enough to by linxiaoqin


                                                                                        Story Christine Manfield

                                        enough to

                         Just being in Paris is a culinary experience – whether it’s a pit
                      stop for coffee and a croissant, picking up your daily bread, buying
                        the freshest vegetables at outdoor markets or dining out in style
                                               erhaps the most ravishing city in the world, Paris      among the most exciting and seductive in the world, filled with intoxicating
48                                             has become an all-consuming love affair for
                                               more than 30 years. My emotional response was
                                                                                                       aromas, colours and all manner of fresh produce displayed with great
                                                                                                       pride and consummate style. Parisians do not expect to have their produce
                                               immediate. The city’s magical air stole my              bound and gagged beyond recognition in plastic cling wrap and displayed
                                               heart. It was impossible not to be overwhelmed          under fierce artificial lighting. There are food markets, big and small, all
                                               by its beauty, its history and its passion, the songs   over the city. Asparagus and strawberries are in season on my most recent
                                               of Edith Piaf drifting from sidewalk cafes, the         visit and they are everywhere. I admire the locals’ respect for the seasons
                                               very essence of France. Visually beautiful, its         and how the produce is used to infinity during its season when flavours are
                 architecture, planning, trees and gardens are so structurally perfect, its            full, delicious and mouthwatering. Morel mushrooms, tomatoes, cherries,
                 ambience unique, it has that amazing ability to seduce and tantalise all              tiny new potatoes (so luscious when cooked in duck fat) … such offerings
                 the senses. The City of Light is symbolic of romance, food, wine, civilised           almost demand a kitchen. However, all is not lost if you don’t have
                 living, intellectual discussion and hedonistic pleasure. Its style and                cooking facilities in your accommodation. Seasonal produce is reflected
                 sophistication embrace the latest haute couture fashion, culinary trends              in the daily bistro and restaurant menus du jour. Even if you’re hotel
                 and every aspect of contemporary design. Paris is the ultimate city of love,          bound, it’s possible to buy ready-prepared items from markets or
                 its romantic air palpable and enveloping. It demands that you christen                charcuteries and indulge in a private in-house picnic. A crusty baguette
                 your visit with a glass of your favourite champagne.                                  from the boulangerie, some handmade cheese from the fromagerie,
                      Walking along the river or across one of the many bridges (Pont                  saucisson, pate, and celeriac remoulade from the charcuterie, sweet
                 Alexandre III is the best) on sunset is a revelation: majestic buildings are          pastries from the patisserie and some handmade chocolates from any one
                 bathed in golden light, the twilight sky is clear and blue. Who wouldn’t feel         of the artisan chocolatiers provide a complete taste experience. Breakfast
                 a tug at their heartstrings? I could soak up those captivating views forever.         demands you succumb to feathery light, buttery croissants or a pain au
                      Central Paris is defined by its 20 arrondissements (districts). It’s handy       chocolat. The choices are positively sinful, yet utterly compulsory.
                 to carry the pocket-sized, red-covered Plan de Paris with maps of each                     Paris is redefining itself food-wise and stepping up to the mark, with
                 district on a double page, metro and autobus routes at the back. These                challenging, intriguing and funky places spreading like wildfire, and
                 lifesavers can be purchased from any of the newsstands on street corners.             challenging the tried-and-true, upscale (often out of reach) Michelin
                 Each arrondissement has its own distinct character and it’s worth devoting            formula of constrained predictability. Chasing the 3-star dining experience
                 time to each one, exploring hidden corners as you walk and discovering                seems so 20th century sometimes – the world has changed and Paris offers
                 some of the city’s delicious secrets. The Seine cuts across Paris, dividing it        so many more inspiring gastronomic choices. Thankfully, many of my
                 in two - the Right Bank on the north and the Left Bank to the south of the            best memories are beyond the gaze of the Michelin system. If you do feel
                 river. It defines the city, gives it shape and has shaped its history throughout      the desire to splurge at one of the starred restaurants, go for lunch when
                 the ages. The two islands in the middle of the Seine – Ile de la Cite and             it’s possible to get a great deal with set-price menus; you can soak up the
                 Ile Saint Louis – were the centre of religious and political power for                glamorous ambience and style for a fraction of what it costs at dinner.                                      ● Chasing the 3-star
                 centuries. This is where you will find the imposing Notre Dame cathedral              Lunch is a time-honoured tradition and it’s when you will find most                                             dining experience
                 and the Conciergerie – history at your fingertips.                                    Parisians imbibing. The afternoon siesta follows lunch, sensible and                                            seems so 20th century
                                                                                                                                                                                               PhotograPhy corbis

