Folding Garden Chair

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                                                                    WOOD® magazine

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    Folding Chair                      Who says you can’t make a great concept
                                         even better? Craftsmen have been
                                                           incorporating the
                                                           concept into their
                                                           designs since
                                                           ancient Egyptian
                                                           times, but there
                                                           haven’t been many
                                                           that look better
                                                           than our rendition.

     #DP-00048                                                                         page 1 of 15
            PIVOT DETAIL
            1/4-20 brass                                            EXPLODED VIEW
 A          threaded              1/8
            insert                   x 3/4"
                                  pipe                                          H

        C           7/16"
                    hole                                                                              I
                      1/4- 20 x 11/4"
                      brass R.H.
3/8"   hole           machine screw
5/8"   deep           and flat washer

                     brass flat washer                      A                   1/4"
                pilot hole 1/2" deep
                                                            #10 x 3/4" R.H.                       A
              1/16x    3/4
                       x         513/16"                    brass wood screw
              brass strap                                                              F
              (2 required)


                    3/16" brass
                    flat washer

                                                        1" dowel initially cut 16"
                                                          long. (Finished size is
                                                                     157/8" long.)

                                        1" dowel initially cut 175/8" long.
                                        (Finished size is 171/2" long.)

                                                                                            page 2 of 15
               Bill of Materials                             *Cut part to final size during construction.
                                                             Please read all instructions before cutting.

                        Finished Size

Part                    T     W     L                        Material Key: O–white oak.
A front legs            ‡"    4‹" 36ˇ" O              2
                                                             Supplies: walnut for wedges; 4–‹-20×1‹"-
B rear legs             ‡"    2„" 19›" O              2      long brass roundhead machine screws; 8–‹"
                                                             flat brass washers; 4–‰" flat brass washers;
C seat supports         ‡"    2‰" 15‹" O              2      4–¤×‡"-long brass pipe nipples; 4–‹-20 brass
                                                             threaded inserts; 28–#8×1‹ flathead brass
D*front stretcher        1" dia.        17fi" O        1      wood screws; 4–#10ׇ" roundhead brass wood
                                                             screws; 2–„ׇ×5Å" brass straps; finish.
E* rear stretcher        1" dia.        15Œ" O        1
F seat slats            fi"    1fi" 15Œ" O              7
G front seat slat       fi"    2fi" 15Œ" O              1
H top back slat         fi"    2‡" 17fi" O              1
I back slats            fi"    1fi" 17fi" O              5

  CUTTING DIAGRAM                         I                        G   H

           F                                                                     Also needed: 1 x 36"
                                                                                 White Oak dowel
  1/2   x 71/4 x 72" White Oak
                   C                                                                 B

                    A                                          A
  3/4   x 71/4 x 96" White Oak

            No. 1—A couple of ideas to ease
            installation of threaded inserts: First,
            to get additional leverage on the chuck,
   drill a hole in the end of a ‡×‡" scrapwood
   stick to fit the chuck key handle as shown at
   right. Second, lubricate the threads with soft
   wax. A wax toilet bowl sealing ring is inexpensive
   and works great.

