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CALVIN’S NEW DATE/6 INSPIRATION STRIKES/16 Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • February 7-8, 2004 • $2.00 WWDWEEKEND The New York Collections A Fresh Crop NEW YORK — This is only his second collection for the revived Perry Ellis label, but Patrick Robinson got his formula for the house just right. The essence of Ellis was always freshness and playfulness, and Robinson managed to embody those qualities, with a dash of Fifties retro and lots of girly charm. Here, his little bomber jacket and straight skirt. For more on the shows, see pages 14 and 15. Another Season Arrives And Designers Bemoan Fashion’s Bipolar Blues By Eric Wilson NEW YORK — Oh, cheer up. Fashion is a world of many emotions, but lately it seems to be centered around its extremes — sheer elation or utter depression. Tom Ford is depressed about leaving Gucci Group and Alexander McQueen is depressed he’s being considered for Tom’s job. The fragrance business is always being described as depressed. Even Ally Hilfiger, daughter See Fashion’s, Page38 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA coterie sunday, monday, tuesday, february 29 - march 2, 2004 HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone 212- 9400600 www.hugoboss.com New York Los Angeles Plano San Jose Coral Gables WWDWEEKEND 6 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 CKI Reschedules Show Time, Putting Out Other Designers By Rosemary Feitelberg shows, Y oko Devereaux and Famura. Famura plans to go ahead with its show at Splashlight Studios as NEW YORK — Calvin Klein Inc. set the fashion planned, according to Grace Fung, who is launching calendar in a scramble on Friday when its design- the ready-to-wear collection with Naoki Kitamura. er made the decision to move its runway show “We can’t change the time,” Fung said. “I think from Tuesday evening to Thursday at 4 p.m. — we’ll be fine. We already sent the invitations to without mentioning it to the designer who had al- Paris and other countries. Honestly, I was a little ready planned to show then. disappointed but that’s the world we live in.” Several designers were upset by the company’s Devereaux creative director Andy Salzer said, last-minute decision to reschedule its runway show “Going head-to-head with Calvin Klein is not a good to a time space originally held by James Coviello. position to be in. We’re small enough that if we have In response, Coviello, Daryl Kerrigan, Roland to switch the show, I can probably finagle that.” Mouret and men’s wear designer Y oko Devereaux Coviello has also expressed concern about have changed or are considering a change in their model availability. But according to the Klein time slots. Shows are sometimes the one big spokeswoman, there should be little overlap. “We splurge for firms without the usually have a fairly unique clout behind Calvin Klein, now Francisco casting, aside from a few major owned by Phillips-Van Heusen. Costa girls,” she said. “It’s so inconsiderate, it’s Having spent two weeks beyond belief for them to do casting for the show, Coviello this and not even recognize said DNA, IMG and other mod- someone else is showing at eling agencies were unaware of the same time,” said Coviello, the change until he called. He who moved his show up an said, “As far as the models go, hour, after learning Klein’s we’re not sure to what degree new slot conflicted with his. this will affect us.” Designer’s Fern Mallis, executive direc- While some are thinking inspirations, tor of 7th on Sixth, which pro- big, others are thinking small. page 16. Here, duces Olympus Fashion Week, Imitation of Christ plans to from Ruffian. said, “It’s very disappointing host its smallest show ever at when designers move at the Jeanne Greenberg Rohatyn’s last minute, after we’ve tried to make a coordinated schedule. Salon 94 at 12 East 94th Street. Located in Rohatyn’s Carnegie FASHION And for people to decide to switch, especially when they’re Hill home, the 1,500-square- foot space seats just 45, quite a 14 The New York Collections got under way with trends that ranged from punk to psychedelic-inspired to just plain good-looking. stepping onto a show that has drop compared with the hun- already been scheduled, is un- fair. For smaller designers, dreds that used to pour into Imitation of Christ shows. GENERAL these shows can make or break their careers.” Designer Tara Subkoff said she loved the idea of a salon, a 1 It seems lately that fashion designers are happy one minute and miserable the next, but that’s just the tip of the iceberg in their mental disorders. Calvin Klein designer meeting of the minds among Francisco Costa said on Friday, “Basically, we made the deci- designers, artists and poets. Conceptual artist Paula 16 Birth of a Notion: A diversity of designers talk about the sometimes- unusual, often-amusing roots of their fall collections. sion last night after getting an update on deliveries. We’ve Hayes’ “Forest” exhibition at Salon 94 is the ideal backdrop, 26 Fashion’s next generation: the kids of Donna Karan, Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren are making their mark. had delays because of major she said. storms in Italy.” Calvin Klein will now show at 4 p.m. on “We keep doing these shows that are very large and 40 People with Pencils: Retailers speak out about what they’ll buy and what they’ll wear to the shows this week. Thursday, while Coviello has moved his show to 3 p.m. that almost like a circus. I decided to just have the people who 36 The rough-and-tumble area of Manhattan’s West Side called Hell’s Kitchen has seen quaint boutiques and cafes taking root amid the squalor. day. (Roland Mouret, who was absolutely need to be there,” supposed to show at that time, took Klein’s original time slot Subkoff said. “It’s more about having the people who sup- 28 For a mellow designer like John Varvatos, who’s used to swimming in the smaller men’s wear pond, the larger women’s ocean might seem daunting. of 6 p.m. on Tuesday.) Costa said about 60 percent of the collection has yet to ar- port the collection.” Carlos Miele has moved his show from Tuesday night in 30 Every season boasts its newcomers and this season’s runway rookies range from former circus performers to a chic mogul wife. rive, including numerous core pieces around which the col- 43 When 7th on Sixth organizers took a look through an Olympus lens, they knew it was time for a little help in the form of “Queer Eye” Thom Filicia. lection revolves. “We’ve made the decision, “ It’s so inconsiderate, it’s beyond 32 While these girls may not have the stature of Naomi or Kate just yet, there is a next generation of catwalkers who are in demand this season. now we have to move on. That’s belief for them to do this and not even it,” he said. “Logistically, it’s eas- 42 Beauty experts say it takes at least six months for the ultrahip, and up to a year for the masses, before runway beauty trends reach Jane Q. Public. ier. [Moving to Thursday] gives me a little more time to refine recognize someone else is showing at things, to look at things proper- the same time. EYE ly in a wiser way.” According to a Calvin Klein spokeswoman, the firm noti- ” — James Coviello 10 That’s entertainment: Sex and the stars, celestial that is…The beat goes on…Ted Gibson sets up in the Flatiron District…Time to dine, Per Se. fied 7th on Sixth and the To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is Council of Fashion Designers of America of its in- the tents to Thursday night at Gotham Hall at 7:30 tention to switch slots Thursday night. “We ab- p.m., to try to avoid losing guests to Louis Vuitton’s email@example.com, using the individual's name. solutely do not want to hurt or interfere with any- opening night bash for its Fifth Avenue store. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 one else, so we addressed the schedule immedi- Naomi Campbell, who will walk in his show and FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 187, NO. 26. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional ately,” she said. whose public relations company is handling the issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, March, April, September, October and December; and At the time, the only show confirmed for 4 p.m. event, suggested changing the date, he said. three additional issues in August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 with those organizations was Coviello, who was While Miele is relieved, Coviello is still steamed. West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice- not contacted by anyone within Calvin Klein. “It’s David versus Goliath. The giant against the President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice- In addition to Coviello, Kerrigan planned to show guy with the slingshot,” Coviello said. “Work is President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General her Daryl K collection from 4-6 p.m. at the site of the supposedly a community, but there’s no reflection Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096- former Daryl K store on Bond Street here. The de- of that.” .O. RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. signer recently reclaimed the space she had there a Kal Ruttenstein, senior vice president of fashion .O. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. few years ago. Kerrigan is considering an adjustment direction at Bloomingdale’s, called Coviello Friday FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR .O. DAILY, P Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is with that time, but had not decided at press time. to say he would not be at the show for the first time, required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new “I was thinking he could have asked me. I’m not as planned, Coviello said. “That was a real bum- subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production exactly thrilled about it,” she said. “To be honest, I mer,” he said. correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild thought about calling him, but I doubt he would In the end, it could all be a case of fashion magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully even take my call and I don’t think he would even karma. In the fall of 2002, Coviello was also one of screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive care. He’s probably in his recliner somewhere.” 10 American designers who scheduled their fashion .O. these offers and/or information, please advise us at P Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED On the other hand, Kerrigan said, “I don’t think shows for the last day of the London collections. MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND you can take these things too seriously. I’m just re- Some saw the move as a virtual act of treason TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART ally happy to have my shop back. Whatever hap- against their London counterparts, who after WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE pens, happens.” months of international debate, had relocated their ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. The Fashion Calendar lists two other 4 p.m. shows on the calendar. saks.com © saks fifth avenue 2004 1 800.429.0996 SPECIAL EDITION WELL-EDITED STYLE AND HEADLINE-GRABBING COLLECTIONS MEAN IT’S ALWAYS FASHION WEEK AT SAKS. 8 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 Calendar All listings are current as of press time. Attendees are urged to confirm times and locations. Saturday West 41st Street. 6 West 20th Street. 11 a.m.-3 p.m.: Hanuk, 77 White Street. 4 p.m.: Catherine Malandrino, 776 Sixth Avenue be- 6:30-8:30 p.m.: Salvatore Ferragamo (“Love Affair With Noon: Dimmer/D’VRSI, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West tween 26th and 27th Streets. Shoes” exhibit opening), 655 Fifth Avenue. 38th Street. 5 p.m.: Nicole Miller, Studio Noir, Bryant Park. 7 p.m.: BCBG Max Azria Collection, The Tent, Bryant Noon: Patrik Rzepski, Dahesh Museum, 66 West 38th 5 p.m.: Derek Lam, National Arts Club, 15 Gramercy Park. Street. Park Square. 7 p.m.: Marshall Leigh, Ripley-Grier Studios, 520 Eighth 1 p.m.: Raika D, The Atelier, Bryant Park. 5 p.m.: Lynn Park, Drive-In Studios, 443 West 18th Avenue. 2 p.m.: Atil Kutoglu, Studio Noir, Bryant Park. Street. 7 p.m.: World According To Jess, Show, 135 West 41st 2 p.m.: Cloak, 17 Little West 12th Street. 6 p.m.: Diane von Furstenberg, 389 West 12th Street. Street. 3 p.m.: Gary Graham, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West 38th 7 p.m.: Tuleh, The Promenade, Bryant Park. 7:30 p.m.: As Four, 250 Hudson Street. Street. 8 p.m.: Luca Luca/Luca Orlandi, The Tent, Bryant Park. 8 p.m.: Lloyd Klein, Studio Noir, Bryant Park. 3 p.m.: Rachel Comey, Joe’s Pub, 425 Lafayette Place at 8-11 p.m.: Paco Rabanne (Golden Age Party), Jeffrey, 449 8 p.m.: Geova, The Culture Project, 45 Bleecker Street. Astor. West 14th Street. 9 p.m.: Marc Jacobs, New York State Armor y, 4 p.m.: Rebecca Taylor, The Supper Club, 240 West 47th 9 p.m.: Michael H., Don Hills, 511 Spring Street. 68 Lexington Avenue. Street. 9 p.m.: Christopher Deane, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West 5 p.m.: Matthew Earnest, Princeton Club, 15 West 43rd 38th Street. Tuesday, Feb. 10 Street. 9 p.m.: Mackage, Atelier, Bryant Park. n/a: Bradley Bayou for Halston, 113 West 42nd Street. 5 p.m.: Pierrot, The Atelier, Bryant Park. 9 a.m.: Reem Acra, The Atelier, Bryant Park. 6 p.m.: Y & Kei, The Promenade, Bryant Park. Monday, Feb. 9 9 a.m.-6 p.m.: O’Halloran Co., Horse Trailer, 41st Street 6 p.m.: Cat Swanson, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West 38th 8-11 a.m.: Ellen Tracy, 575 Seventh Avenue. and Sixth Avenue. Street. 8:30 a.m.-6 p.m.: Escada, Escada Boutique, 715 Fifth 9:30 a.m.: Gap (collection preview), 675 Sixth Avenue. 7 p.m.: Sass & Bide, Studio Noir, Bryant Park. Avenue. 10 a.m.: Gustavo Arango, Studio Noir, Bryant Park. 8 p.m.: Mary Ping, 71 West 23rd Street. 9 a.m.: Dana Buchman, 1441 Broadway. 10 a.m.: Luella Bartley, Altman Building, 135 West 18th 9 p.m.: Jeremy Scott, Crobar, 530 West 28th Street. 9 a.m.: Paul Hardy, Studio Noir, Bryant Park. Street. 10 p.m.: Helen Yarmak, Avalon, 20th Street and Sixth 9:30 a.m.: Zenobia (also 12:30 p.m. and 4:30 p.m.), Essex 11 a.m.: Douglas Hannant, The Promenade, Bryant Avenue. House Hotel. Park. 10 a.m.: Monique Lhuillier, The Atelier, Bryant Park. 11 a.m.: Arlequin, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West 38th Sunday, Feb. 8 10 a.m.: Girls Rule/Dollhouse, Dollhouse, 1407 Street. 8:30 a.m.-noon: Georgina Goodman, Soho House, 29-35 Broadway. 11 a.m.: Kate Spade & Jack Spade, 48 West 25th Street. Ninth Avenue between 13th and 14th Streets. 11 a.m.: Carolina Herrera, The Tent, Bryant Park. Noon: Bill Blass, The Tent, Bryant Park. 9 a.m.-9 p.m.: Amanda Wakely, Bryant Park. Noon: Cynthia Steffe, Studio Noir, Bryant Park. 1 p.m.: Chaiken, The Atelier, Bryant Park. 10 a.m.: Tracy Reese, Studio Noir, Bryant Park. Noon: VPL by Victoria Bartlett & Jeffrey Costello, 1 p.m.: Libertine, St Bart’s, 50th Street and Park 11 a.m.: Alice Roi, The Promenade, Bryant Park. Maritime Hotel (ballroom), 366 West 17th Street. Avenue. Noon: Imitation of Christ, The Tent, Bryant Park. 1 p.m.: Oscar de la Renta, The Promenade, Bryant Park. 2 p.m.: Maurice Malone, Studio Noir, Bryant Park. noon-6 p.m.: Rubin Chapelle, 410 West 14th Street. 2 p.m.: Jill Stuart, Astor Hall, New York Public Library. 2 p.m.: Charles Alexander, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West 1 p.m.: Marc Bouwer, The Atelier, Bryant Park. 2 p.m.: PalmerJones, Atelier, Bryant Park. 38th Street. 2 p.m.: Tess Giberson, Splashlight Studios, 535 West 35th 3 p.m.: Betsey Johnson, Irving Plaza, 17 Irving Plaza. 3 p.m.: Marc by Marc Jacobs, New York. State Armory, Street 4 p.m.: DKNY, Eyebeam, 540 West 21st Street. 68 Lexington Avenue. 2 p.m.: Yigal Azrouel, The Altman Building, 135 West 5 p.m.: Badgley Mischka, The Promenade, Bryant Park. 4 p.m.: Sebastian Pons, Gramercy Park Hotel, 2 18th Street. 5 p.m.: Vena Cava, 289 10th Avenue. Lexington Avenue. 3 p.m.: Chanpaul, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West 38th 6 p.m.: Pamella Roland, The Atelier, Bryant Park. 5 p.m.: Paula Hian, The Atelier, Bryant Park. Street. 6 p.m.: Ruffian, Beethoven Hall, 210 East 5th Street. 5 p.m.: Menichetti, 537 West 26th Street. 3 p.m.: Jack Mascharka (women’s and men’s), Show, 135 6:30 p.m.: YM Magazine (teens in fashion), Morocco Loft, Continued on page 34 NEW YORK — Fashion editors and buyers will not be cowed by the weather. Like the postman, neither rain, sleet, hail or snow Fashion Forecast — or all four combined — would ever stop them from teetering into Bryant Park for a show. Yet the weather this time of the year isn’t exactly fashion-friendly, so despite the overwhelming desire to flaunt one’s spring wardrobe, it will be a challenging endeavor. To aid those in doubt, WWD has provided its own fashion advisory. — Anamaria Wilson and Marc Karimzadeh TODAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY AM showers/Wind Mostly sunny/Wind Mostly sunny Mostly cloudy Mostly cloudy Partly cloudy Partly cloudy High: 44 High: 30 High: 40 High: 40 High: 37 High: 33 High: 31 Low: 21 Low: 28 Low: 33 Low: 33 Low: 29 Low: 22 Low: 20 Ease into fashion week Luckily it’s a light day on Clearly Monday is Ladies’ With Narciso Rodriguez Hump day is owned by Today it’s out with the old With the big hitters with that vintage Burberry Sunday and there’s no Day. So while flitting from and Roberto Menichetti one of the reigning and in with the new. A rounding out the week, trench or Chanel’s oft- reason to break out your Carolina to Oscar in the headlining the day, it’s princes and two heir band of young guns takes it’s a chance to forage photographed version with most fabulous pieces. daytime, don full, knee- time to stick with the apparents of American over the schedule: through your closet for tweed trim. While they are But you do have to length skirts, shrunken basics. Calling all pencil sportswear—Michael Francisco Costa’s second your most classic pieces. probably not the warmest attend the Diane von cardigans and a skirts, shrunken Kors and the Proenza collection for Calvin Find an eclectic way to outerwear choice, you just Furstenberg show Lambertson Truex cardigans and stilettos. Schouler boys. Just when Klein, Behnaz Sarafpour, mix Edwardian looks and can’t be swayed into a tonight, which always shopper. It’s one of the The look: sleek, fashion week is Peter Som, Jeffrey Chow, jersey. Cashmere is de wool bouclé coat, so at draws a celebrity-studded sunniest days of the week, structured, tailored and beginning to bug, Esteban Cortazar and Zac rigueur at Ralph, while least layer up with Ce&Ce crowd. After a late lunch so brave the cold and opt body-conscious. Given transport to Kors’ spring Posen. So think outside black opaques are Ts, cashmere crewnecks at Pastis replete with an for a chunky heel with the dull weather, keep a vision of Capri with the box. Mix young perfect at Donna. and loads of pearls that aperitif or two, it’s off to colored sheers. But given pick-me-up in your bag, brights, stripes and well, independents with a Homebodies head back will pack a punch. DVF’s West Village lair. the Marc Jacobs show is either Vosges chocolates capris. If the sun just major bag and a major to your lairs for tea and a Footwear is always a You’ll want to look at night — and one of the or St. John’s Wort. But happens to peak shoe like the Fendi bath with salts. Party conundrum in bad downtown chic, but it’s biggest attractions of the spice up the muted through, slip on smoky “Chef” bag and the YSL girls head to dinner at weather, but if you going to be the coldest week to be sure — bring ensemble with a must- aviators. Modernize the spectator pump. Keep Soho House and finish it completely refuse to don day of the week, so opt an accessory along in your have “Theda” metallic look for fashion’s “It” the adrenaline going by all off at Bungalow 8. galoshes, then at least for a Fendi fur, worked shopper to make your drawstring Vuitton bag, boys with a slouchy V- sending your driver to save your Christian Dior jeans and python ladylike look morph into which will bring you right neck and some long Magnolia Bakery for satin heels for later in the stilettoes. good-time grunge. into evening at the gala pearls, but for Matthew cupcakes. week when the forecast for the new Louis Vuitton Williamson’s 8 p.m. calls for sun. store at 1 East 57th show add a dash of color Street. in the form of a metallic handbag and some ethnic jewelry. *Weather forecasts provided by The Weather Channel. Since forecasts — like show times — are subject to change, tune in to The Weather Channel network or check weather.com for the latest information. 