                                                                                                                                                                                                                       sometimes – the world
                      Each time I visit I make a pilgrimage to Ile Saint Louis to eat a cone           entirely appropriate somehow. It gives order to the day.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       has changed and so
                 filled with Berthillon ice cream and sorbet. The glacier’s menu of flavours                It is the little secret spots that locals tell you about, or a chance discovery,                           has Paris
                 includes salted caramel, wild strawberry, blood orange, peach and dark                that are the true gems and so many abound in this fascinating city. Avoid the
                 chocolate; the hardest part is choosing. The food markets of Paris are                tourist traps at all costs. Venture into the neighbourhood backstreets where

wish   October 2009                                                                                                                                                                                                                            October 2009   wish
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  PhotograPhy chrstine manfield, Photo library
                                 modest bistros and small restaurants offer a        energy of the city. His legacy is evident, the       are being set up across the city, a wonderfully     and everything in between. Small boutiques,           spring this year, Hediard were showcasing a new          and making the most of the lovely summer                 Food, glorious food:
                                 wide scope of dining adventures, a feast for the    changes are significant. Paris feels like a          generous gesture of sharing of technology.          sensational food and wine shops, galleries – so       exclusive product, the latest to hit Paris: De           weather and beauty of their city. Every corner           Freshly baked bread
                                 senses that’s easy on the pocket. Art and culture   different city compared with the 1980s and                My favourite places in Paris include:          many things to tempt and tease.                       Jaeger Caviar – la perle d’escargot or snail caviar.     captures another memorable image – this has to           is a daily delight, there
                                 are often rolled into one with some of the city’s   ’90s, it’s more liveable somehow. One of the         Pere Lachaise (in the 20eme or 20th                      On the Right Bank, the high-voltage “look at     These tiny white translucent pearls look too             be the most photogenic and seductive city in the         are flavour sensations
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      to be had in tiny cafes
                                 young chefs taking charge and cooking up a          best ideas is the introduction of bicycles for       arrondissement) and Montparnasse (in the            me” designer labels fight for street prominence.      good to be true, let alone digest, but are perfect       world. The summer twilight hours last beyond
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      as well as multi-starred
                                 storm. Their set price menus mean you               public hire. At many street corners, bike racks      14eme) cemeteries, which are home to some           This is also where you’ll find some of the more       for the stick-thin stylistas who obsess about their      10pm, then the sky starts to change colour to a          Michelin restaurants
                                 experience some thrilling and innovative food       have been installed with a central meter. Insert     of France’s most famous corpses. Visiting           spectacular food emporiums. Wander around             weight. Rose was the flavour of the month and            deep, deep blue and the fingernail of a new              and cooks will delight
                                 at remarkably affordable prices, anything from      a card or cash to pay for the time you use, then     significant people of the past gives an             Place de Madeleine in the 8eme to fantasise in        the shelves were packed with rose wines, rose-           moon emerges, like a perfect painting.                   in providores, such as
                                 €25–€40 ($34–$68) for three courses. Now that’s     dispatch your bike at the nearest rack to your       intriguing insight into the city’s rich history.    front of the opulent Fauchon window displays.         flavoured fruit jellies, rose-petal confiture, perfect        The hardest thing in the world is leaving Paris.    Hediard (pictured above,
                                 a bargain in the 21st century. This has helped      destination. Ingenious and practical, it’s eco-      We have had many a picnic at Pere Lachaise          Across the other side of the square, Hediard is       with a buttery croissant or butter biscuits (sables),    Each time I am filled with an immediate sadness          second from right) and
                                 Paris to reinvent itself, be relevant and put       friendly, has reduced car traffic and given the      over the years, lounging around nonchalantly        one of Paris’ definitive food stores, extraordinary   and rose-scented tea. I bought a jar of violet jelly,    and an overwhelming desire to return. But this           the Grande Epicerie in
                                 itself back in the league as one of the world’s     city even more vitality. If you’re not up for a      on the grass while the likes of Jim Morrison,       in its offerings, matched by hefty prices. Boxes of   suggested as a condiment with roast duck.                time I leave with an extra bag, filled with the violet   Bon Marche department
                                 premier food capitals.                              bike ride to get from A to B, opt for the Metro.     Colette, Gertrude Stein, Modigliani, Oscar          fruit jellies, in Hediard’s distinctive red and           We walk through the Tuileries on our last            jelly and other goodies I couldn’t resist purchasing,
                                      The socially aware and progressive Bertrand    It’s easy to navigate (each line is colour coded),   Wilde and Marcel Proust lie in rest. The            black packaging, look more like bespoke               night. Perfectly designed French gardens                 so at least I can keep the flavours and taste
                                 Delanoe, Paris’ first openly gay city mayor,        cheap and user-friendly and will have you            haunting quietness resonates in such beautiful      jewellery than fleeting and edible treats. During     complete with mazes, people out promenading              memories of Paris alive when I’m back home.
                                 elected to office in 2001, has had a pivotal role   feeling like a local in no time. Buying a carnet     settings. Over at Montparnasse, we challenge
                                 in developing social housing, urban planning,       (pack of 10 tickets) is the way to go.               each other to find Susan Sontag, Brancusi,

