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Eco Ethical Fair Trade Gems

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Eco Ethical Fair Trade Gems Powered By Docstoc
					Eco, Ethical & Fair Trade Gems!
Facilitated by: Bill Gallagher, CEO, Lori Bonn Design, Inc.!
Co-facilitator: Meghan Connolly Haupt, C5 & SuLusso!
February 5, 2010!
Introduction | Bill Gallagher!




                                 Bill Gallagher, CEO!
                                 Lori Bonn Design, Inc.!
                                 Woman-owned business founded in 1991!
                                 Sterling silver & semi-precious stones!
                                 Clear Conscience Jewelry™ Initiative!
Introduction | Meghan Connolly Haupt!




                                        Meghan Connolly Haupt!
                                        C5 & SuLusso        !

                                        Sustainable fine jewelry brand with
                                        custom services and collections!
                                        Sulusso.com - Online retailer of jewelry
                                        from select sustainable designers!
                                        Wear Your Commitment™!
Session Inspiration!




1) Current Economic Conditions!

2) Predictable Future!

3) Collaborative Spark!
Session Goal & Scope!


Outcome: !
Participants will discover fresh new ideas and resources for
eco, ethical or fair trade jewelry that they can use immediately.!

Today We Will: !
Bring together gem producers with retailers, designers,
manufacturers, and others, to share the current activity in the
sector, the issues, challenges, and discover resources for eco,
ethical or fair trade gems.!

In this Session We Wonʼt: !
Debate, discuss, or define the standards, approaches, process,
or terms!
Session Outline!




Part I     !Introductions & Current Activity!
Part II    !Issues & Challenges!
Part III   !Needs & Wants!
Part IV    !Resources & Ideas!
Part V     !Next Steps!
Introductions and Current Activity!




1.    Name!
2.    Company or Organization!
3.    City and Country!
4.    What we are currently doing with
      eco, ethical, or fair trade gems
      is ________________________!
Current Activity - Survey!
      Session	
  Notes:	
  	
  Current	
  Ac0vity	
  &	
  A4endees	
  
•    Peggy	
  Jo	
  Donohue	
  –	
  Dir	
  Pub	
  Affairs	
  MJSA	
                                                      •    Marc	
  Choyt	
  –	
  Reflec0ve	
  Images,	
  FairJewelry.org	
  
       –              Membership	
  primarily	
  of	
  fine	
  jewelry	
                                                         –          Challenged	
  to	
  get	
  semi	
  precious	
  ethically	
  sourced	
  stones	
  
•    Josh	
  -­‐	
  Tahi0an	
  Pearls	
                                                                                         –          Has	
  migrated	
  company	
  to	
  be	
  more	
  sustainable	
  
       –              Interested	
  in	
  sustainable	
  pearl	
  farming	
                                                     –          Switched	
  produc0on	
  to	
  full	
  recycled	
  metals	
  (Hoover	
  &	
  Strong)	
  
•    Lori	
  Bonn	
  Gallagher	
  –	
  Lori	
  Bonn	
                                                                           –          FairJewelry.org	
  –	
  trade	
  and	
  consumer	
  resource	
  on	
  issues	
  in	
  gem	
  
       –              Silver	
  produc0on	
  with	
  stones	
  that	
  are	
  completely	
  traceable	
  from	
                            trade,	
  central	
  place	
  for	
  informa0on	
  
                      ground	
  up	
                                                                                            –          Believes	
  in	
  market	
  driven	
  change	
  through	
  educa0on	
  	
  
       –              Need	
  variety	
  of	
  price	
  points	
  and	
  stones	
                                       •    Wade	
  Watson	
  –	
  Ruff	
  &	
  Cut	
  
       –              Challenged	
  by	
  using	
  100%	
  recycled	
  silver	
  and	
  ethical	
  gems	
                       –          Cer0fied	
  Hoover	
  &	
  Strong	
  metals	
  
       –              Produc0on	
  in	
  Bali	
  makes	
  use	
  of	
  recycled	
  metals	
  challenging	
                      –          Traceable	
  diamonds	
  
