Textile Fibers

							Chapter 11
 A fiber is the basic unit that makes fabric-similar to fine
  strands of hair. Various substances and materials used to
  make fabrics
 Yarn-Fibers twisted together or laid side by side.
   By weaving or knitting yarns together, different textiles can be
     made.
 Classified or grouped according to source of origin:
   Natural fibers come from natural sources, such as plants &
    animals
   Manufactured fibers (Synthetic)- “Man-Made” fibers
    developed during scientific experimentation. These are made
    from substances such as wood pulp, petroleum, natural gas,
    air, & water.
 Generic name- indicates a general classification of
 fibers of similar composition-
   Must be listed on textile products
 Trade name- registered as trademarks and are
 protected by law.
   Polyester (generic)-Dacron® (trade name)-DuPont
    Product
   Acrilan ®--Solutia product
   Fortel ®--Wellman Product
 Strength-Fibers have different tensile strengths, the
    ability to withstand tension or pulling.
   Durability- will the fiber resist wear and decay?
   Resiliency- is the fiber resilient, able to spring back
    into shape after crushing or wrinkling?
   Elasticity- when the fiber is stretched, does the
    original length return?
   Abrasion Resistance- will the fiber resist abrasion?
    Abrasion is a worn spot that can develop when fibers
    rub against something.
 Wrinkle Resistance- do the fibers resist wrinkling?
  Polyester is very wrinkle-resistant, but cotton and
  rayon wrinkle easily.
 Shape Retention- will the fiber keep its shape after
  wearing or cleaning it? Some fibers stretch when the
  garment is worn, others shrink when exposed to water
  or heat.
 Luster- how will the fiber affect fabric appearance?
  Some fibers have luster, or sheen, created by the
  amount of reflected light.
 Absorbency- is a fiber able to take in moisture?
  Cotton and wool are very absorbent. Polyester and
  nylon are not absorbent.
 Wicking- does the fiber draw moisture away from the
  body?
 Washability- can the fiber be washed or must it be dry-
  cleaned?
 Natural Fibers-are those that exist in nature.
 Changed only slightly during processing.
   Cotton-come for the seedpod of a cotton plant.
   Different varieties causing them to produce different
    lengths.
      Long fibers produce fine, smooth, lustrous fabrics.
      Shorter fibers go into coarser fabrics such as cotton
       denim used to make blue jeans.
   Cotton is versatile, absorbent, and a durable fiber.
 Linen
   Flax is used to make linen.
   Flax is obtained from the woody stalk of the flax plant.
   Flax is the oldest known fiber used for fabrics
   Linen is known for its strength, durability, absorbency,
    and luster.
   Flax makes the coolest fabric you can wear.
   Linen wrinkles and creases easily like cotton, unless
    treated with a special finish.
 Wool
   Is a protein fiber, comes from the fleece of sheep.
   Wool is an absorbent, resilient, and elastic fiber and the
    warmest of all fibers.
   It can also feel cool in lightweight fabrics.
   Wool fibers allow the fabrics to breath.
   Is very comfortable and durable fabric.
 Silk
   Was first produced in china where the process of
    sericulture was kept secret for more than 2,000 years.
   Silk is a fiber excreted from the silkworm when it builds
    its cocoon. The cocoons are then soaked in warm water
    and unwound as one continues filament about 1,000 feet
    long.
   The filaments are then twisted to form yarns for the
    manufacture of silk fabrics.
   Silk is a strong, lustrous, elastic, and absorbent.
 Ramie
   Obtained from the stalks of china grass, which is grown
    in Southeast Asia
   Is a linen-like fiber that is strong, durable, washable and
    lustrous.
   Ramie absorbs body moisture, dries quickly, and absorbs
    dies readily.
