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					                                 YOUR PUPPY
WELCOME TO YOUR NEW JAPANESE SPITZ PUPPY

I hope that the following will help you bond with, and raise your puppy. You can call
me if you want to discuss any issue or want help or suggestions on raising your pup.
Your vet also is an invaluable reference point for some puppy questions and
instructors at puppy school/doggy daycare or obedience classes will help you through
the early months with your pup.

Please enjoy your pup and make sure that he/she is an important part of your family.


NEUTERING YOUR PUPPY

Your puppy has been sold as a family pet and OUR SALES
CONTRACT REQUIRES that he/she BE NEUTERED (DESEXED) at around six (6)
months. HE/SHE IS NOT A SHOW OR BREEDING DOG.

 I am a firm believer that family pets are desexed as you will not have the ongoing
problems of girls in season and boys wanting desperately to get to them to breed.
Both male and female Japanese Spitz have a very strong sex drive and will do almost
impossible things to get a mating. You run the risk of dogs being run over as their
brains only focus on getting sex and nothing else.

I have made it very clear in my pre-assessment of homes for puppies that I do
not sell my puppies for breeding or showing and this has been explained to you.


FIRST WEEKS AT HOME

Your pup will probably CRY for the first few nights in his/her new home. This is
normal. Any new home smells different, has different people in it, and the pup misses
his/her littermates and mother to snuggle in to at night. The pup does not know where
he/she is and everything is different. Do not worry about this – your pup will settle
down in time. However, you might have a few sleepless nights if he/she howls or
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cries. Just warn the neighbours and tell them that this crying is not expected to carry
on for too long.

We recommend that you wrap a ticking clock in a towel and put it in the pup’s
bed. This sounds like a heartbeat and will reassure the pup. It is possible to purchase
a ‘puppy mate’ that has a ticking heartbeat sensation and is able to be warmed slightly
for a puppy if you feel that he/she requires a” mate” in bed.

I probably asked you to send me some old clothes of your own before the puppy
left my house to put in with him/her in their last week with me. This was to
habituate them with the new smell of you and your home. He/she also has a piece of
bed/towel which has the smell of the litter in it which also provides reassurance to the
puppy as he/she moves home. These bits of clothes/bedding can be washed many
times as the fabric picks up human sweat and other body odors which remain despite
washing. The puppy picks these up on a subliminal level and thus is reassured that
all is well with his/her new world.

Your pup should sleep inside if he/she arrives in winter. Canberra is far too cold
for a young puppy to sleep outside for his first winter, even if he has a kennel.
Sleeping him/her in the laundry or garage would be an option if you do not want him
inside. He should be able to cope with the second winter if he has shelter and can
keep dry. My preference would be for him/her to sleep inside if at all possible in the
winter no matter how old your dog is.

If your pup is going to sleep inside, he will be happy to sleep in a traveling crate or
cage. Dogs do not find this cruel and in fact regard their crate as a “den” or place of
refuge. He/she has been specifically trained to use an open crate as his special place.

Put some toys and a mat or blanket in with him/her and the pup will be happy. You
need to toilet him/her late at night and first thing in the morning by taking puppy
outside immediately on waking up. Dogs and pups do not like to soil their sleeping
quarters and you will find that they will hold on once they learn a routine. This will
also save your house from accidents and build a positive relationship with your pup
when he/she first arrives.

The following highlights are expanded in the rest of the notes. Please refer to
them for more information

Your pup has been fed on a combination of Supercoat Puppy and Proplan Puppy
food. This should allow you to decide what food you want to feed him/her on and
whether you want to buy it at a specialist store or from the supermarket. When you
get your pup he will be on 4 meals per day of PROPLAN PUPPY FORMULA
mixed with SUPERCOAT PUPPY FORMULA, sometimes pre-soaked,
sometimes just dry. If you intend to change him to some other diet please give
his baby tummy a thought and do it very gradually. Sudden dietary changes can
result in diarrhoea.


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ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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A pup will urinate immediately it wakes up and after a meal.

If the pup is inside, gently take him/her outside to a place in the garden you
want him/her to use and wait until the puppy urinates. Then praise him/her.
If you do this without fail, as soon as he wakes up or wanders around
sniffing the floor, you will have very few accidents. My puppies have been
taught by the big girls to trot outside when I open the courtyard door and to go to
the toilet. They are not guaranteed to do it every time, but this is the beginning
of the fundaments of toilet training. Please see further in the notes for more
information.

By far the most impressionable time in a dog’s life is the short 3 months
between 8 weeks and 20 weeks. This is your big chance to set the foundation
for his/her self confidence with puppy schooling and socialization on a
continuous basis. Also to ensure that he/she enjoys being groomed and
taken to the vet for vaccinations etc.

You should start grooming your puppy the day you take him/her home.
Using short grooming sessions (2-5 minutes) as a bonding routine with a new
pup will be much easier to train him/her to be groomed. He/she is accustomed
already to being brushed, bathed, blow-dried and having his/her nails done.
Please keep up this good work and you won’t have any trouble with grooming
the dog as he/she grows up.

When your pup has become a fully grown dog he/she should appreciate a long
daily walk ON A LEASH with a free romp in a safe park (away from roads and
cars). However, considerable damage can be done to his/her joints if given too
much exercise while he/she is still growing.

Playing with him/her in the garden and house is sufficient exercise for a baby
puppy, but it is a good idea to teach him/her to enjoy short walks in the
backyard. Don’t leave the lead on him/her unless you are present.

Once he/she has had his/her second shots they can go outside for short walks
and may have to be carried home if you have gone too far. Until he/she is 8
months old we do not recommend long or vigorous walks beyond half a
kilometer.

More general information is provided in the following sections for you to read.
If you have any questions about any of it please contact me.




                                                                                      3

ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
                                        4




GENERAL INFORMATION


   A. WORMING

Internal Parasites

Your pup was wormed at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. I have given you a
couple of doses to take you up to the revaccination date at 12/13 weeks with your
vet.

He /she should be wormed with “Drontal or Exelpet All Wormer in the week
after you take him home and then a couple of days later. (This should clear him
of any population of worms that live in an environment populated by a pack of
dogs and a litter of pups that pass any on by cleaning up poop after one another.)
Wait until he is settled in before you do this as I don’t want any unnecessary
stress on the pup by worming while he is unsettled. Then worm monthly until 6
months old. Thereafter he/she should be wormed every three (3) months for
the rest of his/her life for Roundworm, Hookworm, Whipworm and
Tapeworm.

