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					TLP Division                                                     Number 3 | 2008




Colour Chronicle
A Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited Publication
for the Textile, Leather, Paper & allied processing industries


29th year of publication
    colour chronicle 3 | 2008




    Contents
    textile                                          3
         Cotton and Acrylic Fibers Blends
         Dyeing of PAC/Wo and PAC/CEL blends
         coldblack®: Sun Reflector – UV Protector
         Some facts about light fastness


    leather                                         12
         New NMP-free Aqualen® Tops by Clariant
         Tanicor® OS-IN p


    paper                                           15
         Cartacoat® RM rheology modifiers
         Strength from the inner core



    GOTS approved list                              19

    new arrivals                                    20

    inside views                                    22

    gleanings from press                            25




2   colour chronicle 3 | 2008
                                                                                                            textile

                                                                               Cotton




                                                                    Acrylic
Dyeing Methods and Dye Selection for Blends of:

Cotton and Acrylic Fibers Blends
I – One Bath Method with Modified Basic                II – Two Bath Method with Modified
Dyes for Acrylic and Indosol SF Dyes for               Basic Dyes / Drimaren CL Dyes
Cellulosics                                            For better brilliance and high wet fastness properties

T   his method is only recommended for pastel and
    medium shades.
    Thiotan S liq prevents precipitation between the
                                                       we can dye this blend in two baths with modified
                                                       basic dyes and Drimaren CL dyes.
                                                           It is preferred to give wash with hot wash at 80°C
cationic modified basic dyes and anionic Indosol SF     for 10 minutes before dyeing cycle starts.
dyes, which may occur depending on the dyes and            Dyeing the acrylic component with modified
concentrations used.                                   basic dyes dyes in the 1st bath
                                                       Dyebath Composition
Standard recipe                                                  x       %         modified basic dye
It is essential to set the dye bath in the following
order:                                                        0.3        g/l     Ekaline F.IN liq
Liquor ratio: 1/10
     a) 1         g/l    Thiotan S liq                        6-8        g/l     sodium sulphate anh.
         0.5      g/l    sodium acetate
         Run 5-10 minutes                                     0.5        g/l     sodium acetate

    b) x       %      Modified Basic Dye                      3.5-0.5 %          Retargal ANI based on
       Run 5-10 minutes                                                          acrylic component weight
                                                                                 – Higher % for lighter
    c) y        %        Indosol SF dye                                          depth
       6        g/l      sodium sulphate anh.
                                                              pH = 4.5           acetic acid 80%
    d) Adjust pH to 4.5 - 5 with acetic acid.


Dyeing Programme                                       Dyeing Programme




                                                                                                    colour chronicle 3 | 2008   3
    textile



                            Over Dyeing the Cotton Component with Drimaren
                            CL Dyes in the 2nd Bath
                            Classic Drimaren dyeing with Thiotan S liq to
                            avoid chances of precipitation and agglomeration
                            of leftover cationic dyestuff and Drimaren dyes
                            (0.5 g/l)

                            After Treatment
                               Rinse well
                               Treat at 70 - 80°C for 15 mins. with:
                                      1 g/l Lyocol OU liq
                                      pH = 9 using soda ash
                               Rinse.
                            Special Treatment for very High Wet Fastness
                            Properties.
                            After treat with Optifix F liq

                            Same Method in Reverse Order
                            Although, it is economical to carry out this method
                            in the reverse order, i.e. first dyeing the viscose
                            component with Drimaren dyes and then the PAC
                            with modified basic dyes, dyed cotton component
                            is more heavily stained by the basic dyes while the
                            PAC is being over dyed (mordant effect), than when
                            dyeing according to the conventional method. For
                            this reason, the reverse method can only be carried
                            out with specially selected basic dyes.




4   colour chronicle 3 | 2008
                                                                                textile




Dyeing of PAC/Wo and
PAC/CEL blends
A    s a rule, PAC/Wo blends are dyed
     as yarn. Special attention has to
be paid to the shrinkage. The ratio
                                                the isoelectric point and level without
                                                electrolyte at a pH which corresponds
                                                exactly to the recommendation for dyeing
of the fiber components, the self of             acrylic fibers.
wool, the felting tendency of wool                  Since the wool absorbs part of the acid,
and the glass transition point of the           the pH of the bath may increase and lead to
acrylic fiber are also important factors.        the following problems:
    The most interesting process is the             Attack on the cationic dyes by
possibility of dyeing this blend in one bath.       hydrolysis.
It has to be borne in mind that the wool is         Increase in the staining of the wool
dyed in an acid medium with anionic dyes            dyes by hydrolysis.
whereas PAC is dyed with cationic dyes in           Only mediocre reproducibility of the
same medium.                                        shade on the wool component.
    There are two problems to be solved:            For this reason, we recommend adding
The prevention of precipitations between        a little acid before the end of dyeing at
the two dye classes and the prevention of       98°C or 105°C to promote exhaustion of
dye losses.                                     the basic dyes on the acrylic fiber and the
    While many non-ionic surfactants are        wool dyes on the wool. With deep shades,
soluble to prevent the precipitations, it is    it is advisable to wash off with Ekaline
difficult to achieve both aims. The cationic     F.IN liq to improve the end use fastness
dye, stains the wool at low temperature and     properties.
migrates on reaching the glass transition           PAC fibers and Cotton or Viscose
point to the acrylic fiber. The degree           complete each other quite well in their
of staining of the wool at the end of the       physiological behavior (PAC: warm, non
dyeing depends on:                              felting; CEL: good moisture absorption,
    Saturation of the acrylic fiber.             no electrostatic charging). Due to their
    Depth of the shade.                         non-felting behavior, PAC/Co blends are
    Cationic dyes used.                         becoming increasingly popular in the
    Use of glauber’s salt.                      market. For these blends an HT dyeing
    Use of a suitable dispersant.               is not necessary and very brilliant shades
    The wool dyes hardly stain the PAC          can be produced. One bath or one bath two
fiber but are greatly hindered in exhausting     stage processes are possible with results
onto the wool by unsuitable dispersants.        which meet the fastness requirements for
Thiotan S liq achieves both aims; it            domestic laundering.
disperses well and does not prevent build           Again the dye classes used (cotton
up on wool dyes.                                dyes – anionic; PAC dyes – cationic dyes)
    The Optilan MF dyes are particularly        pose certain problems but Clariant offers
suitable because they dye the wool at           solutions with various alternatives:

