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breakthroughs
Science News from P&G Beauty & Grooming VOL. XVIII
WHAT’S INSIDE SCIENTISTS CROSS NEW THRESHOLD IN SHAVING
For nearly a century, scientists have A razor with multiple blades replicates
2 MOISTURE BREAKTHROUGH: sought to enhance the shaving experi- this process and gives a measurable
IT’S MORE THAN JUST WATER ence, from improving formulations of improvement in closeness; however it
Understanding women’s hair shave gels, balms and creams to enhanc- can also introduce new challenges. Stud-
texture needs ing the efficiency and comfort of the razor ies show that when a multi-blade razor is
itself. Today, a myriad of razor options used to shave the face, skin is forced up
3 STRANGELY BEAUTIFUL are available. What’s a consumer to choose and between the blades in small bulges.
The fibers of face masks and is there really a difference between This can create drag and discomfort and
one blade, three blades and five blades? can result in skin irritation.
3 MYTHS & FACTS Scientifically speaking, there is.
Truth about shaving
“People are always surprised when I tell
them my sole area of focus is the science of
3 LAB NOTES
Antiperspirant efficacy
shaving,” says Graham Simms, Research
Fellow at P&G Beauty & Grooming.
4 IN THE SPOTLIGHT
“Every day, I’m in the lab applying phys-
Research Fellow Graham Simms ics, geometry and biology to help men
P&G Perfumer Awards have a better shaving experience. And
Scientist uses a scanning electron microscope
I’m not alone, hundreds of scientists have to look at a component from a five-blade
been studying this area for years.” cartridge.
As early as 1929, an inventor striving for
the perfect shave saw the benefit of a five-
blade razor and patented it. However,
the invention never reached the pub-
lic because this five-blade razor irritated
and cut the skin. For the next several
decades, the single-blade razor remained
DID YOU KNOW? the gold standard. Then, in 1971, Gil-
lette scientists were successful in creating P&G Beauty & Grooming scientist studies facial
P&G Beauty & Grooming makes a two-blade razor that demonstrated a skin and beard hair at high magnification using a
video microscope.
sustainability a core consideration closer, more comfortable shave than the
of every initiative. In fact, Olay ® long-standing single blade. In 1998, the
Total Effects, Olay’s highest selling three-blade razor, which built on the two- Simms and his scientist colleagues
blade improvements, was introduced. addressed this problem through rigorous
line of anti-aging and moisturizing
study of new technologies and materi-
products, sold in more than 50
Research has demonstrated the ben- als as they designed the five-blade razor.
countries around the world, has
efit of multiple blade razors. The first First, scientists discovered that by mov-
reduced the plastic in its pump to blade engages the hair and extends it ing each of the five blades closer together,
save 800,000 pounds of plastic per out of the follicle so that the subsequent the bulge height was significantly reduced
year, equivalent to the weight of blade, if accurately placed, cuts the hair and a more uniform stress was placed
a Boeing 747. further down the hair shaft before it on the skin, translating to less drag and
can fully retreat back into the follicle. a safer, more comfortable shave. P&G
breakthroughs: Science News from P&G Beauty & Grooming
Beauty & Grooming scientists also sought narrower blade supports. By thinning a scientist as we were creating this latest
material improvements on the stainless the material under the blades, they advance. I’m eager to be presented with
steel blades. These blades, that are sharper allow more room for shave gel and hair to the next problem to solve.”
than a scalpel, are enhanced with a be washed away.
diamond-like carbon coating and a
telomer anti-friction layer, which dramat- Through decades of scientific study and
ically enhance the blade’s performance experience, P&G Beauty & Grooming
with less tugging and more comfort. scientists have made a 1929 inventor’s
dream of the five-blade razor a reality.
But scientists still had one more hurdle. “We were able to apply years of incre-
While the closely-packed blades provided mental advances, and multiple disciplines
an improved shave, they also caused the of study to make this come to life,” says
razors to clog easily. Simms and his col- Simms. “I felt as much like a detec- Scanning electron micrograph of beard stubble
leagues solved this last problem with tive solving a complex problem as I did emerging from the irregular skin surface of a
man’s face.