•    Guy	
  Clu4erbuck	
  –	
  colored	
  stone	
  gem	
  dealer	
                                                              –          Co-­‐founded	
  ethical	
  diamond	
  mine	
  in	
  Sierra	
  Leone	
  
       –              Personally	
  invested	
  in	
  two	
  mines	
  in	
  Africa	
                                            –          Need	
  to	
  engage	
  retailers	
  in	
  discussion	
  
       –              Emeralds,	
  Aquamarines	
                                                                                –          Automobile	
  and	
  technology	
  industry	
  increasingly	
  concerned	
  about	
  
       –              Focused	
  on	
  long	
  term	
  rela0onships	
  with	
  communi0es	
                                                metal	
  sourcing	
  as	
  well	
  
       –              Trust	
  is	
  key	
                                                                                      –          Issues	
  with	
  mining	
  go	
  beyond	
  jewelry	
  sector	
  to	
  electronics	
  and	
  
•    Helen	
  Chantler	
  –	
  Reflec0ve	
  Images,	
  FairJewelry.org	
                                                                    other	
  consumer	
  products	
  
       –              Moved	
  to	
  all	
  recycled	
  metals	
  	
                                                            –          Chain	
  of	
  custody	
  increasingly	
  important	
  
       –              Produc0on	
  in	
  Bali	
                                                                         •    Helena	
  Krodel	
  –	
  Jewelers	
  of	
  America	
  
       –              Trying	
  to	
  use	
  all	
  ethically	
  sourced	
  stones	
                                            –          Educates	
  consumers	
  about	
  industry	
  trends	
  
       –              Challenge	
  with	
  semi-­‐precious	
  gems	
                                                            –          Just	
  released	
  statement	
  about	
  Zimbabwe	
  diamonds	
  
       –              Greg	
  Valerio	
  –	
  Founder	
  of	
  Cred	
  Jewelry	
                                                –          Self-­‐assessment	
  checklist	
  for	
  retailers	
  
       –              Fair	
  trade	
  jewelry	
  company	
                                                             •    Eric	
  Grossberg	
  –	
  Brilliant	
  Earth	
  
                                                                                                                                –          Traceable	
  origin	
  gemstones	
  
       –              Transparency	
  from	
  mine	
  to	
  retail	
  
                                                                                                                                –          Recycled	
  precious	
  metals	
  
       –              LeZ	
  company	
  to	
  work	
  more	
  broadly	
  on	
  sustainability	
  issues	
  
                                                                                                                                –          Supports	
  fair-­‐trade	
  ini0a0ves	
  and	
  suppliers	
  
       –              Working	
  on	
  cer0fied	
  fair	
  trade	
  gold	
  
                                                                                                                        •    David	
  Wa4	
  –	
  Becky	
  Thatcher	
  Design	
  
       –              Working	
  with	
  FLO	
  (based	
  in	
  Germany)	
  to	
  mentor	
  them	
  in	
  jewelry	
  
                      arena	
                                                                                                   –          Learn	
  how	
  to	
  dis0nguish	
  business	
  with	
  integrity	
  
       –              Emphasis	
  on	
  small	
  scale	
  miners	
  to	
  maximize	
  benefit	
  to	
  them	
                    –          Here	
  to	
  learn	
  	
  
•    Tom	
  Cushman	
  –	
  gem	
  dealer	
  from	
  Madagascar	
                                                       •    Jack	
  –	
  Magazine	
  publisher	
  
       –              Helped	
  build	
  facility	
  in	
  Madagascar	
                                                         –          Educator	
  in	
  Madagascar	
  
                                                                                                                                –          Teach	
  gemology	
  
                                                                                                                                –          Would	
  like	
  to	
  reach	
  new	
  designers	
  and	
  jewelers	
  early	
  in	
  the	
  
                                                                                                                                           process	
  
      Session	
  Notes:	
  	
  Current	
  Ac0vity	
  &	
  A4endees	
  	
  
•    Dennis	
  Nelson	
  –	
  	
                                                                               •    Sarah	
  Young	
  –	
  Online	
  jewelry	
  bou0que	
  
        –         Resellers	
  of	
  jewelry	
                                                                        –        Wants	
  to	
  make	
  business	
  as	
  sustainable	
  as	
  possible	
  
