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					What to Expect –
 Puppy to Dog
                                     Table of Content


Introduction                                            Page 1

Chapter 1 – Bringing Your Puppy Home                    Page 2 – 4

Chapter 2 – Feeding Your Puppy/Dog                      Page 5 – 8

Chapter 3 – Puppy Health                                Page 9 – 12

Chapter 4 – Socializing Your Puppy                      Page 13 – 17

Chapter 5 – Housetraining Your Puppy                    Page 18 – 20

Chapter 6 – Puppy Tricks                                Page 21 – 30

Chapter 7 – Behavior Training                           Page 31 – 38




                                       Introduction
A puppy is a juvenile dog. Born after an average of 63 days of gestation, puppies begin to nurse
almost immediately. If the litter exceeds six puppies, particularly if one or more are obvious
runts, human intervention in hand-feeding the stronger puppies is necessary to ensure that the
runts get proper nourishment and attention from the mother. As they reach one month of age,
puppies are gradually weaned and begin to eat solid food. At first, puppies spend the large
majority of their time sleeping and the rest feeding. They instinctively pile together into a heap,
and become distressed if separated from physical contact with their littermates, by even a short
distance.

Puppies are born with a fully functional sense of smell but can't open their eyes. During their
first two weeks, a puppy's senses all develop rapidly. During this stage the nose is the primary
sense organ used by puppies to find their mother's teats, and to locate their litter-mates. Puppies
open their eyes about nine to eleven days following birth.

Puppies develop very quickly during their first three months, particularly after their eyes and ears
open and they are no longer completely dependent on their mother. They play wrestling, chase,
dominance, and tug-of-war games.

Puppies are highly social animals and spend most of their waking hours interacting with either
their mother or littermates. It is important that puppies are socialized with humans, particularly
between the ages of eight and twelve weeks, so as to encourage healthy interaction and develop
the puppy's social skills around people. Puppies ideally should be exposed to as wide a variety of
friendly people as possible during this period. Dogs that do not receive adequate socialization
during this sensitive period may display fearful behavior around humans or other dogs as adults.

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For all your Pet Supplies, go to the pet store
                             Bringing Your Puppy Home
Now that you’re home with your puppy, it becomes your responsibility and challenge to educate
and socialise this puppy so that it may become a pleasant, useful, happy and well-adjusted
companion.

It is important to understand that an eight week-old pup is just a baby. He has just been separated
from his mother and litter mates, from familiar faces and surroundings. This is a BIG adventure
for him and your job is to make the experience as pleasant as possible while not overindulging
him. You should try to be reassuring and friendly, and avoid having many people over to meet
the pup. There will be plenty of time later for getting to know friends and neighbours. You need
to be careful not to overwhelm him, let him get used to his new surroundings.

You should provide a quiet area to place his crate, a place where he can rest in peace. He will
need a lot of sleep. In fact, at that age, a puppy spends more time sleeping than doing anything
else. You must never disturb or disrupt his sleep. Do not put a blanket or pillow in the crate, as
this could encourage him to relieve himself during the night.
You should puppy-proof the house, remove all sources of potential danger for the pup. Electrical
wires must be protected from his sharp teeth; small objects like coins and marbles should be
removed, plants should be out of reach, and generally anything you don’t want chewed up should
be stored safely out of his reach.
You should put his food and water bowl in a quiet area and make sure he has access to clean
water at all times.

The first thing you have to think about is your general attitude towards the pup. Most people
want their dog to be a friend, companion, playmate and guardian. If you want your dog to love
and protect you, you must first bond with him and earn his trust and respect. Raising a pup
successfully is a lot like raising children. You must determine which behaviors are acceptable,
desirable, and unacceptable. You must think of how you will encourage and nurture the
desirable, and avoid and discourage the unpleasant behaviors. You need to be consistent and
never let him get away with something he isn’t allowed to do.

One must realize that there is no use in punishing a young pup. This puppy is the equivalent a
young baby and we would never think of expecting good manners from a six-month old child,
would we? This is not the time for punishments and reprimands. This is the period for imprinting
and encouraging positive behavior. This is the best time to show the puppy that when he pleases
you, he is rewarded with attention, and this is how he will learn to want to please you. A dog that
wants to please you will be easy to train and will generally not need harsh discipline.
So if I can’t punish him, then how do I keep him from doing things I don’t want? For example
biting hands, chewing the furniture, eating shoes, peeing on the floor!!!
It is important to understand that a baby can do no wrong. He simply does what he does because
he is a puppy. It is your job and responsibility to ensure that he doesn’t get into trouble and do
things that are annoying to others or dangerous to him.
The best way to ensure that he doesn’t get into trouble is supervision. Pay constant and total
attention to the pup when he is not in his crate. If you are watching him, he can’t get in trouble.
This is also the best way to toilet-train him very quickly. By this I mean that the puppy should be
in his crate at all times if you are not actively supervising him.
This may sound harsh, but it is only for a while in the puppy’s life; he will sleep when you put
him in the crate and he will learn his place in the house. You are the boss, not the other way
around. When you have had enough, it’s time to go. If he cries, ignore him. If you cave in, you
are giving him control and losing your role as pack leader. He will not respect a weak leader and
will always seek to challenge your authority and, as he grows older, this will become more and
more problematic. This is the ideal moment in your relationship to ingrain that principle firmly in
his head. You are the boss, you decide what goes, you are a constant and fair leader, and you will
absolutely not give in or take no for an answer. That is the sort of person a dog respects. The
parameters are crystal clear; the dog knows what is acceptable and what is not. The dog is
comfortable when he knows where his place is in the pack. If you are fair and loving even in
discipline, he will respect and want to please you.

Since we agree that there is no reason to discipline a young pup, how then do we deal with
annoying habits they have?

Biting
It is a good idea to always have a toy between you and the dog when playing so that your hands
and clothes are not the object of the play, so that he directs his attacks at the toy. When you do
put your hands on the pup, it should be in a calming way, to soothe, pet, stroke him. He should
associate your touch with love and nurturing, calm and pleasure. Play games that are not
confrontational (tug, roughhousing, etc.). Encourage games that will bring you and the dog
closer to each other such as fetch, hide-and-seek, etc.


Jumping up on people
It is very annoying when people come to the door and the puppy jumps all over them. The best
way to avoid this is to put the puppy in his crate until the guests are settled in and you are ready
to focus on the pup. Then you take him out of the crate and (after peeing outside) introduce him
in a controlled setting.
You can also put him on his leash and control his jumping by keeping him at a distance if you
want him to be at the door when the guests arrive.


Chewing objects
The best way to deal with this is supervision. You must remove all objects from his grasp or
consider them fair game. If he is chewing on objects such as table or chair legs, then you can
simple say a firm NO and pick him up and remove him from the area. You can try spraying some
repellent on the surface such as Citronella or Bitter Apple available in pet supply stores. Hitting
or screaming at the pup will not make him stop: it will only make him fear and avoid you (keep
in mind we are talking about a very young puppy here, not a four month old pup).
If things seem unmanageable…call for back up!

Do not hesitate to seek help from a professional dog trainer. I recommend the trainer visit you in
your home with all the family members present. This way the trainer can best assess the situation
and see how the dog behaves in his environment. In home training may seem a bit more
expensive, but in the long run it is more efficient and addresses issues in a much more
personalised manner. Get references form your veterinarian clinic to help you find the right
trainer.

Ideally, you will have all necessary equipment before bringing home your puppy. The basics
that we recommend are as follows:

         Collar & Leash
         A Premium Puppy Food
         Natural Training Treats
         Natural Chews
         Soft Toy
         Bed
         Crate / Kennel
         Puppy Pads
         2 Water Dishes
         2 Food Dishes

       Supplies found here

Although your puppy will be happy to be in on the household action, it’s also important to
choose a long-term spot for their food dishes & crate. Allowing your pet a designated eating
area will discourage them from begging for food. Also, if space permits and your puppy’s crate
can be set up all the time you will find they will use it as a retreat.


So stability and structure is key, dogs are pack animals by nature and will thrive in an
environment where they understand their place.
                               Feeding Your Puppy-Dog


The first ingredient in your dog's food should be a specified "meat". Not a meat by-product, but
the real thing. Puppies and adult dogs were not meant to eat corn and wheat. If the first
ingredient in your dog food is a corn, wheat, meat-by-product, bone meal or anything but a real
specified type of meat, steer clear. By-products are the left-overs, such as the eyes, hooves, skin,
feathers and feet that are not good for human consumption (unless the dog food specifically
states otherwise.) Beware of ingredients that do not list exactly what it is, such as words like,
"animal" and "meat" as opposed to "chicken", "beef", "duck", etc...