                                                                                             page 3 of 15
Make patterns, then cut the parts
1 Make and assemble photocopies of the                                        MAKING THE STRETCHERS
full-sized patterns of the front leg (A), the                                                         Mark start- and stop-lines on
rear leg (B), and the seat support (C).                         1/2"                                  fence to leave 1" of blank
Adhere the patterns with spray adhesive                                                               square at each end.
to ¤"-thick hardboard.                                      over bit
2 Cut just to the waste side of the pattern                                                                    Second, push blank
lines with a bandsaw, and then sand to the                                                                    along fence, stopping
line. We used a disk sander for the outside
                                                                                                                   cut 1" from end.
curves, and a drum sander for the inside
3 Use the hardboard patterns to mark two
of each part A, B, and C on initially
oversized blanks. Note: We used white oak
                                                        First, hold tip
for the chair because of its strength and               of blank at
resistance to damage from moisture.                     start-line, then
Regardless of the stock you use, select                 pivot against
straight-grained wood for maximum                       fence.
strength. Then, cut the pieces to shape,
using the same cutting and sanding                    into the previously drilled hole to center      1 Prepare initially overlength blanks for
procedures you used to make the patterns.             the chuck. Then, we clamped the front leg       the stretchers from 1×1" stock by
4 Use the procedure in the two-step Using             to the drill-press table. Next, we replaced     crosscutting a 21¤" piece for part D and
the Pattern drawings below to drill „"                the drill bit with a large screwdriver bit,     a 19fi" piece for part E. If you don’t have
reference holes ‹" deep into each blank               and rotated the chuck by hand to drive the      1"-thick stock, laminate two thickness of
at the centerpoint of the holes. Note: The            threaded insert. See Tip No. 1 for additional   fi" stock. Note: You may want to make an
pairs of parts are mirror images of each              suggestions to ease installation of the         additional blank to check later machining
other, not identical. Then, using the                 threaded inserts.                               setups.
information on the patterns and Exploded              6 Sand all parts to final smoothness, and       2 Chuck a fi" round-over bit into your
View for reference, use your drill press to           then set them aside for now.                    table-mounted router, and adjust the fence
drill holes to the marked size and depth.                                                             flush with the bit’s bearing. Then, rout the
5 Install ‹–20 brass threaded inserts in              Make the stretchers next                        square blank into a dowel by using the
the front legs where shown on the pattern.            Note: If you can find 1" dowels to match        procedure in the Making the Stretchers
We used our drill press to make the                   the lumber you chose for your chair, you        drawing above right. Mark start- and stop-
installation easier. First, we chucked a ›"           can skip the dowel-making process               lines on the fence to leave a 1" length of
drill bit into the drill press, and lowered it        described in steps 1 and 2 on page 5.           blank square at each end.

          USING THE PATTERNS: STEP 1                                                   USING THE PATTERNS: STEP 2

                                 Mark inside face of
                                 each piece with
                                 masking tape.

    Blanks for
    rear legs

                                                                                         Turn hardboard
    Drill 1/16" reference                                                                pattern over to drill
    hole through hardboard                                                               holes in mirror-image part.
    pattern and 1/4" deep into leg blanks.

                                                                                                                                page 4 of 15
                                                                 TENON AND
  SCREW-                            #8 x 11/4" F.H.             WEDGE DETAIL
HOLE DETAIL                          brass wood screw
                                                                            1" dowel
                                                                                                               3/4"   hole
                                                11/64"                         13/16"
 3/4" rabbet                                                                                                                 1 /8 "
                           3 /8 "               shank                                                            3/4"
  1/8" deep
                                       3 /8 "   counter-            D                    3/4"
          I                                     sunk
 7/64"pilot                                                     Trim tenon              1/16"                  Make from
                                                                                                               3/4"- wide
 hole 7/8" deep                                                 flush after             saw        A
                                                                assembly.               kerf                    walnut.

                                Space slats 1/4" apart.                                  top edge only
                      #8 x 11/4" F.H.                      I
                      brass wood screw

                1/4- 20 brass
                threaded insert
                                                               1/4" round-                                 I
                3/8" holes                                     overs
                5/8" deep
                                                                     3/4"rabbets 1/8" deep
                                                                     on ends of all slats
                                                                        3/4"   hole

                          D                                                                     1 /8 "   wedge
               1" dowel initially cut 175/8" long.
               (Finished size is 171/2" long.)

                                           FRONT LEG ASSEMBLY

                                                                                                               page 5 of 15
                 CUTTING THE TENON                                                     MARKING THE WEDGE KERF
     Attach 3/4x2x16"
     riser block to                                                             Clamp stretcher so it
     extension.                                                                 does not roll. Mark end
                                                     Clamp stopblock            and edge of tenon.
                                                     to miter-gauge

     Raise tablesaw blade
     1/8" above riser block.

   Clamp miter-gauge
                                                                                             1/2"-thick   block
   bar to table.

