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'Olio Nuovo' is Now Being Served

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					Anno 1 numero 20 - Firenze                                                                                                         Thursday 17 November 2005

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   Flooded with                               Fiorentina:                             Italian Politics                          The Turkey
      Memories                                   Never Been                            for Dummies                                 Dazzles
             Florence                             So High in                       “An Irreverent Glance                       Renaissance
     commemorates                             Classifications                          into Government ”                         Florentines
     disastrous flood                                                                                                            by Sabine Eiche
                                                                                         By Bob Nordvall
                           see pg. 5                                 see pg. 7                                see pg. 17                                     see pg. 20




‘Olio Nuovo’ is Now Being Served                                                                                             AFRICAN
                                                                                                                             REFUGEES FIND
   2005 Olive oil is better, scarcer, and more expensive
                                                                                                                             “SOLIDARITY”
                                                                                                                             IN FLORENCE
                                                                                                                             Florentine and American
                                                                                                                             volunteers unite to provide aid
                                                                                                                             to Ethiopians and Eritreans




T                                                                                                                            A
      he first chills of November not     all of the olives pressed in a timely     to watch out for offers that sound              n escape from a war-rav-
      only mark the arrival of win-      fashion.                                  too good to be true. There are many             aged area in Africa has
      ter but also signal olive har-        This year’s oil has been deemed        tricks of the trade, and it is wise to          ended for a group of about
vest time in Tuscany and through-        excellent by organisations like the       always check the provenance of the        30 Ethiopians and Eritreans who
out Italy. Mid-month, “olio nuovo,”      national association Città dell’Olio.     oil before purchase, as well as its       have recently moved into an aban-
or new oil, already lines super-         Oil from the Tuscany area is gen-         colour, odour, and taste, if possible.    doned building in the centre of
markets shelves and graces restau-       erally characterised by its bright           For those who can’t get enough         Florence.
rant tables. Olive oil lovers (which     green colour, strong peppery taste,       of new oil, there are several festivals      The building, now in disuse but
includes most everyone in Italy) are     and slightly fruity aroma. Unfor-         and fairs celebrating what is one of      once the offices of a local politi-
always eager to get that first taste of   tunately for consumers, however,          the most important food crops from        cal party, is located just around
the freshly pressed oil.                 the 2005 harvest is considerably          this region. A nationwide festival        the corner from Piazza del Car-
   In Tuscany, harvesters begin          smaller than it is on average, which      will also be held on November 27,         mine and, just a few weeks ago,
picking olives around the last week      means that olive oil prices will be       during which frantoi will open their      became the home of the group
of October and work well into the        somewhat higher this year. A litre        doors to the public and allow visi-       of refugees, all of whom have
month of November, and some-             of oil direct from the producer           tors to taste the new oil as soon as it   received political asylum visas,
times even through the beginning         should cost between 7 and 9 euros,        is pressed. For more information on       but who were not, however, given
of December. Olive mills, or frantoi,    while shops will sell a litre for about   these events, go to Top Picks, page 9     any sort of lodging to reside in.
are open around the clock to get         10 euros. Experts warn consumers          and Food & Wine page 21.
                                                                                                                                                      see pg. 3
2
Thursday 17 November 2005                                                                                                                             www.theflorentine.net

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                                                                                                       News                                                                                   3
www.theflorentine.net                                                                                                                                              Thursday 17 November 2005


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                                                                                                                                                      Florence NEWS
         www.theflorentine.net
                                                                                                                           continued from pg. 1
   via santa maria 32r - 50125 Firenze
           tel. fax 0552306616
          info@theflorentine.net                                   AFRICAN REFUGEES FIND                                                                Table of CONTENTS
                                                                  “SOLIDARITY” IN FLORENCE
                   editore
                                                                  Florentine and American volunteers unite to provide aid to
                Azimuth s.r.l.
   direzione: via dei Fossi 14c. 59100 Prato
                                                                  Ethiopians and Eritreans                                                                1 FLORENCE NEWS
                                                                                                                                                            ‘Olio Nuovo’ is Now
                                                                                                                                                            Being Served
             direttore responsabile                                   Traditionally viewing each other as enemies, Ethiopians and Eritreans

                                                                                                                                                          3 African Refugees Find
             Fabiana Ceccarelli                                   come from two neighbouring countries continuously on the brink of reignit-
             managing editors                                     ing a territorial war that has never been entirely resolved. The mixed group              “Solidarity” in Florence
                                                                  now residing in Florence banded together after their arrival in Italy, uniting
        Nita Tucker, Linda Falcone
                                                                                                                                                          4 Flooded with Memories
                                                                  efforts in their search for a place to stay. Although they might have arrived
          contributing editors                                    in Florence by chance, their current living situation was determined by cir-
   Marco Badiani, Elia Della Chiesa,                              cumstance.                                                                                Swooning at
  Giovanni Giusti, Antonio Lo Iacono,                                 The concerted effort of local volunteer associations found the group                    David’s Feet
  Carla Rossi, Tova Piha, Tony Tucker                             shelter in the abandoned complex while they wait for better and more suit-
          Vanessa Chanson

            graphics and layout
                                                                  able lodging to be found by city officials.
                                                                      An overwhelming display of support has come from numerous volunteer
                                                                  organisations, mostly those defending housing and immigrants’ rights. A
                                                                                                                                                          5 Tuscan FungusGold
                                                                                                                                                            its Weight in
                                                                                                                                                                          Worth

                                                                  number of Americans from the U.S. Citizens Against the War coalition have                   Hearts Break as The Love
         Leo Cardini - Cathy Gale                                                                                                                             Lockets are Snipped
                                                                  also been vocal and active in gathering necessary supplies for these refu-
                agilelogica.it                                    gees who arrived in Florence with almost no possessions. The newfound
                                                                  Solidarity Network (Rete di Solidarietà), which has now been created to
                                                                                                                                                          6 NATIONAL NEWS
                     printer
                                                                  unite the efforts of these volunteer organisations, has succeeded in finding               Getty Returns Stolen
        La Marina, Calenzano (Fi)
                                                                  accommodation, beds, clothing, and even a gas kitchen for the group.                      Art to Italy
                                                                      The current conditions, however, are far from ideal. There is no running
                 iscrizione al ROC                                water, the occupants must make do with the pay-per-use restrooms at the                     Italy Boycotts
     (reg. degli operatori di comunicazione)                      train station, and the building is in actuality being illegally occupied. Never-            Olympic Torch
            n. 9927 reg. trib. di Prato                           theless, all agree that the situation is better than the alternative: forcing the
             trasmessa il 19/04/05                                group to live on the streets, where the winter cold is closing in and where
                                                                  falling into organised crime rackets is a real risk.
                                                                      This mixed group of Eritreans and Ethiopians, which includes a pregnant
                                                                                                                                                          7 SPORT NEWS Been
                                                                                                                                                            Fiorentina: Never
                                                                                                                                                            So High in Classifications
                                                                  woman and a small child, is now united after a recent escape from two
                                                                  countries that have long been pitted against each other. The two nations’                   Italian Football: Ibrahimovic
                                                                  violent past recently resurfaced at the beginning of November, when over                    signs new Juve contract
                                                                  40 demonstrators were killed during violent protests against current Ethio-
   ���������                                                      pian Prime Minister Meles Zenawi. Several thousand more were arrested
                                                                  for participating in the demonstrations. Prime Minister Zenawi is now threat-
                                                                  ening to charge opposition leaders and news reporters who participated in
                                                                                                                                                          9 TOP PICKS OF EVENTS
                                                                                                                                                            CALENDAR
                                                                                                                                                                       &
                                                                                                                                                            Events Highlights
                                                                  the protests with treason, which can result in a death penalty sentence in
                                                                  Ethiopia. International organisations have called for the immediate release
                                                                  of members of the political opposition who are still being detained.                  14 UP CLOSEwith:
                                                                                                                                                           Interview
                                                                                                                                                                     & PERSONAL
                                                                      Of the refugees who have arrived in Florence, all have regular visas for                Ron Cook
                                                                  humanitarian reasons, and with this type of visa, they should automatically
                                                                  be eligible for residency and housing in Italy.
                                                                      While volunteer groups, and even some members within the city council,
                                                                  claim that city officials have made no move to help find housing for this
                                                                                                                                                        16 CULTUREVOICES:
                                                                                                                                                           ITALIAN
                                                                                                                                                                   & CUSTOMS
                                                                                                                                                           A Window on Language
                                                                  group, city officials and the Prefecture deny these accusations, pointing out                and Customs in Italy
                                                                  that the only lodging that would be available for this group is already filled to

                                                                                                                                                        17 Italian Politics for Dummies
                                                                  capacity with other immigrants in similar situations. Officials also declared
                                                                  to local newspapers that within a short time, some sort of lodging would be
                                                                  found at least for the two families in the group.



                                                                 “THE FLORENTINE” RUNS AT N.Y.C. MARATHON !!!
                                                                                                                                                        18 The Florentine’s Top Ten List
                                                                                                                                                        19 In an Unlikely Occasion,OnA
                                                                                                                                                           Jewish Tradition Lives
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                                                                                                                                                        20 THE Turkey Dazzles
                                                                                                                                                           The
                                                                                                                                                               ARTS
                                                                                                                                                           Renaissance Florentines
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                                                                                                                                                        21 FOOD &Gold
                                                                                                                                                           Liquid
                                                                                                                                                                  WINE
                                                                                                                                                              The Wonders of “Olio Nuovo”
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                                                                                                                                                        23 USEFUL NUMBERS
                                                                                                                                                           CLASSIFIED ADS
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4                                                                                     News
Thursday 17 November 2005                                                                                                                          www.theflorentine.net



    Florence NEWS
     News in BRIEF
    Florence Becomes a “Slow City”
                                                  Flooded with Memories                                                           SWOONING AT
                                                                                                                                  DAVID’S FEET
    At the Slow Fish Festival, Florence
                                                  Florence commemorates disastrous flood
    received the Slow City Award from
    Slow Food. Any slower than that, and                                                                                          The effect of Michelan-
    things would come to a standstill. The                                                                 The Ponte Vecchio
    Cittàslow recognition was eagerly ac-
    cepted by the City of Florence. This
                                                                                                                                  gelo’s masterpiece on
    award signifies that the city is distin-
    guished in its efforts to create a higher                                                                                     tourists to be tested
    quality of life, creating a space in city
    planning for quality, enjoyment, and the
    continuation of aspects of traditional
    lifestyles. Previous winners of the Cit-
    tàslow award include Rome, Paris, and
    Potsdam.
    Tuscan Hospital Swamped
    with Requests for Abortion Pill
    As soon as news was released that
    an experiment using the abortion pill
    RU486 was underway at a hospital
    in the Tuscan town of Pontedera, calls
    requesting information about the pill,
    as well as requests for the pill itself,
    have been coming in from all over the
    country. Although RU486 is not avail-
    able in Italy, local health officials at the
    hospital had begun an experiment to
                                                  N    ovember 4, 1966 marks one
                                                       of the most dramatic days in
                                                  Florence’s history. On that date,
                                                                                          stration through memory of the
                                                                                          tragic event that affected so many.
                                                                                          City Councillor Susanna Agostini
    see whether it was possible to have           the overflowing waters of the River      explained that the memory of this
    the drug shipped from France within
    the restricted timeframe necessary
                                                  Arno inundated just about every         event must be kept alive because
    for the pill to be effective. One of the      corner of the city centre, causing      it is also an example of the great
    two women who were trial candidates           a devastating amount of damage.         solidarity and courage of this
    for the pill was able to receive the pill     Plaques throughout the centre com-      city’s citizens, as well as that of a
    in time. The experiment has not been          memorate the record water heights       global community that rushed to
    conducted without criticism. Health           of the flood, which, in some places,     Florence’s aid. In the wake of the
    Minister Francesco Storace noted that
    these experiments go contrary to the
                                                  reached up to the second story of       disaster, people from all corners of
    spirit of the law whose objective, he         buildings                               the globe arrived in Florence to aid
    claims, is to prevent abortion.                  This November 4, commemora-          in salvaging the countless artworks
    Solemn Veteran’s Day Ceremony
                                                  tive ceremonies were held through-      and monuments that had been left
    at American Cemetery                          out the city, at which local officials   under piles of mud and silt once the
                                                  announced that an initiative has now    waters had receded. These heroes
                                                                                                                                  T
    The American Cemetery of Florence
    was packed on November 11 for a               begun to collect any and all material   would be justly nominated “Mud              he emotional effects of
    Veteran’s Day memorial service com-           that is testimony to the great flood.    Angels,” as they slowly began to            Michelangelo’s statue of
    memorating U.S. soldiers that died            Gathered artefacts will be used to      unearth treasures that had already      David are to be tested in a year-
    during World War II. U.S. Ambassador
    to Italy Ronald P. Spogli was present
                                                  create a collective exhibition to be    been deemed unsalvageable.              long study at the Accademia in
    for the ceremony. In the presence of          presented next year on the occasion         Items for this exhibition can be    Florence. A Florentine psychia-
    more than 4,500 graves, Spogli read           of the 40th anniversary of the flood.    left at all neighbourhood head-         trist, Graziella Margherini, will
    a brief note from U.S. President Bush            More than an exhibition, the         quarters up until June 2006.            be testing her theory that the
    lauding the sacrifice made by Ameri-           final collection will be a demon-                                                statue elicits a strong emotional
    can soldiers, past and present.
                                                                                                                                  reaction for many of its viewers,
                                                    “Kidnapping” Case Clouded
    Security Blitz in City Centre
    State and local police hit San Lorenzo                                                                                        a reaction that she has dubbed
    and other central piazzas in force on                                                                                         ‘The David Syndrome’.

                                                    by Confusion and Controversy                                                      According to the psychia-
    the night of November 10 as part of
    the new security measures for the
    city centre. Six people were arrested
                                                                                                                                  trist, the effect seems to be
    and 18 were stopped for identifica-                                                                                            similar to that of the ‘Stendhal
    tion, several of whom were taken into           Gypsy woman released due to conflicting                                        Syndrome’, a term that Mar-
    holding to await expulsion due to their                                                                                       gherini originally coined in the
    inability to produce valid visas upon           testimonies and lack of evidence                                              1970s, and which is now a
    request. The blitz primarily resulted in



                                                       W
    the search and detention of foreign in-                     hat initially seemed      of an attempted kidnapping. In          commonly acknowledged psy-
    habitants and the confiscation of con-                       to be a terrifying tale   the meantime, one of the Rom            chosomatic illness that usually
    traband material.                                           of two Rom women          women was identified, cap-               affects museum-goers.
    Prisoners Take to the Catwalk                   attempting to kidnap a child in       tured, and arrested. She was                The Stendhal Syndrome is
    Six detainees at the Don Bosco Prison           the middle of Florence’s historic     released a few days later due to        characterised by a sense of
    in Pisa held a fashion show on Novem-           centre, has now turned into a         the lack of substantial evidence.
    ber 7 to present the new line “Bello                                                                                          dizziness and a general feeling
                                                    confusing case of conflicting tes-     Another witness reported that
    Dentro”(Beautiful Inside), which was
                                                    timonies.                             the two women in question did           of disorientation and confusion
    designed, sewn, and modelled entirely
    by the female prisoners.                           On October 25, a couple with       not appear to be kidnapping the         upon viewing beautiful artwork,
                                                    their small child were visiting       baby at all.                            and it is a common cause for
    Ducks Caught Salmonella not
    Bird Flu                                        Florence, and, at a certain point,       While the release of the             trips to local hospitals made by
    Just a day after the first case of Bird Flu      the mother approached two local       accused woman was met in part           tourists visiting Florence.
    was verified in Italy in the northern city       traffic police in Via Calzaiuoli to    with satisfaction from some                 The malady was named after
    of Padua, several ducks were discov-            make a report. From this moment       groups that believed the treat-         the 19th century French author
    ered dead in the town of Pontassieve,           on, entirely conflicting accounts      ment of the accused and the
    just outside of Florence. Although                                                                                            Stendhal who wrote a detailed
                                                    have surfaced.                        media coverage of the event             description of the effect that the
    laboratory results now show that these
                                                       The local police at the scene      (including that of the Floren-
    birds were infected with Salmonella,                                                                                          art had on him during a visit to
    not the Bird Flu virus, city health of-         claim that the woman initially        tine) was incorrect, inaccurate
    ficials were quick to respond with               reported an attempted theft of        and even racist, it also caused         Florence in 1817. The descrip-
    preventative measures. The city now             a bracelet from her child’s arm,      outcry from higher-level officials       tion was published in his book
    prohibits the feeding of wild fowl, and         while a secondary report made by      in the Ministry of Justice against      “Naples and Florence: A Jour-
    warnings have been issued to avoid di-
                                                    the mother to regular police offi-     the judgement of local Floren-          ney from Milan to Reggio”.
    rect contact with water animals.
                                                    cers offers a conflicting account      tine magistrates.
                                                                                              News                                                                                                5
www.theflorentine.net                                                                                                                                                       Thursday 17 November 2005



                                                                                                                                                   Florence NEWS
Where Sport Looks Like Life
                                                                                                                                                         and an atmosphere where friends,
                                                                                                                                                         family, and feeling good all crowd
                                                                                                                                                         centre stage. The mood is inter-
                                                                                                                                                         national and the staff speaks Eng-
Britain’s VirginActive Takes Root in Tuscany                                                                                                             lish. Rumour has it that Branson’s
                                                                                                                                                         gym knows nothing of the “sweat


S
       ir Richard Branson, eclectic patron of the                the “town” is equipped with                                                             and tears” scenario usually associ-
       British multinational Virgin, famous for                  in-door and out-door swim-                                                              ated with keeping physically fit.
       his daring adventures, (including travelling              ming pools, tennis courts,                                                              And while sprucing up sports with
around the globe in a hot air balloon) will be vis-              football fields, spas and the latest generation of fit-                  music television, social opportunities and relaxa-
iting Florence to celebrate Virgin Unite, his char-              ness equipment. The Florentine location, the sixth                     tion may be a novel idea, the Florentines have
ity foundation, in an event hosting special guests               one in Italy, is the largest of the 100 gyms owned                     been quick to adopt it. 5000 thousand people par-
Natalie Imbruglia and Lee Ryan. But Branson has                  by the English multinational in Great Britain,                         ticipated in the inauguration, and pre-registration
still another reason to visit our city, namely his 15            South Africa and Spain.                                                reached record numbers with 3500 Florentines
million Euro Florentine investment: the new Vir-                    Its philosophy, imported from the UK, is                            having already purchased their annual member-
ginactive gym. To simply call it a gym, of course, is            unique for Italy. For Virginactive, the focus is on                    ship. As a familiar sign of solidarity Branson’s
not entirely accurate. More fitting would be “well-               families. There’s something for everyone. Fitness                      Florentine village has already established agree-
ness village” considering the sheer size of the new              junkies take to the gym with their families in tow                     ments with the local city government which will
complex (18,000 square meters both indoors and                   (mum, dad, kids and even grandparents). Expect                         enable schools and disabled citizens to use the
out). Located in Rovezzano, just south of Florence               activities and courses appropriate for all ages,                       facilities free of charge.
                                                                                                                                                                          By Marco Badiani



Tuscan Fungus Worth                                                                                   HEARTS BREAK AS THE LOVE
its Weight in Gold                                                                                    LOCKETS ARE SNIPPED
                                                                                                      City campaigns to end romantic tradition that is
Truffle season has begun with the usual high prices                                                    damaging Ponte Vecchio statue
                                         tional Tuscan Truffle Auction comes

                                                                                                       T
                                         at no small cost. The auction, held as                            he City of Florence has
                                         a benefit for charity each year, usu-                              now declared war on the                                              Max Biaggi
                                         ally raises hundreds of thousands of                          locks that continue to be
                                         euros as the rich and famous vie for                          attached by the dozen to the
                                         a piece of the divine fungus.                                 metal fence around the statue
                                            On a regional and national level,                          of Cellini on the Ponte Vecchio.
                                         the truffle industry is a prosperous                           In an attempt to stop the trend,
                                         one in Italy, with truffle sales rack-                         the locks will now be removed


A
        t the price of about 1000 ing up about 400 million euros per                                   more frequently. Even the city
        euros per kilo, truffles, or tar- year. Each year, however, the num-                            councillor for culture, Simone
        tufi, are by far the most valu- ber of truffles harvested continues                              Siliani, appeared recently
able food product that the wild hills to decline.                                                      with large snippers to remove
of Tuscany have to offer. And now is        Traditional festivals in the towns                         several of the locks.                                In fact, just a few months ago,
the time of year when truffle hunt- of San Miniato and San Giovanni                                         The locks started to appear                  the City sent a formal complaint
ers scour the woodlands for these d’Asso will be held again this year                                  recently in a new trend that has                 to federal officials about the
natural treasures.                       to celebrate this natural bounty. A                           become popular amongst young                     damage to the artwork, requesting
   Due to late and plentiful rains, truffle museum has also been inau-                                  couples visiting the area. The new               police surveillance to deter young
these small mushrooms are some- gurated in San Giovanni d’Asso.                                        tradition calls for a couple to attach           lovers from attaching locks and
what behind in ripening this year,          If the investment is made, and a                           their lock to the fence surrounding              disrespecting the statue. In
but experts agree that they should truffle is acquired, it is important to                              the statue and then throw the key                response to the complaint, the
be at their prime by mid-November. remember that there is also a strict                                into the Arno below, thus sealing                City was encouraged to put up a
   This region is home to both the ritual to be followed when eating                                   their love forever.                              sign prohibiting the attachment of
black (Tuber Melanosporum) and truffles. They must first be properly                                         The City of Florence does not                locks to the statue.
white (Tuber Magnatum) varieties cleaned with a knife or appropri-                                     approve of the ritual, which has                     Four signs are set to be installed
of truffle. Although the white truffle ate brush, they must be eaten raw,                                become destructive to the statue,                on the bridge, with hopes that this
from the northern area around Alba never frozen nor left for long in                                   an important historical memorial to              new lovers’ tradition will be nipped
may be the most well known, a bid the refrigerator, and they cannot be
 GIA_AD_Florentine_GG_2 15-11-2005 9:06 Pagina 1                                                       Benvenuto Cellini.                               in the bud.
for a white truffle at the Interna- transported over great distances.