The first ingredient on the label should represent what the dog food is most made out of, but
beware this is not always the case...

Using chicken as an example, when a dog food lists a meat in the ingredients such as "chicken" it
is going by the weight in the meats raw state, before it was cooked.

Chicken in its raw state weighs about 80% more than it does once it is cooked and processed into
a dry pellet. Once it is processed you are left with only 20% of the actual meat.

The word "meal" in an ingredient is something that was weighed after the water was taken out.
For example "chicken meal" is chicken which is weighed after it has been cooked and the water
has already been taken out, giving you more meat and protein per weight volume.

Therefore be aware that if the ingredients read "chicken" as first and "corn meal" as second, the
food may contain more corn than chicken. Corn is a filler that a dog's body does not utilize well,
if at all. The corn gets pooped out and the dog must eat more food in order to get enough protein
and nutrients that their bodies can use from the other ingredients in the food.

Take a look at your dog's teeth. Notice that he does not have any grinding molars. They are all
ripping canines. This tells us that dogs were not meant to eat grains, as they lack the teeth to
grind them up. Dogs have pointy canines for ripping into meat. A lot of dogs develop skin
problems and other health issues, including bloat, due to the grains they are being fed in their
dog food.

It is best to feed dogs a grain free diet. While the better quality dog food may cost more, the dog
can eat less of it since their bodies use more of what they are eating producing less waste. Not to
mention the vet bill if your dog develops issues from consuming a low quality food. Be sure to
read the ingredients label of the dog food you are using. You may have trouble finding a good
quality food at a grocery store and may have to go to your local pet store to find a higher grade
food.
A poor diet can also cause a dog to shed more, have a dull coat and have body odor.

How much should I feed my dog?




Daily basic feeding guide for puppies and adult dogs. An
individual dog's requirements may differ from this chart. It is best
to consult with your vet about the specific needs of your pet.




          Puppies should not be separated from their mother before they are 8 weeks old.
          Puppies who leave their mothers sooner have a rougher time adjusting and a higher
          incidence of illnesses. We do not know if it is due to weakened immunity or
          mourning the premature loss of its family. Their mother's milk provides them with
          the nutrition and antibodies they need to become healthy dogs. At three to four
The first
          weeks, puppies should begin eating some solid food. You can try mixing three parts
8 weeks
          food with one part water or puppy replacement milk. This will make the food easier
          for the puppy to digest. If your puppy begins eating a little solid food before they
          leave their mother they will have an easier time adjusting when you bring them
          home. One way to tell if a puppy is ready to come home with you is if it prefers
          human company over their mom or siblings.
           Feed your puppy 3-4 times a day. Puppies have different nutritional needs than adult
           dogs. Choose a puppy food that provides the appropriate balance of nutrients your
 6 to 8
           puppy needs. Be sure they are getting the right amount of protein and calcium, and
 weeks
           the proper amount of calories. Check the label to determine if you are feeding your
           puppy a balanced diet. A specified meat should be the first ingredient on the label.
 After 8
           Feed your puppy twice a day.
 weeks
           Your puppy will be teething. He may become a finicky eater or lose his appetite.
 3 to 6
           Keep feeding him nutritious food twice a day. If he has an upset stomach for more
 months
           than one or two days, take him to the veterinarian.
          Your puppy may look all grown up but he is still a puppy. He should still be fed a
          high quality food for the added nutrition. Note, in some very high quality foods the
          company does not make a separate food for puppies because the food is of such a
6 months
          high quality that it provides for both puppy and adult equally. For example a real
to 1 year
          human grade chicken is what it is for all ages. If you are feeding a puppy food ask
          your veterinarian when you should switch to adult food. Make sure the adult food
          you switch to is still a balanced high quality diet with the first ingredient being a
              specified meat and that it is not a by-product.


    Daily basic feeding guide for adult dogs. An individual dog's requirements may
    differ from this chart. It is best to look at the directions of the food you are
    feeding for their recommendations. This chart is a general reference. The
    feeding directions are based on using an 8 oz. measuring cup. Puppies can be
    fed up to 1 times the highest amount listed in their category. It is sometimes
    best to split the amount into two or more different feedings rather than just one
    big meal, Often twice a day. Puppies should be fed more often than adult dogs.
    When adding in a can food cut the dry by up to half the amount and substitute
    the same volume that you cut with can food, so the dog is getting the same
    amount of food, some dry and some wet. Note, if you are feeding a good
    quality dog food you will be able to feed less as the dog's body will utilize more
    and poop out less. If you are feeding a food that contains a lot of fillers (grain
    fillers such as corn are often used by some companies) you may have to feed
    more in order for the dog to get the proper amount of protein.

                                  Weight As An       Dry
         Typical Breed                                            Dry Food Mixed With Can Food
                                   Adult Dog         Food
Chihuahua, Yorkshire                                 1/4 to     Cut dry up to ½ the amount &
                                 Up to 10 pounds
Terrier, Toy Poodle                                   3/4       substitute the same volume with a can
Miniature Poodle, Scottish                          3/4 to 1 Cut dry up to ½ the amount &
                                  10-25 pounds
Terrier                                               cup    substitute the same volume with a can
Cocker Spaniel, Beagle,                              1-2        Cut dry up to ½ the amount &
                                  25-50 pounds
Springer Spaniel                                     cups       substitute the same volume with a can
Collie, Boxer, Labrador,                            2 - 2 ½ Cut dry up to ½ the amount &
                                  50-75 pounds
Golden Retriever                                     cups substitute the same volume with a can
Great Dane, Malamute, St.                            2-4        Cut dry up to ½ the amount &
                                 Over 75 pounds
Bernard, Mastiff                                     cups       substitute the same volume with a can

.

Good Basic Feeding Tips

                 Dogs should be fed at the same time every day. Feeding at the same time will
                  keep your dog on a bathroom schedule. Ask your vet how many times a day you
                  should feed your dog.

                 Feed your dog the same type and brand of food every day. Unlike humans, a dog's
                  digestive system cannot handle changes in food. It can cause upset stomach and
                  diarrhea.
              When switching to a new food gradually transition him to a new food by mixing
               portions of both foods until you slowly phase the old food out. Your dog may
               experience diarrhea if his food is suddenly changed.

              If you are mixing water to dry food you should mix 4 parts dry food to 1 part
               water.

              Keep fresh Drinking water available at all times. Change the water at least once a
               day, more for dogs who drool.

              Keep food and water bowls clean.

              Don't over feed your dog.

              Monitor your dog's weight and activity level, and make feeding adjustments as
               necessary.

 If your dog has loose stool feeding sweet potato's is a natural stool hardener. Unlike some
medicines, giving too many will not make them constipated. They sell sweet potato chips for
dogs in a lot of pet supply stores.



Interesting bits of info...

Dogs have about 1,700 taste buds. Humans have about 9000 taste buds, and cats have about 470.

Dogs have water taste buds, something humans do not have.

Dogs do not crave salt the way humans do.

More info from our Blog




                                       Puppy Health
If you have acquired a puppy, or if you are a breeder setting up a program for the new owners of
your puppies, you might be overwhelmed by all the things you need to do. Keeping puppies
healthy is really not that hard if you have a plan. Review each section on the next few pages and
set up a program to satisfy each point. Keep your plan handy for reference so you can keep your
puppies on track as they mature.

Worms

Parasitology experts remind us that every puppy is born with roundworms. These come from the
mother when worm cysts sitting dormant in the bitch’s muscle tissue spring to life when exposed
to the hormones of pregnancy. These larvae burrow, migrating through the uterine wall, directly
into the developing puppies.

Once in the puppy, roundworms migrate to the intestine where they become adults. Worms steal
nutrition from the puppy. In large numbers, they can stunt growth and even block the intestines.
Wormy puppies have a characteristic distended belly.

Worms should be treated before they have a chance to mature into egg-laying adults (and keep
the cycle going). Ideally, puppies are dewormed at two, four, six and eight weeks of age, and
then placed on a monthly regimen. After that, veterinarians adapt their deworming programs to
the worm prevalence in their practice area. Deworming products for puppies are safe with
limited, if any, side effects.

What to do:
Plan a deworming protocol – select a product and decide when to give it.



Nutrition




          A growing puppy is very sensitive to changes in nutrition. A good analogy is a
racehorse. If he’s walking slowly, you can push him from the side and not very much happens.
On the other hand, if he’s running at full speed and you apply the same force, you can easily
upset him. A puppy grows at full speed. Any imbalance in nutrition can push him off the path of
optimal growth.