This will keep the blank from rolling as             drawing top right. Then, mark the location     Put the curved portion of the legs upward,
you rout.                                            of the kerf on the end and one edge of each    so four points of the assembly touch a flat
3 Sand the stretcher blanks smooth. Then,            tenon. Note: This procedure ensures that       surface like your saw table. Clamp the
cut the front stretcher (D) initially                kerfs on both ends of the stretcher will be    scrapwood spacers between the legs at the
overlength to 17fl" and the rear stretcher            parallel. Then, cut the kerfs down to the      end opposite the stretcher to maintain
(E) initially overlength to 16". Note: This          shoulder of the tenon, using a fine backsaw.   parallel spacing. Note: It is critical that
additional length allows you to cut each             Refer to Tip No. 2 at right for a suggestion   these assemblies are flat and square. Avoid
tenon Å" long, permitting you to sand                on this procedure. Sand the stretchers to      excessive clamping pressure that can twist
„" from each end after assembly. Refer               final smoothness.                              the parts. Align the kerf in the tenon parallel
to the Tenon and Wedge detail                        6 Bandsaw walnut wedges from ‡"-thick          to the angle of the foot in the legs.
accompanying the Front Leg Assembly                  stock as dimensioned in the Tenon and
drawing.                                             Wedge detail accompanying the Front Leg                  No. 2—To make a
4 Attach an extension to your tablesaw’s             Assembly drawing.                                        cut that is straight
miter gauge, then attach a ‡×2×16" riser                                                                      across the end of
block to the extension as shown in the               Now, assemble the                               the tenon and parallel to its
Cutting the Tenon drawing. Clamp the                 legs and stretchers
miter-gauge bar to the tablesaw to secure            1 Dry-assemble (no glue) the front stretcher
                                                                                                     length, start your backsaw in
the assembly. Turn on the saw, and raise             (D) between the two front legs (A), and         a diagonal position as shown
the blade through the riser block until it is        the rear stretcher (E) between the two rear     below. You’ll be able to sight
¤" above the riser block. Clamp a                    legs (B). Refer to the Rear Leg Assembly        both lines at the same time,
stopblock to the miter-gauge extension to            drawing. Clamp lightly to seat the shoulders    keeping your saw right on
cut a tenon Å" long. To cut a test tenon,            of the tenons flush with the legs, then cut     course.
push a length of dowel stock along the               scrapwood spacers equal to the distance
miter-gauge extension into the running               between the legs. (Ours measured 16" for
blade until it contacts the stopblock. Rotate        the front-leg assembly and 14›" for the
the stock clockwise to establish the shoulder        rear-leg assembly.) Note: Double-check
of the tenon, then move the stock back and           the width of the assemblies. For a proper
forth to remove the remainder of the tenon’s         fit, the overall width of the rear-leg
waste. Check the fit of the test tenon in            assembly should be ¤" less than the inside
one of the ‡" holes you drilled in part A            width (between the inner faces of the legs)
or B. Adjust the height of the blade until           of the front-leg assembly. Then, take the
you get a test tenon that fits snugly, then          assemblies apart.
cut the tenons on stretchers D and E.                2 Using weatherproof glue (we used
5 Clamp a stretcher to your workbench as             Franklin Titebond II), clamp the assemblies
shown in the Marking the Wedge Kerf                  back together.
                                                                                                                               page 6 of 15
                     1 /8 "   hole
                     1 /2 "   deep
                                              REAR LEG ASSEMBLY

                              7/16"    hole

                                                   1" dowel initially cut 16" long.
                                                   (Finished size is 157/8" long.)
                                                                                                          3/4"   hole
                                                                                                          1/8 x 3/4 x 3/4"

                                                   3 /4 "   diameter tenon 13/16" long

                                #8 x 11/4" F.H.                                                       F
                                brass wood


   deep on
ends of all slats              G                                                                      F
7/64" pilot                                                                                                             7/16"
7/8" deep                                                                                                               hole
                                                                  3/8"   round-over front edge only

                                   C         Space slats 1/4" apart

                     SEAT ASSEMBLY

                                                                                                                 page 7 of 15
This way, the wedges will be level with the
floor. Glue the wedges, then tap them into                  CUTTING THE SLAT RABBETS
place with a hammer.
3 Unclamp when the assemblies are dry,
and then sand the ends of the tenons flush
with the legs.