I worm my dogs on the first day of the month and the change of each new
season (i.e. quarterly) in the Summer, Autumn, Winter and Spring - as it is
easy to remember. If you need to change the date to bring it to the first of the
month or on a quarterly season change basis, then I give an extra dose to bring it
from the old practice to the new regime and to get the sequence in place.


Heartworm

This is transferred by mosquitoes and can infect dogs in many areas of
Australia.

Consult your vet about preventative treatment when you take him/her for its
second vaccinations at 12/13 weeks.

Both Dirazone (taken daily) and Heartguard (a chewy tablet taken monthly) are
safe and effective. I find the monthly chewable Heartguard excellent and easy to
administer. Again I stick to the 1 st of the month as an easy memory–jogger.

It is now possible to have an annual heartworm vaccination shot given by the vet
at the same time as he/she is vaccinated. The annual shot is convenient and costs
about the same as the monthly chews without the inconvenience of forgetting to


                                                                                     4

ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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take it. If you miss a number of heartworm tablets then you must have a
heartworm test before commencing/restarting heartworm medications.



For your convenience you might remember to

          Worm the pup/dog on the first of the month
          Worm the adult on the first day of the quarter
          Monthly heartworm on the first of the month unless you have an
           annual shot.
          The annual heartworm vaccination might be more convenient for
           some owners, but you still need to keep up the all-wormer
           schedule.


   B. VACCINATIONS

Your pup was given its first vaccination (PROTECH C3 or C4) at 6-7 weeks of
age. The certificate is enclosed with this pack. He/she may have some immunity
against Distemper, Hepatitis and Parvovirus (DHP) at this early stage.

It is necessary for a further vaccination to be given at 12-13 weeks of age. A
booster for parvo is also essential at 18 weeks.
Thereafter, a DHP booster should be given every year for life. I advise that you
include kennel cough vaccine in your regime. Many boarding kennels and puppy
schools won’t allow dogs without the Kennel Cough being up to date.

Do not let your puppy go into areas which could be contaminated until the above
shots have taken affect. This means that your pup should not go into areas where
other dogs play or poop while unprotected (i.e. before the second shots.)

Sometimes some of my pups are vaccinated at 10 weeks with the Novibac
vaccine which is a yearly vaccine for DHP-type diseases if he/she is leaving
home later than 10 weeks. This vaccination requires an annual shot at 1 year old
and then on a 3 yearly basis after that. It is much more expensive than the C3
C4 vaccines, and can’t be given before the pup is 10 weeks old at the youngest.

C. FEEDING

When to feed

Your puppy has been fed on a combination of Supercoat Puppy and
PROPLAN Puppy formulations. This should allow you to decide what you
want to feed your pup and where you purchase it. The Supercoat Puppy dry food
is available at many supermarkets and is easily obtainable. The PROPLAN food


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ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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is more costly and concentrated and comes from specialist pet stores and some
vets. We find that because you use less Proplan that the cost of feeding either
food is comparable.



                                  Feeding schedule

     6-9 weeks             4 meals a day e.g. 7am, 12 noon, 5 pm and 10 pm **

     10-16 weeks           3 meals a day e.g., 7am, 5pm and 10 pm **

     16 to 26 weeks        2 meals a day morning and night**

     26-52 weeks           1 or 2 meals per day depending on the weight and
     activity              level of the dog.

     Adult dog             as per 26-52 week schedule. If more active divide
     the daily             food amount into 2 meals. NO TIDBITS.

     ** These times are approximate and should fit in with your schedule.



A newly arrived puppy will eat about 4 handfuls of Supercoat Puppy or one
and a half handfuls of PROPLAN divided up into the 4 meals each day. This
daily amount is then divided into 3 meals per day gradually increasing by a
small amount as your puppy grows.

Fresh water should be available for your puppy at all times. Your pup will
play in the water bowls, so make sure that they are shallow flat bottom-based
dishes with not too much water in them for a pup to drown if he/she falls in when
you are not there. Buckets of water are a serious risk for young pups. If
several dishes of water are distributed about the garden, inside and outside then
the pup still has water available if one dish gets dug out of water. Clean the
containers regularly because saliva makes the water rancid. A water
container in the car is also essential as you can get caught out without one.

 As your dog grows, it is a good idea to determine the correct weight for the
structure of your particular dog and adjust the quantity of food and amount of
exercise to maintain a healthy weight. Japanese Spitz can be greedy eaters
and become overweight quite easily if fed too much. An adult ranges
between 4 kgs for a small female to 9 kgs for a large male. My bitches weigh
between 4-6 kgs and dogs between 6-8 kgs.




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ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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You should be able to feel the ribs of your dog – please ask the vet to show
you how to measure here – as it is much easier to prevent obesity than to reduce
the weigh of a hungry dog.

In calculating your dog’s daily requirements and intake don’t forget to
include any treats tidbits etc in the calculations and reduce the other food
accordingly.


Feeding schedule: what to feed


Breeders and vets (for that matter) vary from one to another as to what
constitutes a good diet for dogs. However, we all agree that the only safe diet
is a balanced one.

There are 3 ways of ensuring this balance;

       To mix up your own concoction of meats, vegetables, grains and any
        other nutrients. If you do this beware as it is almost impossi ble to
        ensure that all the necessary components are present and in the correct
        proportions.

       A second is the BARF diet promoted widely by “natural” proponents
        who believe a dog should live on bones and carcasses for its nutrition.
        We don’t recommend this one as many Japanese Spitz have had to
        have pieces of bone removed from their GI tract because they have
        become stuck or caught in the tract itself. This is an expensive option
        as obstructions need to be removed quickly so that parts of the GI
        tract don’t die.

       The safest and preferred method is to take advantage of the considerable
        research and to feed a good quality complete and balanced dry food
        for the major part of the diet, supplemented with beef neck bones
        and the odd vegetable or other treat.

Dogs can occasionally be given extra protein such as chicken, fish lean mince
meat or cooked eggs – but only in small quantities (not more than 10 % of the
meal) and given as part of the main meal. Raw vegetables, particularly slithers
of carrot, broccoli, and beans can be given to a hungry dog on a diet to fill them
up and give them a satiated feeling.

My dogs are introduced as pups to tidbits of raw vegetables, some fruits and
yoghurt. I tend to cut up extra beans, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, and apple,
bananas and other fruits which they like and which they receive as treats. This
foundation provides a mechanism for you to put your dog on a diet if


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ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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necessary as grated carrot is good filler and does not add weight to your dog.
The yoghurt is necessary to rebalance the gut if your dog is on antibiotics.

We recommend that you feed your dog a balanced dry dog food and beef chuck
bones for his/her teeth.