A puppy’s diet must be balanced. The fat and protein content must satisfy energy needs and
promote growth. The calcium and phosphorus percentage should be high enough to meet the
requirements for bone development. There is also the quality aspect. Feeding a diet with high
digestibility means there is less poop to clean up. It also makes housetraining easier.
Any dog, especially a large breed, should be kept lean. This does two things: It reduces the
incidence of hip dysplasia, and lengthens their lives. Don’t let puppies get fat.

What to do:
Choose a food designed for puppies and control the amount fed.




Fleas




             Fleas love puppies. It’s not uncommon to see just a few fleas on a bitch while her
puppies are horribly infested. Flea eggs fall off infested dogs and cats into the environment. They
hatch into larvae, change to pupae and eventually become blood-sucking adults.

A puppy with a high number of fleas can lose so much blood that it can’t meet its oxygen needs
and dies from asphyxiation. Even mild infestations can cause poor health and pass on parasites.

Fleas are the intermediate host for tapeworms. As the puppy suckles, it can ingest a tapeworm-
carrying flea from the mother. The flea is digested in the pup’s stomach acid, releasing the
tapeworm to infest the puppy.

Fleas are easy to diagnose. You can find them running on the skin, or you might see flea feces (it
looks like black pepper) at the base of the hairs.

We are limited in what we can use to control fleas on very young puppies. A flea comb, though
labour intensive, is safe at any age. In fact, when a pup is young and has a thin, short coat, it is
very effective. Once pups reach four weeks old, you can use Capstar® tablets (Novartis).

Most products for flea control (topical and oral) can be used once pups reach six or eight weeks.
Make sure you check the label.

What to do:
Use a flea-control product compatible with the puppy’s age.



Teething
                Puppies are born without teeth, but that quickly changes. The first ―baby‖
(deciduous) teeth appear at three weeks of age. These are replaced starting at four months of age,
beginning with the incisors (or peg teeth). The two central incisors at the front of the mouth fall
out first. As time goes on, the rest of the incisors, the molars, and finally the canine teeth (at five
months of age) are replaced.

During teething, you can reduce discomfort by providing chew toys. Frozen carrots, or face
cloths that are rolled up, soaked and frozen (then taken away once softened), can help numb the
gums.

If teeth do not fall out, they should be removed once teething has finished or by six months of
age.

What to do:
Provide puppies with suitable chew toys during teething.



Spaying and neutering




            The sterilization of dogs has many different names. Spaying is the term we use for
removal of the ovaries in the female dog. If the surgery includes removal of the uterus, it is
called an ovariohysterectomy.

Neutering can apply to both males and females as it describes the removal of the sex organs
(ovaries or testicles); however, many veterinarians tend to use ―neutering‖ (or the equivalent
term, ―castration‖) to mean sterilization of a male dog.

The traditional time for spaying and neutering is six months of age. This allows teething to finish
(retained baby teeth can be removed at the same time, while they are anaesthetized), but it also
catches females before they come into their first heat and males before they develop unwanted
behaviours.

However, there are differing opinions on the best time to sterilize. Some veterinarians do the
surgery at eight weeks before the pups travel to their new homes. On the other hand, others insist
it should be done later to avoid maturation problems. Talk to your veterinarian for current
recommendations on this topic.
What to do:
If you don’t plan on eventually breeding your dog, consider sterilization.



Heartworm

Heartworms infest the arteries leading from the heart to the lungs. Although this parasite is a
concern only in certain areas of Canada, if it happens to be where you live, you need to take
steps to stop your dog from acquiring it. Heartworm can trigger heart failure, but just as
importantly, infested dogs act as a reservoir for mosquitoes to carry the disease to other dogs,
infecting them as well.

Heartworm is prevented by using monthly medication (oral or topical), or an injection that lasts
for six months. In some cases, dogs are tested for the parasite prior to starting medication.

What to do:
If heartworm is a concern in your area, get your dog on a preventive.



Vaccines

Vaccines provide puppies with needed protection to fight disease. Standard protocol is to
administer the vaccines at eight, 12 and 16 weeks of age. However, many different schedules are
used.

There are also just as many differences in which vaccines veterinarians give to puppies. The core
vaccine is the distemper/parvovirus/hepatitis/parainfluenza combination. Most dogs are also
given a rabies vaccination, but they must be over 12 weeks of age.

Other vaccines are administered based on the risk of contracting the disease. These include
bordetella (ken-nel cough), giardia, leptospirosis, Lyme disease and coronavirus.

What to do:
With your veterinarian, plan a vaccine protocol for best protection.

Find more books in the book club
                                 Socializing Your Puppy


Socialization and puppy training are of utmost importance as puppyhood is the most important
and critical time in your dog’s development. What you do and do not right now will affect your
dog’s behavior forever.

A properly socialized puppy is well-adjusted and makes a good companion. It is neither
frightened by nor aggressive towards anyone or anything it would normally meet in day to day
living. An un-socialized dog is untrustworthy and unwanted liability. They often become fear
biters. Often they like to fight with other dogs. They are difficult to train and are generally
unpleasant to be around. Un-socialized dogs cannot adapt to new situations and a simple routine
visit to the vet is a nightmare not only for the dog itself, but for everyone involved. Don’t let this
happen to you and your dog. Start socializing your puppy NOW!

The Cornwell University College of Veterinary Medicine agrees that the socialization period
lasts up to about 12 weeks (3 months) of age. However, at 12 weeks, the puppy must continue
socialization to refine its social skills. Socialization most easily occurs before the puppy is 3
months old. Any later than that and it becomes an excruciatingly difficult and time-consuming
process that very few owners have the time, energy, money or patience to cope with.

Make sure that each of the following events are pleasant and non-threatening. If your puppy’s
first experience with something is painful and frightening, you will be defeating your purpose. In
fact, you will be creating a phobia that will often last a lifetime. It’s better to go slow and assure
your puppy is not frightened or injured than to rush and force your pup to meet new things and
people.

Socialization Do’s

      Invite friends over to meet your pup. Include men, women, youngsters, oldsters, different
       ethnic backgrounds, etc
      Invite friendly, healthy, vaccinated dogs, puppies, and even cats to your home to meet
       and play with your new puppy. Take your puppy to the homes of these pets, preferably
       with dog-friendly cats.
      Carry your pup to shopping centers, parks, school playgrounds, etc. Places where there
       are crowds of people and plenty of activity.
      Take your puppy for short, frequent rides in the car. Stop the car and let your puppy
       watch the world go by through the window.
      Introduce your puppy to umbrellas, bags, boxes, the vacuum cleaner, etc. Encourage your
       puppy to explore and investigate his environment.
      Get your puppy accustomed to seeing different and unfamiliar objects by creating your
       own. Set a chair upside down. Lay the trash can (empty) on its side. Set up the iron board
       right side up one day and upside down the next day…..get the idea.
      Introduce your puppy to new and various sounds. Loud, obnoxious sounds should be
       introduced from a distance and gradually brought closer.
      Accustom your puppy to being brushed, bathed, inspected, having its nails clipped, teeth
       and ear cleaning and all the routines of grooming and physical examination.
      Introduce your puppy to stairs, his own collar and leash. Introduce anything and
       everything you want your puppy to be comfortable with and around.



Socialization Don’ts

      Do not put your puppy on the ground where unknown animals have access. This is where
       your puppy can pick up diseases. Wait until your puppy’s shots are completed. Do not let
       your pup socialize with dogs that appear sick or dogs that you don’t know, they may not
       be vaccinated.
      Do not reward fearful behavior. In a well-meaning attempt to sooth, encourage or calm
       the puppy when it appears frightened, we often unintentionally reward the behavior. It’s
       normal for the puppy to show some signs of apprehension when confronting anything
       new and different.
      Do not allow the experience to be harmful, painful or excessively frightening. This can
       cause lifetime phobias in your dog.
      Do not force or rush your puppy. Let your puppy take things at his own pace. Your job is
       to provide the opportunity.
      Do not do too much at one time. Young puppies need a lot of sleep and tire quickly. It is
       much more productive to have frequent and very brief exposures than occasional
       prolonged exposures.
      DO NOT WAIT! Every day that goes by is an opportunity of a lifetime that is lost
       forever. You can never get these days back. If socialization does not happen now, it never
       will.

