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					                        CALVIN’S NEW DATE/6 INSPIRATION STRIKES/16
                         Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • February 7-8, 2004 • $2.00




                        WWDWEEKEND                                    The New York Collections



                                                                             A Fresh Crop
                                                                             NEW YORK — This is only his second collection for
                                                                             the revived Perry Ellis label, but Patrick Robinson got
                                                                             his formula for the house just right. The essence of
                                                                             Ellis was always freshness and playfulness, and
                                                                             Robinson managed to embody those qualities, with a
                                                                             dash of Fifties retro and lots of girly charm. Here, his
                                                                             little bomber jacket and straight skirt. For more on
                                                                             the shows, see pages 14 and 15.




                                                                             Another Season Arrives
                                                                             And Designers Bemoan
                                                                             Fashion’s Bipolar Blues
                                                                             By Eric Wilson
                                                                             NEW YORK — Oh,
                                                                             cheer up.
                                                                                Fashion is a
                                                                             world of many
                                                                             emotions, but lately
                                                                             it seems to be
                                                                             centered around its
                                                                             extremes — sheer elation or utter
                                                                             depression. Tom Ford is depressed about
                                                                             leaving Gucci Group and Alexander
                                                                             McQueen is depressed he’s being
                                                                             considered for Tom’s job. The fragrance
                                                                             business is always being described as
                                                                             depressed. Even Ally Hilfiger, daughter
                                                                                                         See Fashion’s, Page38
PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA
coterie
sunday, monday, tuesday, february 29 - march 2, 2004
HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone 212- 9400600 www.hugoboss.com
      New York Los Angeles
Plano San Jose Coral Gables
                                                                                                                    WWDWEEKEND
6   WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004



CKI Reschedules Show Time,
Putting Out Other Designers
By Rosemary Feitelberg                                    shows, Y oko Devereaux and Famura. Famura plans
                                                          to go ahead with its show at Splashlight Studios as
NEW YORK — Calvin Klein Inc. set the fashion              planned, according to Grace Fung, who is launching
calendar in a scramble on Friday when its design-         the ready-to-wear collection with Naoki Kitamura.
er made the decision to move its runway show                  “We can’t change the time,” Fung said. “I think
from Tuesday evening to Thursday at 4 p.m. —              we’ll be fine. We already sent the invitations to
without mentioning it to the designer who had al-         Paris and other countries. Honestly, I was a little
ready planned to show then.                               disappointed but that’s the world we live in.”
    Several designers were upset by the company’s             Devereaux creative director Andy Salzer said,
last-minute decision to reschedule its runway show        “Going head-to-head with Calvin Klein is not a good
to a time space originally held by James Coviello.        position to be in. We’re small enough that if we have
In response, Coviello, Daryl Kerrigan, Roland             to switch the show, I can probably finagle that.”
Mouret and men’s wear designer Y        oko Devereaux         Coviello has also expressed concern about
have changed or are considering a change in their         model availability. But according to the Klein
time slots. Shows are sometimes the one big               spokeswoman, there should be little overlap. “We
splurge for firms without the                                                   usually have a fairly unique
clout behind Calvin Klein, now Francisco                                        casting, aside from a few major
owned by Phillips-Van Heusen.          Costa                                    girls,” she said.
    “It’s so inconsiderate, it’s                                                   Having spent two weeks
beyond belief for them to do                                                    casting for the show, Coviello
this and not even recognize                                                     said DNA, IMG and other mod-
someone else is showing at                                                      eling agencies were unaware of
the same time,” said Coviello,                                                  the change until he called. He
who moved his show up an                                                        said, “As far as the models go,
hour, after learning Klein’s                                                    we’re not sure to what degree
new slot conflicted with his.                                                   this will affect us.”                  Designer’s
    Fern Mallis, executive direc-                                                  While some are thinking             inspirations,
tor of 7th on Sixth, which pro-                                                 big, others are thinking small.        page 16. Here,
duces Olympus Fashion Week,                                                     Imitation of Christ plans to           from Ruffian.
said, “It’s very disappointing                                                  host its smallest show ever at
when designers move at the                                                      Jeanne Greenberg Rohatyn’s
last minute, after we’ve tried to
make a coordinated schedule.
                                                                                Salon 94 at 12 East 94th Street.
                                                                                Located in Rohatyn’s Carnegie
                                                                                                                                                                     FASHION
And for people to decide to
switch, especially when they’re
                                                                                Hill home, the 1,500-square-
                                                                                foot space seats just 45, quite a
                                                                                                                    14             The New York Collections got under way with trends that ranged from punk
                                                                                                                                   to psychedelic-inspired to just plain good-looking.
stepping onto a show that has                                                   drop compared with the hun-
already been scheduled, is un-
fair. For smaller designers,
                                                                                dreds that used to pour into
                                                                                Imitation of Christ shows.
                                                                                                                                                                     GENERAL
these shows can make or break
their careers.”
                                                                                   Designer Tara Subkoff said
                                                                                she loved the idea of a salon, a     1             It seems lately that fashion designers are happy one minute and miserable
                                                                                                                                   the next, but that’s just the tip of the iceberg in their mental disorders.
    Calvin Klein designer                                                       meeting of the minds among
Francisco Costa said on Friday,
“Basically, we made the deci-
                                                                                designers, artists and poets.
                                                                                Conceptual artist Paula
                                                                                                                    16             Birth of a Notion: A diversity of designers talk about the sometimes-
                                                                                                                                   unusual, often-amusing roots of their fall collections.
sion last night after getting an
update on deliveries. We’ve
                                                                                Hayes’ “Forest” exhibition at
                                                                                Salon 94 is the ideal backdrop,     26             Fashion’s next generation: the kids of Donna Karan, Oscar de la Renta,
                                                                                                                                   Carolina Herrera, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren are making their mark.
had delays because of major                                                     she said.
storms in Italy.” Calvin Klein
will now show at 4 p.m. on
                                                                                   “We keep doing these
                                                                                shows that are very large and
                                                                                                                    40             People with Pencils: Retailers speak out about what they’ll buy and what
                                                                                                                                   they’ll wear to the shows this week.
Thursday, while Coviello has
moved his show to 3 p.m. that
                                                                                almost like a circus. I decided
                                                                                to just have the people who         36             The rough-and-tumble area of Manhattan’s West Side called Hell’s Kitchen
                                                                                                                                   has seen quaint boutiques and cafes taking root amid the squalor.
day. (Roland Mouret, who was                                                    absolutely need to be there,”
supposed to show at that time,
took Klein’s original time slot
                                                                                Subkoff said. “It’s more about
                                                                                having the people who sup-
                                                                                                                    28             For a mellow designer like John Varvatos, who’s used to swimming in the
                                                                                                                                   smaller men’s wear pond, the larger women’s ocean might seem daunting.
of 6 p.m. on Tuesday.)
    Costa said about 60 percent
of the collection has yet to ar-
                                                                                port the collection.”
                                                                                   Carlos Miele has moved his
                                                                                show from Tuesday night in
                                                                                                                    30             Every season boasts its newcomers and this season’s runway rookies
                                                                                                                                   range from former circus performers to a chic mogul wife.

rive, including numerous core
pieces around which the col-
                                                                                                                    43             When 7th on Sixth organizers took a look through an Olympus lens, they
                                                                                                                                   knew it was time for a little help in the form of “Queer Eye” Thom Filicia.
lection revolves.
    “We’ve made the decision,
                                   “ It’s so inconsiderate, it’s beyond                                             32             While these girls may not have the stature of Naomi or Kate just yet, there is
                                                                                                                                   a next generation of catwalkers who are in demand this season.
now we have to move on. That’s
                                   belief for them to do this and not even
it,” he said. “Logistically, it’s eas-                                                                              42             Beauty experts say it takes at least six months for the ultrahip, and up to a
                                                                                                                                   year for the masses, before runway beauty trends reach Jane Q. Public.
ier. [Moving to Thursday] gives
me a little more time to refine    recognize someone else is showing at
things, to look at things proper-
                                   the same time.                                                                                                                              EYE
ly in a wiser way.”
    According to a Calvin Klein
spokeswoman, the firm noti-
                                                                ”                          — James Coviello         10             That’s entertainment: Sex and the stars, celestial that is…The beat goes
                                                                                                                                   on…Ted Gibson sets up in the Flatiron District…Time to dine, Per Se.
fied 7th on Sixth and the
                                                                                                                                     To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is
Council of Fashion Designers of America of its in-        the tents to Thursday night at Gotham Hall at 7:30
tention to switch slots Thursday night. “We ab-           p.m., to try to avoid losing guests to Louis Vuitton’s
                                                                                                                              firstname.lastname@fairchildpub.com, using the individual's name.
solutely do not want to hurt or interfere with any-       opening night bash for its Fifth Avenue store.                   WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004
one else, so we addressed the schedule immedi-            Naomi Campbell, who will walk in his show and                                     FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
                                                                                                                     VOLUME 187, NO. 26. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional
ately,” she said.                                         whose public relations company is handling the            issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, March, April, September, October and December; and
    At the time, the only show confirmed for 4 p.m.       event, suggested changing the date, he said.                 three additional issues in August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7
with those organizations was Coviello, who was                While Miele is relieved, Coviello is still steamed.         West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr.,
                                                                                                                           Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-
not contacted by anyone within Calvin Klein.                  “It’s David versus Goliath. The giant against the             President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-
    In addition to Coviello, Kerrigan planned to show     guy with the slingshot,” Coviello said. “Work is           President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General
her Daryl K collection from 4-6 p.m. at the site of the   supposedly a community, but there’s no reflection             Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing
                                                                                                                     offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-
former Daryl K store on Bond Street here. The de-         of that.”                                                                                                                                   .O.
                                                                                                                              RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9.
signer recently reclaimed the space she had there a           Kal Ruttenstein, senior vice president of fashion                                                                                        .O.
                                                                                                                     POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008.
few years ago. Kerrigan is considering an adjustment      direction at Bloomingdale’s, called Coviello Friday        FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR
                                                                                                                              .O.
                                                                                                                      DAILY, P Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is
with that time, but had not decided at press time.        to say he would not be at the show for the first time,         required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new
    “I was thinking he could have asked me. I’m not       as planned, Coviello said. “That was a real bum-                   subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production
exactly thrilled about it,” she said. “To be honest, I    mer,” he said.                                               correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests,
                                                                                                                       please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild
thought about calling him, but I doubt he would               In the end, it could all be a case of fashion          magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully
even take my call and I don’t think he would even         karma. In the fall of 2002, Coviello was also one of        screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive
care. He’s probably in his recliner somewhere.”           10 American designers who scheduled their fashion                                                                   .O.
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                                                                                                                             WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED
    On the other hand, Kerrigan said, “I don’t think      shows for the last day of the London collections.                 MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND
you can take these things too seriously. I’m just re-     Some saw the move as a virtual act of treason              TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART
ally happy to have my shop back. Whatever hap-            against their London counterparts, who after               WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED
                                                                                                                           TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE
pens, happens.”                                           months of international debate, had relocated their                   ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID.
    The Fashion Calendar lists two other 4 p.m.           shows on the calendar.
 saks.com
 © saks fifth avenue 2004
1 800.429.0996




                                SPECIAL EDITION
                            WELL-EDITED STYLE AND HEADLINE-GRABBING
                                 COLLECTIONS MEAN IT’S ALWAYS
                                     FASHION WEEK AT SAKS.
8     WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004




Calendar                                                                                           All listings are current as of press time. Attendees are urged to confirm times and locations.


Saturday                                                                                                   West 41st Street.                                                                                 6 West 20th Street.
11 a.m.-3 p.m.: Hanuk, 77 White Street.                                                                    4 p.m.: Catherine Malandrino, 776 Sixth Avenue be-                                                6:30-8:30 p.m.: Salvatore Ferragamo (“Love Affair With
Noon: Dimmer/D’VRSI, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West                                                           tween 26th and 27th Streets.                                                                      Shoes” exhibit opening), 655 Fifth Avenue.
38th Street.                                                                                               5 p.m.: Nicole Miller, Studio Noir, Bryant Park.                                                  7 p.m.: BCBG Max Azria Collection, The Tent, Bryant
Noon: Patrik Rzepski, Dahesh Museum, 66 West 38th                                                          5 p.m.: Derek Lam, National Arts Club, 15 Gramercy                                                Park.
Street.                                                                                                    Park Square.                                                                                      7 p.m.: Marshall Leigh, Ripley-Grier Studios, 520 Eighth
1 p.m.: Raika D, The Atelier, Bryant Park.                                                                 5 p.m.: Lynn Park, Drive-In Studios, 443 West 18th                                                Avenue.
2 p.m.: Atil Kutoglu, Studio Noir, Bryant Park.                                                            Street.                                                                                           7 p.m.: World According To Jess, Show, 135 West 41st
2 p.m.: Cloak, 17 Little West 12th Street.                                                                 6 p.m.: Diane von Furstenberg, 389 West 12th Street.                                              Street.
3 p.m.: Gary Graham, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West 38th                                                      7 p.m.: Tuleh, The Promenade, Bryant Park.                                                        7:30 p.m.: As Four, 250 Hudson Street.
Street.                                                                                                    8 p.m.: Luca Luca/Luca Orlandi, The Tent, Bryant Park.                                            8 p.m.: Lloyd Klein, Studio Noir, Bryant Park.
3 p.m.: Rachel Comey, Joe’s Pub, 425 Lafayette Place at                                                    8-11 p.m.: Paco Rabanne (Golden Age Party), Jeffrey, 449                                          8 p.m.: Geova, The Culture Project, 45 Bleecker Street.
Astor.                                                                                                     West 14th Street.                                                                                 9 p.m.: Marc Jacobs, New York State Armor y,
4 p.m.: Rebecca Taylor, The Supper Club, 240 West 47th                                                     9 p.m.: Michael H., Don Hills, 511 Spring Street.                                                 68 Lexington Avenue.
Street.                                                                                                    9 p.m.: Christopher Deane, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West
5 p.m.: Matthew Earnest, Princeton Club, 15 West 43rd                                                      38th Street.                                                                                      Tuesday, Feb. 10
Street.                                                                                                    9 p.m.: Mackage, Atelier, Bryant Park.                                                            n/a: Bradley Bayou for Halston, 113 West 42nd Street.
5 p.m.: Pierrot, The Atelier, Bryant Park.                                                                                                                                                                   9 a.m.: Reem Acra, The Atelier, Bryant Park.
6 p.m.: Y & Kei, The Promenade, Bryant Park.                                                               Monday, Feb. 9                                                                                    9 a.m.-6 p.m.: O’Halloran Co., Horse Trailer, 41st Street
6 p.m.: Cat Swanson, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West 38th                                                      8-11 a.m.: Ellen Tracy, 575 Seventh Avenue.                                                       and Sixth Avenue.
Street.                                                                                                    8:30 a.m.-6 p.m.: Escada, Escada Boutique, 715 Fifth                                              9:30 a.m.: Gap (collection preview), 675 Sixth Avenue.
7 p.m.: Sass & Bide, Studio Noir, Bryant Park.                                                             Avenue.                                                                                           10 a.m.: Gustavo Arango, Studio Noir, Bryant Park.
8 p.m.: Mary Ping, 71 West 23rd Street.                                                                    9 a.m.: Dana Buchman, 1441 Broadway.                                                              10 a.m.: Luella Bartley, Altman Building, 135 West 18th
9 p.m.: Jeremy Scott, Crobar, 530 West 28th Street.                                                        9 a.m.: Paul Hardy, Studio Noir, Bryant Park.                                                     Street.
10 p.m.: Helen Yarmak, Avalon, 20th Street and Sixth                                                       9:30 a.m.: Zenobia (also 12:30 p.m. and 4:30 p.m.), Essex                                         11 a.m.: Douglas Hannant, The Promenade, Bryant
Avenue.                                                                                                    House Hotel.                                                                                      Park.
                                                                                                           10 a.m.: Monique Lhuillier, The Atelier, Bryant Park.                                             11 a.m.: Arlequin, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West 38th
Sunday, Feb. 8                                                                                             10 a.m.: Girls Rule/Dollhouse, Dollhouse, 1407                                                    Street.
8:30 a.m.-noon: Georgina Goodman, Soho House, 29-35                                                        Broadway.                                                                                         11 a.m.: Kate Spade & Jack Spade, 48 West 25th Street.
Ninth Avenue between 13th and 14th Streets.                                                                11 a.m.: Carolina Herrera, The Tent, Bryant Park.                                                 Noon: Bill Blass, The Tent, Bryant Park.
9 a.m.-9 p.m.: Amanda Wakely, Bryant Park.                                                                 Noon: Cynthia Steffe, Studio Noir, Bryant Park.                                                   1 p.m.: Chaiken, The Atelier, Bryant Park.
10 a.m.: Tracy Reese, Studio Noir, Bryant Park.                                                            Noon: VPL by Victoria Bartlett & Jeffrey Costello,                                                1 p.m.: Libertine, St Bart’s, 50th Street and Park
11 a.m.: Alice Roi, The Promenade, Bryant Park.                                                            Maritime Hotel (ballroom), 366 West 17th Street.                                                  Avenue.
Noon: Imitation of Christ, The Tent, Bryant Park.                                                          1 p.m.: Oscar de la Renta, The Promenade, Bryant Park.                                            2 p.m.: Maurice Malone, Studio Noir, Bryant Park.
noon-6 p.m.: Rubin Chapelle, 410 West 14th Street.                                                         2 p.m.: Jill Stuart, Astor Hall, New York Public Library.                                         2 p.m.: Charles Alexander, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West
1 p.m.: Marc Bouwer, The Atelier, Bryant Park.                                                             2 p.m.: PalmerJones, Atelier, Bryant Park.                                                        38th Street.
2 p.m.: Tess Giberson, Splashlight Studios, 535 West 35th                                                  3 p.m.: Betsey Johnson, Irving Plaza, 17 Irving Plaza.                                            3 p.m.: Marc by Marc Jacobs, New York. State Armory,
Street                                                                                                     4 p.m.: DKNY, Eyebeam, 540 West 21st Street.                                                      68 Lexington Avenue.
2 p.m.: Yigal Azrouel, The Altman Building, 135 West                                                       5 p.m.: Badgley Mischka, The Promenade, Bryant Park.                                              4 p.m.: Sebastian Pons, Gramercy Park Hotel, 2
18th Street.                                                                                               5 p.m.: Vena Cava, 289 10th Avenue.                                                               Lexington Avenue.
3 p.m.: Chanpaul, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West 38th                                                         6 p.m.: Pamella Roland, The Atelier, Bryant Park.                                                 5 p.m.: Paula Hian, The Atelier, Bryant Park.
Street.                                                                                                    6 p.m.: Ruffian, Beethoven Hall, 210 East 5th Street.                                             5 p.m.: Menichetti, 537 West 26th Street.
3 p.m.: Jack Mascharka (women’s and men’s), Show, 135                                                      6:30 p.m.: YM Magazine (teens in fashion), Morocco Loft,                                                                                Continued on page 34


                                                                                                                    NEW YORK — Fashion editors and buyers will not be cowed by the weather. Like the postman, neither rain, sleet, hail or snow


    Fashion Forecast                                                                                                — or all four combined — would ever stop them from teetering into Bryant Park for a show. Yet the weather this time of the
                                                                                                                    year isn’t exactly fashion-friendly, so despite the overwhelming desire to flaunt one’s spring wardrobe, it will be a challenging
                                                                                                                    endeavor. To aid those in doubt, WWD has provided its own fashion advisory. — Anamaria Wilson and Marc Karimzadeh




    TODAY                                        SUNDAY                                        MONDAY                                       TUESDAY                                      WEDNESDAY                    THURSDAY                      FRIDAY
    AM showers/Wind                              Mostly sunny/Wind                             Mostly sunny                                 Mostly cloudy                                Mostly cloudy                Partly cloudy                 Partly cloudy
    High: 44                                     High: 30                                      High: 40                                     High: 40                                     High: 37                     High: 33                      High: 31
    Low: 21                                      Low: 28                                       Low: 33                                      Low: 33                                      Low: 29                      Low: 22                       Low: 20
    Ease into fashion week                       Luckily it’s a light day on                   Clearly Monday is Ladies’                    With Narciso Rodriguez                       Hump day is owned by         Today it’s out with the old   With the big hitters
    with that vintage Burberry                   Sunday and there’s no                         Day. So while flitting from                  and Roberto Menichetti                       one of the reigning          and in with the new. A        rounding out the week,
    trench or Chanel’s oft-                      reason to break out your                      Carolina to Oscar in the                     headlining the day, it’s                     princes and two heir         band of young guns takes      it’s a chance to forage
    photographed version with                    most fabulous pieces.                         daytime, don full, knee-                     time to stick with the                       apparents of American        over the schedule:            through your closet for
    tweed trim. While they are                   But you do have to                            length skirts, shrunken                      basics. Calling all pencil                   sportswear—Michael           Francisco Costa’s second      your most classic pieces.
    probably not the warmest                     attend the Diane von                          cardigans and a                              skirts, shrunken                             Kors and the Proenza         collection for Calvin         Find an eclectic way to
    outerwear choice, you just                   Furstenberg show                              Lambertson Truex                             cardigans and stilettos.                     Schouler boys. Just when     Klein, Behnaz Sarafpour,      mix Edwardian looks and
    can’t be swayed into a                       tonight, which always                         shopper. It’s one of the                     The look: sleek,                             fashion week is              Peter Som, Jeffrey Chow,      jersey. Cashmere is de
    wool bouclé coat, so at                      draws a celebrity-studded                     sunniest days of the week,                   structured, tailored and                     beginning to bug,            Esteban Cortazar and Zac      rigueur at Ralph, while
    least layer up with Ce&Ce                    crowd. After a late lunch                     so brave the cold and opt                    body-conscious. Given                        transport to Kors’ spring    Posen. So think outside       black opaques are
    Ts, cashmere crewnecks                       at Pastis replete with an                     for a chunky heel with                       the dull weather, keep a                     vision of Capri with         the box. Mix young            perfect at Donna.
    and loads of pearls that                     aperitif or two, it’s off to                  colored sheers. But given                    pick-me-up in your bag,                      brights, stripes and well,   independents with a           Homebodies head back
    will pack a punch.                           DVF’s West Village lair.                      the Marc Jacobs show is                      either Vosges chocolates                     capris. If the sun just      major bag and a major         to your lairs for tea and a
    Footwear is always a                         You’ll want to look                           at night — and one of the                    or St. John’s Wort. But                      happens to peak              shoe like the Fendi           bath with salts. Party
    conundrum in bad                             downtown chic, but it’s                       biggest attractions of the                   spice up the muted                           through, slip on smoky       “Chef” bag and the YSL        girls head to dinner at
    weather, but if you                          going to be the coldest                       week to be sure — bring                      ensemble with a must-                        aviators. Modernize the      spectator pump. Keep          Soho House and finish it
    completely refuse to don                     day of the week, so opt                       an accessory along in your                   have “Theda” metallic                        look for fashion’s “It”      the adrenaline going by       all off at Bungalow 8.
    galoshes, then at least                      for a Fendi fur, worked                       shopper to make your                         drawstring Vuitton bag,                      boys with a slouchy V-       sending your driver to
    save your Christian Dior                     jeans and python                              ladylike look morph into                     which will bring you right                   neck and some long           Magnolia Bakery for
    satin heels for later in the                 stilettoes.                                   good-time grunge.                            into evening at the gala                     pearls, but for Matthew      cupcakes.
    week when the forecast                                                                                                                  for the new Louis Vuitton                    Williamson’s 8 p.m.
    calls for sun.                                                                                                                          store at 1 East 57th                         show add a dash of color
                                                                                                                                            Street.                                      in the form of a metallic
                                                                                                                                                                                         handbag and some
                                                                                                                                                                                         ethnic jewelry.

    *Weather forecasts provided by The Weather Channel. Since forecasts — like show times — are subject to change, tune in to The Weather Channel network or check weather.com for the latest information.
212.485.1755 www.strenesse.com
10   WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004




      Blaine Trump                   Aerin Lauder                                                                                                                Beyoncé                    Mischa Barton




                       Uma Thurman                                                                                                                                            Jessica Simpson




     Charlize Theron                 Cornelia Guest                                          Sarah Jessica Parker                                               Naomi Watts               Scarlett Johansson


                                                    Sarah Jessica Parker is irreplaceable in the front row, but all these ladies should be up there with her.