                                 more green spaces, cultural innovations and              As we walk, we notice clusters of kids,         Samuel Beckett and Man Ray hidden among
                                 progressive architecture, which melds with the      students and business people sitting in parks        the close set tombs. It’s easy to spot Jean
                                 city’s bones while harmonising with its history.    or in small squares using their laptops. One         Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir, side by
                                 All these initiatives contribute to the dynamic     of our Paris friends tells us that WiFi hotspots     side, just inside the main gate.
                                                                                                                                               The Marais district in the 4eme is the gay
                                                                                                                                          village of Paris, so familiar to those who know

  Fact File                               Merci
                                          111 boulevard Beaumarchais, 3eme
                                          The new zeitgeist store that opened
                                                                                         Gaya Rive Gauche
                                                                                         44 rue du Bac, 7eme (opposite
                                                                                                                                          Sydney’s inner east. The restaurants, cafes,
                                                                                                                                          bars and shops in the few blocks between rue
                                                                                                                                          des Archives, rue Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie
  Sleeping                                in March 09. Captivating; stocks               Pierre Gagnaire’s more casual                    and Vieille du Temple are packed to the
  Montalembert                            many things that can’t be found                seafood restaurant, great flavours.              rafters, particularly on weekends and evenings
  3 rue Montalembert, 7eme                elsewhere. Bespoke collectables.               T: 4544 7373                                     when everyone is out promenading and the
  (just off rue du Bac)                   Pierre Herme                                   Le Bistro Paul Bert                              area has an easy-going village atmosphere.
  Cool contemporary, even better now      72 rue Bonaparte, 6eme                         18 rue Paul Bert, 11eme                               Nearby rue des Rosiers is a long narrow
  there’s a front outdoor terrace for     The most exquisite pastries in Paris.          Terrific bistro; cool local crowd;               street full of kosher food shops, their yellow
  casual dining or a glass of wine.       Herme is considered the most                   sensational flavours.                            stars brandished on the walls above the doors.
  montalembert.com                        renowned pastry chef in France, the            T: 4372 2401                                     The Jewish quarter is just as crowded on
  Hotel Keppler                           Picasso of Pastry. His macarons                Le Comptoir du Relais                            weekends and holidays. The queues for the
  10 rue Kepler, 16eme (off ave           and chocolates are second to none,             9 carrefour de l’Odeon, 6eme                     falafel shop alone snaked around the corner.
  Marceau), near Arc de Triomphe          his flavour combinations sublime.              Timeless elegance, celebrates the                     A couple of blocks further brings you to
  hotelkeppler.fr/en                                                                     essence of seasonality                           Place des Vosges, my favourite square in
  Hotel Bel Ami                           Eating                                         T: 4427 0797                                     Paris, lined with aristocratic red brick and
  7–11 rue Saint Benoit, 6eme             Ze Kitchen Galerie                             Ribouldingue                                     stone townhouses that date back to pre-
  (off Place Saint Germain des Pres)      4 rue des Grands Augustins, 6eme               10 rue Saint Julien le Pauvre, 5eme              Revolutionary times. It is, without doubt, the
  hotel-bel-ami.com                       Chef is William Ledeuil; modern,               Some great offal dishes; brave food.             most alluring and beautifully designed square