Common Excuses For Not Socializing Your Puppy




                   "Our last dog was perfectly trustworthy."
Maybe you were just lucky and picked a born-to-be-perfect puppy. Or maybe you were an
excellent trainer. But can you still remember what you did back then and do you still have the
time to do it?

"Our last dog just loved kids!"

One young family doted on their first dog and devoted a lot of time to his training. The whole
family attended puppy classes and held puppy parties at home for the children's friends. So many
children spent time playing games and reward-training the dog, that of course the dog loved
children. The dog enjoyed his sunset years proudly watching the children grow up and graduate
from high school. By the time the parents got their second dog, the children had all left the nest.
The new puppy grew up in a world without children. All went well for many years — that is,
until grandchildren appeared on the scene.

"He's fine with me."

Wonderful! Certainly the first step of socialization is to make sure the puppy is perfectly friendly
with the family. But it is imperative that the pup become Mr. Sociable with friends, neighbors,
visitors, and strangers so that he does not object to being examined by the veterinarian or
playfully grabbed and hugged by children.

"Our pup gets more than enough socialization with our family."

Not true! In order to be accepting of strangers as an adult, your puppy needs to meet at least three
unfamiliar people each day, not the same people over and over again.

"I don't have any friends to help me socialize my puppy."

Well, you soon will. Socializing your puppy will do wonders for your social life. Invite your
neighbors over to meet the pup. Invite people over from work. Check out the puppy classes in
your area and invite over some puppy owners from there. They will more than appreciate the
problems you are about to encounter in the future.
If you cannot get people to come to your home to meet the puppy, take him to safe places to
meet people.

"I don't want my dogs to accept food treats from strangers."

Perhaps your concern is that someone may poison the dog. As a rule, dogs are only poisoned
when left alone in backyards — because they are not housetrained and therefore cannot be left
safely indoors — or when let loose to range and roam. But you are not inviting dog-hating
strangers to interact with your puppy. Instead, you are inviting over selected family, neighbors,
and friends. Regardless, every puppy should be taught never to touch or take any object,
including food, from any person's hand unless first the puppy hears "Rover, Take it," or some
such command. Having learned these basic manners, your dog will only accept food from people
who know his name and who know the appropriate take it command — namely, from family and
friends.
"I don't want my dog to like strangers. I want him to protect me."

Oh, come on … try telling that to your veterinarian, or to your children's friends' parents.
However, if you mean you want your dog to perform some protective function, that's a different
matter. But surely you are not going to leave it up to a poorly socialized dog to make decisions
regarding whom to protect, whom to protect against, and how to protect. Any good protection
dog has first been super-socialized to the point of total confidence, and then carefully taught
how, when, and whom to protect.
Training your dog to bark or growl on command is a more than sufficient protective deterrent.
Your dog may be taught to vocalize in certain situations: for example, when somebody steps
onto your property or touches your car. Alarm barkers are extremely effective deterrents,
especially if they do not bark when people simply walk by your house or car.

"I don't have the time."

Then give the puppy to someone who does have the time! This puppy may still be saved if
someone is willing to take the time to socialize him.

"I need to dominate my pup to get him to respect me."

Not necessarily. Or, not at all. If you physically force and dominate your puppy, he won't respect
you. He may heed your commands — grudgingly and fearfully — but he certainly won't respect
you. More likely, your dog will grow to resent you.

"Dogs of this breed are particularly hard to handle."

Using this excuse to give up on handling, gentling, and socialization exercises is too silly for
words. If your research on dog breeds has convinced you that you truly have a difficult breed,
you should double or triple the socialization and handling exercises, wind back all developmental
deadlines, and start each batch of exercises earlier. Strangely enough, though, I have heard this
excuse given for just about every breed of dog. As soon as you think that your chosen breed is
too much dog for you, seek help immediately. Find a trainer who can teach you how to handle
your puppy before you cause irreparable damage to his temperament.

"My spouse/significant other/parent/child selected the most dominant pup in the litter."

Did you remember the cardinal rule of puppy selection, that all family members completely
agree? Well, it's a bit late for that now, and so I would suggest the same advice as above. As
soon as you suspect you have a difficult pup, double or triple the socialization and handling
exercises and start each batch of exercises earlier. Additionally, you might consider learning how
to train your spouse, significant other, parent, or child.

"Something is genetically wrong with the puppy."

Same advice as above: as soon as you suspect your puppy has some kind of organic problem,
double or triple the socialization and handling exercises and start each batch of exercises earlier.
It's a bit late for genetic screening, and, in any case, what else can you do —t weak the dog's
genes? Many people use breed, dominance, or organic conditions as an excuse to give up on the
pup — and as an excuse to not socialize and train him. In reality, socialization and training is the
puppy's only hope. Your puppy needs socialization and training. Lots of it! Right away!
Regardless of breed and breeding, and regardless of your puppy's socialization and training prior
to coming to your home, as of right now, any change in your puppy's temperament, behavior, or
manners is completely dependent on how you socialize and train him. Work with your puppy and
he will get better. Don't work with your puppy and he will get worse. Your puppy's future is
entirely in your hands.

"He's just a puppy!" or, "He's sooooo cute!" or, "He's only playing!" or, "He'll grow out of it!"

Of course your puppy is only playing — play-barking, play-growling, play-biting, play-fighting,
play-protecting a bone, or playing tug-of-war. If you just laugh at him, your pup will continue
playing the aggression game as he grows older, and in no time at all, your fully grown adult dog
will be playing for real.
Puppy play is all important. Play is essential if a puppy is to learn the social relevance of the vast
jumble of behaviors in his doggy repertoire, specifically the appropriateness and
inappropriateness of each behavior in each setting. In a sense, play enables a pup to learn what
he can get away with. What you need to do is teach your puppy the rules of the game. And the
more rules he learns in puppyhood, the safer he will be as an adult dog.
Puppy barking and growling are quite normal and acceptable, just as long as you can stop the
noise when you wish. Stopping an eight-week-old puppy from barking or growling is pretty easy.
Be still yourself, so the puppy may calm down more easily. Say, "Puppy, Shush!" and waggle a
food treat in front of his nose. Say, "Good dog," and offer the treat when the pup eventually
shushes. Similarly, tug-of-war is a normal and acceptable game, just as long as your pup never
initiates the game and you can get the pup to release the object and sit at any time. Both are easy
rules to teach to an eight-week-old puppy. When playing tug-of-war, instruct your puppy to
release the object and sit at least every minute. Periodically stop tugging, say, "Thank you," and
waggle a food treat in front of his nose. When the puppy releases the object to sniff the treat,
praise him, and ask him to sit. When he sits, praise him profusely, offer the food treat, and then
resume the game.
                              Housetraining Your Puppy




               When people are looking to begin housetraining a puppy they will usually find
their way to the internet in search of ways to begin potty training a puppy. Potty training your
puppy is not as difficult as one may think.

As a new puppy owner you need to realize that your puppy is going to be looking at you to train
them; regardless of whether you are considering starting pitbull puppy training or lab puppy
training you are going to realize that the training will be basically the same.

As a new puppy owner you have to find ways to get the behavior across that you want them to
begin displaying. While this sounds very difficult the truth is that house training a puppy is not
that difficult; especially if you start out in the right direction.

Most people who will say that house training a puppy is difficult tend to make a couple mistakes.
We have taken the time to provide you with a list of the tips that can make house training
puppies a lot easier for you. If you are noticing yourself having difficulties training your dog;
then you may need to use the tips below to make the process easier.

Puppy House Training - requires patience, vigilance and consistency on the part of the owner.
First, believe! You can house train your puppy to go only when and where you want. Believe it
and make it a reality with patience, vigilance and consistency!! The following are tried and true
steps to make the task much easier:

1) Buy a Crate with a Divider - puppies have a basic desire to keep their den clean and will
avoid peeing or pooping where they have to sleep. The idea with the crate is to make it the
puppy's den, its safe haven and comfortable place to sleep and relax. DO NOT make the crate a
punishment area and never put the puppy into the crate as punishment for making
a mistake. You want the puppy, and the dog later on in life, to love its crate.

One tip: buy a crate large enough to house your dog comfortably when full
grown. Get a crate divider to make the area available to your puppy smaller when
young, so there isn't enough room to pee on one side and sleep on the other. As
your dog grows, move the divider to provide more room for it to sleep. This
avoids the necessity to buy a larger crate later on.

