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					How To Wash Your Car

You’ve spent plenty of money the purchase of your
car or truck, now the question arises, ‘How do I
take care of it?”. The answer is vital to retaining the
value of your vehicle and reducing future costs due
to premature deterioration.

Much has been written on how to properly maintain
a vehicles appearance and while most of the tips in
this article certainly aren’t new, perhaps they may
help you think about things in a different light.

Vehicle enthusiasts range from those who
religiously wash or quick detail their vehicles daily,
to those who love caring for their vehicle but only
get the chance to wash them weekly or bi-weekly. Both categories of enthusiasts cringe at the
very thought of taking their car or truck to a car wash, otherwise known as “automatic swirl
factories”. In this article I hope to give you some ideas and tips that will help you maintain your
vehicles appearance and teach you ways to avoid, or at least minimize creating swirl marks.



CAR WASH MITTS

Ask a group of car enthusiasts which company makes better car or truck? Ford, Chevrolet,
Dodge, Honda, Toyota, Lexus, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche or Audi? You will get a variety of
different answers; everyone has his or her opinion! To say that everyone has a favorite is an
understatement yet there are some basic fundamentals that make an item one of the best for its
intended purpose.

Wash mitts can be microfiber style (both short nap and the longer fuzzy monster looking type),
sponges, synthetic and genuine sheepskin. I tend to lean towards the ridiculously plush genuine
wool wash mitts. They are soft, hold lots of water and car wash shampoo and they rinse cleanly.
You want to avoid shop rags, old t-shirts, and beach towels as the nap, or thickness of these
items is so small that you can easily exert too much force onto the wash surface and
inadvertently push surface dirt around instilling “washing swirls.” Also, these wash “rags” do not
release trapped dirt as easily. The thicker mitts offer room for dirt to hide that is away from your
car until your mitt is rinsed.




CAR WASH BUCKETS
In choosing a bucket you generally have two choices, 5 gallon or 3.5 gallon. Usually the 3.5
gallon is just too small to get the job done with plenty of fresh car wash solution but with water
weighing 8.35 pounds per gallon it is difficult to lug the 5 gallon bucket around your car. The
solution is the Wolfgang Professional Car Wash Bucket on wheels! This bucket will make it
much easier to quickly wash your entire car. It even comes with a lid so you can store your car
wash shampoo, mitt and brushes right inside the bucket to keep them handy for the next wash.

When it comes to swirl free washing, one of the greatest ideas to come along is the two bucket
method of car washing. As the name implies you use two separate buckets to wash your car. One
bucket holds the soapy car wash solution and the other holds clean, clear rinse water so you can
rinse your mitt after each pass over your car. This keeps those dirt particles you just picked up on
the surface from going back into the clean car wash solution and being picked up again by the
wash mitt.

                         This brings me to my next topic….Grit Guard® Inserts. If you aren’t
                         using them…you should be!!! The Grit Guard® Inserts is a round plastic
                         insert grate that sits on the bottom of your bucket suspended from the
                         bottom by four lateral fins. Dirt from your wash mitt drops to the bottom
                         of the bucket and is kept at the bottom of the bucket, ensuring that your
                         wash mitt doesn’t pick up the dirt you just washed off of the car. When
you finish washing your car and lift the Grit Guard® Insert up and you will see how well it
works. The Grit Guard® Insert should be used in both the wash and rinse buckets for optimum
protection against instilling swirl marks. The Grit Guard® Insert comes with the handy Sonus
Professional Car Wash Bucket on wheels.



HOSE NOZZLES



Yes, even your hose nozzle is an important part of your car wash procedure.
There is nothing like trying to wash your car with an inadequate or leaky hose
nozzle. The Fire Hose Nozzle offers a wide range of spray patterns as well as the
very important open flow and no leaks! The open flow option is especially important when
rinsing your car to get the water to sheet off instead of beading up which will cut down on drying
time and the possibility of water spots. It is also designed so you can set it down quickly without
breaking or accidentally hitting a handle and giving yourself an unexpected shower.



                   CAR WASH SHAMPOO

                   Car wash shampoos have come a long way since their introduction to the
                   automotive detailing market. There was a time when we all just grabbed dish
                   soap and went to work but those days are long gone. Dish soap is designed to
eat away grease and food and while it works great for dishes but we need to keep it in the
kitchen! The same attributes that break down the grease on dishes will strip your car wax and dry
out your plastic moldings and rubber seals!

Some of the factors that establish a great car wash shampoo like the Sonus Gloss Shampoo are
foaming ability, lubricity, pH balance, concentration, gentleness and even gloss enhancers. High
quality car wash shampoos will clean a car’s surface, enhance the gloss and leave the car wax,
paint protectant or paint sealant intact to protect your paint. Generic car wash shampoos that you
could purchase in bulk at a clearance or discount stores lack many of the attributes of the higher
quality car wash shampoos. You will also find that the cost of the bottle of car wash shampoo
does not necessarily mean it is less expensive. The high end car wash shampoos like the Pinnacle
Bodywork Shampoo or P21S Bodywork Conditioning Shampoo tend to cost more per ounce but
they are also more concentrated so if you do the math, you may find that you are actually getting
a better deal with a premium car wash shampoo.



DRYING TOWELS

Two of the most popular options for drying your vehicle are
waffle weave microfiber towels and synthetic PVA towels. The
PVA synthetic chamois are the small rubbery towels used by
divers and swimmers at the Olympics. They are generally smaller
and rubber-like in feel. They hold a large amount of water, wring
out easily, and last a very long time. The drawback is that they
are not quite as soft and gentle as the microfiber drying towels.

Microfiber waffle weave drying towels like the Sonus Der Wunder Microfiber Drying Towel are
very soft, safe and effective. The waffle weave act like little pockets and absorb tons of water
and when used properly used are extremely gentle on your vehicles surface. It generally takes
only two towels to dry vehicle to ensure a spot and streak free finish. The first towel picks up the
majority of water and the second towel picks up any residual moisture ensuring a streak free
finish. Another benefit to the Sonus Der Wunder Microfiber Drying Towel is that you just wash
them with my other microfiber detailing towels so that each time you go to wash your car your
microfiber drying towel is clean and fresh with no chance of dirt from the last car wash. Keep in
mind that just like other products, there is a difference in quality when it comes to microfiber
drying towels, they are not all the same so be sure to use only high quality towels like the Sonus
Der Wunder Microfiber Drying Towel or Cobra Guzzler Waffle Weave Drying Towels,
available in three sizes.



CAR WASHING PROCEDURE
Now that we’ve discussed the tools for the job, let me just give you a rundown of how to wash
your car in a manner that gets it clean and reduces the chances of your putting swirls into the
paint.

      Always wash your car in the shade! This will keep your car wash shampoo solution from
       drying on the car before it is rinsed off. If at all possible, it is best to wash your car on a
       relatively calm day as even a slight breeze can put particles of dirt in the air. These dust
       particles are attracted to the wash/rinse water on your vehicle and act like sandpaper
       when rubbed between the drying towel and vehicle surface. The breeze will also tend to
       dry your car for you and this can cause streaks and water spots.



      Use two buckets with a Grit Guard® Insert in each bucket. One is for your shampoo
       solution and the other is clean rinse water for your wash mitt.

      Fill a 5-gallon bucket 2/3 full with cool water. Add recommended amount of shampoo to
       the water. Using a stiff jet of water, fill the bucket to fully activate suds. Fill the second
       bucket with clean, water for rinsing your wash mittt.

      Thoroughly rinse the vehicle’s surface to remove the loose dirt and grime before you
       begin your car wash procedure.

      Only use high quality car shampoos and wash mitts.



      When washing your vehicle remember to always go from high to low, never the opposite.
       Generally the dirtiest parts of your vehicle are those parts closest to the ground. Wheel
       wells, rocker panels and bumpers tend to have the largest accumulation of grime and you
       don’t want to bring that junk back onto the paint surface and risk scratching it.

      Load up your wash mitt with your car wash solution and wring it out over the wash
       surface. This acts like a “pre-soak” and helps loosen surface gunk. It also adds more
       sudsy water to the surface more lubricity to help safely wash the grime away without
       scratching.

      Keep your wash areas small and rinse your wash mitt frequently.

      Wash in straight, overlapping lines as opposed to circles and remember to be gentle with
       the wash mitt on the first pass. This first pass will pick up the majority of the dirt, and
       loosens the remaining dirt for pick up on the second pass.



      Rinse your vehicle by opening up your Fire Hose Nozzle to the open flow setting or by
       removing the nozzle if you don’t have an open flow option on your nozzle and let the
       water run or sheet over the surface instead of spraying. This helps in two ways. First,
       generally when water has “sheeted” off of a surface it tends to leave less residual droplets
       behind. This means less to drying time. Second, since there is less water to pick up, there
       is less chance of your leaving water behind to “spot” the vehicle.

      When you dry your car, use only high quality microfiber waffle weave drying towels and
       wring out often. Gently dry the surface without much pressure. You don’t need to rub the
       surface…you’re just picking up the bulk of the water! Once you have picked up the bulk
       of the water, and the first towel is saturated, use the second towel to lightly pick up any
       remaining streaks or droplets.



      Lastly, if your wax is still in good shape, go over the vehicle with a quick detail spray
       like the Griot's Garage Speed Shine Detailer or Wolfgang Instant Detail Spritz and a
       plush Cobra Deluxe Jr. Microfiber Buffing Towel to restore a radiance and slickness to
       the paint. This last step will give your vehicle that “just detailed” look by enhancing gloss
       and will also remove any missed drips, water spots or streaks that showed up when you
       weren’t looking.




http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to-wash-your-car-detailing-101.html
How To Wash Your Car Eco Friendly With Waterless Wash



In our busy lives it is hard to find the time to wash your car and with water restrictions and
concerns for the environment it is even more difficult. Fortunately, product makers are adapting
with fast-acting, environmentally friendly waterless wash formulas.

Both Detailer's Pro Series and Ultima have their own excellent waterless wash products. Ultima
Waterless Wash Plus+ and Ultima Waterless Wash Plus+ Concentrate are both Boosted by
Polycharger™. Detailer's Pro Series Waterless Auto Wash and Waterless Auto Wash
Concentrate are made to leave a slick, protective
shine.

Waterless washes are a safe and effective solution
to the concerns of water shortages, environmental
issues, and car washing location restrictions. The
special high lubricity of such products
encapsulates dirt and grime so that it is safely and
easily wiped away without the fear of scratching.
Simply spray, wipe, and walk away. It’s that easy -
no hoses, no mess and this process not only cleans,
it actually protects, enhances paint clarity,
slickness and gloss.



The Ultima Waterless Wash Plus+ Concentrate is a hyper-concentrate that can be used to make
the Ultima Waterless Wash Plus+ spray wash formula or as a no rinse car wash solution in a
bucket.

Detailer's Pro Series Waterless Auto Wash Concentrate also offers the value of a concentrate and
the same great performance as the pre-mixed wash.



All four products QUICKLY and SAFELY clean painted surfaces, chrome, plastic, glass and
wheels without the use of water. No hoses! No rinsing! No drying!




Ultima Waterless Wash Plus+ Spray, Wipe, Walk Away Car Wash
Instructions:
Always work in a shaded area on a surface that is cool to the touch. Make sure the surface is not
gritty with dirt or sand to avoid scratching.



      Ultima Waterless Wash Plus+ Concentrate is easy to mix - simply open the flip-top cap and
       squeeze the container until the holding chamber reaches ½ fluid ounce line.




      Pour contents into Ultima Waterless Wash Plus+ mixing spray bottle. Fill mixing bottle with
       water and shake well.




      Ultima Waterless Wash Plus+ is ready to use and no mixing is required.




      Starting on the upper surfaces first, mist the surface to be cleaned.




      Fold a clean, dry Ultima AutoSpa Microfiber Buffing Towel into quarters and gently wipe using a
       back and forth motion.




      As the Ultima AutoSpa Microfiber Buffing Towel becomes saturated or dirty, fold to a clean dry
       side and replace with a fresh towel as needed.

NOTE: Ultima Waterless Wash Plus+ also works great as a detail clay lubricant and a quick
detail spray!
Ultima Waterless Wash Plus+ Concentrate No Rinse Car Wash
Instructions:

Always work in a shaded area on a surface that is cool to the touch. Make sure the surface is not
gritty with dirt or sand to avoid scratching.



      Ultima Waterless Wash Plus+ Concentrate is easy to mix - simply open the flip-top cap and
       squeeze the container until holding chamber reaches 1 fluid ounce line.
      Pour contents into a bucket with three gallons of water.




      Fold an Ultima AutoSpa Microfiber Buffing Towel into quarters and allow to soak for a few
       minutes in the bucket of wash solution.
      Very gently squeeze excess wash solution from the Ultima AutoSpa Microfiber Buffing Towel.




      Starting on upper surfaces first, gently wipe soaked Ultima AutoSpa Microfiber Buffing Towel in
       a back and forth motion over a small section (24” by 24”) at a time.




      Using second clean Ultima AutoSpa Microfiber Buffing Towel, wipe the area until dry.
      Repeat process over next area and replace your Ultima AutoSpa Microfiber Buffing Towel as
       needed.


Detailer's Pro Series Waterless Auto Wash Instructions:

Work on a surface free of grit or sand.

      Spray the paint generously with Detailer's Pro Series Waterless Auto Wash.
      Use a soft, clean microfiber towel to wipe the surface dry. Wipe in one direction to avoid
       recontaminating the area you've already cleaned. Turn your towel as needed to use a clean side
       when the side you're using becomes dirty.
      Perform these steps over the entire vehicle.




Detailer's Pro Series Waterless Auto Wash Concentrate Instructions:

      Dilute the concentrate 1:3 with water in a spray bottle.
      Spray the paint generously with Detailer's Pro Series Waterless Auto Wash.
      Use a soft, clean microfiber towel to wipe the surface dry. Wipe in one direction to avoid
       recontaminating the area you've already cleaned. Turn your towel as needed to use a clean side
       when the side you're using becomes dirty.
      Perform these steps over the entire vehicle. You may even use it to wipe down interior plastics
       and vinyl.




       http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to-wash-your-car-with-eco-friendly-waterless-car-wash-
and-no-rinse-car-wash.html
How To Detail Clay Your Car - Detailing 101 Series



Detail Clay is perhaps one of the most innovative and effective product introductions to the car
care industry, despite being overlooked by many detailers. Invented in Japan in the late 1980’s,
automotive detail clay is a paint cleaning system designed to safely and effectively remove
bonded surface contamination that is not removed with your normal car wash procedure.



Claying your car with detail clay is not a substitute for polishing your paint. Claying is a process
to be done prior to the polishing process to remove contaminants that have bonded to your paint.
The polishing process removes paint defects such as scratches, swirl, oxidation and staining
while improving overall paint clarity to enhance gloss and prepare your paint for your car wax,
paint sealant or protectant.



For those who have never done it, rubbing a detail clay bar on your car does sound a little strange
but it is actually very effective, quick, super easy and extremely safe! If you have never clayed
your paint you will see what you have been missing within the first few passes with the clay bar.
It’s actually kind of fun!



This article will walk you through the claying process step-by-step to remove the bonded surface
contamination on your car and prepare your car for the polishing process.



Does My Car Need to be
Clayed?

First of all, age does not matter!
Many people think that a new car
does not need to be clayed. This is
not necessarily true!
Contamination doesn’t care if your
car is new or old. If your car is
subjected to airborne
contamination and it has bonded
to the surface it needs to be
clayed.
Just remember, even a new car has been subjected to many types environments prior to the
salesman handing you the keys. Your car started at the factory, sat on a lot waiting for transport
via ship, train or truck or a combination of transports, then it sat on the lot waiting to be bought.
Who knows what was floating around the air on the long journey between the factory and your
driveway???



Surface Contamination Test

New or old, there is a way to tell if it is time to clay your car.

       Wash your car to make sure the surface is clean and free of any loose dirt, then feel the
        surface with the back of your hand for obvious contamination. Sometimes you can feel it
        right away but you may need to go one step further with your contamination test.
       Take a plastic baggie and place your hand inside the bag.
       Run the bag over the same area of your paint that you felt
        with your bare hand.



Do you feel the difference? The plastic bag basically amplifies the
surface contamination bonded to your car. Even if you don’t feel
much, it is best to remove it before moving on to your polishing and protecting processes.



Types of Bonded Surface Contamination

Bonded surface contaminants make your paint feel rough leaving your paint more prone to
oxidation and premature aging. If your paint is not slick and smooth, dirt and grime tend to stick
to the surface of your car, which can lead to instilling that dreaded swirl during your car wash
process.