MOISTURE BREAKTHROUGH: IT’S MORE THAN JUST WATER
Many women are looking for ways to verified that the water level of the 80 per- both shampoo and conditioner felt more
make their hair feel more moisturized. cent RH sample was significantly higher “moisturized.” “These findings are signifi-
However, hair with high moisture content than that of the 15 percent RH sample, cant steps toward dispelling the myth of
can actually lead to a “bad hair” day. Scien- which sharply contrasts with the panelists’ ‘moisturized’ hair,” says Davis. “By edu-
tists have observed that moisture increases sensory assessment of “moisture.” cating women about the importance of
friction between hair fibers and decreases conditioning, we will empower them to
tensile strength, which leads to an increase These findings, presented at the 2008 get the hair texture they want.”
in hair frizz and styling difficulties. Asian Dermatological Congress, allowed
P&G Beauty & Grooming scien- Relationship Between Moisture and Perceived Hair Attributes
P&G Beauty & Grooming scientists con- tists to confirm that “moisturization” 15% Relative Humidity
100
ducted an experiment to understand the correlates with tactile characteristics such
80% Relative Humidity
No Difference
meaning of “moisturized” hair, as defined as smoothness, degree of tangling and hair 80
by women. Specifically, blindfolded pan- damage, rather than actual water con-
% Response
60
elists were asked to assess their percep- tent. “These findings allow us to better
tion of “moisture” in two hair samples. target women’s hair care needs,” explains 40
One sample was equilibrated at 15 per- Michael Davis, P&G Beauty & Groom-
20
cent relative humidity (RH) and the ing Senior Scientist.
other was equilibrated at 80 percent RH. 0
Seventy-five percent of the panelists char- A second sensory experiment performed More “Moisturized” Smoother More Tangled More Damaged
acterized the 15 percent RH hair samples by P&G Beauty & Grooming has helped Relationship Between Hair Conditioning and Perceived Hair Attributes
Shampoo
as feeling more moisturized, smoother, women understand how to achieve the Shampoo & Conditioner
less tangled and less damaged, while less desired feeling of “moisturized” hair. The 100 No Difference
than ten percent found no difference panelists felt two damaged hair samples, 80
between the samples. one treated with shampoo and another
% Response
treated with shampoo and a conditioner 60
A novel microwave resonance measure- containing bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, 40
ment determined the actual water con- a modified silicone conditioning agent.
tent of each sample. This assessment Panelists determined the hair treated with 20
0
More “Moisturized” Smoother More Tangled More Damaged
2
STRANGELY BEAUTIFUL These fibers (pictured directly below) are rayon. The non-stretchable fiber (pictured
designed to disentangle more easily than directly below) is highly tangled, limiting
Massage, whether it is gentle stroking or traditional masks, creating a contoured the mask’s elasticity and ultimately its
strong kneading, is recognized as one of the face mask. This superior fit enhances blood ability to fit the face.
oldest methods of healing. P&G Beauty circulation and allows the ingredients in
& Grooming scientists have developed the mask to penetrate deep within the skin. The snug fit of “splitable fibers” provides
a technology for facial masks that builds on Traditional masks are constructed with a the full coverage necessary for noticeable
the fundamentals of massage. The unique non-stretchable fiber, such as cotton or skin benefits.
technology uses a stretchable underlying
layer, or substrate, to apply a gentle,
massage-like pressure to the face.
The mask’s special substrate is enhanced
with “splitable fibers” that increase cover-
age on the uneven surface of the face.
MYTHS & FACTS LAB NOTES
Shaving makes hair grow back thicker. Antiperspirant Delivers Prescription-Strength Wetness Efficacy
Without Severe Irritation
MYTH: Shaving does not change hair tex-
Often prescription-strength
ture. P&G Beauty & Grooming scientists Sweat Remaining After Evening Antiperspirant Application
(Rx) antiperspirants are
have found that shaving does not cause 250
recommended for patients
hair to grow back thicker, darker or faster.
Remaining Sweat (mg)
200
with severe perspiration.
However, when a shaved hair begins to Though efficacious, these 150
re-grow, the tip shape is different from an products with aluminum Day 7
unshaven hair. This changes how the hair chloride can irritate the skin
100 Day 9
feels initially, but if left to re-grow com- forcing patients to discon- 50
pletely, it will return to its former texture. tinue use. 0
OTC-Men Rx-Men OTC-Women Rx-Women
The shave gel and the razor are essen- P&G Beauty & Grooming
tial partners. scientists addressed this issue by studying perspiration and skin irritation when
using a new (or specially formulated) over-the-counter (OTC) antiperspirant or a
FACT: Through years of shaving research, prescription-strength wetness protection product.