                                                                        colour chronicle 3 | 2008   5
    textile



                                Shade       Dyes               Dyeing Process             rinsed and washed off at 80°C with Lyocol OU liq
                                Pale        modified basic     One Bath                   and Ladipur RSK liq.
                                            dyes/Indosol SF                                   When dyeing the opposite way round, i.e., when
                                Pale-medium modified basic     One Bath                   the reactive dyes are applied first, they act as mordant
                                            dyes/Indosol SF                               for the cationic modified basic dyes because of their
                                Dark        modified basic     One Bath/                  sulpho groups. Severe staining and poorer fastness
                                            dyes/Indosol SF    two stage                  properties on the CEL component are the result. Hot
                                Brilliant   modified basic                                dyeing reactive (Drimaren X/XN) cannot be used for
                                            dyes/Drimaren K Two Bath                      cross dyeing because of the high amount of salt and
                                Dark &      Drimaren XN/       Two Bath                   alkali required. They lead to migration and change
                                Brilliant   modified basic dyes                           of shade of the basic dye on the PAC component. In
                                            (fixation with                                reversed processes where CEL component is dyed
                                            Optifix F liq)                                first, most basic dyes also show a mordant effect on
                                                                                          the CEL component dyed with Drimaren X dyes.
                                    The shade and fastness properties are determined
                                by the selection of dyes for the CEL fiber. The
                                economy is determined by the process.
                                    In all one bath processes the addition of a
                                dispersant such as Thiotan S liq paste is essential
                                to avoid precipitations in the dye bath. At the same
                                time Thiotan S liq improves the cellulosic fiber
                                reserve towards the modified basic dyes.
                                    With high dye concentrations only one bath two
                                stage process is suitable.
                                    The reserves of the PAC fiber to Direct or Indosol
                                dyes depend on the substantivity of the individual
                                dye. The dyes for application should be selected
                                carefully. Further, the reserve decreases with
                                increasingly acid pH value. The addition of cationic          Clariant has developed a process which is based
                                retarders increases staining of the acrylic fibers.        on the principle of blocking the sulpho groups of the
                                The addition of glauber’s salt required for one bath      reactive dyes by a treatment with Optifix F liq. After
                                exhaustion of the direct dyes has a retarding effect      this treatment the PAC component is cross dyed
                                on the cationic dyes and therefore, increases the         with modified basic dyes.
                                tendency to staining of the cellulosic fiber.                  An intermediate fixation treatment with Optifix
                                    Dyeing is carried out at pH values between 4          F liq achieves two things:
                                and 5 to exclude any hydrolysis of the cationic dyes.     a) The mordanting effect is almost completely
                                This may cause problems with the solubility of the            prevented, because the strongly anionic reactive
                                direct dyes. In the one bath two stage process, special       dyes on the CEL fiber surface are neutralized
                                attention must be paid to the dyeing conditions               by the cationic Optifix F liq, so that afterwards
                                which could be unfavourable for the cationic dyes.            when PAC component is dyed, the basic dye can
                                Migration of the modified basic dyes is possible at            no longer be adsorbed on the CEL component.
                                98°C in the presence of salt at a pH above 7. The pH      b) Treatment with Optifix F liq also binds a portion
                                should therefore, not rise above 6 in the second stage        of the unfixed reactive dye, thus obtaining better
                                and the temperature not above 85°C. The presence              yield and even at this point, nearly attaining the
                                of Thiotan S liq paste disperses any precipitations.          desired wet fastness properties.
                                    Brilliant shades can only be obtained with                The over dyeing of the PAC component also acts
                                reactive dyes on the CEL component. When using            as a soaping bath so that the laborious conventional
                                the Drimaren K dyes, the PAC component is dyed            soaping treatment to remove the unfixed and
                                first as usual and then the CEL component in a fresh       hydrolyzed reactive dye becomes unnecessary.
                                bath with Drimaren K dyes by one of the usual                 The reserve procedure also permits shading of
                                processes. These processes have very little effect on     the PAC component, which as a rule involves fewer
                                the shade of the PAC dyeing. Finally, the goods are       problems than shading the CEL component.

6   colour chronicle 3 | 2008
                                                                                                                                 textile




coldblack®: Sun Reflector –
UV Protector
                                                        Reliable Protection from UV Rays
D    ark colours heat up stronger when exposed to
     direct sunlight compared to light colours. Many
textiles worn in the summer time or exposed to the
                                                           Many textiles worn in the summer time or exposed
                                                           to the sun offer poor protection from damaging UV
sun offer poor protection from damaging UV rays.           rays.
   In order to prevent this from occuring, we have         The coldblack® technology guarantees a minimum
come up with cold black process.                           UPF 30+ protection when applied to any textile** in
   coldblack® combines two functions in one special        any colour without affecting the look or feel of the
finishing technology for textiles:                          product.
   – Sun Reflector                                          The UV protection factor (UPF) gives an indication
   – UV Protector                                          of how much longer someone using coldblack®
                                                           textiles can remain in the sun without incurring any
Effective Heat Management                                  skin damage. The calculations were based on the so-
    Light coloured textiles reflect both visible and        called self-protection time of the skin, which varies
    invisible rays of sunlight, meaning both heat and      according to individual skin type.
    light.
    Dark coloured textiles absorb both types of rays    ** Important: The UPF value can vary depending on structure,
                                                        thickness and material. It relates to closed textile surfaces.
    and therefore, absorb heat.
                                                        For this reason, the UPF factor needs to be determined
    coldblack® reduces this absorption of heat rays     on the different textiles. From a minimum of UPF 30+,
    particularly in the case of darker colours and in   coldblack®conformity is guaranteed.
    all types of textiles.
    The result is tangibly better heat management.
                                                        Skin Types with varying Degrees of Self-protection
Without coldblack®                                      Skin Description                    Sunburn risk in high
Dark textiles without coldblack® absorb heat.           type                                summer midday after
                                                        I      Pale skin with freckles      approx. 5 to 10 minutes
                                                               blonde or red hair
                                                        II     Pale skin and blonde hair    approx. 10 to 20 minutes
                                                               blue or green eyes
                                                        III    Medium skin dark hair        approx. 20 to 30 minutes
                                                               and brown eyes
                                                        IV     Naturally dark skin black    approx. 40 minutes
                                                               or dark hair brown eyes


With coldblack®                                         coldblack® - Practical examples
Dark textiles with coldblack® reflect heat.
                                                        Skin Protection with coldblack® textiles
                                                        type (UPF 30+)UPF x self-protection of skin
                                                        I      150 to 300 minutes = 2.5 h to 5 h until skin reddens
                                                        II     300 to 600 minutes = 5 h to 10 h until skin reddens
                                                        III    600 to 900 minutes = 10 h to 15 h until skin reddens
                                                        IV     1200 minutes       = 20 h until skin reddens




                                                                                                                         colour chronicle 3 | 2008   7
    textile



                                coldblack®-Reliable Protection from UV Rays                 Reliable protection from UV rays (minimum
                                Without coldblack®                                          UPF 30+)
                                Light coloured textiles without Coldblack® allow                         – Protection from UV-A rays and
                                UV-rays to penetrate                                                     UV-B rays.
                                                                                                         – UV-A rays accelerate the aging
                                                                                                         of the skin.
                                                                                                         – UV-B rays cause a pigment
                                                                                        change that result in long term browning. Without
                                                                                        effective UPF protection (Ultraviolet Protection
                                                                                        Factor), aggressive oxygen molecules are released
                                                                                        which cause sunburn or which can lead to the
                                With coldblack®                                         formation of melanoma.
                                Light coloured textiles with coldblack® significantly
                                reduce UV-rays from penetration

                                                                                                                  “bluesign®     Approved”
                                                                                                                  Components
                                                                                                                     The         coldblack®
                                                                                                                  finishing only contains
                                                                                                                  “bluesign      approved”
                                                                                                                  components.
                                Examples for UV Protection measures and their              “bluesign approved” components are as low as
                                UV Protection factors                                      possible in harmful substances, making them
                                UV protection                        UV protection         benign to mankind and the environment and
                                measures                             factor                encouraging the economical and ecological use
                                Shade under a parasol                                      of resources in the production process.
                                without special UV protection        appox. 5
                                Shade under a tree                   approx. 10         Coldblack® – Advantages at a Glance
                                Light cotton clothing                approx. 10            Less sweat.
                                Sun cream with correct                                     Increased concentration.
                                application                          0 to 30               Higher performance.
                                Thick cotton clothing                                      Greater comfort.
                                without coldblack®                   approx. 20+           Increased endurance.
                                Textiles with coldblack®             minimum 30+           Minimum UPF 30+.
                                                                                           No adverse effect on looks, feel or breathability.
                                Many textiles equipped with coldblack® demonstrate a       Function lasts through numerous washing and
                                UV protection factor of over UPF 50.                       cleaning processes.
                                                                                           Finish    comprises     “bluesign      approved”
                                coldblack® - Advantages                                    components.
                                   Optimal Protection from Heating-up due to
                                   Sunlight                                             Following are the wide range of applications and
                                                Because textiles finished with           lifestyle categories, which provide added comfort
                                                coldblack® heatup less in all           due to coldblack®:
                                                colours compared with material              outdoor
                                                without a coldblack® finish.                 bike
                                                                                            sportswear
                                   Textiles stay Cool to the Touch                          workwear
                                                 When applied to clothing, this             uniforms
                                                 means that the wearer perspires            merchandising
                                                 less, feels better and is capable of       tents
                                                 greater performance.                       umbrellas


8   colour chronicle 3 | 2008
                                                                                                                                 textile
In Love with Fashion
Dyestuff range: Foron®S-WF

T   oday’s high consumer quality
    awareness in an ever so competitive
textile environment, need special products
to meet the ever growing demands.
Especially in terms of trendy wash and
wear, easy care and soft touch products
(with the increasing use of micro-fiber
articles), highest levels of colour fastness
are required. With the Foron®S-WF
dyestuffs, an evolution of the Foron®S-
type disperse dyes (pioneered by us in
the 1950’s when still operating under the
former Sandoz name), we do not only
meet these requirements, but today can
offer a conclusive range of dyestuffs,
which are able to cover the full scope
of fashion shades. Foron®S-WF with its         Foron® Golden Yellow S-WF                      Foron® Violet S-WF
market leading colour fastness levels and
highest sublimation fastness enhances          0.08%        0.27%       0.80%   2.40%         0.09%        0.32%       0.95%        2.85%
today’s textile products in the apparel,            ®
                                               Foron Red S-WF                                      ®
                                                                                              Foron Cyanine S-WF
workwear and sportswear segments, whilst
giving textile producers state-of-the-         0.19%        0.60%       1.80%   5.40%         0.13%        0.32%       0.97%        2.90%
art process and environmental security.        Foron® Rubine S-WF                             Foron® Blue S-WF