Front and Center
 eye
               HERE WE GO WITH ANOTHER SEASON OF THE EXPECTED FRONT-
               row brouhaha. Who’s coming, who’s not, who promised to come but
               won’t, who wants to go but can’t get in. It’s a public relations nightmare
            ® — especially since there’s only a finite number of Row 1 seats.
                                                                                                          a designer’s relevance and hip quotient. “If the right celebrity comes to your show, it’s
                                                                                                          an endorsement,” says British designer Matthew Williamson. “A pat on the back.” And
                                                                                                          he should know, with fans like Britney and Gwyneth.
                                                                                                              But will Scarlett, Mischa or any others — who, no doubt, are inundated with invites
                  But there’s at least one New Yorker who always has, and certainly                       — show? Will any of Hollywood’s current favorites — who also include Naomi, Uma
               now will get, priority seating at the tents — Sarah Jessica Parker, a.k.a.                 and Charlize — make it to New York this season? With the Oscars coming up at the
Carrie Bradshaw. Alas, the fall collections will bid a sweet adieu to the city’s favored                  end of the month — only two weeks after the American collections end — it doesn’t
and most fashion-forward daughter and her three comrades.                                                 bode well for those hoping to attract an A-lister or two. Then again, if any of the star-
    Now the question is: Who can fill their Jimmy Choos?                                                  lets wanted to solve their what-to-wear conundrum in person, the New York shows
    Oscar de la Renta muses, “I think at this particular time, there is no one who could                  offer the perfect solution.
really be a replacement for Sarah Jessica Parker. There won’t be for quite a while.”                          However, there could be some unexpected surprises to tempt the cameras —
    He, like Sass & Bide newcomers Heidi Middleton and Sarah-Jane Clarke, foresees                        Jeremy Scott is gunning for Tammy Faye Baker or Miss Piggy tonight, while the As
SJP being a fashion force for quite some time — basically because Sarah, Kim,                             Four crew extended an invite to Elizabeth Taylor.
Kristin and Cynthia have had such a strong run. On the small screen, it’s too early to                        So it’s left to the designers’ truest, bluest friends, the Ladies Who Lunch (and buy)
tell if “O.C.” and “The L Word” can pick up their torch — even if early signs point to-                   — as in Nina Griscom, Cornelia Guest, the Lauders and the Trainas, to name a few —
ward respective stars Mischa Barton and Jennifer Beals making inroads to all the                          to fill those seats. And no doubt their lovely faces will be seen and captured for gossip
“Who’s In” lists. They could cause a front-row stir if they popped up.                                    pages everywhere.
    At least for now. This is fashion, after all, and a designer has to strike when the                       But this is a democracy, of course, where all men, celebrities and socialites are
iron is hot — or, more like, when the girl is hot. For instance, in seasons past, Britney,                created equal, so Yellow Fever designer Jamison Ernest offers, “I think seating
Gwen or Beyoncé would cause a stampede of stilettos, while a lass like Jessica                            should be on a first-come, first-serve basis.” But he’s no fool, and has lined up Heidi
Simpson might get merely a passing nod. But five months (and a few cans of Chicken                        Klum, Gisele, Brooke Shields and Rachel Weisz to cheer him on from the front.
of the Sea) later, Simpson is the ambassador from the music world. Of course, you’d                           Here, WWD’s rundown of which women are hot designer catches this season —
still be wise to put Beyoncé in a great seat.                                                             which assumes that every designer already knows that if Bill Murray or Johnny Depp
    The same goes for cover girl ad nauseam Scarlett Johansson, who, with Barton, cur-                    make an appearance, usher them to the best seat in the house, too.
rently vies for the season’s “It” girl crown. Snagging her for the front row could solidify                                                                                            — Nandini D’Souza
                                                                                                                                                                                                               PHOTOS BY WIREIMAGE.COM




          Jennifer Beals                       Kate Bosworth                                      The Olsens                                  Maggie Gyllenhaal                        Mandy Moore

                                                                      Coming soon to the front row: this group of fashion-loving women.
                                                                                     Establish your own civiliztion. And dress for it.




THE     F O R U M                                S H O P S                          AT            C A E S A R S




      F O R   L E A S I N G   I N F O R M A T I O N   C O N T A C T   G A R Y   L E W I S                     3 17     2 6 3    7 9 2 6
12   WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004




New York Minutes                             MUSIC MAKERS
                                             Beyond the runways, a smattering of musical acts
                                             should also provide fashionable entertainment this
                                             week, beginning with Cat Power’s — aka Chan
                                             Marshall’s — gigs around town. Marshall’s haunting
                                             voice and tough chic style provide an antidote to all
                                             last season’s polish. Meanwhile, Dopo Yume, one of
                                             the city’s sexier boy bands, plays directly to the fashion
                                             crowd with their poppy, flirty rock ’n’ roll.
                                             This week will also see the release of two stylish
                                             albums: Courtney Love’s long-anticipated comeback,
                                             “America’s Sweetheart,” and Kylie Minogue’s “Body
                                             Language,” her ninth studio album, which is already
                                             climbing pop charts in the U.K.
                                             Cat Power: Feb. 13 at Northsix, Feb. 15-16 at the
                                             Knitting Factory.
                                             Northsix, 66 North Sixth Street, Brooklyn.
                                             Knitting Factory, 74 Leonard Street.
                                             Dopo Yume: Feb. 12 at Mercury Lounge, 217 E. Houston St.
                                                                                            — Lia Wong Far left: Dopo Yume on tour. Above: Kylie Minogue's new album and Chan Marshall, right.



 CLUB KIDS
Since it opened in December,
Marquee, Noah Tepperberg and
                                                                                                                          eye                                                                                                                                     ®



Jason Strauss’ new club in
West Chelsea, has been
mentioned 14 times in The
New York Post. Yet, just over a
week ago, The Daily News still
managed to mistake it for
another venue. “We were
confused with the Marriott
Marquis,” says a befuddled
Tepperberg. “They ran a picture
of Dennis Rodman and Lizzie
Grubman here with the caption
‘At the Marriott Marquis.’ ”
    It’s an easy mistake to
make, considering the generic
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  The Relaxation Room at Silk Day Spa.
choice of name — there’s even
a third Marquee on the Bowery
that’s home to mostly live                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       JUST RELAX
musical acts — but Tepperberg,        The scene at Marquee.                                                                                                                                                                                                      This week, New York can expect to see more beautiful people than
formerly of Suite 16 and                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         usual because hairstylist Ted Gibson, whose clients include Angelina
Conscience Point, says it was carefully calculated. “We went through                                                                                                                                                                                             Jolie and Frankie Rayder, just opened a salon in the Flatiron District.
about 15 names. We were going to call it Avenue, Linea, so many of                USERS GUIDE TO NYC’S MARQUEES                                                                                                                                                  He’ll work his magic in a relaxed downtown atmosphere, while still
them,” he says. “A name like Marquee is a descriptive name. I mean,            Marquee: 289 10th Avenue (between 26th                                                                                                                                            delivering the posh touches typically found in uptown salons.
there’s a huge marquee in front of our place. Plus, when you describe a        and 27th Streets)                                                                                                                                                                     Upon arrival, each guest is offered a hot cup of Aveda Relaxing Tea,
                                                cool club, the best night      Square footage: 6,500 square feet                                                                                                                                                 followed by a complimentary hand massage. Then she can choose
                                                there is their marquee         Opened: December 2003                                                                                                                                                             from an array of fragrant oils to be used during a scalp, neck and
                                                night.” And, it’s easy to say. Scene: Democratic free-for-all downstairs,                                                                                                                                        shoulder massage, which accompanies any hair service.
                                                                                                                              MINOGUE COURTESY OF CAPITOL RECORDS; DOPO YUME COURTESY OF THE BAND; CAT POWER BY EVA VERMANDEL; MARQUEE PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER




                                                “You know, it’s a one word,    VIPs in the upper mezzanine.                                                                                                                                                          Before leaving, everyone receives a “finishing touch” — a mini-
                                                two syllable name. It just     Hot night: Tuesday’s host Danny A corrals in                                                                                                                                      makeup application from one of Gibson’s artists. “All the girls just run
                                                rolls off your tongue.”        the fashion crowd.                                                                                                                                                                to the bathroom and redo their makeup anyway, so why don’t we just
                                                    Marquee will host 10       Celeb guests: Sean Penn, Uma Thurman,                                                                                                                                             do it for them?” he says. Color by Jason Backe, Gibson’s partner in
                                                fashion week events alone,     Andre Balazs, Hope Atherton, Patrick                                                                                                                                              business and life, is on the menu, as are facials and brow services,
                                                including tonight’s Cheap      Swayze.                                                                                                                                                                           with manicures and pedicures soon to follow.
                                                Date party, the Raf Simons                                                                                                                                                                                           Meanwhile, though Silk Day Spa looks like a high-end apothecary
                                                show and Patricia Field’s      Marquee: 356 Bowery (between Great                                                                                                                                                from the outside, inside awaits a subterranean refuge for weary show-
                                                birthday bash, but the space   Jones and 4th Streets)                                                                                                                                                            goers. After unwinding in the rock garden-style steam room or gauzy
                                                — once a garage — has still    Square footage: 1,400 square feet                                                                                                                                                 meditation room, visitors can experience a variety of body treatments
                                                not been put to the test.      Opened: February 2003                                                                                                                                                             that range from a basic massage to the shamelessly decadent Eastern
                                                Tepperberg and Strauss         Scene: Both sexes for nightly burlesque                                                                                                                                           Indulgence treatment — a 90-minute marathon of cleansing, buffing,
                                                designed the club so that a    performances, men only downstairs at gay                                                                                                                                          massaging and moisturizing — all administered by a doting staff.
                                                car could be driven into it    bar Slide.                                                                                                                                                                        Ted Gibson: 184 Fifth Avenue, 2nd floor, 212-633-6333
                                                with the idea of hosting       Hot night: Saturday’s High Life/Low Life                                                                                                                                          Silk Day Spa: 47 West 13th Street, 212-255-6457
                                                flashy events. “The            party for draq queen Sweetie’s cabaret act.                                                                                                                                                                                             — Jessica B. Matlin
                                                companies that are             Celeb guests: Marc Jacobs, Boy George,
                                                spending big money to          Janeane Garofalo.
                                                sponsor events are beverage
                                                companies and automobile       New York Marriott Marquis: 1535 Broadway
                                                companies,” Tepperberg         (between 45th and 46th Streets)
                                                says. “So we thought it’d      Square footage: over 100,000 square feet
                                                make sense to be able to fit   of banquet space.
Noah Tepperberg and Jason Strauss
                                                a car through the side door.”  Opened: 1985
    Tepperberg attributes Marquee’s popularity to the personal and             Scene: Business travelers and vacationing
professional relationships he and Strauss have developed growing up in         families mixed with boldface names attending
New York and through their event planning company, Strategic Event             Bette Midler’s annual “Hulaween” party.
Management and Marketing, Inc., which counts Reebok and Tommy                  Hot night: “Any night the theaters are on,
Hilfiger as clients. That, and the fact that the 6,500-square-foot space       we’re busy,” says a spokeswoman.
can accommodate tons of guests.                                                Celeb guests: Denise Richards, Sting,
    Though the initial buzz is bound to wear off, Tepperberg has faith         P. Diddy at various special events.
he can keep attracting the right crowd. “How you keep a place fresh is
by changing it constantly,” he explains. Eighty red lanterns hang
throughout the club for fashion week, and Tepperberg already has plans to build an outdoor patio in the back by spring.
Rearranging furniture, bringing in different seating and moving the DJ booth are also possible ways for him to spice
things up. But for now he’s banking on the reputation he hopes to build. “People will want to have their events here if
they see that successful events have been held here before,” he says. “You know, being consistent is also a draw.”                                                                                                                                                Ted Gibson's salon.
                                                                                                          — Emily Holt
                                                                                                                                                                                                           WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004               13

 STAR SIGNS
Stella Starsky and Quinn Cox, astrologists who go by the
moniker “Starsky & Cox” and will be holding court at Barneys
today to celebrate the publication of their new book,
“Sextrology: The Astrology of Sex and the Sexes” (Harper
Collins), come as a pair. Since they met at school in Grenoble,
France, and realized their mutual interest in astrology, they’ve
been inseparable. Well, sort of.
    “We’re on-again, off-again, mostly on,” says Starsky on the
phone from the West Village apartment she and Cox sort of share.
“We live mostly together, but we both need a lot of space. I’m a
Capricorn and Quinn’s a Libra and we’re perfectly in keeping with
that alignment. We very much share an intellectual spiritual
connectedness.”
    What separates Starsky & Cox from your average street
astrologist is their revolutionary belief that there are not just 12
astrological signs, but 24. “We’ve always maintained that men
and women of the same sign are actually different signs,”
explains Cox. And their book — which was generated from an
idea by their friend, Rob Weisbach, who had an affinity for their
columns in Teen People — splits each sign into masculine and
feminine. And it does it from both straight and gay perspectives
to detail not only the psychology of one’s horoscope, but how to
use it to reconcile relationships and sexual proclivities. (They also Stella Starsky and Quinn Cox
see private clients, many of whom are in the fashion industry.)
                                       The analysis can go from the deep to the superficial, but seems to have helped
                                   Starsky & Cox work out some kinks, so to speak. In the book, they write that the Capricorn
                                   woman likes “tweed, flannel suits” and “spectacles,” which, if you’ll notice, Cox is
                                   wearing in the accompanying photo here; while the Libra man appreciates “tall women,”
                                   “cleavage” and “alabaster skin.” According to Cox, Starsky is “a real statuesque lady.”
                                       And though the book suggests that certain pairings work better than others, “In
                                   the spirit of optimism, every combination can work and of course there’s so much
                                   more than sun signs,” reminds Starsky.
                                       Besides astrology, Starsky has worked as a fashion stylist and Cox as a journalist.
                                   The pair also studied acting with Uta Hagen. They’re at work on a live show — “You
                                   know, patter and songs” — and are pitching a scripted television series based on
                                   their lives. “By all accounts, we’ve lived pretty extraordinary lives. We have friends
                                   all over the world, and they always say, ‘You guys seem to be kissed by kismet,’ ”
                                   says Starsky. Among their pals from France is one J.K. Rowling, whom they knew
                                   pre-Harry Potter. “This is when we were buying each other groceries and rolling
cigarettes. She owes us a bag of groceries, I always say.”
    As for their big Barneys celebration, Cox says he’s “discouraging the paparazzi,” but that he’s “expecting the
Patrick McMullans of the world to come — only because they’re friends. Parker Posey’s supposed to come, John
Bartlett’s a close friend, though I think he’s hiking this weekend. We’re sort of old school characters,” he muses.
“Now that Florent’s open 24 hours again, we now have some place to go at 4 a.m. and that’s very old school. We’re
from the day when your neighbors upstairs and down didn’t know what Dolce meant. We’re from that late Eighties,
early Nineties, pre-mainstream fashion environment. We shun Starbucks, even though we see Graydon Carter going
there every day in our neighborhood.”
    As Cox continues his musing, Starsky steals the phone back, admonishing him, “Espresso in the afternoon is
sometimes not a good thing,” but just in time to offer some astrological advice for Fashion Week. “There’s a sense
right now of things spinning out of control, and what we suggest people do is be really relaxed and ready. It’s great
to be prepared, yes, but you don’t have to be on your guard,” she suggests.
    “Yes, you have to look fabulous, yes, get up early and yes, you have to stay out late,” continues Starsky. “But be
a little nicer to each other, smile a little bit, loosen up.” Because with all those out-of-towners, there are just so
many astrological possibilities.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 — Marshall Heyman


                                                                                                                                                                                         FINE DINING
                                                                                                                                                                                       There’s no better time to launch a chichi new restaurant in
                                                  SEXTROLOGY PHOTOS COURTESY OF HARPER COLLINS; PER SE PHOTO BY ELENA DORFMAN ; AHTILA: COURTESY KLEMENS GASSER & TANJA GRUNERT INC.




                                                                                                                                                                                       Manhattan than fashion week, as the arbiters of cool descend
                                                                                                                                                                                       upon the city and head to parties at locations often never to be
                                                                                                                                                                                       heard from again. But two new bôites seem destined to enter the
                                                                                                                                                                                       permanent annals of New York restaurant history.
                                                                                                                                                                                           At the Time Warner Center, Laura Cunningham has just opened
                                                                                                                                                                                       the exclusive 74-seat Per Se, the New York incarnation of Thomas
                                                                                                                                                                                       Keller’s fabled French Laundry in Napa Valley, which has been known
                                                                                                                                                                                       to make potential customers pull out all the stops for a reservation.
An image from Ahtila’s “The House.”                                                                                                                                                    They have wept and screamed and even bribed: With all the
                                                                                                                                                                                       diamonds, rare orchids, lavish invitations,
ART HAPPENS                                                                                                                                                                            crystal, furniture and flat-screen TVs she’s
Over in West Chelsea at the Marianne                                                                                                                                                   received, Cunningham could start an
Boesky Gallery, last year’s fashion star,                                                                                                                                              auction house out of the California
the Japanese pop artist Takashi                                                                                                                                                        restaurant’s storage room. (For the
Murakami, serves as curator for “Tokyo                                                                                                                                                 record, she divides the spoils with
Girls Bravo,” a presentation of work by                                                                                                                                                her staff.)
10 young female artists from Japan.                                                                                                                                                        And if the food at Per Se is
Through a wide range of mediums,                                                                                                                                                       anything like French Laundry’s,
including photography, painting and                                                                                                                                                    Cunningham will have to contend with a
handicrafts, their art celebrates                                                                                                                                                      legion of entitled New Yorkers. “One thing
“kawaii,” the bright-eyed, pop-fueled                                                                                                                                                  I’m not remotely affected by is
cutesiness that made Murakami’s work                                                                                                                                                   bullying,” she says. “I can either do         Dinner at Per Se.
for Louis Vuitton so fun.                                                                                                                                                              something or I can’t.”
    Meanwhile, at Klemens Gasser & Tanja                                                                                                                                                   Though Jean-Georges Vongerichten has opened a steak house
Grunert Inc., Finnish artist Eija-Liisa Ahtila                                                                                                                                         called Rare in the Time Warner Center, he’s also jazzing up Pan-
exhibits her impressive sculpture as well as                                                                                                                                           Asian food at Spice Market in the Meatpacking District in the
her eerie video, “The House,” and at                                                                                                                                                   same building as Soho House. There will be lots of satés, spring
Gagosian, Franz Gertsch shows a series of                                                                                                                                              and summer rolls and noodle dishes, with specific accents on
painstakingly painted images of Patti                                                                                                                                                  cuisine from Thailand, Vietnam and Singapore. “The decor is very
Smith, made from photos taken by the                                                                                                                                                   Indian,” says Lois Freedman, Jean-George’s business partner.
artist himself.                                                                                                                                                                        “The designer brought back artifacts that are hundreds of years
                                                                                                                                                                                       old, recovered from an old earthquake, and reassembled them.
“Tokyo Girls Bravo” at Marianne Boesky                                                                                                                                                 Wait until you see it.”
Gallery, 535 West 22nd Street.                                                                                                                                                             And among many sizzling evenings sure to happen there this
Eija-Liisa Ahtila: Klemens Gasser and Tanja                                                                                                                                            winter, it’s a sure bet Spice Market will host at least two before it
Grunert Inc. 524 West. 19th Street.                                                                                                                                                    opens later this week: Marc Jacobs will throw his after party there
Franz Gertsch: Gagosian Gallery, 555 West                                                                                                                                              on Monday, and Victoria’s Secret celebrates the publication of its
24th Street.                                                                                                                                                                           limited-edition book of provocative photography on Wednesday.
                                    — L.W.                                                                                                                                                SPICE MARKET: 29-35 Ninth Avenue; PER SE: 10 Columbus Circle
14   WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004




 Punks, Fifties Cuties a
 As the New York fall collections got under way, designers were creating collections inspired by everything from the heyday
 Perry Ellis: Patrick Robinson got it exactly right at Perry Ellis. In his second col-
 lection for the rejuvenated label, he again eschewed the traditional runway, in-         Perry Ellis                                                                         Kenneth Cole
 stead lining up 25 of the freshest-faced girls imaginable, their cheeks aglow with
 youth and the delightful work of Dick Page. The presentation provided the per-
 fect vehicle to flaunt Robinson’s two-pronged message: Here is a wealth of ap-
 pealing, seemingly eclectic pieces, all wrapped up in a highly focused aura of
 charm. Clearly, Robinson has sought to distinguish the Ellis presence within the
                                                                                                                         new
 better department by making it girlier and more prone to eccentricity than vir-
 tually any of its competitors. For fall, that means a retro, Fifties-centric attitude.
 “There’s a playfulness, but there’s also a refinement and a new elegance to it,”
 he said while taking visitors through the presentation. “I want to deliver a lot of
                                                                                                                          york
 fashion to the area — more than that customer is used to.”
    To wit, these gems stand out from their typically sportier competition: egg-
 shaped coats that could go Lucy-Ethel or full-on Marilyn depending upon a girl’s
 mood, sweaters set with jeweled buttons, skirts cut with debutant froth or Gal
 Friday discretion, impressive fake furs — coats, stoles, and even a cozy muff or
 two. The girly factor radiated from virtually every look, as Robinson acces-
 sorized with skinny rhinestone belts and lots of vintage sparkle — a flower
 brooch, anyone? — culled from countless eBay meanderings. As for another on-
 line find, a Perry Ellis printed scarf, Robinson had it recolored and reproduced
 to use discreetly, in a breezy skirt and as linings for coats and jackets — the per-
 fect way to express the Ellis legacy on his own terms.

 Kenneth Cole: “Are you putting us on?” Kenneth Cole certainly hopes so. And if
 that cheeky tag line seems a bit corny, the fall collection Cole showed on Friday
 morning was anything but. In it, he favored a kind of sophistication that put
 smart, practical clothes on the road to sobriety. In recent seasons, Cole has em-
 braced a core classicism. While, for spring, that was rendered with preppie pro-
 priety, here the jaunty motif gave way to a more reserved, more serious attitude.
 The first look out spoke volumes: a navy trenchcoat dressed down with flat
 brown boots. This led a lineup that often displayed a hint of editorial toughness
 — bomber and motocross jackets, tight pants tucked into boots, a mostly dark
 palette. Yet plenty of pieces — hooded coats, thick sweaters, paneled skirts —
 could easily be worked for greater versatility. This was a decidedly pulled-to-
 gether collection for Cole, one in which he paid considerable attention to
 evening. Here, his looks were pretty if not exciting, mostly dark, fluid dresses,
 sometimes worn under cozy, casual sweaters.
    Cole is determined to build a serious apparel business, and with its focus on
 juiced-up classics, he seems on the right track. Yet it is still a work in progress,
 and for the label to have a serious impact on the runway, he needs to fine-tune
 his message.

