-water faucet. Do not turn on the gas or electricity when the tank
When and How to Treat Water for Storage
• In an emergency, if you do not have water
that you know is safe, it’s possible to purify
water for drinking. Start with the cleanest
water you can find and treat with one of
the following methods:
Boiling and chlorinating:
• Water can be purified by boiling. Boiling times
may vary from state to state, depending on
altitude. In Colorado, the water is safe to use
once after it has been boiled for three to five
minutes and has cooled. If you plan to store
boiled water, pour it into clean, sanitized
containers and let it cool to room temperature.
Then add 5-7 drops, or 1/8 teaspoon, of chlorine
bleach* per gallon of water (1/2 teaspoon per 5
gallons). Stir or shake the solution to mix it. Cap
the containers and store them in a cool, dry
Filtering and chlorinating:
• You can filter water if you have a commercial or
backpack filter that filters to 1 micron. These are
available in sporting good stores and are recommended
for use when back-packing. They are not recommended
to clean large volumes of water. Filtering eliminates
parasites such as giardia and cryptosporidium, but it may
not eliminate all bacteria and viruses. Therefore, it’s
recommended that 5-7 drops (1/8 teaspoon) of chlorine
bleach* be added per gallon of filtered water (1/2
teaspoon for 5 gallons). Stir or shake the solution to mix
it. Wait 30 minutes before using the water, or cap the
containers and store them in a cool, dry place.
• Use liquid household bleach that contains
5.25 percent hypochlorite. Do not use
bleaches with fresheners or scents as they
may not be safe to consume. The above
treatment methods use a two-step approach so
less bleach is needed, yet giardia and
cryptosporidium are destroyed through boiling or
eliminated by filtering. Chlorine may not be
effective against these parasites. Since adding
too much chlorine to water can be harmful,
it’s important to be as accurate as possible
• Distillation involves boiling water and then
collecting the vapor that condenses back to
water. The condensed vapor will not include salt
and other impurities. To distill, fill a pot halfway
with water. Tie a cup to the handle on the pot’s
lid so that the cup will hang right-side-up when
the lid is upside-down (make sure the cup is not
dangling into the water) and boil the water for 20
minutes. The water that drips from the lid into
the cup is distilled.
Most water filtration devices are designed for use on
microbiologically safe water.
Don’t assume they are safe to use on contaminated water.
Check with the manufacturer to be sure.
• Filtration Equipment Safe on Microbiologically Contaminated Water?
• Carbon Filter No
• Reverse Osmosis No
• Deionization Filter No
• Pitcher No
• Faucet Mount Filter No
• Steam Distiller Yes-but it requires electricity
• UV Sterilizer Yes-but it requires electricity
• Ceramic Filter Some-but only if rated for bacterial
Equipment that is safe to use on contaminated water is often slow, costly,
inconvenient and/or high maintenance. It makes the most sense to use
the filtration equipment that best meets your normal daily needs and
shift to water storage or alternative methods of water treatment in
times of emergencies.
Sanitation and Hygiene
in an Emergency
The lack of sanitation facilities
Following a major disaster can quickly
create secondary problems
unless basic guidelines are followed.
Do not flush the toilet…
• If the water lines are damaged or if
damage is suspected, do not flush
the toilet. Avoid digging holes in the
ground and using these. Untreated
raw sewage can pollute fresh ground
water supplies. It also attracts flies
and promotes the spread of diseases.
A Toilet by any other name--
• Store a large supply of heavy-duty plastic
bags, twist ties, disinfectant, and toilet paper
• A good disinfectant that is easy to use
is a solution of 1 part liquid bleach to 10 parts water. Dry bleach
is caustic and not safe for this type of use.
• If the toilet is NOT able to be flushed,
it can still be used. This is less stressful for most people than using
some other container. Remove all the bowl water. Line it with a heavy-duty
plastic bag. When finished, add a small amount of deodorant or disinfectant,
securely tie the bag, and dispose of it in a large trash can with a
tight fitting lid. This large trash can should also be lined with a
sturdy trash bag. Eventually, the city will provide a means to dispose
of these bags.
• Portable camp toilets, small trash cans
or sturdy buckets lined with heavy-duty plastic bags can also be used.