       Paint Overspray
       Industrial Pollution
       Road Grime
       Brake Dust
       Bugs Remains
       Pollen
       Specs from Tree Sap or Tar
       Many other contaminants that float around the air and attach themselves to your paint’s
        surface.
How Does Detailing Clay Work



                                                Surface contamination, as shown by this
                                                magnified illustration , won’t budge when you
                                                wash the surface through your normal car wash
                                                procedure. The contamination is even difficult to
                                                polish off. Detail clay will quickly and easily grab
                                                this contamination as it glides across your paint
                                                surface without the worry of damaging your paint.



Detail clay works by hydroplaning (gliding) over the surface of your paint on a thin layer of clay
lubricant. The clay lubricant helps keep the clay from sticking to the surface of the paint while
the clay removes the bonded contamination. Many fear that they will harm their car’s paint as
detailing clay is an abrasive but it is actually only abrasive to the contamination, not your paint.
The detail clay actually safely shears the bonded surface contamination without the fear of
harming your paint.




Types of Detail Clay

There are many brands of clay with different levels of aggressiveness. The more aggressive
detailing clays are used in body shops to remove more difficult contaminants like heavy paint
overspray. The medium to ultra-fine grade detailing clays are formulated for the professional
detailers, serious enthusiasts and average consumers. The medium grade detailing clay, like
Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay, is best for cars that have contamination you can feel easily with
your bare hand. The mild to ultra-fine grade detailing clays, like Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay, are an
excellent choice for those with normal to mild contamination.

Clay Lubrication

Without proper clay lubrication the detail clay simply will not work, instead the clay would stick
or skip across the paint and probably cause a bit of marring. Lubrication such as a detail spray or
proper clay lubricant, like Sonus Glyde Clay Lubricant or Pinnacle Clay Lubricant will help clay
bar properly glide across the paint surface.

Detail Claying Procedure
Now that we’ve discussed the types of detail clay products, let me just give you a rundown on
how to detail clay your car to achieve that super slick surface.




      Always work in a shaded area and on a cool surface. Claying your car on a warm or hot
       surface will tend to make the clay stick to the surface and will not be effective to remove
       the bonded surface contamination.
      Thoroughly wash and dry your car or truck.
      Cut your detailing clay in half or quarters and form a round flat
       wafer.
      Spray your detail clay lubricant onto about a 2’ by 2’ area.
       IMPORTANT! If you drop your detail clay bar on the ground
       you MUST throw it away as it will pick up dirt from the ground
       which will scratch your car!
      Gently with slight pressure glide the detailing clay bar over the surface of the paint in a
       back and forth motion. Do not apply excessive pressure; remember you are only
       hydroplaning over the surface to remove bonded contaminants. The clay may tend to grab
       at first, then you will feel it break free and easily glide as the contaminants are removed.
       IMPORTANT! Keep your clay and surface well lubricated
      with your detailing clay lubricant.
      Wipe clay lubricant from the surface with a quality microfiber
       towel.
      Fold over your clay and knead to reshape often to expose a clean
       clay surface.
      Feel the area that has been cleaned. It should feel slick and
       smooth. If not, you will need to repeat the process until all of the surface contamination
       has been removed.
      Continue this process over the entire car. Remember that detail
       clay works great on glass, chrome and wheels too. Heavy
       embedded contaminants on wheels will probably require lots of
       elbow grease!
      As a precaution when claying wheels be sure to use a dedicated
       clay bar that will not ever be used on your car’s paint.

Storage: Be sure to lubricate your detail clay bar with your clay lubricant to keep it from
sticking and store it in its original box or plastic bag. Do not let your detail clay freeze or reach
temperatures above 120 degrees.

       http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to-detail-clay-your-car-detailing-101.html
How To Wax Your Car - Detailing 101



Many new car owners look at the clearcoat as a protective layer that shields their car against
harm. This is simply not true. The clearcoat is a tough clear paint that is there to protect your
color coat and add depth in shine. Although harder than single stage paints, it is not a super high
tech protectant, it is just clear paint and needs to be protected just like the older single stage
paints.



Car Wax, Paint Sealants And Paint Protectants, What’s The Difference?



When choosing your protection you must first understand the somewhat confusing term,
“protectant” which can mean several things in the automotive finish care industry. To simplify
things, car waxes, paint protectants and paint sealants all fall into the same “paint protectant
category”. Although some protectants do a better job than others, they all protect against the
harsh environmental elements and help prevent premature deterioration caused by the onset of
oxidation. With modern technology, a traditional car wax would be considered “old school” and
be less protective than the more advanced paint synthetic sealants and protectants.



Synthetic Paint Sealants vs. Old School Traditional Paste Wax



When choosing a paint protectant product, some compare liquid vs. paste wax and assume that
the paste wax is better because it is tough to put on and take off. This is not necessarily true. The
object of a paint protectant is to have it bond with the surface to create a protective barrier
against harsh environmental elements as well as make your paint slick and look good. When you
wipe off your protectant residue, you want to make sure you leave as much bonded protectant on
the surface as possible. With the newer technology of liquid paint sealants this is an easy task
and they actually do a very good job. With older paste waxes, this is more difficult as you need
to work hard to remove the residue and at the same time you are creating friction, which causes
removal of a portion of the protectant that you truly need to leave behind.



How To Choose Your Paint Protection
There are many choices when it comes to car wax, paint sealants and paint protectants. When it
comes to choosing, you will want to make sure your protection choice includes durability, looks
and don’t forget, slickness. With these key characteristics in mind let’s move forward and take
an in-depth look at the chemistry of paint protectants.




      Traditional Paste Wax – Paste waxes are usually older technology and are a hard wax substance
       that contains silicone and petroleum distillates to create a temporary shine. They are often
       difficult to put on as well as remove. In fact, the pressure it takes to remove the wax residue will
       also wear away part of the wax protection that would ideally be left on the surface for
       protection.




      Carnauba Based Wax – The true Carnauba Based Wax are soft, easy to use waxes that are
       usually a little pricey and known for looks, not longevity. These waxes are commonly called
       toppers. They are commonly used to top acrylic paint sealants that need a little shine. The
       carnauba works well on all colors but will show more on darker or deeper colors. The downfall
       of the protection is that pure carnauba melts at about 160 to 170 degrees so the look fades fast
       and the protection doesn’t hold up on hot sunny days, especially on dark colors, which tend to
       draw the heat. Basically, put it on when you want to look good but don’t expect it to last.




      Cleaner Wax – A cleaner wax is a one step product that has some polishing ability as well as a
       protectant. They work well for those who have a surface that is free of defects and plan on using
       further protection. The cleaner wax is generally about the same aggressiveness as a pre-wax
       cleaner. The problem with a cleaner wax is that because of the cleaners you are not able to
       leave as much protection on the paint surface so you will want to follow up with more serious
       protection that is not a cleaner wax.




      Synthetic Paint Sealants – Man perfected the Wax! Newer technology reveals synthetic paint
       sealants that offer serious, long lasting protection. Unlike traditional waxes, synthetic paint
       sealants can withstand temperatures over 1000 degrees which make them much more durable.
       When choosing a synthetic paint sealant you need to know the difference between the two
       basic types of synthetic paint sealants. While they both offer good protection, they will vary in
       shine and slickness. A quality synthetic polymer based paint sealant will generally offer your best
       protection, shine and slickness, while the acrylic based sealant will provide good protection but
       is not as slick and may need a little help from a carnauba topper for shine.
Now that you know the difference between traditional waxes and synthetic sealants, you can
make an educated decision on what will work the best for your needs. There is no right or wrong
choice, just make sure you protect your paint and keep it protected!



PAINT PROTECTION PROCEDURE




                WASH - CLEAN - PERFECT - PROTECT - MAINTAIN


New or older, no matter how well you have taken care of your car, you still need to prep your
surface. Protecting your surface properly is actually the fourth step if you want serious protection
and the best looking shine. We all know washing is necessary to remove loose dirt and grime
before we protect our surface, but what about the bonded contamination and minor defect
removal and gloss enhancement? A properly prepared surface not only looks better it actually
helps your protection bond with your paint surface which helps it protect better and longer.




STEP 1- WASH

We all know that washing your car removes loose dirt and grime. What you may not know is that
your car washing procedure is the number one cause of swirl marks! Don't worry - this can be
avoided by using high a quality car wash shampoo, wash mitt and microfiber drying towels.
With high quality products and a little education your car wash procedure will not only be safer,
it will be easier and you will achieve much better results.

For more information on how to properly wash your car read our Detailing 101 – How To Wash
Your Car Article.




STEP 2- REMOVE BONDED CONTAMINATION




Many think that claying is an optional step and a product for professional detailers. This is not
necessarily true! Contamination doesn’t care if your car is old or new. Even if your car is new it
has been subjected to many types environments between the factory lot waiting for transport via
ship, train or truck or a combination of transports, then it may have sat on the lot waiting to be
bought for who knows how long. During this time, contaminants such as pollen and pollution
were floating around the air and had a chance to bond to your paint surface. If you don’t remove
the contamination, you are actually protecting over it instead of allowing your paint protection to
bond directly with your paint.




Claying your car with a detail clay or using the Ultima Elastrofoam Cleaning System is not a
substitute for polishing your paint, it is a process to be done prior to the polishing process to
remove surface contaminants that make your paint rough. When your paint is rough, dirt and
grime tend to stick and build up, creating even more problems. Claying is simple and will
quickly and safely remove the contamination and prepare your car for the polishing and
protecting steps.



For more information on properly detail clay your paint or how to Ultima Elastrofoam Clay
Replacement System read our Detailing 101 – How To Detail Clay Your Car Article.




STEP 3- PERFECT AND ENHANCE GLOSS


After your surface is free of surface contamination it is time to remove defects, staining and
enhance overall shine by cleaning and polishing your paint with a pre-wax cleaner or paint polish
system. What you are looking for your polishing process or pre wax cleaning to do is offer a
clean, contaminant free, optically clear paint surface that is ready for protection. For proper
bonding, the surface should be perfectly smooth and free of defects prior to your application of
your chosen car wax, paint sealant or paint protectant




If your car is new, more than likely you won't need to remove defects unless your car has been
on the lot for a while and been stricken with that dreaded swirl from poor washing procedures by
the dealership. If your car is older, it depends on how well the car has been maintained as to
whether or not it needs correction or just gloss enhancement.
If your paint is free of defects you will still want to use a pre-wax cleaner like the Ultima Paint
Prep Plus to enhance the shine and prepare your paint surface for your paint protectant, sealant or
car wax. This can safely and easily be done by hand or machine.



For those needing more serious defect removal, I would recommend the Sonus Polishing System
for scratch, oxidation and swirlmark removal as well as overall gloss enhancement.



For more information on properly polish your car read our How To Polish Your Car Article.




STEP 4- WAX YOUR CAR


The term “wax your car” started with the old school waxes when you actually put wax on your
car’s paint. Nowadays, it is a term that is used for the paint protection process of applying your
car wax, paint sealant or paint protectant. This does not mean you need to apply a wax. It also
does not mean you need to wax after a paint sealant. Remember, the object is to protect and the
car wax, paint sealant and paint protectant all do this job so you truly only need one product for
protection with the exceptions of topper type waxes.



Now that you have done the proper prep work, you should have a have a high gloss, slick,
contaminant and defect free surface and now you are ready for your protection! I know it seems
like a long road but trust me, the end results will show your work and the actual protection
process is quite simple.




Traditional Car Wax, Paint Sealant and Paint Protection Application
Instructions

Always work in a shaded area and on a cool surface.

      To begin your wax or paint sealant application process, start at the top surfaces of your car.
       Apply a very thin, even layer of your car wax or paint sealant with a quality microfiber or foam
       wax applicator working in a back and forth motion in the direction of the panel or along the lines
       of the car. This process may also be done with a finishing pad on a dual action polisher.




      When you are finished applying your car wax or paint sealant to the entire car you will need to
       wait for it to cure and bond with the paint. This generally takes about 15 to 20 minutes but
       could take longer depending on the type of car wax or paint sealant and weather conditions.




      Test a small area by performing a “swipe test” to see if your car wax or paint sealant residue is
       ready to remove. To do this test, briskly wipe your finger across a small area of wax residue. If it
       smears, wait a little while longer, if leaves a clean area, it is time to wipe off.




      Start your car wax or paint sealant removal at the same place you started your application. With
       a high quality microfiber buffing or polishing towel, wipe in a back and forth motion, just as you
       did during your application process. As you work, fold the towel often to reveal a fresh side and
       every once in a while shake out any loose residue build up.
      For best results repeat the protection process in about 12 or more hours after your car wax or
       paint sealant has had a chance to harden and finish bonding with your paint. A second layer will
       ensure even coverage as well as enhance the shine.




Ultima Paint Guard Plus Wipe-On, Walk-AwayTM Application Instructions


Ultima Paint Guard Plus is a synthetic polymer paint sealant that goes on clear and is a Wipe-On,
Walk-AwayTM that offers serious durable protection, a deep, wet looking shine and offers
superior slickness. The thin, clear liquid will not build up in the cracks, crevices, emblems and
will not stain trim.




      Ultima Paint Guard Plus must be used very sparingly. About 1/4 ounce of product is all that's
       needed to treat most cars. Start at one corner of the vehicle (e.g., left front fender). Mist the
       Ultima AutoSpa Microfiber Applicator with Ultima Paint Guard Plus twice (two pumps) to prime
       the pad with product.
      Wipe the product onto the surface of your paint in a circular motion to spread out and finish by
       wiping in a straight line motion. (This will help to see where product has been applied).




      When it appears that no more product is being applied to the paint, spray one more shot of
       product onto the applicator. Do not spray directly on your vehicle.




      Continue to apply until the entire vehicle has complete coverage. By the time you get back to
       where you began, the first couple of panels should already look dry.




      For best results repeat this process in about 4 or more hours after Ultima Paint Guard Plus has
       had a chance to cure and bond with your paint. This will ensure even coverage for your
       protection as well as enhance the shine.




It’s that easy - the entire Ultima Paint Guard process should take less than 10 minutes!



Quick Detailing To Maintain Your Protection and Shine



Quick Detailing is a simple solution that will cut down on your regular washing routine by
maintaining your car's paint when it is just lightly dusty. Just a few minutes a day or every other
day will refresh your protection, enhance the shine and keep that just detailed look!



For more information on properly quick detail your car read our Detailing 101 – How To Quick
Detail Your Car Article.




How Often Should I Wax Or Protect My Paint
The answer is 2-4 times per year; depending on the environmental conditions and if you park in a
garage or outside. Many car wax, paint sealant and paint protection manufactures make big
claims that their product will last a year or longer. The truth is that there are no miracle products
and although you may find protection on your paint after a year, would you rely on it for your
protection? Think of it as you would your sunscreen, would you put it on yourself or your child
early on a scorching hot day and rely on it to protect all day? Yes, you would still have sunscreen
on at the end of the day, but more than likely you will also have a sunburn. The moral of this
story is that just like your skin, the environment can cause premature aging so KEEP
PROTECTED!



Many people ask, “do I have to do all of the steps?," and the answer is no if you are looking for
mediocre results and protection. If you expect the best, then yes, you need to follow the proper
steps and avoid any short cuts. You spent a lot of money on that car or truck and will get out of it
what you put in to it so protect your investment by properly taking care of it!

        http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to-protect-your-cars-paint-car-wax-paint-sealant-paint-
protectant-detailing-101.html
How To Quick Detail Your Car - Detailing 101



Washing your car every week is a chore and can be very time consuming. Between our busy
work schedules and family time it is difficult to find the time for things like washing our car.

If you are like most people, you hate to have a dirty car, so what do you do? The answer is
quick detailing!

Quick Detailing is a simple solution that will cut down on your regular washing routine by
maintaining your car's paint when it is just lightly dusty. Just a few minutes a day or every other
day will keep that just detailed look!

Quick Detailer Spray History

The quick detail spray market was created in 1981 by Meguiar's who released a product called
Meguair's Trigger Wash. After realizing the name caused some confusion with consumers,
Meguiar’s changed the product name to Meguiar's Quik Detailer. The product completely
defined a new market and remains one of Meguiar’s top sellers.

Quick detailers, which are often called waterless washes, are commonly used by detailers and car
enthusiasts to put the finishing touch on a freshly detailed vehicle. Quick Detail Spray products
quickly and easily remove water spots, streaks, dust and other light contamination. The special
formulations evaporate quickly to prevent further spotting, lubricate to prevent scratching and
contain gloss enhancers to refresh your just waxed shine. Today, every major car care brand has
a quick detailer or waterless wash type product in their line-up. For the car enthusiast, a quick
detailer is more than just a convenience; it is a necessity and part of their car care routine.

SAVING TIME WITH QUICK DETAILING

With the use of a quick detailer you can drastically reduce washing to about every other week on
your commuter car, and once a month for the weekend toys, depending on weather conditions of
course. Time is only one factor in considering quick detailing. Water shortages, lack of facilities
and bad weather are also things that make normal washing more difficult.