 Valentino R.E.D.: The name Valentino conjures up images of well-heeled Ladies
 who Lunch and sexy starlets poured into the most gorgeous of gowns. Well, hold
 on to your hats, folks, because the designer has served up something new, R.E.D.
 The collection, in its second season, was presented over dinner at Lot 61, to one
 of those ultra-cool, mixed crowds. Helen Schifter, Rena Sindi and Anh Duong
 sipped red cocktails alongside Hope Atherton, Nicky Hilton, the As Four crew
 and the graffiti collective IRAK, who “tagged” all of the invitations and gift bags.
     And the clothes? Well they had as much cool and swagger as the real people
 who modeled them. Oversized studs toughened up bombers in tweed or metallic
 leather. There were loads of terrific skinny jeans with metal “V” hardware on
 the back pockets, paired with lacey tops or shimmery second-skin Lurex looks.
 And for the girl who covets that famous Valentino red, a series of sexy little jer-
 sey dresses came in the house’s fabled hue.
                                                                                                 Channeling Norman Norell
                                                                                          Remember that line from “Field of Dreams”           moniker. Kaner found the clothes “pretty and
 Habitual: To say that denim is a tough and crowded market is an understatement.          that went: “If you build it, they will come?”       ladylike,” and thought that the strength was in
 But with their show on Wednesday night at the SoHo Grand, Habitual designers             Well, judging by the crowd at Norman Norell         the evening looks.
 Michael Colovos and Nicole Garrett proved that they’ve staked their rightful             New York’s Thursday night show, that’s what            Wrapping a collection around such a revered
 claim to a part of it and are also moving forward. “A lot of people know us as just      happened. It was a 10-exit collection from de-      name, however, sets the bar sky-high. Hughes
 jeans,” said Garrett. “They don’t realize there’s another side to Habitual.”             signer Patrick Michael Hughes and John B.           and Gomes are to be congratulated for their
    To be fair, there were more than a few pairs of jeans in the show — some as           Gomes, president                                                                      courage and for
 skinny as leggings and others forgivingly, but stylishly, wide-legged. But since         of the company,                                                                       some very pretty,
 Colovos and Garrett folded their fashion label Welkin two seasons ago, many of           and the Norell                                                                        adult clothes.
 the ideas and fabrications that started there have found a way into Habitual’s           name acted like a                                                                        The best in
 strong looks. Among these were fresh-looking, scoop-necked jersey dresses and            magnet, attracting                                                                    show were two
 tops layered over turtlenecks in a palette of dusty blues and purples, one tucked        some of the faith-                                                                    elegant coats,
 into a high-waisted black corduroy pencil skirt. Habitual’s usual approach to            ful and many of                                                                       one in gray cash-
 denim — shrunken jackets, bombers and minis that steer clear of being overly             the hopeful.                                                                          mere, the other,
 trendy — is expected. The back pockets, too, were refreshingly free of elaborate             Bobby Short, a                                                                    a black cash-
 branding, marked only with a tiny “H” on the top right.                                  friend of Hughes,                                                                     mere over a per-
                                                                                          for example,                                                                          fect little black
 GenArt: By now, the entire country is aware that overeating has dire conse-              brought along pals                                                                    dress. Evening,
 quences. So the folks at GenArt decided to serve a light course of three shows           Casey Ribicoff and                                                                    though, was too
 instead of the elaborate feast they usually offer. Of the three, easily the strongest    designer Adolfo.                                                                      sassy, with a
 was ChenPascual, designed by Maria Chen Pascual. The designer had shown for              Ribicoff, a former                                                                    see-through lace
 several seasons in London under her maiden name, Marie Chen, but, after mar-             client of the original Norell, said she liked an    column and an ill-fitting navy slipdress. The
 rying recently, changed her label and moved to New York. The punk aesthetic of           all-gray coat, turtleneck and slim skirt combo,     mermaid dresses and the prominence of the
 her show was obvious from the start, as the first model stomped down the run-            adding, “I knew Mr. Norell and the brilliance of    belt gave nods to Norell, but vague ones. The
 way in a pair of half-laced Doc Martens worn with a black leather look, raw-             his work. I was married in a beautiful linen        gowns simply didn’t have the fabulous slinky fit
 edged layers and shredded straps aflying. But Chen, who makes clothes for boys,          dress of his.”                                      the designer was known for. Some other looks
 too, still pulls punk off quite artfully, as was shown in her combinations of                Sidney Bennett, whose mother, Lillie Rubin,     — such as the jumper and blouse — suggested
 leather, denim, sequins, lace appliqués, printed silks and T-shirts and even a           carried Norell’s clothes in her 57th Street store   Claire McCardell instead.
 pretty, burnt-out fabric.                                                                40 years ago, recalled the designer’s master tai-      But Hughes shows promise. He has just put
    Oliver Christian Herold showed 17 evening looks with a few (emphasis on               loring and extraordinary fabrics. Bennett feels     himself in a rather difficult spot. Referencing
 few) winners, such as a fluttery, white chiffon gown with a light splatter of water-     that reviving the name was a “stroke of genius.”    Norell is not enough; channeling him is too
 colors on the hem. And the two designers at Ingwa; melero were so busy decid-            Joan Kaner, vice president and fashion director     tough, and it will take time to find out what
 ing how to punctuate their label, they forgot to look at a calendar before creat-        for Neiman Marcus, was also drawn by the            Hughes himself has to offer as a designer.
 ing their overly-groovy collection that clocked in circa 1972.
                                                                                                                WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004                  15




and Pretty Girls
y of the sock hop to the glory days of the Sex Pistols, with plenty in between.
                                                                                         Fashion Scoops
                                                                                         THE LATEST IN TRANSLATION: Could red-hot filmmaker Sofia
                                                                                         Coppola be trading preppy sportswear for powdered wigs?
                                                                                         According to sources in Paris, the Oscar-nominated director of
                                                                                         “Lost in Translation” is plotting to do her next film about Marie
                                                                                         Antoinette, the 18th-century French queen famous for her lavish
                                                                                         style and legendary excess. Word has it Coppola has optioned
                                                                                         Lady Antonia Fraser’s acclaimed biography, “Marie Antoinette:
            Valentino R.E.D.   Habitual               ChenPascual                        The Journey,” which revealed a rich, complex and
                                                      at GenArt                          misunderstood character. What’s more, Coppola recently took an
                                                                                         exhaustive, private tour of Versailles, gaining access to Marie
                                                                                         Antoinette’s private quarters, her recently restored theater and
                                                                                         other rarely seen artifacts.

                                                                                         HOW TO LOSE INVITES AND ALIENATE PEOPLE: Ernest Schmatolla,
                                                                                         the publisher of the fashion news Web site Lookonline.com,
                                                                                         apparently doesn’t care anymore that you can catch more flies
                                                                                         (and flacks) with honey rather than vinegar. He uncorked a
                                                                                         whole bottle of the latter on Thursday, firing off a fax to Paul
                                                                                         Wilmot complaining about how he and his site’s editors
                                                                                         are being excluded from this week’s Wilmot-produced
                                                                                         fashion shows.
                                                                                             “Paul Wilmot and Pierre Rougier are the only two agencies we
                                                                                         are currently having trouble with getting access to their client’s
                                                                                         shows,” he wrote. “Perhaps there is something more in common
                                                                                         with the two of them than just blacklisting us. It might make a
                                                                                         good story for our e-mail newsletter to 1,300 fashion editors,
                                                                                         writers, retailers and designers for us to do after the shows. A
                                                                                         good title might be “The Two Worst P.R. Firms” in New York.
                                                                                         Everyone agrees about Rougier, but Paul Wilmot, for us at least,
                                                                                         is a close second. As a matter of fact, you can bet on that
                                                                                         article going out.”
                                                                                             Schmatolla lamented to WWD that “getting into the show
                                                                                         sometimes has little to do with what your credentials are; the
                                                                                         stylist’s boyfriend gets in, but if you’re a real member of the
                                                                                         press, you don’t.” While he doesn’t take back his vitriol, he
                                                                                         would like to give a shout out to his two favorite firms: KCD and
                                                                                         LaForce & Stevens. (Which means he’s set with them for next
                                                                                         season.)

                                                                                         SHADY CHARACTERS: If you weren’t invited, don’t even think
                                                                                         about trying to get into Nesi Apparel’s Shady Ltd. party on Feb.
                                                                                         23 at the Venetian hotel in Las Vegas. Security will be tighter
                                                                                         than tight since Eminem is scheduled for a rare performance at
                                                                                         the event. According to sources, he will perform some of his new
                                                                                         music, which has yet to hit the airwaves. Other members of
                                                                                         Shady Records also will perform, and while exactly who those
                                                                                         performers would be is a closely guarded secret, rappers 50 Cent
                                                                                         and Obie Trice could be among them.

                                                                                         THE LOWDOWN: Rapper Rah Digga said she started paying
                                                                                         attention to fashion when Cindy Crawford hit the scene. “That’s
                                                                                         when I decided I’d either be a model or be in the music
                                                                                         business. I thought I was too tomboyish to be a model,” she said
                                                                                         before Thursday’s GenArt show at the Waldorf-Astoria.
                                                                                             Look for her at Proenza Schouler and Peter Som, before she
                                                                                         has to skip town for the NBA All-Star game.
                                                                                             Kathy and Rick Hilton were happy to make the trip to GenArt
                                                                                         — a short elevator ride from their apartment in the Waldorf
        Summer Dash                                                                      Towers. Their daughter, Paris, is steering clear of 7th on Sixth,
                                                                                         but her sister, Nicki, will hit the runway for Reika D. and a few
                                                                                         others. Nicki Hilton will also do some commentating for E! and
       While the fashion flock gets                                                      is still at work on her accessories line.
       itself geared up for fall, the
       good folks at Banana Republic                                                     SUPER STYLE: After making a dazzling comeback as a model,
       and Gap want to bask in the                                                       Linda Evangelista is now exploring other avenues in the fashion
       warmth of the summer sun. In                                                      business. During Paris Fashion Week in March, she will unveil a
       separate presentations, both                                                      new collaboration with designer Michel Klein. He is launching a
       proved that their recent                                                          new luxury ready-to-wear line, “Cher Michel Klein,” with
       decisions to focus on design-                                                     Evangelista acting as a stylist and spokesmodel.
       driven clothes made for fun
       and colorful fare.                                                                NIGHT WATCHMAN: Sleep deprivation isn’t slowing down Esteban
           Showing poolside at the                                                       Cortezar, but he did take a break from last-minute fittings to watch
       trendy SoHo House, Banana                                                         Jessica Miller model his dress in Friday’s Red Dress Collection.
       Republic channeled a Capri-                                                           “I love what I do. It’s fun to work to all hours of the night and
       bound Jackie O with strapless                                                     to not sleep and to not care,” he said. “It’s a privilege.”
                                                                                                                                                                 PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN AND ROBERT MITRA




       dresses, halters and
       drawstring skirts in oversized                                                    HAUTE CUISINE: Dressing for dinner is about to become a whole
       florals. And it tempered all                                                      lot easier. Chanel and star-studded chef Alain Ducasse are
       those cheery striped or                                                           teaming up to open a restaurant in Chanel’s upcoming
       paisley swimsuits with a                                                          megastore in the Ginza district of Tokyo. The eatery will be
       bright green trench or hot                                                        located on the top floor of the boutique, set to open in
       pink cardigan. Meanwhile,                                                         December. No word yet if hot “Coco” will be among the
       going with a more intimate                                                        beverages on Ducasse’s haute menu.
       showroom setting, Gap used
       its design and product                                                            WORDS FROM THE PEANUT GALLERY: Most of the front-row set
       development team to model a                                                       confine themselves to polite applause at the end of a show, but
       string of denim jackets with                                                      model Omahyra Mota had a more earnest fan at Friday’s Hong
       floral trims. Flirty tiered                                                       Kong Luxe show. Her five-year-old niece, Tracy, there with mom
       skirts were combined with an                                                      Patty, had a few words of praise during her aunt’s runway
                                                                         Looks from
       array of soft, sherbet-colored                                                    performance, softly calling out “Funny!” and “Ooh!” during the
                                                                            the Gap,
       tanks, layered one on top of                                                      show. Afterwards, the fashionista-in-ringlets pronounced the
       another — because, let’s face                                         far left,   entire experience “fun” and revealed she’d like to be a designer
       it, at these prices, a girl can’t                                 and Banana      one day. Watch out, Oscar.
       get enough of a good thing.                                          Republic
16   WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004




Birth of a Not
There’s no rhyme or reason to when or how inspiration will strike — and
                                         “Rich women who shop too much and chic couples in
                                         paparazzi pictures taken at airports, like Kate Moss and
                                         Johnny Depp, Natalie Wood and Robert Wagner, Jon
                                         Peters and Barbra Streisand, Cher and Greg Allman. The
                                         whole mood is definite indulgence, but very eclectic. The
                                         one thing you always see at the airport is the eclectic mix
                                         of the way people are dressed.” — Michael Kors




                                                              ▲
                                                                 “Linear silhouettes that sit naturally on
        “Twenty years                                         the body to reflect the architectural lines of
             of urban                                         the Art Nouveau period.” — Alice Roi

          decadence.”
           — Donna Karan
                          ▲




                                                     Victor Horta-designed lobby of the Hotel Tassel, Brussels.
                                                                                             WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004   17




ion
                                                             “For fall, there’s an
                                                               emphasis on fine
                                                                 tailoring with a
                                                                romantic edge.”
                                                                            — Ralph Lauren




                                                                                         ▲
that’s half the fun.

     Johnny Depp and Kate Moss, 1994.




                                        ▲




                                           “The
                                        shipwrecked,
                                        Victorian babe got
                                        rescued and
                                        continued life as she
                                        left off, in her
                                        wealthy, opulent
                                        lifestyle. Recently,
                                        she has met hard
                                        times. Doing
                                        anything to even
                                        keep warm, she
                                        wears her party
                                        dresses and minks at
                                        the breakfast table.”
                                        — Nicole Miller



                                            Sui’s Berard-inspired print from Ascher.




         “BJ rocks
         glamour with
         an edge.”
                         ▲




         — Betsey Johnson
                                                                                                                               HOTEL TASSEL: ART NOUVEAU/ABRAMS; DEPP: LAWRENCE SWARTZWALD/CORBIS SYGMA




                                                ▲ “Christian Berard — my color
                                                palette comes directly from looking at
                                                his illustrations. I am, in fact,
                                                reproducing two prints that he
                                                designed.” — Anna Sui
18                                                                                                                                             WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004




Birth of a Notion
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Juliette Greco, 1957




                                                                                                                                                                                                                     “Ta ke the Trans
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Europe Express to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Baden-Baden, then
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     sled naked under
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     furs at night in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Gsdatt. Have a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     hearty breakfast in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Appenzell. Go back
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     to Paris and enjoy
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     some jazz in Saint
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Germain des Pres
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     with Juliette Greco
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     and Bernadette
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Lafont, while
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     sipping wine with
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Chester Himes and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Jacques Tati.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     — Pierrot’s Pierre Carrilero




                                                                                                                                                                                              ▲“The new Pink Collection will be for the fabulous woman whose lifestyle
                                                                                                                                                                                              is defined by opulence and luxury.” — Baby Phat and Pink’s Kimora Lee Simmons
RUBINSTEIN: TIME LIFE PICTURES/GETTY IMAGES; GRECO: GJON MILLER/TIME LIFE PICTURES/GETTY IMAGES; SCHIELE: BRIDGEMAN ART LIBRARY/GETTY IMAGES




                                                                                                                                                                                                                       “Helena Rubinstein’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       glamorous lifestyle and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       fabulous art collection,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       including portraits of
                                                                                                                                                                  ▲




                                                                                                                                                                     “The mood is soft                                 her painted by the
                                                                                                                                                                    and sexy. New, young                               leading artists of her
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       time. This led me to
                                                                                                                                                                    proportions but still                              the concept of pieces
                                                                                                                                                                    very sophisticated.”                               worthy of a ‘Gilt
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Frame.’” — Tracy Reese
                                                                                                                                                                    — Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa

                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Helena Rubinstein, 1935




                                                                                                                                                                                                                “Central Park in the middle of Manhattan.
                                                                                                                                                                                                               Poetry in the Inner City. Heavy tweed on
                                                                                                                                                                                                               bare legs. Contrast.” — Catherine Malandrino
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              ▲
                                                                                                              WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004            19


                        “Rachel
                        Feinstein’s
                        floating my
   “Ruffian is the
                                                          More from New York
▲




illegitimate child of   boat these
Elsa Schiaparelli       days.”
and Yves Saint          — Marc Jacobs                     “Mary Poppins.” — Arlequin

Laurent, raised by                                        “An Austro-Turkish aristocrat vacationing in St. Moritz.” — Atil Kutoglu
Jean Cocteau.”                                            “This collection is about movement through time and place, the
— Ruffian                                                 passage of time. It’s inspired by a woman in the course of her day.”
                                                          — Behnaz Sarafpour

                                                          “Very decorative elements...and, of course, Morrissey.” — Benjamin Cho

                                                                                           “I have been reading the book, ‘The
                                                                                           Man Who Killed Rasputin.’ The fall
                                                                                           show will have a little bit of a
                                                                                           Russian feeling.” — Bill Blass’
                                                                                           Michael Vollbracht
                                                                                                                                                   Arlequin
                                                                                           “There are dark and mysterious
                                                                                           qualities to the fabrics and sensual
                                                                                           shapes.” — Charles Alexander

                                                                                           “The glamour of après-ski.” — Custo Barcelona’s Custo Dalmau

                                                                                           “I want a new balance of silhouette, new erogenous zones —
                                                                                           mid-thigh, décolletage.” —Daryl Kerrigan

                                                                                           “Vienna at the turn of the century.
                                                                                           Regal, guilded imperial splendor and      Egon Schiele’s “Seated
                                                                                           exotic spirit of the gypsies; the         Woman With Bent Knee,”
                                                                                           modern appeal of Klimt and Schiele,       1917.▼
                                                                  Bill
                                                                                           and the influence of the Ottomans
                                                                  Blass
                                                                                           and Istanbul.” — Derek Lam

                                                          “The hero/heroine of epic science fiction and fantasy illustration
                                                          books from the Seventies and Eighties.” — Dimmer/D'versi

                                                          “Chic, rich, swank and VIP only.” — Douglas Hannant

                                                          “Fall is about discovering the mystery of a woman. She shines with
                                                          beauty and elegance, but she is mysterious and likes to leave more
                                                          up to the imagination.” — Esteban Cortazar

                                                          “I took inspiration from the serenity of the beach, incorporating the
                                                          tones of sand and color of the ocean.” — Fusha’s Marie Claudinette Jean

                                                          “Gypsies.” — Gary Graham                                                   Derek Lam

                                                          “Women and men hanging out in the piazzas of Sicily wearing beautiful sweaters over skirts
                                                          and dresses in luxurious fabrics.” — Generra’s Tony Melillo

                                                                                          “Architect Adolf Loos’s austere approach to aesthetic
                                                                                          excellence.” — Gustavo Arango

                                                                                          “Nature was my inspiration. I was drawn to the magic of the
                                                                                          fall foliage of New England and the elegance of the White
                                                                                          Birch trees in Aspen.” — Halston’s Bradley Bayou

                                                                                          “Asia is blooming — lot’s of spice colors, electric blues, greens
                                                                                          and big peonies prints.” — Han Feng

                                                                                          “I’m still inspired by the glamour and elegance of the Twenties
                                                                                          and Thirties. The collection is the juxtaposition of fluid and
                                                                                          structure.” — Jeffrey Chow

                                                                                          “Team Spirit.” — Jeremy Scott
                                                                                                                                           ▲




                                                                                                                                             Jeffrey
 “Inspiration                                                                                                                                 Chow
came from                                                 ▲ Hang Feng
European ski
resorts like
St. Moritz
and Gstaad.
                              ▲“The idea of Jean
It’s a look,                  Harlow reappearing in
an attitude.”                 modern-day
                              Manhattan. Old
                 ▲




— Carolina Herrera            Hollywood rendered
                              with a rock ’n’ roll                                ▲ Jeremy
                              edge.” — BCBG’s Max Azria                               Scott
20   WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004

X



Birth of a Notion                                                                                                                       Oscar Wilde, 1882.




                                                       “True English
                                                       chic, the
                                                       eccentricity of
                                                       the Seventies,
                                                       images of
                                                       England that
                                                       inspire me today.”
                                                                       ▲




                                                       — Cynthia Steffe



                                                                                                   ▲ “Not your usual tea party with white gloves and
                                                                                                   ditsy print dresses. Instead, men’s wear tailoring,
                                                                                                   pearls in all the wrong places and spiked chamomile.
                                                                                                   Why do you think they call it ‘high tea?’” — Cynthia
                                                                                                   Rowley
                                                                                                   ▲




                                                                                                     “A carnival
                                                                                                   where the
                                                                                                   glamour of the
                                                                                                   rootin’ tootin’
                                                                                                   ringmaster,
                                                                                                   Dolly Parton,
                                                                                                   leads the show.”
                                                                                                   — Heatherette
                                                                                                       ▲




                                                                                                          “Photographs
                                                                                                        by Slim Aarons
                                                                                                        blew me away.
                                                                                                                                                             SLIM AARONS: HULTON ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES; OSCAR WILDE: N.SARONY/CORBIS




                                                                                                        All the ladies,
                                                                                                        past and present,
                                                                                                        who represent
                                                                                                        true glamour and
                                                                                                        elegance.”
                                                                                                        — Dana Buchman




                                                                                                                               ▲ “Something sexy and
                                                                                                                               spontaneous, like
                                                                   C.Z. Guest, left, and friend,                               throwing a coat over a
                                                                   shot by Slim Aarons, 1955.                                  nightgown. Think ‘Now
       ▲ “Layers of colors...layers of
                                                                                                                               Voyager’ meets
       textures...structured and easy...equipped and
                                                                                                                               ‘Butterfield 8.’”
       yet ready for life.” — Diane von Furstenberg
                                                                                                                               — Chaiken’s Jeff Mahshie
               view
women’s wear men’s wear accessories
          february 2004
             new york
                                                                                   EXHIBITIONS
FEBRUARY / MARCH 2004                                                              MUSÉE GALLIÉRA
                                                                                   À la mode 1750-2000
                                                                                   MUSÉE DE LA MODE ET DU TEXTILE
FASHION SHOWS                              CULTURAL EVENTS IN PARIS                Elsa Schiaparelli
JOURNÉES DU PRÊT-À-PORTER
DES COUTURIERS ET DES CRÉATEURS            BALLETS                                 MAISON EUROPÉENNE
DE MODE                                    OPÉRA NATIONAL DE PARIS BASTILLE        DE LA PHOTOGRAPHIE
2004/2005 Fall-Winter Collection           Les Etoiles de Chine                    Irving Penn
March 2-10
                                           THÉÂTRE DE LA VILLE                     PALAIS DE TOKYO
For information, please contact :          Ririe Woodbury dance company            Playlist
Fédération Française de la Couture,
du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers            THÉÂTRE DU CHATELET                     MUSÉE MAILLOL
et des Créateurs de Mode                   Compagnie Fosse                         Botero
Tel. : +33 (0)1 42 66 64 44
www.modeaparis.com                         OPÉRA                                   CENTRE GEORGES POMPIDOU
                                           OPÉRA NATIONAL DE PARIS BASTILLE        Sophie Calle
                                           Otello by Giuseppe Verdi                Joan Miro
TRADE SHOWS                                La Traviata by Giuseppe Verdi
                                                                                   MUSÉE DU LUXEMBOURG
WORKSHOP                                                                           Botticelli
March 4-8                                  THÉÂTRE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES
Cercle Républicain & Hôtel Régina          Semele by Georg Friedrich Haendel
                                           L’Occasione fa il ladro by Gioachino    For further information, please contact :
Tel : +33 (0)1 44 54 10 90                                                         The Office de Tourisme de Paris
                                           Rossini
                                                                                   www.paris-touristoffice.com
SHOW ROOM HORTENSIA DE HUTTEN
March 4-8                                  CLASSICAL CONCERT
Espace Richelieu                           THÉÂTRE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES
Tel : +33 (0)1 44 74 60 21                 L’enfant et les sortilèges by Maurice   FRENCH FASHION IN AMERICA
                                           Ravel                                   Major french fashion and textile
TRANOÏ                                                                             companies are also present at american
March 4-8                                  JAZZ/ROCK/POP                           trade shows
Espace Austerlitz                          ZÉNITH
Tel : +33 (0)1 53 01 84 93                 Air                                     ATELIER
                                                                                   February 28-March 1
ATMOSPHERE D’HIVER                         OLYMPIA                                 Rihga Royal Hotel, New York
March 5-8                                  Diana Ross                              Tel : (505) 982 9112
Jardin des Tuileries & Hôtel Saint James   Etienne Daho
Tel : +33 (0)1 44 94 70 00                                                         LINGERIE AMERICAS
                                           BERCY                                   February 29-March 2
PREMIÈRE CLASSE                            The Offspring                           135 West 18th Street, New York
March 5-8                                                                          Tel : (212) 618 0092
Jardin des Tuileries-Terrasse
des Feuillants                                                                     FASHION COTERIE
Tel : +33 (0)1 40 13 74 70                                                         February 29-March 2
                                                                                   The Show Piers 12th Avenue
PARIS SUR MODE                                                                     & 55th Street , New York
March 5-8                                                                          Tel : (212) 759 8055
Jardin des Tuileries-Terrasse
des Feuillants                                                                     CHILDREN’S CLUB
Tel : +33 (0)1 49 09 60 00                                                         March 7-9
                                                                                   The Javits Center, New York
                                                                                   Tel : (212) 759 8055
24                                                                                                                       WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004




Birth of a Notion                                                                                                                                    François Boucher’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          “Accessible luxury for America
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          with motorcycle chic as the
                                                                                                                                                    “Pastoral Scene,” 1740.                                                                               backdrop. H Hilfiger is our
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          first entrance into the dressier
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          side for women who are in dire
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          need of great taste at
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          affordable prices.”
                                                                                                                                                                               “Strength, confidence                                                       — Tommy Hilfiger on H Hilfiger




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  ▲
                                                                                                                                                                               and passion for
                                                                                                                                                                               adventure. Inspired by
                                                                                                                                                                               the female heroes of the
                                                                                                                                                                               past, this is for the Lara
                                                                                                                                                                               Croft of today.”