2) Pick Your Spot - You will decide where your dog goes, remember! We suggest a spot in your
backyard that is easy to access and clean. Some dog owners make a square area (say 4' by 4') that
is filled with gravel or wood chips and consistently take their dog to that area until it knows to do
so on its own (i.e.) patience, vigilance and consistency. Others are fine with the whole back yard
or select an object to train the dog to do its business on like a Pee Post.
One caution we have in this regard is to pick a spot on your own property. For one thing, your
neighbor might get upset if you designate his favorite tree as the spot! More seriously, you will
want to protect your dog from deadly diseases that can be transmitted through infected bodily
waste. Puppies are especially susceptible before they have received all of their shots. If you pick
a spot in your own yard, ideally within a fence, other dogs won't be peeing there.

3) The Bathroom Scent Trick - dogs or puppies like to pee where they or others have peed
before and with their acute sense of smell they can find an old bathroom where no human nose
could. There are two ways to use this to your easy advantage: i) buy a pheromone product such
as the Puppy Trainer Housebreaking Aid which contains those attractive scents that dogs like to
pee at, and use that around the spot that you have picked for your dog to do its business at; or ii)
the next time your dog pees, soak it up with a towel or cloth and save it (in the garage maybe).
When you take your dog out again, bring the soiled cloth and put it in the spot you have decided
your dog will pee at. Chances are your dog will intently sniff the cloth and immediately wet it
again. Repeat with the cloth until peeing in that spot becomes a habit.

4) When Your Puppy or Dog will Pee - sorry, but in the very early going this isn't going to be
up to you and you might think of it like nursing a new born child. A puppy's bladder is very
small and until the age of 4-5 months it can't hold much of anything for very long. If you are a
first time dog owner, please sit down for this next bit of news - up until 4-5 months of age, a
puppy needs to go to the bathroom about 12 times per day or every 2 hours on average. Yes,
means you will have to get out of bed quite often to take the puppy out, and no amount of
scolding or information provided here is going to change the size of your puppy's bladder. Let's
just say, it is one of the many joys of bringing a new puppy into your home!!

To minimize accidents and speed the housetraining process, take your puppy out often and at
regular times. Make those times when, or just before, a puppy will typically pee but try to do it
on a schedule you set. For example, decide when you will feed your puppy each day, play with
it, take it out and let it sleep in its crate. Try to do so at the same times each day so the puppy
starts to get a feel for the schedule. As your puppy grows, it will be able to go for longer periods
without peeing and you can adjust accordingly. The main thing is to condition your puppy to go
when you want it to.

5) Potty on Command - say the same phrase each time your dog does his business in the chosen
spot and praise him lavishly for doing so. Ideally, the puppy will come to associate the phrase
with doing its business and might well learn to potty on command. You will appreciate that on
cold winter nights! We suggest a phrase that you wouldn't use for anything else like "Go Poop"
rather than something like "Honey, our visitors are here" otherwise your dog might do his
business on command someday at a most inopportune time!

6) Vigilance and Consistency - in the early going it is important that you watch your puppy
every moment that it is out of its crate and provide as few opportunities to make mistakes as
possible. If you see any hint that your puppy might need to go, even if it is not on the schedule,
quickly take it outside to the spot. When it does its business correctly, praise it immensely, being
careful not to turn potty time into play time.
If you do take your eyes off your puppy and he makes a mistake, do not scold. It was your
mistake! Simply place your puppy in its crate and quietly clean up the mess. Scold yourself for
not being vigilant in watching your dog at all times, and remind yourself to consistently get him
to the chosen spot before he goes.

For mistakes you must get rid of the odor when cleaning so that your dog can't smell his old
bathroom and do it again in that spot.

7) Patience and Understanding - puppies need a lot of patience and if you find yourself yelling
or getting frustrated, relax! Your puppy's bladder needs to develop physically for one thing. For
another, it needs to grow mentally and it will take a while for it to figure out what it is supposed
to do. It is up to you to be patient and understanding while you allow this development to take
place and ingrain the basics into your puppy while it does.

Follow these simple steps and we're sure that you will be blessed with a little darling!
                                        Puppy Tricks


Love your dog - Teach your puppy a trick a day!

Love your dog: teach him a trick a day! Learn how to teach your dog to speak, roll over, shake
hands, play dead - and much more, for the fun of your dog, yourself and your friends.

There are Five key behaviors every puppy should learn:

Sit: Hold a treat in front of your puppy’s nose and motion up and back at a 45-degree angle.
Your puppy will follow the treat, bending its head back until it sits. Say yes or click, and then
treat. Repeat this a few times. Next, show your dog the treat, but don’t use it as a lure. Wait until
the dog sits on its own, then click and treat. Repeat this until your dog immediately sits every
time you show it a treat.

Leave It: Hold an object in front of you, in the palm of your hand. When your puppy reaches for
the object, close your hand, pull it away and say, Leave it. Repeat this step until your puppy
stops reaching for the object. Then, place the object on the floor. If your puppy reaches for it,
cover it with your foot or hand. When your puppy consistently leaves the object alone, add the
cue, Leave it just before you present the object. As soon as it backs off, click and say, Leave it.

Lie Down: Have your puppy sit. Hold a treat in front of its nose, and motion with it straight
down to the floor between the paws. Your pup most likely will follow the treat to the floor, lying
down in the process. As soon as your puppy lies down, click and treat.

Stay: Use this in conjunction with the Sit command. As your puppy sits, hold your open palm in
front of its face and say, Stay, while you hold the leash in your other hand. When your pup stays
for a few seconds, say, Good stay and treat. Repeat a few times. Gradually, extend the time your
puppy stays.

Come: Turn training into play time by using the classic children’s game of hide-and-seek to
reinforce the Come command. Practice this game inside your house. Have someone hold your
puppy while you hide in the house. Then call your puppy by saying its name and Come! You
may need to repeat your puppy’s name a few times until it reaches you. Click and treat. This is a
fun way to teach the Come command, and it also teaches persistence in your puppy’s search for
you definitely a good trait should you and your puppy get separated outdoors.

Follow our simple How-to Guide and make your dog easily learn even the most difficult tricks.
Shake Hands                                            TIP:
                                       After a while, say, "Shake hands,"
Start by having your dog sit. Say,      but don't take his paw. See if he
"Shake hands," and take his paw         raises his paw by himself. If not,
with your hand. Hold his paw and        keep showing him what to do by
say, "Good dog!" Let go of his         saying, "Shake hands," and taking
paw. Do this a few times every        his paw with your hand. Your dog is
day.                                      not slow; he is just learning!




Turn Around

Start by having your dog stand up                        TIP:
facing you. Let your dog see a        After some practice, hold the treat in
treat in your hand. Stand still and    front of you so your dog can see it
say, "Turn around". Lead the dog's      and say, "Turn around," but don't
nose around to the left (clockwise)    lead his nose. See if he is ready to
with the treat so he walks in a        turn around by himself and get the
circle. When he comes back to             treat. Pretty soon, he will turn
where he's facing you again, say,        around faster than you can say
"Good dog!" and give him the                          'Lassie!"
treat.




Crawl

Start by having your dog lie down.
Hold a treat just in front of his
nose and say, "Crawl." If he starts                  TIP:
to stand up, say, "No,                   Your dog must know 'Down' '
down...crawl." Pull the treat away,      before he can learn this trick.
keeping it low, near the ground
and say, "Crawl." When your dog
moves even an inch or two
without standing up, praise him
and say, "Good dog! Crawl."
Speak
                                                        TIP:
                                        You can't make a dog bark, but you
Choose a game that your dog loves
                                        can get him happy and excited so he
to play, like catch with a ball, or
                                         wants to bark. After a while, your
hide and seek with a toy. Then get
                                            dog will bark when you say,
him excited by saying, "Let's play!
                                                      "Speak."
Want to play?" and show him the
ball or toy. Jump and act silly so he
                                          Caution! If you have a dog that
barks and then say, "Good dog,
                                         already causes trouble because of
speak!" Then play the game as his
                                         his barking, you might not want to
reward for learning "Speak".
                                           encourage this behavior. If you
                                         decide it's ok to teach it, be sure to
                                                 teach "Quiet", too.




Take A Nap


Have your dog lie down on his
tummy. As you gently roll him over
on his side, say, "Take A Nap."                         TIP:
While he is lying on his side,           You can use the treat to lure your
keeping his head on the floor, say,       dog into a lying down position.
"Take A Nap." Don't give him a          Don't give your dog a reward while
treat. Encourage him to stay there      he is lying down. Give him a treat
for a couple of seconds. Then say,       after he has completed the trick.
"Ok" or "Wake up!", let him stand
up, and give him his reward.