Done properly, quick detailing can reduce the amount of time you spend cleaning your car. It
also reduces the effects of harmful elements (road grime, bird droppings, bugs, etc.), and keeps
your car looking sharp. Ten minutes every day or every other day is all it takes to maintain a
great looking finish.

Supplies:

To properly Quick Detail your car you'll need a few high quality, plush microfiber buffing
towels, and quick detailing spray. A car duster also works well at removing the top layer of dust
prior to quick detailing, but is not necessary.
Quick Detailing is not just for the exterior of your car. There are detailing sprays for your car's
interior as well. Sonus Cockpit Detailer or the multi-use Ultima Detail Spray Plus are excellent
interior detailers. They will remove dust, fingerprints and light soil from all non-fabric surfaces.

INTERIOR QUICK DETAILING

About three to four times per year you should clean and protect your interior, but that that is
simply not enough to keep your interior fresh and clean. A few years ago due to the popularity of
the exterior quick detailer, a new interior quick detail emerged. Why not have the ease keeping
the outside clean available for the interior too! The idea is about the same as the exterior quick
detailer, just mist and wipe to maintain freshly detailed interior look.

To use an interior detailing spray, fold your microfiber detailing towel, spray it with a few shots
of detailing spray, and wipe down the dashboard, console and leather seats, door panels and door
jambs. The interior detailing spray was made more for dusting than cleaning, just as the exterior
spray, it is a maintenance product and is not meant to replace interior cleaners or protectants.

EXTERIOR QUICK DETAILING

The number one concern most people have with quick detailing is scratching or dulling the paint.
This is a genuine concern and warrants discussion.

Quick detailing your paint is perfectly safe if you follow a few cautionary measures:

      Use only high quality microfiber buffing towels with a thick, plush nap
      Use plenty of quick detailing spray
      If in doubt, if you think your car might be too dirty, don't quick detail, wash it instead.

QUICK DETAILING PROCEDURE

Paint Condition: To prevent scratching and swirl marks, a Quick Detail Spray should not be
used to clean large areas with heavy dirt. If in doubt or when heavy dirt is present, wash your
vehicle with quality car wash shampoo.



      Always use a high quality microfiber buffing towel and fold your towel into quarters.



      Start at the top and work your way down to the lower surfaces of your car. Holding the
       Quick Detail Spray 12" to 15" away, lightly mist about a 2' by 2' area on the surface of
       your car with a Quick Detail Spray like the Ultima Detail Spray Plus, one of the Sonus
       Quick Detailing Sprays, Detailer's Pro Series Final Gloss Detailer, or Pinnacle Crystal
       Mist.
      Gently wipe in a straight line back and forth , then flip the microfiber buffing towel and
       buff dry.
      As the surface of the microfiber buffing towel gets dirty, flip it to a clean side.



      If needed, when all sides of the towel start to look a little dirty, switch to a fresh
       microfiber buffing towel.



PRO TIP! For that flawless, just detailed look after washing your car, quick detail to eliminate
any streaks, spots and enhance the gloss.

Now that you are familiar with quick detailing your car, you can easily get the job done in as
little as 5 to 10 minutes. Compare this to the 45 to 60 minutes it takes to wash and dry your car.
If you did a quick detail on your car every day, or every other day, you would spend no more
time than you would with a weekly wash, and your car will always have that freshly detailed
look.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-quick.html
How To Clean Your Windshield and Glass – Detailing 101 Series



There are times that no matter how well you clean the windshield and glass with a glass cleaner,
that dirt and grime won’t budge! A dirty windshield is not only unsafe, it detracts from the look
of your freshly detailed car or truck. This article will teach you how to clean your windshield and
glass, leaving it so clear it may look as if the glass is invisible!

Be sure to thoroughly wash and dry your car or truck to remove loose dirt prior to starting your
glass cleaning and polishing process. Also, you will want to work in a shaded area and on a cool
surface to keep your products from evaporating, which will prevent them from working properly.

Step One – Remove Bonded Contamination

Many professional detailers will start their glass cleaning process using a detailing clay to
remove bonded contamination, which is dirt and grime that is stuck to your glass that won’t
budge with regular washing or glass cleaning.

Although detail clay works well, it tends to get trapped in the pits of older windshields. Once the
clay is trapped, it is difficult or impossible to remove and interferes with the clarity. With the
newer technology of the Ultima Elastrofoam Paint Cleaning System, which works great on glass
and paint, this is no longer a worry, as the Ultima Elastrofoam Block has a rubberized surface
instead of the traditional clay bar.

Similarly, the Diamondite Glass Cleaning Clay is a clay bar designed to extract embedded contaminants
glass the same way detailing clay works on auto paint.

Application Instructions

      Start at a top corner of your windshield and work on a small area (2' by 2') at a time.
      Spray the rubberized face of the Elastrofoam Block and the area to be cleaned with Ultima Paint
       Cleaning Lubricant. Proper lubrication is essential, never use dry.
      Lightly glide the Elastrofoam Block over the area to be cleaned in a back and forth motion.
       Heavy rubbing (pressure) is not required or recommended.
      After several passes over the area, dry with Microfiber Polishing Towel.
      Inspect by feeling the area for remaining contamination. The surface should feel perfectly
       smooth. Repeat if necessary.
      Repeat process over the entire windshield and all exterior windows.

IMPORTANT! Never use on tinted interior window glass.
Step Two – Polish Away Dirt and Grime

Now that the bonded contamination is gone it is time to get to polishing off that stubborn film of
road grime. Glass Polish is a mechanical and chemical cleaner so you will need to use a little
elbow grease or pull out your dual action polisher and work by machine.



Application Instructions

      Apply a small amount of Glass Polish to the Microfiber Applicator.
      Start by applying the polish over a small area in back and forth motions until polish is spread
       evenly.
      With pressure, rub polish in small circular motions until area has been polished well and the
       polish starts to go clear.
      Remove remaining Glass Polish with the Microfiber Polishing Towel.
      Repeat process over the entire windshield and all exterior glass windows.

IMPORTANT! Never use on tinted interior window glass.



Step Three – Final Cleaning

The combination of a quality microfiber towel and an ammonia-free glass cleaner is your final
step to streak free windshields and glass. The Meguiar’s Glass Cleaner Concentrate is safe to use
inside and out, even on tinted windows and itoffers consistent results. The concentration level of
10:1 is also very economical, as one gallon of concentrate will make eleven gallons of glass
cleaner!

Dilute the Meguiar’s Glass Cleaner Concentrate 10:1, do not use concentrate without diluting
with water. Also, don't forget your Meguiar’s Glass Cleaner Bottle with dilution measurements
and sprayer when you order your glass cleaner.

For a ready-to-use glass cleaner, use Diamondite Perfect Vision Glass Cleaner or Stoner
Invisible Glass.

Application Instructions

      Mist the Meguiar’s Glass Cleaner onto windshield or glass.
      Using the Microfiber Polishing Towel wipe area clean, in a horizontal back and forth motion.
       Going in a horizontal motion on the outside and an up and down motion on the inside will help
       you determine if any final streaks are on the inside or outside of your glass.
      As you are cleaning, turn and fold your microfiber towel often to expose a clean dry side is being
       used.
      Repeat the process over the entire windshield and glass windows.
       If your Microfiber Polishing Towel becomes too dirty or damp, replace with a fresh clean towel.
        A damp microfiber will cause streaks!



Interior Glass Cleaning

Cleaning your interior glass is the easy part. A quality microfiber towel and glass cleaner will
usually do the trick. If your interior windshield or windows are extremely dirty you may use
Glass Polish process but ONLY on non-tinted glass.



Application Instructions

       Mist a small amount of the Meguiar’s Glass Cleaner onto the Microfiber Polishing Towel.
       Start at the top corner of your windshield and work in an up and down motion.
       As you are cleaning, turn and fold your microfiber towel often to expose a clean dry side is being
        used.
       Repeat the process over entire windshield and glass windows.
       If your Microfiber Polishing Towel becomes too dirty or damp, replace with a fresh clean towel.
        A damp microfiber will cause streaks!



Step Four - Protection

The same Ultima Paint Guard Plus that works great on paint, also adds wonderful benefits to
glass. This step is optional but it will help protect your work so your glass will stay clean and
slick. When your glass is slick the environmental contaminants don't stick as well so your glass
stays clean longer, water sheets off and your wipers glide easier providing greater visibility in the
rain.

Glass-specific protectants, like Aquapel Glass Treatment & Rain Repellent, also do a terrific job of
protecting glass and keeping it clean.

Application Instructions

       Use sparingly and mist a small amount of the Ultima Paint Guard Plus onto the Ultima Autospa
        Microfiber Protectant Applicator.
       Start by spreading out in circular motions over a 2' by 2' area, then spread in a horizontal back
        and forth motion until all product has been spread out and is streak free.
       Repeat the process to entire windshield and glass windows and allow to cure.

Don't forget the 303 Instant Windshield Washer Tablets and 303 Wiper Treatment to help even
further in your quest to keep your glass clean and wipers working properly!
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to-clean-your-windshield-glass-windows-detailing-101.html
How To Properly Care For Your New Car - Detailing 101

Buying a new car can be intense; there are so many choices and you want to make sure you get
the best deal possible. Then there is all of that paperwork before you can get the keys and drive it
home. Then what?



Many people think, it's new, so I don’t need to do anything yet… Right? WRONG! You just paid
a lot of money for that car and if you want to keep it looking new, just like anything else, you
have to take care of it! A new car is not immune to the harsh environmental elements and the
clearcoat is not the shield that protects your car, it’s just clear paint and it needs to be protected.



For me, I didn’t even let the dealership wash my new car before I drove it home for fear of
scratching my black paint. It even had the white adhesive plastic still on the car from the
transport from the factory to the dealership. The car was still in the back and had not hit the lot
yet and my words to the salesman were "do not wash it!". He said, "but it's dirty, don't you want
us to detail it for you?". I then politely said "no thank you, I will wash it when I get home".



Proper Car Care From The Beginning

The time to start proper car care is when you drive home and pull into the driveway. When I got
home with my new Camaro I parked right next to the hose and went and got my wash buckets,
car wash shampoo, wash mitt and microfiber drying towels before I even pulled into the garage.



FIVE STEP CAR CARE

                 WASH - CLEAN - PERFECT - PROTECT -MAINTAIN

Proper car care is important whether your car is brand new or ten years old. The steps are the
same, although you may have to spend a little more time on an older car that requires removal of
defects like oxidation, swirl or scratches.



Many think that all the steps are not necessary on a new car but your long term protection
depends on properly preparing and protecting your car. You wouldn't want to put your paint
sealant over bonded contamination or get a less than perfect shine would you?
This article will help you understand the importance of each step in the five step process to care
for your car, even if it is not so new anymore.




Step 1 - Washing Your New Car



Wash - Thoroughly wash your car to remove loose dirt and grime.



The first thing you need to know is that the car washing procedure is the number one cause of
swirl marks! Don't worry, this can be avoided by using high a quality car wash shampoo, wash
mitt and microfiber drying towels. Using two buckets - one for your car wash solution and the
other for rinsing your mitt is also very helpful when it comes to avoiding swirl.



With high quality products and a little education your car wash procedure will not only be safer,
it will be easier and you will achieve much better results.



For more information on how to properly wash your car read our Detailing 101 – How To Wash
Your Car Article.



Step 2 - Claying Your New Car

Clean – Clean your paint with detailing clay to remove bonded surface contamination that is
stuck to the paint and is not removed with normal washing.



Many people think that a new car does not need to be clayed. This is not necessarily true!
Contamination doesn’t care if your car is old or new. Even though your car is new it has been
subjected to many types environments. Your car started at the factory, sat on a lot waiting for
transport via ship, train or truck or a combination of transports, then it may have sat on the lot
waiting to be bought for who knows how long. During this time, who knows what was floating
around the air on the long journey between the factory and your driveway?



Claying your car with a detail clay or using the Ultima Elastrofoam Cleaning System is not a
substitute for polishing your paint, it is a process to be done prior to the polishing process to
remove surface contaminants that make your paint rough. When your paint is rough, dirt and
grime tend to stick and build up creating even more problems. The simple task of claying will
remove the contamination and prepare your car for the polishing and protecting steps.



The Ultima Elastrofoam Paint Cleaning System was introduced in 2007 as an alternative to the
traditional detail clay bar. The product is a rubberized foam block that works in the same way as
detailing clay. Like detail clay, it removes bonded contamination from paint, glass, chrome and
plastic, plus it overcomes some of the inconvenience of detailing clay.



For more information on properly claying or how to use the Ultima Elastrofoam Clay
Replacement System read our Detailing 101 – How To Detail Clay Your Car Article.



Step 3 - Polishing Your New Car



Polish – Remove defects in your paint, staining and enhance overall shine.



More than likely if your car is new you won't need to remove defects unless your car has been on
the lot for a while and been stricken with that dreaded swirl from poor washing procedures by
the dealership. This can also be created by dealership detailers who use machine polishers
incorrectly.



If your paint is free of defects you will still want to use a pre-wax cleaner like the Ultima Paint
Prep Plus to enhance the shine and prepare your paint for your paint protectant, sealant or wax.
This can safely and easily be done by hand or machine.
For more information on properly polish your car read our How To Polish Your Car Article.



Step 4 - Protecting Your New Car

Protect – Protect the paint surface from harsh environmental elements and prevent premature
aging with a car wax, paint protectant or paint sealant.



Many new car owners look at the clearcoat as a protective layer that shields their car against
harm. This is simply not true. The clearcoat is a tough clear paint that is there to protect your
color coat and add depth in shine. It is not a super high tech protectant, it is just clear paint and
needs to be protected just like the older single stage paints.



Car waxes, paint protectants and paint sealants all fall into the same "paint protection category".
Although some do a better job than others, they all protect against and help prevent premature
deterioration caused by the onset of oxidation. With modern technology, a car wax would be "old
school" and be less protective than the more advanced paint sealants.



For more information on properly protect your car's paint read our How To Wax Your Car to
Perfection Article.



Step 5 - Maintaining Your New Car

Maintain – Maintain your paint with normal washing and quick detailing in between washing.



Quick detailers are also known as waterless wash and are commonly used by detailers and car
enthusiasts to put the finishing touch on a freshly detailed vehicle. Quick detailers quickly and
easily remove fresh water spots, streaks, dust and other light contamination. It is also a good idea
to keep one with you for those dreaded bird bombs for a quick cleanup to avoid permanent
damage.
Quick Detail Sprays are a special formulation that evaporate quickly to prevent further spotting,
lubricate to prevent scratching and contain gloss enhancers to refresh your just waxed shine. For
the car enthusiast, a quick detailer is more than just a convenient time saver, it is a necessity
when it comes to keeping your finish looking great.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to-care-for-your-new-car-detailing-101.html
Detailing 101 Series - How To Clean & Protect Your Convertible Top



The convertible automobile is a combination of beauty, performance and superior engineering.
We all know why we are attracted to the sleek masterful design of a convertible - they are
pleasing to the eye, fun to drive and are even a little sexy!



Unlike coupes or sedans, convertibles have special care requirements for the delicate convertible
top material, whether it is made of fabric or vinyl, and they should not be cared for like the
painted surfaces of your car.



The longevity, performance and looks of your convertible top depends on regular maintenance,
which consists of proper cleaning and protection for your specific convertible top type. A simple
hand wash or drive through the car wash is not enough and could result in premature
deterioration which not only causes your convertible top to look bad but it could cause it to leak
or lead to a costly replacement!



Cleaning and protecting your convertible top is very important when it comes to the maintenance
of your car. This article will take you through simple steps that will keep your convertible top
looking good and performing well for years to come.



IS MY CONVERTIBLE TOP FABRIC OR VINYL?



The first step in the care of your convertible top is to determine if your convertible top is made of
fabric, also known as cloth, canvas, or if the top is made of vinyl. The best way to determine this
is to check with your automobile manufacturer. Keep in mind, if you are not the original owner,
the top could have been replaced with a top made from a different material. This could also have
been done by the dealership when it was new so it is best to test your top if you are not
absolutely sure of the material. Determining the type of convertible top is very important as you
will need to make sure you use the correct cleaner and protectant for your specific convertible
top. Using the wrong product can harm your convertible top.



FABRIC OR VINYL CONVERTIBLE TOP TEST
      Take about 1/8 teaspoon of water and put it on your convertible top.
      Try to rub the water in to the material.
      If it starts to soak in, it is more than likely fabric, but if it sits on the top and just smears
       but does not soak in, it is more than likely vinyl.



Another hint for determining if your convertible top is fabric or vinyl is that fabric tops tend to
attract fuzzy things like lint, where the vinyl tops do not. If you are still unsure of what your
convertible top is made of it is best to get the opinion of a professional.