                                                                                                                                                                                                     ▲
                                                                                                                                                                               — Luca Luca’s Luca Orlandi




                                                                                                                                               ▲ “Artists from the rococo era, like François Boucher,
                                                                                                                                               to more modern artists, like John Currin. It evokes
                                                                                                                                               an atmosphere of sparkle and gold.” — Nanette Lepore
                                                                                                                                               ▲




                                                                                                                                                 “The divine
                                                                                                                                               mother is the
                                                                                                                                               sacred feminine
                                                                                                                                               in all forms —
                                                                                                                                               Kali, Durga and                                          “Hitchcock’s vision of relationships between
                                                                                                                                               Saraswati.”                                                      a man and a woman; Francis Bacon’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                     twisting of perception, and the mysticism of the
                                                                                                                                               — Circle’s Mara Hoffman                                               ▲
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Scottish lochs.” — Roland Mouret

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Cary Grant
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        and Eva Marie
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Saint in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            “North by                                      “We were
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Northwest,”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   inspired by a lot
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               1959.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   of our friends at
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   some wonderful
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         parties this
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   winter. We want
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       to pile on the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   most glamorous
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        pieces in an
                                                                                                                          “Contrast,                                                                                                                                                      offhanded,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        casual way.”
                                                                                                                          luxury, fine                                                                                                                                               — Badgley Mischka
                                                                                                                          detail, rich




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   ▲
OLGA ORLOVA: THE STATE RUSSIAN MUSEUM/CORBIS; TREE: JACK ROBINSON/CONDE NAST ARCHIVE/CORBIS; CARY GRANT: JOHN SPRINGER




                                                                                                                          color. And
                                                                                                                          having fun.”
COLLECTION/CORBIS; SHANGHAI: ELAINE KWONG/SHYA-LA-LA WORKSHOP LTD.; BOUCHER: ALEXANDER BURKATOWSKI/CORBIS




                                                                                                                          — Phi’s Susan Dell
                                                                                                                                         ▲




                                                                                                                                                                                                                ▲ “Inspired by mythical images
                                                                                                                                                                                                                of model Penelope Tree, fall is a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                romantic journey back to nature.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                Slouchy Seventies Manhattan
                                                                                                                                                                                                                tailoring meets traditional
                                                                                                                                                                                                                huntsman.” — Matthew Williamson
                                                                                                                           WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004                25




                                                                      More from New York
                                                                                                           Milly
                                                                                                                       “Casual luxury and refinement.” — Lela Rose

                                                                                                                       “The allure of ‘Red-Carpet’ glamour. Its sophisti-
                                                                                                                       cated, sexy and slim silhouettes.” — Marc Bouwer

                                                                                                                       “There ain’t no horse that can’t be rode and
                                                                                                                       there ain’t no man that can’t be throwed.”
                                                                                                                        — Matthew Earnest

                                                                                                                       “A night out in New York.” — Michael Soheil

                                                                                                                       “Feeling in the mood to dress up and have fun
                                                                                                                       with glamour.” — Milly

                                                                      “Sophistication reigns supreme, as the 1930s are revisited.
                                                                      Visions of dark, smokey, silver screen sirens fill the room.” —
                                                                      Monique Lhuillier

                                                                      “I still believe in a flirty fullness on an elongated silhouette.”
                                                                      — Oscar de la Renta

                                                                      “We mix sexy silks, raggy tweeds, vintage metal beaded velvets
                                                                      and tatty embroidered jacquards.” — Palmer Jones

                                                                      “A woman who no longer sits idly for lunch, but rather travels
                                                                      the world on a regular basis.” — Pamella Roland

                                                                      “Reckless glamour. Off-center but glamorous heroines inspired
                                                                      by ‘Grey Gardens’ and ‘Suddenly Last Summer.’” — Peter Som

                                                                      “Traditional propriety is subverted by a Baroque opulence.
                                                                                                         Contrasts are important, in
                                                                                                         volume, in color, in texture.
                                                                                                         Extreme luxury is pared down
                                                                                                         and the everyday is elevated.”
                                                                                                         — Proenza Schouler

                                                                                                          “Preservation, polytheism, nativity, spirituality, hallucina-
                                                                                                          tion, toiled land, heavy clouds.” — Rachel Comey
                                    “Portrait of Olga
                                   Orlova,” by Valentin                                                   “Rich colors originating in nature, jewels, Milky Way, enchanted
                                   Serov, 1911.                                                           dreams, easy pretty, love being a girl.” — Rebecca Taylor

                                                                                                          “The look is ‘Thoroughly Modern Millie’ meets Gwen Stefani.”
                                                                                                          — Reem Acra

                                                                                                          “The traditionally elegant, almost nostalgic feel of the 1940s
                                                                                                          contrasted with the blasé attitude of the modern-day rebel.”
                                                                                                          — Sass & Bide

                                                                                                          “ ‘The Taylor’ by Giovanni Battista Moroni.” — Sebastion Pons
                                                                       Reem Acra
                                                                                                          “Jersey goes Techno 20s in flapperesque tops and dresses
                                                                      in a pretty array of lingerie colors.” — T21’s Elie Tahari
Shanghai
                                                                      “Less is not more — more is more.” — Tuleh’s Bryan Bradley
▲“The lights, energy and                                              “The ‘Tale of the Seasons,’ a very old Japanese book, whose intriguing illustrations depict tranquil
glamour of Shanghai at night.”                                        and mysterious scenes from ancient folklore, particularly an image of four Japanese prints layered
                                                                      and held together with a single piece of fabric.” — Twinkle’s Wenlan
— Vivienne Tam
                                                                      “VPL is an expression of the body’s geography, a necessity to dissect and measure its components
                                                                      in order to create the perfect lineage.” — VPL

                                                                                                                           “Cultural and human chemistry, resulting in
                                  ▲ “Leo Tolstoy’s ‘Anna Karenina.’                                                        a collection that has eclectic references and
                                                                                                                           influences from my collaborators — artists
                                  A deconstructed aristocrat,
                                                                                                                           and gallery owners, architects and hoteliers,
                                  reconstructed into something                                                             curators,
                                  more edgy. Combing, reworking                                                            writers and historians each
                                  and cutting, we present ready-to-                                                        of whom have created one piece with me for
                                  wear, fur and Cartier jewelry to                                                         the collection.” — Yeohlee Teng
                                  reintroduce luxury in the most
                                  unexpected way.” — J. Mendel                                                             “Contrast and contradiction, like red berries
                                                                                                                           in white snow.” — Yigal Azrouel

                                                                                                                           “Rene Gruau’s illustrations. We fell in love
                           ▲




                              “Urban chic: a new look for                                                                  with a woman’s aura underneath a veil.”
                           the new millennium. Refined and                                                                  — Y&Kei
                           sculptural.” — Zac Posen
                                                                                                                           “Catherine Deneuve, Jean Moreau, Marie-
                                                                                                                           Helene de Rothschild, Josephine Baker,
                                                                                                                           Victoire de Castellane and Audrey Tautou,
                                                                                                                           along with the grandiose decorative art of
                                                                                                                           Louis XV at Versailles.” — Zang Toi
                                                                                                                         ▲




                                                                                                                             Zang Toi
26   WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004




The Kids Stay in the Picture
THE KIDS ARE HAVING THEIR SAY ON SA.                                                          unofficially, working in their parents’ businesses. They’re offering de-
  If fashion is forever young, several top fashion designers have turned                      sign advice, expanding the businesses through Web sites and licensing,
to a secret weapon in keeping up with the trends — their children.                            or just keeping their parents hip.
Offspring of the likes of Donna Karan, Oscar de la Renta, Carolina                               Here, what some of the designers — and their kids — have to say
Herrera, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren are, either officially or                            about keeping it all in the family. — Lisa Lockwood

DONNA KARAN                                                                                                                    Gabby prefers to freelance and doesn’t want a full-
“Sometimes she likes to be my mother, she’s always                                                                 Gabby    time position at the company. “I never wanted to be
worried about me,” says Donna Karan, describing her                                                                Karan    connected too intensely. I always wanted the freedom to
relationship with her 29-year-old daughter, Gabby Karan                                                          DeFelice   explore other venues,” she says.
DeFelice.                                                                                                            and       As for their individual style differences, Karan
    Born eight days before Anne Klein died — which                                                                Donna     explains that Gabby tends to be more conservative than
thrust Karan into the spotlight as chief designer at the                                                           Karan    she is, “but a little bit freer.
company Anne Klein — Gabby continues to be her mom’s                                                                           “She has an effortless way of putting things together. She
best friend and biggest supporter. Virtually inseparable,                                                                   definitely inspires me. I want to wear her clothes when I go
Gabby attends every single one of her mother’s fashion                                                                      away, and she wants to wear mine. Gabby is girlier than I
shows, accompanies her on European and Asian                                                                                am. I’m a little tougher. She’s much finer. She likes to wear
shopping trips, and shares Caribbean vacations and yoga                                                                     printed dresses and is more feminine,” explains Karan.
retreats with her.                                                                                                             Gabby says she loves wearing her mother’s dressy
    “She was the influence for DKNY,” says Karan. “She                                                                      dresses, but sometimes she’ll drive her mother crazy
and her friends wanted to wear my clothes, and                                                                              when she accessorizes them with combat boots or
undoubtedly they couldn’t afford them. It was her                                                                           sneakers. “I’ll wear them with sneaks and she’ll say,
generation that I was definitely looking at. She was                                                                        ‘You’re crazy.’ It’s so tangible and fun, and so easy to play
constantly in my closet.”                                                                                                   with. It’s not so serious.”
    “We have inspired each other,” adds Gabby. “I’ve                                                                           In addition to sharing a love of fashion, they both are into
traveled with her to Tibet, Bhutan and Nepal, and we’ve                                                                     music, whether it’s rock, reggae or Tibetan. “We love going to
shopped and explored culture, which is very stimulating                                                                     concerts. We love going to see Sting perform, and my mom
for fashion. I’ve introduced her to a lot of younger people                                                                 dresses him, or going to a Tibet House concert,” says Gabby.
and she’s introduced me to her friends. It’s a really nice                                                                     While Karan’s line has always represented the sleek,
friendship.”                                                                                                                sophisticated Manhattanite, the designer remembers the
    Karan relies on Gabby for her opinions about the                                                                        time when Gabby was 13 years old and needed a dress,
collection, as well as other more private matters.                                                                          and Karan couldn’t provide it from her collection.
    “I’m always asking her, ‘What do you think?’ It’s very                                                                      “She wanted a real girlie dress, with a crinoline and
important for me to see what she thinks,” says Karan. “And                                                                  tulle, and I called Kal Ruttenstein at Bloomingdale’s, and
if she doesn’t like something going into the collection, she                                                                told him that my daughter wants a prom dress! It was so
tells me. She’s very blunt about it. She’s probably my                                                                      different from what she was seeing [in my line]. You have
toughest critic. She’ll say, ‘I think it’s great but it doesn’t                                                             to allow them to experience their own thing,” says Karan.
look like you.’ She’s very sharp. Sometimes she has a                                                                          Ironically, when Gabby was growing up in Manhattan,
narrow view of who I am. They [kids] don’t like change.”                                                                    she hated accompanying her mother to flea markets, one
    And, she’ll even get personal.                                                                                          of Karan’s favorite pastimes. “I used to drag her to the
    “She told me she doesn’t like my short hair,” admits                                                                    flea markets, and now she can’t wait,” says Karan. “We
Karan. “She said, ‘Mom, men like long hair!’ ”                                                                              partner a lot together.”
    While Gabby doesn’t have an official job at Karan’s                                                                        Now that Gabby has become a mother herself — her
firm, whose worldwide global volume at retail is $2                                                                         daughter is eight months old — Karan says she’s
                                                                  JAMES DEVANEY/WIREIMAGE




billion, including licensees, she spends a lot of her time                                                                  experiencing a role reversal. “I’ll be out partying with
there, hanging out, sometimes styling the DKNY store                                                                        her, and Gabby will say she has to go home and feed the
windows and writing for “Woman to Woman,” Karan’s                                                                           baby,” says Karan. She’s constantly trying to convince
magazine sent to top customers.                                                                                             Gabby to join the firm full-time, but says she understands
     “I’m very proud and happy for my mom. She’s good at                                                                    that Gabby is busy “raising my granddaughter.”
it. I love to go into the office and watch her work. She’s                                                                     But what’s the one venture Gabby said she’d love to do
so passionate about it,” says Gabby.                                                                                        with her mom one day? Design baby clothes.




TOMMY HILFIGER                                     Ally and Tommy Hilfiger                                                                 with raw edges a long time ago that inspired
Tommy Hilfiger relies on his 18-year-old                                                                                                   us. She puts different appliqués on her jeans.
daughter, Ally, to be his personal trend guru.                                                                                             She customizes a lot of her clothes.”
   “In the young women’s business, she is                                                                                                      Ally will go to vintage stores and check
the target customer,” the designer says.                                                                                                   out all the nooks and crannies. “She travels
“She knows the fits, the trends, the brands                                                                                                and she shops and she was brought up with
and the colors. We have a team of very                                                                                                     it,” says Hilfiger. Ally’s mother, Susie, is
talented designers who are in their mid- to                                                                                                also a designer and owns Best & Co., a
late-20s and 30s, and although they’re very                                                                                                children’s shop in Greenwich, Conn.
talented and we pick up on the trends,                                                                                                         “Susie has great taste,” says Hilfiger
being able to pick up the trends from the                                                                                                  about his ex-wife.
specific target is very valuable.”                                                                                                             Hilfiger says Ally also is “right in the
   Hilfiger says Ally has been giving him                                                                                                  groove with music,” and influenced his
advice for years. “She’s always given me her                                                                                               decision to sign Beyoncé Knowles as the
opinion. Now it’s more relevant.”                                                                                                          face of the company’s upcoming fragrance.
   While Ally isn’t officially employed by the                                                                                             “She was into Britney [Spears] at a very
company, which last year generated $1.89                                                                                                   young age,” he adds.
billion in wholesale volume, she drops by                                                                                                                       ,
                                                                                                                                               Like reality TV Ally also likes reality
regularly to offer her viewpoint. This past                                                                                                advertising. She wants Tommy’s ads to be
season, she starred in her own reality show                                                                                                very real, not too staged and not phony.
        ,
on MTV “Rich Girls,” and in one scene, she                                                                                                     In fact, she has appeared in a Tommy
                                                                                                                                      QUEEN/WIREIMAGE




appears in the Hilfiger showroom critiquing                                                                                                Jeans ad campaign with other famous
the line before a roomful of designers and                                                                                                 progeny, such as Elizabeth Jagger,
executives. Tommy Hilfiger says MTV has                                                                                                    Theodora and Alexandra Richards and
asked her to do another series. She’s also                                                                                                 Lauren Bush.
looking into attending art school.                                                                                                             But Hilfiger says his daughter
   Ally was traveling and unavailable to be interviewed for this story.                       recognizes the parameters of her role. “I think the other designers are open to
   According to the designer, his daughter wore low-rise jeans before the company really      hearing from someone who is the ultimate target,” says Hilfiger, who noted that in
capitalized on them, not to mention other current hot items. “She was into this whole         real life, Ally prefers to give her opinions directly to him. “She’s very confident in her
California look with military-inspired bottoms and cargoes and truck driver hats a long       beliefs. She can spot trends in advance. Her mentality is trained for that. She doesn’t
time ago. She has a knack for putting things together. She was also cutting her own clothes   want to work for the company. She doesn’t want to step on other people’s toes.”
                                                                                                                                                                     WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004         27

OSCAR DE LA RENTA                                                                                                                                              million. De la Renta says that the business has
It’s a family affair at Oscar.                                                                                                                                 seen sales increases in excess of 20 percent a
    Nine years ago, de la Renta hired his                                                                                                                      year over the past five years, and profits have
stepdaughter, Eliza Reed Bolen, as vice                                                                                                                        grown even more than that. “We needed to
president of licensing. Then last year Eliza’s                                                                                                                 bring more people into the business.”
husband, Alex Bolen, came on board as chief                                                                                                                       The designer notes that the company has
executive officer.                                                                                                                                             been able to retain its customer base while
    “My biggest worry is that Eliza is going to                                                                                                                simultaneously attracting a younger crowd. His
fire me,” quips de la Renta.                                                                                                                                   business at Bergdorf Goodman, for example, has
    Eliza, who began her career working for an                                                                                                                 tripled in the last six or seven years. Two years
environmental company, says de la Renta had                                                                                                                    ago, de la Renta was Bergdorf ’s 15th largest
been asking her to join the firm for a long time                                                                                                               overall vendor (including ready-to-wear, jewelry
“but up until 22, my head wasn’t there.” She                                                                                                                   and accessories) and today it is its seventh
had planned to go to law school, but never got                                                                                                                 largest, says Eliza. One of the company’s
the applications out.                                                                                                                                          initiatives is to capture a younger customer with
    Alex was in the banking world. After he and                                                                                                                broader price points on the rtw line.
his partner sold their company, de la Renta                                                                                                                       Alex notes that accessories, home and
asked him to pitch in temporarily at the                                                                                                                       opening freestanding stores are currently top
fashion house. He stayed about six months                                                                                                                      priorities for the firm. The company is now
without pay and de la Renta was “finally able                                                                                                                  looking for retail space in Los Angeles and
to convince him” to take a full-time, paying job                                                                                                               Miami and will open its first freestanding
with the house.                                                                                                                                                store at La Rev in Las Vegas in spring 2005.
    “I had been informally helping Oscar with                                                                                                                     So what’s it like working with de la Renta?
corporate matters, and when Jeff [Aronsson,                                                                                                                       For starters, says Alex, he always listens.
former ceo] left, he asked me to come. I enjoyed                                                                                                               “He’s never dismissive...not that he does
it so much, I decided to stay,” says Alex, noting                                                                                                              everything we ask, but he’s always interested.”
that Marvin Traub once told him there’s no one                                                                                                                 he adds.
like de la Renta who has “a better combination                                                                                                                     “Everybody is entitled to express his
of creative visionary and a business sense.”                                                                                                                   opinion,” says de la Renta. “I think of myself as
    One of Alex’s key roles is to help de la                                                                                                                   a team player. Ultimately, I’m making the
Renta strategize about the growth of the                                                                                                                       decisions. [But] my studio gets upset if the
business. In fact, de la Renta struck a deal                                                                                                                   cleaning man is in the studio, and I’ll ask his
with Kellwood Co. this week for a moderate                                                                                                                     opinion.”
sportswear line, O Oscar, as reported.                                                                                                                            And how do the other employees feel about
    As for her contribution to the firm, Eliza                                                                                                                 having two of his family members in the
says, “Honestly, I don’t add anything to the                                                                                                                   business? “The biggest attraction to working
collection. With me coming, I brought a new                                                                                                                    here is it’s a family business. But not
young crew of people into the company. When I                                                                                                                  genetically so,” replies de la Renta. “I spend
got here, everyone had been here for a while,                                                                                                                  most of my day sitting in my studio. I don’t
and now there’s a whole team of young people                                                                                                                   have a desk. I like to work with people. If
in public relations, licensing and in the studio.”                                                                                                             anyone has a problem, I want that person to
    Eliza explains that she first had to clean up                                                                                                              come to me. It’s a flat organization.”
the licensing program, “and a lot of licensees                                                                                                                    De la Renta couldn’t be happier having
got terminated.” She then coordinated the                                                                                                                      Alex as his ceo, and he believes the former
labels, tags and looks. “Things got tighter and                                                                                                                banker has a lot to contribute to the business,
coordinated,” she says. Currently, the licensing                                                                                                               including aesthetically.
                                                     PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO




portfolio has 23 agreements — for everything                                                                                                                      “Alex has a great eye,” says de la Renta. “In a
from nightgowns to bridal to furniture — and                                                                                                                   way, there’s much aesthetically he can bring into
the firm expects to have about 30 by year-end.                                                                                                                 the business that being in the kind of business he
     Presently, the Oscar de la Renta collection                                                                                   Alex and Eliza Reed Bolen   was in, something was lacking. It’s been super.”
business generates wholesale volume of $50                                                                                            and Oscar de la Renta.      “And seeing the numbers increase,” adds
million, and sales of licensed products top $650                                                                                                               Alex. “I haven’t lost my eye for that.”