Clariant’s especially developed products       0.40%        0.95%       2.84%   8.52%         0.10%        0.21%       0.63%        1.90%
and processes for colourfast Polyester              ®
                                               Foron Brilliant Yellow S-WF                         ®
                                                                                              Foron Navy S-WF
include:
   A complete range of colourfast              0.14%        0.44%       1.32%   4.00%         0.09%        0.35%       1.06%        3.18%
   dyestuffs; Foron®SWF gives excellent             ®
                                               Foron Scarlet S-WF                                  ®
                                                                                              Foron Black S-WF
   wet-fastness levels, with highest
   sublimation fastness.                       0.09%        0.31%       0.92%   2.76%         0.12%        0.39%       1.18%        3.54%
   The necessary auxiliaries needed for
   reproducible and reliable dyeing e.g.       Properties                                     Scope of Application
   Dispersing agent Lyocol®RDN liquid          The Foron®S-WF dyes are elements with          The Foron®S-WF dyes are recommended
   and Acid buffer Opticid®PSD liquid.         the following special properties:              for the following applications:
   Recommended pre-treatment, dyeing              Highest sublimation fastness, therefore,        Exhaust dyeing of PES/CEL (SWIFT
   and after-treatment processes in               ideal range for yarn dyeing as well as          exhaust process), PES/XLA, PES/
   exhaust and continuous dyeing.                 for continuous applications (Thermosol          CEL/XLA®+ and PES articles that are
                                                  dyeing) and for printing                        being post-set (knitwear) and/or that
Dyestuff criteria for high wet-fastness           Highest wet fastness level after post-          require above average wet fastness
polyester and blends:                             setting (mode of action: increase of            (sportswear)
   High operational reliability                   water solubility in alkaline fastness           Continuous dyeing of PES/CEL
   Very good dispersion stability                 testing liquors, but keeping the                (SWIFT continue process), PES/CEL/
   High to very high sublimation                  chromophore intact)                             XLA®+ and PES articles
   fastnesses for yarns and tops                  Easy clearable (high alkaline solubility,       Printing of PES, PES/XLA®+ and PES/
   High stability in further processing           therefore, no reductive clearing                PUE articles
   steps (e.g. reactive dyeing)                   necessary for articles with little to       ®
                                                                                                + XLA is an elastic polyethylene fiber and is a
   Processing requirements (e.g. for post-        moderate staining like e.g. PES/CEL         trade mark of DOW Chemicals.
   setting)                                       blends; reductive clearing is, however,
   Full scope of elements to cover fashion        necessary for articles with heavy
   shades                                         staining like blends with Spandex®+,
                                                  Lycra®+, XLA®+etc.)

                                                                                                                         colour chronicle 3 | 2008   9
     textile
     title

                                 Some Facts about Light
                                 Fastness                                                       Usage of the article.
                                                                                                Dye-fixers used.
                                                                                                Choice of colours and their combination.
                                                                                                Perspiration and exposure to light.
                                                                                                Prolonged exposure to light.
                                                                                                Oxidative or reductive nature of dye fading
                                                                                                reaction.
                                                                                                Unfortunately, the tag labels on articles do give
                                                                                            wash instruction but the guidance and sustainability
                                                                                            of the article to multiple exposures to light are not
                                                                                            so popular. There are hardly any indicators to guide
                                                                                            the consumer regarding the resistance of the article
                                                                                            towards sunlight fading.

                                                                                            Uncontrollable Factors
                                                                                              Content of UV amount in the sunlight: As more
                                                                                              is the UV component more photons of their light
                                                                                              and more will be the effect on colour with respect
                                                                                              to fading.
                                                                                              The intensity of temperature from the sunlight

                                 T   extile Dyes and Pigments used in the industry
                                     vary to a great extent in terms of their
                                 resistance to light sources and this phenomenon
                                                                                              falling on the article.

                                                                                            Relative Humidty
                                 is called as ‘Light-fastness of Textiles’.                    Higher the humidity, higher could be fading.
                                     Sunlight materials electromagnetic radiations             This factor has impact on the wet-light fastness
                                 of several wavelengths. Visible range of spectrum             and hence fading in varying humid environments
                                 (400 - 700 nm), ultraviolet (300 - 400 nm) and infra          come into the picture.
                                 red (700 - 1400 nm) become the main constituents              Atmospheric contaminations.
                                 which reach to the earth’s surface.                           Amount and quality of perspiration also play a
                                     Coloured materials like Textile, Leather and              crucial role in deciding the amount of fading.
                                 Paper when subjected to the photons generated from            Laundering pattern.
                                 the sunlight have tendency to destroy the colouring           Repeated laundering and exposure to sunlight
                                 constituents of dyes and pigments. Further prolonged          or a single exposure to sunlight also affects the
                                 exposure may even cause destruction to the substrate          degree of fading.
                                 itself. Partial destruction of the colouring material
                                 in dyes and pigment is known as fading. The other          Some Guidelines
                                 detrimental effect could be change of tone or change         Higher the depth, better the light fastness.
                                 of brilliance of the colour.                                 Only right choice of colours can help in getting
                                     A consumer when buys an apparel is attracted             better light fastness and any corrective actions
                                 to the colours and if this colour is altering / fading       would fail to improve the light fastness.
                                 during usage or laundering, the consumer gets                Right choice of textile chemicals to ensure that
                                 frustrated, so it is our responsibility to safeguard and     no detrimental effect of them on the light fastness
                                 guide the processor about the fading behavior of a           of dyed articles occur.
                                 dye/pigment applied on the substrate.                        When use of more than one colour is made in
                                     There are many factors influencing the light              making a shade, the final light fastness of the
                                 fastness behavior.                                           article will be based on the lowest light fastness
                                     Substrate and their diffusion properties.                constituent of the dye in the recipe. This is more
                                     Substrate preparation.                                   important when we want to ensure on-tone
                                     Chemical nature of the fiber.                             behavior of fading after exposure to light (one
                                     Method of the application.                               component fading to smaller extent will give a
                                     Delusterants in the substrate.                           further ugly appearance to the shade than one
                                     Finishing chemicals applied.                             with on-tone fading).

10   colour chronicle 3 | 2008
     leather




     New NMP-free Aqualen® Tops
     by Clariant
                                 S    tate-of-the-art technology for todays’ leather
                                      finishing is based on aqueous products. Clariant’s
                                 efforts to reduce VOC in finishing products have led
                                 to a new solution within the Aqualen® Top Coat range.
                                     Great variety of gloss levels can be reached
                                 by combining Aqualen® Top DC-2050 (dull) and
                                 Aqualen® Top GC-2051 (glossy). This new generation
                                 of easy to handle top coats are distinguished by a
                                 perfect balance of high performance and excellent
                                 aesthetics. Most different looks and feels can
                                 be generated using this product mix alone or in
                                 combination with other ecologically-friendly
                                 Aqualen®/Melio® Tops and/or the versatile Melio®
                                 WF feel additive range. This enables the finisher
                                 to cover a wide range of leather articles. The still
                                 widely used nitro/emulsion lacquer product can
                                 be partly replaced – a further step towards VOC
                                 reduction in leather finishing.
                                     Especially developed for high gloss shoe upper           For aqueous patent leather imitations Clariant
                                 leathers is Aqualen® Top GC-2030.A. Leathers             offers the new Aqualen® Top LN.A. This new
                                 top coated with Aqualen® Top GC-2030.A are               ecological top coat product is developed to meet
                                 distinguished by a very natural and casein-like          highest requirements of both, gloss level and
                                 look and surface feel together with high wet rub         physicals. Leathers finished with Aqualen® Top
                                 properties. Additionally, Aqualen® Top GC-2031 is        LN.A, an aqueous, modified, aliphatic polyurethane
                                 suitable for shoe upper leathers and for high gloss      dispersion, show beautiful brilliance and depth of
                                 fancy and upholstery leathers as well, where even        gloss. The application can be done either by reverse
                                 higher physicals are requested. Both products are        roller coater or by spraying technology. This new
                                 plateable at high temperatures and show a very good      and really helpful characteristic offers quite a lot of
                                 intercoat adhesion together with very good milling       options to the finisher.
                                 behavior.
                                                                                                            Aqualen® Tops:
                                                                                                       The ecological solution for
                                                                                                        perfect leather finishing




12   colour chronicle 3 | 2008
                                                                                 leather


Tanicor® OS-IN p
“Low Free-Formaldehyde”
Replacement Syntan

Features
   Low in “Free-Formaldehyde” content
   Versatile replacement syntan suitable for
   all type of leather
   Good fullness coupled with grain
   tightness
   Uniform Dyeability
   Can be used for dark and pastel shades as
   well.