CLEANING PRODUCTS FOR YOUR CONVERTIBLE TOP



Common household cleaning products can be very harmful to your soft convertible top.
Chemicals you should not use on or near your convertible top include ammonia, bleach,
detergent, alcohol and vinegar. Detergents, bleach and harsh acids will quickly deteriorate fabric
or vinyl, whereas ammonia and alcohol will dry the fabric and cloud the vinyl. Using the wrong
cleaners can be a costly mistake. Use only products specifically made for cleaning your type of
convertible top.




            Keeping your convertible top clean is important. If your convertible
            top is not dirty, just rinse it thoroughly at least once a month with a
strong jet of clear water. For fabric convertible tops you can also carefully use a
vacuum to extract any loose dirt or dust that settle into the fabric fibers. If your convertible top is
dirty use a convertible top cleaner followed by your convertible top protectant. We recommend
cleaners specifically designed for convertible tops, as many car wash shampoos contain gloss-
enhancers. If a car wash shampoo contains gloss enhancers, the top will absorb them and become
a dust magnet.



HOW TO CLEAN YOUR CONVERTIBLE TOP



Fabric, Cloth or Canvas and Vinyl Convertible Top Cleaning:
      Always wash convertible tops in the shade, never in direct sunlight.



      Always wash the entire convertible top at one time, never spot clean as this will leave
       rings or spots.



      Wet convertible top thoroughly and rinse off any loose dirt.
      Spray Convertible Top Cleaner and apply evenly over entire roof then scrub lightly with
       soft bristle brush.
      For difficult soiled areas, spray and let stand for 15 to 20 minutes.
      Gently scrub with soft bristle brush.
      Rinse thoroughly with water until no remaining foam from Convertible Top Cleaner is
       observed.

IMPORTANT: CONVERTIBLE TOP MUST BE THOROUGHLY DRY BEFORE USING
YOUR CONVERTIBLE TOP PROTECTANT!

IMPORTANCE OF PROTECTING YOUR CONVERTIBLE TOP

Your car's soft convertible top is subjected to the same harsh environmental conditions as the
painted surfaces of your car but your convertible top is not as durable as your painted surfaces.
We all know that it is important to wax your paint to keep it protected from premature aging. The
fabric/cloth or vinyl material that your convertible top is made from, although durable, is more
delicate than the painted steel or fiberglass that the body of your car is made from. This is why it
is vitally important to protect your convertible top and keep it protected as a part of your
maintenance regimen. Unprotected convertible tops will deteriorate, leaving them looking bad
and even worse, they will start to leak! The worst nightmare of a convertible owner is a leaky
convertible top!



IMPORTANT NOTE! About 99% of new convertible tops have stitching along the sides and
around glass or plastic window is not treated when it leaves the factory! This is what holds your
convertible top together so get it protected IMMEDIATELY!



HOW TO PROTECT YOUR FABRIC CONVERTIBLE TOP
Fabric, Cloth or Canvas Convertible Top Protection:


      Start with a clean, completely dry convertible top.
      If possible avoid applying protectant on windy days or pull your car inside the
       garage. Even a light breeze will cause more overspray and will also stir up dirt
       and dust that will be attracted to your convertible top before the protectant has
       a chance to dry.



      Shake fabric convertible top protectant well before use and several times during
       application.



      Hold can or bottle upright and spray evenly 16-18 inches from material and use a gentle
       sweeping motion. DO NOT SATURATE!
      Allow to Completely Dry 10 minutes or longer between coats, preferably in the sun.
       Artificial heat can be used to speed drying time. Drying time may vary depending on
       weather conditions. Your convertible top MUST BE COMPLETELY DRY before
       applying the next coat of protectant.
      Spray up to three light even coats of Fabric Convertible Top Protectant allowing
       protectant to completely dry between coats.
      Use a clean microfiber towel to wipe off any excess overspray on paint, trim or glass.
      Apply every 6-8 weeks for maximum UV protection and to protect against the harsh
       environmental elements.

For Vinyl Convertible Tops use a Vinyl Convertible Top Protectant

HOW TO PROTECT YOUR VINYL CONVERTIBLE TOP



Vinyl Convertible Top Protection:

      Start with a clean dry convertible top.
      If possible avoid applying protectant on windy days or pull your car inside the
       garage. Even a light breeze will cause more overspray and will also stir up dirt
       and dust that will be attracted to your convertible top until the protectant is
       dry.
      Shake vinyl convertible top protectant and spray 8 -12 inches from convertible
       top.
      Spray on using gentle sweeping motions or spray onto clean microfiber towel or
       applicator and wipe onto vinyl convertible top.
      Wipe dry with a clean microfiber towel.
      Use a clean microfiber towel to wipe off any excess overspray on paint, trim or glass.
      Apply every 4-5 weeks for maximum UV protection and to protect against the harsh
       environmental elements.



For fabric convertible tops use a Fabric Convertible Top Protectant.

CONVERTIBLE TOP REAR WINDOW CARE

The rigid or flexible rear window on your convertible top is delicate and needs special care too.
Many convertibles have flexible rear windows made of a clear vinyl allowing the window to
fold. The rigid and flexible clear vinyl rear windows, when not properly cared for will scratch,
yellow and deteriorate.



It’s fun when your convertible top is down but when it is time to drive with the top up many
convertible owners experience foggy windows. This is especially true for new cars. This fog is
created by the evaporation of plasticizers which are used in the manufacturing of vinyl to keep it
flexible. The plasticizers release through evaporation with the heat of the sun, causing your
windows to fog up and turn yellowish if not protected.



         CONVERTIBLE TOP REAR WINDOW CLEANING

         To keep your convertible top windows crystal clear you need to keep them clean!

                Always wash your car in the shade, never in direct sunlight.
                Wash the outside of your window with a microfiber wash mitt and your car
                 wash shampoo to remove loose dirt and debris during your normal car wash
                 process.



               Dry your entire car as well as your window with a microfiber drying towel.
      Spray Plexus Plastic Cleaner, Polish and Protectant directly onto a clean, dry microfiber
       towel and use to polish and clean your window, inside and out.

Regular use of Plexus Plastic Cleaner, Polish and Protectant will prevent fogging, hazing,
yellowing and oxidation which diminishes the plastic's luster, strength and appearance. Plexus
Plastic Cleaner, Polish and Protectant also works great on your headlights, taillight lenses and
gauges.



CONVERTIBLE CAR TOP CARE SUMMARY

Follow this simple maintenance regimen and your convertible top will look good and
perform well for years to come!

      If your convertible top is not dirty, just rinse it thoroughly at least once a month with a
       strong jet of clear water. If your convertible top is dirty use a non-detergent-based
       convertible top cleaner followed by your convertible top protectant. I recommend a
       convertible top cleaner as many car wash shampoos contain gloss-enhancers. If the car
       wash shampoo contains gloss enhancers, the top will absorb them and become a dust
       magnet. For this reason I recommend using cleaners specifically designed for convertible
       tops.
      I recommend a very soft bristle scrub brush for cleaning your convertible
       top. If you can rub the brush across the back of your hand without
       scratching your skin, it's safe to use on your convertible top.
      Do not use a cloth, chenille-covered sponge or lamb's wool mitt on your
       convertible top, as they will leave lint.
      Do not use your scrub brush on the vinyl window, it will scratch and decrease visibility.
      Make sure you rinse the top thoroughly with a stiff stream of water to remove all of the
       dirt, grime and suds from your convertible top cleaner.
      After washing, dry your convertible fabric or vinyl top using a Microfiber Drying Towel.
       The best method is to use the towel to blot up the water. Do not use a terry cloth towel or
       diaper to dry your convertible, as they will leave lint on fabric convertible tops. The
       Microfiber Drying Towels will also work well on your clear vinyl windows.
      Keep your convertible top protected like you do your paint. For best results, protect your
       fabric, cloth or canvas convertible top at least 3-4 times per year and your vinyl
       convertible top as often as every 4-5 weeks.



      Fabric, cloth or canvas convertible tops tend to attract lint, dust, pollen and
       other things that fly around the air and find home on your convertible top.
       This can look especially bad on a black convertible top! To keep your
       convertible top looking sharp, keep a lint roller handy and when your top is dry, just run
       the roller over the top. You will be surprised how this simple step will bring back that
       crisp new look.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to-clean-and-protect-your-convertible-top-detailing-101.html
Regular vacuuming and dusting of your car's interior is the best way to keep it looking good.
However, surface cleaning alone is not enough. Two to three times a year you will need to detail
the upholstery to keep it looking its best.

Warning: Before using any product on your car's fabric upholstery, carpet, leather or vinyl, test
for color fading by cleaning a small, inconspicuous area. Do not use the product if it adversely
changes your fabric's color or texture.

                                                The interior of this BMW has just been perfectly
                                                detailed. Notice how the leather has a nice, even
                                                matte finish. Professional detailers don't leave a
                                                car's interior looking wet and slick. The interior
                                                should look like it just arrived from the factory.




PROPER INTERIOR DETAILING

With the variety of materials used inside the modern automotive interior, knowing what to detail
and how to do it is not always a straightforward matter. This section is divided into specific
materials and areas of interior detailing. Read the areas that apply to your vehicle.



CAR VACUUMING

There's no special science to car vacuuming. You need a good vacuum, a few attachments, and
ten to fifteen minutes to get in there and get the job done.
                                A special car vacuum, such as this Vac N'Blo Portable Vacuum
                                from Metropolitan Vacuum has all of the right attachments for
                                car detailing. This car vacuum is under 18" long and only 7" in
                                diameter. It comes with a 12' power cord, a shoulder strap, a 6'
                                flexible hose, two 20" extensions, a blower nozzle, pik-all
                                nozzle, dust brush, crevice tool, inflator adapter and a 4-piece
                                microcleaning tool kit.



The two most important attachments are the crevice attachment and the dust brush attachment.
Make sure your crevice attachment is plastic, not metal. A metal attachment or a plastic
attachment that's in poor condition may scratch or otherwise damage leather or vinyl upholstery.

Use the crevice tool to reach between and under seats, into tight seams, nooks and crannies, and
around seat beads. Vigorous movement on the carpet helps to bring up sand and grit.

Use the round dust brush attachment to vacuum the console, dash and vents. You can assist with
the dusting by using an interior detailing brush ahead of the vacuum to get deep into vents and
cracks.

Here are the steps for proper vacuuming:

      Start your vacuuming job by pulling out the floor mats. Shake out the mats to remove
       any loose dirt. Use a 4" upholstery attachment or the bare hose end to vigorously vacuum
       the mats. The more you’re able to agitate the carpet, the cleaner you’ll get it.

      Work on the rear upholstery and carpet. Push the front seats all the way forward. Use
       the crevice tool to vacuum the cracks of the seats, and between the seats and carpeted
       areas. If the seat upholstery is fabric, switch to the 4" upholstery attachment and vacuum
       the rear seat and the deck under the rear window. Vacuum the rear carpet. Use the
       crevice tool to vacuum around the seat tracks and under the front seats. Use the round
       dust brush attachment to vacuum the door panels.

      Push the front seats all the way back to work on the front upholstery. Use the crevice
       tool to vacuum the cracks of the seats, between the seats and carpeted areas, and around
       the gas and brake pedals. Now switch to the 4" upholstery attachment to vacuum the
       carpet in the foot wells and the seats (if the seats are fabric). Use the round dust brush
       attachment to vacuum the console, vents and door panels.

      If your headliner is fabric, use the round dust brush attachment to vacuum the headliner.
       Be gentle, though, as this material is not as durable as your seat upholstery.

Tip: When vacuuming carpet, use the palm of your free hand to beat the carpet just in front of
your vacuum hose or tool. As you beat the carpet, dirt that is lodged deep into the carpet will
come loose for vacuuming.
CLEANING AND TREATING YOUR DASHBOARD & CONSOLE

We look at the dashboard and console more than any other area of our car's interior. It makes
sense, therefore, that we should give it some special attention. The dash and the deck under the
rear window also take the brunt of damage from sun exposure. In order to keep your dash from
cracking and fading, regular treatment is necessary.

Caring for the dash and console is really pretty easy. Simply wipe them down with a damp
Cobra Microfiber Towel every time you wash your car, and treat them with a vinyl protectant
once a month. To reduce the effects of the sun's UV rays, use products like Detailer's Pro Series
Interior Surface Protectant, 303 Aerospace Protectant or Sonus Total Eclipse, which contain
protective UV sunscreens. These are my personal favorites because they create a nice satin
finish.

The easiest way to treat the dash and console is to use a foam applicator pad. Spray your vinyl
protectant on the applicator, not on the dash or console, and wipe it in thoroughly. This will
prevent overspray on your glass and upholstery. Don't forget to protect the steering wheel, turn
signal levers and the shift boot. Allow the vinyl protectant to soak in for 3 to 5 minutes, and then
buff the dash and console dry with a Cobra All Purpose Microfiber Towel.

If you're doing a complete interior detail, you should also dust and clean out the vents and
grillwork. There are a variety of tools that work in vents and grilles. The easiest are a small
detailing brush and compressed air. If you don't have compressed air, you can use the blow
cycle on your vacuum. For heavily soiled interior surfaces, use Detailer's Pro Series Total
Interior Cleaner.

If your vents are disgustingly dirty, use a cotton swab or foam swab to clean out the dirt. A
good vinyl cleaner and protectant works well on a foam swab to clean and beautify vents and
speaker grilles.

On consoles with a lot of nooks and crannies, it's best to use a soft bristled brush followed by a
towel to clean and protect. This same method works well around buttons and controls on the
dash. Aerosol products like Stoner Trim Shine also work well in detailing areas and spots where
your towel and finger can't reach.



CLEANING AND TREATING DOOR PANELS & JAMBS

Door panels are often made of several materials, including fabric, vinyl, carpet and leather.
Vinyl can be scrubbed to remove shoe scuffs. General-purpose cleaners, like 303 Aerospace
Cleaner, or interior vinyl and plastic cleaners, like Sonus ALL-IN-1 Total Auto Cleaner, or
Detailer's Pro Series Waterless Auto Wash easily remove black scuff marks from these areas.
Thoroughly clean around door handles, pulls and window cranks, using a toothbrush and soapy
wash water. Be sure to clean and dry the speaker grilles and the wells on armrests, too. If the
door panels have storage pockets, use your sponge or wash mitt to clean in these areas, as they
tend to collect a lot of dirt and crud. Next, use your sponge or wash mitt and soapy water to
clean all the way around the door frame and the doorsill. When you're finished, dry the door
completely with a clean towel.

If your door panel is leather or vinyl, be sure to treat it with a leather or vinyl protectant. Fabric
door panels can be treated with a fabric protectant, like 303 High Tech Fabric Guard, to reduce
staining and fading. Even if lightly soiled, it’s always a good idea to use an interior cleaner like
Detailer's Pro Series Total Interior Cleaner first, this way the panels are prepped for a protective
coating. Keep in mind, you can use leather cleaners on vinyl, but I would not use a vinyl specific
cleaner on leather. Combo products like Pinnacle Leather &Vinyl Cleaner are safe on both
surfaces.



DETAILING VINYL AND PLASTIC PARTS

Vinyl and plastic are the most durable interior materials, but they do need frequent cleaning.
Unlike cloth, the surfaces of vinyl and plastic generate static, which tends to attract dust. As a
result, vinyl and plastic become grimy. The good news is, vinyl and plastic are the easiest
surfaces to clean.

Do not use regular household soap and water on your vinyl and plastic surfaces. Detergent will
permanently remove the sheen from vinyl and plastic. Choose a cleaner made specifically for
interior surfaces. One of my personal favorite is Detailer's Pro Series Total Interior Cleaner,
which is a quick spray-and-wipe solution that does not require rinsing. It's also safe on all
interior surfaces. For dirtier panels, some agitation may be required to loosen grime.

Follow these easy steps for the perfect vinyl interior:

      Spray vinyl, plastic and imitation leather surfaces with Detailer's Pro Series Total Interior
       Cleaner or your favorite cleaner.
      Work the cleaning solution into seams, edges and seat backs with a sponge or cleaning
       cloth. If you have stubborn dirt, use an upholstery scrub brush. If necessary, use an soft
       bristle brush to get into the small crevices.
      If your cleaner requires rinsing, wash the vinyl and plastic thoroughly with fresh water
       and a clean microfiber detailing towel.
      Dry the upholstery with a clean, dry Cobra microfiber detailing towel.
      Allow the vinyl and plastic to dry, and then apply your favorite vinyl dressing to restore
       protection and sheen. Fan favorites include Detailer's Pro Series Interior Surface
       Protectant and Wolfgang Vinyl & Rubber Protectant.
                                                 Apply a dressing like Sonus Total Eclipse to all
                                                 vinyl and plastic surfaces to protect and
                                                 beautify. It is important to use a product
                                                 containing UV protection to prevent fading and
                                                 severe damage. Wipe off excess dressing. The
                                                 finish should have a nice clean look.