CAROLINA HERRERA                                                            mom usually win out?
Having another Carolina Herrera (Jr.) and her                                   “I think so,” says Herrera.                                                                                    Patricia Lansing
youngest daughter, Patricia, on board has helped                                One of the areas in which Herrera will be                                                                  and Carolina Herrera
the designer expand her business globally.                                  expanding is freestanding retail stores. The
   “They came because they wanted to. I didn’t                              company has 22 boutiques under the CH label in
force it,” says Carolina Herrera, discussing two of                         Europe, and is about to open three stores in Las
her four daughters.                                                         Vegas, Manhasset, N.Y., and Short Hills, N.J.
   Patricia Lansing is a designer in the ready-to-                              In Europe, Carolina
                                                                                                            JEFF VESPA/WIREIMAGE




wear division, while Carolina Jr., who lives in                             Herrera Jr. is the face of
Spain and is engaged to former bullfighter and                              the CH line. She is also
now bull ranch owner Miguel Báez, works in the                              about to launch her own
fragrance division and is also the face of CH                               fragrance, Carolina.
Carolina Herrera, the diffusion line that’s                                     “It’s about both of us,”
distributed exclusively through freestanding                                says Herrera, noting that
boutiques. (Her eldest two daughters aren’t                                 they both represent the
involved in the business.)                                                  line. “It’s about the
   “I didn’t want to push any of the girls to work                          collection for a mom and a
with me. Carolina came five years ago as a                                  daughter. It represents the
summer job to do the perfumes,” says Herrera.                               whole world of CH,” she
Her daughter worked with the design team and                                adds.
Baron & Baron, the ad agency here, on the bottle,                               Does Patricia mind that
scent and advertising.                                                      Carolina Jr. has a whole
   Patricia joined last April and works in design                           ready-made business with
and advertising and is currently working on a                               her nameplate on it?
design book with Assouline about her mother. She                                “I don’t mind, not at all.”
majored in art history and English as an                                        Herrera believes that
undergraduate at Brown University and after                                 fashion is always evolving
college went to work as a fashion editor at Vanity                          and one’s eye changes.
Fair. “We didn’t want to feel like our mother had to                        “The most important thing
have us [in the company],” says Patricia, adding                            is to design for the time
they each wanted to do their own thing for a while.                         that we’re living in. You
   Herrera says she never talked about the                                  can’t do a total retro
business, which has an estimated retail volume of                           collection. You can make it
$600 million, including licensees, at the dinner                            look younger with the shoes
table, nor did she take work home with her.                                 and the jewelry,” she says.
   “We talked about other things, but not the                                   Patricia adds that she
business,” adds Patricia. “While I was in college, I                        can go into her mother’s         Carolina Herrera Jr.
never thought I’d go into the business. I liked it,                         closet and pick out an outfit
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN




but I never thought about it as a career.”                                  and make it look completely different from the
   Herrera likes Patricia’s taste and what she                              way her mother would wear it.
adds to the design process. “It’s about softness,                               And that’s not only because she’s nine months
modernity. It’s about a fresh eye and fresh ideas.                          pregnant. Patricia’s due date happens to be the
Mixing colors and the details,” she says of her                             same day as her mother’s fashion show. And what
daughter.                                                                   does Patricia plan to name her baby daughter?
   But when they disagree on design ideas, does                                 “Carolina.”
28   WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004




                                                       John Varvatos
Opportunity Knocks
By Eric Wilson                                                                                wear now, keeping his silhouettes loose and masculine, rather than skinny and androg-
                                                                                              ynous. His are clothes for the average guy, one just like Varvatos, who has two kids and
FOR A DESIGNER AS CALM AND COLLECTED AS JOHN VARVATOS — A BIG FISH                            lives uptown.
in that littler pond of men’s wear — picking this moment to jump into the ocean of               “On one end of the spectrum, I’m very laid-back, but on another, I’m very…well,
women’s wear seems about as well calculated as swimming naked with sharks.                    someone told me yesterday over drinks that I’m driven, but driven is a funny word,”
   The 49-year-old designer was already a seasoned hand, with experience at Polo              Varvatos said. “I’m not looking to conquer anything, but I am passionate. I love what I
Ralph Lauren and CK Calvin Klein, before he launched his signature label in 2000 in           do and I’ll never put out a collection where I just let a team of people do it and I put my
partnership with Nautica Enterprises, and he shot to fame in men’s wear right off the         name on it.”
bat. With his down-the-middle formula of classic haberdashery spiced up with a minute            Approaching his first women’s collection has freed up Varvatos to experiment a bit
dose of fashion-forwardness, Varvatos won two consecutive men’s wear awards from the          more with fashion than he has in the past. Women are already among his biggest cus-
Council of Fashion Designers of America, beginning with his very first collection. He         tomers, putting their boyfriends or spouses into snugly port-colored velvet blazers and
seemed to be on the fast track for expansion, one that already encompasses four stores        cashmere sweaters, and frequently asking Varvatos when he would design for them.
across the country and prime real estate in the best department stores.                       But it was a key point to the designer that whatever he came up with for women would
   The designer has continued to rack up a series of accolades, as he’s dressed every         not be simply a modification of how he designs for men. It should have its own look, he
top male celebrity from Tom Cruise to the future Mr. Demi Moore.                                                theorized, yet one that still reflects his signature.
Along the way, he’s been pulling a soft tease about trying his hand at                                              “The handwriting is unmistakably John Varvatos,” he said. “But it
designing for their wives. But instead of throwing a few women’s                                                doesn’t look like men’s wear at all. There’s been very little influence
looks into a collection here and there, or testing them in his stores,
as is the norm, Varvatos is launching a full line during his runway
show on Wednesday.
                                                                                      never
                                                                             “We’re be the
                                                                             going to
                                                                                                                from the men’s collection, other than all the little details and the types
                                                                                                                of fabric, which is something that we spend so much time on. I’ve
                                                                                                                missed the freedom of working on women’s wear. The walls are much
   The launch comes at the same time that his company’s very future is,                                         closer in men’s.”
to put it lightly, in limbo.
   Last July, Nautica was acquired by VF Corp. for $586 million, a         JLo brand, and by                        Varvatos began conceiving the collection, originally planned to debut
                                                                                                                only in his signature stores, while sitting in front of his Mercer Street
deal in which the mass apparel giant was looking to attain Nautica’s                                            store last summer, watching women walk through SoHo. These women,
retail omnipresence in men’s, but not necessarily Varvatos’ designer       that I don’t mean                    creative thinkers “with the freedom to mix it up,” became his inspira-
cachet or the expense of running a high-end business. Within weeks,                                             tion, leading Varvatos to call the collection “The Streets of SoHo.” As he
the publicly traded companies announced that VF would be looking
at offers for the Varvatos brand and later acknowledged that the
                                                                          like her collection,                  will show both his men’s and women’s collections on the same runway, it
                                                                                                                is interesting to note that in the end, Varvatos felt his men’s wear was
designer himself — along with Harvey Saunders, the former chief                                                 more influenced by the women’s design, rather than vice versa.
executive of Nautica — is a potential buyer.                                 but what she’s                         He described the collection as “feminine and sexy, but with mixed
   VF also has since said it will stop producing Nautica’s women’s                                              elements of rustic and refined, as well as modern and vintage.”
apparel, just as Varvatos is getting into the game.
   During an interview at his Chelsea headquarters, the designer
                                                                            going to wear to                    Varvatos developed several fabrics and paisley prints for the season,
                                                                                                                as well as interesting finishes for silk charmeuse and shearling made
expressed no concerns that the dealings to separate Varvatos from                                               to look somewhat vintage, but with a contemporary silhouette. He also
                                                                             the Oscars.
VF would have an impact on his plans to expand his collection,
which, sources estimate, has a wholesale volume in men’s of $30 mil-
lion a year. Within a few seasons, Varvatos expects women’s wear will
                                                                                          —         ”           focused on the details, much as he is known for in men’s. There are
                                                                                                                           linings,
                                                                                              John Varvatos unusualrickrackantique chain hooks along the necklines and embroi-
                                                                                                                dery or             sewn into a jacket’s lining — all details that will be
be even bigger than his men’s wear.                                                                             invisible to a runway audience.
   “This is really more about the changing complexion of what we’re                                                 “It’s not something obvious,” Varvatos said. “But this gives us our
doing here,” Varvatos said. “I think it would work better as an independent company.          stamp. I make beautiful, simple things that are not overdesigned. They are very wear-
And it’s a pivotal point for me in a designer industry where women’s really drives the        able, but have a fashion edge to them, it’s a modern edge with a vintage twist that gives
bus. I’m at the point where I want to take this company to the next level.”                   us our own look, and whether you like it or not, that’s the most important thing. The
   The launch of Varvatos women’s wear is widely anticipated, with enthusiastic sup-          biggest compliment to me is for someone to say that it looks very John Varvatos.”
port from retailers like Barneys New York and Saks Fifth Avenue, where Varvatos is the           Although he may be somewhat modest in describing his impact, the red carpet
top-performing designer vendor on its men’s floor. His success is largely a result of an      would tell a different story, where Adrien Brody, Brad Pitt, Bruce Springsteen and
aesthetic once described in The Financial Times as being “for men with a low fashion          Brendan Fraser go on about Varvatos as much as they do Armani or Zegna. His
threshold.” He describes his formula as “interesting but wearable.” Most designers            women’s wear, with a strong component for evening, is likely to follow suit. Much of his
wouldn’t want to be described in terms quite so dull, but Varvatos is a designer who          celebrity following stemmed from the 2002 opening of a signature store in West
knows what actually sells — blazers, textured knits and softly constructed suits where        Hollywood, which will be refitted to accommodate his women’s wear. (In New York,
the fashion is to be found in the details — lessons the Detroit native learned upon his       Varvatos is looking for a location to open a women’s-only store, probably in SoHo and
arrival in the back rooms of Polo Ralph Lauren in 1983.                                       definitely downtown.)
   In 1990, Varvatos became head of men’s wear design at Calvin Klein Collection and later       “We’re never going to be the JLo brand, and by that I don’t mean like her collection,
started the CK brand. He was recruited back to Polo in 1994 as corporate senior vice pres-    but what she’s going to wear to the Oscars,” Varvatos said. “There’s a lot of beautiful
ident in charge of men’s wear design for all Ralph Lauren brands, and stayed there until      women out there who want to look sexy, feminine and new at the same time. We were
forming his company with Nautica. In the process, he secured for a contract with several      going to do just a small, tight collection for our own stores, and then it just evolved and
protections in case Nautica ever changed ownership, ensuring him a payout worth as            turned into a monster. It’s definitely a bigger part of what we thought we would be.”
much as $50 million, according to financial filings. He also is launching a men’s fragrance      Much of the collection has already been edited out of the designer’s show — for both
in the next few weeks with Zirh International, followed by a skin care line in about 500      efficiency’s sake and to make a coherent story — but Varvatos said he will maintain an
doors in the coming months. Women’s beauty products are not likely to be far behind.          equal focus on his men’s designs, which he feels have improved significantly as a result.
   With the addition of a women’s collection, Varvatos could quickly become a credi-             “I’m so comfortable with my handwriting in men’s wear,” he said. “I know where
ble lifestyle brand rivaling those of Klein and Lauren. Despite his experience at those       I’ve been and what I’m not, what I’m happy with and what I’m most proud of. I’m look-
houses, the designer stands in contrast to his former employers largely in that the most      ing at women’s as a breath of fresh air. I needed to be more open in men’s, as well.
intense thing about Varvatos is his calmness, which is reflected in his clothes. His style    There’s no reason to compromise right now. While we have this opportunity in front of
is the extreme opposite of someone like Hedi Slimane, another big name in men’s               us, we’re going to make it work.”
WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004   29

                       John Varvatos




                                  PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER
30   WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004




First In Show
                                                                                                                                                         Every season boasts
                                                                                                                                                         its newcomers.
                                                                                                                                                         Fall’s runway
                                                                                                                                                         rookies range from
                                                                                                                                                         former circus
                                                                                                                                                         performers to a
                                                                                                                                                         mogul wife. Here, a
                                                                                                                                                         look at who’s new.

MICHAEL H.                                                                                     Sales: She’s a retail darling, selling at Bergdorf Goodman, Bloomingdale’s,
Provenance: Michael Houghton, 42, achieved a modicum of fame as Ally Hilfiger and              Nordstrom, Ultimo in Chicago and other boutiques across the country. She hopes the
Jaime Gleicher’s fashion-loving pal on MTV’s reality show “Rich Girls.” He’s tight             show will not only boost domestic sales but garner her international attention.
with the Hilfigers, whom he calls his “spiritual family,” and even lent a designing            What to expect: Twenty charming looks in a charming setting — The Inn at Irving
hand for the first Red Label collection in 1999.                                               Place.
Sales: This is his first collection.                                                           First frocks: Rose dressed the Bush twins for their dad’s inauguration ceremony in
What to expect: Twenty-five men’s and women’s looks inspired by Keith Richards’                2000. Barbara even interned there in summer 2002. Other dedicated fans include so-
louche look, and the possibility of everyone’s favorite Rich Girl, Ally, on the runway.        cialite interior designer Celerie Kemble and much of the young New York social set.
Bonus track: Houghton’s party band, Michael H. and the Bashers, featuring Andy Hilfiger
on bass, will play post-show.                                                                  PHI
                                                                                               Provenance: Phi (pronounced ‘fee’) is the new label from Susan Dell, 40, the wife of
RUFFIAN                                                                                        Dell Computer Co. founder Michael Dell, who scrapped her five-year-old eponymous
Provenance: Inspired by the Elizabethan ruff, Brian Wolk, 30, started Ruffian, a line          label last year. Phi’s creative director is Tim Gardner, who has held top design posi-
consisting solely of accessories such as collars and belts in luxe fabrics in 1998. In         tions at Calvin Klein and Jil Sander
2001, Wolk partnered with Claude Morais, 35, a Paris-based stylist whom he met in              Sales: Not yet, but Dell shares her husband’s marketing savvy as well as his ambition.
New York. This is their first season of ready-to-wear.                                         What to expect: With Phi, Dell takes an edgier and more sophisticated direction.
Sales: The accessories sell at Barneys and Takashimaya in New York, at Liberty and             First frocks, part two: While fellow Texan and first-timer Lela Rose dressed the Bush
Harvey Nichols in London and at Bon Marche in Paris, no doubt providing an in for              twins for the ceremony, Dell designed their dresses for the Inaugural Ball.
the ready-to-wear.
What to expect: Thirteen lucky looks ripe for a cocktail party. According to Wolk              MILLY
they’re “very Yves Saint Laurent meets Elsa Schiaparelli under the tutelage of Jean            Provenance: Michelle Smith, 30, launched her girlishly preppy collection in spring
Cocteau.” Ooh la la!                                                                           2001. The FIT grad interned at Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior before
                                                                                               going it alone.
MENICHETTI                                                                                     Sales: Milly sells in about 200 stores worldwide, including Bergdorf Goodman,
Provenance: Far from newbie status, Roberto
Menichetti, 37, has designed for Cerruti most
                                                    Dimmer/D’Vrsi
recently, before which he headed the Jil                                                                               Shannon
Sander design team for five years and then                                                                             Stokes
launched Burberry Prorsum.
Sales: This is the launch collection, but WWD
reported last week that Menichetti’s business
plan includes hitting 100 retail stores world-
wide for his first season and, over the next five
years, opening 50 freestanding boutiques.                                             Yellow
What to expect: Menichetti takes a less-is-                                           Fever
more approach to fashion, concentrating on                                                                                                                           Michael Houghton
subtle features such as innovative textiles
and the minutiae of tailoring.
X-treme designer: He’s an avid windsurfer and
                                                                                                                                                       Libertine
also races in the Paris-Dakar motocross rally.

SHANNON STOKES
Provenance: Beating out more than 600 appli-        Ruffian’s
cants, Stokes won Perrier’s Bubbling Under          Brian
award, a collaboration with Metro TV’s Full         Wolk and
Frontal Fashion, in 2002. In addition to win-       Claude
ning $10,000, he also scored a job at furrier       Morais.
Cassin, where he still works. Perrier signed
on to sponsor Stokes this season as well.
Sales: This is his first show.
What to expect: About 30 looks with an evening
slant, including Cassin furs.

SASS & BIDE
Provenance: Australians Sarah-Jane Clarke,
29, and Heidi Middleton, 31, started their
high-end denim line in 2000, branching into a
full collection in 2001. Af ter turns in
Australia’s Fashion Week and the last two seasons in London, they’re ready to take on          Neiman Marcus and Scoop.
the Big Apple.                                                                                 What to expect: From 35 to 40 glamorous looks to dress up in. “I got so tired of the
Sales: S&B boasts an enviable list of retailers — Barneys, Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth          whole jeans-and-Sherpa boots thing,” says Smith.
Avenue, Kirna Zabete and Louis Boston, among many others.                                      “Sex” appeal: Smith’s creations turn up frequently on “Sex and the City” girlish prep-
What to expect: “It’s a mix between the 1940s and modern-day punk,” says Clarke.               ster Charlotte.
Fun fact: Clarke and Middleton helped spread the super low-rise denim message
Down Under.                                                                                    ARLEQUIN
                                                                                               Provenance: Sometimes the truth is stranger than fiction. Arlequin was created by for-
DIMMER/D’VRSI                                                                                  mer circus performers May Nogoy, 31, Marcelle Seelig, 24, Alex Lugo, 24, and Stiofan
Provenance: Designers Leila Azar-Kia, 28, and Travis Wells, 31, both graduated from            O’Curried, 31, who met in San Francisco. They made a foray into fashion designing cos-
Parsons in 1998 after steering their career tracks from medicine and law, respectively,        tumes for performances. They relocated to Buenos Aires almost two years ago.
to fashion. This is their fifth women’s collection and third men’s collection.                 Sales: No retail sales yet, but Arlequin has created costumes for Britney Spears,
Sales: Private clients so far. The designers hope the show will spur retail momentum.          Alicia Keys and Courtney Love.
What to expect: Twenty tailored, structured looks each for both women and men.                 What to expect: Thirty-five looks inspired by the quartet’s collection of antique para-
                                                                                               sols and lingerie.
LIBERTINE
Provenance: Cindy Greene, 35, and Johnson Hartig, 33, started their collection of re-          YELLOW FEVER
worked castoffs in September 2001. Despite residing on different coasts and working            Provenance: Brooklyn native Jamison Ernest was recording with his band Yellow
in a seemingly saturated medium, Greene and Hartig have managed to build a solid               Fever when an injury to his vocal chords sidelined that project. So he started making
label and recently won $20,000 from Ecco Domani.                                               T-shirts, later moving on to pants.
Sales: Retail jackpot! Maxfield in Los Angeles, Barneys in New York, Joyce in Hong             Sales: New York’s Atrium and Bagutta Life. Canadian department store Holt Renfrew
Kong, Colette in Paris and Harvey Nichols in London.                                           put in an order for spring.
What to expect: Between 50 and 60 looks combined of women’s and men’s that continue            What to expect: Bold-faced names from back to front. His show will be styled by
Libertine’s slightly twisted, artsy approach to classic trenches, khakis and button-downs.     Francesca Versace (daughter of Santo), “directed” by screenwriter/director James
Star style: Fans include Emanuel Ungaro designer Giambattista Valli, Brad Pitt and             Toback and will feature Lola Schnabel’s artwork, curated by Vito Schnabel. Expect some
Mick Jagger.                                                                                   more bold-faced names (Gisele, Heidi Klum and Rachel Weisz) in the front row, too.
                                                                                               Diddy knows best: Ernest is thinking big. “I’m going to try and follow the route that
LELA ROSE                                                                                      Puffy did,” he says. His first move toward synergy takes the form of mini CDs attached
Provenance: Texas native Lela Rose has been quietly building a solid business with             to the tags of the pieces he produced for Holt Renfrew.
her colorful, delicate dress-based collections since 1996.                                                                                                         — Meenal Mistry
       MORE COMFORT               MORE PERFORMANCE                   MORE NATURAL
       EXPERIENCE MORE . EXPERIENCE TENCEL.®




                                                                                                         TENCEL® is the registered trademark of Tencel Ltd. for lyocell.




TENCEL Inc., 111 West 40 Street, New York, NY 10018 T: (212) 944 7400 F: (212) 944 7406 www.tencel.com
32   WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004




      Who’s That Girl?      NEW YORK — It’s not all about the designers. What would the collections be without the models?
                                   Here’s some of the newer names in heavy rotation this fall. By David Yassky


                            Gemma Ward/IMG                                                                               Anne Marie/New York Model Management

                            Stats: Age 16; 5’10; blonde hair; blue eyes; first New York                                  Stats: Age 18; 5’8 1/2; dark blonde hair; green eyes; first New
                            runway season; Prada and Miu Miu runway exclusive last                                       York runway season; Prada and Miu Miu runway exclusive last
                            season in Milan                                                                              Milan season
                            Hometown: Perth, Australia                                                                   Hometown: Bergen, Netherlands
                            Name dropping: Prada spring 2004 campaign; Italian Vogue                                     Name dropping: French Vogue with Craig McDean; Harper’s
                            with Steven Meisel; Vogue with Annie Leibovitz; British Vogue                                Bazaar with Patrick Demarchelier and Patrick Shaw; British
                            with Nick Knight; W with Paolo Roversi; Harper’s Bazaar with                                 Vogue with Paolo Roversi; Teen Vogue with Thomas Schenk and
                            Patrick Demarchelier                                                                         Raymond Meier
                            Runway schedule: Confirmed for Carolina Herrera, John                                        Runway schedule: Walked Perry Ellis; confirmed for Marc by
                            Varvatos, Zac Posen, Luella Bartley, Oscar de la Renta, Jill                                 Marc Jacobs, DKNY, Milly and Nanette Lepore
                            Stuart and Behnaz Sarafpour                                                                  Secret weapon: Couldn’t be sweeter.
                            Secret weapon: The girl’s got class and “the sophistication of
                            Lady Di,” according to agent Phil McGowan.


                            Heather Marks/Supreme                                                                        Gerren Taylor/New York Model Management

                            Stats: Age 16; 5’10; light brown hair; blue eyes; second New                                 Stats: Age 13; 5’11; dark brown hair; brown eyes; second New
                            York runway season; walked Vuitton, Givenchy, Chanel, and                                    York runway season
                            D&G last Paris and Milan runway seasons                                                      Hometown: Santa Monica, Calif.
                            Hometown: Calgary, Canada                                                                    Name dropping: Spring 2004 Marc by Marc Jacobs campaign
                            Name dropping: American Vogue with Raymond Meier; Italian                                    with Juergen Teller; Gap TV ad with Peter Lindbergh; Tommy
                            Vogue with Steven Meisel; W with Craig McDean; Flair with                                    Jeans spring 2004 campaign; W with Bruce Weber; Teen Vogue
                            Philippe Cometti                                                                             with Carter Smith and Thomas Schenk
                            Runway schedule: Confirmed for Zac Posen, Diane von                                          Runway schedule: Confirmed for Tracy Reese, Peter Som,
                            Furstenberg, Marc Jacobs, BCBG and Anna Sui; on hold for                                     Twinkle by Wenlan, Catherine Malandrino, Atil Kutoglu,
                            Calvin Klein, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Jill Stuart, Imitation of                                 Gustavo Arango, Generra, Milly and Hong Kong Luxe Show
                            Christ, Proenza Schouler and Mathew Williamson                                               Secret weapon: She’s got a strut to rival Gisele’s.
                            Secret weapon: She’s just got it, and the personality to boot.




                            Dasha Tchernova/Marilyn Agency                                                               Cameron Russell/Ford Models

                            Stats: Age 19; 5’9 1/2; brown hair; blue-green eyes; first                                   Stats: Age 16; 5’9; dark blonde hair; brown eyes; second New
                            runway season                                                                                York runway season
                            Hometown: Siberia, Russia                                                                    Hometown: Boston
                            Name dropping: Calvin Klein spring 2004 campaign with Mikael                                 Name dropping: Givenchy Spring Colors 2004 makeup
                            Jansson; Valentino Red campaign; Vogue with Mario Testino;                                   campaign with Richard Burbridge; The Face with Greg Lotus;
                            British Vogue with Carter Smith; French Vogue with Terry                                     Teen Vogue with Raymond Meier; Japanese Vogue with Alasdair
                            Richardson; Russian Vogue with Alexei Hay                                                    Mclean
                            Runway schedule: Confirmed for Badgley Mischka, BCBG, Jill                                   Runway schedule: On hold for Calvin Klein, Marc by Marc
                            Stuart, Rebecca Taylor, Lela Rose, Yigal Azrouel, Y&Kei, Derek                               Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, Proenza Schouler and Luella Bartley
                            Lam                                                                                          Secret weapon: That face!
                                                                                                     PHOTO BY JIN PARK




                            Secret weapon: Long locks and a captivating gaze.




                            Anna J/Next Model Management                                                                 Sarka Littmannova/Trump Model Management

                            Stats: Age 16; 5’10; blonde hair; blue eyes; second New York                                 Stats: Age 15; 5’10; blonde hair; blue eyes; first New York
                            runway season                                                                                runway season; walked Emporio and Giorgio Armani last Milan
                            Hometown: Warsaw, Poland                                                                     runway season
                            Name dropping: Moschino Cheap & Chic spring 2004                                             Hometown: Prague, Czech Republic
                            campaign; Italian and British Vogue with Paolo Roversi; French                               Name dropping: Spring 2004 European Emporio Armani
                            Vogue with David Sims; Flair with Patrick Demarchelier; ID                                   campaign
                            with Richard Bush                                                                            Runway schedule: On hold for Ralph Lauren, Marc by Marc
                            Runway schedule: Confirmed for Marc Jacobs, DKNY, Zac                                        Jacobs, Calvin Klein, DKNY, Diane von Furstenberg, BCBG,
                            Posen, BCBG, Jill Stuart, Diane von Furstenberg, Y&Kei; on                                   Vivienne Tam; early Milan option for Jil Sander
                            hold for Calvin Klein, Richard Tyler and Esteban Cortazar                                    Secret weapon: Blonde and so beautiful!
                            Secret weapon: She’s “all about sass,” according to her agency.




