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The Best of Costa Rica
F or years, Costa Rica was the well-kept secret of a few biologists, backpackers,
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and beachcombers, but that’s all changed. The secret is out. Today the country
is a major international vacation and adventure-travel destination, and tourism
has become the nation’s number-one source of income. Despite the boom in
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vacationers, Costa Rica remains a place rich in natural wonders and biodiversity,
far from the madding crowds. Here you can still find unsullied beaches that
stretch for miles, small lodgings that haven’t attracted hordes of tourists, jungle
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rivers for rafting and kayaking, and spectacular cloud and rainforests with ample
opportunities for bird-watching and hiking. In addition to the country’s trade-
mark eco- and adventure tourism offerings, recent years have seen the opening
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of a handful of large luxury resorts and golf courses, with more on the way.
This is my ninth year putting this book together, and the “best of ” experi-
ences keep on coming. In this chapter, I’ve selected the very best of what this
unique country has to offer. Most of these places and experiences are covered in
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greater detail elsewhere in the book; this chapter is merely meant to give you an
overview of the highlights so you can start planning your own adventure.
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1 The Best of Natural Costa Rica
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• Rincón de la Vieja National in the east): This is a prime place
Park (northeast of Liberia, in for an ecolodge experience. Pro-
Guanacaste): This is an area of tected tropical forests climb from
rugged beauty and high volcanic the Caribbean coastal lowlands up
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activity. The Rincón de la Vieja into the central mountain, afford-
Volcano rises to 1,848m (6,061 ing you a glimpse of a plethora of
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ft.), but the thermal activity is life zones and ecosystems. Braulio
spread out along its flanks, where Carrillo National Park borders
numerous geysers, vents, and several other private reserves here,
fumaroles let off its heat and and there’s a variety of ecolodges
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steam. This is a great place to hire to suit any budget. See “Puerto
a guide and a horse for a day of Viejo de Sarapiquí” in chapter 6.
rugged exploration. There are • Arenal Volcano/Tabacón Hot
waterfalls and mud baths, hot Springs (near La Fortuna, north-
springs, and cool jungle swim- west of San José): When the skies
ming holes. You’ll pass through are clear and the lava is flowing,
pastureland, scrub savanna, and Arenal Volcano provides a thrilling
moist secondary forest; the bird- light show accompanied by an
watching is excellent. See p. 148. earthshaking rumble that defies
• The Río Sarapiquí Region (north description. You can even see the
of San José between Guanacaste in show while soaking in a natural
the west and the Caribbean coast hot spring and having a drink at
4 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F C O S TA R I C A
The Best of Costa Rica
Lake Nicaragua
0 25 mi
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Santa Elena AN
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Ferry Murciélagos NATIONAL E W 35
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P A C I F I C 12 13
O C E A N Cabo Blanco
Absolute
Nature Reserve
11 Isla del Coco
(Coco Island)
THE BEST OF NATURAL COSTA RICA THE BEST ADVENTURES
Arenal Volcano/Tabacón Hot Springs 5 Battling a Billfish off the Pacific Coast 25
Braulio Carrillo National Park 19 Diving off Isla del Coco 11
Manuel Antonio National Park 26 Hiking Mount Chirripó 23
Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve 6 Kayaking Around Golfo Dulce 28
Osa Peninsula & Corcovado National Park 27 Rafting the Upper Reventazón River 17
Rincón de la Vieja National Park 2 Surfing & Four-Wheeling Guanacaste 8
The Río Sarapiquí Region 15 Surfing Pavones 29
Tortuguero Village & Jungle Canals 16 Windsurfing Lake Arenal 4
THE BEST BEACHES THE BEST BIRD-WATCHING W
The Beaches Around Playa Sámara 10 Aviarios del Caribe 21
Malpais 12 Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge 3
Manuel Antonio 26 Carara Biological Reserve 14
Playa Montezuma 13 Cerro de la Muerte 24
Playa Tamarindo 9 La Selva Biological Station 18
Punta Uva & Manzanillo 22 Parque del Este 20
Santa Rosa National Park 1 Río Tempisque Basin 7
Wilson Botanical Gardens 30
T H E B E S T O F N AT U R A L C O S TA R I C A 5
Houston USA
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WILDLIFE SANCTUARY 0 250 mi
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Coronado
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Drake Bay W
Golfo Golfito
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Jiménez 26
29
P A C I F I C
O C E A N
6 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F C O S TA R I C A
the swim-up bar at Tabacón Hot white sand. See “Manuel Antonio
Springs Resort & Spa (& 256- National Park” in chapter 7.
1500; www.tabacon.com). If the • Osa Peninsula (in southern
rushing torrent of volcano-heated Costa Rica): This is Costa Rica’s
spring water isn’t therapeutic most remote and biologically rich
enough, you can get a massage region. Corcovado National
here at an incredibly inexpensive Park, the largest remaining patch
price. See “Arenal Volcano & La of virgin lowland tropical rainfor-
Fortuna” in chapter 6. est in Central America, takes up
• Monteverde Biological Cloud much of the Osa Peninsula.
Forest Reserve (in the mountains Jaguars, crocodiles, and scarlet
northwest of San José): There’s macaws all call this place home.
something both eerie and majestic Whether you stay in a luxury
about walking around in the early nature lodge in Drake Bay or out-
morning mist with the sound of side of Puerto Jiménez, or camp in
bird calls all around and the tow- the park itself, you will be sur-
ering trees hung heavy in broad rounded by some of the most lush
bromeliads, flowering orchids, and most intense jungle this coun-
and hanging moss and vines. The try has to offer. See chapter 8.
reserve itself has a well-maintained • Tortuguero Village & Jungle
network of trails, and the commu- Canals (on the Caribbean coast,
nity is truly involved in conserva- north of Limón): Tortuguero Vil-
tion. Not only that, but in and lage is a small collection of rustic
around Monteverde and Santa wooden shacks on a narrow spit of
Elena, you’ll find a whole slew of land between the Caribbean Sea
related activities and attractions, and a dense maze of jungle canals.