   Leather traded with Tanicor® OS-IN p
can pass various specifications of “low-free-
formaldehyde” limits when tested by DIN
53315.                                            Tanicor® OS-IN p can also be used with
                                               Clariant’s other “Low Free-Formaldehyde”
                                               products to produce various leather articles.
                                               For the complete list of Clariant’s “Low Free-
                                               Formaldehyde” products, please refer our
                                               product guide.
                                                  Our technical service team would be happy
                                               to be at your service for the development of
                                               “Low Free-Formaldehyde” systems, with
                                               Tanicor® OS-IN p.

                                               Suggested usage of Tanicor®       OS-IN p in
                                               retannage:
                                                   1. For Upper Leathers          : 6 to 10%
                                                   2. For Clothing Nappa          : 4 to 6%
                                                   3. For Cow Bag Leather         : 3 to 5%

                                                  Formaldehyde as a raw material is widely
                                               used in the manufacture of leather chemicals
                                               for condensation of various monomers like
                                               phenol, naphthalene, urea, etc.




                                                                          colour chronicle 3 | 2008   13
                                                                                                                                     paper




 Strength from the Inner Core
 Dry strength solutions by Clariant
Growing use of Recycled Fiber                                                                    Mode of Action

A   large quantity of waste paper and board
    is recycled, providing a relatively
cheap source of cellulosic fiber raw
                                               solubilized material remain in the water
                                               circuits of the paper machine, where they
                                               act as nutrients for bacteria and interfere
                                                                                                 A combination of ionic and hydrogen
                                                                                                 bonding is responsible for the superior
                                                                                                 strength. Starch relies almost entirely on
material for papermaking. Unfortunately,       with the affinity of other paper making            hydrogen bonding for strength development
the quality of fiber in wastepaper is           additives. In the tissue industry, the rigidity   but ionic bonding, which is up to five times
deteriorating, due to increased recycling,     of starch polymers has a negative influence        stronger, allows enhanced performance.
and the dry strength of a paper sheet          on softness and dusting.                          In addition, Cartabond 0701E liquid has
inevitably suffers as a consequence.                                                             strong affinity for cellulosic fibers and
                                               Clariant’s Cationic Polymers Solution             is, therefore, perfectly suited to wet-end
Dry Strength Additives needed                  Achim Kohler (Clariant, Germany)                  application.
Dry strength additives have been available     remembers: “Back in 2004/2005, we
in the paper industry for many years.          identified the growing problems with the           Ahead of the Trend, Indian Product
Natural polymers such as starch, either in     fiber quality of the waste paper. We therefore     Cartabond SR 100 liquid
its native or chemically modified form, have    decided to address the customers’ needs           Cartabond SR 100 liquid is a local
been employed relatively successfully, due     for low cationic, highly concentrated and         alternative to Cartabond 0701E liquid
to their availability and low cost.            efficient products with good absorption. In        available in India. It is a liquid dry strength
     Paper makers around the world want        particular, the low cationic charge of the        resin offering improved tensile strength,
to raise the standards associated with dry     new products developed was intended to            stiffness and burst factor and is specifically
strength, closer to the values achieved with   prevent the fiber charge from flipping to           recommended for stiffness improvement in
virgin fiber. At the same time, they work at    cationic from anionic.”                           copier paper as well as coated paperboards.
lowering the basis weight of a paper sheet,                                                      It can also replace starch, whilst unlike
whilst maintaining an acceptable level of      Newborn in the Range, Cartabond® 0701E            starch, Cartabond SR 100 liquid is not
strength, aiming at major cost benefits         liquid                                            susceptible to microbial attack, thereby
and reducing of the impact of high energy      The most recently developed product of            eliminating the need for preservatives as
prices.                                        the range, Cartabond 0701E liquid, is a           well as environmental concerns.
                                               dry strength additive for stock application           Back in 2004, Indian papermakers were
Starch has its Drawbacks                       under neutral to alkaline paper making            actually a bit in advance in the demand for
There has been a temptation to add             conditions. It is suitable for all paper and      an alternative to strarch. Cartabond SR 100
excessively high amounts of starch             board grades but especially beneficial where       liquid was developed to answer the need. As
because, although low in cost, the strength    recycled fiber is the main raw material.           Rajinikanth Prasad (Clariant, India) recalls:
performance of starch is between 5 and         Typical examples are brown packaging              “we developed a liquid form for a specific
10 times less than a synthetic dry strength    papers manufactured from old corrugated           customer – which happened to be a clear
polymer, on a dry basis. Starch, even in       containers (OCC), tissue produced by              advantage for our local customers”!
its cationized form, has a limited affinity     fully bleached virgin or recycled fibers.
for paper fibers and large quantities of        All strength parameters can be improved,
                                               including burst, tensile, SCT and CMT.

                                                                                                                           colour chronicle 3 | 2008   15
     paper




     Cartacoat® RM Rheology Modifiers
                                 More than just Rheology Modifers                      “Less-is-More” effect

                                 P    roducing coated paper and board for
                                      end-products with a high quality level
                                 needs chemicals that can really do the job.
                                                                                          Cartacoat RM products replace conventional
                                                                                          synthetic rheology modifiers with lower blade
                                                                                          pressure, allowing increased coater speed.
                                     Cartacoat RM is an exclusive range of rheology       Cartacoat RM products make it possible to
                                 modifers, which allows control of high shear and         increase the dry solid content of the coating
                                 low shear viscosity and water retention to achieve       colour, with a positive effect on optical and
                                 superior runability and optimum coating colour           printing properties.
                                 rheology. Cartacoat RM products can be used for          Cartacoat RM products can replace CMC
                                 instance for blade coating or MSP applications with      partially or totally, offering the possibility to in-
                                 all kind of paper and board grades.                      crease the amount of PVOH or starch as an OBA
                                     The Cartacoat RM series combines the features        carrier, in order to improve whiteness.
                                 expected from such products, whilst allowing
                                 substantial savings in your production costs.         Signifcant Benefits for your System
                                                                                          Up to 30 % cost savings in thickener system
                                 Optimized Chemistry                                      Improved coating colours and runability
                                 The thickening mechanism of Cartacoat RM                  - Lower dosage needed to reach the targeted
                                 rheology modifiers, as shown in the illustration              Brookfield viscosity
                                 below, comprises of two steps:                            - Better high shear profile
                                    Expansion of macro-chains, due to high                 - Improved water retention at lower dosage
                                    electrostatic charge repulsion
                                    Inter-molecular attraction facilitates formation      Improved paper and print quality
                                    of a 3-D network                                       - Positive effect on paper gloss
                                                                                           - Slightly improved smoothness
                                                                                           - Other properties equal (mottling, ink
                                                                                             absorption and surface strength)



                                                                                       The effect of
                                                                                       Cartacoat RM
                                                                                       products on
                                                                                       viscosity and shear
                                                                                       rates can be seen
                                                                 Carbon group          on the graph at the
                                                                 Hydrophobic group     adjacent.




16   colour chronicle 3 | 2008
                                                                                                                                   paper




Complete Range for Every Specific Need                   Dynamic Water Retention
Cartacoat RM 8 liquid
Cartacoat RM 8 liquid is a water retention aid for
paper and board coating colour with small effect on
low shear and high shear viscosity. Cartacoat RM
8 liquid improves the paper properties by reducing
water penetration into the base sheet. Cartacoat RM
8 liquid is FDA and BfR compliant.

Cartacoat RM 12 liquid
Cartacoat RM 12 liquid allows good water retention
and increases both low and high shear viscosity.