        –         Deal	
  with	
  many	
  different	
  suppliers	
                                              •    Barbara	
  Lawrence	
  –	
  Foster	
  Gems	
  
        –         Sympathe0c	
  to	
  topic	
                                                                         –        One	
  of	
  first	
  woman	
  buyer	
  in	
  Asia	
  –	
  helped	
  develop	
  strong	
  
        –         Personally	
  supports	
  sustainable	
  ini0a0ves	
                                                         rela0onship	
  over	
  the	
  years	
  
        –         New	
  to	
  conversa0on	
                                                                   •    Becky	
  Shefler	
  –	
  Stone	
  buyer	
  for	
  Rio	
  Grande	
  
•    Eric	
  Braunwurt	
  –	
  Columbia	
  Gem	
  House	
                                                             –        Challenges	
  with	
  raw	
  materials	
  and	
  gemstones	
  
        –         Transparency	
  is	
  key	
  	
                                                                     –        Large	
  customer	
  base	
  –	
  concern	
  across	
  the	
  spectrum	
  (price,	
  
        –         Publish	
  posi0ons	
  on	
  these	
  issues	
  on	
  website	
                                              sourcing)	
  
                                                                                                                      –        Want	
  to	
  be	
  able	
  to	
  serve	
  diverse	
  needs	
  of	
  suppliers	
  
        –         Work	
  as	
  owners	
  of	
  mines	
  and	
  in	
  joint	
  ventures	
  with	
  mines	
  
                                                                                                                      –        Larger	
  group	
  of	
  people	
  who	
  don’t	
  get	
  it	
  than	
  those	
  that	
  do	
  get	
  it	
  
        –         Lobbied	
  congress	
  on	
  issues	
  
                                                                                                               •    Kathy	
  McCloskey	
  –	
  Anthropologist	
  
        –         Cucng	
  opera0on	
  	
  
        –         Working	
  on	
  secng	
  up	
  cucng	
  opera0on	
  in	
  South	
  Africa	
                        –        Husband	
  is	
  lapidary	
  
        –         Working	
  on	
  offering	
  wider	
  range	
  of	
  gems	
                                          –        Wasn’t	
  aware	
  that	
  any	
  discussion	
  around	
  fair	
  trade	
  was	
  happening	
  
                                                                                                                               in	
  jewelry	
  
        –         The	
  cheaper	
  the	
  product	
  the	
  harder	
  to	
  source	
  
                                                                                                               •    Robin	
  Hawk	
  –	
  Blogger	
  
        –         Working	
  on	
  global	
  presence	
  
                                                                                                                      –        Was	
  a	
  jeweler,	
  miner	
  in	
  US	
  
        –         Shore	
  Bank	
  –	
  only	
  funds	
  socially	
  responsible	
  companies	
  
                                                                                                                      –        Here	
  to	
  get	
  informa0on	
  
•    William	
  Rohert	
  –	
  Gemologist	
  
                                                                                                                      –        @aflyonthewall	
  
        –         Work	
  in	
  Columbia,	
  Greenland	
  as	
  well	
  as	
  other	
  countries	
  