including canopy tours that allow It’s been called Costa Rica’s Venice,
you to swing from treetop to tree- but it actually has more in com-
top while hanging from a skinny mon with the South American
cable. See p. 234. Amazon. You can fly into the
• Manuel Antonio (near Quepos small airstrip, but it’s better to
on the central Pacific coast): take one of the slow boats that ply
There’s a reason this place is so the river and canal route. On the
popular and renowned: monkeys! way you’ll see a wide variety of
The national park here is full of herons and other water birds,
them, even the endangered squir- three types of monkeys, three-toed
rel monkeys. But there’s plenty to sloths, and huge American croco-
see and do outside the park as diles. If you come between June
well. The road leading into and October, you might be treated
Manuel Antonio provides numer- to the awe-inspiring spectacle of a
ous lookouts that consistently green turtle nesting—the small
produce postcard-perfect snap- stretch of Tortuguero beach is the
shots of steep jungle hills meeting last remaining major nesting site
the sea. Uninhabited islands lie of this endangered animal. See
just off the coast, and the beaches “Tortuguero National Park” in
here are perfect crescents of soft, chapter 9.
2 The Best Beaches
With more than 1,200km (750 miles) Caribbean coasts, Costa Rica offers
of shoreline on its Pacific and beachgoers an embarrassment of riches.
THE BEST BEACHES 7
• Santa Rosa National Park: If you tucked down a couple of dirt
really want to get away from it all, roads to the north. See “Playa
the beaches here in the northwest Sámara” in chapter 5.
corner of Costa Rica are a good • Playa Montezuma: This tiny
bet. You’ll have to four-wheel- beach town at the southern tip of
drive or hike 13km (8 miles) from the Nicoya Peninsula has weath-
the central ranger station to reach ered fame and infamy, and yet
the beach. And once you get there, retains a funky sense of indi-
you’ll find only the most basic of viduality. European backpackers,
camping facilities: outhouse vegetarian yoga enthusiasts, and
latrines and cold-water showers. UFO seekers choose Montezuma’s
But you will probably have the beach over any other in Costa
place almost to yourself. In fact, Rica. The waterfalls are what set it
the only time it gets crowded is in apart from the competition, but
October, when thousands of olive the beach stretches for miles, with
Ridley sea turtles nest in one of plenty of isolated spots to plop
their yearly arribadas (arrivals). down your towel or mat. Nearby
See p. 152. are the Cabo Blanco and Curu
• Playa Tamarindo: Although it’s wildlife preserves. See “Playa
on the verge of becoming a little Montezuma” in chapter 5.
too overdeveloped, crowded, and • Malpais: If you’re looking to visit
chaotic, Tamarindo is still hanging Costa Rica’s newest hot spot
on to its place on this list. before the throngs discover it,
Tamarindo has ample lodgings to head out to Malpais. Here you’ll
suit every budget, as well as excel- find miles of nearly deserted
lent restaurants at almost every beaches, great surf, and just a
turn. The beach here is long and smattering of lodges, surf camps,
broad, with sections calm enough and simple cabinas. If Malpais is
for swimmers and others just right too crowded for you, head farther
for surfers. Located about midway on down the road to Santa Teresa,
along the beaches of Guanacaste Playa Hermosa, and Manzanillo.
province, Tamarindo makes a See “Malpais/Santa Teresa” in
good base for exploring other chapter 5.
nearby stretches of sand. There are • Manuel Antonio: The first beach
plenty of surfers here, as well destination to become popular in
as one of the liveliest nightlife Costa Rica, it retains its charms
scenes on this coast. See “Playa despite burgeoning crowds and
Tamarindo & Playa Grande” in mushrooming hotels. The beaches
chapter 5. inside the park are idyllic, and the
• The Beaches Around Playa views from the hills approaching
Sámara: Playa Sámara itself is nice the park are enchanting. This is
enough, but if you venture just one of the few remaining habitats
slightly farther afield, you’ll find for the endangered squirrel mon-
some of the nicest and least devel- key. Rooms with views tend to be
oped beaches along the entire a bit expensive, but many a satis-
Guanacaste coast. Playa Carillo is fied guest will tell you they’re
a long, almost always deserted worth it. See “Manuel Antonio
crescent of palm-backed white National Park” in chapter 7.
sand located just south of Sámara, • Punta Uva & Manzanillo:
while Playa Barrigona and Playa Below Puerto Viejo, the beaches
Buena Vista are two hidden gems of Costa Rica’s eastern coast take
8 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F C O S TA R I C A
on true Caribbean splendor, with the shore, providing shady respite
turquoise waters, coral reefs, and for those who like to spend a full
palm-lined stretches of nearly day on the sand, and the water is
deserted white-sand beach. Punta usually quite calm and good for
Uva and Manzanillo are the swimming. See “Puerto Viejo” in
two most sparkling gems of this chapter 9.
coastline. Tall coconut palms line
3 The Best Adventures
• Mountain-Biking the Back respectable beach and reef breaks,
Roads of Costa Rica: The lack of from Witch’s Rock at Playa
infrastructure and paved roads Naranjo near the Nicaraguan bor-
that most folks bemoan is a huge der to Playa Nosara more than
boon for mountain bikers. There 100km (62 miles) away. In addi-
are endless back roads and cattle tion to these two prime spots, try
paths to explore. Tours of differing a turn at Playa Grande, Punta
lengths and all difficulty levels are Langosta, and playas Negra, Avel-
available. Contact Coast to Coast lanas, and Junquillal. Or, find
Adventures (& 280-8054; www. your own secret spot. Rent a four-
ctocadventures.com). See p. 67. by-four with a roof rack, pile on
• Swinging Through the Treetops the boards, and explore. See chap-
on a Canopy Tour: This unique ter 5.
adventure is becoming quite the • Battling a Billfish off the Pacific
rage. In most cases, after a strenu- Coast: Billfish are plentiful all
ous climb using ascenders, you along Costa Rica’s Pacific coast,
strap on a harness and zip from and boats operate from Playa del
treetop to treetop while dangling Coco to Playa Zancudo. Costa
from a cable. There are canopy Rican anglers hold world records
tours all around Costa Rica. The for both blue marlin and Pacific
Original Canopy Tours (&/fax sailfish. Go to Quepos (just out-
257-5149; www.canopytour.com) side Manuel Antonio) for the best
runs operations in locations après-fish scene, or head down to
around the country. See p. 70. Drake Bay, the Osa Peninsula, or
• Rafting the Upper Reventazón Golfo Dulce, if you want some
River (near Turrialba): The Class isolation. Costa Rica Outdoors
V Guayabo section of this popular (& 800/308-3394 in the U.S., or
river is serious white water. Only 282-6743 in Costa Rica; www.