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6                                                                                    News
Thursday 17 November 2005                                                                                                                            www.theflorentine.net



 National NEWS
     News in BRIEF                             Getty Returns Stolen                                                                ITALY BOYCOTTS
    CIA Photo Further Evidence
    of U.S. Involvement in Imam’s
    Abduction
    Italian investigators recently found
                                               Art to Italy                                                                        OLYMPIC TORCH
                                                                                                                                   Municipalities in Rome
    a photo of the Imam mysteriously
    kidnapped in Milan on CIA Milan
                                               American museum sends three                                                         protest Coca-Cola
    Chief’s computer. The discovery
    adds to the compelling evidence that       antique objects back to rightful owners                                             sponsoring of flame
    has already provoked request for ex-
    tradition of 22 American agents for                        P. Getty Museum, L.A.
    questioning in Italy. The photograph                                                 she brought them back to the U.S.
    is dated January 14, 2003 and de-
    picts Imam Abu Omar in front of a
                                                                                         museum regardless. An American
    medical centre, precisely the loca-                                                  art dealer, Robert Hecht, is also
    tion from where he was mysteriously                                                  faced with similar charges and will
    kidnapped February 17.                                                               be tried alongside True on Novem-
    Although Italian security officers                                                    ber 19. This is the first time a U.S.
    were investigating the Imam’s po-                                                    antiquities curator has faced charges
    tential involvement in terrorist activi-
    ties, it appears that American CIA
                                                                                         of this type in Italy. The charges are
    agents, without any communication                                                    part of a concerted effort by Italian
    to Italian agents, decided to abduct                                                 authorities to combat the plunder-
    Abu Omar, smuggle him out of the                                                     ing of the country’s valuable art and


                                               S
    country, and take him to a prison                atisfied Italian Cultural Minis-     artefacts.
    in Cairo for interrogation. No news              ter Rocco Buttiglione reported         In the meantime, Giacomo Medici,
    of the Imam was heard for several
    months until his family received a
                                                     on November 11 that three           a convicted Roman antiquities traf-
    call from him, and he stated he had        artefacts from an important Ameri-        ficker, is appealing his 10-year sen-
    been tortured. He is still being held      can museum have now been returned         tence for receiving and exporting
    in the Cairo prison. U.S. agents           to their true owners. Buttiglione also    stolen artefacts related to this case.
    could face serious charges from            noted that another two items may             The returned items were unveiled
    Italian courts, for having violated        soon be on their way home as well.        during Buttiglione’s announcement
    the sovereignty of a nation. Ameri-
                                                  The J. Paul Getty Museum in Los        of their return, and the event was
    can officials have not offered any
    comments on the case.                      Angeles has returned an ancient
                                               bowl, candelabra, and funeral
                                                                                         also attended by Ugo Zotin, head
                                                                                         of the Italian police’s art theft divi-
                                                                                                                                   T    he Olympic torch run to Turin
                                                                                                                                        may no longer be a run but a
                                                                                                                                   hurdle due to heated opposition
    National Strike November 25                inscription after a dispute over the      sion, and by U.S. customs represen-
    In response to the new finance                                                                                                  that has arisen against Coca-
    laws, a national strike has been
                                               legality of the objects’ departure        tatives.                                  Cola’s sponsorship of the event.
    planned for four hours on Novem-           from Italy. The items are among 42           The bronze candelabra is of                Several local city officials
    ber 25. Public transportation unions       objects that Italy claims were ille-      Etruscan origin, and the funeral          announced that they would not
    have already arranged their strike         gally dug up without any permits and      stone was carved in the sixth century     allow the torch to pass through
    schedule, with trains stopping from        then smuggled out of the country.         BCE. They were both unearthed at
    9am to 1pm, air traffic from noon to                                                                                            the neighbourhoods they rep-
                                                  The Getty Museum’s antiques            the site of an ancient Greek settle-      resented if Coca-Cola was the
    4pm, and buses during the last four
    hours of service.
                                               curator, Marion True, now stands          ment in Sicily. The bowl, dating          sponsor.
                                               charged by Italian courts with the        back to 340 BCE, was dug up in the            According to protestors, the
    Infamous “Adopted”                         handling and receiving of stolen          Campania region and is a work of
    Grandfather Dies                                                                                                               Coca-Cola Company should not
                                               artefacts. They claim she was aware       Asteas, a painter from the ancient        be allowed to represent an event
    Giorgio Angelozzi, the 80 year
    old who had made a plea in a lo-           the items were looted, but that           southern Italian city of Paestum.         that symbolises peace and unity
    cal newspaper to be adopted as a                                                                                               after the brutal treatment of union
    grandfather by a family, but ultimate-
    ly turning out to be a swindler, has
    died. Last year, the elderly former
                                                 Sardinia in Uproar Over Rumours of                                                workers in plants in Columbia
                                                                                                                                   was revealed.
    schoolteacher captured the hearts
    of a nation when he published an
                                                 U.S. Base Expansion                                                                   The Olympics organising com-
                                                                                                                                   mittee, however, insisted that it
    ad in a local newspaper request-             Growth plans for naval base near Italian resort island sparks controversy         would absolutely not change the
    ing to be adopted as a grandfather                                                                                             course of the torchbearer, and
    because he was alone in the world.
    Angelozzi was invited by the Riva
    family to stay with them, but after
                                                T   he American military base, or more precisely, the U.S. Naval Support
                                                    Activity (NSA) La Maddalena, is a base located just off the waters of the
                                                vacation paradise island Sardinia, and it has become the centre of a contro-
                                                                                                                                   that some sort of other compro-
                                                                                                                                   mise would have to be worked
    a short time with them, he began                                                                                               out.
                                                versy that has now caught the attention of European officials.
    to steal cheques, accumulate a se-             Various sources seem to confirm that what had originally appeared to be              On November 8, Rome’s
    ries of debts, and carry out several
                                                a small renewal project at the base has now exceeded all limits of expansion,      mayor, Walter Veltroni, stepped
    other small scams before suddenly                                                                                              in to quell the situation and
    disappearing, leaving his adoptive          causing concern amongst Sardinians, as well as with the European Commis-
                                                sion, that the base is overstepping its boundaries.                                met with representatives of
    family in debt and disbelief. The
    80-year old, who was later found               The EU Commission recently sent a notification of violation of Article           the Coca-Cola Company. They
    in a rest home in Vicenza died last         10 of the EU Treatise to the Italian government for not having responded           agreed to allow an inspection of
    week. The Riva family claims that           to the request for an explanation and divulgation of expansion plans for the       Coca-Cola’s plants in Columbia
    despite what he did, they will ar-          military base. Various ministers within the Italian government responded           sometime after March 2006. The
    range for a decent burial for him.          that this was an exaggerated reaction to a simple and “small” renewal pro-         investigating group will comprise
    Italian Broadcast exposes use               ject, while others were shocked when they realised the extent of the base’s        an international coalition that will
    of Chemical Weapons in Iraq                 unreported expansion projects.                                                     include the Columbian union
    Italian television program RAI                 The U.S. military base for nuclear submarines has long been an issue            SINATRAIAL, which began the
    news24, broadcast an expose on              of contention for the island community. Contention began in 1972 when              initial boycott against Coca-Cola
    November 8th with video footage             the base was constructed without the Italian government’s approval. And,           after its members who work at
    documenting use by American forc-           today, fears are that the nuclear submarines often stationed at the base are
    es of white phosphorus shells in the
                                                                                                                                   Coca-Cola plants were victims
                                                a risk not only to the surrounding nature reserve, which includes the entire       of 8 murders, as well as kidnap-
    assault on Falluja last year not just
    for night tiime illumination, their usu-    archipelago around the base, but also to the civilian population of the island.    pings, death threats, and legal
    al purose, but as a weapon against          Many also believe it is a deterrent to visitors who come for the area’s pristine   accusations.
    the insurgents. The mainstream              waters.                                                                                Many other regional officials
    American news media, whose re-                 In an interview last May with an Italian newspaper, former U.S. Ambas-          throughout Italy, including several
    porters had witnessed the fighting           sador Mel Sembler was quick to point out that both Italian and American            in Tuscany, have agreed with the
    and apparently seen no evidence of          studies verified that there was no evidence of radioactive contamination
    this, have largely ignored the claim,                                                                                          contestations of Rome’s officials
                                                from the base. Sembler also emphasised the importance of the continuing
    but the possible use of chemical                                                                                               and have also threatened to pro-
                                                operation of this base in collaboration with NATO as a fundamental part of
    weapons by U.S. troops has caused                                                                                              test upon the arrival of the torch
    a wave of protest in Italy.
                                                efforts in the Mediterranean region to combat terrorist threats.
                                                   There are currently about 2,500 military personnel located at the base.         in their regions.
                                                                              Sports                                                                                    7
www.theflorentine.net                                                                                                                        Thursday 17 November 2005



                                                                                                                             Sports NEWS
                                                                                                             Stefano Fiore


Fiorentina: Never Been                                                                                                       SERIE A Results 06 / 11
                                                                                                                             sat      Ascoli
                                                                                                                                                            round 11

                                                                                                                                                     Fiorentina 0-2

So High in Classifications                                                                                                    sat
                                                                                                                             sun
                                                                                                                             sun
                                                                                                                                      Cagliari
                                                                                                                                      Empoli
                                                                                                                                      Juventus
                                                                                                                                                     Treviso
                                                                                                                                                     Reggina 3-0
                                                                                                                                                     Livorno
                                                                                                                                                                0-0

                                                                                                                                                                3-0
Florence’s team is the surprise of this year’s championship                                                                  sun      Lazio          Inter      0-0
                                                                                                                             sun      Messina        Roma       0-2


                                         N
                                                  o viola fan would have ever     pionship in the last few minutes of        sun      Milan          Udinese 5-1
                 Coach Mr. Prandelli
                                                  thought that their home         the game.
                                                                                                                             sun      Palermo        Sampdoria 0-2
                                                  team would earn 25 points in       These results aren’t bad at all
                                         the classification ranking 12 games       considering the team had begun             sun      Parma          Lecce      2-0
                                         into the series, putting them just       this season with its main goal to          sun      Siena          Chievo     0-1
                                         three points behind Milan and five        just be able to remain in the Serie
                                         points behind championship leader        A Championship without suffering
                                         Juventus, two teams that truthfully      too much.                                   SERIE A Standings
                                         seem to come from another planet            However, there are now three
                                         as their playing is so good.             very difficult games coming up:             team       points       team       points
                                            The current classification of the      Milan, Roma and Juventus. After
                                         Fiorentina on the twelfth day of the     these, the true strength (or weak-         Juventus       30       Palermo       16
                                         championship is precisely that of the    ness) of Fiorentina will be seen.
                                                                                                                             Milan          28       Siena         14
                                         unbeatable team that won the Ital-          For now, fans continue to enjoy
                                         ian Championship in 1955/56, and         dreams of championships won,               Fiorentina     25       Udinese       14
                                         is five points higher than the Fio-       ignoring team owner, Diego della           Inter          20       Ascoli        11
                                         rentina team that finished second of      Valle’s often repeated advice to           Chievo         19       Parma          9
                                         the Championship in 1981/82 when         “keep feet on the ground”.                 Livorno        18       Reggina        9
                                         Juventus scored and won the Cham-                                                   Roma           18       Messina        8
                                                                                                                             Empoli         17       Treviso        6

Italian Football: Ibrahimovic SERIE A
                                                                                                                             Sampdoria      17       Cagliari       5
                                                                                                                             Lazio          16       Lecce          4

                              Round-up:
signs new Juve contract       Veron may
                                                                                                                             This week      19 - 20 / 11 2005 round 12



                                                                                       quit early
                                                uventus striker Zlatan Ibra-                                                 date hrs        home team      opponent
                                                himovic signed a new con-
                                                                                                                             sat    18.00    Udinese    Messina
                                                tract extension with the


                                                                                       I
                                             Turin team Juventus, according                                                  sat    20.30    Roma       Juventus
                                                                                           nter’s Juan Sebastian Veron
                                             to Italian media reports. The                 has revealed he may quit Italy    sun    15.00    Chievo       Ascoli
                                             new agreement will reportedly                 and return to his native Argen-   sun    15.00    Fiorentina    Milan
                                             see the Swedish international             tina even before his contract ends.   sun    15.00    Lecce         Siena
                                             stay at the club until the sum-           The midfielder is bound to the         sun    15.00    Livorno      Empoli
                                             mer of 2010.                              team until the end of this season,
                                                                                                                             sun    15.00    Reggina     Cagliari
                                                                                       but said on Wednesday: “I will
                                                                                       leave Europe and I have spoken        sun    15.00    Sampdoria     Lazio

   Football: World Cup Qualifications                                                   about it already with my family.
                                                                                       The Nerazzurri already signed the
                                                                                                                             sun
                                                                                                                             sun
                                                                                                                                    15.00
                                                                                                                                    20.30
                                                                                                                                             Treviso
                                                                                                                                             Inter
                                                                                                                                                        Palermo
                                                                                                                                                          Parma
                                                                                       ideal replacement for the Argen-
   F  ive spots still available in the Germany World Cup 2006. Important
      victories for Spain, Czech Republic, Switzerland and Uruguay on their
   way to the German World Cup. The results in the competition for the last
                                                                                       tine during the summer in the
                                                                                       form of David Pizarro from Udi-        Next week      26 / 11 2005   round 13
                                                                                       nese and could possibly build on
   five spots were: Spain-Slovakia, 5-1; Norway-Czech Republic, 0-1; Uru-               that with the money gained from       date hrs        home team      opponent
   guay-Australia, 1-0; Switzerland-Turkey. 2-0; Trinidad-Bahrain, 1-1.                Veron’s move when the January
                                                                                       transfer window opens up.             sat    18.00    Livorno      Chievo
                                                                                                                             sat    20.30    Milan         Lecce
                                                                                                                             sun    15.00    Ascoli      Palermo
Tennis Master Cup: Federer                                                             WRESTLING:
                                                                                                                             sun
                                                                                                                             sun
                                                                                                                                    15.00
                                                                                                                                    15.00
                                                                                                                                             Cagliari Sampdoria
                                                                                                                                             Empoli         Lazio
Fights To Beat Nalbandian                                                              EDDIE GUERRERO                        sun
                                                                                                                             sun
                                                                                                                                    15.00
                                                                                                                                    15.00
                                                                                                                                             Juventus
                                                                                                                                             Messina
                                                                                                                                                          Treviso
                                                                                                                                                             Inter
                                                                                       DIES AT 38
                S                           ome players would have crumbled                                                  sun    15.00    Parma       Udinese
                           R. Federer
                                            mentally. Not Roger Federer. The                                                 sun    15.00    Siena      Reggina
                                        world number one, returning for                 E. Guerrero
                                                                                                                             sun    20.30    Roma      Fiorentina
                                        his Masters Cup title defence after a
                                        seven-week absence due to an ankle
                                        injury, recorded his 32nd consecutive                                                 Top 5 scorers
                                        victory with a three set fight back over                                              player           team              goals
                                        Red Group rival David Nalbandian of
                                        Argentina.                                                                           1. Toni          Fiorentina          13
                                                                                                                             2. Bonazzoli     Sampdoria            8

                                                                                       T  he wrestling world is in mourn-    3. Tavano        Empoli               8
  Tennis: Lady Mauresmo wins WTA Championship                                             ing with the news of Eddie         4. Chiesa        Siena                8
                                                                                       Guerrero’s death. The wrestler of     5. Gilardino     Milan                7
  France’s Amelie Mauresmo recoveredbecomeset down defeating com-
   patriot Mary Pierce 5-7 7-6 6-4 to
                                      from a
                                             the first Frenchwoman                      Mexican origin was found lifeless
  to capture the season-ending WTA Championships. The 26-year-old                      in a hotel room in Minneapolis,
  claimed her biggest tennis trophy in a match which lasted more than                  where he was set to compete in
  three hours.                                                                         a match. He was 38 years old.            FORZA VIOLA!!!
8
Thursday 17 November 2005                                                                                                                                                               www.theflorentine.net



    Movies Review
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                                                                                        What’s on & Where to Go                                                                                       9
www.theflorentine.net                                                                                                                                                     Thursday 17 November 2005