Calcium supplementation is a tricky business. Over supplementation can be as
dangerous as insufficient calcium. A diet heavy in raw red meat will require
some supplementation as the meat binds up the calcium intake in other nutrients.
If you have any queries about this matter, please consult me or your vet for
further advice. Natural Bone Supplement (NBS) is a safe calcium additive if
given correctly.


D. FOODS TO AVOID

There are a number of foods that humans consume that are not healthy for dogs,
either because of allergies or because they can affect a dog’s blood and
consequently put its life at risk


                                Foods to avoid


      Milk and cream – although there are specialist low lactose animal
       preparations that are safe for your puppy

      Onions
      Raw egg white

      Sweet things

      Fatty foods


      Chocolate (especially dark chocolate)

      Too much cabbage (can change the thyroid balance) – some is OK

      Cat food – which has the wrong balance of nutrients for a dog on a
       long-term basis as its main meal. A handful or two a week used as
       rewards for training is OK and provides a different taste sensation
       (e.g. fishy) for rewards. Don’t overdo it.




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ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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Dogs are highly allergic to chocolate and to onions – both of which they crave
if they see you eating them and because they smell sweet. They need to see a
vet quickly if they consume a lot of either of these as they go into shock
which can kill them quickly.

We recommend that you use a treat which is not a chocolate substitute for
your pups so that it doesn’t acquire the taste for real chocolate. We use dried
liver, low lactose cheese or a small amount of cat food as treats/rewards for
training.

When your pup arrives he/she will be on 4 meals per day of Supercoat Puppy
food mixed with Eukanuba Puppy food, sometimes pre-soaked, sometimes dry. If
you intend to change him/her to some other diet please give his/her tummy a
thought as do it very gradually. Sudden dietary changes and overfeeding can
result in diarrhea. However, he will be perfectly happy to eat Supercoat
PUPPY on its own without the PROPLAN Puppy as I feed then both
products to accustom their tummies to whichever you choose to use.
Sometimes the PROPLAN is hard to find.

Make sure that the Supercoat or PROPLAN formulation is for a PUPPY as
the other formulations have a different balance in nutrients for the pup.

The above mentioned dry formulas for puppies have equivalent ‘Adult’ and
‘Senior’ versions which are complete and balanced for all age groups. Your
puppy can be changed over to the adult formula at about 9 to 12 months of
age.


   E.    RAW BONES AND YOUR DOG’S TEETH


       Raw bones help to keep a dog/s teeth cleaned

       Provide for hours of fun chewing at a bone and not barking or suffering a
        separation anxiety phase because its too busy chewing yummy bones, and


       Will help at the sore mouth/teeth stage when your pup will chew anything
        and everything to get some relief for sore gums.


Never give chicken bones or any cooked bones such as the roast or chop
bones or bones from the BBQ. Cooked bones can splinter and cause a great
deal of damage to the dog’s intestines. Chicken bones are very fragile and easy
for the dog to shatter but become very sharp indeed as they transit the gut.



                                                                                    9

ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
                                        10


Raw beef marrow bones are the only totally safe variety of bone to feed a
Japanese Spitz. Your butcher should cut a marrow bone into pieces for you and
thus the pieces can be frozen for use later in the week without spoiling or
smelling out the fridge. A new bone 2 to 3 times a week should keep your
dog’s teeth clean. Beware of wasps if the bones are left outside. Pick it up after
an hour or so of chewing and rewrap it and offer it again later that day or the
next. When your pup is finished with it put it in the bin for the garbage takeout
so as not to encourage flies or wasps to settle on it without the dog noticing.

I ask my butcher to cleanly cut a beef chuck bone at the 1- or 2- vertebrae
level for my dogs to chew. These are sometimes sold as “SOUP BONES” .
One neck will render 5-6 pieces for a week’s chewing by your puppy or dog. The
spaces and cavities in the chuck pieces encourage longer chewing sess ions with
the bone than a straight piece of leg bone that has no challenge to it and no bits
to clean the teeth by grinding them along the bone bits that stick out. Just freeze
the extra pieces in manageable quantities for the puppy or dog’s use.

Clean healthy teeth and healthy gums are very important for dogs. Bones
are a much cheaper and healthier option than cleaning his/her teeth by the vet
under general anesthetic. Older dogs who have not have their teeth looked after
will suffer more from broken and missing teeth and a sore mouth which causes
trouble with eating.

 Dogs with mouth decay, as with humans, have an increased chance of heart
disease and other infection problems. Sore mouths make very unhappy dogs.

Looking after his/her teeth is a great investment in the quality of your dog’s
life and cannot be overstated. He/she can’t tell you when his/her mouth is sore,
but if the teeth are snowy white and the gums pink, then you are less likely to
have gum and teeth problems.


 F. SOCIALISATION


I cannot overemphasize how important it is for you to socialize your puppy.

Transforming a puppy into an adult dog with the behaviors and temperament all
owners want is a complex matter. It requires both genetic selection for a large
number of physical and temperamental factors (35 %) and appropriate social and
behavioral development (65 %) through management, training, socialization,
nutrition and healthcare of the puppy.

At KoFuji we take particular care in breeding and selection of Japanese Spitz
with special attention to their temperaments and the structure of the dog. We are
breeding for the future of this wonderful breed, be they show/conformation dogs ,
sporting or competition dogs in the obedience world, or family pets.

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ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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We recognize that our show/breeding dogs are also family pets 100 % of the
time and aim to provide you with a puppy who has had a good start in life
(the first 35%), but for whom you will be responsible for most of the other
65 % of their development.


This is the reason why we emphasize the importance of training and socialization
and why we sell pups to families who have the time and inclination to take them
to school and put in the time socializing and enriching their lives.

I can sell you a well balanced and socialized puppy at 8-9 weeks or older, but you
have a prime responsibility to continue this work with your pup.

MAXIMIZING the POTENTIAL of your pup includes STIMULATING ITS
LEARNING ABILITY, INTERESTS AND NATURAL INSTINCTS.

There are several stages in a pup’s life when learning and/or socializing is maximized.
These include the window between 5 to 20 weeks, the adolescent period when a
puppy suddenly fears things that previously did not bother it (6-14 months) and the
maturity period.

For this reason, we encourage new owners to

      Take their puppy to puppy preschool for initial socialization (essential)

      Continue with puppy obedience classes until the puppy grows through the
       second fear (adolescent) stage

      Be mindful of the importance of socializing the puppy with all kinds of
       people (young, old, male, female, loud, with hat, beards, quiet, children
       and babies) and all kinds of dogs (pups, adults, black, brown, hairy,
       smooth coated, colored, small and tall).

      Take the dog out for regular neighborhood walks and games in the park
       to extend its social contact and awareness of the neighborhood.