experienced and gutsy river run- costaricaoutdoors.com) can help
ners need apply. If you’re not quite you find a good charter skipper or
up to that, try a 2-day Pacuare specialized fishing lodge. See chap-
River trip, which passes through ter 5; “Manuel Antonio National
primary and secondary forests and Park” in chapter 7; and chapter 8.
a beautiful steep gorge that, sadly, • Windsurfing Lake Arenal: With
might be dammed soon. Get there steady gale-force winds and stun-
quick! Ríos Tropicales (& 233- ning scenery, the northern end of
6455; www.riostropicales.com) Lake Arenal has become a major
can arrange either of these tours. international windsurfing hot spot.
See p. 76. If you’re an avid boardsailor, be
• Surfing & Four-Wheeling Gua- sure to check in with Norm at
nacaste Province: This north- Rock River Lodge (&/fax 692-
western province has dozens of 1180; www.rockriverlodge.com).
T H E B E S T D AY H I K E S & N AT U R E W A L K S 9
See “Along the Shores of Lake trees and morning frosts. See “San
Arenal” in chapter 6. Isidro de El General: A Base for
• Diving off the Shores of Isla Exploring Chirripó National
del Coco (off the Pacific coast): Park” in chapter 7.
Legendary among treasure seek- • Kayaking Around the Golfo
ers, pirate buffs, and scuba divers, Dulce: Slipping through the
this small island is consistently waters of the Golfo Dulce by
rated one of the 10 best dive sites kayak gets you intimately in touch
in the world. A protected national with the raw beauty of this under-
park, Isla del Coco is surrounded developed region. Spend several
by clear Pacific waters, and its days poking around in mangrove
reefs are teeming with life (divers swamps, fishing in estuaries, and
regularly encounter large schools watching dolphins frolic in the
of hammerhead sharks, curious bay. Escondido Trex (& 735-
manta rays, and docile whale 5210; www.escondidotrex.com)
sharks). Because the island is so provides multiday custom kayak-
remote and has no overnight ing trips out of Puerto Jiménez on
facilities for visitors, the most the Osa Peninsula. See “Puerto
popular way to visit is on 10-day Jiménez: Gateway to Corcovado
excursions on a live-aboard boat, National Park” in chapter 8.
where guests live, eat, and • Surfing Pavones (on the southern
sleep onboard—with nights spent Pacific coast): Just 13km (8 miles)
anchored in the harbor. See from the Panamanian border at
p. 249. the southern reaches of Costa
• Hiking Mount Chirripó (near Rica’s Pacific coast, Pavones is
San Isidro de El General on the reputed to have one of the longest
central Pacific coast): The highest rideable waves in the world. When
mountain in Costa Rica, Mount this left-point break is working,
Chirripó is one of the few places in surfers enjoy rides of almost a
the world where (on a clear day) mile in length. Much more can
you can see both the Caribbean be said about this experience, but
Sea and the Pacific Ocean at the if you’re a surfer, you’ve heard it
same time. Hiking to Chirripó’s all before. Contact Casa Siempre
3,724m (12,215-ft.) summit will Domingo (& 820-4709; www.
take you through a number of dis- casa-domingo.com), the most
tinct bioregions, ranging from comfortable hotel in town, for cur-
lowland pastures and a cloud for- rent wave reports and other local
est to a high-altitude páramo, a information. See “Playa Pavones:
tundralike landscape with stunted A Surfer’s Mecca” in chapter 8.
4 The Best Day Hikes & Nature Walks
• Lankester Gardens: If you want a garden to shady natural forest. See
really pleasant but not overly chal- p. 122.
lenging day hike, consider a walk • Rincón de la Vieja National
among the hundreds of distinct Park: This park has a number of
species of flora on display here. wonderful trails through a variety
Lankester Gardens (& 552-3247) of ecosystems and natural won-
is just 27km (17 miles) from San ders. My favorite hike is down to
José and makes a wonderful day’s the Blue Lake and Cangrejo Falls.
expedition. The trails meander It’s 5.1km (31⁄ 4 miles) each way,
from areas of well-tended open and you’ll want to spend some
10 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F C O S TA R I C A
time at the base of this amazing • Monteverde Biological Cloud
lake; plan on spending at least 5 Forest Reserve: In morning rush
hours on the outing, and bring of high season, when groups and
along lunch and plenty of water. tours line up to enter the reserve,
You can also hike up to two craters you’d think the sign said CROWD
and a crater lake here, and there’s FOREST. Still, the guides here are
the Las Pailas loop for those seek- some of the most professional and
ing a less strenuous hike. This knowledgeable in the country.
remote volcanic national park is Take a tour in the morning to
located about an hour north of familiarize yourself with the forest,
Liberia (it’s only 25km/16 miles, and then spend the late morning
but the road is quite rough), or or afternoon (your entrance ticket
about 5 hours from San José. See is good for the whole day) explor-
p. 148. ing the reserve. Once you get off
• La Selva Biological Station: This the main thoroughfares, Mon-
combination research facility and teverde reveals its rich mysteries
rustic nature lodge has an exten- with stunning regularity. Walk
sive and well-marked network of through the gray mist and look up
trails. You’ll have to reserve in at the dense tangle of epiphytes
advance (& 766-6565) and take and vines. The only noises you’ll
the guided tour if you aren’t a hear are the rustlings of birds or
guest at the lodge. But the hikes monkeys and the occasional dis-
are led by very informed natural- tant rumble of Arenal Volcano.
ists, so you might not mind the The trails are well marked and
company. The Biological Station regularly tended. It’s about 31⁄ 2
is located north-northeast on the hours by bus or car to Monteverde
Caribbean slope of Costa Rica’s from San José. See p. 234.