                                                                                                        Events in FLORENCE                                             NOV 18 TO DEC 1
                                                                                                         mbership card necessary                        & show
                                                                                                         FRIDAY 18                                      SATURDAY 19
    OUR TOP PICKS                                                                                        n LECTURES & CONFERENCES                       n MARKETS & FESTIVALS
                                                                                 t tt                    Yemen, the Magic of Mud (in Italian)
                                                                                                         Multimedia presentation by A. Aversa
                                                                                                         C.R.C. Brozzi, via di Brozzi 312, tel
                                                                                                                                                        Collezionare a Firenze - Artigianarte
                                                                                                                                                        Christmas fair of antiques and crafts
                                                                                                                                                        Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel.
                                                                                                         055.317691, 21.15, free admittance             055.489776 or 348.3396638, www.
    FESTA DELLA TOSCANA - November 29-30                                                                                                                saschall.it, 10.00-19.00, €3
    Every November 30th, the Tuscany Region commemorates Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo’s                    n MUSIC & CONCERTS                             Fortezza Antiquaria
    abolition of the death penalty from Tuscany’s criminal code over 200 years ago on Nov 30,            Groovin’Trio
    1786. The day is celebrated with events promoting human rights, peace and justice. This                                                             Antique Market
                                                                                                         Caruso Jazz Café, via Lambertesca 16r, tel.    Piazza Indipendenza, tel. 055.3283550
    year’s edition is dedicated to Europe. On November 29 a free concert of artists and musicians        055.281940, www.carusojazzcafe.com, 21.00
    united against the death penalty will be held at the Nelson Mandela Forum. Among the artists
    participating are Piero Pelù, the Jubilee Shouters, Ginevra Di Marco, Riccardo Tesi, Pau from        Morgan Heritage                                n MUSIC & CONCERTS
    Negrita, Erriquez from Bandabardo’, Petra Magoni and Ferruccio Spinetti, Paolo Hendel, Folco         Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b,      Max Pezzali
    Terzani, Irene Grandi, and Lorenzo Jovanotti. For more information go to: www.consiglio.             tel. 055-210804, www.flog.it, 21.30, €13        Nelson Mandela Forum (ex Palasport), viale
    regione.toscana.it.                                                                                  L. Pieri piano & S. Scarinzi voice             Pasquale Paoli, tel. 055.678841, www.
                                                                                                         Ottorino Jazz Bistrò, via delle Oche 12/16r,   mandelaforum.it, 21.00, by reservation only
    BREAD AND OIL AT THE PRESS - November 27                                                             tel. 055.215151, 21.30, free admittance        G. Zei & M. Morrone guitars
    In an event similar to that of “Open Cantinas”, olive oil presses (frantoi) will open their doors    Tribute to Charles Mingus                      Ottorino Jazz Bistrò, via delle Oche 12/16r,
    to the public on November 27 in celebration of this year’s new oil. The initiative, also titled      Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.       tel. 055.215151, 21.30, free admittance
    “Andare per i Frantoi e Mercatini” (Going to Presses and Markets) is a chance to see, first-          055.2479700, 22.15, € 7                        Tribute to Charles Mingus
    hand, the process of making olive oil at presses, as well as an opportunity to taste all types of                                                   Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.
    new oil at local markets and fairs. For more info on Pane e olio in Frantoio go to: http://www.      Festival Vocum Concordia
                                                                                                         Sacred world music festival. Featuring the     055.2479700, 22.15, € 7
    cittadellolio.it/frameset.asp?pag=iniziative/dett_evento.asp?idEvento=33***idDettEvento=1
    07. Many other events are also being held in celebration of this fall’s olio nuovo throughout the    gypsy band Tekameli from Perpignan, the        Cocorosie
    month of November. For event dates check the events list on the following pages.                     Orthodox Quartet from Nice and the Vocum       Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b,
                                                                                                         Concentus Ensemble from Florence               tel. 055.210804, www.flog.it, 21.30, €8/5
    XXIII FIRENZE MARATHON - November 27                                                                 Cenacolo di Santa Croce, piazza Santa          Concert for Santa Cecilia by the
    The Firenze Marathon is Florence’s biggest sporting event of the year, and one of Italy’s most       Croce, tel. 055.8218208/2645356, 21.00
    important marathons. Held each November, the 42 km run is not only a race, but also a                                                               Filarmonica G. Rossini
    tour through some of the most beautiful sites of the city. The race begins at the panoramic          Suoni e Sapori Festival (Sounds and            Chiesa della SS. Annunziata, piazza SS.
    Piazzale Michelangelo and, after a run across Ponte Vecchio and through the Cascine Park,            Flavours)                                      Annunziata, 16.00, free admittance
    ends in Piazza Santa Croce. The Firenze Marathon Expo will also be held for two days prior           At 20.00: Latin music by the AgimusArte        Festival Vocum Concordia
    to the race at the New Athletic Stadium “Luigi Ridolfi”. For more information go to: www.             Orchestra; at 21.00 dinner                     Sacred world music festival, featuring the
    firenzemarathon.it.                                                                                   Fortezza da Basso, v.le Strozzi 1, tel.        Choirs from Dijon Conservatoire and from
                                                                                                         055.580996, www.firenze-expo.it, concert        Fez Conservatoire
    “DARE UNA MANO A NEW ORLEANS” CHARITY EVENT - November 21                                            €10/12, dinner €20                             Salone dei 500, Palazzo Vecchio,
    The Toscana-USA Association and the Fiesole Music School will be holding a charity dinner            The old vineyard jazz quartet                  piazza della Signoria, tel.
    to raise funds for the Southern University at New Orleans, which was badly damaged by                Together with the opening of a new exhibit     055.8218208/2645356, 17.00
    Hurricane Katrina in August. The Orchestra dei Ragazzi di Fiesole will perform Vivaldi’s             at 18.00                                       Doug Wamble “Bluestate”
    “Four Seasons” at 20.00 in the Church of SS. Annunziata. Following the concert a dinner              Il varco dei biffi, via dei Biffi 1, tel.        Pinocchio Jazz Club c/o Associazione
    gala event will be offered at the Circolo Ufficiali di Presidio with musical accompaniment            055.285148, 21.00                              Le Vie Nuove, v.le Giannotti 13, tel.
    by Maurizio Pasqui’s Blue Jazz Band. The fundraiser’s goal is to collect money to rebuild
    the university’s music department and to help acquire new musical instruments. For                   n THEATRE                                      055.680362, www.pinocchiojazz.it, €10,
                                                                                                                                                        only for ARCI members
    reservations call. 055.597851.                                                                       “Titus Andronicus” by William
                                                                                                         Shakespeare (in Italian)                       Suoni e Sapori Festival (Sounds and
    WHITE TRUFFLE FAIRS AND MARKETS - November 19-20, 26-27                                              Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,   Flavours)
    Two different towns in Tuscany will be celebrating the precious white truffle found in their          tel. 055.22641, www.pergola.firenze.it,         At 20.00: Latin music by the AgimusArte
    area’s woodlands during the month of November. The XXXV White Truffle Fair and Market                 20.45, €15/29                                  Orchestra; dinner at 21.00
    in San Miniato is a true truffle kermesse, that should only be missed if one chooses to instead                                                      Fortezza da Basso, v.le Strozzi 1, tel.
    attend the XX White Truffle Fair and Market in San Giovanni d’Asso (only on 19 and 20                 Improvised Theatre Match (in Italian)          055.580996, www.firenze-expo.it, concert
    November), also home to the truffle museum. For more information go to: http://www.                   SMS San Quirico, via Pisana 576, tel.          €10/12, dinner €20
    cittadisanminiato.it/informazioni/mesedopomese.htm#NOVEMBRE%20November                     and       347.6495902, 21.15
                                                                                                                                                        Florence Symphonietta
    http://www.comune.sangiovannidasso.siena.it.                                                         Povero Silvio (in Italian)                     Chiesa di S. Stefano al Ponte Vecchio, via
                                                                                                         Comical and satirical sketches by Antonio      Por Santa Maria, tel. 055.477805, 21.00,
    ART IN THE MAREMMA IN THE 1900’S - November 26 - January 29, 2006                                    Cornacchione mocking Silvio Berlusconi,        € 8/10
    This exhibition will offer for the first time ever a complete picture of the artistic movement in     the Italian Premier
    the Maremma region at the end of the 18th and beginning of the 19th centuries. The show              Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.     Emerson Quartet
    will include 113 paintings and sculptures, 75 photographs, and over 120 designs, documents,          055.362067, www.teatropuccini.it, 21.00        String quartets by Sostakovich
    books, and magazines. The exhibition will be on display in six different buildings within the                                                       Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18, tel.
                                                                                                         “Napoli milionaria” by Eduardo De              055.22641, www.amicimusica.fi.it,, 16.00
    historical centre of Grosseto.                                                                       Filippo (in Italian)
    INNOVATION WEEK - November 30 - December 7                                                           Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel.          n THEATRE
    The third edition of Innovation Week returns to Florence, and is an occasion for networking          055.212320, www.teatroverdifirenze.it, 20.45    “Titus Andronicus” by William
    and sharing information, and developing new projects to promote a culture of innovation. The         “Volpe Nuda” (in Italian)                      Shakespeare (in Italian)
    event is organised by several private entities and promoted by the Tuscany Region. It makes          Teatro del Sale, via dei Macci 111r, tel.      Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola 18,
    up part of a week culminating with the Vespucci Prize, an award recognising an enterprise            055.2001492, www.teatrodelsale.com,            tel. 055.22641, www.pergola.firenze.it,
    that has developed a particularly innovative project. For more information send an email to:         19.00-21.15 buffet, 21.30 show, € 24,          20.45, €15/29
    eventi@firenzetecnologia.it                                                                           membership mandatory                           Il Pastore ferito (in Italian)
                                                                                                                                                        Badia Fiorentina, via del Proconsolo/via
                                                                                                                                                        Dante, tel. 055.2344545, 21.30




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10                                                                                 What’s on & Where to Go
Thursday 17 November 2005                                                                                                                                                   www.theflorentine.net



 Events in FLORENCE                                                        NOV 18 TO DEC 1
Povero Silvio (in Italian)                          I’ marito der mi’ figliolo                          Jazz Ensamble del Conservatorio                “Confine” performed by C. Valentini
Comical and satirical sketches by Antonio           In Italian vernacular                              Ottorino Jazz Bistrò, via delle Oche 12/16r,   Teatro del Sale, via dei Macci 111r, tel.
Cornacchoine mocking Silvio Berlusconi,             Teatro di Rifredi, via Vittorio Emanuele           tel. 055.215151, 21.30, free admittance        055.2001492, www.teatrodelsale.com,
the Italian Premier                                 II 303, tel. 055.4220361, www.                                                                    19.00-21.15 buffet, 21.30 show, € 24,
Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.          toscanateatro.it, 16.30                            & show                                         membership mandatory
055.362067, www.teatropuccini.it, 21.00                                                                WEDNESDAY 23
                                                    La Vera vita di Gesù (in Italian)                                                                 & show
“Napoli milionaria” by Eduardo De                   Ambasciata di Marte, via Mannelli 2, tel.          n CINEMA                                       FRIDAY 25
Filippo (in Italian)                                055.6550786, www.ambasciatadimarte.
                                                                                                       McCabe and Mrs Miller (in English)
Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel.
055.212320, www.teatroverdifirenze.it,
                                                    org, 21.30
                                                                                                       By Robert Altman. Brief spoken                 n DANCE
20.45                                               & show                                             introduction, showing of the film and           Au Café
                                                    MONDAY 21                                          infomal follow-up discussion                   Micha van Hoecke Ensemble
I fantasmi di Boscobello (in Italian)                                                                  British Institute of Florence, Lungarno        Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.
Teatro Il Palco, Piazza Elia dalla Costa 26, tel.
055.6810496, www.teatroilpalco.com, 21.00
                                                    n CINEMA                                           Guicciardini 9, tel. 055.26778270, 20.30,      055.362067 /210804, www.teatropuccini.
                                                    The Brothers Grimm (in English)                    €5 admission (+ €5 membership)                 it, 21.30
La pianella perduta fra la neve (in
Italian)
                                                    Featuring M. Damon, H. Ledger, J. Pryce
                                                    Odeon Cinehall, piazza Strozzi, tel.
                                                                                                       n GUIDED TOURS                                 Sleeping Beauty
                                                                                                                                                      Moscow Ballet
Teatro Le Laudi, via L. da Vinci 2r,                055.214068, www.cinehall.it, 15.30,                Florence’s Markets                             Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel.
tel. 055.572831, www.caspi.it/teatri/               17.50, 20.10, 22.45                                Guided tours and sampling of                   055.212320, www.teatroverdifirenze.it,
defaultLaudi.htm, 21.00                                                                                typical foods in the San Lorenzo and           21.00
Volpe Nuda (in Italian)                             n MUSIC & CONCERTS                                 Sant’Ambrogio markets
Teatro del Sale, via dei Macci 111r, tel.           J. Galway, flute, J. Galway, flute, P.               Info and booking 055.3036108, every Tue        n LECTURES & CONFERENCES
055.2001492, www.teatrodelsale.com,                 Moll, piano                                        and Wed morning                                Tribal India and Laccadive Islands
19.00-21.15 buffet, 21.30 show, € 24,
membership mandatory
                                                    Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola 18, tel.
                                                    055.22641, www.amicimusica.fi.it, 21.00
                                                                                                       n LECTURES & CONFERENCES                       Multimedia presentation by Gianfranco
                                                                                                                                                      Gori and Cristina Innocenti (in Italian)
                                                                                                       Irish Saints in Italy                          C.R.C. Brozzi, via di Brozzi 312, tel
& show                                              Charity Night for New Orleans                      Lecture by Simon Young                         055.317691, 21.15, free admittance
SUNDAY 20                                           Concert by the Scuola di Musica di Fiesole         British Institute of Florence, Lungarno
                                                    students, followed by a gala dinner.               Guicciardini 9, tel. 055.26778270, 18.00       n MARKETS & FESTIVALS
n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                               Concert at Chiesa della SS. Annunziata,
                                                    piazza SS. Annunziata. Dinner at Circolo           n MUSIC & CONCERTS                             Moda e Solidarietà – il Mercatino
Olio Nuovo Fair                                     Ufficiali di Presidio, Info and booking                                                            delle Firme
Harvest fair with new oil                                                                              Joy De Vito Quartet                            Fashion fair of designer clothes,
                                                    055.597851                                         Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.
Piazza Santo Spirito, tel. 055.3283550                                                                                                                accessories, leather, lingerie and house
                                                    Isacco Rinaldi, pianoforte                         055.2479700, 22.15, €7                         items. Proceeds go to charity.
Collezionare a Firenze - Artigianarte               Music by Chopin and Debussy
Christmas fair of antiques and crafts                                                                  Ben Riley’s Monk Legacy Band                   Caffè Giubbe Rosse, Piazza della
                                                    Lyceum, Via degli Alfani, 48, tel. 055-            Caruso Jazz Café, via Lambertesca 16r, tel.    Repubblica, tel. 055.5000210, www.
Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel.                2478264, 17.00
055.489776 or 348.3396638, www.                                                                        055.281940, www.carusojazzcafe.com,            antfirenze.com/www.antitalia.org, 10.30-19
saschall.it, 10.00-19.00, €3                        N. Angilella, vocals & R. Andreucci,               21.00                                          XII Florence Marathon Exhibition
                                                    pianoforte                                         Incognito                                      Sport stands and initiatives related to
Portobello Market                                   Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.
piazza Elia Dalla Costa, tel. 055.2469353,                                                             Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b       Florence Marathon
                                                    055.2479700, 22.15, € 7                            tel. 055.487145, www.flog.it                    Nuovo Stadio Luigi Ridolfi, viale Malta,
8-19
                                                    & show                                             Maritani Gypsy Swing                           9.30-20.00, free admittance
n MUSIC & CONCERTS                                  TUESDAY 22                                         Teatro del Sale, via dei Macci 111r, tel.      n MUSIC & CONCERTS
7° festival “La voce delle donne”                                                                      055.2001492, www.teatrodelsale.com,
(Women’s Voice)                                     n CINEMA                                           19.00-21.15 buffet, 21.30 show, € 24,          Arthur Blythe & Bob Stewart “Exalted
                                                                                                                                                      Conversation”
Concert dedicated to the three most                 Elizabethtown (in English)                         membership mandatory
prominent female musicians from                                                                                                                       Jazz and contemporary music
                                                    Featuring Orlando Bloom, Kirsten Dunst,            & show                                         Sala Vanni, piazza del Carmine 19, tel.
the German Romantic period: Fanny
Mendelssohn-Hensel, Clara Wieck-
                                                    Susan Sarandon, Alec Baldwin.
                                                    Introducing “Apericinema”: on some
                                                                                                       THURSDAY 24                                    055.210804, 21.15, €12
Schumann and Alma Schindler-Mahler                                                                                                                    Fiorello “Volevo fare il ballerino….”
Cenacolo di Andrea del Sarto, via S.
                                                    selected Tuesday nights, cinema-goers
                                                    will be offered an aperitivo and a free
                                                                                                       n CINEMA                                       Nelson Mandela Forum (ex Palasport), viale
Salvi 16, tel. 055.2767828, 16.30, free             buffet supper from 19.45, followed by the          Elizabethtown (in English)                     Pasquale Paoli, tel. 055.678841, www.
admittance                                          scheduled movie screening at 21.30. This           Featuring Orlando Bloom, Kirsten Dunst,        mandelaforum.it, 21.00, by reservation only
Emerson Quartet                                     will provide an opportunity for socialising        Susan Sarandon, Alec Baldwin                   Franco Nesti Quintet
String quartets by Sostakovich                      and chatting about movies in the elegant           Odeon Cinehall, piazza Strozzi, tel.           Ottorino Jazz Bistrò, via delle Oche 12/16r,
Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18, tel.   surroundings of the Odeon’s cocktail bar           055.214068, www.cinehall.it, 15.30,            tel. 055.215151, 21.30, free admittance
055.22641, www.amicimusica.fi.it,, 21.00             Odeon Cine Hall, piazza Strozzi, tel.              17.50, 20.10, 22.45
                                                                                                                                                      Blanchard Ricciardelli
Il Signor Fagotto                                   055.214068, www.cinehall.it, 15.30,
                                                    17.50. Apericinema from 19.45; € 11
                                                                                                       n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                          Brit pop-rock
By U. Codecà, bassoon, and M. Parolini,                                                                Flower Market                                  Ambasciata di Marte, via Mannelli 2, tel.
pianoforte                                          cinema and free buffet supper                                                                     055.6550786, www.ambasciatadimarte.
                                                                                                       Via Pellicceria, 8-13
Auditorium della Clinica Medica di Careggi,         n GUIDED TOURS                                                                                    org, 22.00
viale Morgagni, www.agimusfirenze.it,
                                                    Florence’s Markets
                                                                                                       n MUSIC & CONCERTS                             Cream Of Mandarins
10.30, free admittance                                                                                                                                Caruso Jazz Café, via Lambertesca 16r, tel.
                                                    Guided tours and sampling of                       Cuban music by Perfidia Quartet
Suoni Riflessi Festival: a Musical                   typical foods in the San Lorenzo and               Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.       055.281940, www.carusojazzcafe.com,
Tribute to Italo Calvino                            Sant’Ambrogio markets                              055.2479700, 22.15, € 7                        21.00
Performed by the Nuovo Contrappunto                 Info and booking 055.3036108, every Tue                                                           Les Gratte-Jambons Quintet
Ensemble                                                                                               G. Maurino sax & R. Taufik guitar
                                                    and Wed morning                                    Ottorino Jazz Bistrò, via delle Oche 12/16r,   Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.
Sala Vanni p.za del Carmine 19, tel.                                                                                                                  055.2479700, 22.15, € 7
055.699223, www.nuovocontrappunto.                  The Ferragamo Museum and                           tel. 055.215151, 21.30, free admittance
it, 10.30                                           the terrace on top of the antique                  Barbuto                                        Negrita “L’uomo sogna di volare” Tour
                                                    Gianfigliazzi Dungeon                               Electrified Afro-Cuban music                    Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel.
n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES                               Start at 15.45 from piazza Santa Trinità,          Ambasciata di Marte, via Mannelli 2, tel.      055.6504112, www.saschall.it, 21.00
Fiorentina – Milan                                  info and booking tel. 055.461428, http://          055.6550786, 22.00                             Perfect + Kanga Roots Sound System
Serie A professional soccer match                   it.geocities.com/associazione_akropolis                                                           Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b
                                                                                                       Musa Ludens – The Flavour of Spices
Stadio Comunale Artemio Franchi v.le M.             The Oil Press of Maiano Factory                    Concert and readings                           tel. 055.210804, www.flog.it, 22.00, €5
Fanti, 4/6 Campo di Marte Firenze, tel.             Guided tour and tasting of olive oil               Teatro 13, Via Nicolodi 2, tel.                R. Lani in concert
055-5030190, 15.00                                  products                                           055.2767831, 21.00                             Il varco dei biffi, via dei Biffi 1, tel.
                                                    Fattoria di Maiano, via B. da Maiano 11,
n THEATRE                                           Fiesole, booking 055.599600, €9                    Sigur Ros & Amina                              055.285148, 21.00, free admittance
                                                                                                       Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel.
“Titus Andronicus” by William
                                                    n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                              055.6504112, www.saschall.it, 21.00,           n THEATRE
Shakespeare (in Italian)                                                                               €28.70
Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,        Mercato delle Cascine                                                                             I Marziani (in Italian)
tel. 055.22641, www.pergola.firenze.it,              Clothing, leather, fruit, shoes, flowers,           Tribute to Bill Evans
                                                                                                       Teatro Puccini Ridotto, via delle Cascine      Alberto Savieri’s latest text
15.45, €15/29                                       household appliances.                                                                             Il Teatrino dell’Imbarco, c/o Scuola Media
                                                    Parco delle Cascine, 8-13                          41, tel. 055.331449, www.teatropuccini.
“Napoli milionaria” by Eduardo De                                                                      it, 21.00                                      Guicciardini, via Ramirez de Montalvo 1,
Filippo (in Italian)                                A Farewell to Florence....                                                                        tel. 329 4187925, 21.00, €6/8
Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel.               Prom Style evening for college students            Will Calhoun & Dough Wimbish
                                                                                                       Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b       Improvised Theatre Match (in Italian)
055.212320, www.teatroverdifirenze.it,               who are finishing their semester in                                                                SMS San Quirico, via Pisana 576, tel.
16.45                                               Florence. Elegant candlelit, sit down              tel. 055.210804, www.flog.it, €12/10
                                                                                                                                                      347.6495902, 21.15
I fantasmi di Boscobello (in Italian)               dinner, wine and music                             William Tatge Trio
                                                    Info and booking: Richie tel. 333.7105550,         Caruso Jazz Café, via Lambertesca 16r, tel.    Giallo Serial Killer (in Italian)
Teatro Il Palco, Piazza Elia dalla Costa 26, tel.                                                                                                     Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.
055.6810496, www.teatroilpalco.com, 16.30           €40, dress code: elegant                           055.281940, www.carusojazzcafe.com,
                                                                                                                                                      055.3331449, www.teatropuccini.it, 21.00
La pianella perduta fra la neve (in                 n MUSIC & CONCERTS                                 21.00
                                                                                                                                                      “Confine” performed by C. Valentini
Italian)
Teatro Le Laudi, via L. da Vinci 2r,
                                                    Bob Brozman, the best Hawaiian                     n THEATRE                                      Teatro del Sale, via dei Macci 111r, tel.
                                                    guitar virtuoso                                    Un re in ascolto                               055.2001492, www.teatrodelsale.com,
tel. 055.572831, www.caspi.it/teatri/               Teatro del Sale, via dei Macci 111r, tel.                                                         19.00-21.15 buffet, 21.30 show, € 24,
defaultLaudi.htm, 17.00                                                                                Accademia delle Arti del Disegno, via
                                                    055.2001492, www.teatrodelsale.com,                Ricasoli 68, tel. 055.331449, www.fol.         membership mandatory & show
                                                    19.00-21.15 buffet, 21.30 show, € 24,              it/accademia, 21.00, free admittance
                                                    membership mandatory
                                                                            What’s on & Where to Go                                                                                      11
www.theflorentine.net                                                                                                                                         Thursday 17 November 2005