Fiber Name & Advantages                         Disadvantages               Care                Uses
Source
Cotton (Cotton         Extremely Versatile:     Not resilient or elastic;   Easily laundered    Shirts, sweaters;
Plant)                 strong & durable:        wrinkles unless             at high             dresses; jeans;
U.S., China, India,    comfortable 7 soft;      treated; will mildew;       temperature; can    underwear; socks,
Egypt                  absorbs moisture;        flammable                   be ironed at high   diapers, towels,
                       doesn’t cling or pill;                               temperature         sheets, placemats;
                       dyes easily                                                              napkins; curtains;
                                                                                                upholstery
Flax (Flax plant)      Stronger than            Not resilient; wrinkles     Easily laundered;   Blouses, dresses;
Russia, Poland,        cotton; comfortable;     easily; shrinks unless      can be ironed at    pants, suits,
Netherlands,           absorbs moisture;        treated; will mildew;       high temperature    handkerchiefs,
Belgium, France        durable; lint-free;      hard-to-remove                                  towels, tablecloths,
                       dries faster than        creases                                         napkins, draperies
                       cotton
Wool (sheep)           Very versatile;          Damaged by moths            Usually dry         Coats, suits, slacks,
Australia, New         provides warmth;         and other insects;          cleaned;            sweaters, socks,
Zealand, South         durable; very            shrinks and mats; may       sometimes           blankets, rugs,
Africa, U.S; Russia,   resilient; resist        pill; absorbs odor          washable; iron at   carpets
China, Argentina,      wrinkling; absorbs                                   low temperature
Turkey                 moisture; resists
                       abrasion; naturally
                       flame resistant
Silk (Cocoon of        Natural luster;          Weakened by sunlight;       Usually dry-        Blouses, dresses,
silkworm) China,       strong yet light-        perspiration; high iron     cleaned;            lingerie, scarves,
India, South Korea,    weight; smooth;          temperature; may            sometimes           ties, bridal gowns,
Brazil                 absorbs moisture         yellow with age; may        washable; iron at   draperies,
                                                water spot                  low temperature     upholstery
 Specialty animal fibers
   Camel Hair
   Cashmere
   Llama
   Mohair
   Vicuna
 Natural rubber
   Made from latex
   A milky liquid that comes from rubber trees
 Produced artificially from substances such as cellulose,
 oil products, and chemicals.
   Cellulose-fibrous substance from plants
   Non-cellulosic- developed from chemicals
 Manufactured fibers are categorized by chemical
 composition and broken up into 24 genetic groups.
 Manufactured Fibers go through the same basic steps
   Solid raw materials or chemicals are changed to liquid
    form
   Liquid is then extruded or forced through a spinneret, a
    small nozzle with many holes
      Wet spinning-dried in a chemical bath
      Dry Spinning-hardened with warm air
      Melt spinning-harden with cool air
   This liquid hardens and becomes filaments
 Cellulosic fibers- the four Cellulosic fibers are:
   Rayon
   Lyocell
   Acetate
   Triacetate
   They are produced from wood pulp, with a minimum of
    chemical steps
 Non-cellulosic fibers- all other manufactured fibers
  are made from carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen, & oxygen
  molecules rather than wood pulp
   Molecules are linked together into long chains called
    polymers
 Many resemble natural fibers, but each generic fiber
 has its own unique properties
   Rayon- 1st manufactured fiber, cellulosic fiber- from
    wood pulp
      Absorbent & comfortable to wear
      Its soft, drapes easily, & has a nice luster
      Dyes well and can be printed with bright designs
      Some rayon fabrics are washable but most must be dry-
       cleaned
      Wrinkles easily and can shrink
 Polyester-one of the most widely used manufactured
 fibers
   Strong, high-performance fiber is used alone or blended
    with many fibers, especially cotton
   Has excellent resilience & outstanding wrinkle
    resistance
   Doesn’t stretch or shrink
   Washes easily, dries quickly, & needs little or no pressing
 Nylon- was introduced in 1939 as the “miracle fiber”
 due to its
   Excellent strength, elasticity & washability
