10E— Morning News • Sunday, October 3, 1999
There may never be a bigger year for men's formal wear
ByWUUamKbMl trimmed with braid and soutache - double-breasted tuxedos .but also What does fbnriaT
embroidery. creative looks from Gucci, Jean Paul.
Dallas Morning News
The hope behind all this formal Gaultier, Jil Sander, Dolce & actually mean?
This fall is probably the first time .wear hoopla is that men will make a Gabbana, Issey Miyake and Hugo / -
in. oh. at least a century that men New Year's resolution to improve Boss. There are also leather cardi-
may have more formal wear options their sartorial style, from the tips of gan-style dinner jackets from Maria Whrtetie
than women do. their hand-tied bows to the heels of Vittoria and custom pieces from tai- The most formal dress, it is worn .
"If any year will be a big year- for their shiny patenf leather oxfords. lor Jack Simpson. • . • only when an invitation specifically
tuxes, this will be it," says Harold Some men may opt to begin the The Neiman's collection even has says "whitetie" (and never before
Hell, owner of the Mr. Tuxedo rental new year wearing what many consid- limited-edition (signed and num- 6 p.m.). Tails or frock coat with
' store. "Everybody that has ever er the only serious formal wear bered) formal military garb such as matching pants, white shirt"with
thought about giving a black-tie option: white bow tie 'and swallow- that worn by Czar Nicholas H and stiff wing collar, starched white
party, this is the time they will do it." tail coat. But such fashion diqtums made by Savile Row tailor Gieves & waistcoat (vest) and white bow tie
In anticipation of such a banner went out in the late 1880s, about the Hawkes. At $7,000 for one of these are called for. A crisp white
season, designers filled their run- same time tobacco tycoon Lorillard hand-made jackets (pants not includ-
ways with .all the formal wear clas- Griswold challenged protocol by ed), it will take a czar's treasury to handkerchief peeks from the top
sics as .well as plenty of attitude, wearing a scarlet dinner jacket to a own one. ' *. . coat pocket. Optional accessories:
from velvet capes and whimsical top "formal" gala at his father's private Where would a man make such a silk top hat, white silk scarf and
hats to black suits with suspenders club in Tuxedo Park, N.Y. In the mid- theatrical fashion statement? Many • white gloves. '
and even old-fashioned spats. 1930s, Edward VHI,. the Duke of men will spend the holidays at pri-
In the Dallas area, stores such as Windsor, who was generally consid- vate functions where customized Black tie
Stanley Korshak, Saks Fifth Avenue/ ered the best-dressed man of his day, looks are often welcome. "A lot of •Not worn before 6 p.m., except.for
'Neiman Marcus, Marvin Brown and . didn't help matters when he adopted people will specify in an invitation late-afternoon weddings. The
J.C.. Penney have stocked the'ir a navy dinner jacket as part of his what would be appropriate dress —r dress: traditional black" dinner
shelves with new and traditional evening splendor. formal, informal, black tie optional, jacket with, if single-breasted,
styles: Nevertheless, this'fall, men's for- or even creative black tie," notes cummerbund or vest (never both),
• Classic single-button peak-lapel mal attire is getting the royal treat- McWilliams. "There are lots of ways White shirt, bow tje (preferably
' tuxedos, ' ment, especially at Neiman Marcus, formal attire can be designated. But .
• Off-white, dupioni silk and plaid where store buyers spent 18 months the invitation is usually the best
black). |n warm weather, a
dinner jackets. , . compiling one of the most compre- place to determine'if a party is cos- lightweight white jacket can sub
; • Edwardian-inspired frock coats. . hensive collections in years. The tume-friendly or not.'1 - for the black jacket. Optional
"• Nehru-collared dinner coats., selection is so wide, says men's fash- When in doubt, most fashion accessories: black homburg, white
' • Velvet and paisley silk smoking ion director Colby McWilliams, that experts say it's a good idea to stick "silk scarf, gray suede gloves.
.jackets. it includes not only white tie and tail with the basics. After all, the classic
• Military-inspired evening suits eoats and traditional single- and American tuxedo — single- or dou- Black tie optional
Instead of a tuxedo, men may wear
The Associated Press file photo
a dark business suit with a white
This fell, men's formal attire Is getting the royal treatment. dress shirt and a tie, usually in a
ble-breasted peak-lapel jacket and galas, was never reallys considered
. solid color such as silver.
pants, in a tropical worsted fabric — an acceptable option" for formal
hasn't changed much since the 1950s, " wear. A wing-collar pleated shirt or Morning Dress " .
when- larger-than-life, movie stars pleated shirt with a regular turn- Usually called for at weddings
such as Cary Grant, Gregory Peck; down pointed collar is preferred,. before noon? Morning coats in
Clark Gable, Frank Sinatra and the ...' For a first-time tuxedb buyer, Rob : black or shades of gray are worn
crown prince of American elegance, Small, the men's clothing buyer at with trousers pinstriped in"
FYed Astaire, showed men how to dp Stanley Korshak, says that a relative- charcoal or plain gray, white shirt,
it right ly tame choice would be silk tie or ascot and gray or black
Although Hollywood is still the Vestimenta's black crepe single- top hat.
barometer by which many measure breasted, peak-lapel tuxedo, $1,395
formal wear, the fashion oddities at Korshak; Dress optional
that cross the red carpet on Oscar But a tuxedo can be purchased for Expect people to appear in
night — black shirts with black neck- less than a fortune. J.C. Penney, for everything from jeans to tuxes. As.
ties, wing-collar shirts with pretied 'instance, will introduce tuxes for the Judith Martin warns party-givers in
leather bows, .frock tuxedos paired first time to about 450 of its .stores, a's "Miss Manners' Guide for the Turn-
Beethov with sneakers, and $}5 T-shirts well as its. catalog, at the end of
under $2,000 Armani jackets. — are September. Under • its . private
not to be taken seriously, and cer- Stafford- label, Pehney's will offer
tainly not emulated, the experts say. th'ree styles priced" at $150: a single-
The band-collar shirt, for exam- breasted one-button, a single-breast-
of-therMillennium," "This is what
you deserve when you refuse to
tell the guests what to wear, and
each of them shows up dressed for
a different party."
ple, popular a few years ago in every- ed three-button and a double-breast-
day wear and at most Hollywood ed.