                                                                                           Events in FLORENCE                                              NOV 18 TO DEC 1
SATURDAY 26
                                               Dio non gioca a dadi - omaggio ad
                                               Albert Einstein (in Italian)                   n THEATRE                                      Diletto Choir
                                                                                                                                             Teatro del Sale, via dei Macci 111r, tel.
                                               Teatro di Rifredi, via Vittorio Emanuele       Il favoloso cincinnato                         055.2001492, www.teatrodelsale.com,
n DANCE                                        II 303, tel. 055.4220361, www.                 In Italian vernacular                          19.00-21.15 buffet, 21.30 show, € 24,
Au Café                                        toscanateatro.it, 21.00 €12/14                 Teatro di Rifredi, via Vittorio Emanuele       membership mandatory
                                                                                              II 303, tel. 055.4220361, www.
Micha van Hoecke Ensemble
Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.
                                               “Confine” performed by C. Valentini
                                               Teatro del Sale, via dei Macci 111r, tel.      toscanateatro.it, 16.30                        n THEATRE
055.362067 /210804, www.teatropuccini.         055.2001492, www.teatrodelsale.com,            Giallo Serial Killer (in Italian)              Giovanna d’Arco (in Italian)
it, 21.30                                      19.00-21.15 buffet, 21.30 show, € 24,          Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.     Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,
                                               membership mandatory                           055.3331449, www.teatropuccini.it, 21.00       tel. 055.22641, www.pergola.firenze.it,
Sleeping Beauty                                                                                                                              until December 4, 20.45, on Sun 15.45,
Moscow Ballet                                  & show                                         Arlecchino servitore di due padroni (in        €15/29
Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel.          SUNDAY 27                                      Italian)
                                                                                              Text by Carlo Goldoni                          L’Isola (in Italian)
055.212320, www.teatroverdifirenze.it,
                                                                                                                                             Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.
21.00                                          n DANCE                                        Teatro Le Laudi, via L. da Vinci 2r,
                                                                                              tel. 055.572831, www.caspi.it/teatri/          055.362067, www.teatropuccini.it, 21.00
SpreadingOut / Dif-fusione poetica             Sleeping Beauty
Dance and poetry                                                                              defaultLaudi.htm, 21.00                        Muro di silenzio - Abu Ghraib (in
                                               Moscow Ballet                                                                                 Italian)
Sala Costantini, Museo Archeologico,           Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel.          & show
Fiesole, tel. 055.350986, 21.00, free          055.212320, www.teatroverdifirenze.it,          MONDAY 28                                      “A play against barbarism”
                                                                                                                                             Teatro di Rifredi, via Vittorio Emanuele
admittance                                     21.00
n EXHIBITS                                                                                    n CINEMA                                       II 303, tel. 055.4220361, www.
                                               n EXHIBITS                                     Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire (in
                                                                                                                                             toscanateatro.it, 21.00
Free access to all museums from the            San Giorgio Bulwark                                                                           & show
                                                                                              English)
“Comune di Firenze” for Florence               Monthly opening of this 16th century           Featuring Daniel Radcliffe, Ralph Fiennes,     WEDNESDAY 30
residents                                      bulwark                                        Gary Oldman
List of the museums on http://www.
comune.firenze.it/servizi_pubblici/arte/
                                               Baluardo di San Giorgio, via di Belvedere      Odeon Cinehall, piazza Strozzi, tel.           n CINEMA
                                               (close to P.ta San Giorgio and Forte           055.214068, www.cinehall.it, 16.00,            The Long Goodbye (in English)
musei, tel. 055-2625955                        Belvedere), 9.30-12.30                         19.00, 22.00                                   By Robert Altman. Brief spoken
n GUIDED TOURS                                 n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                          n MUSIC & CONCERTS                             introduction, showing of the film and
Cappella dei Principi & Sagrestia Nuova                                                                                                      infomal follow-up discussion
                                               Moda e Solidarietà – Mercatino delle Firme     Nek                                            British Institute of Florence, Lungarno
Start at 15.30 from piazza Madonna degli       Fashion fair of designer clothes,
Aldobrandini in front of the museum, info                                                     Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel.           Guicciardini 9, tel. 055.26778270, 20.30,
                                               accessories, leather, lingerie and house       055.6504112, www.saschall.it, www.             €5 admission (+ €5 membership)
and booking tel. 055.461428, http://           items. Proceeds go to charity.                 boxol.it, 21.00
it.geocities.com/associazione_akropolis        Caffè Giubbe Rosse, Piazza della
                                                                                              Giambalaya Duo
                                                                                                                                             n EXHIBITS
n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                          Repubblica, tel. 055.5000210, www.
                                               antfirenze.com/www.antitalia.org, 10.30-19      Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.       Paintings and Graphics by Riccardo
Moda e Solidarietà – Mercatino delle Firme                                                    055.2479700, 22.15, € 7                        Saldarelli
Fashion fair of designer clothes,              Flea Market                                                                                   Galleria Gruppo Donatello, via degli
                                               Piazza dei Ciompi                              & show                                         Artisti 2r, tel. 055.579207, November 30-
accessories, leather, lingerie and house
items. Proceeds go to charity.                 Mercantico, antique market
                                                                                              TUESDAY 29                                     December 12, 17.30-19.30
Caffè Giubbe Rosse, Piazza della
Repubblica, tel. 055.5000210, www.
                                               Piazza Garibaldi, Fiesole, all day
                                                                                              n CINEMA                                       n GUIDED TOURS
antfirenze.com/www.antitalia.org, 10.30-19      n MUSIC & CONCERTS                             Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire (in        Florence’s Markets
                                               Robert Plant                                   English)                                       Guided tours and sampling of
XII Florence Marathon Exhibition                                                                                                             typical foods in the San Lorenzo and
Sport stands and initiatives related to        Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel.           Featuring Daniel Radcliffe, Ralph Fiennes,
                                               055.6504112, www.saschall.it, www.             Gary Oldman                                    Sant’Ambrogio markets
Florence Marathon                                                                                                                            Info and booking 055.3036108, every Tue
Nuovo Stadio Luigi Ridolfi, viale Malta, tel.   boxol.it, 21.00                                Odeon Cinehall, piazza Strozzi, tel.
                                                                                              055.214068, www.cinehall.it, 16.00,            and Wed morning
055.5522957, www.firenzemarathon.it,            András Schiff, pianoforte
9.30-20.00, free admittance                                                                   19.00, 22.00                                   Guided tour of the “Madonnas of
                                               Piano sonatas by Beethoven
n MUSIC & CONCERTS                             Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,   n GUIDED TOURS                                 Chianti” exhibition
                                                                                                                                             Meeting point: 15:30 on piazza Signoria
                                               tel. 055.22641, www.amicimusica.fi.it,
Bread & Tomato Trio                            21.00                                          Florence’s Markets                             in front of David, info and booking tel.
Pinocchio Jazz Club c/o Associazione                                                          Guided tours and sampling of                   055.461428, http://it.geocities.com/
                                               Baby Rock                                      typical foods in the San Lorenzo and           associazione_akropolis
Le Vie Nuove, v.le Giannotti 13, tel.          Children’s choir                               Sant’Ambrogio markets
055.683388, www.pinocchiojazz.it, 22.00,
€8, for ARCI members only
                                               Melbookstore Seeber , via de’ Cerretani        Info and booking 055.3036108, every Tue        n MARKETS & FESTIVALS
                                               16r, tel. 055.287339, www.melbookstore.        and Wed morning                                Festa della Toscana
M. Bigazzi & F. Petreni (voice, drums          it, 11.00                                                                                     Every year on November 30 the Tuscany
and guitar)                                                                                   The Oil Press of Maiano Factory
                                               The Saxophone from the 19th century            Guided tour and tasting of olive oil           region commemorates the abolition
Ottorino Jazz Bistrò, via delle Oche 12/16r,   to nowadays                                                                                   of death penalty of Nov 30, 1786 and
tel. 055.215151, 21.30, free admittance                                                       products
                                               Auditorium della Clinica Medica di Careggi,    Fattoria di Maiano, via B. da Maiano 11,       supports events promoting human rights,
Il Piccolo Principe... in musica               viale Morgagni, tel. 055.580996, www.          Fiesole, booking 055.599600, €9                peace and justice. This year’s edition is
The AgimusArte soloists                        agimusfirenze.it, 10.30, free admittance                                                       dedicated to Europe.
Fortezza da Basso, v.le Strozzi 1, tel.        7th Festival “La Voce delle Donne”
                                                                                              n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                          Several places in Florence and throughout
055.580996, www.agimusfirenze.it, 17.00,        (Women’s Voice)                                Mercato delle Cascine                          Tuscany, tel. 800-401291, www.consiglio.
€5                                             Marco Bonechi, piano, Leonardo Sesenna         Clothing, leather, fruit, shoes, flowers,       regione.toscana.it/
Killer Queen
Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel.
                                               Osvàth, cello
                                               Cenacolo di Andrea del Sarto, via S. Salvi
                                                                                              household appliances.
                                                                                              Parco delle Cascine, 8-13
                                                                                                                                             n MUSIC & CONCERTS
055.6504112, www.saschall.it, 21.00            16, tel. 055.2767828, 16.30                                                                   Joy De Vito Quartet
                                                                                              Christmas Fair                                 Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.
Latina Jazz Contest                            Concert by the winners of the “Vittorio        Books, hand-made crafts, cakes and             055.2479700, 22.15, €7
Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.       Gui” prize                                     biscuits freshly baked, all on a Christmas
055.2479700, 22.15, € 7                        Chamber music ensembles                        theme                                          Richard Galliano & Soloists from ORT
                                               Piccolo Teatro Comunale, corso Italia 16,      British Institute of Florence, Library and     Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel.
Orchestra da Camera di Mantova                                                                cultural centre, lungarno Guicciardini 15,     055.212320, www.teatroverdifirenze.it,
Music by Mozart                                tel. 199.112112, www.maggiofiorentino.
                                               com, 20.30, free admittance                    tel. 055.26778270, 15.00                       21.00
Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,
tel. 055.22641, www.amicimusica.fi.it,
16.00
                                               Concert by the Scuola di Musica di
                                               Fiesole masters
                                                                                              n MUSIC & CONCERTS                             The Blaze Ensemble, wind quintet
                                                                                                                                             British Institute of Florence, Lungarno
                                               Auditorium Sinopoli - Villa La Borraccia,      Suono Italiano Festival: Asteriskos            Guicciardini 9, tel. 055.26778270, 18.00
n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES                          via delle Fontanelle 24, Fiesole, tel.         Sicilian new folk music
                                                                                                                                             n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES
                                               055.597851, 11.00, €8/4                        Teatro Le Laudi, via Leonardo Da Vinci 2r,
Judo National Tournaments                                                                     tel. 055.572831, 21.15, free admittance
20th Memorial S. Ginestrini and 6th                                                                                                          Fiorentina – Juventus
Memorial G. Busi                               n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES                          Tuscan artists and musicians against           Series A soccer match
Palestra San Marcellino, via Chiantigiana,     XXII Firenze Marathon                          death penalty                                  Stadio Comunale Artemio Franchi v.le M.
28. Info: 055.6532156                          Starts at 9.00 from Piazzale Michelangelo      Part of the “Festa della Toscana” events       Fanti, 4/6 Campo di Marte Firenze, tel.
                                               and arrival in piazza Santa Croce.             Nelson Mandela Forum (ex Palasport), viale     055-5030190
n THEATRE                                      42.195 km around the city center, all info:    Pasquale Paoli, tel. 800-401291, www.
                                                                                                                                             n THEATRE
I Marziani (in Italian)                        Organizzazione Firenze Marathon, tel:          consiglio.regione.toscana.it,
Alberto Savieri’s latest text                  055/5522957, www.firenzemarathon.it             Riccardo Fassi Trio & D. Carraresi sax         Giovanna d’Arco (in Italian)
Il Teatrino dell’Imbarco, c/o Scuola Media                                                    Ottorino Jazz Bistrò, via delle Oche 12/16r,   Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,
                                               Cus Firenze Giunti - Net.com Lazio &                                                          tel. 055.22641, www.pergola.firenze.it,
Guicciardini, via Ramirez de Montalvo 1,       Primavera                                      tel. 055.215151, 21.30, free admittance
tel. 329 4187925, 21.00, €6/8                                                                                                                until December 4, 20.45, on Sun 15.45,
                                               Series A rugby match                           Today’s Composers in Florence:                 €15/29
Giallo Serial Killer (in Italian)              Campo Padovani Viale Pasquale Paoli, 21        Ganesh Del Vescovo
Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.     Campo di Marte, tel. 055-573821. 14.30         Music for guitar and flute                      L’Isola (in Italian)
055.3331449, www.teatropuccini.it, 21.00                                                      Lyceum, via degli Alfani, 48, tel.             Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.
                                               Judo National Tournaments                                                                     055.362067, www.teatropuccini.it, 21.00
Arlecchino servitore di due padroni (in        20th Memorial S. Ginestrini and 6th            055.2478264, www.lyceumclubfirenze.
Italian)                                       Memorial G. Busi                               net, 17.00                                     Muro di silenzio - Abu Ghraib (in Italian)
Text by Carlo Goldoni                          Palestra San Marcellino, via Chiantigiana,     Cues Trio meets Dave Liebman                   “A play against barbarism”
Teatro Le Laudi, via L. da Vinci 2r,           28. Info: 055.6532156                          Caruso Jazz Café, via Lambertesca 16r, tel.    Teatro di Rifredi, via Vittorio Emanuele
tel. 055.572831, www.caspi.it/teatri/                                                         055.281940, www.carusojazzcafe.com,            II 303, tel. 055.4220361, www.
defaultLaudi.htm, 21.00                                                                       21.00                                          toscanateatro.it, 21.00
12                                                                               What’s on & Where to Go
Thursday 17 November 2005                                                                                                                                                  www.theflorentine.net