   Made from petroleum chemicals
   Was the first non-cellulosic fiber
 Lyocell- newest generic fiber made from wood pulp
   Breathable, absorbent & generally comfortable to wear
   Luster & soft drapability
   Tends to wrinkle
   Light ironing
   Susceptible to damage from mildew & silverfish, small
    wingless insects
 Acrylic and Modacrylic
   Acrylic- is a soft, resilient fiber that resists wrinkles,
    offers warmth. Can be washed or dry-cleaned
   Modacrylic- share many of the characteristics of acrylic
    fibers-looks like fur
 Acetate-Cellulosic fiber-similar to rayon-absorbent &
  dies faster than rayon-silky appearance
 Triacetate-Drapable & silky feeling-is not as sensitive
  to heat as acetate
 Olefin-strong, lightweight, and quick drying-good
  resistance to abrasion, perspiration, soil, & mildew-
  sensitive to heat & light-doesn’t absorb moisture &
  difficult to die
 Spandex- elastic fiber with excellent stretchability and
  recovery- can be damaged by chlorine
 Metallic-added to fabrics mostly for decoration- some
  made entirely of metal, & some are combined with
  plastic
 Aramid- Exceptional strength & heat & flame
  resistance- maintain their shape & form at high
  temperatures- often found in the protective clothing
  worn by firefighters
 A continuous strand made by combining staple fibers
 or filaments
   Spun yarns-spinning staple fibers together
      All natural fibers except Silk, Manufactured fibers can be cut
       into staple fibers
      Spun yarns are fuzzier and more irregular
   Filament yarns-made from filaments
      Long continuous fibers measured in yards and meters
      Smoother and more lustrous
 Twist yarns brings the fibers closer together and
  increases yarn strength, necessary for spun yarns
    The more twist the less lustrous, more compact, and harder it
     becomes.
    A low twist, used in filament yarns, they are soft and lustrous
 Single yarns- twisting together fibers or filaments
 Ply yarns- twisting two or more single yarns
  together
 Cord yarns- two or more ply yarns are twisted
  together
   Textured-crimped, coiled or looped
 Blended yarns- spinning different staple fibers
  together
 Combination yarns- twisting two different single
  yarns into a ply yarn
 Novelty Yarns
   Two or more yarns that are not alike in type or size are
    combined to construct
   Often have loops and different thicknesses
   Twisting a thin and shiny filament with a spun yarn
   Sometimes three yarns are used
      One yarn is the base yarn, another creates the decorative
       effect, and third acts as a tie or binder
 Textured Yarns
    Uses chemicals, heat, or special machinery to turn the
     straight, rod-like filaments into:
      Coiled, looped or crimped
   Gives a softer feeling
   Increases stretch and recovery of yarns
   Improved wrinkle resistance
   More breathability
   More comfortable to wear
   Helps prevent static buildup
 Weaving
   Composed of two sets of yarns at right angles to each
      other, interfacing these two sets of yarns to produce a
      fabric is called weaving
     Done on looms
     Grain-the direction the yarns run
     Warp yarns- run along the lengthwise grain
     Filling yarns- run along the crosswise grain
     Selvage- formed along the lengthwise edges of the fabric
      where the filling yarns changed direction during
      weaving
     Bias- any line diagonal to the lengthwise or crosswise
      grain, a true bias runs at a 45 degree angle to the selvage-
      gives the most stretch to the fabric
 Simplest weave
 Filling yarns pass over and
 under each warp yarn
   Creates a balanced weave
 Used for shirts, handkerchiefs,
  and sheets
 Ribbed weave-filling yarn is
  thicker than the warp yarn
 Basket weave
 Filling yarns pass over and
  under one or more warp
  yarns
 Successive row shifts to the
  right or left to give a diagonal
  line
 Firmer, heavier and more
  durable than plain weaves
 Used for strong, sturdy work
  clothes
 Yarns that float on the surface to
    give it a luster or shine
   Wither the warp yarn or filling
    yarns pass over four to eight yarns
    at a time
   Creates a smooth surface with lots
    of sheen
   Snag easily
   Used for blouses, eveningwear and
    bed linens
 Pile Weave                      Leno Weave
   Raised surface of loops         The warp yarns cross
    or yarns                         and twist between
   Left uncut for                   filling yarns
    terrycloth, but are cut to      Have good stability
    form corduroy, velvet,           because of the sheer or
    velour                           open fabrics it creates
                                    Used to make open-
                                     weave curtains,
                                     draperies, thermal