                                                 For premium protection, use Pinnacle Vinyl &
                                                 Rubber Protectant. This amazing product offers
                                                 amazing protection and a satin finish to vinyl and
                                                 plastic.

A quick word about vinyl dressings: they’re not all the same. Choose a dressing that gives you
the look you want (flat to shiny). 303 Aerospace Protectant creates a matte finish, whereas
Detailer's Pro Series Interior Surface Protectant creates an attractive satin finish. Ultima Interior
Guard Plus has the unique characteristic of taking on the original surface finish. So, when
applied to a matte finish, Ultima Interior Guard Plus looks flat and applied to a glossy finish, like
wood trim, Ultima Interior Guard Plus takes on a high gloss finish. Another thing to consider is
protection from the sun. All of the products mentioned above offer good UV light protection.



CLEANING CARPETS AND FLOOR MATS

Most automotive carpets are very durable and will withstand repeated shampooing without signs
of damage or wear. Carpet cleaning is not fast or easy. You should expect to spend 2 to 3 hours
shampooing the front and rear carpet and mats in a sedan or SUV, a little less time for a truck or
two-seater.

Before shampooing, the carpet and floor mats must be thoroughly vacuumed. To do a complete
job, it may be necessary to remove the front seats, which requires the correct size Allen or socket
wrench.

Follow these easy steps:

      Spray spots and heavily soiled areas with a good spot remover. I recommend a product
       like Wolfgang Spot Eliminator or 303 Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner.
      Fill a bucket with 2 gallons of warm water.
      Lightly spray a section of carpet (no more than 2 square feet at a time) with your carpet
       and upholstery cleaner. Use an upholstery brush or a sponge in a circular motion to
       agitate the upholstery. Dip your brush in water to keep it wet, but apply as little water as
       possible.
      Wipe away the suds with a sponge or a damp detailing towel.
      Empty your bucket of soapy water and refill with clean, warm water.
      Rinse your carpet with clean water by wiping with a damp terry cloth towel. Rinse the
       soap from your towel often and wring it out. Use as little water as possible, but rinse
       thoroughly.
      Vacuum your carpet to extract the remaining rinse water.
      If you're not working on a warm, sunny day, use a hair dryer to complete the drying
       process. Be careful not to scorch the carpet by holding the dryer too close.
      Allow the carpet to dry overnight before using.

                                                  After shampooing, use a Cobra Supreme Guzzler
                                                  Microfiber Drying Towel, wet-dry vacuum or an
                                                  extractor to remove as much water and shampoo
                                                  as possible.




To keep your carpet and floor mats looking great, use a fabric protectant like 303 High Tech
Fabric Guard. It's really cheap insurance against spills and stains.



CAR INTERIOR DETAILING SUMMARY

Most of us spend 8 to 15 hours a week inside our cars, so it makes sense that we should keep
them neat and tidy. Yet finding the time to detail the inside of the car is difficult with our busy
schedules. If you take just five minutes each time you wash your car to remove the trash, shake
out the mats, and wipe down the dash, console and seats, you can stay on top of this detailing
chore. Then when it comes time for a full interior detail, the task will not seem quite so
daunting.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-cockpit.html
Engine detailing is nothing more than cleaning the exterior of the engine and the engine
compartment, and applying dressing to protect and beautify the engine. It's very easy to do, and
requires no more than 45 minutes to an hour every couple of months.



ENGINE DETAILING

The first step in cleaning your engine is to remove the excess debris that gets trapped in your
hood, grille and vent openings. This is particularly true if you live in an area with four seasons.
If you have compressed air available, this is the best way to remove old leaves, dust and such. If
you don't, a simple hand brush will suffice.

The next very important step is to prepare your engine for getting wet. You must cover all
sensors, the distributor, spark plug openings and any electrical devices that have the potential for
water accumulation (which could cause a short). Use plastic baggies to cover these items. Be
sure to use tape or rubber bands to hold the plastic bags in place. You're only trying to prevent
the majority of the water from getting in; it does not need to be watertight. The engine
environment should already be waterproof. The baggies are just a precaution.

To loosen the grease accumulated on your engine and the engine compartment, start your engine
and allow it to warm for a few minutes. The best temperature for cleaning your engine is warm
to the touch, but not hot. If you're able to hold your hand to the engine without saying "Ouch,"
then the temperature is just about right.



APPLYING DEGREASER

After warming the engine and protecting sensitive areas, you're ready to apply an engine
degreaser. Although they are quick and easy, I warn people against the use of harsh petroleum-
based cleaners in the engine compartment. They quickly cut through grease and grime, but they
also deteriorate your rubber and vinyl components (not to mention what they do to our
environment!). As an alternative, use a citrus or water-based cleaner. A great alternative to
harsh solvents is Detailer's Pro Series Engine Degreaser. It’s an environmentally safe cleaner
that makes a great alternative to those petroleum-based cleaners.
When applying your engine degreaser, it's best to start from the lower areas and work your way
up. This prevents the degreaser from dripping on you as you clean the underside areas. One
important thing to remember: the engine degreaser will remove the wax from the painted
surfaces of your car. If you get degreaser overspray on your fenders, plan on re-waxing these
areas.

When you have applied your engine degreaser, be sure to wash any excess cleaner from the
exterior painted surfaces of the fenders, hood and grille. I like to spray these areas with water
first.

Depending on the amount of accumulated grease, allow the degreaser to soak on the engine for 3
to 5 minutes. During those few minutes, you want to keep an eye on the degreaser. You don’t
want it to become dry on the surface. For light to mild levels of grease, you will not need to use
a brush on the engine and other surfaces. For heavy soil, you can use a long-handled brush (parts
brush) and car wash solution to provide additional cleaning action prior to hosing off the
degreaser. Agitating the grease with a soft to medium bristle brush is the most efficient way to
break up the grime during rinsing.



                                                 Use a soft parts cleaning brush get into cracks
                                                 and around parts. If your engine compartment
                                                 has a heavy accumulation of dirt, you may need
                                                 to spray with cleaner, brush, and rinse several
                                                 times. An old toothbrush works great in tight
                                                 areas that other brushes can't reach.




HOSING ENGINE OFF

When you are ready to remove the degreaser, hose down the entire engine compartment and
surrounding surfaces with plenty of water. If you're using a high-pressure nozzle, be careful that
you don't get the nozzle too close to the covered electrical connectors. Using an attachment like
the Fire Hose Nozzle gives you better control and a more even flow than most hose attachments.
Allow your engine to air dry for several minutes before using a towel to wipe down all accessible
parts. Remove the plastic bags. The heat from the engine will assist in the drying process;
however, do not allow the engine to air dry, as this will result in water spots. When dry, start
your engine and allow it to run for a few minutes.

*Here's a handy tip for you. After your final rinse use your vacuum (if it can blow forced air) or
an air compressor to blow water off the engine for a spot-free finish. The Vac B' Blo vacuum
makes quick work of the job.



                                                 Rinse with a stiff stream of water using a Fire
                                                 Hose Nozzle to remove as much of the grease
                                                 and grime as possible. Be sure to avoid electrical
                                                 connections and other sensitive areas. After
                                                 rinsing, start the engine immediately. Allow it to
                                                 run for about 5 minutes to help dry things out.




PROTECT AND BEAUTIFY

When everything is dry, and your engine has cooled, you should apply a coating of engine
protectant. If you don't have an engine protectant, use your rubber and vinyl protectant to coat
your hoses, wires, and plastic shields. To add a quick shine and protection to the painted
surfaces in the engine compartment, use a high-quality detailing spray like Pinnacle Crystal Mist
Detail Spray. Just spray it on all surfaces, and wipe off the excess with a clean microfiber towel.


After drying the engine, spray all of the rubber hoses and plastic parts with a rubber and vinyl
protectant, like 303 Aerospace Protectant. Wipe off excess protectant and buff to a nice satin
finish.

Don't underestimate the need to protect your engine after detailing. The factory applies a heavy
coating of high temperature wax that protects for several years. When you remove this coating
corrosion will begin. One of the few products available to do a proper job is Sonus Trim and
Motor Kote. It is a spray-on and walk away product. Before using a product like Sonus Trim &
Motor Kote mask off with plastic or large detailing towels. This will help avoid a cleaning up a
big mess.

CAR ENGINE DETAILING SUMMARY

Many car enthusiasts find that detailing their engine is just the beginning of a long road toward
engine beautification. Other embellishments include polishing aluminum parts, painting key
parts with bright colors, and adding chrome. Whatever you choose, make it your style, and have
fun.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-engine.html




CLEANING AND CONDITIONING LEATHER UPHOLSTERY

There are two cleaning-related factors that can cause your leather to wear prematurely. The
first is dirt, and the second is oil from your skin. The oil from your skin is actually the most
damaging to your leather. This is particularly true when you wear shorts or a tank top, and have
recently applied lotion or sunscreen to your skin. Take this into consideration when determining
your cleaning schedule.

Unlike fabric or vinyl upholstery, leather should be cleaned one section at a time. This
means that once you have applied your cleaner or conditioner to one area, you should fully wipe
down that area, and then proceed to the next and so on. Work on an area no larger than 2 to 3
square feet at a time.

If you have a dark-colored leather interior, I recommend cleaning twice a year. Light-
colored leather will need more frequent cleaning, even as often as every 3 months, depending on
how readily the dirt shows. In between cleanings, use a clean, damp towel to wipe down the
surface completely. This removes the dust and light soiling so it won’t have a chance to work
into your leather.

Follow these steps to clean your car's leather:

      Apply the leather cleaner of your choice one section at a time, and work the solution into
       a nice lather with a sponge. If your leather is heavily soiled, use an upholstery (interior
       detailing) brush.
      When finished scrubbing, be sure to remove all soap from the surface with a damp towel.
      Rinse and wipe several times, and then dry the leather with a fresh, dry terry cloth towel.

By the way, water will not hurt your leather. Most leather is actually made (tanned) in water.

After your car's leather has dried, apply the leather conditioner of your choice. Choose a leather
protectant that gives you the look you want (flat to shiny). Sonus Leather Conditioner creates a
nice matte finish on coated and noncoated leather upholstery. 303 Aerospace Protectant leaves a
nice satin finish, but it should be used only on coated leather. Lexol Leather Conditioner is a
well-known favorite that creates a glossy finish.
                                   Apply cream based products like Sonus Leather Conditioner
                                   using a foam applicator. Be sure to get the leather wet with
                                   conditioner and give it time to absorb. After a few minutes you
                                   can wipe away any excess with a soft, dry cloth. Your leather
                                   should look fresh and new, not slick and greasy.




Just as in cleaning, apply leather conditioner one section at a time. Using a foam wax
applicator, work the conditioner in thoroughly. Allow the conditioner to soak in 1 to 2 minutes,
then buff off the excess with a dry terry cloth towel or microfiber towel. It's important to buff off
the excess. If you allow the excess to stay, your seats will be slippery. After a few minutes of
soak time, your leather has taken in all the moisture it can. The remainder will simply evaporate,
leaving that nasty film on the inside of your windows.

Simplify your search for quality leather care products with a complete leather care kit, such as
the Pinnacle Concours Interior Kit and Wolfgang Leather Care Cockpit Kit.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/cleaning-leather-upholstery.html
CAR INTERIOR DETAILING: A SYSTEMATIC APPROACH

The interior of your car takes a lot of abuse. Unlike the inside of your home, which has many
times more square footage, the inside of your car gets repeated, concentrated traffic. Each time
you get in your car, you drag in more dirt. Each time you eat or drink in your car, you add a few
more crumbs and spills. In fact, just sitting in your car, you drop hair, dead skin, makeup and
other contaminants. All of this dirt and junk adds up very fast.

It is not necessary to fully detail the inside of your car each time you wash it. Unless you've been
to the beach, out in the mud, or tracking in grass and leaves, you can probably get away with
vacuuming and a quick wipe-down every couple of weeks.

Weekly Car Interior Cleanup

Here's what I recommend as a weekly routine for the interior:

      Wipe down all vinyl, leather and plastic surfaces with a damp cloth. A microfiber
       detailing towel is excellent for this task, as it will leave a lint-free, dust-free finish.
      Pull out your floor mats, and shake or brush off the dirt and debris.
      Pick up trash (that old banana peel you tossed into the backseat), and empty the ashtray
       and console storage bins.
      Wipe down your door jambs and doorsills with a damp towel.
      Wipe down your interior glass and your rearview mirror with a damp microfiber detailing
       towel. If your windows are relatively clean, you don't need to use a glass cleaner.

Very recently, a new product category has emerged for the car interior that's equivalent to the
exterior quick detailing spray. Interior cockpit sprays, like Sonus Cockpit Detailer, combine light
cleaning and protective capabilities in a spray-and-wipe system. If you're looking for an interior
product that keeps your cockpit looking perfect, you might give it a try. In my mind, this is a
much better solution than layer after layer of protectant.
                                                 A weekly wipe down with the Sonus Cockpit
                                                 Detailer keeps your vehicle fresh and prevents
                                                 the need for heavy cleaning later.




Monthly Car Interior Detailing

Once a month your car's interior will need a little more than a quick wipe-down. After a month,
your interior glass will have some film buildup, the carpet will need to be vacuumed, and the
dash, console and other vinyl parts will need to have their protection renewed. Here's what I
recommend:

      Follow all of the steps for the Weekly Interior Cleanup.
      Vacuum the interior carpet, seats, seat crevices and console.
      Clean the interior glass with a good glass cleaner and a microfiber detailing towel.
      Apply a vinyl protectant with an ultraviolet (UV) light inhibitor to the dash, console and
       tops of door panels (the areas with the most sun exposure). I find that a foam applicator
       works the best.

Quarterly Interior Detailing

      Follow all of the steps for the Monthly Interior Detailing. Follow all Monthly Interior
       Detailing Steps.
      Clean and protect all leather and vinyl upholstery.
      Clean and protect all rubber door, trunk and hood seals.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/interior-cleaning-checklist.html
Cleaning your windows is one of the most tedious tasks you will face, but it is definitely worth
doing. In addition to being a hazard, the effect of dirty glass can quickly ruin the appearance of
your perfectly polished and waxed automobile. After you have completed all other detailing
tasks, put the perfect touch on your car by detailing your car's glass.

AUTOMOTIVE GLASS CLEANERS

Just as in the selection of car shampoo and car wax, no two car enthusiasts can agree on the
ultimate auto glass cleaner for their car. Some people like ammonia cleaners, while the purists
will use nothing but clear water. Whatever you use, the principles are the same: clean, dry
and polish.

I highly discourage the use of ammonia-based glass cleaners on your car. While ammonia is
a great glass cleaner for the home, ammonia is harmful to many car surfaces, including vinyl,
rubber and leather. More importantly, the use of ammonia inside your car is harmful to your
health. Use an automotive glass cleaner that specifically states it's safe to use on window-tint
film. A glass cleaner that's safe for window-tint film will not harm the plastic and vinyl surfaces
on your car.

                                                 The grime on this Honda S2000's glass was so
                                                 bad the wipers and washers would not cut
                                                 through it. This is a dangerous situation for the
                                                 driver. A 303 Instant Windshield Washer Tablet
                                                 was added to the owner's wash reservoir as a
                                                 booster. A proper cleaning solution in your
                                                 windshield washer is necessary for safe driving.
CLEANING CAR WINDOWS

Start your car window cleaning with the driver's door and front passenger's door. If your
door has a window frame, lower the window approximately 1 inch to allow access to the top part
of the glass. This part should be cleaned and dried first.

Spray with quality glass cleaner and buff dry. Now roll the window back up, and clean the
remainder of the window. Pay attention to the corners of the windows, as this is where you will
get most smears and streaks. Don't forget your driver's side and passenger's side mirrors.

While you're sitting down in the passenger's seat, clean the inside of the windshield. It is easier to
clean from the passenger's side, as your access is not obstructed by the steering wheel. Take
your time around the rearview mirror, as it is only glued to your windshield. If you bump
into the rearview mirror hard enough or at the right angle, you can break it loose from the glass.

The inside of the rear window is the most difficult to reach and should be done last. The
best technique for cleaning your rear window is to use the back side of your hand to guide your
towel down into the corners. Trying to use the palm of your hand will force you to be a
contortionist and you will draw strange looks from your neighbors.



MICROFIBER DETAILING TOWELS

While microfiber glass towels work great, you can go crazy trying to keep the different towels
and their purposes straight. You can end up with dark blue, light blue, green, orange and pink
towels, which can get nuts! The waffle weave glass towels are the best general-purpose towels,
and they work great on glass and clear plastic.