  Events in FLORENCE                                                    NOV 18 TO DEC 1
Lezione di cucina                                 Slovakia, crossroads of European                  Landscapes and Nature in Lodovico               Bardini Garden
Fabio Picchi presents his favourite restaurants   civilisations                                     Pachò’s photographs                             Giardino Bardini, via dei Bardi 1r, www.
Teatro del Sale, via dei Macci 111r, tel.         Museo Archeologico Nazionale, via della           Gabinetto di Disegni e Stampe degli Uffizi,      bardinipeyron.it, until February 28 2006,
055.2001492, www.teatrodelsale.com,               Colonna 36, tel. 055.294883, www.                 Loggiato degli Uffizi 6, tel. 055.2388671,       guided visits from 8.15 to 16.30
19.00-21.15 buffet, 21.30 show, € 24,             firenzemusei.it/archeologica, until January        until November 21, Tue-Mon, free                Hortibus Collection & Garden tours
membership mandatory                              15, 2006                                          admittance                                      Starting point: piazza S.Trinita, every Thur
& show                                            “Wherever you are, wherever you go”               Accattone                                       and Sat at 15.00, info 348.9100783,
THURSDAY 1                                        by Pedro Cabrita Reis                             Photography exhibit on the 30th                 www.hortibus.com, € 25
                                                  Base Progetti per l’Arte, via San Niccolò         anniversary of the death of Pier Paolo
n CINEMA                                          18r, tel. 055.679378, until November 30,          Pasolini’s, a famous Italian director           n MARKETS & FESTIVALS
                                                  18-20                                             Palazzo Pitti, Galleria del Gabbiano, p.za      Florence Noël
Flightplan (in English)                                                                             Pitti, tel. 055-288342, until January 9         Christmas Fair with Santa Claus’ house,
Featuring Jodie Foster, Peter Sarsgaard,          Restoration of Donatello’s Amore-Attis
                                                  Museo Nazionale del Bargello, via del             2006, Tue-Sun 8.15-18.50, €6,50                 chocolate village, children’s workshops, etc
Sean Bean                                                                                                                                           Stazione Leopolda, viale Fratelli Rosselli 5,
Odeon Cinehall, piazza Strozzi, tel.              Proconsolo 4, tel. 055-2654321, www.              Ceramics by Paolo Staccioli
                                                  polomuseale.firenze.it, until January 8            Palazzo Pitti, Museo delle Porcellane, tel.     tel. 347.6253546 or 0571.902750, www.
055.214068, www.cinehall.it, 15.30,                                                                                                                 florencenoel.it, November 19-27, Mon-Thu
17.50, 20.10, 22.45                               2006, 8.15-13.50, closed on 2nd and 4th           055.2388709, until June 25 2006, 8.15-
                                                  Mon and on 1st, 3rd and 5th Sun of the            16.30, closed on the 1st and last Monday        15-22, Fri-Sun 10-22, €5/8
n DANCE                                           month                                             of the month                                    Heidelberger Weihnachtsmarkt
Danze d’Inverno (Winter Dances):                  Mythologica et Erotica                            “Hyperlandscapes” by Paolo Consorti             German Christmas Market
Stanze                                            Art and Culture from Antiquity to the XVIII       Sergio Tossi Arte Contemporanea, via            Piazza Santa Croce, tel.
The Aldes company                                 century                                           Ippolito Pindemonte 63, tel. 055.2286163,       055.27681/27051, November 30-
Teatro della Limonaia, via Gramsci 426,           Museo degli Argenti, Palazzo Pitti, until         until December 7, Tue-Sat 15-19                 December 18, 10.00-20.00
Sesto Fiorentino, tel. 055.440852, www.           May 15 2006, 8.15-18.30 (Oct, April,              Renato Mertens                                  Mercato del Porcellino
teatrodellalimonaia.it, December 1, 21.00,        May), 8.15-16.30 (Nov, Dec, Jan, Feb),            Galleria Immaginaria Arti Visive, via Guelfa    Florentine crafts with straw, hand-made
€10/12                                            8.15-17.30 (March)                                22/a, tel. 055-2654093, until November          embroidery, leather and woodwork, flowers
                                                                                                                                                    Logge del Porcellino, all day
n EXHIBITS                                        Ininterrotta
                                                  Multimedia group exhibition
                                                                                                    22, Mon-Sat 9:30-13:00 and 15:30-
                                                                                                    19:30, Sun 17:00-20:00                          Innovation week
Paintings and graphics by Riccardo                Daniele Ugolini Contemporary, via XXVII                                                           Series of events related to innovation
Saldarelli                                                                                          Words, Music and Images from Luigi
                                                  Aprile 49 r, tel. 055.473375, www.                Dallapiccola’s life and works                   Different places in Florence and around
Galleria Gruppo Donatello, via degli              ugoliniart.com, until November 26, 16-                                                            Florence, tel. 055.2661044, www.
Artisti 2r, tel. 055.579207, November 30-                                                           Galleria di Arte Moderna, Palazzo Pitti, tel.
                                                  19.30, free admission                             055. 2388601, until December 21, 8.15-          settimanainnovazione.it, November 30-
December 12, 17.30-19.30                                                                                                                            December 7, free admittance
                                                  Donna. Donne                                      13.50
n GUIDED TOURS                                    Exhibition dedicated to the theme of the          Incontro fra coloristi                          n MUSIC & CONCERTS
Chiesa di San Felice in Piazza                    “feminine” in contemporary art                    Maison Enrico Coveri , Lungarno
                                                  Palazzo Strozzi, piazza Strozzi, tel.                                                             La Traviata
Meeting point: 10.00 in piazza San                                                                  Guicciardini 19, tel. 055.281004, until         Teatro Comunale, corso Italia 16, tel.
Felice / via Maggio), info and booking            055.2776461, www.palazzostrozzi.info,             December 12, Tues-Sat, 11-13, 15.30-
                                                  until January 8 2006, 10-19                                                                       055.213535, www.maggiofiorentino.com,
tel. 055.461428, http://it.geocities.com/                                                           19.30                                           on Nov 25, 27, 29 and Dec 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 9,
associazione_akropolis                            Interferenza                                      Reversibile                                     at 20:30 except Sun at 15:30
                                                  Site specific sculpture and works on paper
n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                             by Hidetoshi Nagasawa
                                                                                                    Photographs by Perikles Boutos
                                                                                                    Florence Dance Center, Borgo della Stella
                                                                                                                                                    Organ and instrumental concerts
Flower Market                                     Galleria Il Ponte, via di Mezzo 42 b, tel.                                                        Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Ricci, via del
                                                                                                    23r, tel. 055.289276, until December 2,         Corso, tel. 055.289367, until December
Via Pellicceria, 8-13                             055.240617, www.galleriailponte.com,              Mon-Sat, 13.00-15.00
                                                  until December 31, 16-19.30, closed on                                                            31, Mon-Sun 21.15, Sat 18.00, €11
n MUSIC & CONCERTS                                Mondays, Sundays and Holidays                     “Figura ed ideogramma” by Gaspare               Concerts at St. Mark’s English Church
                                                                                                    O. Melcher                                      Italian opera arias and traditional
“Che il tuo amor mi morda più del vino”           “The Colors of the World” by Piero da             SACI Gallery Studio Art Centers
Music and readings about wine                     Uboldo                                                                                            Neapolitan Songs
                                                                                                    International, Palazzo dei Cartelloni, via      St. Mark’s English Church, via Maggio 16-
Teatro 13, Via Nicolodi 2, tel.                   Paintings and sculptures                          S. Antonino 11, tel. 055.28994, until
055.2767831, 21.00                                Otel Congress, Lungarno Diaz 9, tel.                                                              18, tel. 340.8119192, every day 21.15
                                                                                                    November 30, Mon-Fri, 9-17                      except Thurs, €15. For The Florentine
Orchestra della Toscana                           055.650791, www.otelvariete.com, until
Directed by Jeffrey Tate                          December 9, free admittance                       Paintings by Gabriele Stringa                   readers €10
                                                                                                    Galleria Gruppo Donatello, via degli Artisti    Free piano recitals
Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel.             “Invisible Cities” by Pedro Cano                  2r, tel. 055.579207, until November 28,
055.212320, www.teatroverdifire, 21.00             Paintings inspired by Italo Calvino’s                                                             St. Mark’s English Church, via Maggio 16-
                                                                                                    17.30-19.30                                     18, tel. 340.8119192, every Thursday at
                                                  masterpiece “Invisible Cities”
n THEATRE                                         Sala d’Arme di Palazzo Vecchio, Palazzo           10 Galleries, 10 Artists                        21.15, free admittance
Giovanna d’Arco (in Italian)                                                                        10 Florentine galleries present 10
Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,
                                                  Vecchio, piazza della Signoria, tel.
                                                  055.6120467, www.falteri.it/calvino, until        important art events during the winter          n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES
tel. 055.22641, www.pergola.firenze.it,            November 22, 10-18                                months                                          Le Mulina horse track
until December 4, 20.45, on Sun 15.45,                                                              Several galleries in Florence, tel.             Ippodromo Le Mulina, Parco delle Cascine,
                                                  Leon Battista Alberti: a Humanist’s               055.23320, www.invernoafirenze.it, until         viale Pegaso 1, tel. 055.411130, until
€15/29                                            Library                                           February 28, 2006                               December, afternoon races at 14.30
Laboratorio Zelig (in Italian)                    Biblioteca Laurenziana, p.za S. Lorenzo 9,
Performed by young selected comics
Teatro di Rifredi, via Vittorio Emanuele
                                                  055-210760, www.bml.firenze.sbn.it, until
                                                  January 7 2006, 9.30 – 13, €3/5, guided
                                                                                                    Gemine Muse 2005
                                                                                                    Works by Dario Ariamone, Chiara
                                                                                                                                                    n THEATRE
II 303, tel. 055.4220361, www.                    tours in English available                        Guarducci and Simone Simonetti                  Il penultimo tango a Compiobbi (in
toscanateatro.it, 21.00, €10                                                                        Museo di Firenze Com’Era, via Oriolo 4, tel.    Italian)
                                                  Perugino a Firenze                                055.2625982                                     Teatro Nuovo, via Fanfani 16, tel.
Una storia d’amore. Anton Cechov e                Painting exhibition                                                                               055.413067, until December 26, Sat
Olga Knipper (in Italian)                         Cenacolo di Fuligno, via Faenza, 40, tel.         Looking Anew at Ancient Egypt                   21.15, Sun and Holidays 16.15, €11
Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.        055.2337702, until January 8 2006, 2006,          Associazione Archeosofica, Viale
055.362067, www.teatropuccini.it, 21.00           Tues-Sun, 10-18, free admittance                  Cadorna 53/b, tel. 055.4620035, www.            Sostiene Pereira (in Italian)
                                                                                                    archeosofica.org, until December 18,             Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola 18,
& show                                            “Bâbords” by Jean-François Boclé                  16.30-21.30; free guided visits in English      tel. 055.22641, www.pergola.firenze.it,
ONGOING                                           An art exhibit about slavery mixing art and       every Sunday                                    November 22-27, 20.45, on Sun 15.45,
                                                  politics                                                                                          €15/29
                                                                                                    Domestic Mediterranean. Science as a
n DANCE                                           Institut Français de Florence, Piazza
                                                  Ognissanti 2 , tel. 055. 2718801, www.            link between cultures                           & show
Barocco: The Moor’s Pavane -                      istitutofrancese.it, until December 23            Exhibit with images from fieldwork.              UP COMING
Chaconne - Eppur si move                                                                            Salone degli scheletri, Museo La Specola,
                                                  “Weft and Worp” by Gianfranco
Choreography by José Limo and Giorgio
Mancini                                           Zappettini
                                                                                                    via Romana 17, tel. 055.2288217,                n MUSIC & CONCERTS
                                                                                                    November 10-20, 9.30-17.30, free
Teatro Goldoni, via Santa Maria 15, tel.          Galleria Varart , via dell’Oriuolo 47/49,         admittance                                      Lee Ryan
055.2335518, www.maggiofiorentino.it, on           tel. 055.213827, until December 31, 10-                                                           Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel.
                                                  12.30, 16-19.30                                   III International Exhibits                      055.6504112, www.saschall.it, Dec 5, 21.00
November 20, 22, 23, 24, 26 and 30, at                                                              Featuring winning diplomas in Architecture
20:30 except Sun at 15:30, €40/13                 Leonardo da Vinci: The True Image.                and environment                                 Oasis
                                                  Testimonies and documents of his life and                                                         Nelson Mandela Forum (ex Palasport), viale
n EXHIBITS                                        work
                                                                                                    Info & applications: Fondazione Romualdo
                                                                                                    Del Bianco, www. fondazione-delbianco.          Pasquale Paoli, tel. 055.678841, www.
Food and Flavours in the Ancient                  Archivio di Stato, viale Giovine Italia 6, tel.   org, www.florence-expo.com, applications         mandelaforum.it, February 6, 2006
World                                             055.244422, until January 28 2006, 9.30-          until December 31.                              Deep Purple
Museo Archeologico, via della Colonna             12.30 and 15-18, free admission                                                                   Nelson Mandela Forum (ex Palasport), viale
36, tel. 055.294883 /23575, until January                                                           Kenya 2003
                                                  Gregorio Magno ritrovato... sotto le              Photos by Beatrice Larco                        Pasquale Paoli, tel. 055.678841, www.
15 2006, Mon 14-19, Tues, Thur 8.30-              righe                                                                                             mandelaforum.it, March 13, 2006
19, Wed, Fri, Sun 8.30-14, € 4, www.                                                                Caffè ChiaroScuro, via del Corso 36r, until
                                                  Biblioteca Riccardiana, via Ginori 10, tel.       December 1, 8-21
firenzemusei.it/archeologica                       055.212586, until December 16, Mon,                                                               & show
“Jazz in Paint” by Giuseppe Giliberto             Thurs, 9-13, 15-17, Tues, Wed, Fri 9-13           n GUIDED TOURS                                  CHILDREN
Caruso Jazz Café, via Lambertesca 16r, tel.
055.281940, www.carusojazzcafe.com,
                                                  Tapestries of Faith and War
                                                  Palazzo Pazzi Ammannati, Borgo Albizi 28,
                                                                                                    Artisans of the Oltrarno, in search of          n CINEMA
                                                                                                    artistic craftsmanship
10:00-16:00 and 18:00-20:00                       tel. 055.240277, until December 4, 10-13,         A tour designed for those who want to           Duma
Splendors of Chianti: the Madonnas                15-19, € 4/2                                      discover and bring home the artisan heart       Workshops, readings and entertainment at
of Chianti and Casale                                                                               of Florence, savouring the genuine and          16.00. Screening at 17.00
                                                  Cow Parade                                                                                        Istituto Stensen, viale Don Minzoni 25/a,
Galleria degli Uffizi, until December 8, 10-       All around the town, info 055.203971,             finest of Florentine artisan traditions.
13, 15-18                                                                                           Until December 24, Info 055.3036108,            tel. 055.576551, www.stensen.org,
                                                  www.cowparade.it, until January 20 2006                                                           November 20, €6/3.5
                                                                                                    www.firenze-oltrarno.net
                                                                          What’s on & Where to Go                                                                                      13
www.theflorentine.net                                                                                                                                          Thursday 17 November 2005



                                                                                       Events in FLORENCE                                                    NOV 18 TO DEC 1
Kirikù e la strega Karabà                    Treasures of Ancient Art                        On the Tracks of Matilde di Canossa               Organic product market
Workshops, readings and entertainment at     Villa Medicea, Cerreto Guidi, tel.              From Prato to Fossato: food and wine              Piazza Matteotti Greve in Chianti, Sun only
16.00. Screening at 17.00.                   0571.55707, www.comune.cerreto-guidi.           tasting, entertainment                            Second-Hand and Vintage Market
Istituto Stensen, viale Don Minzoni 25/a,    fi.it, until December                            Info and booking 335.5312981 or                   Ass.Poid Pois, via S.Chiara 38/1, Prato,
tel. 055.576551, www.stensen.org,            “Aliart” by Giuliano Fazzari                    0574.562076                                       Sun only from 10.15
November 27, €6/3.5                          Galleria d’arte di Alliart, via Morrocchesi     Villa Medicea dell’Ambrogiana                     Extra Virgin Oil Fair of Reggello and
n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES                        13/15, San Casciano Val di Pesa, until July
                                             26 2006, Tues-Fri 15.30-19, Sat-San 10-
                                                                                             Montelupo Fiorentino, booking on
                                                                                             0571.518993, Nov 19, 15.30, free
                                                                                                                                               Pratomagno
Children play with the elements of                                                                                                             Reggello center
                                             12 and 15.30-19, Mon closed                     Cappella della Sacra Cintola and
nature: air, earth, fire, water                                                                                                                 Vinsanto d.o.c. Fair
Ludoteca La Prua, via della Sala 2/I, tel.   Jeans!                                          Intercapedine del Duomo                           Centro per la cultura del Vino, I Lecci,
055.315173 , until December 22 in the        The origins, the American legend and            Piazza del Duomo, Prato, booking                  Montespertoli, tel. 0571.657579, Sun only
afternoon                                    made in Italy                                   335.5312904, Nov 20. 15.30
                                             Museo del Tessuto, via Santa Chiara                                                               Christmas Market
Games & activities for children              24, Prato, tel. 0574.611503, www.               n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                             San Godenzo, Sun only
Learn by playing and play by learning        museodeltessuto.it, until November 30, 10-                                                        Gourmet tasting dinner/weekend
Ludoteca La Prua, via della Sala 2/I, tel.                                                       Week-end of November 19-20
                                             18, Sat 10-14, Sun 16-19, Tues closed                                                             Culinary event hosted by Tenuta Corini
055.315173, until December 22, every Sat                                                     XXXV Truffle Fair                                  Hotel Vannucci, Via Vanni 1, Citta’ della
afternoon                                    History of Coccio. Archaeological               Exhibit, fairs, markets, tastings and a lot
                                             Emergencies in Castelfiorentino                                                                    Pieve, Umbria, tel: 0578-298-063. Dinner
International workshop for children:                                                         more!                                             November 19, weekend hotel package
                                             Raccolta Comunale d’arte, Castel                San Miniato city center, all day, info &
“Fiabe da Cuzco”                             Fiorentino, tel. 0571.64019, until                                                                available to event guests
Readings and entertainment by Miryan                                                         detailed program tel. 0571.42745-418739,
Altamirano Valle
                                             November 30                                     www.cittadisanminiato.it                          n MUSIC & CONCERTS
La Mongolfiera, ex Gasometro, via             The Madonnas of Chianti: journeys of            Fiera Arcobaleni - Organic Product                Chamber music concert
dell’Anconella 3, tel. 055.2767124,          art, history and devotion                       Market                                            Duo Mirò, flute and guitar
November 19, 16.30                           Museo di arte sacra, Greve in Chianti, tel.     Piazza IV Novembre, Sesto Fiorentino, only        Chiesa di San Lorenzo, Vicchio
                                             055.8545215, www.comune.greve-in-               Sat                                               di Rimaggio, Bagno a Ripoli, tel.
International workshop for children:         chianti.fi.it, until December 8
“Yacouban, un griot racconta l’Africa”                                                       10th White Truffle Fair                            055.630631, November 25, 21.15, free
Tales and entertainment by A. di Pietro e    The Madonnas of Chianti: journeys of            Villa Pecori Girali, Borgo San Lorenzo            admittance
Y. Dembelé                                   art, history and devotion                                                                         Irish and Scottish ballads
                                             Museo della Basilica di S. Maria,               10th Oil Fair
La Mongolfiera, ex Gasometro, via                                                             Calenzano city center, Nov 19-27                  Jack and Joe Theatre, via Pablo Picasso 9,
dell’Anconella 3, tel. 055.2767124,          Impruneta, tel. 055.2036426, www.                                                                 Cerbaia San Casciano, tel. 055.826022,
November 26, 16.30                           comune.impruneta.fi.it, until December 8         Prim’Olio 2005                                    November 19, 22.00
                                             The Madonnas of Chianti: journeys of            Exhibit and fair of extra virgin olive oil and
n THEATRE                                    art, history and devotion                       typical products from Bagno a Ripoli hills        Elixir
                                                                                                                                               Kellerplatz, via Migliorati 7, S. Francesco,
Il Gatto con gli Stivali                     Museo di arte sacra, Tavernelle Val di          Antico Spedale del Bigallo, Bagno a Ripoli,
                                                                                             info 055.63901, www.comune.bagno-a-               Prato, tel. 0574.41364, November 19,
Children 5 and older                         Pesa, tel. 055.8050833, www.comune.                                                               22.30
Teatro Moderno ARCI, Via Gramsci 5,          tavarnelle-val-di-pesa.fi.it, until December 8   ripoli.fi.it, Sat afternoon and Sun all day
Tavarnuzze, tel. 333.7128510, www.                                                           Kaos                                              Perturbazione
                                             “Works and Dazs in Marradi” by                                                                    Anomalia Club, via Dino Campana 58, S.
vieniteloracconto.it, November 20 and 27,    Lanfranco Raparo                                Flea market of over 50 stalls ranging from
17.00                                                                                        cheap & chic second hand clothes and              Lucia Prato, tel. 347.1873223, Nov 19
                                             Paitings
La gabbianella, il gatto e altre storie      Centro Studi Dino Campana, Marradi, tel.        accessories to a variety of handicrafts           Tony Martin Band
Teatro Cantiere Florida, via Pisana 111r,    055.8045170, www.comune.marradi.fi.it,           made by skilled amateur designers                 Hits of the Black Sabbath by their ex-
tel. 055.573857, www.elsinor.it, November    until December 23                               Montelupo Fiorentino city center, Sun only,       vocalist
20, 16.30, €5/7                                                                              9-19                                              Ministry, via Pulicciano 53, c/o CRC
                                             Scenes of Prato                                                                                   Antella, Bagno a Ripoli, tel. 338.6314824,
Cenerentola                                  Photographs by Ottavio Celestino                Craft and Antique Market
                                                                                             Piazza Boccaccio Certaldo, Sun only, from         Nov 19, 22.00
As part of UNICEF Day                        Officina Giovani, Cantieri Culturali
Teatro Cantiere Florida, via Pisana 111r,    Ex Macelli, piazza Macelli, Prato, tel.         9.00                                              Contempoartensemble
tel. 055.573857, www.elsinor.it, November    0574.616753, www.officinagiovani.it, until       Craft, Antique and Second-Hand                    Auditorium del Museo Pecci, v.le della
27, 16.30, €8                                November 26                                     Market                                            Repubblica 277, Prato, tel. 0574.608501,
                                                                                             Dicomano historical center, Sun only              Nov 21, 21.00
Storie col cappuccio                         “Home One” by Rake Sverrisdotti
C.R.C. Antella, via di Pulicciano 53/b,      Spazio Polissena, via S. Agostino 16,           Bread, Oil and White Truffle Fair                  Javier Torres Maldonado and guests
Bagno a Ripoli, tel. 055-210804,             Prato, tel. 0574.26115, until-December 14,      Montespertoli                                     – strings, piano and accordion
November 19                                  Mon-Wed 12-22, Thur-Sat 12-1.00                                                                   Teatro Magnolfi, via Gobetti 79, Prato, tel.
                                                                                             Extra Virgin Oil Fair of Reggello and             0574.608501, Nov 24, 21.00
Giragiocamondo                               Paul Jenkins’ Works 1954-2003                   Pratomagno
Sala Teatro Il Momento, via del Giglio       Galleria Open Art, viale della Repubblica       Reggello center                                   Gabriele Carcano, pianoforte
59, Empoli, tel. 0571.81629/83758,           24, Prato, tel. 0574 538003, until January                                                        Conservatorio di San Niccolò, piazza
                                                                                             Festa di Santa Cecilia                            Cardinal S. Niccolò 6, Prato, tel. 0574-
November 20, 17.00, €3.50                    31 2006, 10.30–12.30, 16–20, Mon, Sun           Historical parade
                                             closed.                                                                                           35621, www.pratoconcerti.it, Nov 25,
Quanti belli colori                                                                          Galciana, Prato, tel. 0574.812340                 21.00
Sala Teatro Il Momento, via del Giglio       “Incontroluce” by G. Lombardini                 Antique and Handicraft Market
59, Empoli, tel. 0571.81629/83758,           Cassero Medievale, v.le Piave Prato, tel.                                                         Suzy Q
                                                                                             Piazza Boccaccio, Certaldo, Sun only              Kellerplatz, via Migliorati 7, S. Francesco,
November 27, 17.00, €3.50                    0574.26693, until November 26
                                                                                                 Week-end of November 26-27                    Prato, tel. 0574.41364, November 25,
La storia di Prezzemolina                    Italian Beauty – Transformation of                                                                22.30
Puppet show                                  modern design                                   XXXV Truffle Fair
C.R.C. Antella, via di Pulicciano 53/b,      Centro Arte e Design, via Vittorio Emanuele     Exhibit, fairs, markets, tastings and a lot       Eugenio Finardi “Anima in Blues Tour”
Bagno a Ripoli, tel. 055.210804,             32, Cadenzano, tel. 055.888191, until           more!                                             Anomalia Club, via Dino Campana 58, S.
November 26                                  Nov 25                                          San Miniato city center, all day, info &          Lucia Prato, tel. 347.1873223, Nov 26,
                                                                                             detailed program tel. 0571.42745-418739,          22.30
I musicanti di Brema                         “La più bella sei tu” Photographs by
Text by Grimm                                F. Patellani                                    www.cittadisanminiato.it                          Overload
Piccolo Teatro di Rufina, piazza Umberto I    Antiche Stanze di Santa Caterina via Dolce      Bread and Oil at the Press                        Kellerplatz, via Migliorati 7, S. Francesco,
46, Rufina, tel. 055.8396533, November        dei Mazzamuti, 1 Prato, tel. 0574.33240,        Associazione Nazionale Città dell’Olio,           Prato, tel. 0574.41364, November 26,
29, 10.00                                    until Dec 3                                     Villa Parigini Strada di Basciano 22,             22.30
Il sogno di Tartaruga                        Leonetto Tintori and the Vainella               Monteriggioni (Si), tel 0577.329109, fax          Contempopratofestival
Accademia Cinema Via Montanelli, 33          School                                          0577 326042, http://www.cittadellolio.it,         20th century music performed by the
Pontassieve, tel. 055.8316437, Dec 1,        Museo di Pittura Murale, piazza S.              e-mail: info@cittadellolio.it ; for event dates   soloists of the Contempoartensemble
17.00                                        Domenico, Prato, tel. 0574.440501,              and ifo.                                          Officina Giovani - Cantieri Ex Macelli,
                                             November 19-March 4 2006, €3                    Fiera Arcobaleni - Organic Product                piazza Macelli 4, Prato, tel. 0574.616753,
& show                                                                                                                                         www.officinagiovani.it, Nov 29, 21.00
OUT OF TOWN                                  n GUIDED TOURS                                  Market
                                                                                             Piazza IV Novembre, Sesto Fiorentino, tel.        Christmas Concert for Choir,
                                             On the Scaffolding with Filippo Lippi           055.4496357, only Sat                             Orchestra and Organ
n DANCE                                      Visits to the restoration of Filippo Lippi’s    Prim’Olio 2005                                    Pieve di San Leonardo, Cerreto Guidi, tel.
SpreadingOut / Dif-fusione poetica           fresco in Santo Stefano Cathedral, Prato.       Exhibit and fair of extra virgin olive oil and    0571.55671, Nov 25
Dance and poetry                             (max 12 persons)
Palazzo Pretorio, Chiesa di SS. Tommaso e    Cattedrale di Santo Stefano, piazza del
                                                                                             typical products from Bagno a Ripoli hills
                                                                                             Guided tours to farms starting from Piazza
                                                                                                                                               n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES
Prospero, Certaldo Alto, tel. 055.350986,    Duomo, Prato, tel. 0574.24112, www.             Peruzzi, Antella - Bagno a Ripoli, info           Empoli – Lazio
Nov 20, 16.30, free admittance               restaurofilippolippi.it, by reservation only,    055.63901, www.comune.bagno-a-ripoli.fi.it         Series A soccer match
                                             until December 31, Sat at 10, 11, 16, 17,                                                         Stadio Castellani, viale delle Olimpiadi,
n EXHIBITS                                   Sun at 10, 11, €8                               New Oil Fair                                      Empoli, tel. 0571.72212, Nov 27, 15.00
Reflections of a Gallery. Paintings of                                                        Villa Medicea di Lilliano, Bagno a Ripoli,
                                             Abbey of San Salvatore and San                  from 10.00                                        4th Palio Fiorentino
the Bardini family                           Lorenzo a Settimo                                                                                 12.6km and 6.3 km footrace open to
Villa Medicea, piazza Umberto I, Cerreto     Scandicci, until December 30, Wed 10-12,        New Oil and Fall Flavours Fair                    everyone. Special training for Firenze
Guidi, tel. 0571.55707, www.comune.          Sun 15.30-18                                    Piazza Buondelmonti, Impruneta                    Marathon.
cerreto-guidi.fi.it, until December                                                           Antique Fair                                      Meeting point: at 8.00 at the Circolo di
                                             The Ceramics of Montelupo
Arte in maremma nella prima meta’            Free guided visits to the Archaeology and       Piazza Matteotti, Scandicci                       Colonnata, Sesto Fiorentino. Start at
del novecento                                Ceramics Museum and participation in the        Exchange Mart of Ancient Toys                     9.30. Info and enrolment: 338.7600326 /
Different palaces and museums in             workshops                                       Centro Congressi Delta Florence, via              055.4481857, November 20
Grosseto, November 26-January 29 2006,       Museo archeologico e della ceramica,            Vittorio Emanuele 11, Cadenzano, tel.
info tel. tel.0577.233536, 10-13, 15-18,     Montelupo Fiorentino, tel. 0571.518993,         055.882041, Sun only, from 10.00, free
Mon. closed, €2/4                            until December, on Thurs, 10-14                 admittance
14
Thursday 17 November 2005                                                                                                                 www.theflorentine.net