Cartacoat RM 15 liquid
Cartacoat RM 15 liquid is especially suitable in
the manufacturing of coated board and packaging                                                                 ACAV
paper, offering a good balance between Brookfield
viscosity and water retention. Cartacoat RM 15
liquid is FDA and BfR compliant.
                                                         DT coater
Cartacoat RM 20 liquid
Cartacoat RM 20 liquid shows optimal high shear          World-class Laboratory Facilities
properties with high Brookfield viscosity. Small             From laboratory studies to pilot coating trial
dosing levels are needed. Cartacoat RM 20 liquid         to mill trial, our laboratory facilities in France
has low influence on high shear viscosity and low         offer high-end equipment and expertise.
blade pressure.
                      Low shear viscosity   High shear viscosity      Water retention       Dosing levels (*)
Cartacoat RM 8                                                                 (        )      0.5 – 2.0
                                                                                                                ÅA-GWR
Cartacoat RM 12                                                                                0.1 – 1.0
Cartacoat RM 15                                                                                0.2 – 1.5
Cartacoat RM 20                                                                                0.05 – 1.0

                     = high influence            = medium influence         = some influence           = no influence
(*) parts per 100 parts pigments as it is




                                                                                                                         colour chronicle 3 | 2008   17
                                                                                                             GOTS approved list

Result of Assessment of Dye / Processing aid for the use in EKO
Sustainable Textile Standard (GOTS system)
 Name dye/Proc. aid             Date of Approved    Name dye/Proc. aid               Date of Approved    Name dye/Proc. aid                Date of Approved
                               approval Yes / No                                    approval Yes / No                                     approval Yes / No
 Ceranine SWPI liq             25/06/2007   Yes     Imerol NLF. IN liq [ Formerly   22/01/2008   Yes     Ceraperm AQUA liq               13/03/2008       Yes
 Diresul Antioxidant PRM liq   25/06/2007   Yes     (Sandoclean NLF. IN liq) ]                           Drimaren Red CL BL              13/03/2008       Yes
 Drimaren Turquoise CL-B p     13/03/2007   Yes     Leomin PNLI liq [ Formerly      22/01/2008   Yes     Drimaren Red CL-B p             13/03/2008       Yes
                                                    (Sandosoft PNLI liq) ]
 Sirrix 2 UD. IN liq           13/08/2007   Yes                                                          Drimaren Yellow CL-R p          13/03/2008       Yes
                                                    Ceralube JNF. IN liq            22/01/2008   Yes
 Drimaren Navy X-GN. IN        06/09/2007   Yes                                                          Ladiquest DWA liq               13/03/2008       Yes
                                                    Formerly (Sandolube
 Drimaren Red X-6 BN p         06/09/2007   Yes     JNF. IN liq)                                         Leomin SFC liq                  13/03/2008       Yes
 Drimaren Yellow X-4RNI p      06/09/2007   Yes     Ceralube HD. IN liq             22/01/2008   Yes     Printofix Navy R-B              13/03/2008       Yes
 Leonil UH liq                 06/09/2007   Yes     Formerly (Sandolube                                  Printofix Violet R-B            13/03/2008       Yes
 Sirrix Antox IN liq           06/09/2007   Yes      HD. IN liq)                                         Printofix Black R-NG liq        13/11/2007       Yes
 Imacol C2G.IN liq             12/10/2007   Yes     Imerol MWP liq c [ Formerly     22/01/2008   Yes     Printofix Blue R-BN             20/03/2007       Yes
                                                    (Sandoclean MWP liq c) ]
 Sirrix N liq c                12/10/2007   Yes                                                          Ceraperm TSLF liq               11/06/2008       Yes
                                                    Ladipur SN liq [ Formerly       22/01/2008   Yes
 Ceraperm K.IN liq             12/10/2007   Yes                                                          Ceraperm 3P liq hc              11/06/2008       Yes
                                                    (Sandopur SN liq) ]
 Stabilizer AWN.IN liq         12/10/2007   Yes                                                          Reductor D. IN p                11/06/2008       Yes
                                                    Optisul HSI liq                 22/01/2008   Yes
 Stabilizer FCB.IN liq c       12/10/2007   Yes                                                          Stabilizer 3Z liq               11/06/2008       Yes
                                                    Formerly (Sandozol HSI liq)
 Sirrix SB.IN liq              12/10/2007   Yes                                                          Sirrix SAI liq c                12/06/3008       Yes
                                                    Stabilizer SIFA. IN lq          11/02/2008   Yes
 Appretan ECO liq              12/10/2007   Yes                                                          Hostalux ETB. IN liq            17/06/2008       Yes
                                                    Imerol SR liq                   11/02/2008   Yes
 Imerol XN.IN liq              04/08/2007   Yes                                                          Leucophor BMF. IN liq           17/06/2008       Yes
                                                    Stabilizer SOF. IN liq          11/02/2008   Yes
 Rintofix Thickener CA liq     13/11/2007   Yes                                                          Leucophor BMB. IN liq           17/06/2008       Yes
                                                    Diresul Black RDT-S-IN liq      11/02/2008   Yes
 Revatol S.IN p                13/11/2007   Yes     Formerly (Diresul Black                              Leucophor BFB. IN liq           17/06/2008       Yes
 Sirrix N liq                  13/11/2007   Yes     RDT liq)                                             Appretan PUL liq                29/07/2008       Yes
 Stabilizer SIFAM.IN liq       13/11/2007   Yes     Drimaren Blue HF-2B cdg         12/02/2008   Yes     Ceraperm MN liq                 29/07/2008       Yes
 Printofix Binder 1912 PLUS    14/12/2007   Yes     Ladipur R3C. IN ip liq          12/02/2008   Yes     Mercerol QWNI. IN liq           29/07/2008       Yes
 Printofix Binder ITL liq      14/12/2007   Yes     Drimaren Navy CL-R p            12/02/2008   Yes     Mercerol RWLF liq               29/07/2008       Yes
 Hostapal DTC. IN liq          22/01/2008   Yes     Arkofil PVS p                   13/03/2008   Yes     Sirrix CPA liq                  29//07/2008      Yes
 Formerly (Sandopan                                 Arkofil S 100 p                 13/03/2008   Yes     Sirrix USB liq                  29/07/2008       Yes
 DTC. IN liq)
                                                    Ceraperm 3P PLUS liq            13/03/2008   Yes




Global Organic Textile Standard
T   he latest version of the Global
    Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
launched in June, sees some significant
                                                       complex dyes to produce blue, green
                                                       and turquoise shades to a depth of 5%
                                                       owf.
                                                                                                        R50, very toxic to aquatic organisms;
                                                                                                        R51, toxic to aquatic organisms; R52,
                                                                                                        harmful to aquatic organism; R53, may
changes for the wet processors of organic              The above clauses are to be reviewed             cause long term adverse effects in the
textiles. The changes note as follows:             in two years from date of adoption. If,              aquatic environment. However, GOTS
   Optical brighteners are now allowed             at that time, copper complex dyes are                states that as R51-R53 may lead to a loss
   to be used, allowing all retailers to           no longer permitted this would cause a               in dyeing quality, the use of these will
   produce organic cotton products in a            problem for dyers producing the shades               be optional until the next revision of the
   bright white.                                   mentioned and would therefore limit                  standard. This is a confusing situation that
   Quaternary ammonium compounds –                 the shades available for the retailers of            may leave many dyers unclear about the
   which are known to improve the colour           organic products. Another change of note             dyes and chemicals that can be used; it
   fastness of dyed goods - are prohibited         is that acceptable levels of formaldehyde            is recommended that in the certification
   except for auxilaries used during the           on organic textiles have been reduced                process these parameters should be
   dyeing process, provided they meet all          from 20 mg/kg to 16 mg/kg in line with               controlled, documented and reported.
   other GOTS criteria.                            Japanese law.                                                                source: www.colourclick.org;
   Heavy metals are prohibited with a                  There is also a clause not to allow                                        GOTS v 2.0 is available at:
                                                                                                                                    www.global-standard.org
   specific exception for copper metal              products with the following risk phrases:

                                                                                                                                         colour chronicle 3 | 2008   19
     new arrivals




     Additions in Local Range Global
     Printofix® Red T-B                                  Foron® Scarlet S-WF
                                                                                                          Launches
     Bright Red Dispersion from                          High wet fast disperse dye                       Afilan® PSE liquid
                                                                                                          Afilan® PSE liq. is a spin finish
     Global Printofix Range                              for red and scarlet shades                       suitable for polyamide 6 and 6.6 high
     Product Performance                                 suitable for dyeing polyester                    tenacity industrial yarns for example
        Highly concentrated pigment.                     and its blends.                                  tyre-cord, tarpaulins, seat belts,
        Good dispersion stability even below 0°C.                                                         conveyer belts etc. Afilan PSE liq.
        Very little influence on viscosity of             Product Performance                              is a proprietory blend of heat stable
        synthetic thickener.                                High wet fastness. Low staining on            lubricants, emulsifiers and antistats.
        High dry cleaning fastness.                         multifiber even on post heat set fabric.           Is usually applied as an aqueous
        High thermal stability.                             Can be applied in exhaust, printing and           solution (e.g. 15-25 %) with the
        Suitable for discharge printing.                    continuous application.                           usual devices.
        Suitable for all types of printing application      Main element for wet fast fire shade in            Is a very thermostable spin
        i.e., aqueous, semi-aqueous and solvent             combination with Foron Brilliant Yellow           finish.
        base.                                               S-WF, Foron Golden Yellow S-WF, and               Forms very low smoke and shows
        Does not contribute in gelling of printing          Foron Red S-WF.                                   nearly no deposits on the godets.
        paste.                                              High sublimation fastness even at 210°C.          Runs well in drawing processes
                                                            Good dispersing and leveling properties.          and has a good fiber/fiber
                                                                                                              cohesion.
     Printofix® Yellow T-C                                                                                    Owns excellent wetting and
                                                         Foron® Violet S-WF                                   spreading properties.
     Lemon Yellow Dispersion from
     Global Printofix Range.                             High wet fast disperse dye                       Afilan® ONE liq
     Product Performance                                 for violet shades suitable                       Easy    applicable     fiber     finish
        Bright lemon yellow shade.                       for dyeing polyester and its                     and lubricant for use in fiber
        High pigment concentration.                                                                       manufacturing of polysulfonamide
        Very little influence on viscosity of
                                                         blends.                                          and aramide fibers.
        synthetic thickener.                             Product Performance                                 Excellent lubricating properties.
        High dry cleaning fastness.                         High wet fastness. Low staining on               Good antistatic properties.
        High thermal stability.                             multifiber even on post heat set fabric.          Improves fiber/fiber cohesion and
        Suitable for discharge printing.                    Can be applied in exhaust, printing and          reduces fiber/metal friction.
        Suitable for all types of printing application      continuous application.                          Excellent wetting properties.
        i.e., aqueous, semi-aqueous and solvent             Main element for wet fast violet and purple      Good thermostability.
        base.                                               shade in combination with Foron Blue             Each     component      of    this
        Does not contribute in gelling of printing          S-WF and Foron Rubine S-WF.                      formulation is listed in one or
        paste.                                              High sublimation fastness even at 210°C.         several parts of 21.CFR.170-199
                                                            Good dispersing and leveling properties.         (FDA).




20   colour chronicle 3 | 2008
Foron® Black AS-3LF                                                                           and water-repellent finishes on textiles
New disperse black Dyestuff for high-fast        Allows to reduce the dyeing time and/        made from cellulosic as well as synthetic
applications.                                    or the dyeing temperature.                   fibers and their blends.
   High light-fast and hot-light-fast black      Improves the reservation of the                 Fluorocarbon technology with a
   disperse dyestuff.                            cellulosic part by dyeing polyester/            polyamide based cationic copolymer.
   High            strength           (30%       cellulose blends.                               This copolymer improves significantly
   stronger      than     Foron      Black       Improves the in-out levelness in                the efficiency of fluorocarbons.
   AS-LF) and build-up.                          package dyeing mac hines.                       Economical product to achieve high
   Neutral shade under different light           Is suitable for levelling and partial           water and oil repellency.
   sources (D65/TL84/A).                         stripping of faulty dyeings.                    Provides excellent initial repellencies
   Low colour fading post exposure.              Does not affect the wet fastnesses and          as well as good durability.
   Suitable for all commonly required            has no or minimal effect on the usual           Excellent product to be incorporated
   automotive light-fastness standards.          light fastness.                                 into a resin finishing bath.
   Excellent sublimation fastness upto           Does not develop an unpleasant odor             Shows high compatibility with finishing
   180°C/30sec.                                  during dyeing or drying.                        chemicals and fire retardants.
   Very good combinability with UV-              Is non foaming.                                 Provides a relatively soft handle.
   absorbers (Fadex®).                                                                           Mainly recommended for cellulose
   Suitable as base element for Coldblack®    Arkofix® ELF liq conc                              based fibers.
   applications.                              Ultra low formaldehyde containing cross            Cationic.
                                              linking agent for the easy care finishing of
Foron® Dark Blue S-WF                         textiles of cellulosic fibers and their blends   Solusoft® FE liquid
New disperse blue dyestuff for high wet-      with synthetic fibers.                           A special silicone macro emulsion for
fast applications.                                Has a free formaldehyde content below       padding. Best rubbing fastness level on
    High wet-fast dark blue disperse              0.1 %.                                      pigment printed textiles.
    dyestuff.                                     Produces particularly low formaldehyde         Supplies specific “glacier” handfeel.
    Excellent build-up.                           finishing effects. Meets the requirements       Elegant surface smoothness.
    Neutral (greenish) shade .                    of consumer labels such as Eco-Tex             Improves rubbing fastness (dry and
    No reddish flare under artificial light         Standard 100 for textiles worn next to         wet) of pigment printed fabrics.
    sources (TL84/CWF).                           the skin (<75 ppm formaldehyde on              Best silicone softener to improve
    Excellent cotton reserve.                     the goods). This applies particularly to       sewing properties.
    Good clearability above pH 9.                 the assessment methods as described in         Nonionic character, thus no yellowing
    Leading sublimation fastness upto             Japan Law 112-1973.                            on white.
    210°C/30sec., (rating 4.9 GS).                Imparts excellent crease and shrink-           No influence on thermomigration.
                                                  resistant properties to textiles of            Improves elasticity and resilience of
Eganal® PLM liquid                                cellulosic fibers and their blends.             knitwear.
New dyeing assistant for exhaust dyeing           Gives excellent strength retention             Highly wash stable.
of polyester and its blends with cellulosic       and therefore is recommended for               Improves technological properties
fibers injets and package dyeing machines          application to knitwear and lighter            in resin finish such as tear strength,
under HT conditions.                              cotton articles.                               abrasion.
   Improves dispersion stability of the           On 100% cotton the finishing effects            Improves crease recovery angles and
   dyes in the bath.                              are not stable to chlorine.                    DP-rate in resin finish.
   Ensures good penetration and increased                                                        Recommended to use in acidic
   colour yield.                              Nuva® 1910 liq                                     conditions ( pH <6).
   Improves coverage of materials with        Nuva® 1910 liq is an economical but highly
   different affinity.                         efficient finishing product for durable oil

                                                                                                                     colour chronicle 3 | 2008   21
     inside views




                                                           P. Gayatri being welcomed by Mr. A. Karmarkar at Kolhapur Meet.




     Technical Conferences during the Last
                                   T   echnological Skills and Partnerships based on
                                       active dialogue with customers are key elements
                                   in the building of a successful relationship. Keeping
                                                                                             fabric, chemicals from Clariant’s range enhance
                                                                                             both the physical appearance and performance of
                                                                                             the end–product.
                                   this as the focus various technical conferences              Mr. Jochen Schmidt, Head, Business Line
                                   were held all over the country as narrated below:         Functional Effects, Clariant International Ltd.,
                                                                                             discussed in detail about the various products
                                   Surat, June 19, 2008                                      which can be offered to the processors in Surat. He
                                   At the conference, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad, Country          highlighted on the ‘Emerging Trends in Finishing
                                   Head of Textile, Leather & Paper Chemicals                with Clariant’s Technology’, consisting of silicone
                                   Division, Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited,             based products like, concentrated specialty finishing
                                   emphasized that Clariant has developed cost effective     agents which can be easily diluted and used as in-
                                   processing packages for polyester dyeing, printing        house formulations to a high cost advantage. Mr.
                                   and finishing chemicals. Ecological demands are            Schmidt also highlighted on the Technical Textiles
                                   also being catered to by our experts. Clariant has        and stressed on the concept of Flame Retardants and
                                   also introduced innovative finishes like moisture          Stain Management.
                                   management, which gives polyester a comfortable
                                   feel, while imparting a protective finish against          Kolkata, June 24, 2008
                                   bacteria and fungi. Fluorocarbons from Clariant,          An this occasion, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad, emphasized
                                   speciality silicones and innovative prints like gold      that Clariant offers complete solutions for the
                                   zari were elaborated upon during the conference.          processing of knits, garment washing, pigment
                                   With the textile and apparel industry always on the       printing and in jute related processing. He stressed
                                   lookout for new finishes and aesthetic values on the       on the benefits of Ecoswat Concept, highlighting the



     A.K. Prasad interacting with customers in Kolhapur.                          The Ludhiana Meet participants.