                            Diana Sillatos/Major Model Management                                                        Trilby Doone/IMG

                            Stats: Age 16; 5’10; light brown hair; blue eyes; first New York                             Stats: age 19; 6’; light brown; blue eyes; first runway season
                            runway season; did Jil Sander exclusive last Milan runway                                    Hometown: New York
                            season                                                                                       Name dropping: She just signed three weeks ago and doesn’t
                            Hometown: Tallinn, Estonia                                                                   even have a card, but is already lined up for the spring 2004
                            Name dropping: Jil Sander spring 2004 special catalogue with                                 Giorgio Armani Fragrance campaign with Mikael Janssen.
                            Giampaolo Sgura; Teen Vogue with Frederic Helwig; Kult                                       Runway schedule: Confirmed for Narciso Rodriguez and Tess
                            Magazine with Christina Taranto; D Magazine with Lorenzo                                     Giberson
                            Bringheli                                                                                    Secret weapon: Gams galore!
                            Runway schedule: Walked Perry Ellis; confirmed for Vena Cava,
                            Lynn Park and Mary Ping; on hold for Zac Posen, Richard Tyler,
                            Jill Stuart and Monique Lhuillier
                            Secret weapon: A big bundle of energy.
© 2004, www.weatherproofgarment.com 212.695.7716




                                                   WEATHERPROOF               ®

                                                        GARMENT COMPANY

                                                     ” WARMTH IN THE CITY ”
34   WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004




Continued from page 8
5 p.m.: Shannon Stokes, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West
                                                           Calendar
                                                           38th Street.
                                                           10 a.m.: Bahar Korcan, Studio Noir, Bryant Park.
                                                                                                                        4 p.m.: Benjamin Cho, Maritime Hotel.
                                                                                                                        5 p.m: Baby Phat by Kimora Lee Simmons, Baby Phat,
38th Street.                                               11 a.m.: Michael Kors, The Tent, Bryant Park.                1356 Broadway at 36th Street.
6 p.m.: Roland Mouret, 776 Sixth Avenue between 26th       Noon: John Varvatos, The Promenade, Bryant Park.             5 p.m.: H. Fredriksson, 343 Canal Street.
and 27th Streets.                                          Noon: Ya-Ya, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West 38th Street.        6 p.m.: Custo Barcelona, The Promenade, Bryant Park.
7 p.m.: Nanette Lepore, Studio Noir, Bryant Park.          1 p.m.: Vivienne Tam, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 60th          7 p.m.: Anna Sui, The Tent, Bryant Park.
7 p.m.: Generra, Drive In Studio, 443 West 18th Street.    Street and Columbus Circle.                                  8 p.m.: Matthew Williamson, Studio Noir, Bryant Park.
7 p.m.: Holly Kristen, Gotham Hall, 985 Sixth Avenue.      1 p.m.: J. Mendel, The Atelier, Bryant Park.                 8-11 p.m.: Miho-Miho/Miho Nikaido, Siberia, 356 West
8 p.m.: Narciso Rodriguez, The Tent, Bryant Park.          2 p.m.: Proenza Schouler, The Studio, Bryant Park.           40th Street.
8-9 p.m.: Louis Vuitton (Fifth Avenue global store-open-   3 p.m.: Yeohlee, Chemist Club at the Dyalan Hotel, 52        9 p.m.: Jennifer Nicholson, The Atelier, Bryant Park.
ing party), 1 East 57th Street.                            East 41st Street
8-11 p.m.: Marc Ecko, 22 West 19th Street.                 3-7 p.m.: Antilika, 23 Suite Studio, Greenwich Street.,      Thursday, Feb. 12
9 p.m.: nom d., Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West 38th Street.   Suite 3A.                                                    8-10 a.m.: Gevril (accessories), Most Favorite Dessert,
                                                           4 p.m.: Lela Rose, Inn at Irving Place, 56 Irving Place at   120 West 45th Street.
Wednesday, Feb. 11                                         17th Street.                                                 9 a.m.: Jeffrey Chow, The Atelier, Bryant Park.
9 a.m.: Vera Wang, The Atelier, Bryant Park.               4 p.m.: Michael Soheil, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West 38th     10 a.m. Esteban Cortazar, Studio Noir, Bryant Park.
10 a.m.: David Rodriguez, Mao Space at Atlas, 66 West      Street.                                                      11 a.m.: Chado Ralph Rucci, The Promenade, Bryant
                                                                                                                                                Park.
                                                                                                                                                Noon: Carmen Marc Valvo, The
                                                                                                                                                Tent, Bryant Park.
                                                                                                                                                Noon-6 p.m.: Kaufman Franco,
                                                                                                                                                Nippon Gallery, 145 West 57th
                                                                                                                                                Street.
                                                                                                                                                1 p.m.: Peter Som, The Atelier,
                                                                                                                                                Bryant Park.
                                                                                                                                                2 p.m.: Behnaz Sarafpour,
                                                                                                                                                Studio Noir, Bryant Park.
                                                                                                                                                3 p.m.: James Coviello, The
                                                                                                                                                Atelier, Bryant Park.
                                                                                                                                                3 p.m.: Multi by Bree, Bryant
                                                                                                                                                Park Hotel, 40 West 40th Street.
                                                                                                                                                3-6 p.m.: Daryl K, Daryl K Store,
                                                                                                                                                21 Bond Street.
                                                                                                                                                4 p.m.: Calvin Klein, Milk
                                                                                                                                                Studios, 450 West 15th Street.
                                                                                                                                                4 p.m.: Famura, Splashlight
                                                                                                                                                Studios, 529-535 West 35th Street.
                                                                                                                                                5 p.m.: Cynthia Rowley, The
                                                                                                                                                Promenade, Bryant Park.
                                                                                                                                                6 p.m.: Zac Posen, The Tent,
                                                                                                                                                Bryant Park.
                                                                                                                                                6:30-8:30 p.m.: Korean Preview
                                                                                                                                                in New York, Metropolitan
                                                                                                                                                Pavilion, 125 West 18th Street.
                                                                                                                                                7 p.m.: Fusa Designs, Studio
                                                                                                                                                Noir, Bryant Park.
                                                                                                                                                7 p.m.: United Bamboo,
                                                                                                                                                Scandanavian House, 58 Park
                                                                                                                                                Avenue between 37th and 38th
                                                                                                                                                Streets.
                                                                                                                                                7 p.m.-9 p.m.: T’frisson NY, 77
                                                                                                                                                Greene Street at Broome Street.
                                                                                                                                                7-9 p.m.: Joanna Mastroianni,
                                                                                                                                                230 West 38th Street.
                                                                                                                                                7:30 p.m.: Carlos Miele, Gotham
                                                                                                                                                Hall, 985 Sixth Avenue
                                                                                                                                                8 p.m.: Twinkle by Wenlan, The
                                                                                                                                                Atelier, Bryant Park.
                                                                                                                                                9 p.m.: Heatherette, Mao Space
                                                                                                                                                at Atlas, 66 West 38th Street.
                                                                                                                                                9 p.m.-midnight: Wendy Mullin,
                                                                                                                                                Star Foods, 69 East 1st Street.
                                                                                                                                                10 p.m.: Sydney & Sara Cant,
                                                                                                                                                Avalon, 47 West 20th Street.
                                                                                                                                                11 p.m.: Indashio & Joelle Jean
                                                                                                                                                Fontaine, Avalon, 47 West 20th
                                                                                                                                                Street.

                                                                                                                                                Friday, Feb. 13
                                                                                                                                                9 a.m.: Ralph Lauren (also at 10
                                                                                                                                                a.m. and 11 a.m.), DIA Annex,
                                                                                                                                                545 West 22nd Street
                                                                                                                                                10 a.m. Joe Boxer, The Tent,
                                                                                                                                                Bryant Park.
                                                                                                                                                Noon: Zang Toi, Studio Noir,
                                                                                                                                                Bryant Park.
                                                                                                                                                1 p.m.: Milly, The Promenade,
                                                                                                                                                Bryant Park.
                                                                                                                                                2 p.m.: Richard Tyler Couture,
                                                                                                                                                The Atelier, Bryant Park.
                                                                                                                                                2 p.m.: PHI, 76 Ninth Avenue.
                                                                                                                                                3 p.m.: Donna Karan New York,
                                                                                                                                                Eyebeam, 540 West 21st Street.
                                                                                                                                                5 p.m.: Atelier Cour voisier,
                                                                                                                                                Soho House, 29 Ninth Avenue.
                                                                                                                                                5 p.m.: Jackie Rogers, Elizabeth
                                                                                                                                                Dee Gallery, 545 West 20th Street.
                                                                                                                                                6 p.m.: Elisa Jimenez, Spirit,
                                                                                                                                                530 West 27th Street.
                                                                                                                                                7 p.m.: Nicole Romano,
                                                                                                                                                Capitale, 130 Bowery.
                                                                                                                                                8 p.m.: Yellow Fever, 250
                                                                                                                                                Hudson Street.
                                                                                                                                                8 p.m.: Circle by Mara Hoffman,
                                                                                                                                                Show, 135 West 41st Street.
                                                                                                                                                                                         WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004                  35


                  WWD
                                                                By the Numbers
                                                                                                                           Odds that the journalist’s shoes you just stepped on      photographer takes of one model’s walk down the
             ®The retailers’ daily newspaper                                                                               belong to someone from an edition of Vogue: 1 in 17.      catwalk: 100+
  Published by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of
                Advance Publications Inc.
           7 W. 34th St., New York, N.Y. 10001                                                                             Number of Business Week staff registered to attend:       Number of photographer “survival kits” distributed
          EDWARD NARDOZA, VP Editor in Chief
                               ,                                Number of New York City daily papers, including            1 (“special assistant to the editor-in-chief” Christine   by host sponsor Olympus for Fashion Week: 600
                        ,
           PETE BORN, VP Associate Publisher
                            ,
           BRIDGET FOLEY, VP Executive Editor                   WWD, with on-site staff covering the shows: 7 (also        Summerson. Have fun, honey.)
                                                                the Times, Post, Daily News, Sun, Newsday and                                                                        Item photographers most often bring (besides their
                 JAMES FALLON, Editor
         DIANNE M. POGODA, Managing Editor                      newbie amNew York.)                                        Number of editors from eBay registered to attend: 1       cameras): a stool.
            LISA LOCKWOOD, News Director                                                                                   (style director Constance White.)
           DAVID MOIN, Senior Editor, Retail
      ARTHUR FRIEDMAN, Senior Editor, Markets                   Number of student newspapers covering the shows:                                                                     Number of Krispy Kreme doughnuts expected to be
     ARTHUR ZACZKIEWICZ, Senior Editor, Financial               1 (the Indiana University Daily Student)                   Number of front-row seats guaranteed to be up for         fed to photographers this week: 2,000
             LORNA KOSKI, Associate Editor
         GABE DOPPELT, Entertainment Editor                                                                                grabs: 1 (Former Fashion Wire Daily editor in chief
           MILES SOCHA, Bureau Chief, Paris
       SAMANTHA CONTI, Bureau Chief, London                     Number of Daily Student staff covering the shows: 3        Godfrey Deeny up and moved to Europe months ago,          Pounds of chocolate hearts available at Redken’s
       ALESSANDRA ILARI, Bureau Chief, Milan                                                                               but he still had a seat saved at Kenneth Cole’s show      booth if the doughnuts aren’t enough: 75
   ROSE APODACA JONES, Bureau Chief, Los Angeles
        BOBBI QUEEN, Associate Fashion Editor                   Number of New York Daily News staff covering the           Friday. But you may have to fight former Bergdorf
            JENNY B. FINE, Associate Editor                     shows: 3                                                   Goodman’s fashion director James Aguiar for the seat;     Number of full-size Redken samples being given
     VALERIE SECKLER, Marketing Editor, Statistics
  ERIC WILSON, Associate Sportswear Editor, Designer                                                                       it’s said he’s covering the shows for the Web site.)      away at the same booth: 30,000
 SCOTT MALONE, Associate Sportswear Editor, Denim, Textiles
       AGNES CAMMOCK, Senior Market Editor                      Number of domestic Vogue editors and photographers
          JESSICA KERWIN, Senior Editor, Eye                    registered to attend: 37                                   Number of additional foreign photographers                Contents of the open bar stocked by the airline Song:
      SHARON EDELSON, Senior Editor, Research
    JULIE NAUGHTON, Prestige Market Beauty Editor               Number of editors and photographers from 10                expected to attend: 600+                                  48 bottles of Finlandia Lime, 48 bottles of Southern
     LAURA KLEPACKI, Mass Market Beauty Editor                  international editions of Vogue registered to attend: 37   Number of digital images a Getty Images                   Comfort, and 12 gallons of pineapple juice.
      NANDINI D’SOUZA, Fashion Features Editor
       EDMUND J. LEE, Fashion Features Editor
            MARSHALL HEYMAN, Eye Editor
       LIBBY ESTELL, Associate Sections Editor
    JENNIFER HIRSHLAG, Associate Sections Editor
      ANAMARIA WILSON, Associate Retail Editor
 ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT, Senior Accessories Editor
        MEENAL MISTRY, Fashion News Editor
             ETTA FROIO, Senior Executive Editor
             JOHN B. FAIRCHILD, Editor at Large
                     MARKET EDITORS
  Accessories: Marc Karimzadeh, Emily Holt (News), and
                   Julia Topolski (Fashion);
Beauty: Matthew W. Evans, Andrea M.G. Nagel, Kristin Finn;
 Furs: Bobbi Queen; Innerwear/Bodywear: Karyn Monget;
 Legwear: Marc Karimzadeh; Activewear: Melanie Kletter;
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Feitelberg, Julee Greenberg, Evan Clark; Ready-to-Wear and
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                                                                                                                                                                           Worth getting into
                    CORRESPONDENTS
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                    LAYOUT/COPYDESK
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36   WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004




                                                                                                                                                         PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO
                                                                                                                            Lyd carries a selection of                                                                                            Stone Kelly
                                                                                                                         contemporary lines from Los                                                                                        Events-Florals on
                                                                                                                       Angeles, London and New York.                                                                                            Ninth Avenue




Walking on the Wild West Side
LIKE A TREE SPROUTING IN AN                                     And yet, quaint boutiques and                              affordable housing and stores.                           or getting priced out of other         for Dance at 450 West 37th Street.
asphalt parking lot, Delphinium                              cafes similar to those found in                                  Because CHDC has a vested                             neighborhoods,” said RuthAnne             “You wouldn’t have thought
Home has taken root on a scruffy                             the West Village are popping up                               interest in improving the area, it                       Visnauskas, director of housing        this could happen a few years
stretch of Ninth Avenue near 46th                            between 30th and 59th Streets                                 picks tenants based on what they                         development for CHDC.                  ago,” said Howard Aaron, a bro-
Street here. The neighborhood isn’t                          west of Eighth Avenue. Clinton                                can bring to the neighborhood                                Stone Kelly-Events Florals at      ker at Northwest Atlantic Real
known for embroidered bath tow-                              Housing Development Co., a not-                               rather than how much they’re                             736 11th Avenue looks like it          Estate Services, who specializes
els or heart-shaped throw pillows                            for-profit agency that owns hun-                              willing to pay. The agency typi-                         belongs on Perry Street in the         in emerging neighborhoods.
like those displayed in the store. It’s                      dreds of apartments and thou-                                 cally gets between $25 and $45 a                         West Village. The showroom and         “The area is safe and centrally
a rough-and-tumble urban land-                               sands of feet of retail space                                 square foot for retail space,                            flower shop, which opened in           located. The rents are low and
scape of car dealers, horse stables,                         along Ninth, 10th and 11th                                    about $5 below market value.                             April, provides event planning         there’s parking.”
taxi garages and the Port Authority                          Avenues, is responsible for                                      “We’ve had good luck in rent-                         and floral arrangements.                  Commercial businesses have
Bus Terminal. Not for nothing is                             much of the evolution. CHDC                                   ing our stores to upscale tenants                            “This is still one of the areas    come for the same reasons.
the area called Hell’s Kitchen.                              renovates the buildings to create                             who are looking for larger spaces                        where you can get a decent deal for    Kenneth Cole’s 126,000-square-
                                                                                                                                                                                    the amount of space you’re looking     foot headquarters is at 603 West
                                                                                                                                                                                    for,” said Marco Olmi, an owner.       50th Street and Prada’s 119,000-
                                                                                                                                                                                        The proprietors of Future          square-foot U.S. headquarters is
                                                                                                                                                                                    Legend, at 796 Ninth Avenue,           housed in a former piano factory
                                                                                                                                                                                    said they opened the shop last         at 609 West 51st Street.
                                                                                                                                                                                    fall because the neighborhood             Graphic designers and archi-
                                                                                                                                                                                    lacked a CD store. Their place         tects live and work in converted
                                                                                                                                                                                    would be right at home on St.          warehouses and manufacturing
                                                                                                                                                                                    Mark’s Place or Bleecker Street.       buildings and luxury apartments
                                                                                                                                                                                        Lyd, a clothing boutique at        with expensive price tags are
                                                                                                                                                                                    405 West 44th Street, fills anoth-     under construction. Despite the
                                                                                                                                                                                    er niche, selling contemporary         changes, CHDC hasn’t gotten too
                                                                                                                     Pantone                                                        lines from Los Angeles, London
                                                                                                                                                                                    and New York. It’s owner, Mia
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           much interest from national ten-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           ants, according to Visnauskas.
                                                                                                                     comes out                                                      Gonzalez, has a unique perspec-           Further downtown, Bleecker
                                                                                                                                                                                    tive on Hell’s Kitchen.                Street is entering another phase
                                                                                                                     of the closet                                                      “I grew up in the neighbor-        in its development. Not too long
                                                                                                                     with a new                                                     hood,” she said. “What I really
                                                                                                                                                                                    like about it is that it still feels
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           ago the street had been populat-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           ed by they types of boutiques
                                                                                                                     arrangement.                                                   like a neighborhood even though
                                                                                                                                                                                    it’s gotten hipper.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           and florists that can be found in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Hell’s Kitchen. Now interna-
                                                                                                                                                                                        Gonzalez, a knitwear design-       tional designers are driving up
                                                                                                                                                                                    er, plans to introduce her own         rents.
                                                                                                                                                                                    line of sweaters into the store.          LuLu Guinness has a shop on
                                                                                                                                                                                        “Living on 48th Street, I          Bleeker Street, Ralph Lauren
                                                                                                                                                                                    thought it would be great if I could   has two and Marc Jacobs, three.
                                                                                                                                                                                    be a pioneer,” said Chris Masaoay,     Cynthia Rowley is opening a
                                                                                                                                                                                    the owner of Mies + Design Shop        store at 376 Bleecker Street and
                                                                                                                                                                                    at 319 West 47th Street. Masaoay,      Intermix is coming to the neigh-
                                                                                                                                                                                    the former head of retail sales at     borhood. Since being discovered
                                                                                                                                                                                    the Cooper-Hewitt National             by big name designers, rents on
                                                                                                                     Now, for the first time, all of                                Design Museum, sells textiles,         Bleecker Street have been
                                                                                                                     the PANTONE Textile Colors                                     vases and jewelry in his store.        creeping up into the range of $80
                                                                                                                     are arranged chromatically in                                  “This area once had a bad reputa-      to $120 per square foot.
                                                                                                                     the PANTONE for fashion and                                    tion but now it’s a haven for peo-        Stores in search of cheaper
                                                                                                                     home color system. New                                         ple with varied lifestyles and         rents are moving south to
                                                                                                                     colors, larger color chips and                                 interests and talents.”                Christopher Street. Basiques,
                                                                                                                                                                                        Hell’s Kitchen was once one        which sells fashion and home
                                                                                                                     more chips on each page
                                                                                                                                                                                    of the toughest neighborhoods in       furnishings, set up shop at 19
                                                                                                                     make the world’s most widely-                                  the city. Ruled for decades by the     Christopher Street. Albertine,
                                                                                                                     used color products a design                                   Irish mob, the area was written        which features young designers
                                                                                                                     essential. So, try it on for size                              off by commercial interests. But       such as Kathy Kemp, Sir, Nadia
                                                                                                                     and who knows what great                                       as other environs succumbed to         Tarr and Christina Hattler,
                                                                                                                     ideas you’ll come out with?                                    the glossy patina of national          opened at 13 Christopher Street.
                                                                                                                                                                                    chains, areas such as the                 Nicole Meyer a broker at
                                                                                                                                                                                    Meatpacking District and Hell’s        Newmark/New Spectrum, is
                                                                                                                     for fashion and home                                           Kitchen are being rediscovered         showing      a    space      at  14
                                                                                                                                                                                    for their authenticity.                Christopher Street. “I’ve been
                                           Contact your local distributor or call                                    we’ve got your number.                                             Taboon, a Middle Eastern           getting a lot of calls but I haven’t
                                           888.PANTONE. www.pantone.com                                                                                                             eatery on 10th Avenue, is set to       had any interest from national
               PANTONE® 17-1937   PANTONE Color identification is for artistic purposes and not for specification.                                                                  open today. Its owner, Danny           tenants,” she said. “Who knows.
               Hot Pink         ® All trademarks are the property of Pantone, Inc. © Pantone, Inc., 2003.                                                                           Hodak,operates a flooring busi-        Who ever thought Marc Jacobs
                                                                                                                                                                                    ness on 11th Avenue.                   or Ralph Lauren would open
                                                                                                                                                                                        Mikhail Baryshnikov is expect-     stores on Bleecker Street?”
                                                                                                                                                                                    ed to open the Baryshnikov Center                 — Sharon Edelson
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004                  37


It’s In The Bag                                                                                                                                                                                From left: Louis Vuitton’s
                                                                                                                                                                                          epi Speedy keepall; Yves Saint
                                                                                                                                                                                        Laurent’s Saint Tropez bag; Anya
                                                                                                                                                                                              Hindmarch’s new Bespoke
                                                                                                                                                                                           Ebury handbag, and Asprey’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  clutch.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Beyond the Boot
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               THEIR BOOTS HAVE BEEN ON EVERY GIRL’S FEET
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               this winter, and now Ugg Australia is ready to break out
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               its first collection of handbags.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Deckers Outdoor Corp., Ugg’s parent, teamed with
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Springfield, N.J.-based handbags firm Jacobs and Leslie
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Hsu Designs LLC to produce the licensed line, and first
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               samples are scheduled to hit the World Shoe Association
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Show Tuesday.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Connie Rishwain, Ugg’s president, is confident that
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Ugg fans will have no problem making the translation
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               from boots to bags. “As long as [the bag] has sheepskin
                                                                                   By Marc Karimzadeh                                                       and maybe even a few pairs of Roger Viviers, sans                  on it, it will make sense to the cus-
                                                                                                                                                            pantyhose.”                                                        tomer,” she said.
                                                                                   LET’S NOT KID OURSELVES — FASHION WEEK                                                                                                          And plenty of sheepskin there is.
                                                                                   is as much about the new looks on view in the front                      KATE BETTS, EDITOR, TIME STYLE & DESIGN: “Manolo Blahnik leop-     The collection, which wholesales from
                                                                                   row as it is about the runways.                                          ard print boots — they are not too high so I can still             $75 to $150 and targets existing
                                                                                       In fashion’s equivalent of the red carpet, an editor                 run in them...and an Hermés Trim bag. No more ‘It’                 Ugg wholesale accounts, consists of
                                                                                   who manages to get her hands on a much-touted but                        bags for me.”                                                      three groups with varying degrees of ex-
                                                                                   hard-to-get handbag can unleash a frenzy of sorts and                                                                                       posed fleece. Classic is available in col-
                                                                                   inspire fierce looks of jealousy. After all, the right                   AMANDA ROSS, MARKET DIRECTOR, HARPER’S BAZAAR: “A Louis Vuitton    ored sheepskin; Sundance mixes beige
                                                                                   front-row bag signals the clout an editor has with                       epi leather chocolate brown keep-all bag and                       or brown sheepskin with fleece along
                                                                                   designers and, in the trenches of chic, it’s as much a                   Prada’s round croc toe pump.”                                      the seams, and Fluff, the most whimsi-
                                                                                   sign of a magazine’s health as newsstand sales.                                                                                             cal group, features three styles covered
                                                                                       Choosing the right accessory is a more competi-                      PAUL CAVACO, CREATIVE DIRECTOR, ALLURE: “A Gap messenger bag       in longhair fleece. Like the boots,
                                                                                   tive sport than ever, so here’s a preview of what                        in black nylon. It’s easy and highly functional for                each handbag is lined with fleece.         A messenger bag
                                                                                   some of the editors believe will be this week’s                          my notebooks, programs, my supplies like aspirin,                      Designer Hsu said she was at- from Ugg’s debut
                                                                                   front-row must-haves:                                                    Band-Aids for blisters and safety pins.”                           tracted to the project primarily be- handbag collection.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               cause of Ugg’s wide-reaching cus-
                                                                                   AMY ASTLEY, EDITOR IN CHIEF, TEEN VOGUE: “I just carry a small           ANNE MCNALLY, FASHION DIRECTOR, VANITY FAIR: “My handbag will be   tomer base. “A lot of times you run into a shoe brand or
                                                                                   clutch for money, my cell-phone, a pen and, of                           my Anya Hindmarch Bespoke [Ebury] handbag. It                      handbag line, and they’ve really got one target customer,”
                                                                                   course, my Condé Nast pass. I like my bright green                       was a surprise from my children and has a quote                    she noted. “You’ve got suburban moms wearing Uggs,
                                                                                   alligator Asprey clutch. No one else will have one,                      from them in French.”                                              grandmas wearing Uggs and 16-year-old girls, too.”
                                                                                                       which is key in a bag.”                                                                                                     The audience may be broad, but the Ugg season gen-
                                                                                                                                                            CINDI LEIVE, EDITOR IN CHIEF, GLAMOUR: “A pink Yves Saint          erally isn’t — save for those West Coast girls who wear the
                                                                                                       Pamela Fiori, editor in chief, Town & Country: “If   Laurent Saint Tropez handbag, but it may be just a                 fleece-lined boots year-round with their denim minis. But
                                                                                                         the weather during fashion                         little too April to carry around in February. But by               Hsu remains hopeful the bag collection will easily carry
                                                                                                             week is anything like [recent-                 April, everybody else will have worn theirs, so why                over to spring. “Because the Ugg brand is so recognized
                                                                                                              ly], we’ll all be wearing Uggs                not?”                                                              as a winter boot, the bags would be a little hard [to do for
                                                                                                                 or Wellies and a Prada                                                                                        spring] because the only thing they use is the sheepskin,”
                                                                                                                    backpack. If it warms up,               ANNE SLOWEY, FASHION NEWS DIRECTOR, ELLE: “My vote is for Prada    she said. But the shapes, she added, “could actually
                                                                                                                    watch how fast the boots                riding boots and Helmut Lang patent wedgies.                       translate into linen, leather, beautiful canvas or prints.”
                                                                                                                   will come off, replaced by               Heaven knows if we’ll see high-heeled Uggs, but                                                                 — Emily Holt
Ugg boots                                                                                                           Jimmy Choos, Manolos                    anything’s possible in fashion.”