212.485.1755 www.strenesse.com 10 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 Blaine Trump Aerin Lauder Beyoncé Mischa Barton Uma Thurman Jessica Simpson Charlize Theron Cornelia Guest Sarah Jessica Parker Naomi Watts Scarlett Johansson Sarah Jessica Parker is irreplaceable in the front row, but all these ladies should be up there with her. Front and Center eye HERE WE GO WITH ANOTHER SEASON OF THE EXPECTED FRONT- row brouhaha. Who’s coming, who’s not, who promised to come but won’t, who wants to go but can’t get in. It’s a public relations nightmare ® — especially since there’s only a finite number of Row 1 seats. a designer’s relevance and hip quotient. “If the right celebrity comes to your show, it’s an endorsement,” says British designer Matthew Williamson. “A pat on the back.” And he should know, with fans like Britney and Gwyneth. But will Scarlett, Mischa or any others — who, no doubt, are inundated with invites But there’s at least one New Yorker who always has, and certainly — show? Will any of Hollywood’s current favorites — who also include Naomi, Uma now will get, priority seating at the tents — Sarah Jessica Parker, a.k.a. and Charlize — make it to New York this season? With the Oscars coming up at the Carrie Bradshaw. Alas, the fall collections will bid a sweet adieu to the city’s favored end of the month — only two weeks after the American collections end — it doesn’t and most fashion-forward daughter and her three comrades. bode well for those hoping to attract an A-lister or two. Then again, if any of the star- Now the question is: Who can fill their Jimmy Choos? lets wanted to solve their what-to-wear conundrum in person, the New York shows Oscar de la Renta muses, “I think at this particular time, there is no one who could offer the perfect solution. really be a replacement for Sarah Jessica Parker. There won’t be for quite a while.” However, there could be some unexpected surprises to tempt the cameras — He, like Sass & Bide newcomers Heidi Middleton and Sarah-Jane Clarke, foresees Jeremy Scott is gunning for Tammy Faye Baker or Miss Piggy tonight, while the As SJP being a fashion force for quite some time — basically because Sarah, Kim, Four crew extended an invite to Elizabeth Taylor. Kristin and Cynthia have had such a strong run. On the small screen, it’s too early to So it’s left to the designers’ truest, bluest friends, the Ladies Who Lunch (and buy) tell if “O.C.” and “The L Word” can pick up their torch — even if early signs point to- — as in Nina Griscom, Cornelia Guest, the Lauders and the Trainas, to name a few — ward respective stars Mischa Barton and Jennifer Beals making inroads to all the to fill those seats. And no doubt their lovely faces will be seen and captured for gossip “Who’s In” lists. They could cause a front-row stir if they popped up. pages everywhere. At least for now. This is fashion, after all, and a designer has to strike when the But this is a democracy, of course, where all men, celebrities and socialites are iron is hot — or, more like, when the girl is hot. For instance, in seasons past, Britney, created equal, so Yellow Fever designer Jamison Ernest offers, “I think seating Gwen or Beyoncé would cause a stampede of stilettos, while a lass like Jessica should be on a first-come, first-serve basis.” But he’s no fool, and has lined up Heidi Simpson might get merely a passing nod. But five months (and a few cans of Chicken Klum, Gisele, Brooke Shields and Rachel Weisz to cheer him on from the front. of the Sea) later, Simpson is the ambassador from the music world. Of course, you’d Here, WWD’s rundown of which women are hot designer catches this season — still be wise to put Beyoncé in a great seat. which assumes that every designer already knows that if Bill Murray or Johnny Depp The same goes for cover girl ad nauseam Scarlett Johansson, who, with Barton, cur- make an appearance, usher them to the best seat in the house, too. rently vies for the season’s “It” girl crown. Snagging her for the front row could solidify — Nandini D’Souza PHOTOS BY WIREIMAGE.COM Jennifer Beals Kate Bosworth The Olsens Maggie Gyllenhaal Mandy Moore Coming soon to the front row: this group of fashion-loving women. Establish your own civiliztion. And dress for it. THE F O R U M S H O P S AT C A E S A R S F O R L E A S I N G I N F O R M A T I O N C O N T A C T G A R Y L E W I S 3 17 2 6 3 7 9 2 6 12 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 New York Minutes MUSIC MAKERS Beyond the runways, a smattering of musical acts should also provide fashionable entertainment this week, beginning with Cat Power’s — aka Chan Marshall’s — gigs around town. Marshall’s haunting voice and tough chic style provide an antidote to all last season’s polish. Meanwhile, Dopo Yume, one of the city’s sexier boy bands, plays directly to the fashion crowd with their poppy, flirty rock ’n’ roll. This week will also see the release of two stylish albums: Courtney Love’s long-anticipated comeback, “America’s Sweetheart,” and Kylie Minogue’s “Body Language,” her ninth studio album, which is already climbing pop charts in the U.K. Cat Power: Feb. 13 at Northsix, Feb. 15-16 at the Knitting Factory. Northsix, 66 North Sixth Street, Brooklyn. Knitting Factory, 74 Leonard Street. Dopo Yume: Feb. 12 at Mercury Lounge, 217 E. Houston St. — Lia Wong Far left: Dopo Yume on tour. Above: Kylie Minogue's new album and Chan Marshall, right. CLUB KIDS Since it opened in December, Marquee, Noah Tepperberg and eye ® Jason Strauss’ new club in West Chelsea, has been mentioned 14 times in The New York Post. Yet, just over a week ago, The Daily News still managed to mistake it for another venue. “We were confused with the Marriott Marquis,” says a befuddled Tepperberg. “They ran a picture of Dennis Rodman and Lizzie Grubman here with the caption ‘At the Marriott Marquis.’ ” It’s an easy mistake to make, considering the generic The Relaxation Room at Silk Day Spa. choice of name — there’s even a third Marquee on the Bowery that’s home to mostly live JUST RELAX musical acts — but Tepperberg, The scene at Marquee. This week, New York can expect to see more beautiful people than formerly of Suite 16 and usual because hairstylist Ted Gibson, whose clients include Angelina Conscience Point, says it was carefully calculated. “We went through Jolie and Frankie Rayder, just opened a salon in the Flatiron District. about 15 names. We were going to call it Avenue, Linea, so many of USERS GUIDE TO NYC’S MARQUEES He’ll work his magic in a relaxed downtown atmosphere, while still them,” he says. “A name like Marquee is a descriptive name. I mean, Marquee: 289 10th Avenue (between 26th delivering the posh touches typically found in uptown salons. there’s a huge marquee in front of our place. Plus, when you describe a and 27th Streets) Upon arrival, each guest is offered a hot cup of Aveda Relaxing Tea, cool club, the best night Square footage: 6,500 square feet followed by a complimentary hand massage. Then she can choose there is their marquee Opened: December 2003 from an array of fragrant oils to be used during a scalp, neck and night.” And, it’s easy to say. Scene: Democratic free-for-all downstairs, shoulder massage, which accompanies any hair service. MINOGUE COURTESY OF CAPITOL RECORDS; DOPO YUME COURTESY OF THE BAND; CAT POWER BY EVA VERMANDEL; MARQUEE PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER “You know, it’s a one word, VIPs in the upper mezzanine. Before leaving, everyone receives a “finishing touch” — a mini- two syllable name. It just Hot night: Tuesday’s host Danny A corrals in makeup application from one of Gibson’s artists. “All the girls just run rolls off your tongue.” the fashion crowd. to the bathroom and redo their makeup anyway, so why don’t we just Marquee will host 10 Celeb guests: Sean Penn, Uma Thurman, do it for them?” he says. Color by Jason Backe, Gibson’s partner in fashion week events alone, Andre Balazs, Hope Atherton, Patrick business and life, is on the menu, as are facials and brow services, including tonight’s Cheap Swayze. with manicures and pedicures soon to follow. Date party, the Raf Simons Meanwhile, though Silk Day Spa looks like a high-end apothecary show and Patricia Field’s Marquee: 356 Bowery (between Great from the outside, inside awaits a subterranean refuge for weary show- birthday bash, but the space Jones and 4th Streets) goers. After unwinding in the rock garden-style steam room or gauzy — once a garage — has still Square footage: 1,400 square feet meditation room, visitors can experience a variety of body treatments not been put to the test. Opened: February 2003 that range from a basic massage to the shamelessly decadent Eastern Tepperberg and Strauss Scene: Both sexes for nightly burlesque Indulgence treatment — a 90-minute marathon of cleansing, buffing, designed the club so that a performances, men only downstairs at gay massaging and moisturizing — all administered by a doting staff. car could be driven into it bar Slide. Ted Gibson: 184 Fifth Avenue, 2nd floor, 212-633-6333 with the idea of hosting Hot night: Saturday’s High Life/Low Life Silk Day Spa: 47 West 13th Street, 212-255-6457 flashy events. “The party for draq queen Sweetie’s cabaret act. — Jessica B. Matlin companies that are Celeb guests: Marc Jacobs, Boy George, spending big money to Janeane Garofalo. sponsor events are beverage companies and automobile New York Marriott Marquis: 1535 Broadway companies,” Tepperberg (between 45th and 46th Streets) says. “So we thought it’d Square footage: over 100,000 square feet make sense to be able to fit of banquet space. Noah Tepperberg and Jason Strauss a car through the side door.” Opened: 1985 Tepperberg attributes Marquee’s popularity to the personal and Scene: Business travelers and vacationing professional relationships he and Strauss have developed growing up in families mixed with boldface names attending New York and through their event planning company, Strategic Event Bette Midler’s annual “Hulaween” party. Management and Marketing, Inc., which counts Reebok and Tommy Hot night: “Any night the theaters are on, Hilfiger as clients. That, and the fact that the 6,500-square-foot space we’re busy,” says a spokeswoman. can accommodate tons of guests. Celeb guests: Denise Richards, Sting, Though the initial buzz is bound to wear off, Tepperberg has faith P. Diddy at various special events. he can keep attracting the right crowd. “How you keep a place fresh is by changing it constantly,” he explains. Eighty red lanterns hang throughout the club for fashion week, and Tepperberg already has plans to build an outdoor patio in the back by spring. Rearranging furniture, bringing in different seating and moving the DJ booth are also possible ways for him to spice things up. But for now he’s banking on the reputation he hopes to build. “People will want to have their events here if they see that successful events have been held here before,” he says. “You know, being consistent is also a draw.” Ted Gibson's salon. — Emily Holt WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 13 STAR SIGNS Stella Starsky and Quinn Cox, astrologists who go by the moniker “Starsky & Cox” and will be holding court at Barneys today to celebrate the publication of their new book, “Sextrology: The Astrology of Sex and the Sexes” (Harper Collins), come as a pair. Since they met at school in Grenoble, France, and realized their mutual interest in astrology, they’ve been inseparable. Well, sort of. “We’re on-again, off-again, mostly on,” says Starsky on the phone from the West Village apartment she and Cox sort of share. “We live mostly together, but we both need a lot of space. I’m a Capricorn and Quinn’s a Libra and we’re perfectly in keeping with that alignment. We very much share an intellectual spiritual connectedness.” What separates Starsky & Cox from your average street astrologist is their revolutionary belief that there are not just 12 astrological signs, but 24. “We’ve always maintained that men and women of the same sign are actually different signs,” explains Cox. And their book — which was generated from an idea by their friend, Rob Weisbach, who had an affinity for their columns in Teen People — splits each sign into masculine and feminine. And it does it from both straight and gay perspectives to detail not only the psychology of one’s horoscope, but how to use it to reconcile relationships and sexual proclivities. (They also Stella Starsky and Quinn Cox see private clients, many of whom are in the fashion industry.) The analysis can go from the deep to the superficial, but seems to have helped Starsky & Cox work out some kinks, so to speak. In the book, they write that the Capricorn woman likes “tweed, flannel suits” and “spectacles,” which, if you’ll notice, Cox is wearing in the accompanying photo here; while the Libra man appreciates “tall women,” “cleavage” and “alabaster skin.” According to Cox, Starsky is “a real statuesque lady.” And though the book suggests that certain pairings work better than others, “In the spirit of optimism, every combination can work and of course there’s so much more than sun signs,” reminds Starsky. Besides astrology, Starsky has worked as a fashion stylist and Cox as a journalist. The pair also studied acting with Uta Hagen. They’re at work on a live show — “You know, patter and songs” — and are pitching a scripted television series based on their lives. “By all accounts, we’ve lived pretty extraordinary lives. We have friends all over the world, and they always say, ‘You guys seem to be kissed by kismet,’ ” says Starsky. Among their pals from France is one J.K. Rowling, whom they knew pre-Harry Potter. “This is when we were buying each other groceries and rolling cigarettes. She owes us a bag of groceries, I always say.” As for their big Barneys celebration, Cox says he’s “discouraging the paparazzi,” but that he’s “expecting the Patrick McMullans of the world to come — only because they’re friends. Parker Posey’s supposed to come, John Bartlett’s a close friend, though I think he’s hiking this weekend. We’re sort of old school characters,” he muses. “Now that Florent’s open 24 hours again, we now have some place to go at 4 a.m. and that’s very old school. We’re from the day when your neighbors upstairs and down didn’t know what Dolce meant. We’re from that late Eighties, early Nineties, pre-mainstream fashion environment. We shun Starbucks, even though we see Graydon Carter going there every day in our neighborhood.” As Cox continues his musing, Starsky steals the phone back, admonishing him, “Espresso in the afternoon is sometimes not a good thing,” but just in time to offer some astrological advice for Fashion Week. “There’s a sense right now of things spinning out of control, and what we suggest people do is be really relaxed and ready. It’s great to be prepared, yes, but you don’t have to be on your guard,” she suggests. “Yes, you have to look fabulous, yes, get up early and yes, you have to stay out late,” continues Starsky. “But be a little nicer to each other, smile a little bit, loosen up.” Because with all those out-of-towners, there are just so many astrological possibilities. — Marshall Heyman FINE DINING There’s no better time to launch a chichi new restaurant in SEXTROLOGY PHOTOS COURTESY OF HARPER COLLINS; PER SE PHOTO BY ELENA DORFMAN ; AHTILA: COURTESY KLEMENS GASSER & TANJA GRUNERT INC. Manhattan than fashion week, as the arbiters of cool descend upon the city and head to parties at locations often never to be heard from again. But two new bôites seem destined to enter the permanent annals of New York restaurant history. At the Time Warner Center, Laura Cunningham has just opened the exclusive 74-seat Per Se, the New York incarnation of Thomas Keller’s fabled French Laundry in Napa Valley, which has been known to make potential customers pull out all the stops for a reservation. An image from Ahtila’s “The House.” They have wept and screamed and even bribed: With all the diamonds, rare orchids, lavish invitations, ART HAPPENS crystal, furniture and flat-screen TVs she’s Over in West Chelsea at the Marianne received, Cunningham could start an Boesky Gallery, last year’s fashion star, auction house out of the California the Japanese pop artist Takashi restaurant’s storage room. (For the Murakami, serves as curator for “Tokyo record, she divides the spoils with Girls Bravo,” a presentation of work by her staff.) 10 young female artists from Japan. And if the food at Per Se is Through a wide range of mediums, anything like French Laundry’s, including photography, painting and Cunningham will have to contend with a handicrafts, their art celebrates legion of entitled New Yorkers. “One thing “kawaii,” the bright-eyed, pop-fueled I’m not remotely affected by is cutesiness that made Murakami’s work bullying,” she says. “I can either do Dinner at Per Se. for Louis Vuitton so fun. something or I can’t.” Meanwhile, at Klemens Gasser & Tanja Though Jean-Georges Vongerichten has opened a steak house Grunert Inc., Finnish artist Eija-Liisa Ahtila called Rare in the Time Warner Center, he’s also jazzing up Pan- exhibits her impressive sculpture as well as Asian food at Spice Market in the Meatpacking District in the her eerie video, “The House,” and at same building as Soho House. There will be lots of satés, spring Gagosian, Franz Gertsch shows a series of and summer rolls and noodle dishes, with specific accents on painstakingly painted images of Patti cuisine from Thailand, Vietnam and Singapore. “The decor is very Smith, made from photos taken by the Indian,” says Lois Freedman, Jean-George’s business partner. artist himself. “The designer brought back artifacts that are hundreds of years old, recovered from an old earthquake, and reassembled them. “Tokyo Girls Bravo” at Marianne Boesky Wait until you see it.” Gallery, 535 West 22nd Street. And among many sizzling evenings sure to happen there this Eija-Liisa Ahtila: Klemens Gasser and Tanja winter, it’s a sure bet Spice Market will host at least two before it Grunert Inc. 524 West. 19th Street. opens later this week: Marc Jacobs will throw his after party there Franz Gertsch: Gagosian Gallery, 555 West on Monday, and Victoria’s Secret celebrates the publication of its 24th Street. limited-edition book of provocative photography on Wednesday. — L.W. SPICE MARKET: 29-35 Ninth Avenue; PER SE: 10 Columbus Circle 14 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 Punks, Fifties Cuties a As the New York fall collections got under way, designers were creating collections inspired by everything from the heyday Perry Ellis: Patrick Robinson got it exactly right at Perry Ellis. In his second col- lection for the rejuvenated label, he again eschewed the traditional runway, in- Perry Ellis Kenneth Cole stead lining up 25 of the freshest-faced girls imaginable, their cheeks aglow with youth and the delightful work of Dick Page. The presentation provided the per- fect vehicle to flaunt Robinson’s two-pronged message: Here is a wealth of ap- pealing, seemingly eclectic pieces, all wrapped up in a highly focused aura of charm. Clearly, Robinson has sought to distinguish the Ellis presence within the new better department by making it girlier and more prone to eccentricity than vir- tually any of its competitors. For fall, that means a retro, Fifties-centric attitude. “There’s a playfulness, but there’s also a refinement and a new elegance to it,” he said while taking visitors through the presentation. “I want to deliver a lot of york fashion to the area — more than that customer is used to.” To wit, these gems stand out from their typically sportier competition: egg- shaped coats that could go Lucy-Ethel or full-on Marilyn depending upon a girl’s mood, sweaters set with jeweled buttons, skirts cut with debutant froth or Gal Friday discretion, impressive fake furs — coats, stoles, and even a cozy muff or two. The girly factor radiated from virtually every look, as Robinson acces- sorized with skinny rhinestone belts and lots of vintage sparkle — a flower brooch, anyone? — culled from countless eBay meanderings. As for another on- line find, a Perry Ellis printed scarf, Robinson had it recolored and reproduced to use discreetly, in a breezy skirt and as linings for coats and jackets — the per- fect way to express the Ellis legacy on his own terms. Kenneth Cole: “Are you putting us on?” Kenneth Cole certainly hopes so. And if that cheeky tag line seems a bit corny, the fall collection Cole showed on Friday morning was anything but. In it, he favored a kind of sophistication that put smart, practical clothes on the road to sobriety. In recent seasons, Cole has em- braced a core classicism. While, for spring, that was rendered with preppie pro- priety, here the jaunty motif gave way to a more reserved, more serious attitude. The first look out spoke volumes: a navy trenchcoat dressed down with flat brown boots. This led a lineup that often displayed a hint of editorial toughness — bomber and motocross jackets, tight pants tucked into boots, a mostly dark palette. Yet plenty of pieces — hooded coats, thick sweaters, paneled skirts — could easily be worked for greater versatility. This was a decidedly pulled-to- gether collection for Cole, one in which he paid considerable attention to evening. Here, his looks were pretty if not exciting, mostly dark, fluid dresses, sometimes worn under cozy, casual sweaters. Cole is determined to build a serious apparel business, and with its focus on juiced-up classics, he seems on the right track. Yet it is still a work in progress, and for the label to have a serious impact on the runway, he needs to fine-tune his message. Valentino R.E.D.: The name Valentino conjures up images of well-heeled Ladies who Lunch and sexy starlets poured into the most gorgeous of gowns. Well, hold on to your hats, folks, because the designer has served up something new, R.E.D. The collection, in its second season, was presented over dinner at Lot 61, to one of those ultra-cool, mixed crowds. Helen Schifter, Rena Sindi and Anh Duong sipped red cocktails alongside Hope Atherton, Nicky Hilton, the As Four crew and the graffiti collective IRAK, who “tagged” all of the invitations and gift bags. And the clothes? Well they had as much cool and swagger as the real people who modeled them. Oversized studs toughened up bombers in tweed or metallic leather. There were loads of terrific skinny jeans with metal “V” hardware on the back