  Hotel Bourg Tibourg                     clean, light flavours.                         T: 4633 9880                                     in Paris. It’s a joy to wander through the
  19 rue du Bourg-Tibourg, 4eme           T: 4432 0032                                   Le 21                                            perfectly manicured garden square, stop at
  (opposite Mariage Freres Tea Shop)      Restaurant Aux Lyonnais                        21 rue Mazarine, 6eme                            one of the bistros for a croque monsieur (Paris’                                   s:
  hotelbourgtibourg.com                   32 rue Saint Marc, 2eme                        Small, cool hangout with locals                  signature sandwich) and marvel at the
                                                                                                                                                                                                            ar     cost $___
                                          Classic dishes of the Lyon region.             T: 4633 7690                                     distinctive old architecture and expansive
                                                                                                                                                                                             Ey  ewe                            ___
  Shopping                                Request a downstairs table; the                Il Vino d’Enrico Bernado                         arcade. The large fenced park in the centre
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      lass es $$___
                                                                                                                                                                                              glasssecsription seusng           $___
  Grande Epicerie at Bon Marche           wine list is fab.                              13 blvd de la Tour Maubourg, 7eme                of the square is a favourite spot for locals to

  Rue de Sevres, 7eme                     T: 4296 6504                                   Enrico Bernado trained as chef then              enjoy the sunny outdoors.
  An amazing food hall, a gastronomic     Relais de l’Entrecote                          swapped sides; he won best                            My favourite areas for retail therapy and       pre ken glass s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  e cositgsh,t!
  heaven in this renovated department     Rue Saint Benoit, 6eme (near Cafe              sommelier in the world in 2004. His              aimless wandering are the 6eme and 7eme               bro tact lense n
                                                                                                                                                                                                 con ine solutio
  store. There’s an outdoor cafe on
  the first floor, which makes for a
                                          de Flore, off boulevard St Germain)
                                          The best steak and frites; no-choice
                                                                                         menu is led by wine choices – all by
                                                                                         the glass – and the food is a surprise
                                                                                                                                          arrondissements; from Boulevard Saint
                                                                                                                                          Germain des Pres, along Rue Bonaparte to                sal           s
                                                                                                                                                                                                         on thaeser S
  good pit stop for a Campari Soda
  if you need a break from shopping.
                                          menu; no bookings.
                                          T: 4549 1600
                                                                                         once you choose your wine.
                                                                                         T: 4411 7200
                                                                                                                                          Saint Sulpice, rue du Cherche-Midi to rue de
                                                                                                                                          Sevres, rue du Bac and rue de Varenne                     saveCall L
wish   October 2009

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