Those with tight fitting lids are best.
Tips for Staying Clean in an Emergency
• As much as possible, continue regular hygiene
habits such as brushing your teeth, washing your face, combing your hair
and even washing your body with a wet washcloth. This will help prevent
the spread of disease and irritation as well as help relieve stress.
• Keep your fingers out of your mouth. Avoid
handling food with your hands.
• Purify your drinking water. Use chlorine
bleach, purification tablets (check bottle for expiration dates), or
by boiling for 10 minutes.
• Sterilize your eating utensils by heat.
You can also rinse dishes in purified water that has additional chlorine
bleach added to it. (Use 2 1/2 teaspoons bleach per gallon of purified
• Keep your clothing as clean and dry as
possible, especially under-clothing and socks.
If you have stomach problems, be sure to drink
plenty of fluids and get plenty of rest.
• If, during an emergency situation, you
develop vomiting or diarrhea, rest
and stop eating solid foods until the
symptoms ease up. Take fluids,
particularly water, in small amounts at
frequent intervals. As soon as can be
tolerated,resume eating semi-solid foods.
Normal salt intake should be maintained.
Keep Basic Hygiene Supplies Handy
(Remember your Go pack and your car.)
• Fingernail clippers and files
• Sanitary napkins
• Insect repellent
• Toilet paper
• Moistened Towelettes or Baby Wipes
• A few bath towels
• Small hand-held mirror
• Liquid all-purpose soap
• Vaseline Petroleum Jelly
• Liquid Chlorine Bleach
• Ammonia (disinfecting aid)
Emergency Sewage Disposal
• Water flush toilets cannot be used when water
service is interrupted. The water remaining in the fixture is not sufficient
to flush the wastes down the sewer. Clogging may result and your living
conditions then become just that much more uncomfortable.
• Even if water is available, local authorities may ask you not to use flush
toilets, wash basins, and other fixtures connected with soil pipes. The
sewer mains may be broken or clogged, which would make it impossible to
carry off such waste; or water may be needed for fire fighting or other
emergencies. It is necessary for every family to know emergency methods
of waste disposal in case such conditions arise.
• Failure to properly dispose of human wastes can lead to epidemics of such
diseases as typhoid, dysentery, and diarrhea. At the same time, sewage
must be disposed of in ways that will prevent contamination of water
used for drinking, cooking, bathing, laundering, and other domestic
Here are simple steps that any family can take to prevent such dangers
Temporary Toilet Provisions
• Right after an emergency, or during one, you will probably not have the
time and tools to prepare a complex emergency sanitation system. If there
is a delay of several days in restoring sewage service to your neighborhood,
you may find that disposal is a big problem. Your first task is to make
some temporary toilet provision for your family, especially the children.
Almost any covered metal or plastic container will do. You can use a
pail, a 5-gallon bucket, or a small kitchen garbage container with a foot
operated cover for an emergency toilet. Anything that has a cover and
will hold the contents until you can dispose of them will serve for sanitary
purposes at first.
Emergency Sewage Storage
• Keep on the premises at least one extra 10-gallon garbage can or
waterproof container with a tight fitting cover. This should be lined
with paper and/or a plastic bag. And the lid should be fastened to
can to prevent its loss. Such a can may be used for the emergency
of body wastes until the public sewage system can be put back into
or until other arrangements can be made. Empty your emergency
this storage can as often as necessary. A small amount of
should be added after each use. If you live in an apartment, you may
have a large garbage can or room to keep one. In that case, two
covered pails or other containers will do just as well.
Controlling Odors and Insects
Insecticides and deodorants should be
used when necessary to control odors
and insects breeding in containers that
cannot be emptied immediately.
At least 2 pints of household bleach
solution should be kept on hand for
Keep on hand an extra supply of toilet tissue, plus a supply of sanitary
• If there is illness in the house that requires rubber sheeting
or other special sanitary equipment, make sure that adequate supplies
• At least a week’s accumulation of daily newspapers will
come in handy for insulating bedding from floors, and lining clothes against
cold, as well as for the sanitary uses already mentioned.
• You should have sufficient grocery bags
on hand for possible emergencies.