pockets, paired with lacey tops or shimmery second-skin Lurex looks. And for the girl who covets that famous Valentino red, a series of sexy little jer- sey dresses came in the house’s fabled hue. Channeling Norman Norell Remember that line from “Field of Dreams” moniker. Kaner found the clothes “pretty and Habitual: To say that denim is a tough and crowded market is an understatement. that went: “If you build it, they will come?” ladylike,” and thought that the strength was in But with their show on Wednesday night at the SoHo Grand, Habitual designers Well, judging by the crowd at Norman Norell the evening looks. Michael Colovos and Nicole Garrett proved that they’ve staked their rightful New York’s Thursday night show, that’s what Wrapping a collection around such a revered claim to a part of it and are also moving forward. “A lot of people know us as just happened. It was a 10-exit collection from de- name, however, sets the bar sky-high. Hughes jeans,” said Garrett. “They don’t realize there’s another side to Habitual.” signer Patrick Michael Hughes and John B. and Gomes are to be congratulated for their To be fair, there were more than a few pairs of jeans in the show — some as Gomes, president courage and for skinny as leggings and others forgivingly, but stylishly, wide-legged. But since of the company, some very pretty, Colovos and Garrett folded their fashion label Welkin two seasons ago, many of and the Norell adult clothes. the ideas and fabrications that started there have found a way into Habitual’s name acted like a The best in strong looks. Among these were fresh-looking, scoop-necked jersey dresses and magnet, attracting show were two tops layered over turtlenecks in a palette of dusty blues and purples, one tucked some of the faith- elegant coats, into a high-waisted black corduroy pencil skirt. Habitual’s usual approach to ful and many of one in gray cash- denim — shrunken jackets, bombers and minis that steer clear of being overly the hopeful. mere, the other, trendy — is expected. The back pockets, too, were refreshingly free of elaborate Bobby Short, a a black cash- branding, marked only with a tiny “H” on the top right. friend of Hughes, mere over a per- for example, fect little black GenArt: By now, the entire country is aware that overeating has dire conse- brought along pals dress. Evening, quences. So the folks at GenArt decided to serve a light course of three shows Casey Ribicoff and though, was too instead of the elaborate feast they usually offer. Of the three, easily the strongest designer Adolfo. sassy, with a was ChenPascual, designed by Maria Chen Pascual. The designer had shown for Ribicoff, a former see-through lace several seasons in London under her maiden name, Marie Chen, but, after mar- client of the original Norell, said she liked an column and an ill-fitting navy slipdress. The rying recently, changed her label and moved to New York. The punk aesthetic of all-gray coat, turtleneck and slim skirt combo, mermaid dresses and the prominence of the her show was obvious from the start, as the first model stomped down the run- adding, “I knew Mr. Norell and the brilliance of belt gave nods to Norell, but vague ones. The way in a pair of half-laced Doc Martens worn with a black leather look, raw- his work. I was married in a beautiful linen gowns simply didn’t have the fabulous slinky fit edged layers and shredded straps aflying. But Chen, who makes clothes for boys, dress of his.” the designer was known for. Some other looks too, still pulls punk off quite artfully, as was shown in her combinations of Sidney Bennett, whose mother, Lillie Rubin, — such as the jumper and blouse — suggested leather, denim, sequins, lace appliqués, printed silks and T-shirts and even a carried Norell’s clothes in her 57th Street store Claire McCardell instead. pretty, burnt-out fabric. 40 years ago, recalled the designer’s master tai- But Hughes shows promise. He has just put Oliver Christian Herold showed 17 evening looks with a few (emphasis on loring and extraordinary fabrics. Bennett feels himself in a rather difficult spot. Referencing few) winners, such as a fluttery, white chiffon gown with a light splatter of water- that reviving the name was a “stroke of genius.” Norell is not enough; channeling him is too colors on the hem. And the two designers at Ingwa; melero were so busy decid- Joan Kaner, vice president and fashion director tough, and it will take time to find out what ing how to punctuate their label, they forgot to look at a calendar before creat- for Neiman Marcus, was also drawn by the Hughes himself has to offer as a designer. ing their overly-groovy collection that clocked in circa 1972. WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 15 and Pretty Girls y of the sock hop to the glory days of the Sex Pistols, with plenty in between. Fashion Scoops THE LATEST IN TRANSLATION: Could red-hot filmmaker Sofia Coppola be trading preppy sportswear for powdered wigs? According to sources in Paris, the Oscar-nominated director of “Lost in Translation” is plotting to do her next film about Marie Antoinette, the 18th-century French queen famous for her lavish style and legendary excess. Word has it Coppola has optioned Lady Antonia Fraser’s acclaimed biography, “Marie Antoinette: Valentino R.E.D. Habitual ChenPascual The Journey,” which revealed a rich, complex and at GenArt misunderstood character. What’s more, Coppola recently took an exhaustive, private tour of Versailles, gaining access to Marie Antoinette’s private quarters, her recently restored theater and other rarely seen artifacts. HOW TO LOSE INVITES AND ALIENATE PEOPLE: Ernest Schmatolla, the publisher of the fashion news Web site Lookonline.com, apparently doesn’t care anymore that you can catch more flies (and flacks) with honey rather than vinegar. He uncorked a whole bottle of the latter on Thursday, firing off a fax to Paul Wilmot complaining about how he and his site’s editors are being excluded from this week’s Wilmot-produced fashion shows. “Paul Wilmot and Pierre Rougier are the only two agencies we are currently having trouble with getting access to their client’s shows,” he wrote. “Perhaps there is something more in common with the two of them than just blacklisting us. It might make a good story for our e-mail newsletter to 1,300 fashion editors, writers, retailers and designers for us to do after the shows. A good title might be “The Two Worst P.R. Firms” in New York. Everyone agrees about Rougier, but Paul Wilmot, for us at least, is a close second. As a matter of fact, you can bet on that article going out.” Schmatolla lamented to WWD that “getting into the show sometimes has little to do with what your credentials are; the stylist’s boyfriend gets in, but if you’re a real member of the press, you don’t.” While he doesn’t take back his vitriol, he would like to give a shout out to his two favorite firms: KCD and LaForce & Stevens. (Which means he’s set with them for next season.) SHADY CHARACTERS: If you weren’t invited, don’t even think about trying to get into Nesi Apparel’s Shady Ltd. party on Feb. 23 at the Venetian hotel in Las Vegas. Security will be tighter than tight since Eminem is scheduled for a rare performance at the event. According to sources, he will perform some of his new music, which has yet to hit the airwaves. Other members of Shady Records also will perform, and while exactly who those performers would be is a closely guarded secret, rappers 50 Cent and Obie Trice could be among them. THE LOWDOWN: Rapper Rah Digga said she started paying attention to fashion when Cindy Crawford hit the scene. “That’s when I decided I’d either be a model or be in the music business. I thought I was too tomboyish to be a model,” she said before Thursday’s GenArt show at the Waldorf-Astoria. Look for her at Proenza Schouler and Peter Som, before she has to skip town for the NBA All-Star game. Kathy and Rick Hilton were happy to make the trip to GenArt — a short elevator ride from their apartment in the Waldorf Summer Dash Towers. Their daughter, Paris, is steering clear of 7th on Sixth, but her sister, Nicki, will hit the runway for Reika D. and a few others. Nicki Hilton will also do some commentating for E! and While the fashion flock gets is still at work on her accessories line. itself geared up for fall, the good folks at Banana Republic SUPER STYLE: After making a dazzling comeback as a model, and Gap want to bask in the Linda Evangelista is now exploring other avenues in the fashion warmth of the summer sun. In business. During Paris Fashion Week in March, she will unveil a separate presentations, both new collaboration with designer Michel Klein. He is launching a proved that their recent new luxury ready-to-wear line, “Cher Michel Klein,” with decisions to focus on design- Evangelista acting as a stylist and spokesmodel. driven clothes made for fun and colorful fare. NIGHT WATCHMAN: Sleep deprivation isn’t slowing down Esteban Showing poolside at the Cortezar, but he did take a break from last-minute fittings to watch trendy SoHo House, Banana Jessica Miller model his dress in Friday’s Red Dress Collection. Republic channeled a Capri- “I love what I do. It’s fun to work to all hours of the night and bound Jackie O with strapless to not sleep and to not care,” he said. “It’s a privilege.” PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN AND ROBERT MITRA dresses, halters and drawstring skirts in oversized HAUTE CUISINE: Dressing for dinner is about to become a whole florals. And it tempered all lot easier. Chanel and star-studded chef Alain Ducasse are those cheery striped or teaming up to open a restaurant in Chanel’s upcoming paisley swimsuits with a megastore in the Ginza district of Tokyo. The eatery will be bright green trench or hot located on the top floor of the boutique, set to open in pink cardigan. Meanwhile, December. No word yet if hot “Coco” will be among the going with a more intimate beverages on Ducasse’s haute menu. showroom setting, Gap used its design and product WORDS FROM THE PEANUT GALLERY: Most of the front-row set development team to model a confine themselves to polite applause at the end of a show, but string of denim jackets with model Omahyra Mota had a more earnest fan at Friday’s Hong floral trims. Flirty tiered Kong Luxe show. Her five-year-old niece, Tracy, there with mom skirts were combined with an Patty, had a few words of praise during her aunt’s runway Looks from array of soft, sherbet-colored performance, softly calling out “Funny!” and “Ooh!” during the the Gap, tanks, layered one on top of show. Afterwards, the fashionista-in-ringlets pronounced the another — because, let’s face far left, entire experience “fun” and revealed she’d like to be a designer it, at these prices, a girl can’t and Banana one day. Watch out, Oscar. get enough of a good thing. Republic 16 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 Birth of a Not There’s no rhyme or reason to when or how inspiration will strike — and “Rich women who shop too much and chic couples in paparazzi pictures taken at airports, like Kate Moss and Johnny Depp, Natalie Wood and Robert Wagner, Jon Peters and Barbra Streisand, Cher and Greg Allman. The whole mood is definite indulgence, but very eclectic. The one thing you always see at the airport is the eclectic mix of the way people are dressed.” — Michael Kors ▲ “Linear silhouettes that sit naturally on “Twenty years the body to reflect the architectural lines of of urban the Art Nouveau period.” — Alice Roi decadence.” — Donna Karan ▲ Victor Horta-designed lobby of the Hotel Tassel, Brussels. WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 17 ion “For fall, there’s an emphasis on fine tailoring with a romantic edge.” — Ralph Lauren ▲ that’s half the fun. Johnny Depp and Kate Moss, 1994. ▲ “The shipwrecked, Victorian babe got rescued and continued life as she left off, in her wealthy, opulent lifestyle. Recently, she has met hard times. Doing anything to even keep warm, she wears her party dresses and minks at the breakfast table.” — Nicole Miller Sui’s Berard-inspired print from Ascher. “BJ rocks glamour with an edge.” ▲ — Betsey Johnson HOTEL TASSEL: ART NOUVEAU/ABRAMS; DEPP: LAWRENCE SWARTZWALD/CORBIS SYGMA ▲ “Christian Berard — my color palette comes directly from looking at his illustrations. I am, in fact, reproducing two prints that he designed.” — Anna Sui 18 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 Birth of a Notion Juliette Greco, 1957 “Ta ke the Trans Europe Express to Baden-Baden, then sled naked under furs at night in Gsdatt. Have a hearty breakfast in Appenzell. Go back to Paris and enjoy some jazz in Saint Germain des Pres with Juliette Greco and Bernadette Lafont, while sipping wine with Chester Himes and Jacques Tati.” — Pierrot’s Pierre Carrilero ▲“The new Pink Collection will be for the fabulous woman whose lifestyle is defined by opulence and luxury.” — Baby Phat and Pink’s Kimora Lee Simmons RUBINSTEIN: TIME LIFE PICTURES/GETTY IMAGES; GRECO: GJON MILLER/TIME LIFE PICTURES/GETTY IMAGES; SCHIELE: BRIDGEMAN ART LIBRARY/GETTY IMAGES “Helena Rubinstein’s glamorous lifestyle and fabulous art collection, including portraits of ▲ “The mood is soft her painted by the and sexy. New, young leading artists of her time. This led me to proportions but still the concept of pieces very sophisticated.” worthy of a ‘Gilt Frame.’” — Tracy Reese — Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa Helena Rubinstein, 1935 “Central Park in the middle of Manhattan. Poetry in the Inner City. Heavy tweed on bare legs. Contrast.” — Catherine Malandrino ▲ WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 19 “Rachel Feinstein’s floating my “Ruffian is the More from New York ▲ illegitimate child of boat these Elsa Schiaparelli days.” and Yves Saint — Marc Jacobs “Mary Poppins.” — Arlequin Laurent, raised by “An Austro-Turkish aristocrat vacationing in St. Moritz.” — Atil Kutoglu Jean Cocteau.” “This collection is about movement through time and place, the — Ruffian passage of time. It’s inspired by a woman in the course of her day.” — Behnaz Sarafpour “Very decorative elements...and, of course, Morrissey.” — Benjamin Cho “I have been reading the book, ‘The Man Who Killed Rasputin.’ The fall show will have a little bit of a Russian feeling.” — Bill Blass’ Michael Vollbracht Arlequin “There are dark and mysterious qualities to the fabrics and sensual shapes.” — Charles Alexander “The glamour of après-ski.” — Custo Barcelona’s Custo Dalmau “I want a new balance of silhouette, new erogenous zones — mid-thigh, décolletage.” —Daryl Kerrigan “Vienna at the turn of the century. Regal, guilded imperial splendor and Egon Schiele’s “Seated exotic spirit of the gypsies; the Woman With Bent Knee,” modern appeal of Klimt and Schiele, 1917.▼ Bill and the influence of the Ottomans Blass and Istanbul.” — Derek Lam “The hero/heroine of epic science fiction and fantasy illustration books from the Seventies and Eighties.” — Dimmer/D'versi “Chic, rich, swank and VIP only.” — Douglas Hannant “Fall is about discovering the mystery of a woman. She shines with beauty and elegance, but she is mysterious and likes to leave more up to the imagination.” — Esteban Cortazar “I took inspiration from the serenity of the beach, incorporating the tones of sand and color of the ocean.” — Fusha’s Marie Claudinette Jean “Gypsies.” — Gary Graham Derek Lam “Women and men hanging out in the piazzas of Sicily wearing beautiful sweaters over skirts and dresses in luxurious fabrics.” — Generra’s Tony Melillo “Architect Adolf Loos’s austere approach to aesthetic excellence.” — Gustavo Arango “Nature was my inspiration. I was drawn to the magic of the fall foliage of New England and the elegance of the White Birch trees in Aspen.” — Halston’s Bradley Bayou “Asia is blooming — lot’s of spice colors, electric blues, greens and big peonies prints.” — Han Feng “I’m still inspired by the glamour and elegance of the Twenties and Thirties. The collection is the juxtaposition of fluid and structure.” — Jeffrey Chow “Team Spirit.” — Jeremy Scott ▲ Jeffrey “Inspiration Chow came from ▲ Hang Feng European ski resorts like St. Moritz and Gstaad. ▲“The idea of Jean It’s a look, Harlow reappearing in an attitude.” modern-day Manhattan. Old ▲ — Carolina Herrera Hollywood rendered with a rock ’n’ roll ▲ Jeremy edge.” — BCBG’s Max Azria Scott 20 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 X Birth of a Notion Oscar Wilde, 1882. “True English chic, the eccentricity of the Seventies, images of England that inspire me today.” ▲ — Cynthia Steffe ▲ “Not your usual tea party with white gloves and ditsy print dresses. Instead, men’s wear tailoring, pearls in all the wrong places and spiked chamomile. Why do you think they call it ‘high tea?’” — Cynthia Rowley ▲ “A carnival where the glamour of the rootin’ tootin’ ringmaster, Dolly Parton, leads the show.” — Heatherette ▲ “Photographs by Slim Aarons blew me away. SLIM AARONS: HULTON ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES; OSCAR WILDE: N.SARONY/CORBIS All the ladies, past and present, who represent true glamour and elegance.” — Dana Buchman ▲ “Something sexy and spontaneous, like C.Z. Guest, left, and friend, throwing a coat over a shot by Slim Aarons, 1955. nightgown. Think ‘Now ▲ “Layers of colors...layers of Voyager’ meets textures...structured and easy...equipped and ‘Butterfield 8.’” yet ready for life.” — Diane von Furstenberg — Chaiken’s Jeff Mahshie view women’s wear men’s wear accessories february 2004 new york EXHIBITIONS FEBRUARY / MARCH 2004 MUSÉE GALLIÉRA À la mode 1750-2000 MUSÉE DE LA MODE ET DU TEXTILE FASHION SHOWS CULTURAL EVENTS IN PARIS Elsa Schiaparelli JOURNÉES DU PRÊT-À-PORTER DES COUTURIERS ET DES CRÉATEURS BALLETS MAISON EUROPÉENNE DE MODE OPÉRA NATIONAL DE PARIS BASTILLE DE LA PHOTOGRAPHIE 2004/2005 Fall-Winter Collection Les Etoiles de Chine Irving Penn March 2-10 THÉÂTRE DE LA VILLE PALAIS DE TOKYO For information, please contact : Ririe Woodbury dance company Playlist Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers THÉÂTRE DU CHATELET MUSÉE MAILLOL et des Créateurs de Mode Compagnie Fosse Botero Tel. : +33 (0)1 42 66 64 44 www.modeaparis.com OPÉRA CENTRE GEORGES POMPIDOU OPÉRA NATIONAL DE PARIS BASTILLE Sophie Calle Otello by Giuseppe Verdi Joan Miro TRADE SHOWS La Traviata by Giuseppe Verdi MUSÉE DU LUXEMBOURG WORKSHOP Botticelli March 4-8 THÉÂTRE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES Cercle Républicain & Hôtel Régina Semele by Georg Friedrich Haendel L’Occasione fa il ladro by Gioachino For further information, please contact : Tel : +33 (0)1 44 54 10 90 The Office de Tourisme de Paris Rossini www.paris-touristoffice.com SHOW ROOM HORTENSIA DE HUTTEN March 4-8 CLASSICAL CONCERT Espace Richelieu THÉÂTRE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES Tel : +33 (0)1 44 74 60 21 L’enfant et les sortilèges by Maurice FRENCH FASHION IN AMERICA Ravel Major french fashion and textile TRANOÏ companies are also present at american March 4-8 JAZZ/ROCK/POP trade shows Espace Austerlitz ZÉNITH Tel : +33 (0)1 53 01 84 93 Air ATELIER February 28-March 1 ATMOSPHERE D’HIVER OLYMPIA Rihga Royal Hotel, New York March 5-8 Diana Ross Tel : (505) 982 9112 Jardin des Tuileries & Hôtel Saint James Etienne Daho Tel : +33 (0)1 44 94 70 00 LINGERIE AMERICAS BERCY February 29-March 2 PREMIÈRE CLASSE The Offspring 135 West 18th Street, New York March 5-8 Tel : (212) 618 0092 Jardin des Tuileries-Terrasse des Feuillants FASHION COTERIE Tel : +33 (0)1 40 13 74 70 February 29-March 2 The Show Piers 12th Avenue PARIS SUR MODE & 55th Street , New York March 5-8 Tel : (212) 759 8055 Jardin des Tuileries-Terrasse des Feuillants CHILDREN’S CLUB Tel : +33 (0)1 49 09 60 00 March 7-9 The Javits Center, New York Tel : (212) 759 8055 24 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 Birth of a Notion François Boucher’s “Accessible luxury for America with motorcycle chic as the “Pastoral Scene,” 1740. backdrop. H Hilfiger is our first entrance into the dressier side for women who are in dire need of great taste at affordable prices.” “Strength, confidence — Tommy Hilfiger on H Hilfiger ▲ and passion for adventure. Inspired by the female heroes of the past, this is for the Lara Croft of today.” ▲ — Luca Luca’s Luca Orlandi ▲ “Artists from the rococo era, like François Boucher, to more modern artists, like John Currin. It evokes an atmosphere of sparkle and gold.” — Nanette Lepore ▲ “The divine mother is the sacred feminine in all forms — Kali, Durga and “Hitchcock’s vision of relationships between Saraswati.” a man and a woman; Francis Bacon’s twisting of perception, and the mysticism of the — Circle’s Mara Hoffman ▲ Scottish lochs.” — Roland Mouret Cary Grant and Eva Marie Saint in “North by “We were Northwest,” inspired by a lot 1959. of our friends at some wonderful parties this winter. We want to pile on the most glamorous pieces in an “Contrast, offhanded, casual way.” luxury, fine — Badgley Mischka detail, rich ▲ OLGA ORLOVA: THE STATE RUSSIAN MUSEUM/CORBIS; TREE: JACK ROBINSON/CONDE NAST ARCHIVE/CORBIS; CARY GRANT: JOHN SPRINGER color. And having fun.” COLLECTION/CORBIS; SHANGHAI: ELAINE KWONG/SHYA-LA-LA WORKSHOP LTD.; BOUCHER: ALEXANDER BURKATOWSKI/CORBIS — Phi’s Susan Dell ▲ ▲ “Inspired by mythical images of model Penelope Tree, fall is a romantic journey back to nature. Slouchy Seventies Manhattan tailoring meets traditional huntsman.” — Matthew Williamson WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 25 More from New York Milly “Casual luxury and refinement.” — Lela Rose “The allure of ‘Red-Carpet’ glamour. Its sophisti- cated, sexy and slim silhouettes.” — Marc Bouwer “There ain’t no horse that can’t be rode and there ain’t no man that can’t be throwed.” — Matthew Earnest “A night out in New York.” — Michael Soheil “Feeling in the mood to dress up and have fun with glamour.” — Milly “Sophistication reigns supreme, as the 1930s are revisited. Visions of dark, smokey, silver screen sirens fill the room.” — Monique Lhuillier “I still believe in a flirty fullness on an elongated silhouette.” — Oscar de la Renta “We mix sexy silks, raggy tweeds, vintage metal beaded velvets and tatty embroidered jacquards.” — Palmer Jones “A woman who no longer sits idly for lunch, but rather travels the world on a regular basis.” — Pamella Roland “Reckless glamour. Off-center but glamorous heroines inspired by ‘Grey Gardens’ and ‘Suddenly Last Summer.’” — Peter Som “Traditional propriety is subverted by a Baroque opulence. Contrasts are important, in volume, in color, in texture. Extreme luxury is pared down and the everyday is elevated.” — Proenza Schouler “Preservation, polytheism, nativity, spirituality, hallucina- tion, toiled land, heavy clouds.” — Rachel Comey “Portrait of Olga Orlova,” by Valentin “Rich colors originating in nature, jewels, Milky Way, enchanted Serov, 1911. dreams, easy pretty, love being a girl.” — Rebecca Taylor “The look is ‘Thoroughly Modern Millie’ meets Gwen Stefani.” — Reem Acra “The traditionally elegant, almost nostalgic feel of the 1940s contrasted with the blasé attitude of the modern-day rebel.” — Sass & Bide “ ‘The Taylor’ by Giovanni Battista Moroni.” — Sebastion Pons Reem Acra “Jersey goes Techno 20s in flapperesque tops and dresses in a pretty array of lingerie colors.” — T21’s Elie Tahari Shanghai “Less is not more — more is more.” — Tuleh’s Bryan Bradley ▲“The lights, energy and “The ‘Tale of the Seasons,’ a very old Japanese book, whose intriguing illustrations depict tranquil glamour of Shanghai at night.” and mysterious scenes from ancient folklore, particularly an image of four Japanese prints layered and held together with a single piece of fabric.” — Twinkle’s Wenlan — Vivienne Tam “VPL is an expression of the body’s geography, a necessity to dissect and measure its components in order to create the perfect lineage.” — VPL “Cultural and human chemistry, resulting in ▲ “Leo Tolstoy’s ‘Anna Karenina.’ a collection that has eclectic references and influences from my collaborators — artists A deconstructed aristocrat, and gallery owners, architects and hoteliers, reconstructed into something curators, more edgy. Combing, reworking writers and historians each and cutting, we present ready-to- of whom have created one piece with me for wear, fur and Cartier jewelry to the collection.” — Yeohlee Teng reintroduce luxury in the most unexpected way.” — J. Mendel “Contrast and contradiction, like red berries in white snow.” — Yigal Azrouel “Rene Gruau’s illustrations. We fell in love ▲ “Urban chic: a new look for with a woman’s aura underneath a veil.” the new millennium. Refined and — Y&Kei sculptural.” — Zac Posen “Catherine Deneuve, Jean Moreau, Marie- Helene de Rothschild, Josephine Baker, Victoire de Castellane and Audrey Tautou, along with the grandiose decorative art of Louis XV at Versailles.” — Zang Toi ▲ Zang Toi 26 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 The Kids Stay in the Picture THE KIDS ARE HAVING THEIR SAY ON SA. unofficially, working in their parents’ businesses. They’re offering de- If fashion is forever young, several top fashion designers have turned sign advice, expanding the businesses through Web sites and licensing, to a secret weapon in keeping up with the trends — their children. or just keeping their parents hip. Offspring of the likes of Donna Karan, Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Here, what some of the designers — and their kids — have to say Herrera, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren are, either officially or about keeping it all in the family. — Lisa Lockwood DONNA KARAN Gabby prefers to freelance and doesn’t want a full- “Sometimes she likes to be my mother, she’s always Gabby time position at the company. “I never wanted to be worried about me,” says Donna Karan, describing her Karan connected too intensely. I always wanted the freedom to relationship with her 29-year-old daughter, Gabby Karan DeFelice explore other venues,” she says. DeFelice. and As for their individual style differences, Karan Born eight days before Anne Klein died — which Donna explains that Gabby tends to be more conservative than thrust Karan into the spotlight as chief designer at the Karan she is, “but a little bit freer. company Anne Klein — Gabby continues to be her mom’s “She has an effortless way of putting things together. She best friend and biggest supporter. Virtually inseparable, definitely inspires me. I want to wear her clothes when I go Gabby attends every single one of her mother’s fashion away, and she wants to wear mine. Gabby is girlier than I shows, accompanies her on European and Asian am. I’m a little tougher. She’s much finer. She likes to wear shopping trips, and shares Caribbean vacations and yoga printed dresses and is more feminine,” explains Karan. retreats with her. Gabby says she loves wearing her mother’s dressy “She was the influence for DKNY,” says Karan. “She dresses, but sometimes she’ll drive her mother crazy and her friends wanted to wear my clothes, and when she accessorizes them with combat boots or undoubtedly they couldn’t afford them. It was her sneakers. “I’ll wear them with sneaks and she’ll say, generation that I was definitely looking at. She was ‘You’re crazy.’ It’s so tangible and fun, and so easy to play constantly in my closet.” with. It’s not so serious.” “We have inspired each other,” adds Gabby. “I’ve In addition to sharing a love of fashion, they both are into traveled with her to Tibet, Bhutan and Nepal, and we’ve music, whether it’s rock, reggae or Tibetan. “We love going to shopped and explored culture, which is very stimulating concerts. We love going to see Sting perform, and my mom for fashion. I’ve introduced her to a lot of younger people dresses him, or going to a Tibet House concert,” says Gabby. and she’s introduced me to her friends. It’s a really nice While Karan’s line has always represented the sleek, friendship.” sophisticated Manhattanite, the designer remembers the Karan relies on Gabby for her opinions about the time when Gabby was 13 years old and needed a dress, collection, as well as other more private matters. and Karan couldn’t provide it from her collection. “I’m always asking her, ‘What do you think?’ It’s very “She wanted a real girlie dress, with a crinoline and important for me to see what she thinks,” says Karan. “And tulle, and I called Kal Ruttenstein at Bloomingdale’s, and if she doesn’t like something going into the collection, she told him that my daughter wants a prom dress! It was so tells me. She’s very blunt about it. She’s probably my different from what she was seeing [in my line]. You have toughest critic. She’ll say, ‘I think it’s great but it doesn’t to allow them to experience their own thing,” says Karan. look like you.’ She’s very sharp. Sometimes she has a Ironically, when Gabby was growing up in Manhattan, narrow view of who I am. They [kids] don’t like change.” she hated accompanying her mother to flea markets, one And, she’ll even get personal. of Karan’s favorite pastimes. “I used to drag her to the “She told me she doesn’t like my short hair,” admits flea markets, and now she can’t wait,” says Karan. “We Karan. “She said, ‘Mom, men like long hair!’ ” partner a lot together.” While Gabby doesn’t have an official job at Karan’s Now that Gabby has become a mother herself — her firm, whose worldwide global volume at retail is $2 daughter is eight months old — Karan says she’s JAMES DEVANEY/WIREIMAGE billion, including licensees, she spends a lot of her time experiencing a role reversal. “I’ll be out partying with there, hanging out, sometimes styling the DKNY store her, and Gabby will say she has to go home and feed the windows and writing for “Woman to Woman,” Karan’s baby,” says Karan. She’s constantly trying to convince magazine sent to top customers. Gabby to join the firm full-time, but says she understands “I’m very proud and happy for my mom. She’s good at that Gabby is busy “raising my granddaughter.” it. I love to go into the office and watch her work. She’s But what’s the one venture Gabby said she’d love to do so passionate about it,” says Gabby. with her mom one day? Design baby clothes. TOMMY HILFIGER Ally and Tommy Hilfiger with raw edges a long time ago that inspired Tommy Hilfiger relies on his 18-year-old us. She puts different appliqués on her jeans. daughter, Ally, to be his personal trend guru. She customizes a lot of her clothes.” “In the young women’s business, she is Ally will go to vintage stores and check the target customer,” the designer says. out all the nooks and crannies. “She travels “She knows the fits, the trends, the brands and she shops and she was brought up with and the colors. We have a team of very it,” says Hilfiger. Ally’s mother, Susie, is talented designers who are in their mid- to also a designer and owns Best & Co., a late-20s and 30s, and although they’re very children’s shop in Greenwich, Conn. talented and we pick up on the trends, “Susie has great taste,” says Hilfiger being able to pick up the trends from the about his ex-wife. specific target is very valuable.” Hilfiger says Ally also is “right in the Hilfiger says Ally has been giving him groove with music,” and influenced his advice for years. “She’s always given me her decision to sign Beyoncé Knowles as the opinion. Now it’s more relevant.” face of the company’s upcoming fragrance. While Ally isn’t officially employed by the “She was into Britney [Spears] at a very company, which last year generated $1.89 young age,” he adds. billion in wholesale volume, she drops by , Like reality TV Ally also likes reality regularly to offer her viewpoint. This past advertising. She wants Tommy’s ads to be season, she starred in her own reality show very real, not too staged and not phony. , on MTV “Rich Girls,” and in one scene, she In fact, she has appeared in a Tommy QUEEN/WIREIMAGE appears in the Hilfiger showroom critiquing Jeans ad campaign with other famous the line before a roomful of designers and progeny, such as Elizabeth Jagger, executives. Tommy Hilfiger says MTV has Theodora and Alexandra Richards and asked her to do another series. She’s also Lauren Bush. looking into attending art school. But Hilfiger says his daughter Ally was traveling and unavailable to be interviewed for this story. recognizes the parameters of her role. “I think the other designers are open to According to the designer, his daughter wore low-rise jeans before the company really hearing from someone who is the ultimate target,” says Hilfiger, who noted that in capitalized on them, not to mention other current hot items. “She was into this whole real life, Ally prefers to give her opinions directly to him. “She’s very confident in her California look with military-inspired bottoms and cargoes and truck driver hats a long beliefs. She can spot trends in advance. Her mentality is trained for that. She doesn’t time ago. She has a knack for putting things together. She was also cutting her own clothes want to work for the company. She doesn’t want to step on other people’s toes.” WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 27 OSCAR DE LA RENTA million. De la Renta says that the business has It’s a family affair at Oscar. seen sales increases in excess of 20 percent a Nine years ago, de la Renta hired his year over the past five years, and profits have stepdaughter, Eliza Reed Bolen, as vice grown even more than that. “We needed to president of licensing. Then last year Eliza’s bring more people into the business.” husband, Alex Bolen, came on board as chief The designer notes that the company has executive officer. been able to retain its customer base while “My biggest worry is that Eliza is going to simultaneously attracting a younger crowd. His fire me,” quips de la Renta. business at Bergdorf Goodman, for example, has Eliza, who began her career working for an tripled in the last six or seven years. Two years environmental company, says de la Renta had ago, de la Renta was Bergdorf ’s 15th largest been asking her to join the firm for a long time overall vendor (including ready-to-wear, jewelry “but up until 22, my head wasn’t there.” She and accessories) and today it is its seventh had planned to go to law school, but never got largest, says Eliza. One of the company’s the applications out. initiatives is to capture a younger customer with Alex was in the banking world. After he and broader price points on the rtw line. his partner sold their company, de la Renta Alex notes that accessories, home and asked him to pitch in temporarily at the opening freestanding stores are currently top fashion house. He stayed about six months priorities for the firm. The company is now without pay and de la Renta was “finally able looking for retail space in Los Angeles and to convince him” to take a full-time, paying job Miami and will open its first freestanding with the house. store at La Rev in Las Vegas in spring 2005. “I had been informally helping Oscar with So what’s it like working with de la Renta? corporate matters, and when Jeff [Aronsson, For starters, says Alex, he always listens. former ceo] left, he asked me to come. I enjoyed “He’s never dismissive...not that he does it so much, I decided to stay,” says Alex, noting everything we ask, but he’s always interested.” that Marvin Traub once told him there’s no one he adds. like de la Renta who has “a better combination “Everybody is entitled to express his of creative visionary and a business sense.” opinion,” says de la Renta. “I think of myself as One of Alex’s key roles is to help de la a team player. Ultimately, I’m making the Renta strategize about the growth of the decisions. [But] my studio gets upset if the business. In fact, de la Renta struck a deal cleaning man is in the studio, and I’ll ask his with Kellwood Co. this week for a moderate opinion.” sportswear line, O Oscar, as reported. And how do the other employees feel about As for her contribution to the firm, Eliza having two of his family members in the says, “Honestly, I don’t add anything to the business? “The biggest attraction to working collection. With me coming, I brought a new here is it’s a family business. But not young crew of people into the company. When I genetically so,” replies de la Renta. “I spend got here, everyone had been here for a while, most of my day sitting in my studio. I don’t and now there’s a whole team of young people have a desk. I like to work with people. If in public relations, licensing and in the studio.” anyone has a problem, I want that person to Eliza explains that she first had to clean up come to me. It’s a flat organization.” the licensing program, “and a lot of licensees De la Renta couldn’t be happier having got terminated.” She then coordinated the Alex as his ceo, and he believes the former labels, tags and looks. “Things got tighter and banker has a lot to contribute to the business, coordinated,” she says. Currently, the licensing including aesthetically. PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO portfolio has 23 agreements — for everything “Alex has a great eye,” says de la Renta. “In a from nightgowns to bridal to furniture — and way, there’s much aesthetically he can bring into the firm expects to have about 30 by year-end. the business that being in the kind of business he Presently, the Oscar de la Renta collection Alex and Eliza Reed Bolen was in, something was lacking. It’s been super.” business generates wholesale volume of $50 and Oscar de la Renta. “And seeing the numbers increase,” adds million, and sales of licensed products top $650 Alex. “I haven’t lost my eye for that.” CAROLINA HERRERA mom usually win out? Having another Carolina Herrera (Jr.) and her “I think so,” says Herrera. Patricia Lansing youngest daughter, Patricia, on board has helped One of the areas in which Herrera will be and Carolina Herrera the designer expand her business globally. expanding is freestanding retail stores. The “They came because they wanted to. I didn’t company has 22 boutiques under the CH label in force it,” says Carolina Herrera, discussing two of Europe, and is about to open three stores in Las her four daughters. Vegas, Manhasset, N.Y., and Short Hills, N.J. Patricia Lansing is a designer in the ready-to- In Europe, Carolina JEFF VESPA/WIREIMAGE wear division, while Carolina Jr., who lives in Herrera Jr. is the face of Spain and is engaged to former bullfighter and the CH line. She is also now bull ranch owner Miguel Báez, works in the about to launch her own fragrance division and is also the face of CH fragrance, Carolina. Carolina Herrera, the diffusion line that’s “It’s about both of us,” distributed exclusively through freestanding says Herrera, noting that boutiques. (Her eldest two daughters aren’t they both represent the involved in the business.) line. “It’s about the “I didn’t want to push any of the girls to work collection for a mom and a with me. Carolina came five years ago as a daughter. It represents the summer job to do the perfumes,” says Herrera. whole world of CH,” she Her daughter worked with the design team and adds. Baron & Baron, the ad agency here, on the bottle, Does Patricia mind that scent and advertising. Carolina Jr. has a whole Patricia joined last April and works in design ready-made business with and advertising and is currently working on a her nameplate on it? design book with Assouline about her mother. She “I don’t mind, not at all.” majored in art history and English as an Herrera believes that undergraduate at Brown University and after fashion is always evolving college went to work as a fashion editor at Vanity and one’s eye changes. Fair. “We didn’t want to feel like our mother had to “The most important thing have us [in the company],” says Patricia, adding is to design for the time they each wanted to do their own thing for a while. that we’re living in. You Herrera says she never talked about the can’t do a total retro business, which has an estimated retail volume of collection. You can make it $600 million, including licensees, at the dinner look younger with the shoes table, nor did she take work home with her. and the jewelry,” she says. “We talked about other things, but not the Patricia adds that she business,” adds Patricia. “While I was in college, I can go into her mother’s Carolina Herrera Jr. never thought I’d go into the business. I liked it, closet and pick out an outfit PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN but I never thought about it as a career.” and make it look completely different from the Herrera likes Patricia’s taste and what she way her mother would wear it. adds to the design process. “It’s about softness, And that’s not only because she’s nine months modernity. It’s about a fresh eye and fresh ideas. pregnant. Patricia’s due date happens to be the Mixing colors and the details,” she says of her same day as her mother’s fashion show. And what daughter. does Patricia plan to name her baby daughter? But when they disagree on design ideas, does “Carolina.” 