  UP CLOSE & PERSONAL

 Caffè Americano
 in Florence
     “ I like
       living in the
       middle of                                                                                                         Macchina da Caffè “LA MARZOCCO”


       history. ”                                                               The Florentine: How did La Mar-
                                                                                zocco start?
                                                                                                                        he wanted to see the company con-
                                                                                                                        tinue as a company here in Tuscany,
                                                                                                                        and he wanted the name Marzocco
                                                                                Ron Cook:     The company was           continued. So Kent put together
        Interview with:                                                         founded in 1927 by two brothers,        a group of investors, most of them
        RON COOK                                                                the Bambi brothers. It was down
                                                                                in Le Cure area at that point, and
                                                                                                                        from the U.S., and bought the vast
                                                                                                                        majority of the company in 1994.
        by Carla Rossi                                                          in 1959 they needed to expand so
                                                                                they moved up here and built this
                                                                                                                        There was a written agreement, and
                                                                                                                        there was also a handshake agree-
                                                                                factory.                                ment that we would keep a factory
                                                                                                                        in Tuscany and it would have prec-
                                                                                TF: When was the company                edence over any other assembly
                                                                                bought by American investors?           point that we would build, that the


A
                                                                                                                        name would remain Marzocco, and
      n interview with Ron Cook, American president of the historic
                                                                                RC: What happened was that in the       that we would provide for everybody
      Florentine espresso machine company La Marzocco.
                                                                                early to mid 90s, Starbucks started     who was here as long as we could.
                                                                                buying a substantial number of our      In other words, not to buy it, take
Ron Cook is always excited to talk about the company he runs, and on
                                                                                machines and started expanding.         the name, get the technology…and
a recent warm fall day, while he fiddled with the latest deluxe Marzocco
                                                                                We were the only, and still are the     go to the States. And we absolutely
espresso machine model GB/5 (that after a lot of grinding and whirring
                                                                                only, traditional espresso machines     respected that. You know, at first
ultimately produced two superb espressos), Mr. Cook recounted the story
                                                                                that they use in their stores. And      there was a huge sale of machines
behind the American acquisition of this local Florentine institution, as well
                                                                                about 1993, Kent Bakke (who is          to Starbucks. Then they started
as his own experiences as an expatriate here in Florence.
                                                                                an American and was already the         going to fully automatic machines
                                                                                importer for Marzocco in the U.S. for   just because they can’t train enough
About 15 minutes up Via Bolognese, overlooking the city of Florence, is the
                                                                                about 10 to 15 years before) came to    baristas to make a good coffee….
La Marzocco espresso machine factory. First founded in 1927, it is still in
                                                                                Piero and said, “Look, this company     When the demand started to
operation today, making some of the highest quality espresso machines the
                                                                                Starbucks is growing and they really    decrease, we had to do something,
world over. It has even become the exclusive supplier of traditional espresso
                                                                                like our machines and we’re going       so we closed the factory in Seattle.
machines for the largest coffee shop chain, Starbucks. And although this
                                                                                to need a lot more machines than        Basically we kept this one.
historic Florentine company has maintained its production entirely at its
                                                                                you’re giving us.” And Piero said, “I
original factory on a hill perched above the city, it is no longer the family
                                                                                can’t make them here, you’re going      TF: So now it’s an entirely Ameri-
run business it once was. In fact, just over ten years ago it was bought out
                                                                                to have to set up an assembly plant     can operated company?
entirely by a group of mostly American associates. But upon acquisition,
                                                                                in Seattle, and, by the way, you have
the new owners promised to keep production local, as well as to maintain
                                                                                to buy the company.” That’s sort of     RC: I came here in 1995 as the
the traditional high quality of the company’s products.
                                                                                paraphrased I’m sure, but basically     general manager. About 3 years ago
                                                                                he is the last member of the family.    I was made president of the com-
                                                                                He doesn’t have any children. And       pany. We didn’t come in like many




                                             SCULPTURES IN A WOODLAND
                                                Just an hour’s drive from Florence and you’ll be
                                            surrounded by natural beauty and contemporary art.
                                           The Chianti Sculpture Park which was opened one year
                                               ago is the ideal venue for family and school trips.
                                                      “The highlight of our visit to Tuscany”                             address: La Fornace 48/49
                                                            is what most visitors say.                                  53010 Pievasciata (Siena) Italy
                                              To find out more about the Park and for directions                          phone: (0039) 0577 357151
                                                                   please click                                             fax (0039) 0577 357149
                                                                                                                        email: info@chiantisculpturepark.it
                                                           www.chiantisculpturepark.it
                                                                                                                          GPS address: lat. 11°22' 53''
                                             Opposite the Park you’ll find the largest art gallery in Italy,                   long. 43° 23' 36''
  "Energy" by K. Varotsos, Greece                    specialised in contemporary sculptures.
                                                                                                                                                                        15
www.theflorentine.net                                                                                                                              Thursday 17 November 2005



                                                                                                      UP CLOSE & PERSONAL
American companies would and just              excel as they are in the American          TF: How about with the Ital-               So there are these Colonels and
say, “this is how it’s done; we’re tak-        system, especially in Manhattan pri-       ian community, where have you              Majors taking me around and one of
ing over.” We did everything possible          vate schools. But I think Charlie will     found your connecting point?               them opens a door, saying, “Don’t
to make sure that we were consider-            have a lot more than a lot of those                                                   go down there because it’s danger-
ate of those who were here and who             kids. He’ll be trilingual, he’s getting    RC: Through the school. The Inter-         ous, but look at the tunnel at the bot-
had been working here for a long               a good education, and I think he’ll        national school is a third American,       tom there.” Two or three flights down
time, so we could ensure that they             just be a more well rounded person.        a third Italian, and a third other cul-    there’s this tunnel, which is a tun-
kept their jobs, so we could help              Extracurricular activities are limited.    tures. Charlie has a lot of friends who    nel that goes from the Uffizi, under
them fit into, to the best of their abili-      But Charlie plays tennis; he’s done        are Italian. He’s one of the few kids      the mountain, all the way up to the
ties, the pattern of growth we wanted          some rowing at the Canottieri. There       who gets invited to the Italian kids’      Forte di Belvedere. It was an escape
to see. In ten years, we haven’t fired          aren’t as many activities going on         functions because he is bilingual.         route to the Fortezza. Most people
anybody, we haven’t lost anyone.               here…the other side of that coin is        We also know people in the neigh-          don’t even know it’s there, but I’ve
We have one or two that have retired           that kids in the States are pressured      bourhood who we walk dogs with.            seen it. You know, you go to dinner
and one or two that are approaching            to do too many things.                     Italians, and Florentines especially,      in someone’s house and it’s in an
retirement, but we just make a point                                                      tend to socialise with the kids they       old palazzo where something that’s
of helping them fit in. We respect              TF: Do you have any advice for             went to kindergarten with, but that’s      part of history happened…. Or to
a quality way of doing business, the           American parents here?                     fine, we’re not looking to break into       be able to go down into the Medici
quality of the machinery, and taking                                                      anything. If you want a relationship       Chapels and to the little place where
care of the people who work here.              RC: I think it’s tough for families who    with Italian families you can do it, but   Michelangelo’s sketches are on the
                                               are here for only 2 or 3 years because     it’s tougher.                              walls. That’s very special to me. That,
TF: You live here full time?                   it’s hard to break in. You don’t get                                                  and the countryside is beautiful, and
                                               involved with the culture. There are       TF: What do you like about living          the food is wonderful.
RC: I’ve been here for ten years.              a number of clubs – soccer is obvi-        in Florence?
Sono in regola. Permesso di Sog-               ously the big thing. There’s rugby,                                                   TF: What are some of your favou-
giorno.                                        and tennis, and…biking. There’s            RC: I like living in the middle of his-    rite spots?
                                               plenty of stuff to do if you just search   tory. If you live in town, it’s in your
TF: What do you think of living                it out. Hiking. 15 minutes up the Via      face every day. It’s incredible. I was     RC: The Medici Chapel, San Marco,
here in Florence?                              Bolognese you’re in the Apennines,         on the board of the school and we          the Bargello. La Marzocco comes
                                               and there are a ton of trails through      were looking for a second campus,          from Il Marzocco, and the original
RC: Ho trovato l’America in Italia.            here. Get back to your basics. Father      and one of the places that we looked       statue is in the Bargello, the one by
[I’ve found America in Italy]. We’re           and mother hiking too.                     at was on Costa San Giorgio. There         Donatello. I stay away from the Uffizi
very comfortable living here, and,                                                        was a military school there, which         because of the crowds.
having lived outside of the U.S. for           You could take a field trip every           backed up on the Boboli Gardens….
ten years, I think it would be a chal-         weekend or you could get on Rya-
lenge to go back.                              nair and go to Paris; you could go to
                                               London. There are a ton of capital cit-
TF: So you plan on staying?                    ies to go visit, and two or three years
                                               isn’t enough to touch them. There’s
RC: This is home. We owe it to                 plenty to do, it’s just different.
our son, who is 15. We moved here
when he was 5. We owe it to him to             TF: What are some of the focal
stay in one place.                             points of the American commu-
                                               nity here?
TF: Are you happy raising your
child here? How are the facilities             RC: I think the biggest two are the
and schools?                                   American school and the American
                                               church. Then you’ve got Network
RC: Yes. We come from Manhat-                  and the Tuscan American Asso-
tan where the private schools are              ciation. We were very involved with
better, best, and somewhere above              our church in New York, which hap-
there. And international schools in            pened to be Episcopal and named
general have to cater to a broader             St. James. I knew that we needed
range of students. But I think there’s         anchors when we got here and that
a more well rounded education                  the American church was going to
here. Students aren’t as driven to             have to be one of them.



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16                                                                           Life in Italy
Thursday 17 November 2005                                                                                                                                         www.theflorentine.net
                                                         All of the articles found in the following pages are written by independent collaborators. The Florentine seeks to publish



  Culture & CUSTOMS
                                                         stories that are interesting, entertaining, and useful to all of our readers. If and when a writer expresses opinions within his
                                                         or her work those opinions should be considered to be those of the writer and not necessarily those of the publishers of this
                                                         newspaper. If you wish to submit articles for consideration please contact us at redazione@theflorentine.net.




     ITALIAN VOICES: A Window on Language and
     Customs in Italy...“Prego”                                      by Linda Falcone

                                                                                                                                                     “There are some
                                                                                                                                                      words that travelers
                                                                                                                                                      should keep safely
                                                                                                                                                      jingling in their

I                                                                                                                                                     pockets at all times.
    f the Italian language
    is a locked door that
    you’re still struggling                                                                                                                           Some words are
to open, then I’ve come
to bring you the key. No                                                                                                                              like spare change
matter how many subjunc-                                                                                                                              that can be easily
tive verbs your language
teachers want to fill your                                                                                                                             spent in tight times.
brains with, all you really
need to get by in this coun-
                                                                                                                                                      Prego is one of those
try is a whole lot of prego.                                                                                                                          words. It opens all
There are some words in
the world that carry their                                                                                                                            doors.”
weight in gold. There are
some words that travelers
should keep safely jingling
in their pockets at all times. Some     “can I help you?” or “what can I do           at the grocery store, and you mean                  those planning on staying in Italy
words are like spare change that can    for you?” It’s the invitation to ask          “feel free to go ahead of me since                  for a long time.
be easily spent in tight times. Prego   for what you need. It’s your chance           you are only buying milk.” Say it                      Aren’t you happy to have such a
is one of those words. It opens all     to become that demanding client               after someone profusely thanks you,                 lightweight, no fuss, highly practical
doors. And in Italy, you’ll find it      that Italian shop-owners love so              and you will mean “you’re welcome”                  word to tote around the peninsula?
everywhere except ladled over your      well. When expressed as an affir-              or “cheers”. Say it when someone’s                  It doesn’t take long to love a lan-
pasta. Prego is the multipurpose        mation, prego grants permission.              mumbling or speaking too fast, and                  guage in which one word can mean
solution to every language need.        It means “of course” or “certainly”           you will mean “I can’t hear” or “I                  so much. And it’s good to love a lan-
Just what does it mean? Well, every-    or “be my guest”. “May I come in?”            beg your pardon?” Prego can also                    guage that you have to work so hard
thing, actually.                        Prego. “Do you mind if I open this            imply elegant disbelief or subtle non               for. For many frustrated English
   Spend a week or two in Italy and     window?” Prego. Thus, an initial              - conformity, and it is a favourite                 speakers learning Italian remains
you’ll see. Prego implies service-      exchange in a shop might sound                power word for all age groups.                      a quasi-mystical process, a journey
able attention, it commands respect,    something like this. “Prego?”                    Add the object pronoun ti to                     through the dark forest of linguistic
and it encourages people to either         “Posso dare un’occhiata? Can I             prego, and you will drastically                     confusion. If you are one of them, a
wake up or speak up. Bread-selling      have a look around?”                          enhance your communication abili-                   word like prego is like the sun shin-
ladies in their crisp candy-striped        “Prego!”                                   ties. With ti prego, you’ll find a pleth-            ing through the trees. Or perhaps
uniforms will shout it at you from         In more informal situations,               ora of essential idioms suddenly on                 I’m being too dramatic. Perhaps the
behind mounds of soft focaccia.         prego is often accompanied by props           the tip of your eager tongue. Put                   Italian habit of adding poetry to the
Harried postal workers will bark it     or gestures that modify its meaning.          your hands in front of your chest in                most banal word stew has seeped
at you from behind their protective     When accompanying wine and water              the praying position, and you sud-                  into my cells. If so, ti prego, humor
Plexiglas shields. Newfound friends     or wooden plates of antipasti, prego          denly have “I beg of you” or “have                  me. Because we really are talk-
will shower you with prego as a sign    means “help yourself”. When uttered           mercy.” Roll your eyes and toss your                ing about a magical word. It’s not
of their dutiful affection.             alongside an empty chair, it becomes          head, and ti prego becomes “Give                    just “please.” It also means “you’re
   When expressed as a question         “please have a seat”. Say prego to an         me a break, will you?” All very use-                welcome,” and almost everything in
in shops and markets, prego means       older lady when you are in a line             ful expressions, I might add, for                   between.
                                                                            Life in Italy                                                                                  17
www.theflorentine.net                                                                                                                              Thursday 17 November 2005



                                                                                                             Culture & CUSTOMS
Italian Politics for Dummies
“An Irreverent Glance into Government”                                                                                      By Bob Nordvall
                                                                                    coalition, whose leaders don’t like           equivalent to a soccer riot.
                                                                 Mr. Berlusconi     the fact that they are playing second
                                                                                                                                     Many Italians are passionate
                                                                                    fiddle to the head of the coalition,
                                                                                                                                  about politics and can discuss the
                                                                                    who gets to speak in his own voice
                                                                                                                                  issues in a sophisticated, if endless,
                                                                                    on the evening news. The result
                                                                                                                                  fashion. It turns out, however, that
                                                                                    of these fights is that the coalitions
                                                                                                                                  few Italians think that the party they
                                                                                    seem to be (but are not) in constant
                                                                                                                                  support can really achieve much
                                                                                    danger of immediate dissolution.
                                                                                                                                  good. Instead, the best that is hoped
                                                                                       When there is a situation that             for is that their party will prevent
                                                                                    necessitates something be done,               the other parties from doing bad.
                                                                                    in which lack of action is totally            Italians see themselves as a nation
                                                                                    unacceptable, there will be reports           of honest (forget about the paying
                                                                                    of a stalemate that is impossible to          taxes problem), decent folks ruled
                                                                                    resolve. A national crisis is immi-           by dishonest politicians who are
                                                                                    nent. At the 11th hour (never sooner),        interested only in power and fill-
                                                                                    a compromise will be forged that is           ing their own pockets. The maxim
                                                                                    inadequate to resolve the problem             “People get the kind of politics they
                                                                                    but which will delay the crisis until         deserve” holds no validity in Italy.
                       Mr. Prodi
                                                                                    a later date. Often the issue is gov-
                                                                                                                                     As in other nations, the strength