                                     blankets, and netting
 Dobby Weave                  Jacquard Weave
   Small geometric designs      Produces elaborate and
    are woven with dobby          detailed designs
    attachment on a loom         Special looms controlled
   Pique fabrics are an          by computers
    example of this weave        Fabrics include:
                                  brocade, damask,
                                  tapestry
                                 Used for table linens,
                                  draperies and
                                  upholstery
 Knitting
   The process of looping yarns together to form a fabric
   Create numerous patterns and textures
      One yarn can create an entire piece of fabric
   Best for stretch
      Allows the fabric to move, and fit with the body
   Resists wrinkles
   A run can form, it can also snag or ravel if a yarn is
    pulled
 Knitting
   Weft Knitting
      Done by hand or flat/circular knitting machines
      Loops are formed as yarn is carried back and forth
       horizontally
      Have two way stretch
      Can cause lengthwise “runs” from broken threads
   Warp Knitting
        Done only by machine
        Loops are formed vertically
        Tighter than weft knitting
        Usually run-resistant
 Jersey Knits                  Purl Knits
   Most common, made             Same on both sides
    with one set of needles       Stretch in both
   Front and back have            directions
    different appearances         Are thicker than jersey
   T-shirts, sports shirts,       knits
    dresses, sweaters, and        Used for sweaters
    pantyhose are made
    from jersey knits
 Rib Knits                      Interlock Knits
   Vertical ribs (columns of      A variation of rib
    stitches) alternate on         Smooth and more stable
    the front and back             Don’t stretch out of
   Used as neck, wrist, and        shape
    bottom bands on                Popular for blouses,
    sweaters and jackets            dresses, and dressy T-
                                    shirts
 Double Knit
   Two yarns and two sets of needles
   Loops are drawn through from both directions
   Heavier, firmer, and sturdier than other knits
   Double knits won’t run or ravel
   Used for a variety of garments
 Tricot Knit                  Raschel Knit
   Very fine,                   An extra yarn can create
   Are stable and lie flat       a textured or patterned
   Don’t run or ravel            design
   Used primarily for           Fabrics range from lacy
    lingerie, underwear,          net to thermal
    loungewear and                underwear to heavy
    uniforms                      blankets
   Can produce fabric           Used with extra spandex
    much faster than              yarns in swimwear or
    weaving                       foundation garments
 Non-woven fabrics
   made by pressing, bonding, or interlocking fibers
    together without using yarns
   Done with mechanical action, chemicals, and/or heat
   They have industrial and medical uses
      Interfacing
   Felt-permanently interlocked, easy to mold, and is used
    to make hats and craft items
 Laces and Nets                Stretch Fabrics
   Knotting, Twisting or         Both woven and knitted
    looping threads or yarns      Use textured yarns or
    together                       yarns that have been
   Special machines make          wrapped around an
    very intricate lace            elastic core
    designs                       Spandex or rubber can
                                   also be used
 Bonded Fabrics                     Laminated Fabrics
    Bonded to other fabrics like       Have a layer of foam between
     vinyl, clear films or               an outer fabric and a backing
     rubberized coatings                 fabric
    Gains more body or a special       Gives additional warmth to
     surface                             outerwear
    Rubber added for water          Quilted Fabrics
     repellency
                                       Consist of two layers of fabric
    Vinyl added is bonded to a         with a batting between them
     woven or knitted base to
                                       Machine stitching in a
     create faux fur or leather
                                        decorative pattern or in rows
 Braiding- process of interlacing three or more yarns
 lengthwise and diagonally to make fabrics
   Usually narrow
   Use as decorative trims and shoelaces
   Often joined together to make rugs
Dyeing Fabrics
 Fiber Dyeing
    Fibers are dyed before they are spun into yarns
    2 ways:
       Solution Dyeing-
          For manufactured fibers
          The dye is added to the think liquid before it is forced through the