central mountain range. It’ll take • Corcovado National Park: This
you about 11⁄ 2 hours to drive from large swath of dense lowland rain-
San José via the Guápiles High- forest is home to Costa Rica’s sec-
way. See p. 211. ond-largest population of scarlet
• Arenal National Park & Envi- macaws. The park has a well-
rons: There’s great hiking all designed network of trails, ranger
around this area. The national stations, and camping facilities.
park itself has several excellent Most of the lodges in Drake Bay
trails that visit a variety of differ- and Puerto Jiménez offer day
ent ecosystems, including rainfor- hikes through the park, but if you
est, secondary forest, savanna, really want to experience it, you
and, my favorite, old lava flows. should hike in and stay at one or
Most of them are on the relatively more of the campgrounds. This is
flat flanks of the volcano, so strenuous hiking, and you will
there’s not too much climbing have to pack in some gear and
involved. There’s also great hiking food, but the reward is some of
on the trails at the Arenal Obser- Costa Rica’s most spectacular and
vatory Lodge, and the trail down unspoiled scenery. Because strict
to the base of the La Fortuna limits are placed on the number of
Waterfall is a fun scramble. It’s visitors allowed into the park,
about a 31⁄ 2-hour drive from San you’ll always be far from the
José to La Fortuna and Arenal madding crowd. See “Puerto
National Park. See “Arenal Vol- Jiménez: Gateway to Corcovado
cano & La Fortuna” in chapter 6. National Park” in chapter 8.
T H E B E S T B I R D - WAT C H I N G 11
• Cahuita National Park: The (295 ft.) away, so you can hike out
trails here are flat, well- on the trail and back along the
maintained paths through thick beach, or vice versa. White-faced
lowland forest. Most of the way, and howler monkeys are quite
they parallel the beach, which common here, as are brightly col-
is usually no more than 90m ored land crabs. See p. 333.
5 The Best Bird-Watching
• Observing Oropendula & Blue- Tropical Studies (& 240-6696;
Crowned Motmot at Parque www.ots.ac.cr) or see p. 211.
del Este: A boon for city bird- • Sizing Up a Jabiru Stork at
watchers, this San José park ram- Caño Negro National Wildlife
bles through a collection of lawns, Refuge: Caño Negro Lake and
planted gardens, and harvested the Río Frío that feeds it are
forest, but it also includes second- incredibly rich in wildlife and a
growth scrub and dense woodland. major nesting and gathering site
Oropendula and blue-crowned for aquatic bird species. These
motmot are common species here. massive birds are getting less
Take the San Ramón/Parque del common in Costa Rica, but this is
Este bus from Calle 9 between still one of the best places to see
Avenida Central and Avenida 2. one. Caño Negro Lodge (& 471-
See p. 123. 1426; www.canonegrolodge.com)
• Spotting Hundreds of Marsh sits right on the edge of the refuge
& Stream Birds along the Río and makes a great base for explor-
Tempisque Basin: Hike around ing this region. See p. 219.
the Palo Verde Biological Station, • Catching a Scarlet Macaw in
or take a boat trip down the Flight over Carara Biological
Bebedero River with TAM Tours Reserve: Home to Costa Rica’s
(& 668-1037; www.tamtravel. largest population of scarlet
com) or Safaris Corobici (& 669- macaws, Carara Biological Reserve
6191; www.nicoya.com). This area is a special place for devoted bird-
is an important breeding ground watchers and recent converts.
for gallinules, jacanas, and limp- Macaws are noisy and colorful
kins, as well as a common habitat birds that spend their days in the
for numerous heron and king- park but choose to roost in the
fisher species. Palo Verde is about evenings near the coast. They
a 31⁄ 2-hour drive from San José. arrive like clockwork every morn-
See p. 149. ing and then head for the coastal
• Looking for More Than 300 mangroves around dusk. These
Species of Birds in La Selva Bio- daily migrations give birders a
logical Station: With an excellent great chance to see these magnifi-
trail system through a variety of cent birds in flight. The reserve is
habitats, from dense primary rain- located about 2 hours from San
forest to open pasturelands and José along the central Pacific
cacao plantations, this is one of coast. See p. 255.
the finest places for bird-watching • Looking for a Resplendent
in Costa Rica. With such a variety Quetzal in the Cerro de la
of habitats, the number of species Muerte: Don’t let the name (Hill
spotted runs to well over 300. of Death) scare you away from the
Contact the Organization for opportunity to see this spectacular
12 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F C O S TA R I C A
bird, revered by the ancient Aztecs fabulous for bird-watching. Hum-
and Mayas. Serious bird-watchers mingbirds and tanagers are partic-
won’t want to leave Costa Rica ularly plentiful, but the bounty
without crossing this bird off their doesn’t end there—more than
life lists, and neophytes might be 330 different species of birds
hooked for life after seeing one of have been recorded here. Wilson
these iridescent green wonders fly Gardens is located about an hour
overhead, flashing its brilliant red outside the town of Golfito. See
breast and trailing 2-foot-long tail “Golfito: Gateway to the Golfo
feathers. Trogon Lodge (& 293- Dulce” in chapter 8.
8181; www.grupomawamba.com) • Taking Advantage of the
can almost guarantee a sighting. Caribbean’s Best Birding at
The Cerro de la Muerte is a high Aviarios del Caribe: In just a few
mountain pass located along the short years, Aviarios del Caribe
way to San Isidro de El General (& 750-0775) has established
about 11⁄ 2 hours from San José. itself as the prime bird-watching
See “En Route to San Jose: Three resort on the Caribbean. If it
Places to See Quetzals in the flies along this coast, chances are
Wild” in chapter 7. good that you’ll spot it here;
• Spotting Hundreds of Species at more than 310 species of birds
Wilson Botanical Gardens: With have been spotted so far. Located
more than 7,000 species of tropi- on the Caribbean coast, Aviarios
cal plants and flowers, the well- del Caribe is about a 3-hour drive
tended trails and grounds of this from San José. See p. 331.
beautiful research facility are
6 The Best Destinations for Families
• San José: If you’re spending any exploring all of the city’s sights
time in San José, you’ll probably and attractions. See p. 106.