This will give you a much happier and balanced adult dog who can handle anything,
who gives you great joy, fits in with your family needs and wants, and never ends up
at the pound or dog shelter.


G. SLEEP
Your pup will probably CRY for the first few nights in his/her new home. This is
normal. Any new home smells different, has different people in it, and the pup misses
his/her littermates and mother to snuggle in to at night. The pup does not know where


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ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
                                           12


he/she is and everything is different. Do not worry about this – your pup will settle
down in time. However, you might have a few sleepless nights if he/she howls or
cries. Just warn the neighbors and tell them that this crying is not expected to carry
on for too long.

We recommend that you wrap a ticking clock in a towel and put it in the pup’s bed.
This sounds like a heartbeat and will reassure the pup. It is possible to purchase a
‘puppy mate’ that has a ticking heartbeat sensation and is able to be warmed slightly
for a puppy if you feel that he/she requires a” mate” in bed. These are quite good, but
not cheap.

Your pup should sleep inside if he/she arrives in winter. Canberra is far too cold
for a young puppy to sleep outside for his first winter, even if he has a kennel.
Sleeping him/her in the laundry or garage would be an option if you do not want him
inside. He/she should be able to cope with the second winter if he has shelter and can
keep dry. My preference would be for him/her to sleep inside if at all possible in the
winter all his/her life.

   -   Crate training

If your pup is going to sleep inside, he will be happy to sleep in a traveling crate or
cage. Dogs do not find this cruel and in fact regard their crate as a “den” or place of
refuge. My pups are accustomed to this already as they see the adults put themselves
to bed in open crates in my family room when they want to get away from each other.
When they have had enough sleep or play with their toys they come out and rejoin the
rest of the world. NEVER use the crate as a place of punishment.

Put some toys and a mat or blanket in with him/her and the pup will be happy.
You need to toilet him/her late at night and first thing in the morning by taking
puppy outside immediately on waking up. Dogs and pups do not like to soil their
sleeping quarters and you will find that they will hold on once they learn a routine.
This will also save your house from accidents and build a positive relationship with
your pup when he/she first arrives.

   -   Adequate Shelter

Dogs need a dry sheltered place to sleep. They can stand very cold weather if they
are dry. For older dogs I recommend a trampoline bed made with a polyester cover
not a jute one which will stain their coats. This keeps the dog or puppy up off the
ground or concrete and some of mine sleep and play on or under the trampoline beds
in a sheltered area and in the garden. Trampoline beds also do not tend to harbor fleas
and are a better option for flea prevention than lots of loose bedding.

 Shade is a must in summer – no matter what they sleep or lie on. It can come
from especially built shelter, a verandah, or even good shade cover from trees and
bushes.


                                                                                          12

ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
                                          13


Young pups need lots of sleep interspersed with periods of great activity. Like a
human baby, never wake a sleeping puppy if it has just crashed. It will sleep for a
short period of time and wake refreshed and ready to go again. It’s just like the
energizer bunny with recharging their batteries. They only know go fast and stop and
sleep. Tired pups are cranky whiney pups.

Your dog will sleep for a significant part of the day. Mine gallop to the fence
when my car pulls into the suburb and are standing patiently there as if they had been
waiting there all day. They pretend that they have been guarding the house all day,
whereas they have been sleeping most of the time. If you have more than one
Japanese Spitz you will find that one sleeps with its eyes and ears open – watching
over the others who are absolutely fast asleep. They take turns in being the sentinel
dog, keeping watch.



 H. TRAINING

By far the most impressionable period of a dog’s lie is the short 3 -4 months
between the ages of 8 and 20 weeks. This is your big chance to set the
foundation for his/her self confidence and for him/her to become a good
canine citizen.




It is the time to accustom him/her to



      Wear a collar and walk on a leash in the garden or house

      Enjoy being brushed and combed and bathed and blow dried

      Behave in the car, and when out visiting

      Play with children (under supervision)

      Greet friends without jumping all over them

      Enjoy a romp with other puppies and dogs.



DECIDE NOW WHAT THE GROUND RULES ARE AND START TEACHING
THEM TO YOUR PUPPY . Is he/she allowed on the furniture/upstairs/on the bed


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ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
                                        14


etc? Don’t allow him/her to do cute things as a puppy that you will not permit
later in life as he grows bigger.

Never let him/her chew your hands or bite – even in play.



 I. HOUSE TRAINING


Consistency is the key to successful toilet training.

        A pup will urinate immediately it wakes up and after a meal.

If the pup is inside, gently take him/her outside to a spot in the garden where you
wish him/her to use and wait until he/she urinates. Then praise him/her. Do this
without fail, as he/she wakes up, just after he/she has eaten, or when he/she is
wandering about the floor sniffing the ground and you will have very few
accidents.

He/she wants to please you and be clean. Help him/her by giving him/her
every opportunity to urinate and poo outside. (take him/her to the same spot
every 15 minutes or so when he/she is very young. Don’t ever punish as puppy
for urinating or using his/her bowels. He has not got full control of them until he
is about 5-6 months old. You would not chastise a human baby of 12 months for
a similar accident.

                        Be fair, he isn’t being naughty.

My pups have been trained to wee on newspaper and will find paper if they
cannot get outside. The down side of this is that they do not know how to
distinguish between paper that is valuable (your homework, sheet music,
children’s artwork, maps etc) and newspaper when toileting. I do not have
carpets in the house and a pup might therefore consider a carpet a soft type of
newspaper. You will need to teach him/her that lesson – by putting him/her
outside consistently.

I find that an enzyme-based cleaner is the best for mopping up puppy spills.
My cleaner of choice is ‘BioZet”. Using cleaners with a chlorine base will
encourage the pup to use the same spot again as he /she smells the alumina in the
chlorine as being the same as in urine and thinks it’s OK to go there again.




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kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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 J. OBEDIENCE TRAINING and Teaching your dog


As mentioned above we recommend that pups be taken to puppy socialization
and/or puppy kindergarten classes and dog training classes which are conducted
by some vet surgeries, specialist day care and training centres and dog training
clubs. This allows your pup to learn good manners and to interact with other
young dogs at a time when they are non-threatening to each other.

 You still have to be careful to watch that the other dogs don’t go for a small
fluffy white dog – there are some breeds that see these dogs as prey and we
would not recommend them sharing with a Japanese Spitz. Pups, like children,
need school.

Pups are very willing to learn but they are also sensitive. You very rarely, if
ever, need to do more than use a firm slightly cross tone to get a message
through to even a young pup. Don’t break his/her spirit and don’t use harsh
corrections. A firm NO and a GENTLE TAP INDER THE CHIN is usually quite
enough.