• A supply of old newspapers will come
in handy for other sanitary uses also, such as wrapping garbage and lining
• If you have a baby in your home, you may
find diaper laundering a problem
under emergency conditions. It is best to
keep an ample supply of disposable
diapers on hand for emergency use. Or,
any moisture resistant material
can be cut and folded to diaper size and
lined with absorbent material.
Keeping Food Safe During an Emergency
• Always keep meat, poultry, fish, and eggs
refrigerated at or below 40 °F and frozen
food at or below 0 °F. This may be difficult
when the power is out.
• Keep the refrigerator and freezer doors closed as much
as possible to maintain the cold temperature. The
refrigerator will keep food safely cold for about 4 hours if
it is unopened. A full freezer will hold the temperature for
approximately 48 hours (24 hours if it is half full) if the
door remains closed. Obtain dry or block ice to keep
your refrigerator as cold as possible if the power is going
to be out for a prolonged period of time. Fifty pounds of
dry ice should hold an 18-cubic foot full freezer for 2
days. Plan ahead and know where dry ice and block ice
can be purchased.
• Be prepared for an emergency...
... by having items on hand that don’t require
refrigeration and can be eaten cold or heated on the
outdoor grill. Shelf-stable food, boxed or canned milk,
water, and canned goods should be part of a planned
emergency food supply. Make sure you have ready-to-
use baby formula for infants and pet food. Remember to
use these items and replace them from time to time. Be
sure to keep a hand-held can opener for an emergency.
• Coolers are a great help for keeping food
cold if the power will be out for more than
4 hours—have a couple on hand along
with frozen gel packs. When your freezer
is not full, keep items close together—this
helps the food stay cold longer.
• Digital, dial, or instant-read food thermometers and
appliance thermometers will help you know if the food is
at safe temperatures. Keep appliance thermometers in
the refrigerator and freezer at all times. When the power
is out, an appliance thermometer will always indicate the
temperature in the refrigerator and freezer no matter how
long the power has been out. The refrigerator
temperature should be 40 °F or below; the freezer, 0 °F
or lower. If you’re not sure a particular food is cold
enough, take its temperature with a food thermometer.
• Q.Flood waters covered our food stored on shelves and in
cabinets. What can I keep and what should I throw out? A.Do
not eat any food that may have come into contact with flood water.
• Discard any food that is not in a waterproof container if there is any
chance that it has come into contact with flood water. Food
containers that are not waterproof include those with screw-caps,
snap lids, pull tops, and crimped caps. Also, discard cardboard
juice/milk/baby formula boxes and home canned foods if they have
come in contact with flood water, because they cannot be effectively
cleaned and sanitized.
• Inspect canned foods and discard any food in damaged cans. Can
damage is shown by swelling, leakage, punctures, holes, fractures,
extensive deep rusting, or crushing/denting severe enough to
prevent normal stacking or opening with a manual, wheel-type can
• Steps to Salvage All-Metal Cans and Retort Pouches
Undamaged, commercially prepared foods in all-metal
cans and retort pouches (for example, flexible, shelf-
stable juice or seafood pouches) can be saved if you do
• Remove the labels, if they are the removable kind, since
they can harbor dirt and bacteria.
• Thoroughly wash the cans or retort pouches with soap
and water, using hot water if it is available.
• Brush or wipe away any dirt or silt.
• Rinse the cans or retort pouches with water that is safe
for drinking, if available, since dirt or residual soap will
reduce the effectiveness of chlorine sanitation.
• Then, sanitize them by immersion in one of the two following ways:
• Place in water and allow the water to come to a boil and continue
boiling for 2 minutes, or
• Place in a freshly made solution consisting of 1 tablespoon of
unscented, liquid chlorine bleach per gallon of drinking water (or the
cleanest, clearest water available) for 15 minutes.
• Air-dry cans or retort pouches for a minimum of 1 hour before
opening or storing.
• If the labels were removable, then re-label your cans or retort
pouches, including the expiration date (if available), with a marker.
• Food in reconditioned cans or retort pouches should be used as
soon as possible, thereafter.
• Any concentrated baby formula in reconditioned, all-metal
containers must be diluted with clean, drinking water.