F
                                                                                    ernment finances (too little income;
      or those of us coming from         Silvio’s coalition. In fact, the guy                                                     of the various parties differs in
                                                                                    too many expenses) because in Italy
      countries with a two-party         who heads the neo-Fascist party                                                          Italy by region. Tuscany leans to
                                                                                    anyone who pays all his taxes vol-
      (maybe 2 ½ ) system, Italian       seems to be the most leftist of those                                                    the left, so be sure to make a bad
                                                                                    untarily risks being committed to a
politics seems a hopeless confu-         in the centre-right coalition. Go                                                        face whenever Berlusconi’s name is
                                                                                    mental institution.
sion. You can try diligently to learn    figure!                                                                                   mentioned. It’s too much trouble
all the names, principles, symbols,                                                    For the centre-left, the next best         to learn the political inclinations
and faces of the endless parade of          On the news at night all the            thing to a day at the beach is a mass         of other regions. When not in Tus-
political parties, or you can aspire     various party leaders get their mugs       demonstration in the streets. For             cany, stay totally neutral.
to a “quick and dirty” understand-       shown, but in a 30 minute broadcast,       the centre-right such rallies are
ing that tells you enough to function    there is not enough time to let them
as a foreigner in Italy. Here it is.     all talk and talk and talk. So we
                                         hear Silvio, Romano, and maybe one
   Forget about learning the names       or two others (if you are ambitious,
of parties. There are two grand coali-   you can learn their names too) say
tions: the centre-right (CDL), led by    a few words. Then we see footage
Silvio Berlusconi and currently in       of each of the others yakking into
the majority, and the centre-left (l’    a microphone, but we only hear the
Unione) led, at least for this week,     announcer’s summary of what they
by Romano Prodi. You do need             say. You don’t have to pay attention                                                �����������������������������������������������
                                                                                                                                      ������������������������
to learn these two faces. Silvio is      to the guys (few women at the top
called the Cavaliere; Romano is          of Italian politics) whose views are
called the Professor. When Silvio        delivered second-hand.
talks about his opponents, he calls
                                            There are two kinds of politi-
them all Communists even though
                                         cal battles amongst the parties. The
the Communist party is only a small
                                         first ones are between the centre-
player in the centre-left coalition.
                                         right and centre-left coalitions,
Romano is a little more polite with
                                         which never agree on anything. The
his vocabulary, but when centre-left
                                         result is that politics are paralysed,
folks get upset, they call the other
                                         and little meaningful change takes
side Fascist, even though the suc-
                                         place. The second type of struggle
cessor to the Fascist party is only
                                         is amongst the parties within each
one, and not the largest, party in
                                                                                       Workshop, Show Rooms and classes

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18                                                                               Life in Italy
Thursday 17 November 2005                                                                                                                                           www.theflorentine.net



  Culture & CUSTOMS
The Florentine’s
Things You Need to Know
(That Italians Assume You Already Do Know, Should Know, and Are Stupid for Not Knowing)

By Adriana Varela

                                                           7 A Load of Trouble
                                                           Doing a load of laundry can be a 24 hour ordeal:
                                                           the washing machine takes 2 hours, and there are

10 The Price of Leisure                                                                                                     3 Ready, set, shop!
                                                           no dryers, so line drying takes all night. Then, of
                                                           course, you have to iron your clothes once they’re
You’ve just finished your morning cappuccino at             dry. So plan your outfits accordingly...
                                                                                                                            It’s Monday afternoon and you’re in the centre
a quaint café near the Ponte Vecchio, you go to
pay for it and are shocked to discover that you’ve
been charged 5 Euro. No, they’re not ripping you
                                                           6 Strike This!
                                                           It’s Tuesday afternoon and you’ve been waiting
                                                                                                                            ready to shop when you see that most of the
                                                                                                                            shops are closed! Many shops close Monday and
                                                                                                                            Saturday afternoons for inventory (and of course
off. Sitting down and drinking (or eating) any-            for the bus for what feels like years...what’s up?               most are closed Sundays). Generally they’re open
thing at a table will cost you three times as much         Sciopero! It’s probably a bus strike. People in                  from 9am to 1pm and then reopen from 3:30pm
as having it at the bar. So next time, do it like          Italy love to strike, whether they be bankers, rub-              to 7:30pm.
the Italians do, order and drink your coffee at

                                                                                                                            2 Tipsy?
                                                           bish collectors, students, teachers or anyone else
the bar.                                                   you need on any given day. Strikes happen often

9 Red Tape ‘Til You’re Blue in the Face
                                                           and are a huge inconvenience. Check out www.
                                                           ataf.net and www.trenitalia.com for the latest on                Most restaurants in Italy charge coperto for each
                                                           bus and train strikes... that way you won’t be left              person at the table, so technically you’re not
All that you’ve heard about Italian bureaucracy                                                                             expected to leave a tip. But if you’ve enjoyed your
is true. It takes ages (and unlimited patience) to         stranded again.
                                                                                                                            meal and the service, it’s considered polite to
get anything done. Be prepared to stand in lines,
ask questions that no one wants to answer for
you, be put on hold forever when you call, and
                                                           5 Lonely Ladies Travel Better
                                                           If you call a cab to pick you up, don’t be surprised
                                                                                                                            leave something (about 60 centesimi per person).


make at least 2 trips to an office to complete any
paperwork necessary. All of this for something as
                                                           to find that the meter is already running, there’s
                                                           an extra fee for calling and for service at nights               And the NUMBER ONE thing you need
seemingly simple as getting the internet hooked
up in your apartment...
                                                           and on holidays as well. You can always check
                                                           the price list posted if you’re unsure about costs.
                                                                                                                            to know when living in Italy is...
8 Calling All Cars
                                                           Remember, women travelling alone at night are
                                                           entitled to a 10% discount.
As a general rule, parking in Florence is a night-
mare. Street parking is limited, different coloured        4 Big Brother is watching you...                                 1 Ask and You Shall Receive
                                                                                                                            You can always ask for a sconto (discount)
lines mean different things, there’s street cleaning       Or at least your speed on the roads in Florence.                 when you’re purchasing something, whether it’s
to consider, and it’s not cheap either. Your best          There are automatic machines peppering the                       tomatoes at the Central Market in San Lorenzo
bet is to use city-run garages (marked with a blue         roadsides to check your speed. If you exceed the                 or shoes at a pricey boutique. Italians do it all
P) like the ones under Santa Maria Novella or              limit, expect a photographic souvenir to reach                   the time, and you’ll usually be surprised with the
the San Lorenzo Market.                                    your home along with a fine. Until you memorise                   results.
                                                           their locations, watch traffic around you for sud-
                                                           den slowing down.




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                                                                           Life in Italy                                                                       19
www.theflorentine.net                                                                                                                      Thursday 17 November 2005



                                                                                                          Culture & CUSTOMS
In an Unlikely Location, A Jewish Tradition Lives On
Vendors in Saint Peter’s Square Predominantly of Jewish Faith
By Alexandra Salomon
                                                                                                                             were allowed to leave the ghetto and
                                                                                                                             walk about the city for the purpose


A
        s the sun beats down on St.                                                                                          of commerce with a special pass
        Peter’s Square, tourists and                                                                                         granted by the papal authorities.
        pilgrims stand in a long line                                                                                           Rome’s Jewish community was of
waiting to enter Vatican City. Sou-                                                                                          great importance to the Papacy.
venir stands filled with a large selec-                                                                                          “The Papal state wanted to keep
tion of rosaries and other trinkets                                                                                          tight control over the Jewish popula-
surround the imposing square.                                                                                                tion, but at the same time the Church
   “How much?” asks a young                                                                                                  needed the Jews, both for economic
Polish pilgrim, pointing at a rosary.                                                                                        and theological purposes,” Caffiero
   “Five euros,” replies Massimo Di                                                                                          explained. “The street sellers pro-
Porto in stilted English. The young                                                                                          vided competition to the Catho-
woman hesitates.                                                                                                             lic businesses, which had formed
   “Ok, I give you two for five,” offers                                                                                      monopolies. Theologically, the Jews
Di Porto, a bargain. As he walks the                                                                                         [were believed to have] witnessed
streets around the Vatican carrying                                                                                          the death of Christ and they repre-
a tray of crucifixes, papal medal-                                                                                            sented an important group to con-
lions and rosaries around his neck,                                                                                          vert to Catholicism.”
most people would never know that                                                                                               With Italian Unification in 1870,
Di Porto is a Jew. The only thing                                                                                            the Roman ghetto was abolished and
that identifies him as such is his last                                                        Souvenir vendors in Rome       the Jews were made equal citizens.
name which means “from the town                                                                                                 Until the 1920s, selling souvenirs
of Porto.” Many Italian Jewish sur-           “All the vendors know one               But Jewish life in Rome under-         on the streets of Rome required a
names are really just the names of        another. We have grown up together       went a radical change in 1555 when        simple permit. But during the 1930s,
towns and regions in Italy and Di         and we help one another out with         Pope Paul VI, responding to the           as Mussolini’s ties with Hitler grew,
Porto is one of the most common.          the business,” says Di Veroli. Nearly    threat of Protestantism by crack-         so did Italy’s anti-Jewish campaigns.
   Hawking rosaries and papal             half of Italy’s 30,000 Jews live in      ing down on all forms of heresy,          In December of 1938, the Italian
gadgets is a Jewish business in Rome      Rome but, despite its size, the com-     rescinded all privileges enjoyed by       Parliament approved the first “Laws
and around the Vatican.                   munity is extremely cohesive. Like       the Jews and established a ghetto to      for the Defense of the Race,” which
   Thirty-nine-year-old Di Porto          their fellow Roman Jews, the souve-      isolate them from the Christian pop-      forbade Jews from teaching, attend-
grew up in Rome’s largest Jewish          nir vendors see each other at wed-       ulation. Jews were forbidden to own       ing schools and universities, serving
neighborhood, still referred to as        dings and Jewish community events.       shops or property outside the ghetto      in the military or employing non-
“Il Ghetto” because the area once         Their children attend the same           and were not allowed to practice          Jews. The lives of the souvenir ven-
housed the Roman Jewish Ghetto.           schools and their families live in the   most professions.                         dors became increasingly restricted.
   Following in the footsteps of his      same neighborhoods.                         Having little choice in the ghetto,    No new licenses could be obtained
father and his grandfather, Di Porto          Massimo Misano, 54, took over        many Roman Jews made their living         and eventually they were forbidden
began selling religious souvenirs         the souvenir stand once run by           as ambulant vendors, selling used         from practicing their profession.
in front of St. Peter’s Basilica at       his grandmother. For the next few        clothing, fabric and scrap metal.            At the end of World War II, sev-
the age of 19. He is a sturdy man         weeks he will sell rosaries and cru-     According to Marina Caffiero, a his-       eral Jewish families managed to get
whose lined and deeply tanned face        cifixes alongside ceramic statues of      tory professor at Rome’s La Sapienza      their licenses back. No new permits
shows the signs of all the hours he       Michelangelo’s David and tiny plas-      University whose recent book Bat-         have been given out since the war
has spent outdoors carrying his tray      tic models of the colosseum in front     tesimi forzati. Ebrei, Cristiani e Con-   because there is no more public
of keepsakes, working seven days a        of the Trevi Fountain. Then he’ll        vertiti nella Roma dei Papi discusses     space available to be licensed. So
week, all year round, he says.            move his stand over to the Vatican.      the relationship between the Jewish       today, the vendors remain Roman
   Just down the street, Agesilao         An elegant dresser and a member          community and the Papal state.            Jews and the profession continues
Di Veroli, 44, has also been selling      Rome’s Jewish Community Council,         Jewish vendors would also go door         to be passed on within the family,
rosaries and papal key chains along-      Misano isn’t really concerned about      to door, buying and selling sacred        with young men usually learning the
side plastic models of the colosseum      the fact that he sells some tradition-   objects and religious relics. They        business from their fathers, as they
at his souvenir stall for the last 20     ally Catholic objects alongside post-                                              have done for centuries.
years. Like Di Porto, Di Veroli also      cards of Rome.
learned the trade from his grandfa-           “I believe we provide a service to                                                         Souvenir vendors in Rome
ther. As a young boy he couldn’t wait     the tourists who come to the city.
until he was old enough to manage         We offer them a better price than
his own bancarella, his own stand,        the stores. We’re part of the folklore
he says.                                  and our presence gives energy and
   Di Veroli is one of approximately      color to the city’s squares. Without
105 vendors, all of whom are licensed     it, they’d be lifeless,” he says.
to sell souvenirs at stands in front of       Because Rome has been the seat
Rome’s most important monuments           of the Catholic Church for nearly
- and all of whom, except for one,        2,000 years, it is not often associ-
are Jewish. Other ambulant vendors,       ated with Jews. Yet Rome’s Jewish
like Di Porto, carry trays of trinkets    community is the oldest in Europe.
but are not licensed to set up stalls.    Official records suggest that the first
All of these vendors, too, except         Jews arrived in Rome in 168 BCE
for one, are Jewish. Like other Ital-     as part of a diplomatic delegation
ian Jews, some of the vendors are         sent by Judas Maccabeus. Under the
observant, though many are not.           rule of Julius Caesar, the Jews were
Most passersby and many Italians          allowed to freely observe their reli-
would never know that Di Veroli is        gion and, overall, the community
Jewish.                                   flourished.
20                                                                        Life in Italy
Thursday 17 November 2005                                                                                                                                    www.theflorentine.net



 The ARTS
The Turkey Dazzles
Renaissance Florentines
by Sabine Eiche



R
       emember Giambologna’s tur-
       key in the Bargello? Did you
       ever wonder if that sixteenth-
century Florentine bronze sculpture
had anything to do with the roasted
and stuffed bird that you gobble up
at Thanksgiving and Christmas?
With the bird that Benjamin Frank-
lin had wanted to put on the Ameri-                                                                                                      tière, the first tapestry to be woven
can seal in place of the eagle? The                                                                                                      in Florence in 1545, in Cosimo
answer is yes, and the story of what                                                                                                     de’Medici’s newly established work-
and how is truly amazing, as you’ll                                                                                                      shop. In the scene we see the per-
now hear.                                to Cardinal Lorenzo Pucci. Ger-                                                                 sonification of Abundance entering
   When Renaissance explorers            aldini explained in the accompa-                                                                from the right and a child at the left.
pushed off from the coast of Europe      nying letter that he was sending                                                                In the foreground between them is a
to sail across the Atlantic they         them as examples of the marvels                                                                 splendid turkey, gazing at us with a
wanted to discover the water route       of nature. Perhaps Pucci (who was                                                               slightly puzzled air, as though it had
to the Orient, unaware that a great      a Florentine) kept a zoo of exotic                                                              accidentally wandered up from the
body of land – the Americas – lay in     animals, as many people did then.                                                               garden in the background.
the way. They were looking for gold      Just imagine how jealously the car-                                                                 Cosimo must have loved turkeys.
and spices, and never in their wild-     dinals will have competed to keep                                                               In 1567 he ordered Giambologna to
est dreams could they have imag-         up with Pucci: we know that within       they saw a natural creature that sur-                  make a life-size sculpture in bronze
ined what they would find instead         ten years Cardinal Salviati (another     passed man-made art in weirdness.                      for his menagerie of over thirty crea-
– strange plants like potatoes and       Florentine) had a whole flock of tur-        It took no more than two years                      tures, carved from various materials,
tobacco and startling birds like tou-    keys strutting through his garden in     for the turkey to début in the world                   to be displayed in his grotto at Villa
cans and turkeys.                        Rome.                                    of art. In 1522-23, in the villa of the                Castello near Florence. Giambolo-
   Christopher Columbus saw tur-             If cardinals were envious, art-      Florentine Cardinal Medici outside                     gna’s sculpture, now in the Barg-
keys when he landed at Cape Hon-         ists were ecstatic. From their point     Rome, Giovanni da Udine painted                        ello, is not only the third represen-
duras on his last voyage in 1502,        of view, the turkey could not have       a vault showing scenes of antique                      tation of a turkey commissioned by
though nine years had to pass before     made its entrance at a more favour-      sacrifices flanked by images of birds                    the Medici of Florence, but also the
the bird itself journeyed overseas       able moment. The revival of antique      – the ostrich, peacock and a strik-                    third major work in the history of
to the Old World. The earliest evi-      culture was at its height in Italy       ingly realistic turkey. The ostrich                    European art to glorify the turkey.
dence of turkeys in Europe is found      around 1520, by which time Italians      and peacock were ancient symbols
in a letter of 1511, in which King       had developed an insatiable appe-        in legend and art, but the turkey was                   Read more about the turkey’s amaz-
Ferdinand of Spain ordered his           tite for a kind of ancient decoration    a newcomer and did not carry any
chief-treasurer in the West Indies       that they called grotteschi, after the   deeper meaning; it was included
                                                                                                                                          ing history in Sabine Eiche’s book
to send ten turkeys (five male and        painted underground grottoes (in         purely because it looked so strange.                    “Presenting the Turkey. The Fabu-
five female, for breeding) with every     fact buried rooms of ancient pal-            The turkey that sits in the vault of                lous Story of a Flamboyant and Fla-
ship sailing to Seville.                 aces) then being excavated all over      Cardinal Medici’s villa is the earliest                 vourful Bird”, for sale in Florence at
   Another nine years elapsed            Rome. The special quality of grotte-     depiction of the turkey in the whole                    the Uffizi, Salimbeni, McRae Books,
before the first turkeys reached Italy.   schi – monstrous plant and animal        of Western art. The next significant                     and Paperback Exchange. Visit the
Early in 1520, Alessandro Geraldini,     forms – is bizarreness. When artists     representation of the turkey also                       author’s website at http://members.
Bishop of Santo Domingo in Haiti,        saw the turkey they saw something        was commissioned by a Florentine.                       shaw.ca/seiche.
sent a turkey-cock and turkey-hen        even more bizarre than grotteschi:       This time the bird appears in a por-


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                                                                           Life in Italy                                                                          21
www.theflorentine.net                                                                                                                       Thursday 17 November 2005



                                                                                                                              Food & WINE
Liquid Gold:
The Wonders of “Olio Nuovo”
                                                                                   ornamental value of these wonder-         oil floating on the surface. Today,
by Alexandre Vladimir                                                              ful silvery trees.                        centrifuges accelerate the process,
                                                                                      Best quality oils are harvested        carefully maintaining the critical-