want to be outside the rough-and- • Playa Hermosa: The protected
tumble downtown area. The best waters of this Pacific beach make
place for all of you to experience it a family favorite. However, just
Costa Rica’s capital city (and still because the waters are calm doesn’t
get a decent night’s sleep) is the mean it’s boring here. Check in at
Meliá Cariari (& 888/956-3542 Aqua Sport (& 672-0050), where
in the U.S. and Canada, or you can rent sea kayaks, sailboards,
239-0022; www.solmelia.com). paddleboats, beach umbrellas, and
With facilities that include several bicycles. See “Playa Hermosa,
large pools, an 18-hole golf Playa Panamá & Papagayo” in
course, 11 tennis courts, and a chapter 5.
game room (not to mention a • Allegro Papagayo Resort (& 248-
babysitting service), there’s some- 2323; www.allegropapagayo.com)
thing here for everyone. If you’re This large all-inclusive resort
traveling with teens, they’ll feel probably has the most extensive
right at home at the new Mall facilities, widest array of tours and
Cariari, which has a multiplex activities, and best-run children’s
theater, an indoor skating rink, program set up in the country so
and, of course, a food court. far. The hotel is located on a very
Located just 15 minutes from calm section of Bahía Culebra,
downtown, it’s well situated for and it even has a separate “Fun
T H E B E S T L U X U RY H OT E L S & R E S O RT S 13
Club” on a beautiful nearby • Playa de Jacó: On the central
white-sand beach. See p. 157. Pacific coast, this is Costa Rica’s
• Playa Tamarindo: This lively surf liveliest and most developed beach
town has a bit of something for town. The streets are lined with
everything. This is a great spot for souvenir shops, ice-cream stands,
teens to learn how to surf or and inexpensive eateries; there’s
boogie-board, and there are a host even a miniature-golf course.
of tours and activities to please the Older kids can rent a surf- or
entire family. Hotel Capitán boogie board, although everyone
Suizo (& 653-0353; www.hotel should be careful with the rough
capitansuizo.com; p. 177) has an surf here. The Club del Mar Con-
excellent location on a calm sec- dominiums & Resort (& /fax
tion of beach, spacious rooms, and 643-3194; www.clubdelmarcosta
a great pool for kids and adults rica.com; p. 256) is situated at the
alike. See “Playa Tamarindo & calm southern end of the beach.
Playa Grande” in chapter 5. The hotel has a large, free-form
• Monteverde: Located about pool and some shady grounds,
160km (99 miles) northwest of and is accommodating to families
San José, this area not only boasts traveling with small children. See
the country’s most famous cloud “Playa de Jacó” in chapter 7.
forest, but it also sports a wide • Manuel Antonio: Manuel Anto-
variety of related attractions and nio has a little bit of everything:
activities. After hiking through miles of gorgeous beaches, tons of
the reserve, you should be able to wildlife (with almost guaranteed
keep most kids happy and occu- monkey sightings), and plenty of
pied riding horses, squirming at active tour options. There’s a load
the local serpentarium, or visiting of lodging options, but Hotel Sí
the butterfly farm and humming- Como No (& 777-0777; www.
bird gallery. More adventurous sicomono.com), with its large
families can take a horseback ride suites, two pools, water slide, and
or one of the local zip-line canopy nightly movies, is probably your
tours. See “Monteverde” in chap- best bet. See “Manuel Antonio
ter 6. National Park” in chapter 7.
7 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts
“Luxury” is a relative term in Costa doing the best job. Maybe that’s
Rica. Several major resorts and a cou- just because it’s the newest, but
ple of fabulous boutique hotels have everything is in great shape, the
done their darndest to meet the needs service is bend-over-backward, the
of upscale travelers. With the recent restaurants are excellent, and there
opening of a Four Seasons resort in are all the facilities and amenities
the northern province of Guanacaste, you could want. See p. 106.
the bar has been raised even further. • Four Seasons Resort Costa Rica
• Marriott Costa Rica Hotel (San (Papagayo Peninsula; & 800/819-
Antonio de Belén, San José 5053 in the U.S., or 696-0098;
area; & 800/228-9290 in the www.fourseasons.com/costarica):
U.S. and Canada, or 298-0844; This is the first major resort to
www.marriott.com): Of all the really address the luxury market in
contenders in the upscale urban Costa Rica. Within its first month
market, the Marriott seems to be of operation, both Madonna and
14 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F C O S TA R I C A
Michael Jordan were notable is breathtaking, spread over a
guests. A beautiful setting, won- lushly planted hillside just steps
derful installations, and stellar off of Playa Santa Teresita. See
service make this the current king p. 203.
of the hill in the upscale market. • Marriott Los Sueños Ocean &
See p. 156. Golf Resort (Playa Herradura;
• Paradisus Playa Conchal (on the & 800/228-9290 in the U.S.,
northern Pacific coast; & 888/ 298-0844 or 630-9000; www.
336-3542 in the U.S., or 654- marriott.com): With large, luxuri-
4123; www.solmelia.com): If ous rooms, an 18-hole golf course,
you’re looking for a large and lux- tons of facilities and amenities,
urious all-inclusive resort with all and a large maze of a pool built to
the trappings, including an 18- resemble the canals of Venice, this
hole Robert Trent Jones golf is one of the finest luxury resorts
course, this place fits the bill. As a in Costa Rica. The only real
bonus, it’s located on one of the downside here is the decidedly
nicest beaches in Costa Rica, the mediocre beach. See p. 258.
seashell-strewn wonder of Playa • Villa Caletas (north of Jacó;
Conchal. See p. 167. & 637-0606; www.hotelvilla
• Hotel Punta Islita (on the Pacific caletas.com): Spread out over a
coast in central Guanacaste; steep hillside, high above the
& 231-6122; www.hotelpunta Pacific Ocean, these individual
islita.com): This is a great getaway. villas have a Mediterranean feel.