Puppy association is essential. So that your dog has plenty of canine friends as
well as human ones, it is a good idea to take your baby puppy to Dog Obedience
Training school. They will teach you how to teach him/her. You will also learn
how to ‘read’ your dog. He/she is unique and you will find that what works for
the dog next door might not be right for your puppy.

The money you spend on classes and the time you put into training and
socializing your puppy/dog is one of the biggest and best investments you
make in the moulding of your adult dog and his/her understanding of what
is permitted and what is not. If you don’t have the time now, then this is the
wrong dog for your family as Japanese Spitz need lots of socializing g when
young to finish off with a confident and charming dog who can handle all
situations he/she finds themselves in.

Young dogs will teach themselves tricks so you may as well get in first and
teach him/her things that you want him/her to learn.

 They certainly have learnt a lot from my mothers and other adult dogs,
following them about and watching and imitating what they do. It’s amazing to
watch just how much a puppy learns in the short 6-8 weeks of its life before they
leave home. This is why I try to teach them using the Rule of Sevens developed
by Pat Hastings in the USA. By the time the puppy is seven weeks old it
should have

      Been on seven different surfaces – concrete, tiles, wood, vinyl, grass, dirt,
       gravel, woodchips etc


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kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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      Played with at least 7 different types of objects - big balls, small balls,
       soft fabric toys, squeaky toys, paper and cardboard items such as boxes,
       toilet roll inners etc, metal items, plastic bottles like cream bottles, sticks
       or hose pieces, the cat tunnel etc


      Been in 7 different locations bathroom, family room, front courtyard,
       back garden, driving in the car since they were 4 weeks old and going to
       the PO ladies and the vet car, crates, kitchen etc

      Met and played with at least 7 new people – children, older adults,
       disabled, people with loud voices, beards, hats etc men and women


      Been exposed to 7 challenges – go through the cat tunnel, climb onto and
       off trampoline beds, go down a small step to get outside, climb over
       obstacles, play hide and seek , go in and out of doorways, run around the
       boy dog’s fences

      Eaten in 7 locations – with mum, in a puppy pen, in the family room,
       outside on the pavement, in the bathroom, out in the backyard, under the
       table etc


      Eaten from 7 different containers – metal puppy plates, small plastic
       dishes, large plastic dishes, the old cake tins, glass or Pyrex dishes, small
       stainless steel dishes etc.


All by seven weeks of age




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kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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                       Hints for teaching your puppy.

1. Be patient
2. Make sure that your dog knows exactly what you want him/her to do.

3. Be patient

4. Be consistent

5. Be patient

6. Use your voice ‘tone’ to convey your message

7. be patient

8. Always praise him/her when he/she gets the message and does as you ask.
Praise should be instant for it to be effective.

9. Be patient

10 Keep training sessions short but serious - play is play and lessons are lessons

11. Try not to let mistakes occur – it’s hard to break a bad habit , and

12. Lastly, PLEASE BE PATIENT




K. EXERCISE

When your pup has become a fully grown dog he/she will appreciate a long daily
walk on a leash with a free romp in a dog safe park which is enclosed by fences
from roads and cars. He/she will quite happily trot along with you on a bike or
on a run once he has finished growing. Until then, he/she should not be given
too extensive or intensive exercise as considerable damage can be done to his
bones and ligaments with over or excessive use when he/she is growing.
Playing in the garden will give a new pup sufficient exercise until he/she has its
second shots and can go out into the wide world after the vaccination has taken.

Short walks ( no longer than 500 metres) are sufficient for a young growing pup
and you may find that you have to carry him/her home if it proves too far. After
8-9 months the walks can be extended gradually.

Never leave a lead on your dog when you are not present.

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kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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Exercise and walks for a Japanese Spitz are a social occasion as well as a
mechanism for exercise. They like to know that the neighborhood remains the
same and that no one has stolen a neighbor’s house or that new people have
moved in. They will look for other dogs and people and enjoy greeting or
acknowledging them in passing. Playing ball and fetch are also good exercise
and challenge the dog to find/retrieve it. Adult Japanese Spitz make very good
agility and flyball dogs as they enjoy the challenges of the sports and the
intellectual input to them. Their conformation calls for an agile dog and this
is what contributes to their easy walking style and effortless running about.

You no doubt will have seen your puppy tear around the backyard at great speed
doing circuits. This too is a good thing to duplicate in the dog park as the dog
will exercise more than you might want to do yourself by doing this. Teaching
them to ‘come” at puppy training is essential if you want to indulge in this
type of exercising as chasing a dog on the loose only makes it want to run
further. Sitting down and ignoring it will make it come to you as it wants to
know why you have left its’ running game.

Never tie your dog up. If he/she needs to be restrained or contained put him/her
in their crate or put him/her in a suitably fenced yard or garden.


L. GROOMING
You should start grooming your pup the day you take him/her home. Using
short grooming sessions as a bonding routine with a new pup will make it easier
to train him/her to be groomed.

Massaging or handling his/her coat, skin, feet, legs and tail will accustom
him/her to regular grooming. A compliant dog is much easier to groom and you
can set the pattern for this from the beginning.

The profuse white coat is not difficult to maintain. These dogs clean
themselves like cats and the coat tends to be non-porous. This means that your
dog can go out and roll and play in the mud, and if you let it dry naturally, it will
become a clean white dog as the dirt just drops out after it dries. You never bath
a wet muddy dog as the mud will go up the hair shaft and a dirty tinge stain the
coat.

Japanese Spitz require a good brush and combing through of the coat once a
week, and the immediate removal of any burr to avoid knots and matts. The
fundamentals of grooming a spitz include

       Keep nails short, and trim the hair between the pads (from
        underneath the foot)


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kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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       Brush then comb. 10 mins twice a week will keep your Japanese
        Spitz in perfect condition

       First brush the coat with a stiff penetrating brush. Then, taking one
        section at a time, comb through - right to the skin - with a metal
        comb.


When the dog is shedding (only for 5-6 weeks once or twice a year) make sure
the dog gets regular daily brushing and combing though – so as not to leave
loose coat the could matt or felt in the dog’s coat. Three or four baths a year
are enough unless you are showing the dog and want the coat to be super
white.

I use a tearless baby shampoo on my pups and bath them in a bucket until
about 4 months old. This is less stressful than the laundry tub and regular
soaking or cleaning in this fashion (if he/she rolls in something inappropriate)
gets your pup accustomed to being bathed. It’s also good for pooey bot toms as
soaking the residue is much easier than handling it yourself.

A hand-held drier on a low or no-heat temperature is suitable for him/her.
He/she may struggle, but putting him/her on your lap with towels under him/her
to keep you dry will make him/her feel safer.