Beg                                                      TIP:
                                         This is a hard trick for most dogs.
Have your dog sit, facing you.          Wait a little longer each time before
Hold his favorite treat just above      giving the treat, but be careful not to
his head and tell him, "Say              let your dog fall over on his back.
please." Your dog will probably          You are helping your dog develop
lift his front feet off the ground to     his balance. Be kind and only do
reach the treat. As soon as the feet           this a couple of times.
are lifted, even a little bit, give
him the treat.



Kiss

Here's an easy one: Every time your dog                       TIP:
licks your face, say, "Give me a kiss.        Tricks like this work because you
Good boy! Give me a kiss." If he isn't a     put words with something your dog
licker, put a little peanut butter on your    does. Pretty soon your dog hears
cheek and say, "Give me a kiss." When        "Give me a kiss," and thinks about
he licks it off say, "Give me a kiss,"        licking your face. Then you give
again.                                        him a hug, rub his ears, and say,
                                                 "Good boy!" Dogs love that.




Roll Over

Start by having your dog lie down
                                                                TIP:
on his belly. You can stand over
                                              Only roll your dog on soft surfaces
him or kneel beside him. Using a
                                                like carpet or grass so he doesn't
treat, hold it by his nose, and then
                                              hurt his back. Some dogs don't like
move it around and behind him, so
                                               to roll over. It can be a little scary
that he lies on his side and then
                                             for them to put their belly up. Try it
rolls over. Tell him what a great
                                             a few times and but if it's not fun for
dog he is!
                                                 your dog, choose another trick.




Fetch                                                          TIP:
                                             After your dog has figured out what
If your dog doesn't fetch naturally,            he has to do to get a treat, start
have an adult cut a slit in a tennis         throwing the ball two times in a row
ball (a smaller, rubber ball if that          without giving him the treat. What
is too big). Put some treats inside           you are trying to do is give him the
the tennis ball. Show your dog that          treats less and less often so someday
there are treats in there, and give          he won't need the treats in the ball to
her one. Then, throw the ball. In                            fetch it.
the beginning, run with her and get
the ball; then give her the treat.
Soon you will be able to throw the
ball and she will go get it (because
she wants the treat!).




Say Hello                              TIP:
                                       Only give your dog the treat after
Start by sitting on a chair. While     you have released him. Increase the
holding a treat, put your hand         time his chin is touching your leg,
between your knees and encourage       so eventually your dog will keep it
your dog to get it. As soon as your    there while you pet him. Then
dog's chin touches your leg, say       release him and reward him. Your
"Say Hello!". Then say "Release"       dog will soon charm your friends
or "OK" and give him the treat         with this trick!
after he lifts his head.




Go Back                                                 TIP:
                                        If your dog doesn't walk back in a
This is an easy one! Stand facing       straight line, practice up against a
your dog and as you walk toward         wall or in a narrow hallway. After
him, say "Go Back". He will want       your dog is walking backward with
to get out of the way and will         you, try walking toward him only a
automatically walk backwards!          step or two. Eventually, you will be
                                           able to stand still and say "Go
                                                       Back".




Take a Bow                                        TIP (method 1):
                                         Tricks like this work because you
(Method 1)                             put words with something your
                                      dog does. It may take some dogs
When you see your dog take a           longer than others to figure this
big stretch, with his head down       one out. Some dogs learn it in a
low, say, "Take a bow." Every         week and some take years...yes,
time he wakes up and stretches,       years! But one day you will say,
say, "Take a bow." Someday              "Take a bow," and maybe, just
you will say, "Take a bow." and       maybe, your dog will take a bow.
your dog will take a big stretch,
but it will look like he is
bowing. As soon as he is
finished, give him the treat.

(Method 2)                                      TIP (method 2):
                                         If you feed your dog the treat
With your dog in a stand              while he is in the bowing position,
position, take a treat and hold it    in the future he won't bow until he
near the floor, under his nose.        sees the treat in your hand. If he
As your dog reaches down to get        learns that the treat comes later,
it (he may try to lie down), slip     he'll be willing to perform for you
your hand under his belly to           without it right there all the time.
hold his rear end up. Hold him
in that position and say, "Take a
bow." Keep the treat right by his
nose, but don't feed him. Stay
there for just a second, release
him, and then feed the treat.




Yawn                                                 TIP:
                                     Here's one of those tricks that your
Every time you see your dog             dog has to perform before he
yawn, say the command you want        actually learns it. Hopefully, you
to use like "Give us a yawn.", or      have a dog that yawns a lot. Be
"Are you sleepy?". If he yawns        patient. This one can take a long
enough and hears those words         time. Be sure to really praise your
enough, he will eventually yawn       pup when he yawns - he'll thinks
whenever he hears those words.              he's doing something totally
                                          wonderful. And eventually he will
                                                         be!




Wave
                                                           TIP:
Your dog should know how to
                                           At first your dog may not lift her
shake hands before learning this
                                         paw very high. But once she realizes
trick. Face your dog and hold out
                                          that you're going to give her a treat
your hand as if you are going to
                                          if she holds it up there, she'll get it.
shake. When your dog lifts her
                                           You may have to tease her a little
paw to shake, don't grab it, just
                                         with your hand so she thinks you are
pull back your hand, and say
                                            going to shake with her. Waving
"Wave". Then give your dog a
                                         your hand a little may help to get her
treat.
                                          paw into a waving motion as well.




Quiet                                                     TIP:
                                            As you teach your dog Quiet,
This is easiest if your dog already       gradually increase the quiet time
knows how to speak. Tell your dog          from 2 seconds to 5 seconds or
to Speak or catch him when he is          more. Then, when he understands
barking. Get right in front of him        the trick, make a game of it. Tell
and say "Quiet". The second he           him to "Speak", "Speak", "Speak",
stops, even if it is to take a breath,     and then "Quiet". Then "Speak"
give him a treat. You might want           again. It's a great trick that will
to hold your hand or palm in front       entertain your friends and your pup
of his face to add a visual signal.               will look so smart!
Practice playing 'quiet' often and
your dog will be loving the word
"Quiet".




Which One?

Put a treat in one hand, show your                         TIP:
dog, and then close both of your        If you have tried this several times,
hands, making two fists. Hold your     but your dog still won't use his paws
fists in front of you, about six        to touch your hand, let him use his
inches apart and say "Which one?"      mouth to point out the correct hand.
Your dog will try to pry at your            It'll be just as good and your
fists with his mouth to find the         audience will love the trick just as
treat, but don't open your hands.                         much.
Wait until he tries to use his paw
(he will if you wait long enough),
let him touch the correct hand and
then give him the treat.




Circle

With your dog facing you, take a                         TIP:
treat and lead your dog's nose to       In the beginning you might have to
the right and around your body.        give your dog several treats while he
Let him follow the treat all the          is going around behind you and
way around behind your back and             when he returns to the front.
around to the front. Give your dog       Practice it several times a day, but
the treat and praise him. He will be     only for five minutes or so, two or
making a complete circle around                   three times a day.
you.
Come (to a whistle)                                     TIP:
                                      Use a small, but tasty treat, one that
Have your dog sit in front of you.      your dog really loves. After your
Using a dog whistle from your         dog will come to you from different
local pet store, blow it once and     areas in the house, move outside, to
give your dog a treat. Do this        fenced areas only. When you notice
several times and repeat several       your dog is a little distracted, give
times during the day. Repeat this        the whistle a blow and see if he
over several days, trying it a            comes. By now, he should be
increased distances. Your dog          coming. If not, go back to shorter
should soon be running to you          distances without distractions and
every time he hears the whistle.            take the steps a bit slower.
Head Down

Start by sitting on the ground with
your dog. While holding a treat,                       TIP:
put your hand in front of your          Only give your dog the treat after
dog's nose and lead him toward         you have released him. Increase the
the ground. As soon as your dog's     time his chin is touching the ground,
chin touches ground only for a         so eventually your dog will keep it
second, say "Head Down!". Then            there while you pet him. Then
say "Release" or "OK" and give          release him and reward him. Your
him the treat after he lifts his         dog will soon charm your friends
head.                                             with this trick!




Go to Bed                                                TIP:
                                        It will take many repetitions, but
"Go to bed" means go to the bed        she'll start to figure out that going
AND lie down. You should only         AND lying down on the bed will get
need to say "Go to bed".              her a reward. It's important that your
Put a bed, blanket, or towel 6-10     dog knows how to lie down. At first
feet away from you. With your           you might have to say Lie Down
dog beside you say "Go to bed!"          real softly to get your dog to go
and then together go to the bed.            down, but try not to use it very
Have your dog lie down on the             much. What you want to say is "Go
bed, give her a treat, and praise.         to Bed". Remember, "Go to bed"
Repeat many times. Later on, try          means go to the bed AND lie down.
sending your dog by herself. At
first, make sure that someone is
waiting at the bed with a treat.
Later, your dog will do it herself,
and you will walk over to her
while she is lying down and
reward her.