Perched on a high, flat bluff over- The Greek Doric amphitheater
looking the Pacific Ocean, Punta follows the same motif. Carved
Islita is popular with honeymoon- into the steep hillside, the theater
ers, and rightly so. The rooms are frequently features evening con-
large and comfortable, the food is certs of jazz or classical music. The
excellent, and the setting is stun- “infinity pool” here was one of
ning. If you venture beyond your the first in Costa Rica and is still
room and the hotel’s inviting the most interesting. Sitting in a
hillside pool, there’s a long, almost lounge chair at the pool’s edge,
always deserted beach for you you’ll swear that it joins the sea
to explore, as well as a wealth of beyond. See p. 259.
activities for the more adventur- • Hotel Sí Como No (Manuel
ous. See p. 192. Antonio; & 777-0777; www.si
• Flor Blanca Resort (Playa Santa comono.com): Although there are
Teresita; & 640-0232; www.flor fancier and more posh places in
blanca.com): The individual villas Costa Rica, the large modern
at this intimate resort are some of suites and villas, spectacular views,
the largest and most luxurious in attentive service, and first-rate
the country. The service and food facilities here earn this small resort
are outstanding, and the location a spot on this list. See p. 272.
8 The Best Moderately Priced Hotels
• Hotel Grano de Oro (San José; the luxurious accommodations
& 255-3322; www.hotelgranode or professional service that can
oro.com): San José boasts dozens be found at the Grano de Oro.
of old homes that have been con- Throughout all the guest rooms,
verted into hotels, but few offer you’ll find attractive hardwood
THE BEST ECOLODGES & WILDERNESS RESORTS 15
furniture, including old-fashioned • El Sano Banano Beach Resort
wardrobes in some rooms. When (Playa Montezuma; & 642-0638;
it comes time to relax, you can www.elbanano.com): Isolated,
soak in a hot tub or have a drink private cabins with outdoor show-
in the rooftop lounge while taking ers set amid lush grounds a stone’s
in the commanding view of San throw from the Pacific Ocean add
José. See p. 101. up to my idea of a tropical para-
• Hotel Le Bergerac (San José; dise. See p. 199.
& 234-7850; www.bergerachotel. • Hotel El Sapo Dorado (Mon-
com): This classy little hotel has teverde; & 645-5010; www.sapo
been pleasing diplomats, digni- dorado.com): Spacious wooden
taries, and other discerning travel- cabins with fireplaces and private
ers for years. Ask for one of the porches are spread across an open
garden rooms, or get the old mas- hillside planted with fruit trees
ter bedroom with its small private and tropical flowers. The hotel has
balcony. See p. 103. an excellent restaurant and is a
• Villa del Sueño Hotel (Playa great place to enjoy some of the
Hermosa; &/fax 672-0026; www. best sunsets in town. See p. 240.
villadelsueno.com): It’s not right • Cariblue Bungalows (Playa
on the beach (you’ll have to walk Cocles; & 750-0035; www.cari
about 90m/295 ft.), but every- blue.com): Try to get one of the
thing else about this place is right private wooden bungalows here. If
on the money, including clean, you do, you might be so happy and
comfortable rooms; a nice refresh- comfortable that you won’t want
ing pool; and an excellent restau- to leave. Just 90m (295 ft.) or so
rant. You can’t do better in Playa away, however, are the warm waves
Hermosa. See p. 159. of the Caribbean Sea. See p. 345.
9 The Best Ecolodges & Wilderness Resorts
The term “ecotourism” is fast becom- place is geared more toward
ing ubiquitous within the travel researchers than tourists, but that
industry, particularly in Costa Rica. (along with the surrounding rain-
Ecolodge options in Costa Rica range forest and extensive trail system) is
from tent camps with no electricity, what makes this one of the best
cold-water showers, and communal ecotourism spots in the country.
buffet-style meals to some of the See p. 211.
most luxurious accommodations in • Arenal Observatory Lodge (near
the country. Generally, outstanding La Fortuna; & 290-7011; www.
ecolodges and wilderness resorts are arenal-observatory.co.cr): Origi-
set apart by an ongoing commitment nally a research facility, this lodge
(financial or otherwise) to minimizing has upgraded quite a bit over the
their effect on surrounding ecosystems years and now features comfort-
and to supporting both conservation able rooms with impressive views
efforts and the residents of local com- of the Arenal Volcano. There are
munities. They should also be able to also excellent trails to nearby lava
provide naturalist guides and plentiful flows and a nice waterfall. Toucans
information. All of the following do. frequent the trees near the lodge,
• La Selva Biological Station and howler monkeys provide the
(south of Puerto Viejo; & 240- wake-up calls. See p. 222.
6696; www.ots.ac.cr): Sure, this
16 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F C O S TA R I C A
• La Paloma Lodge (Drake Bay; operation is run by the very
& 239-2801; www.lapaloma dependable and experienced Costa
lodge.com): If your idea of the Rica Expeditions. See p. 306.
perfect nature lodge is one where • Tortuga Lodge (Tortuguero;
your front porch provides some & 257-0766; www.costarica
prime-time viewing of flora and expeditions.com): The canals of
fauna, this place is for you. If you Tortuguero snake through a maze
decide to leave the comfort of of lowland primary rainforest. The
your porch, the Osa Peninsula’s beaches here are major sea-turtle
lowland rainforests are just outside nesting sites. This is not only the
your door. See p. 297. most comfortable option in the
• Bosque del Cabo Rainforest area, but it’s also another of the
Lodge (Osa Peninsula; &/fax 735- excellent ecolodges run by Costa
5206; www.bosquedelcabo.com): Rica Expeditions. See p. 326.
Large and comfortable private • Selva Bananito Lodge (in the
cabins perched on the edge of a Talamanca Mountains south of
cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean Limón; &/fax 253-8118; www.
and surrounded by lush rainforest selvabananito.com): This is one of
make this one of my favorite spots the few lodges providing direct
in the country. There’s plenty to access to the southern Caribbean
do, and there are always great lowland rainforests. There’s no
guides here. See p. 305. electricity here, but that doesn’t
• Corcovado Lodge Tent Camp mean it’s not plush. Hike along a
(Playa Carate; & 257-0766; www. riverbed, ride horses through the
costaricaexpeditions.com): Located rainforest, climb 30m (100 ft.) up
right on the border of Corcovado a ceiba tree, or rappel down a jun-
National Park, these accommoda- gle waterfall. There’s fabulous
tions are in spacious individual bird-watching here, and the
tents set within walking distance Caribbean beaches are nearby. See
of the crashing surf. The whole p. 331.