P&G Beauty & Grooming scientists have
Clinical trials were conducted to compare the underarm performance of a “soft
learned that the ideal complement to a
solid” OTC antiperspirant (containing 20 percent aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex
state-of-the-art razor is the right shav-
gly) with a prescription-strength antiperspirant (containing 6.25 percent active alumi-
ing gel. It allows sharp blades to cut close num chloride). Every evening for ten nights, male panelists applied 0.6g of product
while minimizing the risk of irritation by and females applied 0.4g of product. A qualified clinician assessed skin irritation
providing a protective anti-friction layer. among female panelists. Researchers quantified underarm sweat from all panelists
Quality shave gels contain advanced lubri- on days seven and ten.
cants to enhance razor glide from the first
Data from these trials, presented at the 2007 and 2008 American Academy of
stroke to the last and help protect against
Dermatology conferences, demonstrate similar efficacy for the OTC antiperspirant as
nicks, redness and tightness.
compared to the tested Rx product containing 6.25 percent active aluminum chloride.
However, clinician assessments suggest the OTC antiperspirant delivers this efficacy
with significantly less skin irritation.
3
breakthroughs: Science News from P&G Beauty & Grooming
IN THE SPOTLIGHT Prior to joining P&G Beauty & Groom- Best Hair Care Fragrance Mass
Graham Simms, Research Fellow ing, Simms worked at British Aerospace Pantene® Pro-V Color Expressions
and invented navigation systems for mili- Shampoo
P&G Beauty & Groom- tary aircrafts, ships and missiles. “I moved
ing recruits experts with from designing products that I hoped Best Body Care Fragrance Women’s
diverse specialities to people would never use,” notes Simms, “to Secret® Clinical Light & Fresh Scent
develop the most designing products that I hope consumers
advanced and effec- Best Body Care Fragrance Men’s
will use every day.” Old Spice® After Hours Deodorant
tive shaving technolo-
gies. Graham Simms, Acclaim for P&G Perfumers Best Fragrance Line Extension Specialty
Research Fellow at the At the 2008 annual meeting of the Ameri- The Herbal Essence® Series
Gillette Technology Centre in Reading, can Society of Perfumers, P&G perfum-
U.K., is a Chartered Mechanical ers were awarded nine Perfumer Choice Resources
Engineer who has worked in the Awards for best in-market fragrances. In http://www.aad.org/
Grooming division for 19 years. the 20 year history of these awards, no (American Academy of Dermatology)
His reputation for being an enthusi- company has ever swept more than a third
astic innovator is bolstered by the fact of the awards in a single year—until now. http://www.perfumers.org/
that 17 patents, ranging from razors to More than 200 perfumer peers chose the (American Society of Perfumers)
writing instruments, carry his name. winners based on a blind sampling of
He has made significant contributions to http://www.adc2008.org/
products in 25 categories. Of the nine
the development of many system razors (Eighth Asian Dermatological Congress)
awards received by P&G, four awards were
such as Venus Divine and M3Power. for products in beauty care categories. Zer-
Simms created the Future Technologies lina Dubois and Stacy Hertenstein, P&G
Beauty & Grooming perfumers, accepted
department at Reading to scout the world
the awards.
for novel technologies that could be used
in new razor prototypes. He also led the The following coveted awards recognize
multi-disciplinary Concept Engineering the superior fragrance science and design
Team that overcame tough technical chal- that P&G Beauty & Grooming provides
lenges to make five-blade razors a reality. to the world’s consumers every day:
P&G Beauty & Grooming Science has more than 1,800 scientists and technical employees working at nine To talk to a P&G Beauty & Grooming scientist
global technical centers with an unparalleled commitment to technology development. Company scientific or to learn more about ongoing research
efforts have resulted in over 10,000 patents. This allows P&G to develop products uniquely suited for differ- at P&G Beauty & Grooming Science, contact:
ent types of hair and skin, and tailored to different cultures and climates.
Heather Cunningham
P&G Beauty & Grooming products help make beauty dreams real for women worldwide and help men look, P&G Beauty & Grooming Science
feel and be their best every day. With more than 100 brands available in nearly 130 countries, P&G’s beauty and +513-626-2606
grooming products delivered sales of nearly $28 billion in fiscal year 2007/08 , making it one of the world’s larg-
est beauty and grooming companies. P&G Beauty & Grooming offers trusted brands with leading technology to
meet the full complement of beauty and grooming needs, including Pantene®, Olay®, Head & Shoulders®, Max
Factor®, Cover Girl®, DDF®, Frederic Fekkai®, Wellaflex®, Rejoice®, Sebastian Professional®, Herbal Essences®,
Koleston®, Clairol Professional®, Nice ’n Easy®, Venus®, Gillette®, SK-II®, Wella Professionals®, Braun® and
a leading Prestige Fragrance division that spans from point of market entry consumers to high end luxury with
global brands such as Hugo Boss®, Lacoste®, and Christina Aguilera®. (NYSE: PG)
Please visit www.pgbeautyscience.com for the latest news and in-depth informa-
tion about P&G Beauty & Grooming and its scientific developments.
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