                                                                                                                      –        @tucsongemshow	
  
        –         Consultant,	
  mentor	
  
                                                                                                               •    Veronica	
  Po0te	
  –	
  Gemologist	
  
•    Jessica	
  –	
  Designer,	
  goldsmith	
  
                                                                                                                      –        Founder	
  of	
  Jewelers	
  Ethics	
  Associa0on	
  
        –         Trying	
  to	
  make	
  products	
  as	
  ethical	
  as	
  possible	
  
                                                                                                                      –        Here	
  to	
  listen	
  and	
  learn	
  
•    Jim	
  Fiebig	
  –	
  Former	
  retail	
  store	
  owner	
  
                                                                                                               •    Chris0ne	
  Dhein	
  –	
  Asst.	
  Director	
  of	
  Revere	
  Academy	
  
        –         Sources	
  own	
  gems	
  
                                                                                                                      –        Started	
  green	
  jewelry	
  class	
  at	
  academy	
  
        –         Has	
  focused	
  on	
  Madagascar	
  past	
  five	
  years	
  
                                                                                                                      –        Green	
  Jewelry	
  News	
  newsle4er	
  –	
  to	
  educate	
  
        –         Now	
  Global	
  Sales	
  Director	
  for	
  Zultanite	
  
                                                                                                               •    Terrance	
  Cruzo	
  –T’s	
  Treasures	
  
        –         Protect	
  rights	
  of	
  only	
  source	
  of	
  the	
  gem	
  
                                                                                                                      –        Stone	
  buyer	
  for	
  wife’s	
  jewelry	
  company	
  
        –         Challenge	
  selling	
  gem	
  to	
  retailers	
  
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  	
  
                                                                                                                      –        Concerned	
  with	
  sourcing	
  of	
  gems	
  
                                                                                                                      –        Doesn’t	
  feel	
  he	
  is	
  able	
  to	
  get	
  accurate	
  informa0on	
  all	
  the	
  0me
Issues & Challenges!




What issues or challenges
are you facing now with
eco, ethical, or fair trade
gems?!
Issues & Challenges - Survey!




Supplier Issues:!                                    Buyer Issues:!
•  No	
  agreement	
  on	
  standards	
              •  Limited	
  choice	
  of	
  vendors	
  
•  No	
  ind.	
  cer0fica0on	
  credibility	
         •  Limited	
  choice	
  of	
  gemstones	
  
   of	
  sources	
                                   •  Limited	
  informa0on	
  on	
  supply	
  
•  Lack	
  of	
  stone	
  choice	
                      chain	
  
                                                     •  No	
  independent	
  cer0fica0on	
  
•  Lack	
  of	
  interest	
  from	
  consumers	
  
                                                     •  No	
  agreement	
  on	
  standards	
  
•  Small	
  orders	
  –	
  expensive	
  to	
  
                                                     •  Where	
  to	
  start	
  
   fulfill	
  
                                                     •  Cost!
                Session	
  Notes:	
  Challenges	
  
•    Gecng	
  fair	
  price	
  for	
  pearls	
  that	
  supports	
  local	
  farmers	
  
•    Not	
  enough	
  gem	
  suppliers	
  
•    Range	
  of	
  op0ons	
  
•    Import	
  regula0ons,	
  du0es,	
  taxes	
  
•    Affordability	
  for	
  mass	
  market	
  
•    Buyers	
  not	
  apprecia0ng	
  the	
  efforts	
  for	
  designers	
  to	
  offer	
  ethically	
  sourced	
  
•    Not	
  enough	
  consumer	
  demand	
  
•    How	
  to	
  educate	
  appropriately	
  
•    Funding	
  for	
  cer0fica0on,	
  secng	
  up	
  fair	
  trade	
  coopera0ves	
  (relying	
  on	
  big	
  business)	
  
•    Splintering	
  of	
  conversa0on	
  (many	
  different	
  efforts	
  taking	
  place)	
  
•    Difficult	
  for	
  consumer	
  to	
  understand	
  issues	
  
•    Partnering	
  for	
  change	
  as	
  opposed	
  to	
  helping	
  for	
  change	
  
•    Governments	
  that	
  support	
  big	
  business	
  over	
  ar0sanal	
  miners	
  
•    Gecng	
  consumers	
  to	
  drive	
  movement	
  
•    Substan0ve	
  story,	
  what	
  does	
  it	
  mean	
  
•    Prolific	
  misinforma0on	
  gecng	
  to	
  consumers	
  	
  
Needs & Wants!




What do you need or want
for your eco, ethical or
fair trade business?!
Needs & Wants - Survey!




Suppliers want customers!
Buyers want more suppliers!
Everyone wants choices,
information, transparency,
standards, & independent
certification!
          Session	
  Notes:	
  Needs/Wants	
  
•  Streamlined	
  communica0on	
  by	
  those	
  in	
  the	
  movement	
  to	
  address	
  
   misinforma0on	
  
•  What	
  is	
  the	
  premium	
  that	
  is	
  acceptable	
  to	
  buyers?	
  