10 The Best Bed-and-Breakfasts & Small Inns
• Finca Rosa Blanca Country Inn choice for those who want some-
(Santa Bárbara de Heredia; thing close to the airport but have
& 269-9392; www.fincarosa no need for San José. The separate
blanca.com): If the cookie-cutter cabins are influenced by tradi-
rooms of international resorts tional Japanese architecture, with
leave you cold, then perhaps the lots of polished woodwork and
unique rooms of this unusual inn plenty of light. The gardens are
will be more your style. Square also meticulously tended, and the
corners seem to have been prohib- chef is excellent. There’s a nice tile
ited here in favor of turrets and pool and Jacuzzi that look out
curving walls of glass, arched win- over a deep river canyon. See
dows, and a semicircular built-in p. 108.
couch. It’s set into the lush hill- • Sueño del Mar (Playa Tamarindo;
sides just 20 minutes from San & /fax 653-0284; www.sueno-
José. See p. 105. del-mar.com): You might think
• Vista del Valle Plantation Inn you’re dreaming here. The rooms
(near Grecia; & 450-0800; www. feature African dolls on the win-
vistadelvalle.com): This is a great dowsills, Kokopeli candleholders,
T H E B E S T R E S TA U R A N T S 17
and open-air showers with about chucking it all and setting up
sculpted angelfish, hand-painted shop in a simple house right on the
tiles, and lush tropical plants. The beach, you should come here and
fabrics are from Bali and give it a trial run first. See p. 314.
Guatemala. Somehow all this • Shawandha Lodge (Playa
works well together. Add in the Chiquita; & 750-0018; www.
requisite hammocks under shade shawandhalodge.com): Spacious,
trees right on the beach and a new individual bungalows set amid
small pool, and you really have flowering gardens and thick jun-
something. The breakfasts here are gle make this the most comfort-
earning local renown; yours comes able lodge on the Caribbean
with the price of your room. See coast. Artistic touches abound.
p. 177. See p. 346.
• Arco Iris Lodge (Monteverde; • Cabinas Casa Verde (Puerto
& 645-5067; www.arcoirislodge. Viejo; & 750-0015; www.
com): This small lodge is right in cabinascasaverde.com): This is my
Santa Elena, and it’s by far the best favorite budget lodging along the
deal in the Monteverde area. The Caribbean coast. The rooms are
owners are extremely knowledge- clean and airy, and have comfort-
able and helpful. See p. 241. able beds with mosquito nets. The
• Cabinas Los Cocos (Playa Zan- owner is friendly and is always
cudo; &/fax 776-0012; www.los doing some work in the gardens or
cocos.com): If you’ve ever dreamed around the grounds. See p. 344.
11 The Best Restaurants
• Tin Jo (San José; & 221-7605): cuisine coming out of the kitchen,
In a city with hundreds of Chinese makes this new place one of the top
restaurants, this place stands head restaurants in the city. See p. 110.
and shoulders above the competi- • Camarón Dorado (Playa Brasi-
tion. In addition to an extensive lito; & 654-4028): Simple, fresh
selection of Szechuan and Can- seafood served on plastic lawn
tonese classics, there are Japanese, furniture set in the sand just
Thai, Indian, and Malaysian steps from the crashing waves
dishes on the menu. Tin Jo has the makes this place a wonderful spot.
most adventurous Asian cuisine in The attentive, semiformal service
Costa Rica. See p. 111. makes it even better. See p. 170.
• Grano de Oro Restaurant (San • Lazy Wave Food Company
José; & 255-3322): This elegant (Tamarindo; & 653-0737): Cre-
little hotel has a similarly elegant ative chefs put together an eclectic
restaurant serving delicious Conti- daily offering of what’s fresh and
nental dishes and decadent what strikes their fancy. Open-air
desserts. The open-air seating in seating under an old shade tree,
the lushly planted central court- reasonable prices, and a relaxed
yard is delightful, especially for atmosphere all add up to make
lunch. See p. 114. this my favorite restaurant on the
• Bakea (San José; & 221-1051): Gold Coast. See p. 180.
The elegant and varied decor of • Playa de los Artistas (Mon-
this rambling old colonial home, tezuma; & 642-0920): This place
coupled with the creative fusion is the perfect blend of refined
18 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F C O S TA R I C A
cuisine and beachside funkiness. for from a seafood restaurant in a
There are only a few tables here, popular port town? See p. 277.
so make sure you get here early. • La Pecora Nera (Puerto Viejo;
Fresh grilled seafood is served in & 750-0490): I’m not sure that a
oversize ceramic bowls and on tiny surfer town on the remote
large wooden slabs lined with Caribbean coast deserves such fine
banana leaves. See p. 201. Italian food, but it’s got it. Your
• El Gran Escape (Quepos; & 777- best bet here is to allow yourself to
0395): The prices are right, the be taken on a culinary roller-
portions are generous, and the fish coaster ride with a mixed feast of
is always fresh and expertly pre- the chef ’s nightly specials and sug-
pared. What more could you ask gestions. See p. 349.
12 The Best Views
• The Summit of Irazú Volcano volcano. Unlike on Irazú Volcano
(near San José): On a very clear (see above), when this volcano
day, you can see both the Pacific rumbles and spews, you might
Ocean and the Caribbean Sea have the urge to run for cover.
from this vantage point. Even if Most rooms here have spectacular
visibility is low and this experience views from sheltered private patios
eludes you, you will have a view of or balconies. See p. 221.
the volcano’s spectacular land- • Villa Caletas (Playa Hermosa de
scape, the Meseta Central, and the Jacó; & 637-0606): You’ll have a
Orosi Valley. See “Holy Smoke!: view over the Golfo de Nicoya
Choosing the Volcano Trip That’s and the Pacific Ocean beyond.
Right for You” in chapter 4. Sunsets at the hotel’s outdoor
• El Mirador Ehecatl (& 679- amphitheater are legendary, but
9104): This humble little restau- it’s beautiful here during the day
rant holds a commanding view of as well. See p. 259.