• Q.How should I clean my pots, pans, dishes,
and utensils? A.Thoroughly wash metal pans,
ceramic dishes, and utensils (including can
openers) with soap and water, using hot water if
available. Rinse and then sanitize them by
boiling in clean water or immersing them for 15
minutes in a solution of 1 tablespoon of
unscented, liquid chlorine bleach per gallon of
drinking water (or the cleanest, clearest water
• Q.How should I clean my countertops?
A.Thoroughly wash countertops with soap
and water, using hot water if available.
Rinse and then sanitize them by applying
a solution of 1 tablespoon of unscented,
liquid chlorine bleach per gallon of drinking
water (or the cleanest, clearest water
available). Allow to air-dry.
• Q.We had a fire in our home and I am worried about what food I
can keep and what to throw away. A.Discard food that has been
near a fire. Food exposed to fire can be damaged by the heat of the
fire, smoke fumes, and chemicals used to fight the fire. Food in cans
or jars may appear to be okay, but the heat from a fire can activate
food spoilage bacteria. If the heat is extreme, the cans or jars
themselves can split or rupture, rendering the food unsafe.
One of the most dangerous elements of a fire is sometimes not the
fire itself, but toxic fumes released from burning materials. Discard
any raw food or food in permeable packaging—cardboard, plastic
wrap, screw-topped jars, bottles, etc.—stored outside the
refrigerator. Food stored in refrigerators or freezers can also
become contaminated by fumes.
• Q.A snowstorm knocked down the power lines, can I put the
food from the refrigerator and freezer out in the snow? A.No,
frozen food can thaw if it is exposed to the sun's rays even when the
temperature is very cold. Refrigerated food may become too warm
and foodborne bacteria could grow. The outside temperature could
vary hour by hour and the temperature outside will not protect
refrigerated and frozen food. Additionally, perishable items could be
exposed to unsanitary conditions or to animals. Animals may harbor
bacteria or disease; never consume food that has come in contact
with an animal. Rather than putting the food outside, consider taking
advantage of the cold temperatures by making ice. Fill buckets,
empty milk cartons or cans with water and leave them outside to
freeze. Then put the homemade ice in your refrigerator, freezer, or
• Q.Some of my food in the freezer started to thaw or had thawed
when the power came back on. Is the food safe? How long will
the food in the refrigerator be safe with the power off? A.Never
taste food to determine its safety! You will have to evaluate each
item separately. If an appliance thermometer was kept in the
freezer, read the temperature when the power comes back on. If the
appliance thermometer stored in the freezer reads 40 °F or below,
the food is safe and may be refrozen. If a thermometer has not been
kept in the freezer, check each package of food to determine the
safety. Remember you can’t rely on appearance or odor. If the food
still contains ice crystals or is 40 °F or below, it is safe to refreeze.
Refrigerated food should be safe as long as power is out no more
than 4 hours. Keep the door closed as much as possible. Discard
any perishable food (such as meat, poultry, fish, eggs, and leftovers)
that have been above 40 °F for 2 hours.
• Q.May I refreeze the food in the freezer if it
thawed or partially thawed? A.Yes, the food
may be safely refrozen if the food still contains
ice crystals or is at 40 °F or below. You will have
to evaluate each item separately. Be sure to
discard any items in either the freezer or the
refrigerator that have come into contact with raw
meat juices. Partial thawing and refreezing may
reduce the quality of some food, but the food will
remain safe to eat.
• How Long Should Canned Foods Be Kept?
• Store canned foods and other shelf-stable products in a cool, dry
place. Never put them above the stove, under the sink, in a damp
garage or basement, or any place exposed to high or low
temperature extremes. Store high-acid foods, such as tomatoes and
other fruit, up to 18 months. Low-acid foods, such as meat and
vegetables, can be kept 2 to 5 years.
While extremely rare, a toxin produced by Clostridium botulinum is
the worst danger in canned foods. NEVER USE food from
containers that show signs of botulism: leaking, bulging, rusting, or
badly dented cans; cracked jars; jars with loose or bulging lids;
canned food with a foul odor; or any container that spurts liquid
when opening. DO NOT TASTE THIS FOOD! Even the tiniest
amount of botulinum toxin can be deadly.