I
     t’s olive harvest season. Time                                                ex albis ulivis, that is from the olive   for-quality temperature below 28
     stops; nets and parachutes burst                                              tree when olives are still green.         degrees Celsius.
     open like giant mushrooms in                                                  Forcing the olives to fall on nets           Flowing out of impeccably clean
the November green olive orchards                                                  carefully laid out, twenty to thirty      inox equipment, a mystical glow-
surrounding our city. This is where                                                kilos of olives for an average size       ing green juice illuminates the mill.
one of the world’s best quality extra                                              tree are gathered into boxes, and         The colour is preserved by avoid-
virgin olive oil is produced.                                                      are either laid out for no more than      ing oxidation with air particles, a
    Fairly out of place with every                                                 a few days or brought immediately         reaction enhanced by heat or light,
day’s frantic pace, harvesting olives                                              for milling in batches of up to 300       which is why olive oil is bottled and
in the hills around Florence has                                                   kilos. The amount of time between         preserved in dark glass, despite its
little to do with time, money, traf-                                               harvest and milling will influence         flashy look when presented in trans-
fic, or pollution. Every year, when                                                 taste and rate (the percentage of         parent amphorae. Celebrations start.
olives start to ripen from green to                                                oil [in kilos] extracted from 100         A fireplace warms the atmosphere
black, we drift to a different era,                                                kilos of olives). In Tuscany these        on chilly nights at local mills. When
bringing back the values of good                                                   rules are rigorously followed to pre-     aromas of fresh olive juice stimu-
quality life, friendship, teamwork,                                                serve organoleptic properties and         late the appetite, the waiting room
and peace. Olive picking is a fun,                                                 culinary virtues of the olio nuovo,       turns into a banquet; sausages are
fruitful, and healthy open-air activ-                                              the new oil. Organoleptic rating          fast on the grill next to bruschetta,
ity. Contact with nature hardly gets                                               is based on taste – sweet to spicy,       to savour the olio nuovo. Wine is
more intimate than swinging on an                                                  fragrance – delicate to strong, and       guest to this event, and the olive oil
olive branch amid perfumed leaves,                                                 colour – ranging from golden yel-         is equally precious, although less
watching the world from a differ-        of abundance, glory, and peace from       low to opaque green.                      commercially profitable; while the
ent perspective, from under show-        Greece. In subsequent centuries, the           The oil, comprising 11 to 25         wine improves with time, the oil is
ers of olives. The happy celebration     Romans increased their wealth by          percent of the olive, is extracted by     best when fresh and spicy.
reaches its climax at the stone mill,    spreading the source of profitable         crushing and mixing the olives in            Happily, olive oil is healthy. It aids
where a precious golden liqueur is       oil trades across the peninsula and       a mill with two granite millstones        digestion; thins the blood (which
extracted from the gathered fruit.       since then, their number has only         that roll within a metal basin. The       helps combat heart disease); builds
    Olive oil has been more than         been increasing. There are currently      method is very simple. Originally,        bone mass; helps to assimilate vita-
mere condiment to the peoples            over 500 kinds of olive trees in Italy,   the paste resulting from crushing the     mins A, D, and K; slows down the
of the Mediterranean; it has been        and their cultivation has fascinated      olives was left for several hours for     aging process; and helps with bile,
medicinal and magical, as well as        many regions of the world.                clarification, the process in which        liver, and intestinal functions.
an endless source of fascination            Each type of tree has its own          the heavier solid particles separate
and wonder – the fountain of great       style. When lacking seasonal care         from water and from the lighter                   Enjoy Olio Nuovo!
wealth and power. The culture            and attention, a tree tends to go
originated in the Caucasus, where a      back to its wild and scruffy nature.
bushy tree was pruned to produce         Pruning takes place between the              With the expert guidance of maestri oleari (master oliviers), Olio dal
more of its oily fruit, a magical pro-   last cold winter wave and spring’s           Vivo at Villa Medicea di Lilliano on Saturday 26th and Sunday 27th of
cedure that travelled to Syria, Pales-   wake up call, between February and
                                                                                      November is an upcoming olive oil event. Amidst Jazz music, live olive
tine, Crete, and Egypt between 5000      March. There are 15 or more cri-
BCE and 1400 BCE. Imported by            teria to follow contemporaneously            oil production, and tasting lessons, Italy’s major olive oil producers are
the Greeks in southern Italy from        before cutting off each branch, leav-        promoting this year’s olio nuovo. Entry fee is € 7, reduced € 5, and
the seventh century BCE, the Olea        ing half the tree pruned. Besides the        free for children under twelve. On the same weekend, at “Olio Nuovo
Europaea trees we see today share        basic rules to follow, one of which          e Gusti d’Autunno” culinary artisans will host a public olive oil tasting
the same roots of the trees planted      depends on how much rainfall will            and will be selling traditional seasonal groceries in Impruneta’s Piazza
in Tuscany around 600 BCE by the         bless the summer, gentlemen farm-            Buondelmonti.
Etruscans, who adopted the symbol        ers add their own touch to enjoy the
22                                                                                   Life in Italy
Thursday 17 November 2005                                                                                                                                        www.theflorentine.net



  Food & WINE
Doing the Turkey in Tuscany
How and Where to Have Your Thanksgiving Dinner                                                                                        by Carolyn Abney


                                                 T
                                                       hanksgiving - il giorno di ringra-     day in Italy, the meal is often served        you are cooking for a crowd and have
                                                       ziamento - is less than a week         on Saturday or even Sunday.                   a large oven, the maximum size for
                                                       away. Whether you are in Flor-             Marie B. tells a wonderful story          your bird should be 7 kilos – that’s as
                                                 ence as a visitor, a student, or a resi-     of when she and a fellow American             large as a female can grow. “Non si fa”
                                                 dent, it is likely that your plans for the   friend worked together to prepare a           to have a male turkey. A rule of thumb
                                                 day are made. If you are an American         traditional Thanksgiving dinner for           is 1-1 ½ pounds or 500-750 grams per
                                                 or a Canadian – or the child of one          their husbands and children. At the           person for the bird. Unless you like
                                                 – you know EXACTLY what Thanks-              end of a meal she regarded as “lav-           lots of leftovers…
                                                 giving dinner means. But it means            ishly abundant” and successful, one               Every cook is looking for sweet
                                                 very different things to each of us.         of the husbands replied that it was all       potatoes, canned or fresh. The “patate
                                                 Do you go for dressing (a side dish)         good, but that “something was miss-           americane” you sometimes find are
                                                 or stuffing for the turkey? What does         ing.” It was only then that she realised      neither regular sweet potatoes nor
                                                 that dressing or stuffing contain? If         they had forgotten cranberry sauce.           yams and will not provide the taste
                                                 you could have the perfect cranberry         But, wait, how could this Italian from        and texture you want.
                                                 concoction – which you will likely           Salerno know about cranberry sauce?               Florence has a new resource for
                                                 NOT achieve here in Italy - would it         When quizzed as to what was missing,          cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie fill-
                                                 involve fresh berries, or be a sauce?        he replied, “You needed some stuffed          ing and other necessities this year:
                                                 And dessert? Pumpkin pie, or pecan,          green peppers to make it perfect.”            Sam’s Market (055.71.89.020). Jim-
                                                 both, or something entirely differ-              She also pointed out that her             my’s Bakery (055.24.80.999) is also a
                                                 ent? Your answers will speak volumes         Thanksgiving table (like most every-          good source. Some Esselunga super-
  Grandma Hepford’s                              about where you – or your parents
                                                 – are from.
                                                                                              one’s here) is like the original feast        markets carry Ocean Spray Cranberry
                                                                                                                                                       Sauce. Pumpkin, sliced or

  Chestnut Stuffing                                  Whatever your images of
                                                 Thanksgiving, they are prob-
                                                 ably based on fantasy, not fact.         From everyone at
                                                                                                                                                       whole, is readily available. I
                                                                                                                                                       find you need to add a bit of
                                                                                                                                                       sugar to get the taste closer
  from The Thanksgiving Book                     Although we know the first                                                                             to American pumpkin and
                                                 Thanksgiving took place in
                                                 Plymouth, MA in 1621, docu-
                                                                                           The Florentine,                                             squash. But steamed and put
                                                                                                                                                       through a food mill, you get a

                                                                                         Happy Thanksgiving!
                                                 ments mention fowl, which                                                                             result that is “close to home”.
  Since chestnuts are very Tuscan and readily    were more likely duck or geese                                                                           With a little creativity, you
  available this time of year, you may want to   than turkey. Forget the cran-                                                                         can make most of the clas-
                                                 berries: if they were on the                                                                          sic Thanksgiving dishes with
  try this stuffing. Read all the way through                                                                                                           ingredients you find here. But
                                                 table, they would have been
  – two days are involved.                       used for tartness or colour. More            in that it includes both “pilgrims”                    the most important ingredients
                                                 than 50 years passed before they were        (Americans) and “natives” (Italians).         are good friends and a spirit of truly
  Makes 3 cups (about 700 grams), enough         boiled with sugar. Neither white nor         My first such combination had the              giving thanks, whether you’re eating
  for a 4 pound/2 kilo Turkey. ¼ teaspoon        sweet potatoes were available to the         Italians serving themselves the tiniest       in or eating out.
  is about a gram. Don’t be slavish – add        colonists. Finally, the group may have       of portions from the buffet, just to be           If you are looking for a restau-
                                                 had pumpkins and other squashes,             polite, until they were sure what they        rant with a special Thanksgiving
  spices to your liking                          but it is unlikely they had butter and       were eating. Then they filled their            menu, check out The Lounge at JK
                                                 wheat flour with which to make a pie          plates.                                       Place (055.264.5181) or Zibibbo
  2 cups (about 450 grams) chestnuts             crust. Sigh.                                    If you are cooking for Thanksgiving        (055.433.383). There are likely others;
  1 teaspoon salt                                   In polling members of the long-           and are like 95 percent of your com-          just ask around. If you are a student,
                                                 term expat community here, it seems          patriots, you will want a turkey. You         you probably already know about the
  3 tsp. unsalted butter                                                                      can order a whole one from your local         International Youth dinners at St.
                                                 that Thanksgiving has tended to be
  ¼ tsp. pepper                                  a tradition kept by American women           butcher or poultry dealer. Some of the        James Church (055.29.44.17) on Via
  1 cup (220 gr.) soft breadcrumbs               (with Italian husbands) who want to          stalls in the Central and Sant’ Ambro-        B. Rucellai. Their fall season ends
  ¼ cup (60 ml.) hot milk                        transmit part of their cultural back-        gio Markets also have them, and tur-          with Thanksgiving dinner on Wednes-
                                                 ground to their children as well as          key breast is widely available. A tip         day, November 23. Seating is limited;
  Salt and pepper to taste                                                                    from past experience: be sure to check        you need to check for availability.
                                                 experience the emotions of a much-
  butter to taste                                loved time “back home.” But because          the size of your oven, so you don’t buy
                                                 Thanksgiving Thursday is not a holi-         a bird that’s too large for it. Even if
  Place the chestnuts in a saucepan, add 4
  cups boiling water, and simmer for 3 min-
  utes. Drain and spread chestnuts on paper                                                          �������������������������€ ������
  towels. Let them dry overnight.                                                                    ����������������€ ������
  The next day, put chestnuts in a saucepan
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  and cover with 4 cups of lightly salted,
  boiling water. Cover and simmer for 10-15                                                            ����������������������������
  minutes. Drain, peel, and mash to a paste
  or finely grind in a food processor. Season                                                           �������������������
  to taste with butter, salt and pepper.                                                               ���������������������������
  In a mixing bowl, combine bread crumbs,
  salt, and pepper.                                                                                  ������������
  In a small saucepan, melt butter in milk,                                                          �����������������������                    �����������������������������
  then pour over bread crumbs. Add chestnut
  mixture and mix thoroughly. Cool com-                                                              ����������������������������                 �������������������������������
  pletely, then use to stuff the bird.                                                               ��������������������������������                 ��������������������
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                                                                                                       Useful Numbers and Classified Ads                                                                                      23
www.theflorentine.net                                                                                                                                                                                Thursday 17 November 2005



                                                                                                                                                                                     Classified ADS
 Housing For Sale/Immobili Vendita                                     Bagno a Ripoli 126 mq. Living room,
                                                                       two bedrooms, large kitchen, loft, three
                                                                                                                                      I sell in Florence original documents in
                                                                                                                                      Benito Mussolini and King of Italy’s own
                                                                                                                                                                                     I teach English several evenings a week
                                                                                                                                                                                     and am looking for day work. By trade
 Loft For Sale in Prato. 2 lofts near                                  bathrooms, terrace 100 mq.                                     hands. Email yesitaly@yahoo.co.uk              (not in Italy), I am software salesperson.
 historic centre, each 137 sq. m., ideal                               Phone 055.632518                                                                                              I am looking for office work, creative
 for homeoffice. We can show project                                                                                                   Moving Sale, Sat/Sun Nov 19/20 all             work, organizational work (home or bus),
 and location. For information, e-mail                                 City center, short or long-term rent.                          day, via Pandolfini 28, Piperno/Maglietta,      babysitting. I am positive, direct, good
 marco@agilelogica.it                                                  Refurbished in 2004 with bedroom, bath                         tel. 055-2001523                               attitude. 338-869-1235
                                                                       with tub, A/C, living room and kitchenett.                     Items include: Rowenta hair dryer, curling
 Housing for Rent/Immobili in Affitto                                   Tel. 055.2299970                                               iron, steam iron, ironing board, table and     Experienced babysitter English 19 year-
                                                                                                                                      floor fans, table lamps, antique marble         old student seeks weekday evening and
 Two large, bright rooms, in a flat                                     Household Items for Sale/                                      and tables antique chair, white sofa bed,      weekend work.
 equipped with every comfort, for rent
 in via Mariti, 100 m. from University.
                                                                       Oggetti in Vendita                                             coffee table, 2 bar stools, stationary bike,   Caroline 333.4750132
                                                                                                                                      AM/FM stereo and CD player, Baker’s
 Available from July. Non smokers only.                                Lots of good stuff for sale, at low-low                        rack and more.                                 Baby sitter, I am a mother of a 6 month
 Tel. 055.353425.                                                      prices!! Including prints, antiques,                                                                          old child looking to baby-sit children
                                                                       florentine-candelabras, tables, chairs, sofa,                   Help Wanted/Offerte di lavoro                  together with my son. Mother tongue
 Apartments for rent in historic centre.                               etc. phone: 055 239 6458, 10am-7pm                             Seeking mature responsible college             English, phone 329.9119012
 All fully furnished and equipped, short/                                                                                             age female for part-time care of 6 y.o.
 long term, from €600 to €1200 per
 month. Call: 347.3737616 or e-mail
                                                                       Signed contemporary New York
                                                                       artist’s prints for sale; Hirst, Warhol,
                                                                                                                                      English speaking girl.                         Private Lessons/Lezioni Private
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 info@realestateinitaly.com                                            Schnabel, Chia, Salle, Kruger.                                                                                Leather Crafting Classes. Scuola del
                                                                       Phone: 055 2396458 10am-7pm                                    New York University in Florence seeks          Cuoio offers short-term (3 hours/1-2 days)
                                                                                                                                      candidates for the part-time position of       & long-term (1 wk to 10 mths) individual
                                                                                                                                      Community Resource Assistant. This             courses and classes under a Master
  ���������������������������                                                                                                         four month opportunity (renewable)             Leather Craftsman inside the Monastery of
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                                                                                                                                      Experience working with U.S. students,
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  �������������������������������������������������������                                                                             to speak and write English at proficient
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  ����������������������������������������������������                                                                                Italy required and is the sole responsibil-    Saturday/Sunday mornings near Teatro
  ���������������������������������������������������������������������������                                                         ity of the applicant. Interested candidates
  ����������������������������������������������������                                                                                                                               Goldoni. Still life subject, canvas, paints
                                                                                                                                      should email a cover letter and resume         and easel supplied. All levels welcome.
  ������������������������������������                                                                                                to: florence.studentlife@nyu.edu                For more information please contact
  �����������������������������������������������������������������������������                                                                                                      Cathy at 055 2207171/3381499392
  ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������                           Job Opportunity. Sales Associate
  ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������                                          for The Florentine. We are looking for

  ����������������
                                                                                                                                      people who are interested in selling           Personals/Personali
                                                                                                                                      advertising in The Florentine throughout
  �������������������������������������������������������������������������������                                                                                                    Single mom expat is looking for an Eng-
                                                                                                                                      Florence and Tuscany. Please contact:
  ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������                                                                                      lish speaking playmate, boy or girl 6-8,
                                                                                                                                      pubblicita@theflorentine.net
  ������������������������                                                                                                                                                           for a very funny and slightly precocious 6
                                                                                                                                                                                     year old boy. We live in Centro.
  ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������               Business Opportunity: one Santo
                                                                                                                                                                                     Call 320 9528697
  ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������                 Spirito business encompasses many
  ������������ ����������� ��������� ���� ������ ��� ���� ��������������� ���������� ��� ������� ��� �������� ������������ ��� ����    enterprises: an optical shop, camera          German girl just arrived in Flor-
  ���������� ���� ���� ����������� ����� �������� ��������� ������� ���������� ������������� ��� ����������� ����� �����               and photo equipment and services,             ence looks for Italian female friends
  �������������������������������������������������������������������������������                                                      and an internet point offering exten-         not older than 40y.o. Write to Karen
                                                                                                                                       sive computer services. This 40 year
  �����������                                                                                                                                                                        yesitaly@yahoo.co.uk
                                                                                                                                       old neighbourhood business has a
  ��������������������                                                                                                                 stable clientele of both locals and           A 40 y.o. man is looking for English
  ����������                                                                                                                           tourists. Minimal investment required         speaking friends to improve his English
  ��������������������������                                                                                                           for this unique and well-established          also for Italian/English conversation, no
                                                                                                                                       opportunity. Phone                            private lessons. Marco 335.204747
  ���������������������������
                                                                                                                                       Luca 347.5123234
  �����������������������������������������                                                                                                                                          Are you an English speaking mom look-
  �����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������                         Jobs Wanted/Cerco lavoro                       ing for other English speaking moms?
  ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������                                                                                             Join our English speaking moms & tots
  �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������                 Young graduate man with previous               playgroup. We meet Mondays 10-12 at
  �������������������������                                                                                                           experience in translation (from English,       St. Marks church. For more information
  ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������                        Italian and Spanish to French and              call Melanie @ 340 5131772 or
  ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������                      Arabic) and in hostelery (front and back-      Barbara @ 333 7662352
  ��������������������������������������������������                                                                                  office), with accounting and computing

  ���������������������
                                                                                                                                      skills, is looking for a new challenge
                                                                                                                                      related to tourism and languages.
                                                                                                                                                                                     Services/Servizi
  �����������������������������������������������������������������������                                                             Tel. 328.3457537                               Body Language Pilates and Yoga Stu-
                                                                                                                                                                                     dio. An intimate studio near Centro offers
                                                                                                                                      Australian lawyer/writer seeks part-           many level specific classes daily of group
                                                                                                                                      time work. Can teach English (Tesol            Yoga and Pilates mats taught in English
                                                                                                                                      qualification), baby-sit, pet-mind, work        with private apparatus sessions available.
                                                                                                                                      in office. Hardworking, enthusiastic,           Call Dennis Clark at 335.790.4029.
                                                                                                                                      reliable. Contact Joanna 329.6016081
                                                                                                                                      or jjgalbraith@gmail.com                       American landscape designer offers
  �� �������������� ����������� ��� ������� ���� ����� ����� ����� ��� ������ ����������� ��������� ��� ������������� �����                                                          services from design to installation and
  ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������                          A 28 y.o. good-looking, reliable               maintenance. Initial consultation free.
                                                                                                                                      German girl is looking for job as              Contact Jessica Casoni: 338.3298135
  �����������������������������������������������������������������                                                                                                                  or jessica@florencegardendesign.com
                                                                                                                                      shop assistance or receptionist in a
  ������������������������������������������                                                                                          perfume shop, fashion shop etc. Email.
                                                                                                                                      yesitaly@yahoo.co.uk
   N THE HEART OF THE FLORENTINE CHIAN-
TI REGION, JUST 20 KM FROM FLORENCE AND
40 KM FROM SIENA, SETTLED ON THE CREST
OF A ROLLING HILL COVERED WITH VINEYARDS
AND OLIVE ORCHARDS, THE TWO ABODES (THE
FARMHOUSE AND THE VILLA) WHICH MAKE UP
SERRISTORI COUNTRY HAVE SAT FACING EACH
OTHER FOR CENTURIES.
THE STRUCTURE HAS BEEN DIVIDED INTO 10
COMFORTABLE APARTMENTS, IN ACCORDAN-
CE WITH THE ANCIENT ARCHITECTURAL CA-
NONS OF TUSCAN FARMERS, WHERE BAKED
STONE AND WOOD ARE MIXED HARMONIOU-
SLY. TO FINISH THESE MATERIALS, NATURAL
PRODUCTS THAT WERE ONCE COMMON PLACE
HAVE BEEN USED: BEESWAX, LINSEED OIL, AND
OLD WHITEWASHING TECHNIQUES.




    SERRISTORI COUNTRY
           Poggio al Frantoio
          Strada commenda 2
     50028 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa
             Firenze, Italy
         tel +39 055 2001623
         fax +39 055 2347828
      www.serristoricountry.com
      info@serristoricountry.com




       TRUE JEWEL IN THE MAGICAL SET-
TINGS OF PIAZZALE E MICHELANGELO
AND THE ENCHANTING ARNO EMBANK-
METS; JUST A FEW STEPS AWAY FROM
THE PONTE VECCHIO AND PITTI PALACE.
FROM ITS BALCONIES YOU CAN ALMOST
TOUCH THE MAJOR MONUMENTS OF FLO-
RENCE: SANTA CROCE, THE UFFIZI GALLE-
RY, PALAZZO VECCHIO, THE DUOMO...THE
RENAISSANCE AT ITS MOST AUTHENTIC,
ITS HISTORY AND CULTURE, FROM THE
HEIGHTS OF A BUILDING WHICH EPITO-
MISES THIS ATMOSPHERE. THIS UNIQUE
PLACE IN THE WORLD. SERRISTORI PALA-
CE IS A CHOICE THAT OFFERS YOU THE
OPPORTUNITY OF LIVING IN THE HEART
OF FLORENCE




      SERRISTORI PALACE

         Lungarno Serristori, 13
           50125 Firenze, Italy
          tel +39 055 2001623
          fax +39 055 2347828
       www.serristoripalace.com
       info@serristoripalace.com

				
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