For adult dogs I use Triocil or a white dog shampoo. You could use any
shampoo made for dogs or horses provided that it does not have a colour in it
other than blue. Really grimy spots can be scrubbed with Sunlight soap (pure
soap) before shampooing. I use a small amount of conditioner (with a sunscreen)
in the rinse water to keep the coat in good order.

Preparations for dogs are much more expensive than for human use, but do
not leave a build up in the coat (resulting sometimes in skin and coat
allergies and scratching). The exception is a tearless baby shampoo which
could be used for life on your dog.

Because Japanese spitz don’t have the traditional ‘doggy odour’, I find that
family pets can be bathed 3 or 4 times a year and look gorgeous most of the time.
In between baths, you can use a combination of sprayed water and baby powder
to get any dirty marks out of the coat, and faces and feet can be wiped down to
make them pretty. Of course, you can bath them more often than 3-4 times a
year, but please not more than once a month as it takes the natural oils out
of their skins which are more sensitive than humans.

When a Japanese Spitz sheds its coat (once a year for neutered dogs and one and
a half times for bitch), it is like a snowstorm for 6 weeks or so and they need
daily brushing at this time. If you do not brush and comb them regularly at this


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kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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time, the period of shedding is prolonged. The up-side of this is that they do not
shed all year as some short–coated breeds and crossbreeds do.

BUT, if you cannot handle an annual coat shed, or hate hair around the house
at this time, this is not the Dog for you.

YOU SHOULD never BATH A SPITZ WHEN IT IS SHEDDING COAT AS
IT CAN MATT UP LIKE A FELT PELT. The exception to this is to have a
professional groomer groom out the coat, blow out any loose hair with a hot
blow-dryer, bath the dog in a hot hydro bath and give it a final hot industrial
blow-dry to remove any loose hair without knotting or matting.

We recommend that you incorporate a professional grooming session into
your annual budget as it makes it much easier to deal with the coat shedding and
reduces the hair around your house, car, clothes etc as it stays at the parlour and
not at your place.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE PROFESSIONAL GROOMER AT THE TIME
OF COAT SHED

Wait to take the dog to the groomer until it appears to have undercoat (hair)
popping out like lumps of cotton wool

Give the dog a good groom through with a brush and comb


If a bit matted, use a professional industrial blow-dryer on the hottest
temperature the dog will tolerate to blow the coat from the roots to the ends
and out of the coat. This step is also necessary if the coat is in good order
and well groomed before starting the process as heat will release the follicle

A hot hydro bath – again using the water from the roots to outside the coat –
will clean the dog and help release any other follicles that are close to
shedding


Finish with a hot blow-dry of the coat to remove any extra hair that has
loosened

Finish off with a cold blow-dry over the coat to soothe the skin and close off
the hair follicles

The owner will get back a dog half the size of when it walked in the door .


A guide to grooming your Japanese Spitz is attached.


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ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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Tear Staining

Tear staining arises from a number of causes, including excessive tearing,
genetics, health and diet, and other contributing factors such as fleas and other
eye irritations. Prevention is better than cure and you need to know that the pink
or dark coloured staining arises because the hair under the eye remains wet,
picks up a bacteria and stains.

I do not believe in using poisonous or other chemicals near a puppy’s eyes,
and thus some pups at 8 to 14 weeks have some staining and again as they
lose their baby teeth and the new ones come in. This is in part because the
sinuses and cavities in the face are swollen and the tear ducts and tubes are
squeezed closed to take the natural flow from the eyes. This is a natural process
and can happen no matter whether the ducts are perfectly formed or otherwise.

I recommend that you just wipe the area around the face and eyes with a clean
finger or tissue or cotton wool ball to keep the area dry. Again, consistency is
the key to this. Keep the area dry and it does not stain.

Sometimes if puppy’s eyes are really round and its surrounds are thin, the
tears do not drain as readily into the ducts below the eyes. This is a genetic
problem – but not life threatening as are some problems facing other breeds.
Some dogs also get a hair caught on the eyeball that causes irritation and
much tearing. Keep an eye on your pup, as you can flush to hair out using
natural Tears available from the Chemist. This is the same product that you
might use on yourself.

If your dog has some staining as it progresses into adulthood, you could consider
using proprietary products. These include products such as

      as “Diamond Eye”cleaner,
      Eyebright drops (homeopathic),
      Kojo eye drops from the Pet Network website,
      the Eye Envy system (available from Sydney). Googling will find
       suppliers of these products.



 “Angel Eyes” is a new product from the USA that you add to the dog’s food
and is available from www.petsonthepark.com.au. I HAVE HEARD VERY
GOOD REPORTS ON THIS PRODUCT and it can be used with young pups
by adding it to food or mixing up with something he likes (e.g. sardines ).




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ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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There are many anecdotes about the causes of eye-staining, Sometimes if your
dog has fleas or mites in its ears it has eye staining and some breeders routinely
use “Leo Ear Cleaner” in pups ears as well as an eye cleaner. Others use
homeopathic measures such as “Eyebright” in the dog’s water or a few drops by
mouth to help deter the stain. (This was recommended to me by the Melbourne
Eye Clinic).

Others foolishly use unnecessary antibiotics to clear up the stain. These only
work if the eyes are infected with bacteria and should be assessed by your vet.
Do please save the use of antibiotics for more serious illnesses as, like humans;
dogs develop sensitivities and resistance to antibiotics. If you are really
worried about excessive tearstains talk to your vet about it. I find that we
have instances of staining when pups are small and teething, when it’s windy and
dust irritates eyes and if it’s really smoggy.


   M. AVOIDING CAR SICKNESS

Occasionally, pups are sick for their first few trips.

It will help to avoid this if you refrain from feeding the pup 6-8 hours before
the trip. An easy routine to introduce your pup to the car is as follows

      Sit in the car with the engine running and the car stationary, with your
       pup on your knee. Do this every day for 10 minutes a few times a day for
       a number of days
      With your pup in a crate, or on some else’s lap do a 3-minute trip around
       the block a few times
      Do not speed too fast or go around corners sharply – as this will upset a
       pups equilibrium and cause car sickness
      Gradually increase the length of the journeys – there should be no further
       problems.

If your pup does not respond to this regime, half a junket tablet one to two hours
before traveling might help. Also there are ginger preparations from health food
stores and chemists that might help also.

Your pup has been out with me in the car on many occasions and travels quite
well.

Under the law, dogs must be restrained when traveling in cars. I use crates
for my dogs, but many people use ‘doggy seatbelts’ for adult dogs. The crate
which can be used at home is suitable for the car – and has the advantage that the
dog considers if as a safe den, even in the car. Dogs should NEVER sit with a
seatbelt in a seat that has an airbag that deploys in the case of accidents .