• SAFETY FIRST!
– Do not burn anything larger than candles in your home without providing adequate
ventilation to the outside. All heaters, except electric heaters, should be vented to
provide oxygen and to safely remove exhaust fumes, gases and smoke.
– Do not ever operate generators indoors, not even in the garage. Operate them outside
and connect them to your appliances via cables. There are also ways to connect them
directly to your home's electric system, thereby allowing you to run all your appliances
as you usually would. Ask a professional for guidance, if this is your choice.
– Toxic gases present a serious danger when there is insufficient ventilation. For safety,
provide cross ventilation by opening a window an inch on each side of a room.
• Someone should always be awake:
– During these crises situations, it's best to have one person stay awake
to watch for fire and to detect other problems, such as fumes.
Drowsiness is one sign of carbon monoxide poisoning. If the "watch
person" feels sleepy, it may be a sign of poor ventilation. Introducing
fresh air into the room may be life-saving.
Prepare for Fire Fighting:
– Set up some firefighting items near your emergency heating device. Dry
powder fire extinguishers will put out most types of burning materials.
Sand, salt, baking soda or water can be used on most non-oil materials.
A tarpaulin or heavy blanket can be used for smothering flames. Post
your local fire department's telephone number near your telephone.
• Discuss emergency procedures with all members of your
– Finally, discuss safety, firefighting techniques and a home evacuation
plan with all members of your family.
• Insulate Your Home From the Cold: The
first step is to insulate everything the best
you can to keep as much heat as possible
inside the house. Seal cracks around
doors and windows with towels and
blankets. At Home Depot you can buy
window sealing tapes that you wrap
around windows and blow dry to vacuum-
• Limit the area to be heated: Select a space on the
"warm" side of the house, away from prevailing cold
winds. It's best to avoid rooms with large windows or
uninsulated walls. Interior rooms, such as inside
bathrooms or closets, probably have the lowest heat
loss. Your basement may be another great option in cold
weather, because of the heat gain from the earth. Isolate
the room from the rest of the house by keeping doors
closed, hanging bedding, heavy drapes, blankets or
towels over entryways or erecting temporary partitions of
cardboard or plywood. Hang drapes, bedding, shower
curtains, and such other insulating items over doors and
• Explore alternative heating methods to
• Examples would be gas ranges or fireplaces
(below listed are more options). The least
desirable solutions are makeshift heaters, such
as charcoal burning grills, camp stoves,
kerosene heaters or industrial-type oil heaters. If
you must use them, do so only with plenty of
ventilation. Below is a listing of alternative
heating options - but first consider the following.
• Camping Stores are a wonderful place to
find gadgets that will take you through
these crises times
• Generators: If you have a generator, obtain
fuel. DO NOT store fuels in heated areas. This is
particularly true for highly combustible items
such as gasoline and kerosene, or even paper.
When in use, generators need to be kept
OUTDOORS with cables leading into the house
and to the appliances they are powering up. It is
deadly to operator generators indoors.
• Portable Power System: A powerinverter can be a
lifesaver if you need to heat up formula for your baby or
chicks, or have to power up an incubator or hospital
cage during a electric outage. This is a small electrical
device that converts DC current, from a car cigarette
lighter or a battery, into 110 AC current. It enables you to
use a common electrical device or appliance in your car
or any place that has access to a 12 volt battery.
Powerinverters can be purchased in a computer store,
camping / recreation vehicle stores, in marine supply
stores or online - some of them are featured to the right.
They cost from $50, for a simple 100 watt unit, up to
several hundred dollars for large units that will enable
you to use electric appliances and provide power for up
to 24 hours.
• Oil Lamps: It is generally not
recommended to use oil lamps around
birds. However, you can use them in other
rooms, as long as the birds are not
exposed to any fumes.
• Fire Places: If wood logs aren't available,
paper "logs" can be made by rolling
newspapers or magazines tightly into
small log-sized bundles, which can be
burned if they are stacked to allow proper
air circulation. If the situation gets critical,
other burnable wood can be considered,
including lumber and even furniture
• Gas or Charcoal Grills:
• For cooking your food, a grill is a great option
during an electric outage; however, do not ever
use a grill indoors unless it is an indoor grill.