22   colour chronicle 3 | 2008
  Detailed analysis in Bengaluru.                  Asis Patnaik at the Bengaluru Meet.




Quarter
  use of right technology for optimization of energy,   discussed the problems related to effluent treatment.
  water and effluent management. He explained the        He discussed in detail the garment washing process
  Black Magic Process, which is a bleaching concept     incorporating biotechnology, wherein he enlightened
  involving process efficiency with economy using        the customers with the enzyme processing of the
  ecological concept. He discussed in detail the        garments. The new concepts such as Cold Black
  garment washing process using biotechnology,          and Nanosphere by Clariant were discussed during
  wherein he enlightened the customers with the         the meet. Concept of REACH was explained to
  enzyme processing of the garments. He also            the customers. Mr. Prasad also discussed with the
  highlighted the leaning of prossessors towards        customers, the main reasons for price increase and
  the latest trends in Technical Textiles offered by    ensured them that Clariant will always be with the
  Clariant, such as ultra low formaldehyde based        customers in these difficult times.
  binders, non-PFOA concept of fluorocarbons. Effect
  labels from Clariant were also touched upon in the    Kolhapur, August 4, 2008
  presentation.                                         At this conference, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad, emphasized
                                                        that Clariant offers complete Solutions for Sizing
  Ludhiana, July 31, 2008                               and technologies related to entire processing of
  At this occasion, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad emphasized     textile. He discussed about the new applications in
  that Clariant offers complete solutions for the       sizing and also the GOTS approved products related
  processing of knits, garment washing, enzyme          to sizing. Technologies for continuous processings
  technology, denim washing and related technologies.   such as bleaching, dyeing and finishing were
  Drimaren Dyes were offered as a solution for all      highlighted upon along with speciality finishes. He
  the problems related to the Dyeing technology. He     stressed that Clariant has a wide range of products



             Jochen Schmidt at the Surat Meet.




                                                                                                               colour chronicle 3 | 2008   23
     inside views
                                                                                         Chandigarh, July 24, 2008
                                                                                         During this conference, Mr. Anjani Prasad,
                                                                                         emphasized that Clariant has been playing a crucial
                                                                                         role in offering technology and new products for
                                                                                         value addition. Clariant has been offering eco-
                                                                                         friendly dyes and chemicals. Clariant is well-known
                                                                                         as a quality supplier having complete range of
                                                                                         specialty chemicals for almost all the fibers. Highly
                                                                                         skilled technicians from Clariant are at arms length
                                                                                         to solve day to day problems of the textile processors.
                                                                                         Mr. Prasad enlightened the processors about new
                                                                                         product processes, technology, innovations and
                                                                                         specialty needs for exports. We believe in providing
                                                                                         solutions than selling products, was his key mantra.
                                 Anjani Prasad, Head - TLP Division, India, at           He stressed on the fact that the techno economy of
                                 the Ludhiana Meet.                                      a processor is always at the back of our mind while
                                 and depending upon consumer needs Clariant can          making recommendations.
                                 offer cost and process effective recipes. Clariant is       Mr. Shailesh Moolya, in-charge, Technical
                                 shortly launching GOTS certified amylase Bactosol        Promotion of Wool/Silk/Nylon Dyes and Chemicals,
                                 MTO for organic cotton processing. He discussed         explained in detail about the technology of silk
                                 about the special areas of hydrophilic silicones        processing and how Clariant is with the customer
                                 and lubricants offered by Clariant. Specialty areas     right from dye dissolution, printing, steaming upto
                                 such as ultra low formaldehyde based binders; anti-     the washing-off of silk.
                                 microbial solutions and the non-PFOA concept of
                                 fluorocarbons were discussed.                            Bengaluru, August 26, 2008
                                                                                         Mr. Asis Patnaik, Head, Functional Effects and
                                 Varanasi, August 22, 2008                               Polymer Dispersion, Textile Business, Clariant
                                 Here, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad, said that Clariant has      Chemicals (India) Limited, spoke on the topic,
                                 developed cost effective processing packages for        “Polymer Dispersion – Yesterday and Tomorrow”.
                                 dyeing, printing and finishing chemicals. Clariant       He explained about the requirements in an emulsion,
                                 not only helps in setting-up the processes or the       for the future. According to Mr. Patnaik, the perfect
                                 chemistry involved for textile processing, but          product for tomorrow would include a Controlled
                                 also updates its customers on the “how-to-do-           Particle Size, Bimodal Particles with High Solid
                                 it” ecologically, economically, efficiently and in       Content, Low Volatile Organic Compounds and
                                 an environment friendly manner. He stressed on          Controlled Molecular Weight Products. He discussed
                                 Clariant’s role in reaching out to its customers as     the history and future of various emulsions and their
                                 well as their end-consumer.                             applications including the Nano emulsions.




                                   Mr. Anup K. Baranwal (Authorised distributor, CCIL - Textile Business)
                                   started looking after the family business at the tender age of 16 years when his
                                   father fell seriously ill.
                                       In the course he took distribution agency of Sandoz (India) Ltd. in year
                                   1992. The average sale of the company in Bhadohi / Mirzapur region was only
                                   40 lacs per annum. Mr. Baranwal gradually increased the sale to Rs. 2.35 crores
                                   per annum by the year 2006. The level of sale of Rs. 2 crores was maintained
                                   despite turbulences in the market.
                                       Mr. Anup’s demise has created a big vacuum in the family and it will be a      Late Mr. Anup Kumar
                                   tough task to live up to his performance. We are confident that in these distinct   Baranwal
                                   times his dedicated employees will maintain the momentum generated by him          (Proprietor, M/s. Prabha
                                   and increase the success of his company.                                           Colour Company).
                                                                                                                      Left to Heavenly Abode on
                                       We pray to the almighty to give peace to the departed soul.
                                                                                                                      July 22, 2008.


24   colour chronicle 3 | 2008
                                                                                                 gleanings from press




Textiles: The Silent Witness
Fibers                                                  Fabrics / Garments
                                                        Sometimes, the victim’s clothing is one of the few
                                                        clues left to tell us what happened. “In cases where,
                                                        the body of the victim has been buried for some years,
                                                        and only the (victim’s) skeleton remains, elements
                                                        of the victim’s clothing may have survived. This
                                                        clothing can be examined for cuts and tears, bullet
                                                        holes, and other penetration wounds. Such evidence
                                                        may assist the coroner with establishing the cause of
                                                        death and the weapon used,” notes Mike Pailthorpe,
                                                        Senior Consultant for the Food and Textiles group
                                                        of the Sydney, Australia.
While fabrics and finished textile products are
often valuable evidence, the most important textile     Antimicrobal Finish exhibits
witnesses are fibers. “Most of the information we
learn is gathered from fibers and threads,” says Skip
                                                        Washfastness with no
Palenik, a Forensic Consultant, Senior Research         Binder
Microscopist and President of Microtrace LLC.           Sanitized Silver works by damaging the cell
“Fiber evidence can be critical to investigations –     membranes and inhibiting the growth and
it is not going too far to say that lives have been     reproduction of bacteria responsible for odor
saved because of forensic fiber examinations,” says      development in textiles. The finish was developed
Houck, Director of Forensic Science Initiative and      specifically for use on synthetic fibers. The company
Research Office Manager for Forensic Research            says these fibers, especially polyester, are the
Business Development at the College of Business         preferred material for sport, leisure, and work wear
and Economic at West Virginia University,               – all sectors which demand high wash resistance. It
    “Fibers are shed by rope, carpets, blankets,        claims that “upto 100 washing cycles at 60°C are
upholstery, and many other items,” says You-Lo          possible without
Hsieh, Professor of Fiber and Polymer Science           impairing          the
at the University of California, Davis, who also        hygienic function
advises student research in the university’s forensic   (of the finish)”.
science graduate program. Fiber evidence may be         Sanitized      Silver
used to corroborate witness statements, establish       can be applied
someone’s presence at the scene of a crime, or          to the textile by
provide investigative leads, says Bloch.                exhaust or pad
    Palenik explains that forensic scientists rely on   processes, making
Edmond Locard’s Exchange Principle when looking         it suitable for fully-
at fiber evidence. Simply put, the principle states      fashioned knitwear
that whenever two objects come into contact, there      and other fabric
is always an exchange of material. That exchange        or apparel. It can
of material can establish an association (or lack       also be combined
association) between two objects or persons, says       with other textile
Bloch.                                                  effects.