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kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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Airbags kill dogs and you should take the same measures you would with a small
child if your dog uses a seatbelt.



N. NASTIES

       Fleas
       Ticks
       Snakes



Fleas

Fleas can be quite a problem for a coated dog – both for the persistent scratching
nuisance value and as fleas probably cause more skin disorders on dogs than
other causes put together. They affect dogs in 3 ways - blood loss, allergy
dermatitis and through transmission of other parasites or diseases.

Their readiness to transfer from one host to another and the large numbers of flea
eggs deposited in the dog’s coat and environs requires a several pronged
approach to treatment and removal of flea infestations.

My vet recommends Comfortis (spinosad) for flea control which is a chewy
tablet given once a month and it can be given to a pup from 7 weeks of age.
The makers of the product have a useful website www.elancopet.com.au which
has useful information on flea control and how to rid your home and the
dog/cat’s bedding and sleeping places of fleas. The tablets start to kill fleas
within 20 minutes and, as yet, dogs have not built up an immunity to the product
as has been the case with some other well-advertised products.

A young pup can be dusted by flea powder, e.g. Troy 7-dust. Older dogs can be
rinsed in a flea rinse after a bath but the bedding must also be treated, as fleas
spend only about 10 % of their time on the dog and the rest of the time live in the
dog’s environment – carpets, bedding, kennel, car etc. Cats can wander in and
bring back fleas to your environment which spread to your puppy. Canberra
does not tend to have lots of fleas because we lack the humidity they require to
thrive, unless they are brought in by other vectors. Canberra’s frosts also tend to
kill off fleas and break the breeding cycle. This is not the case in coastal areas
where fleas and ticks can be a much greater problem.

I know of a number of Japanese Spitz who have flea dermatitis allergies and
these require ongoing veterinary treatment. A specialist shampoo, EQyss
Microtek Pet Shampoo and Spray (available from
www.petsonthepark.com.au) seems to work well as a secondary shampoo for


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kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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itchy scratchy coats. These may help once the fleas are killed off, as they work
on the coat and sensitive skin to calm the area. It, and several other treatments in
the same range, are available to be ordered by email or phone. You leave the
shampoo on for 5 minutes and it works as a skin salve as well as a shampoo. The
Spray is used between washes to calm the itch.

There are other veterinary products and treatments for itchy dogs and I
recommend if you have fleas or itchy incessant scratching that you consult
the vet for advice.


Ticks

You should check with your vet about tick prevalence in your area or the
places you may take your dog for recreation. Again, Canberra is not tick
prone in the suburbs, but if you go bush or to the coast you will need tick
prevention spray-ons or medication. A weekend trip to the coast by some of
my dogs requires 3 weeks of medication to protect them against the paralysis tick
which will quickly kill a dog.

Dogs also require vigilant checking of the skin to guard against any
attachment of ticks to the skin. You should not squeeze the head of the tick to
remove it, but grab it by the legs underneath and pull it out carefully in one
gentle pull. Otherwise the tick will inject toxins into the dog and make it very
sick and possibly die. Do carefully check the ears, mouth, under arms and any
skin, around the anus and give the dog an “all over tick patrol” check of the skin
and coat several times a day if you are in a tick area, even if the dog is mediated
for tick prevention.

Snakes

If your area is snake-prone, you already will be taking precautions for snake
prevention around your house and garden. Obviously keeping it clear of debris
and stacked up items where snakes may nest is important. YOU WILL ALSO
NEED TO SNAKEPROOF THE AREAS WHERE YOUR PUP PLAYS AND
SLEEPS, AND BE AWARE THAT SNAKES MAY BE IN PARKS AND
BUSHLAND NEAR TO WHERE YOU LIVE OR RECREATE. I know of
several people whose dogs have been bitten at dogs’ school that have
subsequently died. Be careful – especially when snakes come into town for
water in drought times.




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kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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O. TOYS

Toys are a must. Some suggestions include

      Brand new socks tied in knots (never use socks that have been worn
       before, because even with washing the dog will think that anything that
       has been on your feet is good to chew.

      Cotton rope toys

      Tennis balls knotted into a sock (again a new sock)

      Hard solid rubber balls

      Empty soft drink or cream bottles which can be carried around, or kicked
       or rolled about

      Rawhide chew bars and rubber toys are good

      Soft toys that have had eyes and noses removed and any buttons or other
       bits that pups or dogs may swallow. Sewing up the spots allows the toy to
       survive for a while, but inevitably may become a loose body with all the
       stuffing pulled out. These limp bodied toys are just as treasured as the
       solid stuffed ones. They can be washed if they become dirty or offensive.

      I also find cardboard toilet roll inners and small boxes are good play toys
       that can be well loved and then tossed in the recycling bin when they have
       become rubbish.

Beware of brittle plastic (it splinters) and small objects that can be swallowed.
Check toys regularly and throw away damaged ones before your pup swallows
bits of dangerous material.


P. POTENTIAL KILLERS - BEWARE

Rat poison and snail bait

Pups love the taste and can be dead within one hour of consumption – HURRY
to your vet to save your pup’s life.


Cars and Traffic

When out keep your pup on a lead unless you are in a safe park. Make sure your
fences are secure and gates are padlocked. Just closed with a bolt is not good


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enough. Pups and Dogs can race out of the gate and onto the road before you
know it.



Cars and Suffocation

If you can’t be sure to find shade, leave your dog at home. Dogs can easily die
quickly in a closed hot car. I put the air-conditioning on before getting into the
car to make it more comfortable for pups and adult dogs.
A less-best option is to leave the car windows partially open - but be aware that
this is technically against the law if you have a dog in the car.

Heat Exhaustion

Make sure that your dog has a cool place to be in the heat, with shade and shelter
available to him/her. Watch out in the summer that he/she does not do too much
sun baking, as an overheated dog’s brain does not tell him/her to find somewhere
else cooler to lie. Cool your dog down using wet towels and put your dog’s feet
in water as this reduces the dog’s core temperature. Take your dog to the vet
immediately if the dog does not respond to this treatment as he/she can die
quickly from heat exhaustion. He/she may require intravenous intervention and
monitoring of his/her heart in this type of emergency.

We use one of the “clam-shell” children’s sandpit shells with one to two
inches of water in it in summer for the dogs to cool down. They play in the
water a bit, but will jump in to cool down their feet and its an alternative
“drinking water bowl” on hot days.