If you're looking for a specific glass microfiber towel, generally the towels with a deep, plush
nap do not work well on glass. The best microfiber towels for glass have a low pile and a tight
weave. The tight weave gives them a little more scrubbing power.

Be cautious of cheap microfiber towels. There's a good chance that any microfiber towel you
purchase in bulk through a retail chain will leave lint on your glass. Fiber shedding is a
significant problem with bulk towels, because most of these products are created for
janitorial services.



CLEANING WATER-SPOTTED GLASS

The windshield is one of the most overlooked surface on most cars. At best, you wash it
when you wash the car and spray it with a few shots of glass cleaner when you can no longer see
through the haze. Did you ever think of polishing your glass?
Normal driving will coat your windshield with a variety of contaminants that normal glass
cleaners cannot remove. Plus, your windshield has the greatest vertical forward exposure,
which means it gets pelted with road stones and other debris. It's a wonder that windshields hold
up as well as they do.

Automotive glass polishes that remove minor water spots and road contamination have been
around for quite a while (although they are not always easy to find). I highly recommend using a
glass-polishing product like Detailer's Pro Series High Performance Glass Restorer to keep glass
clean and free of water spots. It’s simple to do. Just rub the polish in thoroughly with a foam
applicator, and buff dry with a microfiber towel.

If you have severe water spotting, you can use Detailer's Pro Series High Performance Glass
Restorer with a glass cutting pad (use on exterior only!) for a bit more cutting power for the
really tough jobs.

Please be aware that a glass polish cannot fix glass damage from road stones and severe
water spot etching. If your glass is badly pitted or etched, it may need to be replaced.



WINDSHIELD WIPER CARE

Windshield wipers are essential for cleaning your windshield and rear window in rain or snow,
or when your windows become bug-ridden or dirty from long road trips. Wipers perform best
when the rubber is in good shape and the glass is fairly clean. You should make it a habit to
clean your front and rear wiper blades at the same time you clean your glass. After cleaning
your glass, use a damp cloth to wipe the rubber blades, removing bug residue, wax and other dirt
buildup.

Although rubber dressing helps preserve, protect and beautify the rubber and vinyl parts on your
car, you should not use dressings on your wiper blades. Rubber dressing on your blades will
cause streaking and smearing, impairing your vision. The best overall maintenance of your
blades is keeping them clean. If you want to protect your blades, use a product like 303 Wiper
Treatment. If you have expensive after-market blades, 303 Wiper Treatment will make them last
twice as long.

A good wash fluid is just as important as your wiper blades. Pick a wash fluid with enough
power to cut the grime, but don't use something so harsh that it stains your car. I was using a
popular orange wash booster, but it created these horrible white stains around my windshield. I
finally switched to 303 Instant Windshield Washer Tablets, which performs flawlessly for me in
all conditions.

FINAL TOUCHES ON CLEANING CAR WINDOWS

If your car is a year or more old, a close inspection may reveal dirt buildup in the corners of your
windshield and rear window around the trim. To remove this caked-on gunk, use an old
toothbrush or detailing brush with your spray cleaner. Before cleaning, lay a towel at the
base of the window to catch drips.

Spray your brush with window cleaner and shake off the excess cleaner. Use your brush to
scrub along the trim, breaking loose the dirt. Use the tip of a cotton swab to reach underneath
trim and remove trapped dirt. If your brush won't remove the buildup of dirt, use a sharp single-
edged razor blade to gently remove the dirt from your glass. Take care not to push your razor
blade too far under rubber seals, as this may cause leaks.

On the rear window, stay clear of defroster strips that are not embedded in the glass. Cutting the
defroster strips will render them useless. Follow up after the razor blade with your brush and
glass cleaner.

CLEANING YOUR CAR'S TINTED WINDOW FILM

Tinted window film is often applied to the inside of windows to shade passengers or provide
privacy. Tinted window film is a thin sheet of Mylar plastic. Mylar scratches easily and will be
destroyed by ammonia. To clean tinted windows, use water or a mild cleaner such as
Diamondite Perfect Vision Glass Cleaner.

Tinted window film that has been scratched can be polished with cleaners designed for the vinyl
windows often found on convertible tops. The product I recommend for polishing and regular
maintenance of tinted window film is Plexus. Plexus comes in an aerosol spray can and is safe
for use on plastic, Plexiglas and tinted window film. In addition to polishing your tinted window
film, Plexus works great on your taillight and headlight covers.

MAINTAINING CLEAR PLASTIC

Maintaining clear plastics and window tinting is tricky. These materials will scratch easily and
lose their original clarity. I highly recommend the use of Detailer's Pro Series Plex-All on plastic.
Use Detailer's Pro Series Plex-All on window tinting, convertible rear windows, headlight
lenses, instrument panel lenses and other clear plastic surfaces. To use Detailer's Pro Series
Plex-All, simply spray and wipe. That's it! There's no buffing, no mess and no waste.

                                         The headlight lenses on most new cars are plastic. If you
                                         don't polish the lenses every few months, they will
                                         yellow and haze. Detailer's Pro Series Plex-All is a great
                                         product to use for regular cleaning and polishing.
POLISHING SCRATCHED AND YELLOWED PLASTIC (INCLUDING
HEADLIGHTS!)

The days of the glass headlight are long gone. Most vehicles made since 1990 have plastic
lenses covering the headlights. These lenses protect expensive lamps from flying stones and road
debris, but over time they discolor and become chipped from road stones.

Without proper care, plastic headlight lenses will degrade until they turn opaque, which
severely restricts the amount of light reaching the road. Most of the damage is caused by
exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light. If you live in a southern state, headlight lens discoloration will
become noticeable in as little as 2 or 3 years.

To maintain your plastic headlight lenses and taillights, I recommend regular use of Detailer's
Pro Series Plex-All. It is a combination cleaner, polish and protectant. When used regularly,
Detailer's Pro Series Plex-All will protect plastic lenses and windows from UV damage.

Detailer's Pro Series Plex-All will not repair damaged or scratched plastic. For this you will
need a plastic safe abrasive polish, such as Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #17 Plastic Cleaner or
Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #10 Plastic Polish. Use Meguiar's #17 Plastic Cleaner to remove heavy
clouding and surfaces scratches. Use Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #10 Plastic Polish to maintain as-
new gloss and appearance. Annual polishing with a polish will restore the transparency of plastic
windows and headlight lenses.

AUTOMOTIVE GLASS & PLASTIC SUMMARY

Few people enjoy cleaning car windows. If you find the right tools and cleaners, this chore will
be much easier. Some people hate doing the interior windows so much that they rotate which
windows they clean each time they wash, such as one week cleaning the windshield, and the next
week, the side windows. With the advent of microfiber towels, window cleaning has become
much easier.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-glass.html
CAR INTERIOR STAINS & ODORS

With our active lifestyles and the amount of time we spend in our cars, the average car interior is
easy prey for a myriad of stains and odors. Stain and odor removal is almost a science unto
itself. Upholstery fabrics and carpets vary widely, as do the types of stains. However, in my
experience, there is a correct method and a suitable cleaner for most car interior problems.



CAR INTERIOR PROTECTION

Common upholstery fabrics are more likely to stain than vinyl or leather. To best prevent
stains altogether, it is necessary to properly treat upholstery, carpet, vinyl and leather. The best
treatment for carpet and fabric is a spray-on fabric guard product. To protect vinyl and leather,
simply use your favorite cleaner and protectant on a regular basis.

When the inevitable happens, and your three-year-old drops (or barfs!) his mustard-loaded hot
dog on your brand-new velour upholstery, stay calm. Remove as much of the spill as possible
by blotting, not wiping, with paper napkins, paper towels, etc. Don't let the stain sit too long
before you get to work on it. Within a day or two, most spills will set and permanently stain
your upholstery, or become very difficult to remove. It will only take one such incident for you
to realize that a $15 investment in fabric and carpet protection is worth every penny.



CAR UPHOLSTERY STAIN REMOVAL BASICS

Even without protection, you would be amazed at how easy it is to clean up most stains with
nothing more than a neutral detergent and water. A neutral detergent has a pH of 7 (on a
scale of 0 to 14). A detergent with a pH of less than 7 means it is acidic, whereas a pH higher
than 7 is alkaline. Neutral detergents will not bleach fabric or remove fabric protection. Interior
car detailing tools you’ll need to remove interior stains include:

      Spatula or putty knife
      Clean, white terry cloth towels
      Upholstery scrub brush
      Wet-dry vacuum
      A reliable interior stain remover, such as 303 Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner

Use the spatula or putty knife to remove as much of the solid material as possible. The vacuum
can also be a lifesaver by removing large particles of any substance that would stain if you
rubbed it or moved it around. The idea is to remove as much of the contamination as possible
before you begin wiping or scrubbing.

Next, spray the stain heavily with your cleaner, and allow it a minute or so to work. Don't scrub
the stain just yet. Use a towel and blot it up. Again, you don't want to spread the mess.

Spray the stain again, and use your scrub brush with warm water to scrub the stain. This should
remove the remaining elements of the stain material. Rinse with fresh water and a terry cloth
towel, and then blot dry and vacuum.

Some stains, no matter what you try, will be permanent. If an indelible stain has penetrated
the fibers of a material, it will not come out. You might be able to make the stain less noticeable,
but no cleaner or method will remove all of the stain. You will have to live with it or have the
section of carpet or upholstery replaced. In some cases, leather and vinyl stains can be fixed by
color-matching the area with a leather or vinyl repair system (a job for a professional).



REMOVING CAR ODORS

I get a lot of questions about removing smells. The most common questions are "How do I
remove the smell of cigarette smoke?" and "My child vomited. How do I get rid of the smell?"
Most bad smells in cars are organic (e.g., food, urine, vomit, tobacco, grass, mold, mildew,
etc.). I recently had a professional detailer tell me a client had spilled fish in his car, which I
know from experience is not pleasant. As a teen I hid an open can of sardines under the seat of a
neighbor's car. They had to sell the car to get rid of the smell!

Odor problems are pretty easy to take care of with some of the new cleaners on the market. Two
very popular choices are the Dakota Odor Bomb and Detailer’s Pro Series Dual Action Odor
Eliminator. The enzymes kill odors in their tracks by stopping organic material from
decomposing. Don't use it, and you'll be smelling that odor for a long time. These products also
double as air fresheners and are available in a wide variety of scents to choose from.

Tobacco smoke is one of the most difficult smells to remove from a car. The smoke
permeates everything, including the foam rubber used in seat cushions. You can successfully
remove most of the tobacco smell by thoroughly shampooing the carpets, upholstery and
headliner. After cleaning thoroughly, use Dakota Odor Eliminator to complete the job.



CAR AIR CONDITIONER ODORS

Another common source of interior car odors is the air conditioning (A/C) system. That foul
smell from your car's A/C is not only offensive, but it can also be bad for you. The air entering
into your car passes over the A/C evaporator (the cooling element). When you operate your car's
A/C, water condenses around the evaporator coils. The moisture on the evaporator makes it a
magnet for air pollutants, including dust, dirt, grime, pollen, spores and germs. These pollutants
form bacteria, dust mites and fungi, which all add up to create the bad smell that often occurs in
A/C systems.

Most luxury cars now offer filter canisters to remove pollutants from the air entering the car.
However, the smell may still remain. In any case, it's still a good idea to treat your car's A/C
each year with a quality odor remover. The product I prefer is Dakota Odor Eliminator. Simply
spray the product into the exterior air intake vents and the inside heat and A/C vents. It
eliminates odors caused by bacteria, fungi, mildew and stagnant water.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/removing-odors-stains.html
Pinnacle and XMT Complete Paint Care System


You’ve spent plenty of money on the purchase of your car or truck, now the question arises,
"How do I take care of it?”. The answer is vital to retaining the value of your vehicle and
reducing future costs.

This article will help walk through the Pinnacle Complete Paint Care System of washing,
claying, polishing, protecting and the final maintaining processes step by step. Don’t worry, it’s
pretty easy and you don’t need to be a detailer to do it yourself!




                          WASH – CLEAN – POLISH – PROTECT – MAINTAIN



      Wash – Thoroughly wash your car to remove loose dirt.
      Clean – Clean your paint with detailing clay to remove bonded surface contamination that is
       stuck to the paint and is not removed with normal washing.
      Polish – Remove defects in your paint, staining and enhance overall shine.
      Protect – Protect the paint surface from harsh environmental elements and prevent premature
       aging with a wax or paint sealant.
      Maintain – Maintain your paint with normal washing and quick detailing in between washing.
STEP 1 - WASHING YOUR CAR



The car washing process can range from those who religiously wash or quick detail their vehicles
daily, to those who love caring for their vehicle but only get the chance to wash them weekly or
every other week. Both categories of enthusiasts cringe at the very thought of taking their “baby”
to a car wash, otherwise known as “automatic swirl factories”!

The car washing process is the number one cause of swirl marks! This can be avoided with
quality car wash mitts, car wash shampoos, microfiber drying towels and a few other important
tools as well as a little education. By just following the correct process you will have the know
how to wash your car in a manner that gets it clean and reduces the chances of your instilling
swirls in your paint.



DIRECTIONS

      Always wash your car in the shade! Why? Well simple, you don’t want the water, be it the rinse
       water or the car wash solution, drying on the vehicle. Remember, we are trying to make your
       car look better than when you started! On that note, if at all possible, try to wash your car on a
       relatively calm day. You would be shocked at how even a slight breeze can put particulates and
       dirt into the air. These dust particles are attracted to the wash/rinse water on your vehicle and
       act like sandpaper when rubbed between the drying towel and vehicle surface. The breeze will
       also tend to dry your car for you and cause streaks and water spots.




                       Use two buckets with a Gritguards in each bucket. One is for your car wash
       shampoo solution and the other is clean rinse water for your wash mitt.
      Fill a 5-gallon bucket 2/3 full with cool water. Add
       recommended amount of car wash shampoo to
       the water. Using a stiff jet of water, fill bucket to
       fully activate suds. Fill the second bucket with
       clean, water for rinsing your mitt.
      Thoroughly rinse the vehicle’s surface to remove
       the accumulated loose dirt and grime before you
       begin your car wash procedure.
      Only use high quality car shampoos
       and wash mitts.
      When washing your vehicle remember
       to always go from high to low, never                         the opposite. Generally the dirtiest
       parts of your vehicle are those parts closest to the ground. Wheel wells, rocker panels and
      bumpers tend to have the largest accumulation of grunge and you don’t want to bring that junk
      back onto the paint surface and risk scratching it. A trick that I use here is to load up a wash mitt
      with my car wash solution and wring it out over the wash surface. This acts like a “pre-soak” and
      helps loosen surface gunk It also adds more sudsy water to my surface.




     Keep your wash areas small and rinse your mitt frequently. Don’t try to wash the car in one fell
      swoop. (Unless it’s a Smart Car of course.)




     Wash in straight, overlapping lines as opposed to
      circles and remember to be gentle with the wash
      mitt on the first pass.. This first pass picks up the
      initial junk, and loosens the remaining dirt and
      gunk for pick up on the second pass.
     Rinse your vehicle by opening up your hose nozzle
      or removing the nozzle if you don’t have an open
      flow option and letting water run or sheet over the
      surface instead of spraying. This helps in two ways.
      First, generally when water has “sheeted” off of a surface it tends to leave less residual droplets
      behind. This means less to drying time. Second, since there is less water to pick up, there is less
      chance of your leaving water behind to “spot” the vehicle.
     When you dry your car, use only high quality microfiber waffle weave drying towels like a Cobra
      Guzzler Waffle Weave Drying Towel and wring out often. Gently dry the surface without much
      pressure. You don’t need to rub the surface…you’re just picking up the bulk of the water! Once
      you have picked up the bulk of the water, and the first towel is saturated, use a second towel to
      lightly pick up any remaining streaks or droplets.




     Lastly, if your wax is still in good shape, go over the vehicle with a quick detail spray like the
      Pinnacle Crystal Mist Detail Spray and a plush Cobra Deluxe Jr. 600 Microfiber Buffing Towel to
      restore a radiance and slickness to the paint. This last step will give your vehicle that “just
      detailed” look by enhancing gloss will also remove any sneaky water spots or streaks that
      showed up when you weren’t looking.

STEP 2 - CLAYING YOUR CAR
Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay quickly and easily removes most forms of paint contamination that is
not removed with your normal car wash process. Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay will remove
contaminants like insects, tar, stubborn road grime, exhaust soot, oxidation, pollen, light paint
overspray, factory fallout and more! Detail clay can even take care of stubborn brake dust
contamination.

How do you know if detail clay is what you need? After a good wash, feel the paint's surface.
Rough spots and bumps mean contaminants. The Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay will clean and smooth
your car's paint and get that bonded grime out of the way so you are ready to polish your paint!



IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT use detailing clay on a dirty paint surface. Always wash
your vehicle before claying.