28 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 John Varvatos Opportunity Knocks By Eric Wilson wear now, keeping his silhouettes loose and masculine, rather than skinny and androg- ynous. His are clothes for the average guy, one just like Varvatos, who has two kids and FOR A DESIGNER AS CALM AND COLLECTED AS JOHN VARVATOS — A BIG FISH lives uptown. in that littler pond of men’s wear — picking this moment to jump into the ocean of “On one end of the spectrum, I’m very laid-back, but on another, I’m very…well, women’s wear seems about as well calculated as swimming naked with sharks. someone told me yesterday over drinks that I’m driven, but driven is a funny word,” The 49-year-old designer was already a seasoned hand, with experience at Polo Varvatos said. “I’m not looking to conquer anything, but I am passionate. I love what I Ralph Lauren and CK Calvin Klein, before he launched his signature label in 2000 in do and I’ll never put out a collection where I just let a team of people do it and I put my partnership with Nautica Enterprises, and he shot to fame in men’s wear right off the name on it.” bat. With his down-the-middle formula of classic haberdashery spiced up with a minute Approaching his first women’s collection has freed up Varvatos to experiment a bit dose of fashion-forwardness, Varvatos won two consecutive men’s wear awards from the more with fashion than he has in the past. Women are already among his biggest cus- Council of Fashion Designers of America, beginning with his very first collection. He tomers, putting their boyfriends or spouses into snugly port-colored velvet blazers and seemed to be on the fast track for expansion, one that already encompasses four stores cashmere sweaters, and frequently asking Varvatos when he would design for them. across the country and prime real estate in the best department stores. But it was a key point to the designer that whatever he came up with for women would The designer has continued to rack up a series of accolades, as he’s dressed every not be simply a modification of how he designs for men. It should have its own look, he top male celebrity from Tom Cruise to the future Mr. Demi Moore. theorized, yet one that still reflects his signature. Along the way, he’s been pulling a soft tease about trying his hand at “The handwriting is unmistakably John Varvatos,” he said. “But it designing for their wives. But instead of throwing a few women’s doesn’t look like men’s wear at all. There’s been very little influence looks into a collection here and there, or testing them in his stores, as is the norm, Varvatos is launching a full line during his runway show on Wednesday. never “We’re be the going to from the men’s collection, other than all the little details and the types of fabric, which is something that we spend so much time on. I’ve missed the freedom of working on women’s wear. The walls are much The launch comes at the same time that his company’s very future is, closer in men’s.” to put it lightly, in limbo. Last July, Nautica was acquired by VF Corp. for $586 million, a JLo brand, and by Varvatos began conceiving the collection, originally planned to debut only in his signature stores, while sitting in front of his Mercer Street deal in which the mass apparel giant was looking to attain Nautica’s store last summer, watching women walk through SoHo. These women, retail omnipresence in men’s, but not necessarily Varvatos’ designer that I don’t mean creative thinkers “with the freedom to mix it up,” became his inspira- cachet or the expense of running a high-end business. Within weeks, tion, leading Varvatos to call the collection “The Streets of SoHo.” As he the publicly traded companies announced that VF would be looking at offers for the Varvatos brand and later acknowledged that the like her collection, will show both his men’s and women’s collections on the same runway, it is interesting to note that in the end, Varvatos felt his men’s wear was designer himself — along with Harvey Saunders, the former chief more influenced by the women’s design, rather than vice versa. executive of Nautica — is a potential buyer. but what she’s He described the collection as “feminine and sexy, but with mixed VF also has since said it will stop producing Nautica’s women’s elements of rustic and refined, as well as modern and vintage.” apparel, just as Varvatos is getting into the game. During an interview at his Chelsea headquarters, the designer going to wear to Varvatos developed several fabrics and paisley prints for the season, as well as interesting finishes for silk charmeuse and shearling made expressed no concerns that the dealings to separate Varvatos from to look somewhat vintage, but with a contemporary silhouette. He also the Oscars. VF would have an impact on his plans to expand his collection, which, sources estimate, has a wholesale volume in men’s of $30 mil- lion a year. Within a few seasons, Varvatos expects women’s wear will — ” focused on the details, much as he is known for in men’s. There are linings, John Varvatos unusualrickrackantique chain hooks along the necklines and embroi- dery or sewn into a jacket’s lining — all details that will be be even bigger than his men’s wear. invisible to a runway audience. “This is really more about the changing complexion of what we’re “It’s not something obvious,” Varvatos said. “But this gives us our doing here,” Varvatos said. “I think it would work better as an independent company. stamp. I make beautiful, simple things that are not overdesigned. They are very wear- And it’s a pivotal point for me in a designer industry where women’s really drives the able, but have a fashion edge to them, it’s a modern edge with a vintage twist that gives bus. I’m at the point where I want to take this company to the next level.” us our own look, and whether you like it or not, that’s the most important thing. The The launch of Varvatos women’s wear is widely anticipated, with enthusiastic sup- biggest compliment to me is for someone to say that it looks very John Varvatos.” port from retailers like Barneys New York and Saks Fifth Avenue, where Varvatos is the Although he may be somewhat modest in describing his impact, the red carpet top-performing designer vendor on its men’s floor. His success is largely a result of an would tell a different story, where Adrien Brody, Brad Pitt, Bruce Springsteen and aesthetic once described in The Financial Times as being “for men with a low fashion Brendan Fraser go on about Varvatos as much as they do Armani or Zegna. His threshold.” He describes his formula as “interesting but wearable.” Most designers women’s wear, with a strong component for evening, is likely to follow suit. Much of his wouldn’t want to be described in terms quite so dull, but Varvatos is a designer who celebrity following stemmed from the 2002 opening of a signature store in West knows what actually sells — blazers, textured knits and softly constructed suits where Hollywood, which will be refitted to accommodate his women’s wear. (In New York, the fashion is to be found in the details — lessons the Detroit native learned upon his Varvatos is looking for a location to open a women’s-only store, probably in SoHo and arrival in the back rooms of Polo Ralph Lauren in 1983. definitely downtown.) In 1990, Varvatos became head of men’s wear design at Calvin Klein Collection and later “We’re never going to be the JLo brand, and by that I don’t mean like her collection, started the CK brand. He was recruited back to Polo in 1994 as corporate senior vice pres- but what she’s going to wear to the Oscars,” Varvatos said. “There’s a lot of beautiful ident in charge of men’s wear design for all Ralph Lauren brands, and stayed there until women out there who want to look sexy, feminine and new at the same time. We were forming his company with Nautica. In the process, he secured for a contract with several going to do just a small, tight collection for our own stores, and then it just evolved and protections in case Nautica ever changed ownership, ensuring him a payout worth as turned into a monster. It’s definitely a bigger part of what we thought we would be.” much as $50 million, according to financial filings. He also is launching a men’s fragrance Much of the collection has already been edited out of the designer’s show — for both in the next few weeks with Zirh International, followed by a skin care line in about 500 efficiency’s sake and to make a coherent story — but Varvatos said he will maintain an doors in the coming months. Women’s beauty products are not likely to be far behind. equal focus on his men’s designs, which he feels have improved significantly as a result. With the addition of a women’s collection, Varvatos could quickly become a credi- “I’m so comfortable with my handwriting in men’s wear,” he said. “I know where ble lifestyle brand rivaling those of Klein and Lauren. Despite his experience at those I’ve been and what I’m not, what I’m happy with and what I’m most proud of. I’m look- houses, the designer stands in contrast to his former employers largely in that the most ing at women’s as a breath of fresh air. I needed to be more open in men’s, as well. intense thing about Varvatos is his calmness, which is reflected in his clothes. His style There’s no reason to compromise right now. While we have this opportunity in front of is the extreme opposite of someone like Hedi Slimane, another big name in men’s us, we’re going to make it work.” WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 29 John Varvatos PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER 30 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 First In Show Every season boasts its newcomers. Fall’s runway rookies range from former circus performers to a mogul wife. Here, a look at who’s new. MICHAEL H. Sales: She’s a retail darling, selling at Bergdorf Goodman, Bloomingdale’s, Provenance: Michael Houghton, 42, achieved a modicum of fame as Ally Hilfiger and Nordstrom, Ultimo in Chicago and other boutiques across the country. She hopes the Jaime Gleicher’s fashion-loving pal on MTV’s reality show “Rich Girls.” He’s tight show will not only boost domestic sales but garner her international attention. with the Hilfigers, whom he calls his “spiritual family,” and even lent a designing What to expect: Twenty charming looks in a charming setting — The Inn at Irving hand for the first Red Label collection in 1999. Place. Sales: This is his first collection. First frocks: Rose dressed the Bush twins for their dad’s inauguration ceremony in What to expect: Twenty-five men’s and women’s looks inspired by Keith Richards’ 2000. Barbara even interned there in summer 2002. Other dedicated fans include so- louche look, and the possibility of everyone’s favorite Rich Girl, Ally, on the runway. cialite interior designer Celerie Kemble and much of the young New York social set. Bonus track: Houghton’s party band, Michael H. and the Bashers, featuring Andy Hilfiger on bass, will play post-show. PHI Provenance: Phi (pronounced ‘fee’) is the new label from Susan Dell, 40, the wife of RUFFIAN Dell Computer Co. founder Michael Dell, who scrapped her five-year-old eponymous Provenance: Inspired by the Elizabethan ruff, Brian Wolk, 30, started Ruffian, a line label last year. Phi’s creative director is Tim Gardner, who has held top design posi- consisting solely of accessories such as collars and belts in luxe fabrics in 1998. In tions at Calvin Klein and Jil Sander 2001, Wolk partnered with Claude Morais, 35, a Paris-based stylist whom he met in Sales: Not yet, but Dell shares her husband’s marketing savvy as well as his ambition. New York. This is their first season of ready-to-wear. What to expect: With Phi, Dell takes an edgier and more sophisticated direction. Sales: The accessories sell at Barneys and Takashimaya in New York, at Liberty and First frocks, part two: While fellow Texan and first-timer Lela Rose dressed the Bush Harvey Nichols in London and at Bon Marche in Paris, no doubt providing an in for twins for the ceremony, Dell designed their dresses for the Inaugural Ball. the ready-to-wear. What to expect: Thirteen lucky looks ripe for a cocktail party. According to Wolk MILLY they’re “very Yves Saint Laurent meets Elsa Schiaparelli under the tutelage of Jean Provenance: Michelle Smith, 30, launched her girlishly preppy collection in spring Cocteau.” Ooh la la! 2001. The FIT grad interned at Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior before going it alone. MENICHETTI Sales: Milly sells in about 200 stores worldwide, including Bergdorf Goodman, Provenance: Far from newbie status, Roberto Menichetti, 37, has designed for Cerruti most Dimmer/D’Vrsi recently, before which he headed the Jil Shannon Sander design team for five years and then Stokes launched Burberry Prorsum. Sales: This is the launch collection, but WWD reported last week that Menichetti’s business plan includes hitting 100 retail stores world- wide for his first season and, over the next five years, opening 50 freestanding boutiques. Yellow What to expect: Menichetti takes a less-is- Fever more approach to fashion, concentrating on Michael Houghton subtle features such as innovative textiles and the minutiae of tailoring. X-treme designer: He’s an avid windsurfer and Libertine also races in the Paris-Dakar motocross rally. SHANNON STOKES Provenance: Beating out more than 600 appli- Ruffian’s cants, Stokes won Perrier’s Bubbling Under Brian award, a collaboration with Metro TV’s Full Wolk and Frontal Fashion, in 2002. In addition to win- Claude ning $10,000, he also scored a job at furrier Morais. Cassin, where he still works. Perrier signed on to sponsor Stokes this season as well. Sales: This is his first show. What to expect: About 30 looks with an evening slant, including Cassin furs. SASS & BIDE Provenance: Australians Sarah-Jane Clarke, 29, and Heidi Middleton, 31, started their high-end denim line in 2000, branching into a full collection in 2001. Af ter turns in Australia’s Fashion Week and the last two seasons in London, they’re ready to take on Neiman Marcus and Scoop. the Big Apple. What to expect: From 35 to 40 glamorous looks to dress up in. “I got so tired of the Sales: S&B boasts an enviable list of retailers — Barneys, Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth whole jeans-and-Sherpa boots thing,” says Smith. Avenue, Kirna Zabete and Louis Boston, among many others. “Sex” appeal: Smith’s creations turn up frequently on “Sex and the City” girlish prep- What to expect: “It’s a mix between the 1940s and modern-day punk,” says Clarke. ster Charlotte. Fun fact: Clarke and Middleton helped spread the super low-rise denim message Down Under. ARLEQUIN Provenance: Sometimes the truth is stranger than fiction. Arlequin was created by for- DIMMER/D’VRSI mer circus performers May Nogoy, 31, Marcelle Seelig, 24, Alex Lugo, 24, and Stiofan Provenance: Designers Leila Azar-Kia, 28, and Travis Wells, 31, both graduated from O’Curried, 31, who met in San Francisco. They made a foray into fashion designing cos- Parsons in 1998 after steering their career tracks from medicine and law, respectively, tumes for performances. They relocated to Buenos Aires almost two years ago. to fashion. This is their fifth women’s collection and third men’s collection. Sales: No retail sales yet, but Arlequin has created costumes for Britney Spears, Sales: Private clients so far. The designers hope the show will spur retail momentum. Alicia Keys and Courtney Love. What to expect: Twenty tailored, structured looks each for both women and men. What to expect: Thirty-five looks inspired by the quartet’s collection of antique para- sols and lingerie. LIBERTINE Provenance: Cindy Greene, 35, and Johnson Hartig, 33, started their collection of re- YELLOW FEVER worked castoffs in September 2001. Despite residing on different coasts and working Provenance: Brooklyn native Jamison Ernest was recording with his band Yellow in a seemingly saturated medium, Greene and Hartig have managed to build a solid Fever when an injury to his vocal chords sidelined that project. So he started making label and recently won $20,000 from Ecco Domani. T-shirts, later moving on to pants. Sales: Retail jackpot! Maxfield in Los Angeles, Barneys in New York, Joyce in Hong Sales: New York’s Atrium and Bagutta Life. Canadian department store Holt Renfrew Kong, Colette in Paris and Harvey Nichols in London. put in an order for spring. What to expect: Between 50 and 60 looks combined of women’s and men’s that continue What to expect: Bold-faced names from back to front. His show will be styled by Libertine’s slightly twisted, artsy approach to classic trenches, khakis and button-downs. Francesca Versace (daughter of Santo), “directed” by screenwriter/director James Star style: Fans include Emanuel Ungaro designer Giambattista Valli, Brad Pitt and Toback and will feature Lola Schnabel’s artwork, curated by Vito Schnabel. Expect some Mick Jagger. more bold-faced names (Gisele, Heidi Klum and Rachel Weisz) in the front row, too. Diddy knows best: Ernest is thinking big. “I’m going to try and follow the route that LELA ROSE Puffy did,” he says. His first move toward synergy takes the form of mini CDs attached Provenance: Texas native Lela Rose has been quietly building a solid business with to the tags of the pieces he produced for Holt Renfrew. her colorful, delicate dress-based collections since 1996. — Meenal Mistry MORE COMFORT MORE PERFORMANCE MORE NATURAL EXPERIENCE MORE . EXPERIENCE TENCEL.® TENCEL® is the registered trademark of Tencel Ltd. for lyocell. TENCEL Inc., 111 West 40 Street, New York, NY 10018 T: (212) 944 7400 F: (212) 944 7406 www.tencel.com 32 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 Who’s That Girl? NEW YORK — It’s not all about the designers. What would the collections be without the models? Here’s some of the newer names in heavy rotation this fall. By David Yassky Gemma Ward/IMG Anne Marie/New York Model Management Stats: Age 16; 5’10; blonde hair; blue eyes; first New York Stats: Age 18; 5’8 1/2; dark blonde hair; green eyes; first New runway season; Prada and Miu Miu runway exclusive last York runway season; Prada and Miu Miu runway exclusive last season in Milan Milan season Hometown: Perth, Australia Hometown: Bergen, Netherlands Name dropping: Prada spring 2004 campaign; Italian Vogue Name dropping: French Vogue with Craig McDean; Harper’s with Steven Meisel; Vogue with Annie Leibovitz; British Vogue Bazaar with Patrick Demarchelier and Patrick Shaw; British with Nick Knight; W with Paolo Roversi; Harper’s Bazaar with Vogue with Paolo Roversi; Teen Vogue with Thomas Schenk and Patrick Demarchelier Raymond Meier Runway schedule: Confirmed for Carolina Herrera, John Runway schedule: Walked Perry Ellis; confirmed for Marc by Varvatos, Zac Posen, Luella Bartley, Oscar de la Renta, Jill Marc Jacobs, DKNY, Milly and Nanette Lepore Stuart and Behnaz Sarafpour Secret weapon: Couldn’t be sweeter. Secret weapon: The girl’s got class and “the sophistication of Lady Di,” according to agent Phil McGowan. Heather Marks/Supreme Gerren Taylor/New York Model Management Stats: Age 16; 5’10; light brown hair; blue eyes; second New Stats: Age 13; 5’11; dark brown hair; brown eyes; second New York runway season; walked Vuitton, Givenchy, Chanel, and York runway season D&G last Paris and Milan runway seasons Hometown: Santa Monica, Calif. Hometown: Calgary, Canada Name dropping: Spring 2004 Marc by Marc Jacobs campaign Name dropping: American Vogue with Raymond Meier; Italian with Juergen Teller; Gap TV ad with Peter Lindbergh; Tommy Vogue with Steven Meisel; W with Craig McDean; Flair with Jeans spring 2004 campaign; W with Bruce Weber; Teen Vogue Philippe Cometti with Carter Smith and Thomas Schenk Runway schedule: Confirmed for Zac Posen, Diane von Runway schedule: Confirmed for Tracy Reese, Peter Som, Furstenberg, Marc Jacobs, BCBG and Anna Sui; on hold for Twinkle by Wenlan, Catherine Malandrino, Atil Kutoglu, Calvin Klein, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Jill Stuart, Imitation of Gustavo Arango, Generra, Milly and Hong Kong Luxe Show Christ, Proenza Schouler and Mathew Williamson Secret weapon: She’s got a strut to rival Gisele’s. Secret weapon: She’s just got it, and the personality to boot. Dasha Tchernova/Marilyn Agency Cameron Russell/Ford Models Stats: Age 19; 5’9 1/2; brown hair; blue-green eyes; first Stats: Age 16; 5’9; dark blonde hair; brown eyes; second New runway season York runway season Hometown: Siberia, Russia Hometown: Boston Name dropping: Calvin Klein spring 2004 campaign with Mikael Name dropping: Givenchy Spring Colors 2004 makeup Jansson; Valentino Red campaign; Vogue with Mario Testino; campaign with Richard Burbridge; The Face with Greg Lotus; British Vogue with Carter Smith; French Vogue with Terry Teen Vogue with Raymond Meier; Japanese Vogue with Alasdair Richardson; Russian Vogue with Alexei Hay Mclean Runway schedule: Confirmed for Badgley Mischka, BCBG, Jill Runway schedule: On hold for Calvin Klein, Marc by Marc Stuart, Rebecca Taylor, Lela Rose, Yigal Azrouel, Y&Kei, Derek Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, Proenza Schouler and Luella Bartley Lam Secret weapon: That face! PHOTO BY JIN PARK Secret weapon: Long locks and a captivating gaze. Anna J/Next Model Management Sarka Littmannova/Trump Model Management Stats: Age 16; 5’10; blonde hair; blue eyes; second New York Stats: Age 15; 5’10; blonde hair; blue eyes; first New York runway season runway season; walked Emporio and Giorgio Armani last Milan Hometown: Warsaw, Poland runway season Name dropping: Moschino Cheap & Chic spring 2004 Hometown: Prague, Czech Republic campaign; Italian and British Vogue with Paolo Roversi; French Name dropping: Spring 2004 European Emporio Armani Vogue with David Sims; Flair with Patrick Demarchelier; ID campaign with Richard Bush Runway schedule: On hold for Ralph Lauren, Marc by Marc Runway schedule: Confirmed for Marc Jacobs, DKNY, Zac Jacobs, Calvin Klein, DKNY, Diane von Furstenberg, BCBG, Posen, BCBG, Jill Stuart, Diane von Furstenberg, Y&Kei; on Vivienne Tam; early Milan option for Jil Sander hold for Calvin Klein, Richard Tyler and Esteban Cortazar Secret weapon: Blonde and so beautiful! Secret weapon: She’s “all about sass,” according to her agency. Diana Sillatos/Major Model Management Trilby Doone/IMG Stats: Age 16; 5’10; light brown hair; blue eyes; first New York Stats: age 19; 6’; light brown; blue eyes; first runway season runway season; did Jil Sander exclusive last Milan runway Hometown: New York season Name dropping: She just signed three weeks ago and doesn’t Hometown: Tallinn, Estonia even have a card, but is already lined up for the spring 2004 Name dropping: Jil Sander spring 2004 special catalogue with Giorgio Armani Fragrance campaign with Mikael Janssen. Giampaolo Sgura; Teen Vogue with Frederic Helwig; Kult Runway schedule: Confirmed for Narciso Rodriguez and Tess Magazine with Christina Taranto; D Magazine with Lorenzo Giberson Bringheli Secret weapon: Gams galore! Runway schedule: Walked Perry Ellis; confirmed for Vena Cava, Lynn Park and Mary Ping; on hold for Zac Posen, Richard Tyler, Jill Stuart and Monique Lhuillier Secret weapon: A big bundle of energy. © 2004, www.weatherproofgarment.com 212.695.7716 WEATHERPROOF ® GARMENT COMPANY ” WARMTH IN THE CITY ” 34 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 Continued from page 8 5 p.m.: Shannon Stokes, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West Calendar 38th Street. 10 a.m.: Bahar Korcan, Studio Noir, Bryant Park. 4 p.m.: Benjamin Cho, Maritime Hotel. 5 p.m: Baby Phat by Kimora Lee Simmons, Baby Phat, 38th Street. 11 a.m.: Michael Kors, The Tent, Bryant Park. 1356 Broadway at 36th Street. 