•  How	
  protect	
  from	
  fraud?	
  
•  How	
  not	
  to	
  shoot	
  ourselves	
  in	
  the	
  foot	
  by	
  making	
  our	
  industry	
  ex0nct?	
  
•  Focus	
  on	
  posi0ve	
  story	
  	
  
•  Keep	
  surfacing	
  issues	
  in	
  construc0ve	
  way	
  to	
  find	
  solu0ons	
  
•  Awareness	
  of	
  contradic0ons	
  and	
  poli0cs	
  
•  Movie	
  like	
  Food,	
  Inc.	
  for	
  jewelry	
  industry	
  
•  People	
  recognizing	
  impact	
  of	
  their	
  personal	
  decisions	
  
•  Coordinated	
  and	
  strong	
  body,	
  voice,	
  en0ty	
  
•  “Truth	
  will	
  move	
  the	
  market.”	
  
Ideas & Resources!




What resources or
ideas would you like to
share for eco, ethical or
fair trade?!
Ideas & Resources - Survey!



Things to contribute:!
   •    Dissemina0ng	
  informa0on	
                           •  Develop	
  Ar0sanal	
  Small	
  Scale	
  
   •    Organizing	
  or	
  leading	
  mee0ngs	
                  mining	
  	
  
   •    Research	
  and	
  reports	
  	
                       •  Educa0ng	
  how	
  to	
  SELL	
  gemstones	
  
   •    Pos0ng	
  new	
  developments	
  on	
                  •  Leading	
  of	
  groups	
  to	
  end	
  of	
  
        blog	
  	
                                                unfairness	
  &	
  corrup0on	
  	
  
   •    Sharing	
  info	
  via	
  "Green	
  Jewelry	
          •  Mailing	
  list	
  of	
  2,000	
  independents	
  	
  
        News"	
  	
                                            •  Promote	
  and	
  use	
  only	
  fair	
  trade	
  
   •    Wri0ng	
  about	
  it	
  and	
  explaining	
  to	
        gems	
  	
  
        consumers	
                                            •  Using	
  ethical	
  gems	
  in	
  my	
  own	
  
   •    Outreach	
  to	
  industry	
                              jewelry	
  	
  
   •    Disseminate	
  informa0on	
  in	
  our	
               •  Teach	
  students	
  how	
  to	
  have	
  an	
  
        publica0ons	
                                             earth-­‐friendly	
  profit	
  
   •    Working	
  with	
  poor	
  communi0es	
                •  Would	
  love	
  to	
  sponsor	
  events	
  !
        on	
  children’s	
  needs	
  
                     Session	
  Notes:	
  Ideas	
  
•  Intro	
  sessions	
  on	
  how	
  to	
  get	
  started	
  for	
  jewelers,	
  designers,	
  
   gem	
  suppliers	
  and	
  others	
  on	
  how	
  to	
  get	
  started:	
  First	
  Steps	
  on	
  
   the	
  Road	
  to	
  Fair	
  Trade	
  Jewelry	
  
•  Another	
  Madison	
  Dialogue	
  summit	
  
•  A	
  session	
  to	
  define	
  terms	
  
•  A	
  credible	
  en0ty/leader	
  to	
  balance/nego0ate	
  the	
  various	
  
   points	
  of	
  view	
  on	
  approach	
  and	
  standards	
  
•  A	
  posi0ve	
  PR	
  campaign	
  to	
  make	
  it	
  sexy	
  like	
  “Got	
  Milk?”	
  
•  Sessions	
  at	
  JCK,	
  JA,	
  Bangkok,	
  Etc.	
  
•  A	
  directory	
  to	
  find	
  suppliers	
  and	
  customers	
  for	
  gems	
  
•  Carbon	
  Offset	
  credits	
  to	
  fund	
  cer0fica0on	
  
Next Steps!




Session & survey results     !




Resource Directory!
Please turn in sheets now!
Parting Thoughts!




What are you taking away
from today?         !




What would you like at the
next session?!
Thank you!

				
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