How and what to wear with your tuxedo
Following are some rules and sug- that are clean, elegant and comfort :
Options •• • .•'•' .' / • ' '
gestions from menswear experts. able." And always well-shined, he. Instead of bow ties, Rubenstein
stresses. Plain black Western boots likes Jong black silk ties. But
Standard black tie . (with no tooling) also work with - Flusser shudders ait the. idea. "You
consists of: tuxes, he says. -' .
Saturday, October 16 A jacket with a satin or grosgrain
peak lapel or shawl collar, and pants
Worn with pleats facing up (to hold
can't wear a regular tie with a tuxe-
do," he says, noting that tuxedo
shirts are worn with studs, which
at 8:00 p.m. with matching stripe down the side.
A simple pleated white shirt with
French cuffs, A bow tie and match-
theater tickets or catch crumbs)
and with a single-breasted jacket.
Purists say they should be black.
would be hidden by a four-in-hand tie
knot. "That would defeat the pur-
The Savannah Symphony performs an all ing vest or cummerbund if the jack- Not everyone'likes them. Says There are times when it's OK to
et is single-breasted. Rubenstein, "They're ridiculous. deviate from strict formal wear
Beethoven program featuring his Shirts .
They make you look like a band-
leader." Match the bow tie.
guidelines, Flusser says. For an art.
gallery opening, he suggests in ..
triumphant Fifth Symphony, the Egmont White. Pleats or plain-front. Wing '.'Style and the'Man" that a vintage
collar or turrvdown pointed collar ; Vests . tux jacket could be worn with blue
Overture and Piano Concerto No. 5, the , . advised. Ruffles are widely scorned. High-cut or .low-out. Tasteful, not jeans. But that's "stylish" rather
Band collars were never considered than "classic" dressing, he says.
"Emperor " Concerto performed by proper and are passe anyway. Colby
garish. Worn with a single-breasted
jacket. Match the bow tie. Designer
McWilliams of Neiman Marcus
Fabio Bidini, pianist Italian sensation, Fabio Bidini. Common mhhUMMi
and author Alan Flusser notes that a
notes that a wing collar may not
always sit properly, especially once
popular new tux accessory is full- Shirts with ill-fitting collars. Bow
back vests, which "allow you to . ties that aren't tied properly. Failure
the shirt has been laundered, take your jacket off and still be to.tuck a white handkerchief into
A Musi Hear Performance! Shoes
Black leather oxfords or black
properly dressed." InStyle's
Rubenstein prefers vests to cum-.
the jacket pocket. A tuxedo that
shows signs of wear.
Order Your Tickets Now! patent leather slipons. Velvet or fab-
ric slippers are a European custom;
some experts approve, some don't.
Shun "shoes with-trick little .
If you're going to own only 6ne tux,
"make it as simple as possible,"
Things to avoid
"A T-shirt or anything else that
casualizes a formal event is always
inappropriate," says fashion director
lassies," advises Hal Rubenstein of Rubenstein suggests; "It should fit
InStyle magazine, who also dislikes Colby McWiliiams. "There are so
you, in a style that looks good on many things, including a plain black
PICNIC IN THE PARK "cute little.patent shoes," believing
that "men should'not wear shoes
.that look like bedroom slippers." He
prefers "simple lace-ups or loafers
you." Most men look best In a
three-button jacket, which gives a
leaner look, he says.
suit, that would be better."
Sunday, October 10 come see what Saturn has
Free Concert! 2000 .SATd&R.N SL
Chelsea Tipton //, Conductor
Enjoy music under the stars
featuring selections from
Mozart's The Marriage of
Figaro Overture, Dvorak's i
Symphony No. 8, Gershwin 's
Porgy and Bess and the William 12:00 • Noon Fundralsing Barbecue
Tell Overture. 2:30 p.m. • Orchestra Open Dress Rehearsal
5:00 p.m. - Debut and Chamber Strings Concert
5:30 p.m. - Civic Orchestra Concert
Presented h\ the \nvnnniih .Vvm/i/wm Orrhrurn and ihr City
5:30 p.m.-7:30 p.m. - Picnic Contest Registration & Judging
i>f fianinnah De/ttirimfnitif Cultural Affain. and Siftnalure
Pit no \ l'i< ni< Ctinir\t prize* uwariMfor.Mosl Creative, 7:30 p.m. - Savannah Symphony Orchestra Free Concert
Season & Single Tickets on sale!
Call: 236-9536 •INCLUDES T A X . T A G . & TITIF. K 1ST M O N T H ' S f>AYWE,,,
Outside Savahn.-ih: 1-800-537-7894
C.ill or visit the Brtx Office M-F 9;mi-5|Jr1i SAVANNAH -
lllunriiu) A 225 Ahfircftrn StriMit «80 ABtRCORfl I •• v/ii ftSrttl- 1 888 568-5713-liitt,//.-.,•..•. • ' . .
•IVCUJOfSUV T A G t T l T l F 1ST MMTMS TAX.'fM M MONTH IfASf JIN 15 FfR MONTH 1 •, v.l M If 5 F
EXCESSMIlcAut CHAnuc .