Find the Treasure! (Dig)

'Find the treasure' means the dog
                                                           TIP:
will use one or two front paws to
                                          For dogs that are not natural diggers,
dig at the ground. Here's one way
                                            this may take a while. Remember
to teach it on command. Gather
                                           that you're looking for that digging
some treats and put them under a
                                            behavior. You can give him treats
towel while your dog is watching
                                           from under the towel or from your
closely. Don't let your dog use his
                                              hand as encouragement. If he
nose to get under the towel. Keep
                                              happens to uncover a treat by
encouraging him verbally and
                                                  himself, then praise!
showing him that there are treats
under the towel, and eventually,
                                          Caution! If you have a dog that digs
he'll start pawing at the towel. As
                                            in the garden and causes trouble
soon as he moves that paw just a
                                           because of his digging, you might
little, say, "Find the treasure!"
                                          not want to encourage this behavior.
Reward your dog immediately
with a treat from your hand or
even from under the towel.




                            Dog Behavior Training
At some point in time all of us dog owners need to administer some dog behavior training. This
is sometimes called "behavior modification" and it basically means solving your dog's behavior
problems.

There are loads of dog behavior problems, they can affect all dog breeds, at any time throughout
your dog's life. I've listed some of the more common dog behavior problems below, and
importantly some proven dog behavior training methods to correct them. I will continue to add to
this resource over the next few months. Hopefully this information proves to be a valuable
resource for you - and your dog.




General Principles for Dog Behavior Training

      A great number of puppy and dog behavioral problems are the result of separation
       anxiety.
      Many behavior problems (such as barking, biting and digging) stem from a lack of
       communication, or miscommunication between you the owner and your dog. Simply put,
       your dog is not aware of what is expected of him/her (I'll just say him from now on to
       make it easier).
      Applying some proper obedience training at an early stage (the earlier the better!) is a
       most effective technique to correct any behavior problems, and also to prevent any future
       problems. The fact that you are reading this page possibly means it is too late for this tip!
      Set boundaries of acceptable and unacceptable behavior for your dogs, and stick to them.
       Be consistent, make it simple for your dog:
           o Be clear that you are always the alpha dog or leader in your owner-dog
               relationship.
           o Make it clear to him what is unacceptable behavior - every time.
           o Make it clear to him what is acceptable behavior - every time.
      Even though it may seem as though your dog is behaving poorly to spite you or annoy
       you this is not the case. In the vast majority of dog behavior problems there will be a
       cause or trigger which sparks the behavior. Identifying these triggers is the crucial first
       step towards solving the problem.
      Be careful you are not inadvertently rewarding the very behavior you are trying to
       eliminate. An example of this would be if your dog is barking excessively outside, you
       then go to the door and call him inside. You're encouraging and rewarding the behavior,
       and therefore he is sure to do it again!



Dog Behavior Training Methods – Here we look at some of the common behavior
problems.
    Stop Your Dog From Barking Fast!
Working out how to stop your dog from barking can be a difficult and time consuming task.

Dogs love to bark. It's a perfectly natural thing for your dog to do, just as its normal for us
humans to speak.

It's when our dogs bark excessively that it becomes a problem for all concerned - including our
cranky neighbors.

Considering this, our goal really isn't to stop dog barking altogether, but rather to
control the excessive barking.

Keep in mind that there are situations when we want our dogs to bark (and I guess
there are also times when I like my chatty aunty to speak).

The first step in modifying the behavior of an excessive barker is to determine the reason why
the dog is barking in the first place. Once you've identified this cause or trigger, you can then
plan the correct training solution.

One of the biggest mistakes us dog owners make is to inadvertently reward our dogs excessive
barking. We actually encourage and reinforce the barking problem when we commit these three
dog training sins:

"Never Reward Your Dog's Barking!"

   1. Yell and scream at the dog - this just gives them the attention they were crying out for.
      Plus your dog will most probably just think you are joining in with them, adding to the
      excitement.
   2. Let them inside. If your dog is barking his head off outside, then you let him in, this just
      rewards and therefore reinforces the barking. This also applies to dogs who bark to be
      released from a crate or bark to make you get up and prepare their dinner!
   3. If your dog is barking and you react by giving him a comforting cuddle or a treat of some
      sort, you are definitely encouraging your dog to bark again. By doing this you are
      communicating to your dog that you are happy with him. You should be making it clear
      that his excessive barking is inappropriate and won't be tolerated.

The most important piece of advice to remember when trying to modify any dog behavior
problem is that you must clearly communicate to your dog what is acceptable behavior and what
is not.




    Stop Dogs Eating Dog Poop - Dog Coprophagia
Dog Coprophagia is one dog problem that us dog owners hate. To us it's a filthy habit that just
doesn't make any sense. I mean why would our much loved pets eat dog or cat poop when we are
feeding them perfectly good meals?

Dog Coprophagia (eating feces) is most common in puppies up to a year old, but can occur at
any stage throughout a dog's life. For such a wide spread problem there hasn't been much
research conducted into how to stop our dogs from eating dog poop.

The good news though for us dog lovers is that there are many proven techniques or training
methods we can call on to correct this habit.

If your puppy or older dog has taken a fancy to eating feces, read on...

An important thing to remember for all dog owners, who have a poop eating puppy, is to ensure
that all dog vaccinations and worming treatments are up to date. The reason for this is that
various diseases and internal parasites can be passed from dog to dog through coprophagia.

The techniques below have proven to be an effective way to stop dogs eating dog poop. You
should try one method or combine a few until you break your dog's habit. Remember that
unecessary punishment or getting angry with your dog does not work - for this or any other dog
behavior problem.

      Feed well balanced and nutritious meals.
      Try feeding twice a day at regular times rather than only once.
      Always keep your dog's living area clean of feces and provide a few
       stuffed chew toys to keep them occupied.
      Be sure to adequately exercise and stimulate your dog - mentally and
       physically.
      Teach your dog the basic obedience command "leave it". If you have established yourself
       as the fair and always consistent leader in your owner-dog relationship, this command
       will work immediately.
      A technique I successfully used to stop my Brother’s Vista from eating her poop was to
       put a tablespoon of pineapple in her food. Apparently pineapple tastes terrible when eaten
       in poop - can't say I've tried it myself! Other people have used Pumpkin, Spinach, Pickles
       or Garlic for the same purpose.
      Always reward desired behavior.

Whichever method you try with your dog be sure to be consistent. You must enforce your
strategy every time in order to stop dogs eating dog poop. The longer you let this habit establish
itself, the harder it will be to break.

One last thing - most dogs do eventually grow out of their poop eating habit, just not fast
enough for us owners!

    Stop a Puppy from Biting
Managing and controlling puppy biting problems can be a major challenge for us dog lovers.
Puppy biting or nipping starts out as a bit of fun, but needs to be controlled quickly to avoid
ongoing problems.

For most young puppies biting is a perfectly natural and essential phase they go through,
especially when they are teething. Puppies love to sink their sharp little fangs into just about
anything during this teething stage, including the hands and feet of their owners. In some cases
it's like you've brought a snappy alligator into your home, instead of the cuddly little puppy you
had hoped for.

Your goal to start with is to teach your puppy how to control the force of his/her biting. Your
puppy's littermates will initiate this process and then it is up to you to continue on with it when
your new puppy arrives home. This will ensure (not guarantee) that if your dog does bite
someone in the future the damage will be minimized. When you have given your puppy
sufficient feedback regarding the strength of his bite only then can you begin to reduce the
prevalence of the biting behavior.

   1. If you catch the biting problem early on it may be easy to rectify. Just try to redirect the
      biting from your flesh to a toy or chew bone. For very young puppies this method is often
      all you'll need do.
   2. Make your puppy think he is hurting you each time he has a nip at you. This method
      replicates the way dogs sort out this biting amongst themselves. When puppies are biting
      and nipping each other it only stops when one puppy lets out a yelp. We can use this
      natural way dogs learn by letting out an Ouch! or an Arrr! every time one of our puppy's
      bite. The trick is to startle your dog with your voice, and then pull away and stop playing
      with your puppy for a while.
   3. In bad biting cases as soon as your puppy latches onto your hand say "No!" and quickly
      put your thumb inside his mouth under his tongue, and your other finger under his chin.
      Hold it there for about 10 seconds (not too tightly). This will feel uncomfortable to your
      puppy plus he won't be able to bite you.