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38   WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004




Fashion’s Bi
Continued from page one
of Tommy, had a memorable bout of televised depression recently during an episode
of MTV’s “Rich Girls,” in which the spontaneous preparation of a Mexican meal led to
                                                                                         happiness, he said, as “when you’ve got money and your friends don’t, sometimes you
                                                                                         want to pay for them. But sometimes, they get a bit peeved and don’t want to think
                                                                                         that you’re buying their affection. That’s the hard thing about having money.”
a near nervous breakdown.                                                                   The mental health of the fashion industry has never been all that stable. Just think
    But on the other hand, reports of late indicate there’s a luxury turnaround on the   of Halston’s tirades, Calvin’s dependency issues and Yves Saint Laurent’s numerous
doorstep and the spring collections, including those of the aforementioned depressed     psychological maladies. Virtually every designer on Seventh Avenue has flipped their
designers, were about all things pretty and optimistic                                   lid once or twice — or, in Randolph Duke’s case, made a sport of being rough on the
    So what gives? Creative types are naturally susceptible to bipolar                                     staff. So they all get labeled as “crazy” by their employees, who then
disorders, but even by their own standards, designers are feeling a lit-                                   propagate the various designer neuroses as they move from job to job
tle erratic.
    “I understand the depressiveness of fashion right now,” said Alice
Roi, a young designer with a bright future, who’s put a lot of effort
into improving her personal outlook over the past year. “It is a turning
                                                                        “ So Iathink the
                                                                        life of fashion
                                                                                                           trading tales of manic depressives, obsessive compulsives, schizo-
                                                                                                           phrenics and a high occurrence of designers suffering from post-trau-
                                                                                                           matic stress disorder, usually right after their shows.
                                                                                                              One factor influencing what seems like an unusual number of
point. Right when I started out, before the new Millennium, every-                                         cases of depressed designers is the competition. Ever since the luxu-
thing was fun and exciting and experimental, right there with Miguel
Adrover and Imitation of Christ. It took a weird turn in the last year
                                                                        designer is                        ry market went bad three years ago, designers have had to cut back
                                                                                                           on expenses and staff, and a lot of them picked up the slack doing
or so, and now I can’t stand to hear the words ‘clean’ and ‘luxurious’
any more.”
                                                                        actually much                      their own research and design. On top of that, retailers have become
                                                                                                           increasingly involved in encouraging designers to ramp up their pro-
                                                                        shorter, because
    A lot of designers feel like Roi. Although they might tell themselves
they’re happy, they desperately long for the days of rambunctious
                                                                                                           ductivity, creating additional collections and exclusives for each
                                                                                                           store to get consumers — who’ve been depressed with fashion for
fashion spirit, not conforming to the demands of Wall Street or public                                     years — back into the mind-set of buying luxury goods at full price.
opinion or whoever owns their company this week.
    But there are a lot of factors impacting the designer business right
                                                                        we measure                            “I’ve been bouncing off the walls, so to speak,” confessed Ellis
                                                                                                           Kreuger, designer of Tocca. “I think the burnout rate has really in-
now, from the lingering effects of terrorism and war to the depressed
value of the dollar — yes, it’s depressed, too — to the dismally cold
                                                                        them in seasons.                   creased over the last couple of years. There are certain friends or
                                                                                                           people I know who are taking a break or rethinking what it means to
winter weather. There are moments of personal joy, like Perry Ellis
designer Patrick Robinson’s new baby or Michael Kors getting revved     Someone says,                      be in fashion. No matter what level you’re at, you’re continually de-
                                                                                                           signing. It used to be that you could have a break between the sea-
up about his Michael launch (“and I’m not depressed about leaving                                          sons, but now the retailers have forced us into doing all these things
                                                                        ‘How old are
Paris,” he said, in a sly nod to Celine). But professionally, it’s been a
little tougher to keep a straight face.
                                                                                                           — resort and holidays and transitional things all have to be designed.
                                                                                                           That causes stress in a lot of people.”
    When Tom Ford showed his last men’s wear collection for Gucci on    you?’ and I say,
Jan. 14, the first of his four farewells, there was a melancholy sense of
                                                                                                              Kreuger said he is able to maintain his sanity in large part thanks
                                                                                                           to having a boyfriend who is not in the fashion business.
tragedy in the air. “Obviously, I’m very sad,” he said then. “I have had
many sleepless nights. I’ve been incredibly depressed, but right now, I ‘Forty-two                            “He’s taught me not to take the job home with me,” Kreuger said.
                                                                                                           “Before I was living, breathing, eating, sleeping fashion. It’s very easy
have to focus on doing the best job I can until the day I leave.”                                          to forget it’s not 100 percent of your life. My advice is to marry some-
                                                                        collections.
    To put this in context, Ford earned a salary in 2002 of $4.7 million,
plus a guaranteed bonus of $1.85 million. In April and May of 2003,
Ford made $38 million by exercising his stock options, and in 2002, he
made about $23 million in similar transactions. And in a textbook ex-
                                                                                             ”
                                                                                — Roberto Cavalli
                                                                                                           body who’s not in it.”
                                                                                                              One thing that is clear when probing designers about the current
                                                                                                           mood of their profession is that most of them say they’re just fine. Of
                                                                                                           course, denial is a symptom of many mental disorders, which makes
ample of avoidance, during the three weeks prior to the men’s Gucci show, Ford went      such responses suspect. However, their responses do tend to reveal an interesting
skiing with Valentino in Gstaad, Switzerland, and then hopped over to Mustique in        pattern in the way designers think, which is that they maintain one eye on the collec-
the Caribbean for a vacation on one of Lawrence Stroll’s properties.                     tion in front of them and the other on all those still to come.
    Who wouldn’t be depressed?                                                              “The mood of a fashion designer is kind of like a student on the night before the
    Clearly not McQueen, who is the most widely rumored to succeed Ford at YSL           big examination,” said Roberto Cavalli. “It’s something between nerves and tension. I
Rive Gauche and made $22.3 million when he sold his company to Gucci. Yet he told        work like a student, because every six months there is a new examination, so I think
The Tatler of London that he might give up fashion altogether, saying, “I need to take   the life of a fashion designer is actually much shorter, because we measure them in
stock of everything I’ve done and think.” The money has been as much a hindrance to      seasons. Someone says, ‘How old are you?’ and I say, ‘Forty-two collections.’ ”
                                                                                                                                             WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004         39




ipolar Blues
     “Creative people in general feel this,” concurred John Varvatos. “The question is
 always how far can you push it, and what are you going to do 17 seasons into it and
 still be new. There is so much pressure from being under the magnifying glass, that
                                                                                              then so frustrated when it doesn’t work out the way you envisioned it.”
                                                                                                 Rowley found herself oddly comforted by Saint Laurent’s description in a docu-
                                                                                              mentary of the completely miserable and draining process of putting together a col-
 you’re constantly dealing with it. It definitely can have an impact on my psyche, but        lection, to conceptualize it and then execute such an extensive body of work.
 because I’ve been around for a while, I feel like I have a little more maturity in know-        “It all has to come from inside of you,” she said. “You have to be forward-thinking,
 ing that it’s not going to break me if somebody doesn’t like it. Having worked for           yet it’s such a personal thing, too, that it just takes everything out of you. It’s easy to
 Ralph and Calvin, and seeing that, you want to try to understand why people react the        get depressed when you’re doing it. I was completely miserable to be around a week
 way they do. But there are also guys like Paul Smith. I don’t think any-                                       ago, waiting for it all to come together, waiting for things to come in
 thing is ever going to rile him.”                                                                              from around the world, waiting for enough pieces to come into place
     Designers also have had to suffer through some major disruption                                            to realize and visualize what I’m working with here. Sometimes you
 recently, not the least of which are the global ramifications of Ford’s
 departure from Gucci. A lot of designers have been approached by
 the head-hunting firm looking to replace Ford in his roles at Gucci
 and YSL, leading to a lot of excitement and potential disappointment
                                                                            “ You have to
                                                                            be forward-
                                                                                                                don’t think you’re going to get to the next step.”
                                                                                                                   Following up on his debut collection for Perry Ellis, Robinson said
                                                                                                                before his show Friday that he was feeling mixed emotions over the
                                                                                                                positive reactions to his first collection. Because production con-
 that has been prolonged due to the secrecy of negotiations over the
 past three months. And the funk might only increase if, after all that
                                                                            thinking, yet it’s                  cerns require him to work far in advance, his second season was
                                                                                                                nearly completed by the time his first was reviewed, so there was lit-
 effort, Gucci’s majority owner Pinault-Printemps-Redoute does                                                  tle room to turn around and change things based on the initial reac-
 what’s widely rumored and goes for insiders.                               such a personal                     tion.
     There also have been a lot of big financial deals in the works over                                           “I think I’m damned depressed,” he said in jest, although it could
 the past year that either failed to come to fruition or remain up in the
 air — Varvatos is for sale, and so is Badgley Mischka, while Narciso
                                                                            thing, too, that                    be a case of using humor to mask a more serious situation. “I’m actu-
                                                                                                                ally nervous and crazed and happy at the same time. Actually, I’m ex-
 Rodriguez has been looking for new backing for a while. For many of
 the designers, it’s like getting dumped with no closure.
                                                                            it just takes                       cited. I also really try to put myself into a good spirit, because that’s
                                                                                                                what this whole brand is about. I can’t get all down and wear black
     “It’s just the cycles of fashion,” said Robert Duffy, president of
 Marc Jacobs. “When things don’t work out the way you want, it be-          everything out of                   clothing and be depressed, because that would just put myself out of
                                                                                                                a job and I’ve got a kid to feed.”
 comes very frustrating. Everything is like that.”                                                                 On the other extreme is Bradley Bayou, the Halston designer who
     Yet some designers seem to maintain a sunny disposition no mat-
 ter what the circumstances. Take Oscar de la Renta, who even when
                                                                            you. It’s easy to                   considers his optimism to be extreme, and it sounds like he’s taken a
                                                                                                                page or two from a few self-help manuals. “I’ve never been happier in
 he’s feuding with another designer or a journalist, does it with style
 and a sense of humor. That’s one of the reasons he’s been around for
                                                                            get depressed                       my life,” he said. “I choose to be optimistic because I have the choice.
                                                                                                                I’m not a cynical person. I do not have negative people in my life. I
 so long.
     “My mood is great,” he said. “In all the years that I’ve been in busi- when you’re                         simply get rid of them.”
                                                                                                                   Actually, Bayou said, he uses a test when meeting anyone for the
 ness, I’ve never been as successful as I am now. All I can tell you is                                         first time. As they approach, he asks himself, “How do I feel right
                                                                            doing it.
 about myself, and this is just a marvelous moment for us.”
     But it’s hard to be positive all the time, even Oscar would give you
 that. The act of creation is inherently stressful, as artistic types are
 frequently prone to strong cravings for acceptance and approval.
                                                                                              ”
                                                                                     — Cynthia Rowley
                                                                                                                now?” And when they walk away he asks the same question.
                                                                                                                   “If I feel worse, I tend to exclude that person from my life,” Bayou
                                                                                                                said. “It’s not my job to make everybody happy. I can only help people
                                                                                                                who want to be helped. In the world of creativity and fashion, there
 What is unique to the fashion business is that designers work off-season, showing            are swings of optimism and pessimism. I know there’s war going on and there are
 spring collections in the fall and fall in the spring, creating a confusing pattern of ups   things that drag people down, but if you choose to be happy and optimistic, it kind of
 and downs that are in contrast to generalized seasonal reactions.                            gets you through that. It’s called the new optimism.”
     “Maybe that’s why there’s that giant fabric store in the garment district called Mood       Well, a lot of it is personality. Roi keeps her footing firmly within the glass-half-
 Fabrics,” said Cynthia Rowley. “That is the cliché, that of the temperamental, narcis-       empty camp.
 sistic, bipolar designer. But the fashion industry really is a very stressful place. There      “Fashion is not looking for that rah-rah, hoo-hoo excitement right now,” she said.
 are not that many other industries or jobs where you have to reinvent the wheel twice        “It’s just standing back and looking to make things a little more reality-based. And
 a year and be scrutinized by your peers. The creative process brings out all sorts of        that’s depressing.”
 emotions and it does kind of have that emotional roller-coaster, Liza Minnelli-concert          And for everyone in the middle, working out whatever problems they’re facing,
 feeling. It’s just that you can be so thrilled with something when you dream it up and       Rowley has the perfect prescription: “There are drugs for these kinds of things.”
40   WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004




                                                            People With the Pencils
 Prada’s jacket.




                                                                                                                                                                                                            Goyard’s tote.


                                                                                          By Anamaria Wilson                                               Other than that I expect the designers to give us
                                                                                                                                                           something we could not have thought of.”
                                                                                          Kal Ruttenstein, senior vice president of                        NIGHTTIME INDULGENCE: “My Friday the 13th massage with
                                                                                          fashion direction, Bloomingdale’s                                Sam Cagning.”
                                                                                          WHAT HE’LL BE WEARING: “Although I usually wear Sean John
                                                                                          from head to toe with Nike sneakers, since I’ve lost 60          Ed Burstell, vice president and general manager,
                                                                                          pounds I’ll be wearing a suit and probably a raincoat            Henri Bendel
                                                                                          or a puffer coat to protect me from the elements.”               WHAT THE BENDEL’S GIRL WILL WEAR: “Perry Ellis’ pink trench,
                                                                                          FASHION SHOW STAPLE: “It’ll be me and my trusty striped          Constança Basto python sandals [without hosiery],
                                                                                          cane designed by Chuck Price.”                                   Jonathan Saunders print dresses.”
                                                                                          LOOKING FOR: “Spring has been about color — it’s certain-        LOOKING FOR: “Everyone that’s new. Just in general, beauti-
                                                                                          ly selling — so we’re going to continue our quest for            ful coats and outerwear with the feeling from spring of
                                                                                          color.”                                                          color and print….We’re in the mood for buy now-wear
                                                                                          TOP SHOWS: “There are many we’re excited about, like             now, i.e. lighter fabrications for earlier delivery.”
                                                                                          Marc Jacobs, Zac Posen, Derek Lamb and Proenza                   SHOWS THAT TOP HIS LIST: “A combination of the established
                                                                                          Schouler.”                                                       and the young: Michael Kors, Matthew Williamson,
                                                                                          NIGHTTIME INDULGENCE: Ten o’clock dinners at Schiller’s          Jeffrey Chow, Peter Som, Esteban Cortazar, Daryl K.”
                                                                                          Liquor Bar.                                                      BIG NIGHT OUT: “Of course, it’s our party for Alice
                                                                                                                                                           Temperley, hosted by Helena Christensen.”
                                                                                          Jaqui Lividini, senior vice president of fashion                 FASHION SHOW STAPLE: New Miguel Adrover custom-made
                                                                                          merchandising, Saks Fifth Avenue                                 black cashmere coat.
                                                                                          WHAT SHE’LL BE CARRYING: “A tan Prada chain-handle bag be-
                                                                                          cause, [even though it’s from spring], you can still             Robert Burke, vice president and senior
                                                                                          wear it with a fur.”                                             fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman
                                                                                          FASHION SHOW STAPLE: Hermès zippered organizer.                  LOOKING FOR: “Tailoring. We’ve had a strong season with jack-
                                                                                          LOOKING FOR: “We’re always looking for newness, any-             ets. I’m also curious to see fabrics with more interesting
                                                                                          thing directional, certainly new designers and inspi-            textures, but still tailored and very feminine. We expect
                                                                                          ration from established designers.”                              to see a significant amount of fur accessories, too. ”
                                                                                          MOST ANTICIPATED SHOWS: “I’m excited to see everything.”         NIGHTTIME INDULGENCE: “Having a drink at home.”
                                                                                          NIGHTTIME INDULGENCE: “Sleep. I’m seven months pregnant,         FASHION SHOW STAPLES: John Lobb shoes and Altoids.
                                                                                          after that last show I’ll be going home.”
                                                                                                                                                           Roopal Patel, fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman
                                                                                          Julie Gilhart, vice president and fashion director,              WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: Black lace Chanel coat with gros-
                                                                                          Barneys New York                                                 grain trim, Tuleh zebra coat, little floral-print
                                                                                          WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: “Barbara TFank floral blazer,            blouses from Peter Som, and anything from Tracy
                                                                                          Rochas tangerine sweater, Lanvin black pleated                   Reese; Matthew Williamson’s pale mint green
                                                                                          skirt and Kazuko crystals for protection.”                       python bag, and Lambertson Truex’s orange
                                                                                          FASHION SHOW STAPLES: “My trail mix so I can have energy         shopper.
                                                                                          to continue hiking to all the shows and appoint-                 FASHION SHOW STAPLE: iPod.
                                                                                          ments. Second, my Goyard tote bag that seems to be               TOP SHOWS: “We’re looking forward to seeing everyone.
                                                                                          able to carry absolutely everything.”                            It’s a great lineup.”
                                                                                          LOOKING FOR: “We need great coats because our cus-               BIG NIGHT OUT: The Y  oung Fellows’ Winter Fête at The
Chloé’s jean.
                                                                                          tomers have worn to death the coats they have now.               Frick.




The View From Abroad
                                                                                            Lauren, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan and      NICOLE PICART, EXECUTIVE                  and rigorous style. France gave him a
                                                                                            Tommy Hilfiger, among others.              FASHION EDITOR, MADAME FIGARO:            bit more frivolity.”
                                                                                            New York fashion highlights: “I don’t      First things first: “Taking a walk down   Typically New York: The delis.
                                                                                            think it’s a great moment in New York      Fifth Avenue and seeing the latest art
                                                                                            fashion, but I do love how Ralph Lauren    exhibits.”                                DANIELA FEDI, WHO WRITES FOR
VIRGINIE MOUZAT, FASHION CRITIC               Dislikes: “I don’t like Midtown. And I        takes on the pure English look. It takes   Shopping spots: “The three “Bs” —         THE MILAN DAILY IL GIORNALE:
AT PARIS’ LE FIGARO:                          hate all of the air-conditioning.”            someone outside Europe to really           Bergdorf’s, Barneys and                   Take on New York fashion: “I adore Ralph
First things first: “Go to the Mercer for     Most looking forward to in New York:          understand the European                    Bloomingdale’s.”                          Lauren, and his recovery of the American
a tea. You see everyone. It’s like            “American fashion is very product-            continental chic.”                         Fashion shows attending: Ralph            tradition. I also love Donna Karan and I
reading a magazine; you get all of the        oriented. It’s efficient and buyable.”        Most looking forward to in New York:       Lauren, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Zac    used to like Calvin Klein — now we’ll
information about what’s going on in                                                        “Dressing up in the beautiful              Posen and others.                         have to see what happens. I appreciate
an instant.”                                  PHILIP UTZ, EDITOR AT LARGE,                  women’s clothes from the various           New York fashion highlights: “I really    how Americans are concrete and the way
Likes: “What I love about New York is         NUMÉRO MAGAZINE:                              photo shoots, slipping on the              enjoy Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren for   they turned sports clothes chic: They
the energy in the street. It’s a jolt. It’s   First things first: “Having dinner at the     beautiful heels and belts from John        their rigor and how their ideas           paved the way. I also go to Anna Sui, and
also modernity, which is a change from        Empire Diner or at Il Cantinori.”             Galliano and Dior and going out            materialize, I hope it will continue.     Michael Kors, I love that New York
old Europe.”                                  Fashion shows attending: Ralph                on the town.”                              Michael Kors also has a very accurate     welcomes all kinds of designers.”
                                                                                                                                                                                WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004                     41