6 p.m.: Roland Mouret, 776 Sixth Avenue between 26th Noon: John Varvatos, The Promenade, Bryant Park. 5 p.m.: H. Fredriksson, 343 Canal Street. and 27th Streets. Noon: Ya-Ya, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West 38th Street. 6 p.m.: Custo Barcelona, The Promenade, Bryant Park. 7 p.m.: Nanette Lepore, Studio Noir, Bryant Park. 1 p.m.: Vivienne Tam, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 60th 7 p.m.: Anna Sui, The Tent, Bryant Park. 7 p.m.: Generra, Drive In Studio, 443 West 18th Street. Street and Columbus Circle. 8 p.m.: Matthew Williamson, Studio Noir, Bryant Park. 7 p.m.: Holly Kristen, Gotham Hall, 985 Sixth Avenue. 1 p.m.: J. Mendel, The Atelier, Bryant Park. 8-11 p.m.: Miho-Miho/Miho Nikaido, Siberia, 356 West 8 p.m.: Narciso Rodriguez, The Tent, Bryant Park. 2 p.m.: Proenza Schouler, The Studio, Bryant Park. 40th Street. 8-9 p.m.: Louis Vuitton (Fifth Avenue global store-open- 3 p.m.: Yeohlee, Chemist Club at the Dyalan Hotel, 52 9 p.m.: Jennifer Nicholson, The Atelier, Bryant Park. ing party), 1 East 57th Street. East 41st Street 8-11 p.m.: Marc Ecko, 22 West 19th Street. 3-7 p.m.: Antilika, 23 Suite Studio, Greenwich Street., Thursday, Feb. 12 9 p.m.: nom d., Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West 38th Street. Suite 3A. 8-10 a.m.: Gevril (accessories), Most Favorite Dessert, 4 p.m.: Lela Rose, Inn at Irving Place, 56 Irving Place at 120 West 45th Street. Wednesday, Feb. 11 17th Street. 9 a.m.: Jeffrey Chow, The Atelier, Bryant Park. 9 a.m.: Vera Wang, The Atelier, Bryant Park. 4 p.m.: Michael Soheil, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West 38th 10 a.m. Esteban Cortazar, Studio Noir, Bryant Park. 10 a.m.: David Rodriguez, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West Street. 11 a.m.: Chado Ralph Rucci, The Promenade, Bryant Park. Noon: Carmen Marc Valvo, The Tent, Bryant Park. Noon-6 p.m.: Kaufman Franco, Nippon Gallery, 145 West 57th Street. 1 p.m.: Peter Som, The Atelier, Bryant Park. 2 p.m.: Behnaz Sarafpour, Studio Noir, Bryant Park. 3 p.m.: James Coviello, The Atelier, Bryant Park. 3 p.m.: Multi by Bree, Bryant Park Hotel, 40 West 40th Street. 3-6 p.m.: Daryl K, Daryl K Store, 21 Bond Street. 4 p.m.: Calvin Klein, Milk Studios, 450 West 15th Street. 4 p.m.: Famura, Splashlight Studios, 529-535 West 35th Street. 5 p.m.: Cynthia Rowley, The Promenade, Bryant Park. 6 p.m.: Zac Posen, The Tent, Bryant Park. 6:30-8:30 p.m.: Korean Preview in New York, Metropolitan Pavilion, 125 West 18th Street. 7 p.m.: Fusa Designs, Studio Noir, Bryant Park. 7 p.m.: United Bamboo, Scandanavian House, 58 Park Avenue between 37th and 38th Streets. 7 p.m.-9 p.m.: T’frisson NY, 77 Greene Street at Broome Street. 7-9 p.m.: Joanna Mastroianni, 230 West 38th Street. 7:30 p.m.: Carlos Miele, Gotham Hall, 985 Sixth Avenue 8 p.m.: Twinkle by Wenlan, The Atelier, Bryant Park. 9 p.m.: Heatherette, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West 38th Street. 9 p.m.-midnight: Wendy Mullin, Star Foods, 69 East 1st Street. 10 p.m.: Sydney & Sara Cant, Avalon, 47 West 20th Street. 11 p.m.: Indashio & Joelle Jean Fontaine, Avalon, 47 West 20th Street. Friday, Feb. 13 9 a.m.: Ralph Lauren (also at 10 a.m. and 11 a.m.), DIA Annex, 545 West 22nd Street 10 a.m. Joe Boxer, The Tent, Bryant Park. Noon: Zang Toi, Studio Noir, Bryant Park. 1 p.m.: Milly, The Promenade, Bryant Park. 2 p.m.: Richard Tyler Couture, The Atelier, Bryant Park. 2 p.m.: PHI, 76 Ninth Avenue. 3 p.m.: Donna Karan New York, Eyebeam, 540 West 21st Street. 5 p.m.: Atelier Cour voisier, Soho House, 29 Ninth Avenue. 5 p.m.: Jackie Rogers, Elizabeth Dee Gallery, 545 West 20th Street. 6 p.m.: Elisa Jimenez, Spirit, 530 West 27th Street. 7 p.m.: Nicole Romano, Capitale, 130 Bowery. 8 p.m.: Yellow Fever, 250 Hudson Street. 8 p.m.: Circle by Mara Hoffman, Show, 135 West 41st Street. WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 35 WWD By the Numbers Odds that the journalist’s shoes you just stepped on photographer takes of one model’s walk down the ®The retailers’ daily newspaper belong to someone from an edition of Vogue: 1 in 17. catwalk: 100+ Published by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. 7 W. 34th St., New York, N.Y. 10001 Number of Business Week staff registered to attend: Number of photographer “survival kits” distributed EDWARD NARDOZA, VP Editor in Chief , Number of New York City daily papers, including 1 (“special assistant to the editor-in-chief” Christine by host sponsor Olympus for Fashion Week: 600 , PETE BORN, VP Associate Publisher , BRIDGET FOLEY, VP Executive Editor WWD, with on-site staff covering the shows: 7 (also Summerson. Have fun, honey.) the Times, Post, Daily News, Sun, Newsday and Item photographers most often bring (besides their JAMES FALLON, Editor DIANNE M. POGODA, Managing Editor newbie amNew York.) Number of editors from eBay registered to attend: 1 cameras): a stool. LISA LOCKWOOD, News Director (style director Constance White.) DAVID MOIN, Senior Editor, Retail ARTHUR FRIEDMAN, Senior Editor, Markets Number of student newspapers covering the shows: Number of Krispy Kreme doughnuts expected to be ARTHUR ZACZKIEWICZ, Senior Editor, Financial 1 (the Indiana University Daily Student) Number of front-row seats guaranteed to be up for fed to photographers this week: 2,000 LORNA KOSKI, Associate Editor GABE DOPPELT, Entertainment Editor grabs: 1 (Former Fashion Wire Daily editor in chief MILES SOCHA, Bureau Chief, Paris SAMANTHA CONTI, Bureau Chief, London Number of Daily Student staff covering the shows: 3 Godfrey Deeny up and moved to Europe months ago, Pounds of chocolate hearts available at Redken’s ALESSANDRA ILARI, Bureau Chief, Milan but he still had a seat saved at Kenneth Cole’s show booth if the doughnuts aren’t enough: 75 ROSE APODACA JONES, Bureau Chief, Los Angeles BOBBI QUEEN, Associate Fashion Editor Number of New York Daily News staff covering the Friday. But you may have to fight former Bergdorf JENNY B. FINE, Associate Editor shows: 3 Goodman’s fashion director James Aguiar for the seat; Number of full-size Redken samples being given VALERIE SECKLER, Marketing Editor, Statistics ERIC WILSON, Associate Sportswear Editor, Designer it’s said he’s covering the shows for the Web site.) away at the same booth: 30,000 SCOTT MALONE, Associate Sportswear Editor, Denim, Textiles AGNES CAMMOCK, Senior Market Editor Number of domestic Vogue editors and photographers JESSICA KERWIN, Senior Editor, Eye registered to attend: 37 Number of additional foreign photographers Contents of the open bar stocked by the airline Song: SHARON EDELSON, Senior Editor, Research JULIE NAUGHTON, Prestige Market Beauty Editor Number of editors and photographers from 10 expected to attend: 600+ 48 bottles of Finlandia Lime, 48 bottles of Southern LAURA KLEPACKI, Mass Market Beauty Editor international editions of Vogue registered to attend: 37 Number of digital images a Getty Images Comfort, and 12 gallons of pineapple juice. NANDINI D’SOUZA, Fashion Features Editor EDMUND J. LEE, Fashion Features Editor MARSHALL HEYMAN, Eye Editor LIBBY ESTELL, Associate Sections Editor JENNIFER HIRSHLAG, Associate Sections Editor ANAMARIA WILSON, Associate Retail Editor ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT, Senior Accessories Editor MEENAL MISTRY, Fashion News Editor ETTA FROIO, Senior Executive Editor JOHN B. FAIRCHILD, Editor at Large MARKET EDITORS Accessories: Marc Karimzadeh, Emily Holt (News), and Julia Topolski (Fashion); Beauty: Matthew W. Evans, Andrea M.G. Nagel, Kristin Finn; Furs: Bobbi Queen; Innerwear/Bodywear: Karyn Monget; Legwear: Marc Karimzadeh; Activewear: Melanie Kletter; Ready-to-Wear and Sportswear News: Rosemary Feitelberg, Julee Greenberg, Evan Clark; Ready-to-Wear and Sportswear Fashion: Brooke Magnaghi, Kim Friday, Antonia Sardone; Textiles: Daniela Gilbert (Fashion); Media/Advertising: Jacob Bernstein, Greg Lindsay Worth getting into CORRESPONDENTS Atlanta: Georgia Lee (Bureau Chief); Dallas: Holly Haber (Bureau Chief), Rusty Williamson; Milan: Luisa Zargani, Amanda Kaiser, Courtney Colavita; Valeria Ghio (Editorial Supima, the world’s most luxurious cotton, is Manager); Los Angeles: Kristin Young, Nola Sarkisian-Miller, Jeannie Chen (Fashion), Marcy Medina (Associate found only in leading brands of apparel and Entertainment Editor); New York: William Cotto; Dan Burrows, Jennifer Weitzman, Ross Tucker, Vicki M. Young (Financial home fashions. 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DALLAS 75207: 2730 Stemmons Fwy., Suite 211, (214) 630-5461. LONDON WC2: 20 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AU, (44207) 240-0420. LOS ANGELES 90048: 6300 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 720 (323) 951-1800. MILAN 20121: 2 Piazza Cavour, (3902) 760-06283. PARIS 75008: 9 Rue Royale, (331) 4- 451-1300. WASHINGTON 20045: 529 14th St. N.W., Suite 954 (202) 662-8827. 36 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO Lyd carries a selection of Stone Kelly contemporary lines from Los Events-Florals on Angeles, London and New York. Ninth Avenue Walking on the Wild West Side LIKE A TREE SPROUTING IN AN And yet, quaint boutiques and affordable housing and stores. or getting priced out of other for Dance at 450 West 37th Street. asphalt parking lot, Delphinium cafes similar to those found in Because CHDC has a vested neighborhoods,” said RuthAnne “You wouldn’t have thought Home has taken root on a scruffy the West Village are popping up interest in improving the area, it Visnauskas, director of housing this could happen a few years stretch of Ninth Avenue near 46th between 30th and 59th Streets picks tenants based on what they development for CHDC. ago,” said Howard Aaron, a bro- Street here. The neighborhood isn’t west of Eighth Avenue. Clinton can bring to the neighborhood Stone Kelly-Events Florals at ker at Northwest Atlantic Real known for embroidered bath tow- Housing Development Co., a not- rather than how much they’re 736 11th Avenue looks like it Estate Services, who specializes els or heart-shaped throw pillows for-profit agency that owns hun- willing to pay. The agency typi- belongs on Perry Street in the in emerging neighborhoods. like those displayed in the store. It’s dreds of apartments and thou- cally gets between $25 and $45 a West Village. The showroom and “The area is safe and centrally a rough-and-tumble urban land- sands of feet of retail space square foot for retail space, flower shop, which opened in located. The rents are low and scape of car dealers, horse stables, along Ninth, 10th and 11th about $5 below market value. April, provides event planning there’s parking.” taxi garages and the Port Authority Avenues, is responsible for “We’ve had good luck in rent- and floral arrangements. Commercial businesses have Bus Terminal. Not for nothing is much of the evolution. CHDC ing our stores to upscale tenants “This is still one of the areas come for the same reasons. the area called Hell’s Kitchen. renovates the buildings to create who are looking for larger spaces where you can get a decent deal for Kenneth Cole’s 126,000-square- the amount of space you’re looking foot headquarters is at 603 West for,” said Marco Olmi, an owner. 50th Street and Prada’s 119,000- The proprietors of Future square-foot U.S. headquarters is Legend, at 796 Ninth Avenue, housed in a former piano factory said they opened the shop last at 609 West 51st Street. fall because the neighborhood Graphic designers and archi- lacked a CD store. Their place tects live and work in converted would be right at home on St. warehouses and manufacturing Mark’s Place or Bleecker Street. buildings and luxury apartments Lyd, a clothing boutique at with expensive price tags are 405 West 44th Street, fills anoth- under construction. Despite the er niche, selling contemporary changes, CHDC hasn’t gotten too Pantone lines from Los Angeles, London and New York. It’s owner, Mia much interest from national ten- ants, according to Visnauskas. comes out Gonzalez, has a unique perspec- Further downtown, Bleecker tive on Hell’s Kitchen. Street is entering another phase of the closet “I grew up in the neighbor- in its development. Not too long with a new hood,” she said. “What I really like about it is that it still feels ago the street had been populat- ed by they types of boutiques arrangement. like a neighborhood even though it’s gotten hipper.” and florists that can be found in Hell’s Kitchen. Now interna- Gonzalez, a knitwear design- tional designers are driving up er, plans to introduce her own rents. line of sweaters into the store. LuLu Guinness has a shop on “Living on 48th Street, I Bleeker Street, Ralph Lauren thought it would be great if I could has two and Marc Jacobs, three. be a pioneer,” said Chris Masaoay, Cynthia Rowley is opening a the owner of Mies + Design Shop store at 376 Bleecker Street and at 319 West 47th Street. Masaoay, Intermix is coming to the neigh- the former head of retail sales at borhood. Since being discovered the Cooper-Hewitt National by big name designers, rents on Now, for the first time, all of Design Museum, sells textiles, Bleecker Street have been the PANTONE Textile Colors vases and jewelry in his store. creeping up into the range of $80 are arranged chromatically in “This area once had a bad reputa- to $120 per square foot. the PANTONE for fashion and tion but now it’s a haven for peo- Stores in search of cheaper home color system. New ple with varied lifestyles and rents are moving south to colors, larger color chips and interests and talents.” Christopher Street. Basiques, Hell’s Kitchen was once one which sells fashion and home more chips on each page of the toughest neighborhoods in furnishings, set up shop at 19 make the world’s most widely- the city. Ruled for decades by the Christopher Street. Albertine, used color products a design Irish mob, the area was written which features young designers essential. So, try it on for size off by commercial interests. But such as Kathy Kemp, Sir, Nadia and who knows what great as other environs succumbed to Tarr and Christina Hattler, ideas you’ll come out with? the glossy patina of national opened at 13 Christopher Street. chains, areas such as the Nicole Meyer a broker at Meatpacking District and Hell’s Newmark/New Spectrum, is for fashion and home Kitchen are being rediscovered showing a space at 14 for their authenticity. Christopher Street. “I’ve been Contact your local distributor or call we’ve got your number. Taboon, a Middle Eastern getting a lot of calls but I haven’t 888.PANTONE. www.pantone.com eatery on 10th Avenue, is set to had any interest from national PANTONE® 17-1937 PANTONE Color identification is for artistic purposes and not for specification. open today. Its owner, Danny tenants,” she said. “Who knows. Hot Pink ® All trademarks are the property of Pantone, Inc. © Pantone, Inc., 2003. Hodak,operates a flooring busi- Who ever thought Marc Jacobs ness on 11th Avenue. or Ralph Lauren would open Mikhail Baryshnikov is expect- stores on Bleecker Street?” ed to open the Baryshnikov Center — Sharon Edelson WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 37 It’s In The Bag From left: Louis Vuitton’s epi Speedy keepall; Yves Saint Laurent’s Saint Tropez bag; Anya Hindmarch’s new Bespoke Ebury handbag, and Asprey’s clutch. Beyond the Boot THEIR BOOTS HAVE BEEN ON EVERY GIRL’S FEET this winter, and now Ugg Australia is ready to break out its first collection of handbags. Deckers Outdoor Corp., Ugg’s parent, teamed with Springfield, N.J.-based handbags firm Jacobs and Leslie Hsu Designs LLC to produce the licensed line, and first samples are scheduled to hit the World Shoe Association Show Tuesday. Connie Rishwain, Ugg’s president, is confident that Ugg fans will have no problem making the translation from boots to bags. “As long as [the bag] has sheepskin By Marc Karimzadeh and maybe even a few pairs of Roger Viviers, sans on it, it will make sense to the cus- pantyhose.” tomer,” she said. LET’S NOT KID OURSELVES — FASHION WEEK And plenty of sheepskin there is. is as much about the new looks on view in the front KATE BETTS, EDITOR, TIME STYLE & DESIGN: “Manolo Blahnik leop- The collection, which wholesales from row as it is about the runways. ard print boots — they are not too high so I can still $75 to $150 and targets existing In fashion’s equivalent of the red carpet, an editor run in them...and an Hermés Trim bag. No more ‘It’ Ugg wholesale accounts, consists of who manages to get her hands on a much-touted but bags for me.” three groups with varying degrees of ex- hard-to-get handbag can unleash a frenzy of sorts and posed fleece. Classic is available in col- inspire fierce looks of jealousy. After all, the right AMANDA ROSS, MARKET DIRECTOR, HARPER’S BAZAAR: “A Louis Vuitton ored sheepskin; Sundance mixes beige front-row bag signals the clout an editor has with epi leather chocolate brown keep-all bag and or brown sheepskin with fleece along designers and, in the trenches of chic, it’s as much a Prada’s round croc toe pump.” the seams, and Fluff, the most whimsi- sign of a magazine’s health as newsstand sales. cal group, features three styles covered Choosing the right accessory is a more competi- PAUL CAVACO, CREATIVE DIRECTOR, ALLURE: “A Gap messenger bag in longhair fleece. Like the boots, tive sport than ever, so here’s a preview of what in black nylon. It’s easy and highly functional for each handbag is lined with fleece. A messenger bag some of the editors believe will be this week’s my notebooks, programs, my supplies like aspirin, Designer Hsu said she was at- from Ugg’s debut front-row must-haves: Band-Aids for blisters and safety pins.” tracted to the project primarily be- handbag collection. cause of Ugg’s wide-reaching cus- AMY ASTLEY, EDITOR IN CHIEF, TEEN VOGUE: “I just carry a small ANNE MCNALLY, FASHION DIRECTOR, VANITY FAIR: “My handbag will be tomer base. “A lot of times you run into a shoe brand or clutch for money, my cell-phone, a pen and, of my Anya Hindmarch Bespoke [Ebury] handbag. It handbag line, and they’ve really got one target customer,” course, my Condé Nast pass. I like my bright green was a surprise from my children and has a quote she noted. “You’ve got suburban moms wearing Uggs, alligator Asprey clutch. No one else will have one, from them in French.” grandmas wearing Uggs and 16-year-old girls, too.” which is key in a bag.” The audience may be broad, but the Ugg season gen- CINDI LEIVE, EDITOR IN CHIEF, GLAMOUR: “A pink Yves Saint erally isn’t — save for those West Coast girls who wear the Pamela Fiori, editor in chief, Town & Country: “If Laurent Saint Tropez handbag, but it may be just a fleece-lined boots year-round with their denim minis. But the weather during fashion little too April to carry around in February. But by Hsu remains hopeful the bag collection will easily carry week is anything like [recent- April, everybody else will have worn theirs, so why over to spring. “Because the Ugg brand is so recognized ly], we’ll all be wearing Uggs not?” as a winter boot, the bags would be a little hard [to do for or Wellies and a Prada spring] because the only thing they use is the sheepskin,” backpack. If it warms up, ANNE SLOWEY, FASHION NEWS DIRECTOR, ELLE: “My vote is for Prada she said. But the shapes, she added, “could actually watch how fast the boots riding boots and Helmut Lang patent wedgies. translate into linen, leather, beautiful canvas or prints.” will come off, replaced by Heaven knows if we’ll see high-heeled Uggs, but — Emily Holt Ugg boots Jimmy Choos, Manolos anything’s possible in fashion.” p r o p o s t e : PH. VISUALIZE BIELLA - PARIGI - MÜNCHEN - NEW YORK - HONG KONG - SHANGHAI - TOKYO Add a very special S to your sensations. Even more exclusive, to be experienced with new intensity. An intimate pleasure to wear, Shamir Ultrafine Cashmere a new emotion, light and comforting. Shamir is all of this, re-invented cashmere. So extraordinarily soft and light that becomes pure and sensual pleasure to the touch. S i n c e 1 8 5 0 ZEGNA BARUFFA - LANE BORGOSESIA S.P.A. Filatura in Vallemosso - ITALY www.shamir.it 38 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 Fashion’s Bi Continued from page one of Tommy, had a memorable bout of televised depression recently during an episode of MTV’s “Rich Girls,” in which the spontaneous preparation of a Mexican meal led to happiness, he said, as “when you’ve got money and your friends don’t, sometimes you want to pay for them. But sometimes, they get a bit peeved and don’t want to think that you’re buying their affection. That’s the hard thing about having money.” a near nervous breakdown. The mental health of the fashion industry has never been all that stable. Just think But on the other hand, reports of late indicate there’s a luxury turnaround on the of Halston’s tirades, Calvin’s dependency issues and Yves Saint Laurent’s numerous doorstep and the spring collections, including those of the aforementioned depressed psychological maladies. Virtually every designer on Seventh Avenue has flipped their designers, were about all things pretty and optimistic lid once or twice — or, in Randolph Duke’s case, made a sport of being rough on the So what gives? Creative types are naturally susceptible to bipolar staff. So they all get labeled as “crazy” by their employees, who then disorders, but even by their own standards, designers are feeling a lit- propagate the various designer neuroses as they move from job to job tle erratic. “I understand the depressiveness of fashion right now,” said Alice Roi, a young designer with a bright future, who’s put a lot of effort into improving her personal outlook over the past year. “It is a turning “ So Iathink the life of fashion trading tales of manic