Bahía Salinas. It’s not necessarily • Hotel La Mariposa (Quepos;
worth the drive from San José, & 800/416-2747 or 777-0355;
and the food is basic, at best. But www.lamariposa.com): This place
if you’re anywhere near La Cruz, has arguably the best view in
this is a must stop for sunset. See Manuel Antonio, and that’s saying
“La Cruz” in chapter 5. a lot. Come for breakfast or a sun-
• Iguanazul Hotel (Playa Junqui- set drink because, unfortunately,
llal; & 658-8124; www.iguanazul. I’ve had bad luck with dinner
com): Located on a high bluff here. See p. 271.
above Playa Junquillal, this hotel • The Summit of Mount Chirripó
has a wonderful view of the Pacific (near San Isidro): What more can
and the windswept coastline in one say? At 3,724m (12,215 ft.),
either direction. It gets best around this is the highest spot in Costa
sunset, and better yet if you can Rica. On a clear day, you can see
commandeer one of the ham- both the Pacific Ocean and the
mocks set in a little palapa on the Caribbean Sea from here. Even if
hillside itself. See p. 182. it isn’t clear, you can catch some
• Tabacón Hot Springs Resort pretty amazing views and scenery.
& Spa (near Arenal Volcano; See “San Isidro de El General:
& 256-1500; www.tabacon.com): A Base for Exploring Chirripó
It seems so close, you’ll swear National Park” in chapter 7.
you can reach out and touch the
THE BEST AFTER-DARK FUN 19
13 The Best After-Dark Fun
• Night Tours (countrywide): Most north. If you head straight 500m
Neotropical forest dwellers are (1,640 ft.) east from the church,
nocturnal. Animal and insect calls you’ll come to Jazz Café (& 253-
fill the air, and the rustling on the 8933), which, as its name indi-
ground all around takes on new cates, often features live jazz. See
meanings. Night tours are offered “San José After Dark” in chapter 4.
at most rain- and cloud-forest des- • The Big Bazaar (Tamarindo):
tinations throughout the country. Tamarindo is a rocking surfer
Many use high-powered flash- beach town, and this is the place
lights to catch glimpses of various to be after dark, especially on Sat-
animals. Some even have high- urday nights, when they light a
tech night-vision goggles. Some of big bonfire right on the beach. See
the better spots for night tours are p. 181.
Monteverde, Tortuguero, and • Mar y Sombra (Manuel Antonio;
the Osa Peninsula. Volcano view- & 777-0510): Located on the
ing in Arenal is another not-to- beach a couple of hundred meters
miss nighttime activity. from the national park entrance,
• El Cuartel de la Boca del Monte this is the most happening spot in
(San José; & 221-0327): This is the Manuel Antonio area. There’s
where San José’s young, restless, a large, open-air dance floor and
and beautiful congregate. From plenty of tables set in the sand. If
Wednesday to Saturday, the place the dancing gets too intense, you
is jam-packed. Originally a gay can always cool your feet in the
and bohemian hangout, it is ocean. See “Manuel Antonio
now decidedly mixed and leaning National Park” in chapter 7.
toward yuppie. There’s frequently • San Clemente Bar & Grill
live music here. See p. 132. (Dominical; & 787-0055): This
• San Pedro (San José): This is San is a quintessential surfers’ joint,
José’s university district, and at but whether you hang 10 or not,
night its streets are filled with stu- this is where you’ll want to hang
dents strolling among a variety of out in Dominical at night. The
bars and cafes. If you’d like to join fresh seafood and Tex-Mex spe-
them, keep in mind that La Villa cialties are hearty, tasty, and inex-
(& 281-1571) caters to artists and pensive. And there are pool,
bohemians, Mosaikos (& 280- Ping-Pong, and foosball tables, as
9541) is popular with young Tico well as televised sporting events
rockers, Omar Khayyam (& 253- and surf videos. See “Dominical”
8455) is a great place to grab an in chapter 7.
outdoor table and watch the • Johnny’s Place (Puerto Viejo; no
crowds walk by, and Terra U phone): Picture yourself sipping a
(& 225-7249) is the quintessen- cold beer at a candlelit table set in
tial college bar, attracting a mix of the sand with the Caribbean lap-
local and foreign exchange stu- ping at your feet. Could you ask
dents. All of the spots listed above for more? If so, a few steps away
are located in a 3-block stretch there’s a steamy dance floor that
that begins 200m (656 ft.) east of lets loose to loud reggae. See
the San Pedro Church and heads “Puerto Viejo” in chapter 9.
20 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F C O S TA R I C A
14 The Best Websites About Costa Rica
• The Tico Times (www.ticotimes. online maps. The site is still
net): A selection from the English- expanding and improving, and
language Tico Times makes it easy there’s a tiny bit of a learning
for norteamericanos (and other curve here, but this could become
English speakers) to see what’s a very valuable resource.
happening in Costa Rica. It prints • Costa Rica Living (www.costa
the top story from its weekly print ricaliving.org): This is the official
edition, as well as a daily update of home page of the best newsgroup
news briefs, a business article, dealing with Costa Rica. The
regional news, a fishing column, active newsgroup deals with a
and travel reviews. There’s also a wide range of issues, and its mem-
link to current currency-exchange bership includes many long-time
rates. residents and bona fide experts.
• Latin America Network Infor- There’s plenty of good informa-
mation Center (www.lanic.utexas. tion in the Clipboard and Files
edu/la/ca/cr): Hosted by the Uni- sections.
versity of Texas Latin American • La Nación Digital (www.nacion.
Studies Department, this site com): If you can read Spanish, this
houses a vast collection of diverse is a worthwhile site to browse. The
information about Costa Rica. entire content of the country’s
This is hands-down the best one- paper of record is placed online
stop shop for Web browsing. daily, and there’s also an extensive
There are helpful links to a wide searchable archive. It does main-
range of tourism and general tain a small summary of major
information sites. news items in English, although
• Maptak (www.maptak.com): This this section tends to run about a
is the best site I’ve found for week behind the current events.