Then, make slats
1 Adjust your tablesaw’s rip fence 1fi"
from the inner edge of the blade, and rip
fi"-thick stock for the seat slats (F) and the
back slats (I). It is a good idea to rip a few
extra pieces to set up later machining
2 Rip fi"-thick stock 3" wide to make
initially oversized blanks for the seat slat
(G) and the top back slat (H). Note: You
will shape the arcs on these parts later.                               13/16"
3 Double-check the finished length of the                                       dado set      Seat slat I
slats against the leg assemblies. Then,                                 1/8"   above table
crosscut the seat slats (F, G) and the back
slats (H, I) to length. We used a stopblock           Clamp stopblock to
on an extension to our tablesaw’s miter               miter-gauge extension to
gauge to ensure that the parts were uniform           cut rabbets 3/4" wide.
4 Set up your tablesaw as shown in the
Cutting the Slat Rabbets drawing. Then, cut
rabbets into the ends of each slat.
5 Make photocopies of the patterns of the                      SANDING THE CUTOUTS
front seat slat (G) and the top back slat (H).
Then, attach them to ‹"-thick hardboard.
Bandsaw just to the waste side of the arc,                              Stop-
then sand to the line. A disk sander makes
quick work of smoothing the curves. Mark                                block
the centerpoints of the screw locations by
drilling a „" reference hole through the
pattern and hardboard. Use the patterns to
mark fi"-thick stock for parts G and H, then
cut these pieces to shape. See Tip No. 3 for
a production idea. Using the holes in the
                                                             Cut oversized                   11/2"
patterns as guides, drill reference holes ‹"                                                 sanding
deep into the slats.                                         clearance hole
6 Bandsaw just to the waste side of the                      in 3" wide fence.               drum
cutouts where shown on the pattern of part
H. Then, chuck a 1fi" sanding drum into
your drill press, and position a 3"-wide fence
below the drum, with ‹" of the sanding
drum extending beyond the fence. Mark an
oversized cutout in the fence to provide
clearance for the sanding drum, and bandsaw
it to shape. Then, clamp the fence to the
drill-press table as shown in the Sanding
the Cutouts drawing. Clamp a stopblock to
the fence, and slowly pivot the slat into the
sanding drum to smooth the cutout.
                                                                                                page 8 of 15
Then use either part G or H to mark the               The brass parts are
cutout locations on the back slats.                   easy to shape
Note: The bottom back slat is notched on              1 Make one photocopy of the brass strap
one edge only. All other back slats are               pattern for each strap you will make (two
notched on both edges. Then, cut and sand             per chair). To make the brass easier to
the notches.                                          handle, we attached it with double-faced
7 Chuck a ‹" round-over bit into your                 tape to scrap pieces of ‹"-thick plywood.
table-mounted router, and adjust the fence            Cut the blank to shape, using a bandsaw
flush with the bit’s bearing. Roundover               with a medium to fine blade, or a scrollsaw.             No. 3—Stack-cut
the straight edges, but not the ends, of parts        Use a disk sander to smooth the ends of                  matching parts
F, G, H, and I.                                       the blanks.
8 Chuck a ›" round-over bit into your                 2 Indent the centerpoints of the holes with
                                                                                                               with your bandsaw
table-mounted router, and adjust the fence            a centerpunch or a scratch awl. Chuck a        if you are making a set of
flush with the bit’s bearing. Adhere the              ‰" bit into your drill press, adjust your      chairs. Adhere the blanks with
hardboard patterns to parts G and H with              drill-press fence, and drill the holes. You    double-faced tape, and do
double-faced tape. Then, round over the               can stack the blanks with double-faced         your edge-sanding before
curved edge of these parts.                           tape and drill through two at a time to        separating the parts.
9 Set up a fence and stopblock on your                ensure uniform spacing. See Tip No. 4 for
drill-press table to drill countersunk 11/64"         a suggestion on preventing tarnish.
holes in the slats where marked on the                3 Cut ¤" (nominal size) brass pipe nipple
patterns of parts G and H, and ›" from                to ‡" lengths using your scrollsaw, or
each end of parts F and I, centered in the            hacksaw. We started with 2"-long nipples.
width of each slat where dimensioned in               File the ends square after cutting.
the Screw-Hole detail accompanying the
Front Leg Assembly drawing. Sand all                  You're ready for finish
slats to final smoothness.                            and assembly
                                                      1 Test-assemble the chair by attaching the
Next, attach the slats                                seat assembly to the front-leg assembly                 N o . 4 — U s e
1 Put the front seat slat (G) in position             with the bushings, washers, and screws.                 commercial brass
between the seat supports (C) where shown             Then, attach the rear-leg assembly to the               polish on the
on the Seat Assembly drawing. To keep                 front-leg assembly. Attach the brass straps    straps, then spray them
the assembly square, clamp seat slats to              using washers and screws. Check the fit        with lacquer to prevent
the seat supports. It is extremely important          of all assemblies.                             tarnish. Handle polished
that all chair assemblies are square and              2 Disassemble the chair, and then epoxy
flat. Using the holes in the slats as guides,         the brass pipe-nipple bushings into place.
                                                                                                     brass with gloves or a cloth
drill pilot holes Œ" deep into the seat               Do any finish-sanding required.                before you spray it. You can
supports. Then drive the screws. To prevent           3 Apply a clear finish to all of the           brighten brass screw heads
damage to the relatively soft brass screw,            assemblies. We used four coats of Minwax       and washers before assembly
we first drove a steel screw into the pilot           Fast-Drying Clear Satin Polyurethane,          with the same treatment.
hole, withdrew it, then drove the brass               which is suitable for interior or exterior
screw. Again, you can use soft wax on the             use. We sanded between coats with 320-
screw for lubrication. Apply weatherproof             grit paper, then wiped with a tack cloth to
glue sparingly to the rabbets to avoid                remove the sanding dust.
excessive squeeze-out.                                4 Reassemble the chair, this time using a
2 Insert a ‹"-thick spacer between the                thread-locking compound on the machine
front seat slat and the first seat slat (F).          screw/threaded insert connection We used
Repeat the process you used to assemble               Loctite 242 Threadlocker, available at auto-
the front slat on all of the seat slats.              parts stores. ¿
Continue to check the assembly for square
                                                                                                     The purchase of these plans does not
as you work on it.                                                                                   transfer any copyright or other ownership
3 Glue and screw the top back slat (H) and                                                           interest in the plans, the design, or the
back slats (I) to the front-leg assembly.             Produced by Marlen Kemmet                      finished project to the buyer. Buyer may
                                                      Project Design: James R. Downing               neither reproduce the plans for sale nor
Sand the ends of the slats flush with the             Illustrations: Kim Downing, Carson Ode         offer for sale any copies of the finished
seat supports and front legs.                         Graphic Design: Jamie Downing                  project.
                                                      ©COPYRIGHT MEREDITH CORPORATION 1997