depressives, obsessive compulsives, schizo- phrenics and a high occurrence of designers suffering from post-trau- matic stress disorder, usually right after their shows. One factor influencing what seems like an unusual number of point. Right when I started out, before the new Millennium, every- cases of depressed designers is the competition. Ever since the luxu- thing was fun and exciting and experimental, right there with Miguel Adrover and Imitation of Christ. It took a weird turn in the last year designer is ry market went bad three years ago, designers have had to cut back on expenses and staff, and a lot of them picked up the slack doing or so, and now I can’t stand to hear the words ‘clean’ and ‘luxurious’ any more.” actually much their own research and design. On top of that, retailers have become increasingly involved in encouraging designers to ramp up their pro- shorter, because A lot of designers feel like Roi. Although they might tell themselves they’re happy, they desperately long for the days of rambunctious ductivity, creating additional collections and exclusives for each store to get consumers — who’ve been depressed with fashion for fashion spirit, not conforming to the demands of Wall Street or public years — back into the mind-set of buying luxury goods at full price. opinion or whoever owns their company this week. But there are a lot of factors impacting the designer business right we measure “I’ve been bouncing off the walls, so to speak,” confessed Ellis Kreuger, designer of Tocca. “I think the burnout rate has really in- now, from the lingering effects of terrorism and war to the depressed value of the dollar — yes, it’s depressed, too — to the dismally cold them in seasons. creased over the last couple of years. There are certain friends or people I know who are taking a break or rethinking what it means to winter weather. There are moments of personal joy, like Perry Ellis designer Patrick Robinson’s new baby or Michael Kors getting revved Someone says, be in fashion. No matter what level you’re at, you’re continually de- signing. It used to be that you could have a break between the sea- up about his Michael launch (“and I’m not depressed about leaving sons, but now the retailers have forced us into doing all these things ‘How old are Paris,” he said, in a sly nod to Celine). But professionally, it’s been a little tougher to keep a straight face. — resort and holidays and transitional things all have to be designed. That causes stress in a lot of people.” When Tom Ford showed his last men’s wear collection for Gucci on you?’ and I say, Jan. 14, the first of his four farewells, there was a melancholy sense of Kreuger said he is able to maintain his sanity in large part thanks to having a boyfriend who is not in the fashion business. tragedy in the air. “Obviously, I’m very sad,” he said then. “I have had many sleepless nights. I’ve been incredibly depressed, but right now, I ‘Forty-two “He’s taught me not to take the job home with me,” Kreuger said. “Before I was living, breathing, eating, sleeping fashion. It’s very easy have to focus on doing the best job I can until the day I leave.” to forget it’s not 100 percent of your life. My advice is to marry some- collections. To put this in context, Ford earned a salary in 2002 of $4.7 million, plus a guaranteed bonus of $1.85 million. In April and May of 2003, Ford made $38 million by exercising his stock options, and in 2002, he made about $23 million in similar transactions. And in a textbook ex- ” — Roberto Cavalli body who’s not in it.” One thing that is clear when probing designers about the current mood of their profession is that most of them say they’re just fine. Of course, denial is a symptom of many mental disorders, which makes ample of avoidance, during the three weeks prior to the men’s Gucci show, Ford went such responses suspect. However, their responses do tend to reveal an interesting skiing with Valentino in Gstaad, Switzerland, and then hopped over to Mustique in pattern in the way designers think, which is that they maintain one eye on the collec- the Caribbean for a vacation on one of Lawrence Stroll’s properties. tion in front of them and the other on all those still to come. Who wouldn’t be depressed? “The mood of a fashion designer is kind of like a student on the night before the Clearly not McQueen, who is the most widely rumored to succeed Ford at YSL big examination,” said Roberto Cavalli. “It’s something between nerves and tension. I Rive Gauche and made $22.3 million when he sold his company to Gucci. Yet he told work like a student, because every six months there is a new examination, so I think The Tatler of London that he might give up fashion altogether, saying, “I need to take the life of a fashion designer is actually much shorter, because we measure them in stock of everything I’ve done and think.” The money has been as much a hindrance to seasons. Someone says, ‘How old are you?’ and I say, ‘Forty-two collections.’ ” WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 39 ipolar Blues “Creative people in general feel this,” concurred John Varvatos. “The question is always how far can you push it, and what are you going to do 17 seasons into it and still be new. There is so much pressure from being under the magnifying glass, that then so frustrated when it doesn’t work out the way you envisioned it.” Rowley found herself oddly comforted by Saint Laurent’s description in a docu- mentary of the completely miserable and draining process of putting together a col- you’re constantly dealing with it. It definitely can have an impact on my psyche, but lection, to conceptualize it and then execute such an extensive body of work. because I’ve been around for a while, I feel like I have a little more maturity in know- “It all has to come from inside of you,” she said. “You have to be forward-thinking, ing that it’s not going to break me if somebody doesn’t like it. Having worked for yet it’s such a personal thing, too, that it just takes everything out of you. It’s easy to Ralph and Calvin, and seeing that, you want to try to understand why people react the get depressed when you’re doing it. I was completely miserable to be around a week way they do. But there are also guys like Paul Smith. I don’t think any- ago, waiting for it all to come together, waiting for things to come in thing is ever going to rile him.” from around the world, waiting for enough pieces to come into place Designers also have had to suffer through some major disruption to realize and visualize what I’m working with here. Sometimes you recently, not the least of which are the global ramifications of Ford’s departure from Gucci. A lot of designers have been approached by the head-hunting firm looking to replace Ford in his roles at Gucci and YSL, leading to a lot of excitement and potential disappointment “ You have to be forward- don’t think you’re going to get to the next step.” Following up on his debut collection for Perry Ellis, Robinson said before his show Friday that he was feeling mixed emotions over the positive reactions to his first collection. Because production con- that has been prolonged due to the secrecy of negotiations over the past three months. And the funk might only increase if, after all that thinking, yet it’s cerns require him to work far in advance, his second season was nearly completed by the time his first was reviewed, so there was lit- effort, Gucci’s majority owner Pinault-Printemps-Redoute does tle room to turn around and change things based on the initial reac- what’s widely rumored and goes for insiders. such a personal tion. There also have been a lot of big financial deals in the works over “I think I’m damned depressed,” he said in jest, although it could the past year that either failed to come to fruition or remain up in the air — Varvatos is for sale, and so is Badgley Mischka, while Narciso thing, too, that be a case of using humor to mask a more serious situation. “I’m actu- ally nervous and crazed and happy at the same time. Actually, I’m ex- Rodriguez has been looking for new backing for a while. For many of the designers, it’s like getting dumped with no closure. it just takes cited. I also really try to put myself into a good spirit, because that’s what this whole brand is about. I can’t get all down and wear black “It’s just the cycles of fashion,” said Robert Duffy, president of Marc Jacobs. “When things don’t work out the way you want, it be- everything out of clothing and be depressed, because that would just put myself out of a job and I’ve got a kid to feed.” comes very frustrating. Everything is like that.” On the other extreme is Bradley Bayou, the Halston designer who Yet some designers seem to maintain a sunny disposition no mat- ter what the circumstances. Take Oscar de la Renta, who even when you. It’s easy to considers his optimism to be extreme, and it sounds like he’s taken a page or two from a few self-help manuals. “I’ve never been happier in he’s feuding with another designer or a journalist, does it with style and a sense of humor. That’s one of the reasons he’s been around for get depressed my life,” he said. “I choose to be optimistic because I have the choice. I’m not a cynical person. I do not have negative people in my life. I so long. “My mood is great,” he said. “In all the years that I’ve been in busi- when you’re simply get rid of them.” Actually, Bayou said, he uses a test when meeting anyone for the ness, I’ve never been as successful as I am now. All I can tell you is first time. As they approach, he asks himself, “How do I feel right doing it. about myself, and this is just a marvelous moment for us.” But it’s hard to be positive all the time, even Oscar would give you that. The act of creation is inherently stressful, as artistic types are frequently prone to strong cravings for acceptance and approval. ” — Cynthia Rowley now?” And when they walk away he asks the same question. “If I feel worse, I tend to exclude that person from my life,” Bayou said. “It’s not my job to make everybody happy. I can only help people who want to be helped. In the world of creativity and fashion, there What is unique to the fashion business is that designers work off-season, showing are swings of optimism and pessimism. I know there’s war going on and there are spring collections in the fall and fall in the spring, creating a confusing pattern of ups things that drag people down, but if you choose to be happy and optimistic, it kind of and downs that are in contrast to generalized seasonal reactions. gets you through that. It’s called the new optimism.” “Maybe that’s why there’s that giant fabric store in the garment district called Mood Well, a lot of it is personality. Roi keeps her footing firmly within the glass-half- Fabrics,” said Cynthia Rowley. “That is the cliché, that of the temperamental, narcis- empty camp. sistic, bipolar designer. But the fashion industry really is a very stressful place. There “Fashion is not looking for that rah-rah, hoo-hoo excitement right now,” she said. are not that many other industries or jobs where you have to reinvent the wheel twice “It’s just standing back and looking to make things a little more reality-based. And a year and be scrutinized by your peers. The creative process brings out all sorts of that’s depressing.” emotions and it does kind of have that emotional roller-coaster, Liza Minnelli-concert And for everyone in the middle, working out whatever problems they’re facing, feeling. It’s just that you can be so thrilled with something when you dream it up and Rowley has the perfect prescription: “There are drugs for these kinds of things.” 40 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 People With the Pencils Prada’s jacket. Goyard’s tote. By Anamaria Wilson Other than that I expect the designers to give us something we could not have thought of.” Kal Ruttenstein, senior vice president of NIGHTTIME INDULGENCE: “My Friday the 13th massage with fashion direction, Bloomingdale’s Sam Cagning.” WHAT HE’LL BE WEARING: “Although I usually wear Sean John from head to toe with Nike sneakers, since I’ve lost 60 Ed Burstell, vice president and general manager, pounds I’ll be wearing a suit and probably a raincoat Henri Bendel or a puffer coat to protect me from the elements.” WHAT THE BENDEL’S GIRL WILL WEAR: “Perry Ellis’ pink trench, FASHION SHOW STAPLE: “It’ll be me and my trusty striped Constança Basto python sandals [without hosiery], cane designed by Chuck Price.” Jonathan Saunders print dresses.” LOOKING FOR: “Spring has been about color — it’s certain- LOOKING FOR: “Everyone that’s new. Just in general, beauti- ly selling — so we’re going to continue our quest for ful coats and outerwear with the feeling from spring of color.” color and print….We’re in the mood for buy now-wear TOP SHOWS: “There are many we’re excited about, like now, i.e. lighter fabrications for earlier delivery.” Marc Jacobs, Zac Posen, Derek Lamb and Proenza SHOWS THAT TOP HIS LIST: “A combination of the established Schouler.” and the young: Michael Kors, Matthew Williamson, NIGHTTIME INDULGENCE: Ten o’clock dinners at Schiller’s Jeffrey Chow, Peter Som, Esteban Cortazar, Daryl K.” Liquor Bar. BIG NIGHT OUT: “Of course, it’s our party for Alice Temperley, hosted by Helena Christensen.” Jaqui Lividini, senior vice president of fashion FASHION SHOW STAPLE: New Miguel Adrover custom-made merchandising, Saks Fifth Avenue black cashmere coat. WHAT SHE’LL BE CARRYING: “A tan Prada chain-handle bag be- cause, [even though it’s from spring], you can still Robert Burke, vice president and senior wear it with a fur.” fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman FASHION SHOW STAPLE: Hermès zippered organizer. LOOKING FOR: “Tailoring. We’ve had a strong season with jack- LOOKING FOR: “We’re always looking for newness, any- ets. I’m also curious to see fabrics with more interesting thing directional, certainly new designers and inspi- textures, but still tailored and very feminine. We expect ration from established designers.” to see a significant amount of fur accessories, too. ” MOST ANTICIPATED SHOWS: “I’m excited to see everything.” NIGHTTIME INDULGENCE: “Having a drink at home.” NIGHTTIME INDULGENCE: “Sleep. I’m seven months pregnant, FASHION SHOW STAPLES: John Lobb shoes and Altoids. after that last show I’ll be going home.” Roopal Patel, fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman Julie Gilhart, vice president and fashion director, WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: Black lace Chanel coat with gros- Barneys New York grain trim, Tuleh zebra coat, little floral-print WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: “Barbara TFank floral blazer, blouses from Peter Som, and anything from Tracy Rochas tangerine sweater, Lanvin black pleated Reese; Matthew Williamson’s pale mint green skirt and Kazuko crystals for protection.” python bag, and Lambertson Truex’s orange FASHION SHOW STAPLES: “My trail mix so I can have energy shopper. to continue hiking to all the shows and appoint- FASHION SHOW STAPLE: iPod. ments. Second, my Goyard tote bag that seems to be TOP SHOWS: “We’re looking forward to seeing everyone. able to carry absolutely everything.” It’s a great lineup.” LOOKING FOR: “We need great coats because our cus- BIG NIGHT OUT: The Y oung Fellows’ Winter Fête at The Chloé’s jean. tomers have worn to death the coats they have now. Frick. The View From Abroad Lauren, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan and NICOLE PICART, EXECUTIVE and rigorous style. France gave him a Tommy Hilfiger, among others. FASHION EDITOR, MADAME FIGARO: bit more frivolity.” New York fashion highlights: “I don’t First things first: “Taking a walk down Typically New York: The delis. think it’s a great moment in New York Fifth Avenue and seeing the latest art fashion, but I do love how Ralph Lauren exhibits.” DANIELA FEDI, WHO WRITES FOR VIRGINIE MOUZAT, FASHION CRITIC Dislikes: “I don’t like Midtown. And I takes on the pure English look. It takes Shopping spots: “The three “Bs” — THE MILAN DAILY IL GIORNALE: AT PARIS’ LE FIGARO: hate all of the air-conditioning.” someone outside Europe to really Bergdorf’s, Barneys and Take on New York fashion: “I adore Ralph First things first: “Go to the Mercer for Most looking forward to in New York: understand the European Bloomingdale’s.” Lauren, and his recovery of the American a tea. You see everyone. It’s like “American fashion is very product- continental chic.” Fashion shows attending: Ralph tradition. I also love Donna Karan and I reading a magazine; you get all of the oriented. It’s efficient and buyable.” Most looking forward to in New York: Lauren, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Zac used to like Calvin Klein — now we’ll information about what’s going on in “Dressing up in the beautiful Posen and others. have to see what happens. I appreciate an instant.” PHILIP UTZ, EDITOR AT LARGE, women’s clothes from the various New York fashion highlights: “I really how Americans are concrete and the way Likes: “What I love about New York is NUMÉRO MAGAZINE: photo shoots, slipping on the enjoy Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren for they turned sports clothes chic: They the energy in the street. It’s a jolt. It’s First things first: “Having dinner at the beautiful heels and belts from John their rigor and how their ideas paved the way. I also go to Anna Sui, and also modernity, which is a change from Empire Diner or at Il Cantinori.” Galliano and Dior and going out materialize, I hope it will continue. Michael Kors, I love that New York old Europe.” Fashion shows attending: Ralph on the town.” Michael Kors also has a very accurate welcomes all kinds of designers.” WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 41 Sue Patneaude, executive vice president LOOKING FOR: “I am looking forward to seeing all the coats.” of designer apparel, Nordstrom MOST ANTICIPATED SHOWS: Matthew Williamson, Peter Som, Anna Sui WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: “My cashmere black-and-white tweed and Marc Jacobs. Donna Karan suit and, for color, my lavender Celine coat.” BIG NIGHTS OUT: “The MAC event on Wednesday night and the Louis FASHION SHOW STAPLE: “My Chanel tote that works both as a handbag Vuitton opening on Tuesday night. And on Monday night, my and a tote.” girlie dinner with Elizabeth Saltzman, Amy Sacco, Anne LOOKING FOR: “We look for a continuation of femininity and color. McNally and Loree Rodkin, after the Marc Jacobs show.” I hope the print story continues; I don’t think it has been tapped out yet.” Sarah Lerfel, buyer, Colette in Paris MOST ANTICIPATED SHOWS: Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Narciso WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: A Tess Giberson skirt, Marc Jacobs “denim Rodriguez, Donna Karan, Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein, tweed” jacket and a Proenza Schouler tweed short. Jeffrey Chow and Jennifer Nicholson. LOOKING FOR: Independent, quality and energetic brands like NIGHTTIME ACTIVITIES: “We have shows each night so those are at the Lutz & Patmos, Generra, VPL and Tom Binns for accessories. top of my list.” MOST ANTICIPATED SHOWS: Marc by Marc Jacobs and Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, As Four, Libertine. Meital Grantz, owner, Talulah G. BIG NIGHTS OUT: Jeremy Scott party, V and Adidas party, Raf WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: “Chloé’s white bell-bottom pants, Blinde 88 Simons event. special sunglasses in dark brown, Chloé black leather kodak bag, Pegah cashmere poncho and a pink Chanel caviar classic Natalie Massenet, founder and owner of Net-a-Porter, bag with gold hardware.” the on-line designer Web site FASHION SHOW STAPLES: White Montblanc pen, Louis Vuitton yellow WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: “In my dreams, I am wearing a Fifties skirt epi leather, YSL mohair and gold cuff. with kitten heels and a tweedy jacket with a rosette. In reali- LOOKING FOR: Cashmere sweaters that sit on the hips, fabulous ty, I’ll be bringing lots of vintage furs, jeans by Seven, flat wool coats, bouclé jackets and great earrings. boots by Le Flesh.” TOP SHOW: Proenza Schouler. FASHION SHOW STAPLE: “My new Trio 600 phone, which is amazing, NIGHTTIME INDULGENCE: Late dinners at Da Silvano. my digital camera and my laptop.” Chanel’s LOOKING FOR: “I’m looking for anything that stands out from jacket. Stefani Greenfield, the crowd, and I will also be looking on the streets, too, Proenza Schouler’s shorts. co-owner of the Scoop boutiques in addition to the runways. I think the Ugg boot struck WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: Her Marc Jacobs Stella bag, a everyone, and while I won’t be looking for replicas Matthew Stone Island ski cap, a Polo Sport black down of the boot, I will be looking for new directions.” Williamson’s coat and a Manolo boot. TOP SHOWS: Roland Mouret, Sass and Bide, Michael caftan. LOOKING FOR: Jackets with a Savile Row feel, fit- Kors, Narciso Rodriguez and Marc Jacobs. ted blazers, pants with slim legs and fall col- NIGHTTIME INDULGENCE: Sleeping. ors —navy and grays, bordeaux, egg- plant, camel. Cédric Charbit: merchandise manager MOST ANTICIPATED SHOWS: Both Marc Jacobs for women’s wear at Printemps, Paris shows, Matthew Williamson, Tuleh, WHAT HE’LL BE WEARING: Balenciaga Shetland Michael Kors, Diane von turtleneck, James Perse Ts and a Dior Furstenberg. Homme gray denim and coat. BIG NIGHT OUT: “Saturday night at LOOKING FOR: “Strong and simple Raoul’s with my husband for pieces...We are looking for sexy, luxuri- Valentine’s.” ous basics, like what we find in Los FASHION SHOW STAPLE: “My Blackberry. I Angeles [new jeans and new T-shirts], can’t leave home without it.” but also very chic items with a big re- turn of the vest and coat.” Sarah Easley, co-owner, Kirna TOP SHOWS: Proenza Schouler, Marc Zabête Jacobs, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Narciso WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: “A new ivory, thin Rodriguez. Rick Owens wrap sweater, BIG NIGHT OUT: Victoria’s Secret party on Marc Jacobs’ Stella bag. Maloles ballerina flats in bright Wednesday and V magazine’s on Thursday. green with orange trim and a Matthew Williamson neon ani- mal-print silk caftan. Most likely not all together.” Anna Garner, head of fashion, men’s and women’s, Selfridges FASHION SHOW STAPLE: Chloé’s green bag for spring. WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: Chloé high-waisted Seventies faded jeans, LOOKING FOR: “We are more interested in adding new New York Alaïa stilettos, and a Zoe Knight leather shell clasp bag that designers than in importing new resources for fall ’04. doubles as a belt and bag in one. There is more than enough talent here and the value is FASHION SHOW STAPLE: Smythson of Bond Street notebook, a stock- much better for our clients.” pile of pens from Muji. MOST ANTICIPATED SHOWS: Sebastian Pons, Peter Som, Behnaz LOOKING FOR: “Originality, anything abstract, more independ- Sarafpour, Tuleh and Matthew Williamson. ent designers than megabrands, men’s wear-influenced pieces for women, Marlene Dietrich rather than Marilyn Beth Buccini, co-owner of Kirna Zabete Monroe.” WHAT SHE’LL BE CARRYING: “A coral Jimmy Choo purse in protest of MOST ANTICIPATED SHOWS: “Peter Som, he just gets better from season winter.” to season, Derek Lam and Doo Ri — love the energy of the SPRING STAPLES: “I wish I could break them out now….Derek Lam new guard.” carnation-print coat with teal satin ribbon, Maloles green BIG NIGHT OUT: Cheap Date party on Wednesday night. ballet flats, Tuleh gown, Sebastian Pons printed jacket.” TOP SHOWS: “Really excited to see Derek Lam and Tuleh.” Bridget Cosgrave, women’s wear fashion director NIGHTTIME INDULGENCE: “Going home and playing with my daughter at Matches, the London-based specialty store at night! Plus the Frick party on Thursday.” WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: “I know it’s going to be too cold to wear what I want to wear, which is a Prada silk tweed jacket with Carl Dias, buyer for three Traffic boutiques in Los Angeles a brooch and Prada’s beaten cotton dress with the corsage. FAVORITE SPRING PIECES: “I’m into pants. I’m done with jeans.” What I will be wearing is Balenciaga’s wrap jersey dress LOOKING FOR: “I’m really into jackets at the moment that can be with Bottega Veneta’s hand-painted snake shoes and a vin- worn on both coasts. They can be luxe, but I don’t want them tage Diane von Furstenberg shirtwaister.” to do too many tricks. Classic but very modern.” LOOKING FOR: “I love the new cleaned-up, updated classic look MOST ANTICIPATED SHOW: “Daryl K. She’s always slightly ahead.” that the Americans do so well. I’m talking about box-pleat NIGHTTIME INDULGENCE: “A Broadway show, probably ‘Wicked.’ skirts and cashmere sweaters.” TOP SHOWS: Marc Jacobs and Diane von Furstenberg. Tracey Ross, owner, Tracey Ross in Los Angeles NIGHTTIME INDULGENCE: Hot chocolate. WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: “I’ll be wearing earmuffs, a Jil Sander fur — With contributions from Emilie March, Paris; hat, my Ann Demeulemeester boots and one of my fur coats. Samantha Conti, London, Or I’ll be wearing my really superwarm Northface jacket.” and Kristin Young, Los Angeles Dislikes: “I don’t like how Americans Favorite watering hole: “I always make on product and techniques. Paris is fashion. There are many synergies and think a little bit of sleaze, a little bit of don’t tolerate smokers, and that you a point of having a drink at the bar at more glamour and theatrical, but in the cultural exchanges between Italy and seediness is a good thing.” can’t even smoke when you’re outside, Grand Central Terminal, which I find U.S., the shows are more focused on the U.S. and we keep this in mind.” First things first: “A pedicure. They are in a waiting for a show. They are very rigid in beautiful and fascinating.” the product like in Italy. different class to the pedicures in London.” general, and there is not much Likes: “In New York, I love to go to the JESS CARTNER-MORLEY, FASHION Pet peeve: “The one thing that freaks flexibility with invitations, for example.” LAURA ASNAGHI, WHO WRITES FOR Lower East Side and see the trends, see EDITOR OF THE GUARDIAN IN me out at New York Fashion Week in Likes: “But, I love, love New York — THE MILAN DAILY LA REPUBBLICA: what young people are doing. I love LONDON: February is all the American editors in going to museums, the Guggenheim Take on New York shows: “I go going to museums. I also write about Favorite U.S. designers: “Like all the skirts and bare legs. How do they do and the Metropolitan are the best. regularly, as it is important for us to trends and news, so I pay special British editors, I love Marc Jacobs and that? It scares me.” There is the added stress of sending have a complete vision of the shows in attention to new restaurants, hotels and Narciso Rodriguez; I am also excited about Savory souvenirs: “It used to be Krispy pieces by 2 p.m., but we are always Milan, Paris and New York. We pay so on. It’s all very friendly, and you can seeing Zac Posen, Proenza Schouler and Kreme doughnuts and peanut butter under pressure, New York, Paris, special attention to Ralph Lauren, eat when you want.” Esteban Cortazar this season.” M&Ms, but now you can get both in Milan… At Bryant Park, a few seasons Calvin Klein and Donna Karan, but I’m Why she comes: “There is an increasing Take on American fashion: “To me, the London, so I have more room for ago, my bag was open and I found a also interested in Zac Posen, Betsey attention to the New York shows, as main difference between American and clothes.” squirrel in it. How delightful! I Johnson and Marc Jacobs. I like the many of our readers are women who European style is that Americans tend Shopping stops: “Jeffrey, Barneys, loved it.” fact that American fashion is centered travel or in any case are interested in to be very polished. Europeans tend to Dean & Deluca.” 42 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 Fashion week’s backstage chaos. Marc by Marc Jacobs’ fall 2003 show sealed the bang trend. MAC’s artistry in action. Gucci’s spring Beauty’s Trickle-Down Theory 2002 runway revealed a glimpse of curls to come. BEAUTY’S GOT LEGS, BUT THEY’RE NOT AS FAST Moreover, speed of adoption can depend on the type of a lot of straightening and relaxing services in the salon as fashion’s gams at turning on a trend. marketer. Typically, Olum observed, smaller, more bou- when everyone on the runways was wearing curly In fact, beauty experts say it takes at least six months tique-oriented niche brands “are able to get product out hair,” Dufourg said. for the ultrahip — and up to a year for the masses — earlier,” which can really help the “It” girls, Olum noted. Pasquale Ferrante, art director for Cutler NYC who before runway beauty trends turn up on Jane Q. Public. And these principles hold true across the globe, also works for Redken, explained that while it may Color cosmetics trends — like red lipstick and blue eye noted Anika Betz, marketing director of the London- seem trends come and go quickly, they always come full shadow, to name two that have trickled down to the con- based Pout. “We saw a lot of pastel shades in the circle. “First, hair had to be all one length, then there sumer level lately — tend to arrive a few months ahead of spring/summer 2004 shows last fall, and that inspired us had to be bangs. Now the bangs are getting longer (à la hair trends, which typically take a little more time to to launch the Knickerbockerglory collection in April [a Jennifer Aniston and Charlize Theron), and soon they break in, according to top New Y ork stylists. Often, color new range of shades, which includes ice blue, mint, will get even longer” so that hair effectively will trends are on consumers’ lips — literally — within six bubblegum pink and lemon eye shadows]. We are also become one length again, Ferrante said. months, while a hair trend might take one to two years. very inspired by the U.S. market, and have recently As for color, a number of companies believe that the And in some cases, according to John Demsey, presi- introduced a matte finish to some of our products due runway’s influences can be tracked back before the cat- dent of MAC, runways’ makeup looks never make it to the to feedback [from that market.] In the U.K. and L.A., our walks are even put up — that is, to influential European consumer level at all. “There’s just no one-size-fits-all,” bright shades are very popular, but in New York, they textiles shows. Jo Wilby, color specialist for Procter & said Demsey, whose brand is the new official cosmetics prefer the look to be toned down.” Gamble, noted that she scours the biggest global shows sponsor for Olympus Fashion Week — and which will also According to stylist and salon owner Rodney Cutler, beau- each year — notably, Ideacomo in Milan and Première support dozens of shows in New Y ork, London, Paris and ty’s pace from the runway to the mall is evolutionary, one Vision in Paris — for the colors, textures and sheens the Milan. The brand has been a longtime mainstay backstage. that hits several stops before trickling down to the masses. designers will be working with that season. “Our job is “Sometimes beauty runway looks can validate what’s “What we do on the runway is so strong it will not to design color trends that will complement seasonal already on the street, sometimes the looks will trickle appeal to the salon client,” said Cutler. “But when they dress,” said Wilby. “You don’t see garments made at this down to counter next season, and some don’t trickle down start seeing it editorially in the fashion pages, and point, but they [fabrics] create the color stories.” at all,” Demsey said. “Certain shows are more commer- when they see a celebrity wear it in a watered-down B.J. Gillian, P&G’s official makeup pro, is there to fine- cial, and some are done for the effects and aren’t meant to version, then the trend can take.” He used the frizzed- tune shades and help determine what products are best be literally interpreted. However, we’ve done promotion- out hair that appeared at Dior’s spring 2002 show as an suited to reflect the seasonal mood, such as whether a cer- al color collections that have been inspired by looks back- example that was “too much” for the mainstream. But tain beauty look can best be acquired using a wax pencil stage, and we’ve tweaked other color collections depend- when supermodel Gisele Bündchen began wearing her or a gel-based item. For Cover Girl customers, said Gillian, ing on things we’ve seen in our work backstage.” hair in voluminous, wavy locks that summer — a com- “We adapt what we do see on the runways and try to make In fact, how quickly — or even if — a look is adopt- mercial take on the ’do — people grabbed onto it. it goof-proof.” The minute the shows are announced he ed largely depends on two things: the type of consumer Frédéric Fekkai noted that the same thing hap- said, “we have a team that is mobilized” to monitor the col- and the speed at which product reaches the market, pened with bangs, which debuted on fall 2002 runways lections. “While we know a year ahead what the thread according to Betsy Olum, senior vice president of mar- at shows of designers such as Oscar de la Renta, Anna and fabric and dye lot could be on the runway, it is any- keting for Sephora USA. The retailer’s New York-based Sui and Balenciaga, where they hung like sheets of body’s guess what it turns out to be and what is chosen.” creative team, she noted, is constantly looking at the rain in front of models’ faces. But it wasn’t until Heidi Cover Girl operates a manufacturing plant in Hunt fashion world, evaluating trends and listening to cus- Klum wore bangs that the masses caught on. Valley, Md., that can quickly make adjustments as needed. tomer feedback — while working at least six months in John Ruggiero for Bumble and bumble added that Stephanie Klein Peponis, executive vice president, advance on themes for the coming season. Marc Jacobs’ Mod-inspired fall 2003 show and Britney global marketing at Revlon, remarked there is a con- When it comes to consumers, Olum perceives a line Spears’ cover for WWD’s sister magazine W (both of fluence of events that Revlon monitors to provide prod- of distinction between early adopters of runway looks which are owned by Advance Publications), in which ucts and shade statements to lure consumers. “Revlon’s — a relatively small bunch she called “trendsetters” — she wore bangs, drove home the big bang trend. role has been to create trends as well as be on trend,” and a more mainstream audience that prefers to wait Curly hair, which began appearing on spring 2002 she noted. “The runways really push the edge and until seasonal cosmetics make their way into stores runways, is just now coming on strong in salons. “We’ve allow us endless room to play, which is a perfect com- before adopting a look. been saying that curly, wavy hair is in now for years,” plement to what we do. Some of the runway looks are The smaller, more proactive set of fashionistas, said Cutler. “But just now salons are putting away the not wearable, but it gives us a huge arena to bring them Olum contended, immediately go into the marketplace straightening irons and breaking out the curling irons.” from the runway to reality.” and sniff out hot-off-the-runway looks from existing Hairstylists agree that beauty magazines validate Tara Cohen, a product developer at Revlon, added, offerings. “Certainly the trendsetters see it on the run- looks on the runway, since many of the trends aren’t easy “We want to take things that are extraordinary out way, get inspired and go out looking for product that sells. And since many consumers don’t have the confi- there and take them to her [the customer] to use will give them that look,” said Olum. dence to step immediately into a trend, it takes seeing it throughout her day. We are looking at how she can On the other hand, the rate at which the mainstream in magazines or on celebrities for the trend to catch on. make the application in her life.” adopts a look can depend on when new product reach- Laurent Dufourg, owner of Privé salons, agrees six — Andrea Nagel, Laura Klepacki es stores. “The majority of consumers waits to see months is about how long it takes for the fashion and and Julie Naughton, with contributions from what’s new from [a beauty] company before looking for style conscious to mimic a beauty trend. But for the rest Kristin Finn and Matthew W. Evans, New York, makeup,” said Olum. of America, a year is usually the norm. “We were doing and Ellen Burney, London WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004 43 Queer Eye for Fashion Week Thom Filicia A rainy morning from “Queer welcomed the Eye for the opening of Olympus Straight Guy.” Fashion Week. By Eric Wilson give the idea that they are putting everything else behind them, because all they really want to wear is their Olympus cameras. I felt the fountain had been neglected in the past.” NO ONE WOULD EVER EQUATE NEW YORK’S FASHION WEEK TO YOUR AVERAGE Frankly, it now looks abused. Wouldn’t any of the 100-some designers involved in schlub with a hairy back, but when organizers of the semiannual runway shows in Bryant Fashion Week please lend this poor man some clothes? Park took a long look at themselves through a different lens, thanks to a new title sponsor, Nevertheless, Filicia — and Olympus — have scored big points with the 600 registered they suddenly discovered some problem areas. So they called in the professionals — or just Fashion Week photographers, who now have on-site repair services at hand, iMac stations to one of them, anyway. download their images, extra cameras to borrow and their own lounge, covered in pleasant Interior designer Thom Filicia, a.k.a. the home styling representative of “Queer Eye for geometric print area rugs. Mayor Bloomberg applauded the photographers as well, stepping the Straight Guy,” was given the honorary title of Olympus design director and charged with into a makeshift photo pit for the event and offering a few comments on the fashion industry’s making over the inside of the Bryant Park tents, much as he would any hapless victim on importance to New Y ork City, representing $35 billion in economic activity and 155,000 jobs his Bravo program. His mission was to spruce up the place — which hasn’t seen a real — or 5 percent of the city’s private employment. update since the Dinkins administration — to reflect the corporate spirit of Olympus, 7th “Y ou’re going to see some wonderful clothes modeled by the most beautiful people, but on Sixth’s new title sponsor, and also to put more focus on the photographers. these are the ones I want you to look at — the audience,” Bloomberg said. “New Y orkers are Along with Mayor Michael Bloomberg, Kenneth Cole, Olympus executives and Fern some of the best-looking people in the world.” Mallis, executive director of 7th on Sixth, Filicia unveiled his work at a Friday morning There are a few fashion designers who might have a problem with that directive, ribbon-cutting ceremony. And the look is really something — maybe not fierce, but he preferring that attention be on their clothes. Come to think of it, they’d probably have their sure did Olympus proud. The biggest change in Bryant own suggestions for how to spruce up the week. So let’s turn Park is that the tents’ interiors are mostly black, giving to another makeshift mélange of stylish personalities for them a sepulchral pallor, an effect that was heightened by a rainy winter’s morn. The tents are dark enough to felt the had “ Ineglectedfountainpast. been in the their advice. Here, the Fab Five meets the Fashion Five. When asked the other day, Oscar de la Renta, the master of develop film inside, if it weren’t for the fact that everybody shoots digitally these days. At least Filicia wore a bright blue suit, the cheeriest pop of color in the place. “I wanted to create a space with comfort in mind for the ” manners, said all Fashion Week needs to look better is simple: “Start on time,” he said. Perry Ellis designer Patrick — Thom Filicia Robinson, looking outside his window, was similarly succinct: “Move it to Miami.” Cynthia Rowley suggested a helpful hint people who are here a lot,” said Filicia, sitting on gray flannel modular furniture, along in “hiring male and female models to sprint around the park in sunglasses to give it a more with a sparse supply of tiny paillette-covered pillows embroidered with rhinestone Ws (as glamorous effect,” while Alice Roi is a proponent of simplifying her schedule: “I’d spread in the hotel chain, another sponsor). “I wanted to give it a hint of a residential feel with it out and make it a fashion month,” she said. lighting and rugs. It’s an essence of the luxury of being at home, without being literal.” “I would close the city to traffic, except for fashion people,” added Michael Kors. “At All around the main tent, just as in most people’s homes, are alcoves celebrating things least Mayor Bloomberg could do that for us.” such as MAC cosmetics, Song Airlines and Dunkin’ Donuts — whose marketing executives While he was at it, Kors — is it Kyan? — had a few other suggestions: “I would also remind looking to chic up the cruller must have had a group coronary when Kenneth Cole laid out everyone involved — the models, hairdressers, music people, editors, stylists and press — that trays of Krispy Kremes for his guests. Smack dab in the middle of it all, where it’s been what we do for a living is still a very pleasurable way to make money. People complain a lot, but since 1912, is the Josephine Shaw Lowell fountain designed by Charles Adams Platt, which we could be doing something a lot more difficult. We could be at war. We could be in the Filicia has chosen as his coup de grass, filling its cement basin with some random topiary medical practice. I’m so tired of people whining that ‘I’m wiped.’ Another thing, make the tents and a dozen white mannequins modeling the latest Olympus offerings — and nothing else. in such a way that everyone could have a front row seat in an incredibly comfortable chair. “It seemed to me to be a good idea to bring the park into the space,” Filicia said. “The “And maybe everyone could TiVo the shows and if it gets boring, we could fast forward fountain is the real key to the park, and I brought in the mannequins, which are nude to them,” he continued. “That way, people could go to 10 shows in two hours.” Mayor Bloomberg Filicia's new look for the joined the Josephine Shaw Lowell photographers’ pit. fountain. PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER YOUR LEFT HAND LIVES FOR LOVE. YOUR RIGHT HAND LIVES FOR THE MOMENT. YOUR LEFT HAND WANTS TO BE HELD. YOUR RIGHT HAND WANTS TO BE HELD HIGH. WOMEN OF THE WORLD, RAISE YOUR RIGHT HAND. THE NEW DIAMOND RIGHT HAND RING. MODERN VINTAGE, FLORAL, ROMANTIC AND CONTEMPORARY STYLES AT ADIAMONDISFOREVER.COM Top right: ©2003 Caressa. Bottom right: ©2003 Universal Pacific. Top left: ©2003 Beaudry. Bottom left: public domain. The Forevermark is used under license.
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