Snakes and spiders

Beware of long grass, woodpiles, and dams – especially in summer. Seek
antivenin treatment immediately from the vet – noting if possible the chief
offender – type, colour, size of the snake or spider

Roaming dogs

Watch carefully for free roaming unfriendly dogs when you are out walking –
nasty bites can occur and small dogs are often killed – not to mention that you
might need to go to hospital if you are bitten or mauled.

Wasp Stings

Can be dangerous for young pups and adult dogs. Don’t leave food or bones or
human food outside as it will attract wasps, bees and mosquitoes.



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kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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Sharp objects

Scan your backyard frequently for sharp pieces of metal, fiberglass, exposed
nails etc as they can inflict serious injuries. Antibiotics are often necessary to
help with these injuries.



Q. FIRST AID

Consult your vet without delay if



Your pup has a high temperature (could be a bite or toxic poisoning or serious
infection)

Your pup cuts itself. (Pads are slow to heal if not sutured.)

Your pup shakes and shivers (as for high temperature)

Your pup has an eye accident or sore or infected eye. Do not leave for later
attention as early veterinary attention can be critical in maintaining sight. Tell
the receptionist that it is an eye injury when making an immediate
appointment.

Your pup vomits more than once in 24 hours. It is quite normal for a healthy
dog to vomit occasionally. Excitement or some mildly toxic substance (e.g. an
old rotten bone) can cause a ‘one-off’ vomit. If loose motions or further
vomiting accompanies this consult your vet at once.


If your pup has loose bowels – either consistently, or any motion with blood
in it. This can be an indicator of stress or infection or the by-product of
swallowing poison.

Pups with vomiting and diarrhea can quickly lose their immunity to fighting
off infection and go downhill quickly. Often a broad spectrum antibiotic for
several days will clear it up, especially if it originates as a stress reaction with
subsequent lowered immunity to a roving bacteria. At the worst it could be a
parvo-virus response if he has been out in places where he might pick it up
before being fully immunized.




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kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
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If you think your dog has eaten stones or something it shouldn’t have that
might have got stuck. Again, this is often accompanied by vomiting or dry
retching to try to cough up the offending article.

If your dog falls from a height or is dropped and is limping or screaming. It
may have broken bones or have other internal injuries.

Your dog is heat exhausted. Treatment is essential very quickly. You can
cool the dog sown by hosing it with continuous running water as a first response
and put it on a wet/ice cold towel for the trip to the vet.




R. MICROCHIPPING


Some states of Australia require compulsory micro chipping of dogs. We
recommend that you discuss this with your vet and have them implant a
microchip that works in your local area, is put directly into your name and not
mine and is registered with the local authorities. Micro chipping should ensure
that if your dog is found he/she will come home.

Your dog has been micro chipped if local or state law requires it at 8 week s.
Otherwise I am a firm believer that they should be done when the pup is a
little older as young Japanese Spitz don’t have a large pull-up of flesh at
their neck when very young.

 Micro chipping in your local area and on a local registry is preferable.
Sometimes the microchip papers can take months and months to come back to
new owners – and I can’t do anything about it if the pup is micro-chipped in your
name.

 If at all possible, waiting for the general anesthetic when being neutered is most
humane for micro chipping.

Also we don’t run the risk of the “wrong pup/ wrong microchip” being identified
with litters of all-white puppies that grow so fast and tend to eat the identifiers,
be they collars, nail polish on the coat etc.

It can sometimes take months for the actual microchip papers to come back from
the registry and they then have to be transferred into your name. I have no
control over the delay in this matter as it is in the hands of the Australian Animal
Registry. At least if your vet does it, the puppy is in your name and not mine
if it gets lost/stolen/registered for the council.



                                                                                       28

ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
                                        29


   S. REGISTRATION OF YOUR DOG WITH THE COUNCIL


Registration of dogs is compulsory in all states of Australia.

In the ACT as in NSW a dog is registered with the Council on a lifetime basis. It
is generally cheaper if the dog has been desexed, and in Canberra you must have
a permit for a dog which as not been desexed (i.e. is entire).

Please comply with the law, as I would not wish that the pup that I b red ended up
in the pound and was euthanized because its family could not be found because
he/she was not registered with the Council.

T. GARDENING

Japanese spitz and exhibition style gardens do not mix well unless you provide a
separate yard for them as they dig. All pups dig and can chew water systems and
plants, so they need some supervision in the garden or be somewhere where they
or it won’t come to harm.

Although said tongue in cheek that you should’ kiss your garden goodbye’,
you should be aware that any dog, no matter what breed or mixed breed, will
dig in a garden and will chew anything that catches its eyes.

You also need to be careful about poisonous plants that affect dogs – as they do
children. I know of several dogs that have been poisoned slowly though chewing
inappropriate plant or chemical materials.

U. FURTHER READING AND CONTACTS

I have attached a list of some useful books you might want to refer to and a
website as a purchase contact point for them.

There are lots of dog books and TV programs that are good education for
the dog owner and I recommend that you purchase or watch them occasionally
and put their advice into effect.

Also there are quite a number of websites for dog supplies and training that are
fun to surf and order from as you might have trouble sourcing some things
locally.




                                                                                     29

ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
                                        30


Such sites include

www.petnetwork.com.au       www.vetproductsdirect.com.

www.dogzonline.com.au has a large number of advertisers on their site. It also
has the contact details for all the purebred dog controls in the various states of
Australia. These controls can give you contact details for some dog training
schools conducted by member clubs that are reasonably priced. Also they can
give you details of where and when dog shows are on in your area – where you
can meet up with a number of traders in products (shampoos, leads, crates etc
etc)

www.fordogsake.com.au is a good site for dog training in Sydney. If you live or
work near Chippendale, I recommend that you investigate this centre as they
train dogs, provide doggy day care, have a small shop outlet for food leads
shampoo, grooming products etc, and conduct special “Japanese Spitz days”
once a week to socialize your dog. The owner has a great deal of experience
with this delightful breed.

www.petsonthepark.com.au also has a number of very useful products for pups
and dogs. They import from the USA a number of things that others do not.

Your vet may also help to find a puppy preschool or local dog training and
have information about local activities for dogs and their owners .




V. PLEASE KEEP IN CONTACT WITH ME

Lastly, please don’t hesitate to telephone me if you have queries regarding your
pup or its welfare.

We would appreciate the occasional photo of your pup and progress reports on
him to keep track of our breeding program. I am always keen to know that your
dog is a valued member of your family. Also it is important to know that your
dog is happy and healthy and that I am doing the right things to ensure the health
and future of this wonderful breed.




                                                                                     30

ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
                                        31




ALDITH GRAVES
http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au




                                                      31

ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au
                                   32




                                                      32

ALDITH GRAVES http://webs.dogs.net.au/japanesespitz
kofujijapspitz@yahoo.com.au

				
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