DIRECTIONS




      Use Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay only after thoroughly
       washing your car to remove loose dirt and grime.
      Flatten half of a bar of Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay and
       mold into a flat clay wafer.




      Lightly mist the clay bar and a 2' by 2' area of the
       surface to be cleaned with the Pinnacle Clay
       Lubricant.
      Gently glide the wafer of Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay on the surface in a back and forth motion until
       contamination is gone.
      Fold the clay bar in half and re-flatten frequently to expose a fresh cleaning surface.




IMPORTANT! Discard clay if dropped or when a clean surface can no longer be exposed.

NOTE: This clay is soft and should not be used on hot surfaces or when the air temperature is
above 84 degrees. In extreme summer weather, use during early morning hours. High humidity
conditions may make the bar sticky and difficult to use.



STEP 3 - POLISHING YOUR CAR'S PAINT
You know how you want your vehicle to look but you must also take in to consideration the time
involved, tools needed and, if the damage is severe, your own skill level.



Here are a few things you need to think about before you start your surface evaluation process.



      Products and Tools Available
      Time Available
      Work Space Including Lighting
      Weather Conditions
      Skill Level
      Your Expectations




Now that we know what we have to work with, let’s evaluate the surface of your paint to
determine our plan of attack.



      Overall Paint Condition


       Is your paint new or like new, in need of light polishing for gloss enhancement, requiring minor
       defect removal or is your paint neglected and needing heavy defect removal?

      Paint Hardness




       This is difficult to tell until you start polishing your car. Some paints are harder than
       others making defect removal more difficult so more aggressive products would be
       needed.



      Paint Thickness


       This is difficult to tell unless you have a paint thickness gage. Without a gage, what you need to
       look for is thin spots or any areas that may have been burnt through in the past by
        inexperienced detailers with the wrong type of buffer. If you find a thin area, stay away from
        that area with your polisher. You can't polish out thin paint, it just wears it away.
Individual Paint Defects




       Isolated scratches
       Swirl
       Oxidation
       Paint etching
       Water spots
       Paint staining
       Clarity of overall surface




Now that we know what needs to be corrected we need to choose the proper polish and polishing
pad to correct the defects in your paint’s surface and achieve desired results.



Pinnacle XMT Polishing System:


STEP 1- XMT #3 or #4 – Remove serious defects

The Yellow Light Cutting Lake Country CCS Foam Pad is the first step in serious defect removal such as
random isolated scratches, heavy swirl, severe oxidation, stubborn water etching and other difficult to
remove paint defects.

For the worst defects, use Pinnacle XMT Heavy Duty Swirl Remover #4, which is a true polishing
compound.

If the defects are not as serious, or you're not sure, start with the Orange Light Cutting Lake
Country CCS Foam Pad and Pinnacle XMT Intermediate Swirl Remover. This combination
works on a multitude of paint imperfections.



STEP 2- XMT #2– Remove swirl and minor defects
The White Polishing Lake Country CCS Foam Pad is the second step for minor defect removal
including swirl, fine isolated scratches, water spots, mild water etching, light oxidation and other
less severe paint finish defects.

Use the White Polishing Lake Country CCS Foam Pad for safe and complete removal of medium
to light common defects with Pinnacle XMT Fine Swirl Remover #2.

STEP 3- XMT #1 – Pre wax cleaning and gloss enhancement

The Green Polishing/Finishing Lake Country CCS Foam Pad is your third step in paint
perfection and is used to clean your paint and enhance gloss so you can achieve that desired
deep, wet looking shine.



Use the Green Polishing/Finishing Lake Country CCS Foam Pad for your final gloss
enhancement as well as pre-wax cleaning to prep your surface for proper bonding of car wax,
paint sealant or protectant with the XMT #1 Ultra Fine Swirl Remover or Pinnacle Paintwork
Cleansing Lotion.



DIRECTIONS

Remember to never work in direct sunlight or on a hot surface. Good lighting is also very
important so you are able to evaluate your work during the polishing process.

      Thoroughly wash and dry your car.
      Use a detailing clay to remove bonded surface contamination that is in the way of polishing your
       paint.
      Choose and about a 2' by 2' area on the surface to begin your process. Usually the worst area is
       your best choice.
      With painter’s tape, tape off any sharp edges and trim to avoid staining trim, build up in cracks
       and crevices and pad damage.
      Select the proper polish and polishing pad based on your surface evaluation to start your
       process.
      Adjust your speed setting according to the “Recommended Speed Setting Guide” below.
      Place the pad on the surface of the paint.
      Turn on the power switch. WARNING! Never lift the polisher off the surface of your paint while
       it is turned on!
      When removing any type of defects apply medium
       pressure while polishing and move in SLOW
       overlapping motions according to the
       “Recommended Paint Polishing Pattern Guide”
       below.
      When the polish is worked in well it will start to turn clear. At this point turn off the machine
       and lift it off the surface of the paint.
      With a clean, quality microfiber towel, buff the remaining product residue off the surface of
       your paint.
      In good lighting, evaluate your work. If it looks like you need to work on the defects a little
       more, add a few more pea size dabs of polish and repeat your process until your evaluation
       revels success. (Keep in mind when using more aggressive products you need to work your way
       down in aggressiveness to achieve your best shine.) Don’t forget, this is a four-step process but
       you may not need all for steps.
      Working in sections that are no larger than 2’ by 2’ to concentrate your work repeat the
       necessary polishing processes over the entire surface of your car until desired results are
       achieved. Remember areas with more serious defects will require more polishing time so be
       patient and allow the polisher to do it's job.
      Using your final wax pad, apply your favorite car wax, paint sealant or paint protectant and
       allow to cure.
      Remove remaining residue with a clean, quality microfiber towel or buff off using your
       microfiber bonnets to reveal a brilliant shine!
      Maintain your shine by quick detailing when lightly dusty and regular washing as needed with a
       quality car wash shampoo, wash mitt and microfiber drying towel.




Proper machine polishing is as easy as following this simple pattern and concentrating your work
in a 2' by 2' section at a time. Master this and you are on your way to a brilliant shine!

Recommended Paint Polishing Pattern




Recommended Speed Setting Guide
      STEP 1- Remove Serious Defects – 5 to 5.5
      STEP 2- Remove Swirl and Minor Defects – 4.5 to 5




      STEP 3- Pre Wax Cleaning and Gloss Enhancement – 4.5
      STEP 4- Protect your paint finish from harsh environmental elements – 2.5




      Product Residue Removal – Microfiber Buffing Bonnet - 3.5 to 4




Note: Not all paint finishes require the entire four-step process. Complete only the steps
necessary for the condition or your paint finish.




STEP 4 - PROTECTING YOUR CAR'S PAINT

First of all let's start with the confusion many have with the difference between waxes,
protectants and sealants. Basically they all fall into the same category and while some do a much
better job than others they all do the same thing and that is to enhance gloss and protect your
finish. When it comes down to a traditional wax like your father or grandfather used vs. a newer
synthetic protectant or sealant the newer technology has won. While the traditional wax does
protect and enhance gloss the newer protectants and sealants do a much better job and last much
longer. What it comes down to is man perfected the wax!



STEP 4- Pinnacle Liquid Souveran Wax – Protect your paint finish from harsh environmental elements

The charcoal Gray Finishing Lake Country CCS Foam Pad is the final step to a flawless finish
and is used to safely apply your car wax, paint sealant or protectant.

Use the Gray Finishing Lake Country CCS Foam Pad for thin, even application of Pinnacle
Liquid Souveran Wax.



DIRECTIONS
Remember to never work in direct sunlight or on a hot surface and make sure your surface is
clean and dry.

      Apply small amount of Pinnacle Liquid Souveran Wax to your Gray Finishing Lake Country CCS
       Foam Pad.




      Set speed setting to 3 and spread Pinnacle Liquid Souveran very thin.
      Using a clean Super Soft Deluxe Microfiber Towel or Bonnets, buff until all residue is removed to
       reveal that show car shine.




      Additional layers can be applied after 1 hour.

STEP 5 - MAINTAINING YOUR CAR'S PAINT

Washing you car often can be very time consuming. For those times when your car is just a little
dusty, Pinnacle Souveran Liquid Spray Wax is the solution!

DIRECTIONS



      For best results, apply to a cool surface and work on a single panel at a time.
      Just a light mist of the Pinnacle Souveran Liquid Spray Wax (hold bottle 12”-15” away from
       surface) and follow by a wipe with the super plush Super Soft Deluxe Microfiber Towel .




Helps Prevent:

      Water spots & streaks
      Environmental paint damage
      Dust build up on paint

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Nanotechnology in Car Paint Care Products

Frequently presented as one of the brightest technologies of the future, interest in
nanotechnology is growing worldwide. There are thousands of possible applications from health
care to car care. This is where the revolutionary car paint care products and new car paint
sealants come in!
So here are the goods: You may want to sit down for this one!

The word “nano” comes from Greek nanos, meaning “dwarf”. It is also an SI (International
System of Units) prefix denoting a factor of 10−9, or 1-Billionth of a meter (a nanometer,
abbreviated nm). To give you a point of relevance, a average human hair is about 80,000 nm in
diameter, which is 20,000 nm shy of 1 millimeter (mm). Seems pretty small, doesn't it?
Well, don't get too impressed by the small size of a nanometer just yet. The simiconductor
world, responsible for our computer and communications technology is already working in
picometer technologies. A picometer is a Trillionth of a meter, or 10−12. Now that's small!

In car paint care, nanotechnology refers to the study, creation and application of molecular
materials, in particular nano-coatings, with a particle size that is typically less than 100
nanometers. The significance of a polymer nano-coating is that is can form a very tight bond
with the undulating surface of most substrates. All substrates used in the automotive arena,
including glass, paint, plastic, rubber, aluminum, chrome, stainless steel, textiles, and leather will
have many pits, fibers, valleys and unevenness when viewed under high magnification. These
undulations allow a nano-coating to get a tight grip on the surface.

There are four reasons that nano-coatings are important in car paint care products (surface care in
general, actually):
   1. The better "grip" a polymer can get on a surface (substrate), the less likely it will be that
      another substance or element can knock it off (break through the coating). This has a
      direct relationship with the coating's durability and tolerance to detergents and
      chemicals.
   2. A nano-coating has a particle size that's smaller than water. As a result, nano-coatings
      are hydrophobic (lock water out).
   3. A nano-coating fills micro-size pits in glossy surfaces, further improving the gloss.
   4. Nano-particle UV inhibitors are perfectly clear, yet they absorb UV light energy.

Autopia-CarCare.com is now carrying one of the industry's most popular synthetic paint
sealant, Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0. It is a sealant composed of German super-
polymers that offers unmatched reflection and protection.

Autopia-CarCare’s featured protective products, including Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant
3.0 and Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant, are premium, high-strength, polymer, nano-
coatings. Each coating is designed to bond properly with the intended substrate. They will
resist water, all forms of detergent, and all but the most extreme acids, alkaline chemicals
and petroleum solvents.

When applied to paint, Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 seals and protects at the nano
level. With each additional coating your paint and glass become smoother and will reflect
light more perfectly. If you’re the enthusiast that prefers to layer your sealants, we
typically suggest 2-3 coats of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 for maximum
performance. This is what creates the extreme shine and unmatched protection!

We invite you to explore the Wolfgang difference for yourself. Who knew that nanotechnology
could be so much fun?! We encourage you to try the world renowned Wolfgang Deep Gloss
Paint Sealant 3.0. It will take your paints appearance to the next level. Oh, and protect it
for months, as well!

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/wolfgang-deep-gloss-paint-sealant.html
HOW TO POLISH A CAR - PAINT POLISHING 101

Paint polishing is one of the most significant topics, and rightfully so. Healthy paint is the
foundation of a good-looking, well-detailed car, so a good paint polisher and quality paint polish
are critical. Detailers struggle with swirl marks and other paint-related problems more than all
other surface issues combined.



BIRD BOMBS

Without a doubt, one of the most dreaded car care problems we face is the bird. Birds in the
air are beautiful to watch fly, but vile to our car's finish. A bird's droppings can quickly cause
damage to your paint.

Bird droppings are very acidic (pH 3.5 to 4.5). When bird droppings fall on your paint, the
acid begins to burn and etch the paint's surface. The longer the bird droppings remain, the
greater the damage.

I've had bird bomb incidents with my black Mazda Speed3 (the seagulls seem to think it's just a
target) that have created damage as deep as 1 to 2 mils. To give you an idea of what that means,
notebook paper is approximately 2 mils of thickness. Your car's paint is only 4 to 6 mils thick.

The result of bird dropping damage is a dimple in the paint's surface, often as large as an inch
or more in diameter. This damage is permanent, but can easily be repaired.
REPAIRING BIRD POOP DAMAGE

The only way to repair the damage caused by bird droppings is to polish the paint. You
must use the paint polish to blend the surrounding paint, bringing it down to the same level as the
damaged area. This may sound drastic, but it works very well. The only concern is that you're
making the paint thinner, so you must be careful not to polish all the way through to the primer.
Do so, and you'll have a more noticeable problem than the one the bird left behind.

Any good paint polish can be used to fix the damage with a fair amount of rubbing. I've found
that it's better to start with a fine polishing compound (a scratch remover formula works well,
too), followed by a good hand polish.



                                                     This diagram shows how the burn from a bird
                                                     dropping looks on the paint surface. In most
                                                     cases the burn won't be very deep, but you
                                                     will see it on the surface of the paint.
                                                     Polishing helps to level the surrounding paint
                                                     so the etch mark no longer shows.




PREVENTING BIRD POOP DAMAGE

While it's not really possible to keep birds from bombing your car with their dirty little surprises,
you can take steps to limit the damage. The most obvious protection is a car cover (please, not
while you're driving!). To limit the damage when you get hit, you need to remove the offending
slime as quickly as possible. Don't wait. Get it off of your car.

I've found the best way to clean up after a bird is with a good detailing spray or waterless wash
product and a microfiber detailing towel. As I'm a clean car fanatic, anyway, I keep a little
detailing kit in the trunk of my car. It holds a spray bottle of quick detailing spray, a couple of
towels, and my favorite rubber and vinyl dressing. That's all it takes for me to keep the car
looking great. When a bird gets me, I spray the bird droppings with a few shots of detailing
spray and wipe it off with the towel, turning the towel as necessary to keep a clean wipe on the
car.

Another way to protect your paint from bird damage is to keep your car waxed or sealed.
When your car is properly protected with a wax or sealant, it makes cleanup much easier.
The surface becomes slick with a protective coating that when caught early enough, the
bird droppings will be a breeze to remove. Just catch it early enough to avoid the potential
problems. While wax offers limited protection against a juicy attack, it makes cleanup much
easier. You still need to remove the mess as quickly as possible.
CLEANING TAR, SAP & BUGS

Summer is tar, sap and bug season. In the summer months, bugs are at full population, trees
produce more sap, and the heat softens the asphalt, producing tar balls on tires. While tar and
tree sap can be difficult to remove, they do not present a threat to your paint's finish. Bug stains,
like bird droppings, are very acidic and represent a significant danger to the beauty of your paint
and trim.



Removing Road Tar

As you drive, your car is bombarded with small specks of asphalt, tire rubber, grease and
oils kicked up by the cars and trucks in front of you. Left on your car's finish, these petroleum-
based contaminants will firmly affix themselves to every exterior surface. Soap-and-water
washing will do little to remove these ugly black spots.

To remove road tar, you need a solvent or strong detergent, like Stoner Tarminator. Most
commercial tar removers contain kerosene, mineral spirits or another petroleum distillate
combined with lubricants to surround and buffer the road tar from your paint. A more modern
solution for tar removal is detailing clay. If the tar is extremely stubborn on your painted
surfaces, you can also use a paint cleaning polish, like Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion.



Removing Tree Sap

Removing tree sap from a car's finish is a bit more difficult than removing tar or bird
droppings. Incorrectly removing hardened sap can scratch your paint. I've found that by hand
rubbing the sap spots with mineral spirits, I'm able to easily remove the sap without damaging
the finish. Mineral spirits acts as a solvent to break up and dissolve the sap.

If there is a large amount of sap on the car, or if the sap has been left on the finish for an
extended period of time, it can be a lot of work to remove. For these cases, I discovered that
going over the affected areas with an abrasive compound, like Meguiar's Ultra Cut Compound
M105, removes the hardened surface of the sap spots.

Then I can hit the sap with the mineral spirits to remove it. The light-duty rubbing compound
softens the sap so the mineral spirits can do its job. The goal is to use the least pressure
possible, to reduce the risk of scratching or marring the paint.

After removing heavy sap, I always buff the treated areas with a good paint polish, like
Meguiar's Ultra Fine Polish M205 to clean up any marks created during hand rubbing with
solvent and bring the paint back to a high gloss. Your paint is now vulnerable from all of that
polishing, The treated area must be re-waxed or sealed. My sealant of choice has always
been Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0. The combination of durability and shine is
nearly flawless.