      Stop Your Dog from Jumping Up on People

Dogs jumping up on people is at best an embarrassing, annoying habit and at worst a danger for
all involved.

What starts out as a cute habit in young puppies often escalates into a big problem that can be
very difficult to correct. If you can't stand your much loved dog jumping on you, just imagine
what visitors to your home must think?

Your dog jumps all over you every time you come home, on visitors to your home or just when
you've put on freshly cleaned and ironed pants!

Why Do Our Dogs Jump Up On People?
   1. Excitement, they're just showing you that they are happy to see you.
   2. Your dog could be seeking your attention and has been rewarded with it by jumping up in
      the past.
   3. To assert dominance over you or guests. This is a rare one but can happen.

Always keep in mind that your dog doesn't understand that the jumping up behavior is
"inappropriate". It's up to you to clearly communicate this to your dog.

Depending on what stage you're at with the jumping up problem, you should find one of these
training techniques will do the trick. In most cases you will see some positive results in a matter
of days.

      When you see that your dog is ready to launch up at you, turn your body away from him.
       This will make your dog miss you, or at the very least deflect him off you. During this
       process don't make any eye contact with your dog and don't say a thing. Ignore your dog
       and make it clear to him that when he jumps he gets nothing from you.

       When your dog has settled down and stops jumping, you then initiate some contact with
       him. Get down to his level and lavish him with praise and a nice scratch behind the ear. If
       you are consistent and persistent with this method, your dog will soon learn that staying
       on all four legs is a much better alternative!

      The next method is the one I prefer to use with my dogs. In situations
       where your dog is excitable and prone to jumping up, give him
       something else to do. In these situations I instruct my dogs to "sit" -
       this is sometimes referred to as "alternate behavior training".

       So instead of jumping around like lunatics, my dogs sit patiently
       awaiting my attention (which I always reward them with).

      Many dog trainers use and recommend correcting jumping up
       problems with a pinch collar (sometimes called a prong collar). This technique is most
       suitable for bigger, strong willed breeds like German Shepherds and Rottweiler’s. The
       key is to leave the pinch collar on whenever you are around your dog and have a short
       leash attached to it. At the moment your dog jumps, give a short sharp snap downwards
       on the leash. This tightens the collar and creates a negative association to your dog. It is
       said to replicate the correction that dogs use between themselves. Never pull on the leash
       for more than a second or two, and never hurt your dog. When used the right way the
       pinch collar should not leave a mark on your dog’s neck. Your dog will learn very
       quickly that when he jumps up on people, it will be an unpleasant experience. I believe
       this is an extreme method and would only consider it as a last resort for a dog who is
       jumping up dangerously.

The good thing about jumping up problems in dogs is that they are usually an easy fix. As long
as you are determined to correct the problem and follow the above training techniques
consistently you should be on the right track.
      Stop Puppy Whining
So you've got a whinging, whiny little puppy or older dog - it's got to be one of the most
annoying and frustrating sounds of all doesn't it?

Firstly I should say that this whining is a perfectly natural behavior for a young puppy - it is how
they get attention from their mother from a very early age. It's when the whining or crying drags
on and on and becomes a long term persistent habit that it becomes a problem for us dog lovers.

The best solution to this whining, screaming or whinging behavior is to tackle it immediately,
ideally before it establishes itself as an ingrained habit - try to nip it in the bud as they say.
Always be fair, understanding and reasonable with a young puppy. Never forget that your puppy
is a sociable little creature who hates to be left isolated and alone.

There are many measures you can put into place right now to help quieten your whiny little beast
down. We'll start out with some general tips and then get a little more specific further down the
page.

Some of the more common reasons our dog's whine:

      They are seeking our attention - this is most common and tops the list of reasons.
      Our dog may be uncomfortable. This could mean he/she is cold, wet or hot etc..
      Dogs will whine if they are in pain.
      It is common for a dog to whine if he/she is not comfortable in a new environment.
       Whining in a dog crate is a very common behavior.
      The dog may be bored or lonely.
      A dog who whines may need to go to the toilet (or has already soiled his sleeping area).
      Dogs with unused energy will often whine - the energy has to come out somehow!
      A hungry or thirsty dog will often cry or whine.
      Many dogs whine because it works - we reward them for it!
      The whining may be a symptom of canine separation anxiety.
      If your dog is whining take a step back and consider whether he/she is involved in the
       family, loved and properly exercised?

Put these ingredients in place and you will eliminate many of the reasons why your puppy may
be whining.

      Provide a dry, warm, safe and comfortable area for your dog.
      Ensure that your dog is well fed and has access to clean, fresh water. If your dog whines
       in one particular area you may want to feed him/her in this area. This will provide your
       dog with a nice positive association to the area where he is normally unsettled.
      If necessary take your dog out to the toilet every few hours.
      One or two tasty dog chew toys may help reduce whining in some situations - a stuffed
       kong toy is a favorite with my dogs.
      If your puppy is whining overnight you may be advised to bring his bedding/crate into
       your bedroom. Puppies love to be able to see and smell their "pack" - which is you. You
       will be able to move the crate out of your room over a period of time. NOTE: I'd only
       advise using this technique if you are happy to have your dog in your bedroom with you,
       otherwise just ignoring the whining is your best course of action.
      Burn off your dog's energy (this will prevent many destructive behaviors). Tire your dog
       out with some rigorous on leash walks, playing games and some mentally stimulating
       obedience training.
      Place an item of clothing with your scent on it in your puppy's sleeping area.
      If you are at all concerned that your dog's whining may be due to some kind of pain then
       a trip to the Veterinarian is required.
      Some owners have reported success by wrapping an old ticking clock up in a towel and
       placing it in the dog's bed. This is said to comfort the dog as the ticking clock replicates
       the sound of another dog's heartbeat.

As with most behavioral problems obedience training is the key.



    Separation Anxiety in Dogs
One of the greatest joys of dog ownership is the tight bond we experience and encourage with
our dogs. However, if your dog becomes too reliant or dependent on you, dog separation anxiety
can occur when you and your dog are apart.

Separation anxiety in dogs is an enormous problem for around 10% of all puppies and older
dogs. Somewhat ironically, problems related to separation anxiety are the major cause for dogs
ending up in animal shelters. I wish I could say canine separation anxiety is an easy fixed, but in
many cases it is a very difficult problem to overcome.

Look At It From Your Dog's Perspective

To your dog you are the most important thing in his/her world. Dogs are pack animals who are
very sociable creatures and thrive on company for many reasons. Your dog would spend every
bit of his life with you if he could. So it's only natural that when you go out, your dog
experiences varying degrees of distress or anxiety. He becomes confused, doesn't know where
you are going, why he can't be with you and if you will be coming back to him. When the two of
you are separated all he wants is to be reunited with his pack - which is you.

Punishment is NEVER the answer to solving Separation Anxiety in dogs!
Separation Anxiety Treatment

The treatment administered to your dog's separation anxiety problem depends on its cause and
severity. A mild case of separation anxiety in dogs will be easily fixed by applying some of the
proven methods listed below. More severe cases will take lots of time, commitment and possibly
a visit to your Vet for some medication. Commence these techniques as soon as you identify
separation anxiety to be the problem.

The golden rule is that you must educate your dog to accept the fact that sometimes you will
need to be apart from each other. The earlier you start getting your dog used to this fact, the
easier it will be, for both of you.

      Ensure that your dog feels safe and comfortable when you are away from him. Provide
       plenty of fresh water and clean, warm bedding for your dog.
      Be sure to give your dog plenty of exercise when you are around. On leash walks, a run at
       the park with other dogs and some obedience training will all ensure your dog is happy
       and stimulated. Importantly it can also mean your dog will rest while you are out, instead
       of tearing up the garden.
      Provide some appealing dog toys to help occupy his time. Kongs stuffed with frozen
       treats are a favorite with my dogs.
      Leave your dog a blanket or piece of clothing that has your scent on it. This may comfort
       a distressed dog - make sure it is something you don't mind being torn up though.
      Try feeding your dog his main meal just as you are leaving the house. You can also hide
       part of his meal around the yard, which will give him/her something to do while you are
       away.
      If you often have the radio on when at home, leave it on while you are away. This can be
       soothing and comforting in mild cases of separation anxiety in dogs.

"It's Your Job To Provide Your Dog With Everything Required To Ensure He Is Happy, Well
Balanced & Worn Out!"



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