                                                                        Sue Patneaude, executive vice president                                       LOOKING FOR: “I am looking forward to seeing all the coats.”
                                                                        of designer apparel, Nordstrom                                                MOST ANTICIPATED SHOWS: Matthew Williamson, Peter Som, Anna Sui
                                                                        WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: “My cashmere black-and-white tweed                    and Marc Jacobs.
                                                                        Donna Karan suit and, for color, my lavender Celine coat.”                    BIG NIGHTS OUT: “The MAC event on Wednesday night and the Louis
                                                                        FASHION SHOW STAPLE: “My Chanel tote that works both as a handbag             Vuitton opening on Tuesday night. And on Monday night, my
                                                                        and a tote.”                                                                  girlie dinner with Elizabeth Saltzman, Amy Sacco, Anne
                                                                        LOOKING FOR: “We look for a continuation of femininity and color.             McNally and Loree Rodkin, after the Marc Jacobs show.”
                                                                        I hope the print story continues; I don’t think it has been
                                                                        tapped out yet.”                                                              Sarah Lerfel, buyer, Colette in Paris
                                                                        MOST ANTICIPATED SHOWS: Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Narciso                    WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: A Tess Giberson skirt, Marc Jacobs “denim
                                                                        Rodriguez, Donna Karan, Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein,                     tweed” jacket and a Proenza Schouler tweed short.
                                                                        Jeffrey Chow and Jennifer Nicholson.                                          LOOKING FOR: Independent, quality and energetic brands like
                                                                        NIGHTTIME ACTIVITIES: “We have shows each night so those are at the           Lutz & Patmos, Generra, VPL and Tom Binns for accessories.
                                                                        top of my list.”                                                              MOST ANTICIPATED SHOWS: Marc by Marc Jacobs and Marc Jacobs,
                                                                                                                                                      Proenza Schouler, As Four, Libertine.
                                                                        Meital Grantz, owner, Talulah G.                                              BIG NIGHTS OUT: Jeremy Scott party, V and Adidas party, Raf
                                                                        WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: “Chloé’s white bell-bottom pants, Blinde 88           Simons event.
                                                                        special sunglasses in dark brown, Chloé black leather kodak
                                                                        bag, Pegah cashmere poncho and a pink Chanel caviar classic                   Natalie Massenet, founder and owner of Net-a-Porter,
                                                                        bag with gold hardware.”                                                      the on-line designer Web site
                                                                        FASHION SHOW STAPLES: White Montblanc pen, Louis Vuitton yellow               WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: “In my dreams, I am wearing a Fifties skirt
                                                                        epi leather, YSL mohair and gold cuff.                                        with kitten heels and a tweedy jacket with a rosette. In reali-
                                                                        LOOKING FOR: Cashmere sweaters that sit on the hips, fabulous                 ty, I’ll be bringing lots of vintage furs, jeans by Seven, flat
                                                                        wool coats, bouclé jackets and great earrings.                                boots by Le Flesh.”
                                                                        TOP SHOW: Proenza Schouler.                                                   FASHION SHOW STAPLE: “My new Trio 600 phone, which is amazing,
                                                                        NIGHTTIME INDULGENCE: Late dinners at Da Silvano.                             my digital camera and my laptop.”
                                                         Chanel’s                                                                                          LOOKING FOR: “I’m looking for anything that stands out from
                                                          jacket.       Stefani Greenfield,                                                                    the crowd, and I will also be looking on the streets, too,
Proenza Schouler’s shorts.                                              co-owner of the Scoop boutiques                                                          in addition to the runways. I think the Ugg boot struck
                                                                        WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: Her Marc Jacobs Stella bag, a                                      everyone, and while I won’t be looking for replicas
                                                        Matthew         Stone Island ski cap, a Polo Sport black down                                                of the boot, I will be looking for new directions.”
                                                    Williamson’s        coat and a Manolo boot.                                                                       TOP SHOWS: Roland Mouret, Sass and Bide, Michael
                                                          caftan.       LOOKING FOR: Jackets with a Savile Row feel, fit-                                              Kors, Narciso Rodriguez and Marc Jacobs.
                                                                        ted blazers, pants with slim legs and fall col-                                                          NIGHTTIME INDULGENCE: Sleeping.
                                                                        ors —navy and grays, bordeaux, egg-
                                                                        plant, camel.                                                                                              Cédric Charbit: merchandise manager
                                                                        MOST ANTICIPATED SHOWS: Both Marc Jacobs                                                                  for women’s wear at Printemps, Paris
                                                                        shows, Matthew Williamson, Tuleh,                                                                        WHAT HE’LL BE WEARING: Balenciaga Shetland
                                                                        Michael Kors, Diane von                                                                                  turtleneck, James Perse Ts and a Dior
                                                                        Furstenberg.                                                                                             Homme gray denim and coat.
                                                                        BIG NIGHT OUT: “Saturday night at                                                                          LOOKING FOR: “Strong and simple
                                                                        Raoul’s with my husband for                                                                                 pieces...We are looking for sexy, luxuri-
                                                                        Valentine’s.”                                                                                               ous basics, like what we find in Los
                                                                        FASHION SHOW STAPLE: “My Blackberry. I                                                                      Angeles [new jeans and new T-shirts],
                                                                        can’t leave home without it.”                                                                               but also very chic items with a big re-
                                                                                                                                                                                    turn of the vest and coat.”
                                                                        Sarah Easley, co-owner, Kirna                                                                               TOP SHOWS: Proenza Schouler, Marc
                                                                        Zabête                                                                                                     Jacobs, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Narciso
                                                                        WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: “A new ivory, thin                                                               Rodriguez.
                                                                        Rick Owens wrap sweater,                                                                                    BIG NIGHT OUT: Victoria’s Secret party on
                                                                                                                                   Marc Jacobs’ Stella bag.
                                                                        Maloles ballerina flats in bright                                                                           Wednesday and V magazine’s on Thursday.
                                                                        green with orange trim and a Matthew Williamson neon ani-
                                                                        mal-print silk caftan. Most likely not all together.”                     Anna Garner, head of fashion, men’s and women’s, Selfridges
                                                                        FASHION SHOW STAPLE: Chloé’s green bag for spring.                        WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: Chloé high-waisted Seventies faded jeans,
                                                                        LOOKING FOR: “We are more interested in adding new New York               Alaïa stilettos, and a Zoe Knight leather shell clasp bag that
                                                                        designers than in importing new resources for fall ’04.                   doubles as a belt and bag in one.
                                                                        There is more than enough talent here and the value is                    FASHION SHOW STAPLE: Smythson of Bond Street notebook, a stock-
                                                                        much better for our clients.”                                             pile of pens from Muji.
                                                                        MOST ANTICIPATED SHOWS: Sebastian Pons, Peter Som, Behnaz                 LOOKING FOR: “Originality, anything abstract, more independ-
                                                                        Sarafpour, Tuleh and Matthew Williamson.                                  ent designers than megabrands, men’s wear-influenced
                                                                                                                                                  pieces for women, Marlene Dietrich rather than Marilyn
                                                                        Beth Buccini, co-owner of Kirna Zabete                                    Monroe.”
                                                                        WHAT SHE’LL BE CARRYING: “A coral Jimmy Choo purse in protest of          MOST ANTICIPATED SHOWS: “Peter Som, he just gets better from season
                                                                        winter.”                                                                  to season, Derek Lam and Doo Ri — love the energy of the
                                                                        SPRING STAPLES: “I wish I could break them out now….Derek Lam             new guard.”
                                                                        carnation-print coat with teal satin ribbon, Maloles green                BIG NIGHT OUT: Cheap Date party on Wednesday night.
                                                                        ballet flats, Tuleh gown, Sebastian Pons printed jacket.”
                                                                        TOP SHOWS: “Really excited to see Derek Lam and Tuleh.”                   Bridget Cosgrave, women’s wear fashion director
                                                                        NIGHTTIME INDULGENCE: “Going home and playing with my daughter            at Matches, the London-based specialty store
                                                                        at night! Plus the Frick party on Thursday.”                              WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: “I know it’s going to be too cold to wear
                                                                                                                                                  what I want to wear, which is a Prada silk tweed jacket with
                                                                        Carl Dias, buyer for three Traffic boutiques in Los Angeles               a brooch and Prada’s beaten cotton dress with the corsage.
                                                                        FAVORITE SPRING PIECES: “I’m into pants. I’m done with jeans.”            What I will be wearing is Balenciaga’s wrap jersey dress
                                                                        LOOKING FOR: “I’m really into jackets at the moment that can be           with Bottega Veneta’s hand-painted snake shoes and a vin-
                                                                        worn on both coasts. They can be luxe, but I don’t want them              tage Diane von Furstenberg shirtwaister.”
                                                                        to do too many tricks. Classic but very modern.”                          LOOKING FOR: “I love the new cleaned-up, updated classic look
                                                                        MOST ANTICIPATED SHOW: “Daryl K. She’s always slightly ahead.”            that the Americans do so well. I’m talking about box-pleat
                                                                        NIGHTTIME INDULGENCE: “A Broadway show, probably ‘Wicked.’                skirts and cashmere sweaters.”
                                                                                                                                                  TOP SHOWS: Marc Jacobs and Diane von Furstenberg.
                                                                        Tracey Ross, owner, Tracey Ross in Los Angeles                            NIGHTTIME INDULGENCE: Hot chocolate.
                                                                        WHAT SHE’LL BE WEARING: “I’ll be wearing earmuffs, a Jil Sander fur                  — With contributions from Emilie March, Paris;
                                                                        hat, my Ann Demeulemeester boots and one of my fur coats.                                                        Samantha Conti, London,
                                                                        Or I’ll be wearing my really superwarm Northface jacket.”                                                  and Kristin Young, Los Angeles

      Dislikes: “I don’t like how Americans         Favorite watering hole: “I always make    on product and techniques. Paris is          fashion. There are many synergies and        think a little bit of sleaze, a little bit of
      don’t tolerate smokers, and that you          a point of having a drink at the bar at   more glamour and theatrical, but in the      cultural exchanges between Italy and         seediness is a good thing.”
      can’t even smoke when you’re outside,         Grand Central Terminal, which I find      U.S., the shows are more focused on          the U.S. and we keep this in mind.”          First things first: “A pedicure. They are in a
      waiting for a show. They are very rigid in    beautiful and fascinating.”               the product like in Italy.                                                                different class to the pedicures in London.”
      general, and there is not much                                                          Likes: “In New York, I love to go to the     JESS CARTNER-MORLEY, FASHION                 Pet peeve: “The one thing that freaks
      flexibility with invitations, for example.”   LAURA ASNAGHI, WHO WRITES FOR             Lower East Side and see the trends, see      EDITOR OF THE GUARDIAN IN                    me out at New York Fashion Week in
      Likes: “But, I love, love New York —          THE MILAN DAILY LA REPUBBLICA:            what young people are doing. I love          LONDON:                                      February is all the American editors in
      going to museums, the Guggenheim              Take on New York shows: “I go             going to museums. I also write about         Favorite U.S. designers: “Like all the       skirts and bare legs. How do they do
      and the Metropolitan are the best.            regularly, as it is important for us to   trends and news, so I pay special            British editors, I love Marc Jacobs and      that? It scares me.”
      There is the added stress of sending          have a complete vision of the shows in    attention to new restaurants, hotels and     Narciso Rodriguez; I am also excited about   Savory souvenirs: “It used to be Krispy
      pieces by 2 p.m., but we are always           Milan, Paris and New York. We pay         so on. It’s all very friendly, and you can   seeing Zac Posen, Proenza Schouler and       Kreme doughnuts and peanut butter
      under pressure, New York, Paris,              special attention to Ralph Lauren,        eat when you want.”                          Esteban Cortazar this season.”               M&Ms, but now you can get both in
      Milan… At Bryant Park, a few seasons          Calvin Klein and Donna Karan, but I’m     Why she comes: “There is an increasing       Take on American fashion: “To me, the        London, so I have more room for
      ago, my bag was open and I found a            also interested in Zac Posen, Betsey      attention to the New York shows, as          main difference between American and         clothes.”
      squirrel in it. How delightful! I             Johnson and Marc Jacobs. I like the       many of our readers are women who            European style is that Americans tend        Shopping stops: “Jeffrey, Barneys,
      loved it.”                                    fact that American fashion is centered    travel or in any case are interested in      to be very polished. Europeans tend to       Dean & Deluca.”
42   WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004

     Fashion week’s backstage chaos.                                                                                                                                                   Marc by
                                                                                                                                                                                  Marc Jacobs’
                                                                                                                                                                                     fall 2003
                                                                                                                                                                                  show sealed
                                                                                                                                                                                      the bang
                                                                                                                                                                                         trend.




                                                                                                                                                                                        MAC’s
                                                                                                                                                                                    artistry in
                                                                                                                                                                                       action.




                                                                                                                                                          Gucci’s spring



 Beauty’s Trickle-Down Theory
                                                                                                                                                          2002 runway
                                                                                                                                                          revealed a
                                                                                                                                                          glimpse of
                                                                                                                                                          curls to come.


 BEAUTY’S GOT LEGS, BUT THEY’RE NOT AS FAST                           Moreover, speed of adoption can depend on the type of       a lot of straightening and relaxing services in the salon
 as fashion’s gams at turning on a trend.                         marketer. Typically, Olum observed, smaller, more bou-          when everyone on the runways was wearing curly
     In fact, beauty experts say it takes at least six months     tique-oriented niche brands “are able to get product out        hair,” Dufourg said.
 for the ultrahip — and up to a year for the masses —             earlier,” which can really help the “It” girls, Olum noted.         Pasquale Ferrante, art director for Cutler NYC who
 before runway beauty trends turn up on Jane Q. Public.               And these principles hold true across the globe,            also works for Redken, explained that while it may
     Color cosmetics trends — like red lipstick and blue eye      noted Anika Betz, marketing director of the London-             seem trends come and go quickly, they always come full
 shadow, to name two that have trickled down to the con-          based Pout. “We saw a lot of pastel shades in the               circle. “First, hair had to be all one length, then there
 sumer level lately — tend to arrive a few months ahead of        spring/summer 2004 shows last fall, and that inspired us        had to be bangs. Now the bangs are getting longer (à la
 hair trends, which typically take a little more time to          to launch the Knickerbockerglory collection in April [a         Jennifer Aniston and Charlize Theron), and soon they
 break in, according to top New Y    ork stylists. Often, color   new range of shades, which includes ice blue, mint,             will get even longer” so that hair effectively will
 trends are on consumers’ lips — literally — within six           bubblegum pink and lemon eye shadows]. We are also              become one length again, Ferrante said.
 months, while a hair trend might take one to two years.          very inspired by the U.S. market, and have recently                 As for color, a number of companies believe that the
     And in some cases, according to John Demsey, presi-          introduced a matte finish to some of our products due           runway’s influences can be tracked back before the cat-
 dent of MAC, runways’ makeup looks never make it to the          to feedback [from that market.] In the U.K. and L.A., our       walks are even put up — that is, to influential European
 consumer level at all. “There’s just no one-size-fits-all,”      bright shades are very popular, but in New York, they           textiles shows. Jo Wilby, color specialist for Procter &
 said Demsey, whose brand is the new official cosmetics           prefer the look to be toned down.”                              Gamble, noted that she scours the biggest global shows
 sponsor for Olympus Fashion Week — and which will also               According to stylist and salon owner Rodney Cutler, beau-   each year — notably, Ideacomo in Milan and Première
 support dozens of shows in New Y     ork, London, Paris and      ty’s pace from the runway to the mall is evolutionary, one      Vision in Paris — for the colors, textures and sheens the
 Milan. The brand has been a longtime mainstay backstage.         that hits several stops before trickling down to the masses.    designers will be working with that season. “Our job is
     “Sometimes beauty runway looks can validate what’s               “What we do on the runway is so strong it will not          to design color trends that will complement seasonal
 already on the street, sometimes the looks will trickle          appeal to the salon client,” said Cutler. “But when they        dress,” said Wilby. “You don’t see garments made at this
 down to counter next season, and some don’t trickle down         start seeing it editorially in the fashion pages, and           point, but they [fabrics] create the color stories.”
 at all,” Demsey said. “Certain shows are more commer-            when they see a celebrity wear it in a watered-down                 B.J. Gillian, P&G’s official makeup pro, is there to fine-
 cial, and some are done for the effects and aren’t meant to      version, then the trend can take.” He used the frizzed-         tune shades and help determine what products are best
 be literally interpreted. However, we’ve done promotion-         out hair that appeared at Dior’s spring 2002 show as an         suited to reflect the seasonal mood, such as whether a cer-
 al color collections that have been inspired by looks back-      example that was “too much” for the mainstream. But             tain beauty look can best be acquired using a wax pencil
 stage, and we’ve tweaked other color collections depend-         when supermodel Gisele Bündchen began wearing her               or a gel-based item. For Cover Girl customers, said Gillian,
 ing on things we’ve seen in our work backstage.”                 hair in voluminous, wavy locks that summer — a com-             “We adapt what we do see on the runways and try to make
     In fact, how quickly — or even if — a look is adopt-         mercial take on the ’do — people grabbed onto it.               it goof-proof.” The minute the shows are announced he
 ed largely depends on two things: the type of consumer               Frédéric Fekkai noted that the same thing hap-              said, “we have a team that is mobilized” to monitor the col-
 and the speed at which product reaches the market,               pened with bangs, which debuted on fall 2002 runways            lections. “While we know a year ahead what the thread
 according to Betsy Olum, senior vice president of mar-           at shows of designers such as Oscar de la Renta, Anna           and fabric and dye lot could be on the runway, it is any-
 keting for Sephora USA. The retailer’s New York-based            Sui and Balenciaga, where they hung like sheets of              body’s guess what it turns out to be and what is chosen.”
 creative team, she noted, is constantly looking at the           rain in front of models’ faces. But it wasn’t until Heidi           Cover Girl operates a manufacturing plant in Hunt
 fashion world, evaluating trends and listening to cus-           Klum wore bangs that the masses caught on.                      Valley, Md., that can quickly make adjustments as needed.
 tomer feedback — while working at least six months in                John Ruggiero for Bumble and bumble added that                  Stephanie Klein Peponis, executive vice president,
 advance on themes for the coming season.                         Marc Jacobs’ Mod-inspired fall 2003 show and Britney            global marketing at Revlon, remarked there is a con-
     When it comes to consumers, Olum perceives a line            Spears’ cover for WWD’s sister magazine W (both of              fluence of events that Revlon monitors to provide prod-
 of distinction between early adopters of runway looks            which are owned by Advance Publications), in which              ucts and shade statements to lure consumers. “Revlon’s
 — a relatively small bunch she called “trendsetters” —           she wore bangs, drove home the big bang trend.                  role has been to create trends as well as be on trend,”
 and a more mainstream audience that prefers to wait                  Curly hair, which began appearing on spring 2002            she noted. “The runways really push the edge and
 until seasonal cosmetics make their way into stores              runways, is just now coming on strong in salons. “We’ve         allow us endless room to play, which is a perfect com-
 before adopting a look.                                          been saying that curly, wavy hair is in now for years,”         plement to what we do. Some of the runway looks are
     The smaller, more proactive set of fashionistas,             said Cutler. “But just now salons are putting away the          not wearable, but it gives us a huge arena to bring them
 Olum contended, immediately go into the marketplace              straightening irons and breaking out the curling irons.”        from the runway to reality.”
 and sniff out hot-off-the-runway looks from existing                 Hairstylists agree that beauty magazines validate               Tara Cohen, a product developer at Revlon, added,
 offerings. “Certainly the trendsetters see it on the run-        looks on the runway, since many of the trends aren’t easy       “We want to take things that are extraordinary out
 way, get inspired and go out looking for product that            sells. And since many consumers don’t have the confi-           there and take them to her [the customer] to use
 will give them that look,” said Olum.                            dence to step immediately into a trend, it takes seeing it      throughout her day. We are looking at how she can
     On the other hand, the rate at which the mainstream          in magazines or on celebrities for the trend to catch on.       make the application in her life.”
 adopts a look can depend on when new product reach-                  Laurent Dufourg, owner of Privé salons, agrees six                            — Andrea Nagel, Laura Klepacki
 es stores. “The majority of consumers waits to see               months is about how long it takes for the fashion and                 and Julie Naughton, with contributions from
 what’s new from [a beauty] company before looking for            style conscious to mimic a beauty trend. But for the rest          Kristin Finn and Matthew W. Evans, New York,
 makeup,” said Olum.                                              of America, a year is usually the norm. “We were doing                                 and Ellen Burney, London
                                                                                                                                                 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 7-8, 2004            43




Queer Eye for Fashion Week
 Thom Filicia                                   A rainy morning
 from “Queer                                    welcomed the
 Eye for the                                    opening of Olympus
 Straight Guy.”                                 Fashion Week.




By Eric Wilson                                                                                 give the idea that they are putting everything else behind them, because all they really
                                                                                               want to wear is their Olympus cameras. I felt the fountain had been neglected in the past.”
NO ONE WOULD EVER EQUATE NEW YORK’S FASHION WEEK TO YOUR AVERAGE                                   Frankly, it now looks abused. Wouldn’t any of the 100-some designers involved in
schlub with a hairy back, but when organizers of the semiannual runway shows in Bryant         Fashion Week please lend this poor man some clothes?
Park took a long look at themselves through a different lens, thanks to a new title sponsor,       Nevertheless, Filicia — and Olympus — have scored big points with the 600 registered
they suddenly discovered some problem areas. So they called in the professionals — or just     Fashion Week photographers, who now have on-site repair services at hand, iMac stations to
one of them, anyway.                                                                           download their images, extra cameras to borrow and their own lounge, covered in pleasant
   Interior designer Thom Filicia, a.k.a. the home styling representative of “Queer Eye for    geometric print area rugs. Mayor Bloomberg applauded the photographers as well, stepping
the Straight Guy,” was given the honorary title of Olympus design director and charged with    into a makeshift photo pit for the event and offering a few comments on the fashion industry’s
making over the inside of the Bryant Park tents, much as he would any hapless victim on        importance to New Y    ork City, representing $35 billion in economic activity and 155,000 jobs
his Bravo program. His mission was to spruce up the place — which hasn’t seen a real           — or 5 percent of the city’s private employment.
update since the Dinkins administration — to reflect the corporate spirit of Olympus, 7th          “Y ou’re going to see some wonderful clothes modeled by the most beautiful people, but
on Sixth’s new title sponsor, and also to put more focus on the photographers.                 these are the ones I want you to look at — the audience,” Bloomberg said. “New Y       orkers are
   Along with Mayor Michael Bloomberg, Kenneth Cole, Olympus executives and Fern               some of the best-looking people in the world.”
Mallis, executive director of 7th on Sixth, Filicia unveiled his work at a Friday morning          There are a few fashion designers who might have a problem with that directive,
ribbon-cutting ceremony. And the look is really something — maybe not fierce, but he           preferring that attention be on their clothes. Come to think of it, they’d probably have their
sure did Olympus proud. The biggest change in Bryant                                                                              own suggestions for how to spruce up the week. So let’s turn
Park is that the tents’ interiors are mostly black, giving                                                                        to another makeshift mélange of stylish personalities for
them a sepulchral pallor, an effect that was heightened by
a rainy winter’s morn. The tents are dark enough to
                                                                   felt the         had
                                                               “ Ineglectedfountainpast. been
                                                                             in the
                                                                                                                                  their advice. Here, the Fab Five meets the Fashion Five.
                                                                                                                                     When asked the other day, Oscar de la Renta, the master of
develop film inside, if it weren’t for the fact that everybody
shoots digitally these days. At least Filicia wore a bright
blue suit, the cheeriest pop of color in the place.
   “I wanted to create a space with comfort in mind for the
                                                                                        ”                                         manners, said all Fashion Week needs to look better is
                                                                                                                                  simple: “Start on time,” he said. Perry Ellis designer Patrick
                                                                                                         — Thom Filicia Robinson, looking outside his window, was similarly succinct:
                                                                                                                                  “Move it to Miami.” Cynthia Rowley suggested a helpful hint
people who are here a lot,” said Filicia, sitting on gray flannel modular furniture, along     in “hiring male and female models to sprint around the park in sunglasses to give it a more
with a sparse supply of tiny paillette-covered pillows embroidered with rhinestone Ws (as      glamorous effect,” while Alice Roi is a proponent of simplifying her schedule: “I’d spread
in the hotel chain, another sponsor). “I wanted to give it a hint of a residential feel with   it out and make it a fashion month,” she said.
lighting and rugs. It’s an essence of the luxury of being at home, without being literal.”         “I would close the city to traffic, except for fashion people,” added Michael Kors. “At
   All around the main tent, just as in most people’s homes, are alcoves celebrating things    least Mayor Bloomberg could do that for us.”
such as MAC cosmetics, Song Airlines and Dunkin’ Donuts — whose marketing executives               While he was at it, Kors — is it Kyan? — had a few other suggestions: “I would also remind
looking to chic up the cruller must have had a group coronary when Kenneth Cole laid out       everyone involved — the models, hairdressers, music people, editors, stylists and press — that
trays of Krispy Kremes for his guests. Smack dab in the middle of it all, where it’s been      what we do for a living is still a very pleasurable way to make money. People complain a lot, but
since 1912, is the Josephine Shaw Lowell fountain designed by Charles Adams Platt, which       we could be doing something a lot more difficult. We could be at war. We could be in the
Filicia has chosen as his coup de grass, filling its cement basin with some random topiary     medical practice. I’m so tired of people whining that ‘I’m wiped.’ Another thing, make the tents
and a dozen white mannequins modeling the latest Olympus offerings — and nothing else.         in such a way that everyone could have a front row seat in an incredibly comfortable chair.
   “It seemed to me to be a good idea to bring the park into the space,” Filicia said. “The        “And maybe everyone could TiVo the shows and if it gets boring, we could fast forward
fountain is the real key to the park, and I brought in the mannequins, which are nude to       them,” he continued. “That way, people could go to 10 shows in two hours.”


 Mayor Bloomberg                                                                                            Filicia's new look for the
 joined the                                                                                                 Josephine Shaw Lowell
 photographers’ pit.                                                                                        fountain.
                                                                                                                                                                                              PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER
                                       YOUR LEFT HAND LIVES FOR LOVE.
                                       YOUR RIGHT HAND LIVES FOR THE
                                       MOMENT. YOUR LEFT HAND WANTS TO
                                       BE HELD. YOUR RIGHT HAND WANTS TO
                                       BE HELD HIGH. WOMEN OF THE WORLD,
                                       RAISE YOUR RIGHT HAND.
THE NEW DIAMOND RIGHT HAND RING. MODERN VINTAGE, FLORAL, ROMANTIC AND CONTEMPORARY STYLES AT ADIAMONDISFOREVER.COM


Top right: ©2003 Caressa. Bottom right: ©2003 Universal Pacific. Top left: ©2003 Beaudry. Bottom left: public domain.   The Forevermark is used under license.

				
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