Removing Insects (Darn those little bugs!)

What's the last thing that goes through a bug's head when it hits your windshield? His rear end,
of course! All joking aside, the head-on collision of that juicy June bug on your car's beautiful
paint and trim is far from one-sided. As the bug's exoskeleton explodes, acidic fluids are firmly
embedded in the surface of your car's paint.

Did you know that shellac is a bug byproduct? Think of it, that beautiful old antique table you
love is covered with dried bug juice (yuck!). Bug splats on your car amount to little more than
shellac mixed with nasty bug parts. Any attempt to remove the calcified remains without the
use of a special cleaning solution could result in scratched paint.

The secret to removing insect remains is to loosen and dissolve them with a solvent that will
cut through the shellac. Stoner Tarminator does a great job for this scenario as well. For bugs
with a little extra grip, agitate the paint with a paint-safe insect sponge.

If you have a particularly large bug mess, I have discovered a trick that seems to work pretty
well. If you use a pre-wax cleaner, such as Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion, apply a small
dab to the offending bug splat. Next, cover the spot with a wadded-up tissue. Let it sit for a few
minutes, then pinch up the mess and give it a soft wipe with the back side of the tissue. Voila!
The bug mess is gone.



                                                Say you’re on the road, and you’re the type to be
                                                really meticulous when it comes to your vehicles
                                                upkeep (Cars are an investment, we don’t blame
                                                you!). You can simply get the Diamondite Bug
                                                Eraser™ Kit. This is the perfect kit to keep in
                                                your car. Diamondite Bug Eraser is a waterless
                                                bug remover that will soften the pesky insect
                                                remains that will make bug removal easy.
                                                Follow that up with the Crystal Gloss Surface
                                                Protectant and create a surface so slick, bugs
                                                won’t stick! The kit also contains soft microfiber
                                                applicators and microfiber applicators to make
                                                this a one stop spot for bug-busting action.
After Removing Tar, Sap & Bugs

All of the chemicals used to remove the aforementioned road stains also remove your wax or
sealants. After removing tar, sap or bugs, plan to spot wax or re-wax your vehicle. If you don't
have time to wax right away, use a quick spray wax like Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant
3.0. This products is great for touch-ups or a quick waxing after the weekly wash.



REMOVING PAINT OXIDATION

Left unprotected and out in the elements, your car's paint will quickly oxidize. You won't
notice the damage over a period of a month or two, but it's there. After a year in the elements
without protection, your paint will be noticeably dull and rough.

Paint oxidation is not the kiss of death. Light oxidation is easily removed through regular paint
cleaning and polishing. Moderate oxidation can also be repaired, but may require a cutting
polish, like Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover. Heavy oxidation, recognizable by a completely
dull, chalky surface, is likely beyond complete restoration. However, even heavily oxidized
paint can be polished to bring back shine if you start with a heavy duty compound like XMT
Heavy Duty Swirl Remover #4 Polishing Compound.

As with any form of paint damage, use the least abrasive polish necessary to get results. Even
moderate paint oxidation causes paint thinning. As you polish, the oxidized (dead) paint is
quickly removed.

One question that frequently appears in my e-mail is, "My car's clearcoat is flaking off. How do
I repair it?" Unfortunately, the only answer is to repaint the damaged body panels. Once a
clearcoat fails due to heavy oxidation, it cannot be restored by polishing. In this regard,
solid body paints are far more resilient.



SUMMARY

Maintaining your car's paint in perfect condition, especially if it's a daily driver, can be quite a
challenge.

Bird bombs are a simple fact of life. Just be aware that, in addition to looking really nasty, they
are very damaging to your car's paint. Take care as soon as possible to remove bird
droppings. If your paint is damaged, use a little polish to restore the surface.
While tar, sap and bugs are not immediately harmful to your paint like bird droppings, if not
removed, they will deteriorate your car's paint finish. When regular washing does not remove
the tar, sap or bugs from your car's paint, use the methods described above. If your paint is
damaged from tar, sap and bugs, use a good polish to restore the finish.

Regular polishing is the best way to remove water spots and swirl marks. Choose a good
polish, good tools, and be patient. To keep spots to a minimum, try using a detailing spray after
you wash. A good detailing spray contains wax or silicone for protection and gloss. The wax
will condition your paint and reduce hard-water-deposit spot formation. To keep swirl marks to
a minimum, make sure you have good wash and dry tools, never wipe, rub or polish in circles
(straight-line motions only), and be very careful with the use of buffers and polishers.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-paint-polish-clinic.html


How To Choose The Right Wax or Paint Sealant for your Vehicle


Choosing the appropriate car wax or paint sealant can be tough. There are hundreds, if not
thousands, of products on the market and they all have their benefits. So what would be the best
wax for your car?

Two basic types of paint protection:

Car Waxes contain some kind of naturally occurring wax, for example carnauba wax or
beeswax.

Paint Sealants are made from synthetic or all man-made ingredients.


Within these categories, there are two sub-categories:

• Cleaner waxes or Cleaner sealants
• Finishing waxes or Finishing sealants

Definitions:

Cleaner Waxes clean, polish and protect in one step. They contain natural protection ingredients
like Carnauba wax. Examples include Mothers Carnauba Cleaner Wax and Collinite Sapphire
Paste Auto Wax.

Cleaner Sealants clean, polish and protect, and they use all synthetic protection ingredients.
XMT 360 Corrects, Cleans, Seals and Klasse All In One are examples of cleaner sealants.

Finishing Waxes offer no cleaning ability with the focus on maximizing beauty with the
protection based upon naturally occurring ingredients. Pinnacle Souverän Carnauba Wax is the
classic example of a finishing wax, sometimes called a show car wax.

Finishing Sealants offer no cleaning ability with the focus on maximizing beauty with the
protection based upon synthetic ingredients. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 and Griot's
Garage Paint Sealant are both finishing sealants.

Hybrids are a combination of both natural and synthetic ingredients, so they don't fit neatly into
the other categories listed. Some hybrids clean and some do not. Wolfgang Fuzion Carnauba-
Polymer Estate Wax is an example of a hybrid without cleaning abilities.


Cleaner Wax or Cleaner Sealant

A cleaner wax contains a blend of chemical cleaners and often times some type of abrasives,
either diminishing or non-diminishing.

Together the chemical cleaners and the abrasives will remove oxidation and road grime from the
paint, which will restore clarity and richness of color. At the same time, they’ll leave behind a
layer of protection to help lock in the shine and protect the paint from the elements.

Many of the products you see at the local auto parts store are cleaner waxes.

When you go to your local auto parts stores, most of the retail waxes on the shelves are cleaner
waxes targeted at casual detailers, not die-hard detailing enthusiasts. These products are geared
toward daily drivers - vehicles that are driven every day and therefore show more wear and tear
than a garage-kept car. Cleaner waxes accomplish polishing and protecting in one step so they
are popular choices for occasional detailers.

A cleaner wax is also what we in the detailing industry call a One-Step product or an AIO. AIO
stands for All-In-One. AIO products will do multiple processes in one step, such as:

   1. Clean the surface
   2. Polish the paint to a high gloss
   3. Leave behind a layer of protection

A cleaner wax is best used on a neglected finish because it will likely have paint contamination
buildup. Cleaner waxes, or all-in-one products, are designed for people who want to polish and
protect the paint in one-step. Their goal is to get a great looking finish without having to invest
the time and effort associated with a multiple-step approach.

A cleaner wax doesn't need to be used, and in most cases shouldn't be used, on a car in which the
paint is in excellent condition; for example a brand new car or an older car in which the paint has
been properly cleaned and polished. Finishes in great condition would be better served using a
finishing wax or finishing sealant.

Another example of a finish that does not need a cleaner wax is a brand new paint job after the
regular 30 days air-cure waiting time. Brand new paint should look great after you pick it up
from the painter but most painters will tell you to wait at least 30 days before sealing the paint
with either a wax or paint sealant.

After the 30 days have passed, a finishing wax should be used, not a cleaner wax. Theoretically
new paint should in excellent condition so you shouldn't have to use any product with cleaners or
abrasives in it. Why mess with perfection?

Application Method

In most cases, a cleaner/wax type product needs to be worked into the surface. Cleaner waxes are
not wipe on, wipe off products. Part of the cleaning action comes from you either working the
product into the paint or you running an electric polisher that works the product into the paint.
The worse condition the paint, the more you'll need to work the product.


Finishing Wax or Finishing Sealant

A finishing wax is much different than a cleaner wax. A finishing wax either doesn’t offer any
cleaning ability at all, or at least not enough to be a usable feature of the product.

A finishing wax is a wax or paint sealant used to add the finishing touch to a car on which the
paint is in excellent condition to start with and/or the paint has been reconditioned through
polishing and paint correction.

If you use a compound or swirl remover to first remove any defects like swirls and scratches, and
then use a polish to restore gloss, the last step should be the application of a finishing wax.
You've already polished. No additional abrasion or cleaning is needed.

The finishing wax or finishing sealant is the icing on the cake.

Application Methods

      Wipe-on, work in and then immediately wipe off with no drying time.
      Wipe on, allow the product to dry and then wipe-off.

Since finishing waxes and paint sealants should really only be applied to a finishes in excellent
condition, there's no need to aggressively work the product over the surface like you would a
cleaner wax. With a finishing wax or sealant you would apply and spread the product out of a
section of a panel and then work the product gently for 2-3 passes over each square inch just to
evenly cover the paint. You would not work the product like you would a cleaner wax with the
idea of trying to remove defects.

Finishing waxes and paint sealants are often wiped on, spread around and then immediately
wiped off. On detailing discussion forums, these types of products are referred to as WOWO
(wipe on, wipe off) products.
Some manufacturers state that their products need to dry before removing. For these types of
products, you would apply and spread the product out to create a thin coating. Then allow the
coating to fully dry before removing with a soft towel or bonnet.

How To Choose The Right Wax or Paint Sealant for your Vehicle

Choose a paint sealant or wax based on the condition of your vehicle's finish and the amount of
time you wish to invest.
Is your car brand new? If so, you will get great results with a finishing wax.

Is your car older and the paint is looking dull? Here's where you have decide how much time to
invest. Do you want to do a multiple step process? This will involve polishing to improve the
paint's gloss and then waxing with a finishing wax.
Or do you simply want to wash and wax the car? Choose a cleaner wax. You'll still get good
results in most cases but with less time and effort.

A cleaner wax will require some elbow grease (or the help of a polisher) to work the cleaners
into the paint.


Cleaner waxes, cleaner sealants, waxes, paint sealants, and hybrids are all good choices. Select a
paint protectant based on your vehicle's condition, your goals, and how much time and effort you
want to invest in the process. No matter which product you choose, what's important is that
you're taking care of your paint

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to-choose-wax-or-sealant.html
ABOUT CAR WAX AND CAR SEALANTS

It was European coach builders that first applied coatings of animal fats and wax to protect the
custom paint on their horse-drawn carriages. This tradition has endured over 100 years and is
still a great way to protect the paint on modern-day coaches.

Today, the multilayered auto wax finish on your car, from the primer through the top clearcoat,
is only .004 to .006 of an inch thick. Regardless of how fine the finish is now, it will deteriorate
and dull. Radiant and ultraviolet energy, acid rain, salt, atmospheric pollution, insect fluids and
bird droppings wage a constant war on your car's finish. Car waxing provides an easily
renewable, transparent barrier between the finish and a hostile environment.

Auto wax also makes your car, new or old, look better. Many quality car waxes combine
enriching oils that "wet" the surface with protective formulas of Brazilian carnauba or modern
polymers for a high-gloss shine.



SELECTING THE BEST CAR WAX

This brings us to the subject of selecting a car wax. Car Waxes can be made from a natural
wax, usually Brazilian carnauba, or synthetically made of polymers and acrylic resins.

Car waxes and paint sealants make the surface of a car reflect more light. As a result, the car
looks vibrant, looks more alive. Carnauba-based car waxes add an element of depth and warmth
to a car. Paint sealants (synthetic car wax) create brilliance and sparkle.
SYNTHETIC CAR WAX CREAMS AND LIQUIDS

Made from modern polymers or acrylic resins, synthetic waxes offer excellent durability and
ease of application. Quality synthetic waxes have been known to last 6 to 9 months or longer,
and typically wipe on and off very easily. Synthetic waxes create a very bright shine and
rarely cloud or streak on the paint.

On the down side, many enthusiasts feel synthetic waxes lack depth and richness. Black cars
can look a little sterile or silvery in the direct sunlight. And, the mirror-like polymers can collect
minor swirls and actually highlight paint flaws.



CLEAR NANOTECHNOLOGY POLYMER COATINGS

In 2007 a brand new type of automotive surface protection was created by Ultima Finish
Care, the clear sealant. Ultima clear sealants are nanotechnology polymer coatings that are
highly resistant to detergents, acids and hard minerals, like calcium.

Don't let the nanotechnology jargon confuse you. The chemical simply creates a full molecular
blanket of protection by using molecules, that are much smaller than water or acid molecules,
that bind together to form what looks like a chain link fence of protection.

Ultima Finish Care is the first and only company to offer a full range of clear sealant products
for complete protection of your automobile.




The animation above is how Ultima explains their nanotechnology coating. The most important
fact to understand is how the product blocks the harmful elements that cause oxidation and
other environmental paint damage. By creating a tough barrier that is many times smaller
than water and acid molecules, these harmful elements cannot penetrate the Ultima coating.



WHAT DO AUTOMOBILE CLEAR COAT FINISHES REALLY NEED?

If the purpose of the clear coat is to add depth and gloss to the final paint finish, wouldn’t it
be counterproductive to apply anything that does not buff out to be as clear as the clear coat
itself?

Carnauba wax in its natural form is not clear. It creates a dull, milky white film on the leaves
of the palm tree from which it is harvested. Have you experienced the white stain residue most
Carnauba waxes leave in cracks and crevices after waxing? It follows that Carnauba wax will
distort the perfectly clear appearance of a new or well-maintained clear coat finish.
What the modern clear coat finish requires is proper cleaning and light polishing to remove
fine cobweb scratches and swirl marks, and clear, durable protection. Carnauba wax cannot meet
this demand. My personal recommendation for all cars with a clear coat finish is Ultima Paint
Guard Plus Paint Sealant.

CAR WAX SUMMARY

Regular auto wax care is necessary for protecting your car's paint from the elements. In
addition to sealing and protecting, car waxes and auto sealants also improve the appearance of
freshly washed and polished paint. If you use the right products, you can successfully layer
waxes and sealants to make your paint look deeper and almost liquid.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-wax.html


How To Apply Paste Waxes by Machine


How To Apply Paste Waxes by Machine

To apply a paste car wax with a dual action polisher, you will need a
gray finishing pad, your paste wax of choice, and a pair of
microfiber gloves. For example, you can use Pinnacle Souverän
Carnauba Wax and the Porter Cable 7424XP Polisher.

Place a clean microfiber glove over one hand. When the wax comes
out of the jar, the glove will prevent contamination of the wax and
also help you grip it so you don't drop it.

To get the wax out of the jar, hold the jar upside down and knock it against your hand until it
slides out.

Using your gloved hand, hold the wax and butter the foam pad with it. Put the wax down on a
plastic bag or some uncontaminated surface until you need to reload the pad.
                                          Work the wax out of the container and hold onto it with
                                          a clean microfiber glove or nitrile glove. Butter the pad
                                          with the wax. Then set the wax onto a plastic bag or
                                          other clean surface until you need to reload the pad.




Use the Porter Cable at a speed of 3 to spread the wax over the car's paint in an overlapping, side
to side motion. You don't need speed to apply wax. Your goal is even, thin coverage.

Once you've covered the desired area, perhaps half of the hood, you'll need to remove it. Use a
soft microfiber towel or bonnet to buff off the wax. Because paste waxes typically need to be
applied and removed one section at a time, you may find it easier to buff with a towel as opposed
to putting on a clean pad and bonnet after every section.

Always fold your towels 4 ways to give you 8 sides to wipe with and to provide cushion to
spread out the pressure of you hand. As a portion of the towel becomes covered in wax, switch to
a clean portion to ensure complete removal of the wax residue.

If you're using Pinnacle Souverän, you'll find that it does not leave a chalky haze like some
waxes. It does not need to fully dry. It is what we call a "wipe on, wipe off" wax or WOWO wax.
Souverän is very easy to remove.

Finally, after you've applied and removed wax from the entire vehicle, you want to go back over
it with a final wipe using a clean microfiber towel. This step will help you spot any residual dust
(not a problem with Souverän!), smears, or places you missed.

Don't forget to put your wax back in the jar and seal it to keep it clean for the next time.

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