           spinneret
       Stock Dyeing
          For natural fibers usually wool
          The dye is added to the loose fibers

 Yarn dyeing
    Done before it is knitted or woven
    First wound onto spools, then placed in a dye bath
    Plaid or striped fabrics usually yarn dyed
    Less expensive than fiber dyeing, more than piece dyeing
 Piece dyeing
   Fabric is dyed after weaving or knitting
   Stored undyed fabric and then dye it a specific color
   Always solid colors
   Least expensive and most common method
 Garment Dyeing
   Fabric is cut and sewn into the finished product
   Thread, buttons, and other trims must be able to accept
    the dye as well
   Then the entire garment or item is dyed
   Allows for fast deliveries to retailers of particular
    popular colors
 Colorfast-
   with stand washing, dry cleaning, perspiration, sunlight
    and rubbing
   Colorfastness depends on chemical makeup of the dye
    and the fiber content of the fabric, and the method of
    dyeing
   Some fabrics are supposed to fade or bleed, in order to
    achieve a certain desired look
 Screen Printing
   Fabric or metal mesh screens are stretched on frames
   Separate screen is prepared for each color in the design
   Design is traced on the screen, all colors/parts of the
    design not be dyed are covered
   Colors are pressed through the screens onto the fabric
    using a squeegee or roller
 Roller Printing
   Contains circular rollers or printing plates, one for each
    part of the design
   Plates are chemically etched with a pattern part for a
    particular color
   Raised section pick up color, fabric passes through the
    press and makes contact with raised portions of each
    roller, the pattern prints
 Rotary Screen Printing
   Combines the advantages of screen printing and roller
    printing
   Faster than screen printing
      3, 500 yards. Per hour
   Made from metal foil, less costly than the copper
    engraved rollers used in roller printing
   One screen for each color
   Dye is forced through a pattern of holes in each screen,
    the cylinders toll over the fabric leaving the design
 Heat-Transfer Printing
   A paper pattern for the design is printed with heat-
      sensitive dyes
     Design appears in reverse on the pattern
     Pattern is placed face down on the fabric and heat is
      applied, the design transfers to the fabric
     Shirts may be stiff
     Common for t-shirt prints
Fabric Finishes
 Treatment to fibers, yarns, or fabrics to make the final
  products look, feel, or perform differently
 Can be applied with heat, pressure, or chemicals
 This terms indicate how long a finish will last:
   Permanent Finish- last for the life of the garment
   Durable Finish- last through several launderings or dry
      cleaning
     Temporary Finish- last only until the fabric is washed or
      dry-cleaned
     Renewable Finish- a temporary finish that can be
      replaced or reapplied
     Proof- there is complete protection
     Resistant or Repellent- gives you only partial protection
Finishes that Affect Performance
 Antibacterial and Antimicrobial
   Suppresses the growth/odor causing bacteria, fungi, and
    mold spores
 Antistatic
   Treatment prevents static electricity
 Crease-Resistant and Wrinkle –Resistant
   Resist wrinkles, but they make fabric weaker and less
    absorbent
 Durable Press and Permanent Press
   Permanently creates the desired shapes, creases, and
    pleats, and resist wrinkles
Finishes that Affect Performance
 Fade-Resistant
   The colors remains true for a longer period of time
 Flame-Resistant and Flame-Retardant
   This means the fabric will cut off the oxygen supply or
    changing the make-up of the fiber causes the flames to
    extinguish
 Mildew-Resistant
   Helps prevent mildew
 Mercerization
   To improve luster, strength, and absorbency
 Moth-Repellent
   Repel moths
Finishes that Affect Performance
 Shrinkage Control
   Preshrunk will not shrink more than 3% unless the label
    states otherwise
 Soil-Release
   Allows for fabrics to be easily wetted to help better
    release soil
 Stain-Resistant
   To repel food, water, and other substance by reducing
    absorbency
 Water-Repellent and Waterproof
   Helps them resist water. Cannot resist heavy rain or
    long exposure to rain.
Finishes that Affect Appearance and
Texture
 Calendering
   Helps produce a smooth and polished surface. Creates
    embossing
 Napping
   Raises the short, loose fibers on the fabric surface to
    make it soft and fuzzy on the surface
 Sizing
   Increases weight, body and luster
 Stone Washing and Acid Wash
   Pumice stones are put into an industrial washer to create
    a softer fabric and a worn, faded look
 Weighting
   To increase the fabric weight and crispness