                                                                                                                 colour chronicle 3 | 2008   25
     gleanings from press

                                                                                              However, the specific finish has not yet been
                                 Wellness Fabric                                          perfected. Based on cyclodextrine technology, the
                                 In Europe, “wellness” has evolved into a real mega-      auxiliary has to be applied via fixation of an easy care
                                 trend. Over the years, the number of wellness            resin, which unfortunately gives the textile a hand.
                                 hotels offering wellness treatments have increased.      Additionally, the tiny storage units of cyclodextrine
                                 Restaurants put wellness dishes on their menu,           have to be reloaded after they have delivered their
                                 claiming beneficial effects for the diners’ personal      contents to the skin. So if a consumer asks for a
                                 well being. Furthermore, the number of food items        continuous dispersing of the anti-aging substance,
                                 and beverages bearing the term “wellness” in their       he or she must reload the textile by adding a special
                                 names has become nearly countless. Hence, the            compound (created by the supplier itself) to the final
                                 creation of wellness textiles was only a matter of       rinsing bath in the washing machine.
                                 time.
                                     Since 2003, the textile industry has created the
                                 technology to construct an entire wellness fabric
                                                                                          Indian Silk industry hit by
                                 by using a “wellness fiber.” Five years ago, this         Chinese ‘quake.’
                                 fiber was presented at the Heimtextil trade show          Indian silk industry with an annual business of over
                                 in Frankfurt, Germany, for the first time. SeaCell        Rs. 10,000 crore has been hit hard by the earthquake
                                 fibers can be generated from Lyocell, a cellulosic        in the recent past in China, a major supplier of raw
                                 man-made fiber, by adding finely-ground seaweed,           silk for the manufacturing units in the country.
                                 mainly from the family of brown, red, green and blue         The industry claimed that hundreds of units in
                                 algae, into the spinning solution. This wellness fiber    Varanasi, Bengaluru, Madurai, Coimbatore and
                                 tends to be unique in its well being effect. Extensive   Bhagalpur have closed down as the raw material
                                 clinical testing at Jena University (Germany)            costs of silk have gone up by upto 40 per cent
                                 proved that minerals from the seaweed are being          and over one lakh persons engaged in the sector
                                 constantly released in a humid atmospheres. So are       have lost jobs after the earthquake in the Sichaun
                                 carotenoides and amino acids, as well as vitamins        province of China. Sichuan is the primary supplier
                                 E and C. Owing to this behavior in wet conditions,       of raw silk yarn and dupion to Indian manufacturers
                                 SeaCell is mainly used for terry towels, bath gowns,     of silk products. Majority of the mulberry gardens
                                 shirts and blouses, socks, and sleepwear.                have been destroyed due to the quake, which has led
                                                                                          to a sharp fall in production in India.
                                                                                              “The earthquake and subsequent floods in Sichuan
                                                                                          has affected the import prices of raw material, which
                                                                                          have gone up by about 30-40 per cent,” Indian Silk
                                                                                          Export Promotion Council Chairman, T.V Maruthi
                                                                                          said. Further, he said the industry has also been hit
                                                                                          by increasing transportation costs due to hike in fuel
                                                                                          prices apart from labour and other costs.


                                                                                          China’s Garment Export
                                                                                          Growth slows down
                                                                                          From January to May this year, China exported a total
                                 Anti-aging Properties                                    value of $66.16 billion of textiles and garments, upto
                                                                                          15.4% from the same period of last year, according
                                 answer a Mania for Youth                                 to the Chinese Customs office. Of the sum, about
                                 Vitamin E is the basis of an interesting wellness        $26.07 billion was textile products, upto 26.3%, and
                                 finish on textiles. Due to its ability to bind free       $40.09 billion was garments and accessories, upto
                                 radicals, vitamin E has anti-aging, moisturizing,        9.3%. The textile exports of China regained its fast
                                 and anti-oxidative abilities. Responding to the          growth, while garment exports faced a much weaker
                                 worldwide prevalent mania for youth, it could            demand abroad. Industry players said that the weak
                                 become the number one finish for all kinds of             overseas consumer demand had affected the cotton
                                 textiles and clothing: underwear and sleepwear,          sector in China. The country imported 240,200 tons
                                 bed-linen and terry towels, blouses and stockings,       of cotton this May, a decrease of 23,200 tons, or
                                 sportwear and denim.                                     8.81 from the previous months.

26   colour chronicle 3 | 2008
                                                                                                      gleanings from press
                                                                                                  AUSTRALIA: Lightweight
New Clariant Global Carpet Center offers                                                          MerinoCool Fabrics
‘Under-One-Roof’ facility for Customers                                                           Launched | Source: just-style.com




A    new facility that consolidates
     Clariant’s leading application services
and expertise for customers in the carpet
                                               carpet samples illustrating different types
                                               and colouration effects.
                                                   Also at the new center, customers’
                                                                                                  N    ew lightweight woven fabrics
                                                                                                       made from Australian Merino
                                                                                                  fibers were launched on September
industry was formally inaugurated at           production processes can be imitated for           25, 2008 for soft tailored suits and
Louvain-la-Neuve, south of Brussels            trialing or problem solving. New products          separates as well as smart casual apparel.
in Belgium, on September 19, 2008.             and developments can be demonstrated,                  The MerinoCool fabrics, developed by
    The state-of-the-art Carpet Center         and training is available. Masterbatches,          Australian Wool Innovation (AWI), are
underpins Clariant’s position as a supplier    also used in the carpet industry, is adjacent      less than 165gsm and respond naturally
of the full range of dyes and chemicals for    to the new center.                                 to environmental and body temperature
all aspects of carpet processing (from yarn        Recent innovative developments for the         changes.
spinning, dyeing and printing, to finishing     center have included bright highfast dyes              This means they keep the wearer either
and backing).                                  for jet printing, and new C6 fluorocarbon           warm or cool depending on the ambient
    It brings the company’s colouration        products with high dry soil-release are in         temperature or wearing situation and are
and finishing facilities and know-how           advanced stages.                                   suitable for year-round wear.
under one roof, a feature that is attractive       Ivan De Langhe, Head of the Clariant               AWI CEO Craig Welsh says: “Today’s
to customers because they can discuss the      Global Carpet Center, says: “It is a great         consumers - particularly in the major
whole chain in carpet production at one        advantage for customers to have the                markets of Europe, the US and Japan -
place and with one company.                    different facilities and knowledge in one          want lightweight clothes. People want to
    Facilities include an application          place. With the facilities we have, covering       feel comfortable, and in the contemporary
laboratory, machinery for rotary and jet       all applications in the industry, this new         built environment they don’t actually need
printing, steamers, a gum applicator,          facility will be an attractive proposition for     clothes for protection or to keep warm.”
different types of exhaust dyeing machines,    customers seeking one-stop solutions.”                 More than 15 global supply chain
foam application, continuous dryer, quality        Belgium was chosen for the location of         partners are involved in the MerinoCool
and fastness testing equipment, and a          the facility because of the country’s pre-         project, which targets the smart casual
customer showroom with more than 300           eminence in the industry – it is world’s           market in Italy, France, Japan, Korea, India
                                               biggest carpet producer after the US.              and China.

                                                                            Printed and Published by
Feedback ?                                                                  Prabhat Trivedi, on behalf of Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited
Send your suggestions/entries to                                            Design by Point-n-Pixel
sujata.pariti@clariant.com                                                  Printed by Multiple Images

                                                                            Chief Editor:           Prabhat Trivedi

Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited                                          Editorial Co-ordinator: Sujata Pariti
                                                                            Editorial Board:        Rajinikanth Prasad, Hitendra Parekh,
www.clariant.in                                                                                     Sunil Joshi, Sanjay Sathe and Sunil Kadam


                                                                                                                                colour chronicle 3 | 2008   27

				
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