                                                                                                                             page 9 of 15
                                                                                              SEAT SUPPORT

                                                                                               3/4"-thick stock
                                                                                             (Make 2 per chair)

                     To ensure full-sized patterns are correct
                     size, your printer should be set to print
                     at 100% (not fit to page). Measure full-
                     sized patterns to verify size.

                                      fi       1"
                                  ‹       ‡
                                                                                               7/16"   hole
                                                                 1/8"hole 1/2" deep on
                                                                 inside face

     page 10 of 15
                         /4 "

                                                                               R     B
                                                                             /4"- EAR
                                                                          (Ma th LE
                                                                             ke ick s G
                     B                                                           2 p toc
                                                                                    er c k

                                                     on " hole 1
                                                             ide /2" d
                                                                fac eep

     page 11 of 15

                                   3/4"   hole
                                                    FRONT LEG
                                                   3/4"-thick stock
                                                 (Make 2 per chair)

                    3/8"holes 5/8" deep               A
                    on inside face                FRONT LEG

page 12 of 15


                                                                 T LE


                                    5 " de
                                 le /8 ce
                         3 /8" ho e fa
                          on in

                                                   T LE
                                          F    RON

     page 13 of 15


                                                                  FRONT SEAT SLAT
                                                                     fi"-thick stock
                                                                   (Make 1 per chair)
            (Make 2 per chair)
             BRASS STRAP


                                                                              ‡" rabbet ¤"
                                                                              deep on bottom

                                                    ¸" hole,


                                                                                               page 14 of 15
    CENTERLINE                                      CENTERLINE

  1/2"-thick stock
(Make 5 per chair)
                                          TOP BACK SLAT
                                            1/2"-thick stock
                                          (Make 1 per chair)

                 1/4   1/4

                                         Recess is formed
                                         with a 11/2"-diameter
                                         drum sander.

Omit recesses on                   rabbet 1/8"
                                3 /4 "
this edge on one                deep on bottom
slat per chair.


       11/2"                             1 1 /2 "

                                                                 page 15 of 15

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