Carbon Monoxide is a byproduct of burning
charcoal - and in an enclosed environment, it is
a deadly gas.
• To warm up the house, you can heat bricks or
even rocks on the grill. These hold heat for quite
• Helpful Tips to Keep Warm:
• "Green" Heat:
– Great for Outside Flights / Aviaries: Susanne Russo recommends: "A
simple and cheap heater can be made by taking any leaves from the
yard as well as kitchen table scraps and like items. Place them in a
double layer trash bag, wet the contents until they are slightly damp,
then tie the bag closed. Put it in a trash can with a lid. This is my
emergency heater for cold weather. The stuff in the bag starts
composting and in several hours starts building up heat. Within 24
hours, it can almost get hot to the touch, and will radiate heat for a few
days. If you have outside aviaries, place the closed trash can in your
flights and it will radiate some heat. Another thing that can be used to
get the leaves and compost heating up quicker is Compost Starter,
which can be found at some nursery and garden supplies."
– Solar Heat: An appreciable amount of heat can be gained through large
windows on the southern side of the house.
• Heat Packs / Hand Pocket Warmers: Wrap your pet
cages / carriers on the top and 3 sides with bubble wrap
or thick towels / blankets. If you use bubble wrap, make
sure the bubbles face away from the cage. Most drug
store carry heat packs that you "snap" to activate the
heating element. Wrap a couple of them in towels and
place them on the bottom of the cage. Make sure your
bird can't get in direct contact with the heat pack (or
chew on it as contents are toxic). These heat packs /
hand pocket warmers can usually be found in the
"camping" section of your local drug store and are really
recommended for such emergencies. They only cost a
dollar or so and work well for small areas.
• Heated Bricks (Please also see below: Gas or
Charcoal Grills): If you have a gas oven or
fireplace, you can heat bricks up to a high
temperature. If you have an electric oven and
expect a power outage, you can warm the bricks
up as a precaution. Remove the bricks when
they are warm, but still touchable. Bricks hold
warmth for a long time, sometimes days. You
can wrap these bricks in towels and warm up
your bed or place them under your bird's carrier /
• Hot water: Filling your bathtub with hot
water will help if your power isn't out for
• Tips about Safely Heating Your Home:
• Teflon: Some space heaters may have
Teflon coating on some of its parts, which
is toxic to birds when over-heated and can
have detrimental effects on our own
• Gas fireplaces come in two varieties-vented and
ventless. The vented varieties tend to be the safest, as
new air is drawn into the room and potentially harmful
gasses are expelled to the outside. "Fake" ventless
fireplaces have been outlawed in several U.S. states and
in Canada. They should never be installed in bedrooms
or small / poorly vented homes. Ventless fireplaces
generate a lot of carbon monoxide that accumulates
inside the house -- presenting a risk to humans and
animals. Wood-burning fireplaces are said to be safe
around birds, as long as you are burning UNTREATED
wood, the flu is completely open, and you have a screen
in front of the fire.
• Natural gas space heaters are generally
safe, and most often have a vent of some
sort. These kinds use a catalytic process
to convert the carbon monoxide (CO)
generated by burning gasses into
harmless water vapor. Bad gasses are
vented to the outside world. The process
generates a lot of humidity, so make sure
that there is sufficient air exchange to
prevent mold and mildew from growing.
• Conventional propane gas space
heaters: are usually safe (verify with the
manufacturer of your heater).
• Electric Heaters: Always let them run
outside or in the garage on high for a day
or so to burn off any oils or contaminants
before using them indoors. Click here to
view some recommended heaters for your
• Kerosene Heaters: Are notorious for
generating carbon monoxide and other
toxic substances. In addition to which, they
cause many house fires each year. It's
best to avoid kerosene in your home.
• General Recommendation:
• Whatever heating system you use, it is best to
install a carbon monoxide detector to warn you if
carbon monoxide levels rise above safe levels.
• Heaters require regular maintenance to make
sure they continue to operate properly and
• If you are using gas or oil heating systems, an
annual furnace inspection is recommended to
minimize risk to your family, your pets and your