VIEWS: 9 PAGES: 29 POSTED ON: 3/11/2012
Disclaimer – I am not nor is anyone who has assisted me with this document an Audi technician nor have advanced knowledge of Audi past the weekend hobbiest. It’s recommended that you consult with an authorized Audi technician to either perform these modifications OR advise you prior to you performing any modifications to your Audi vehicle. IAMAUDI LINK http://www.iamaudi.com/audi-q5-tow-hitch-installation-sunset-imports-service/ Thank you kleinbus for these directions: The tools I used, - 10mm extended socket (normal too short so you need at least 1" long to be able to remove bumper nuts), extension and ratchet. - 10mm open head wrench - Few different size torx's (if you take rear wheels off, you can use screwdriver with torx head, if wheels on then you need 1/4 torx sockets and ratchet as there is not much room) - 16mm socket, extension and ratchet (I actually didn't look the socket size, I just took one from 1/2 drive box the way, loose, loose, fits and off it comes ) - Small thin flat head screwdriver (to be able to remove plastic locking washers from fenders). - Long nose pliers - Angle grinder with steel cutting disc to make the hole to bumper skin for hitch. The removal exercise and the car itself, clean the trunk, take off the folding floor, remove the plastic tray if you still have it there, if not then remove other stuff like I had warning triangle, first aid kit and blah blah. Tire can stay there... You know where is the pump in the trunk? Take the door off. Same to right side and unplug the power socket. Back to the pump. Pump off you go... Then with long nose pliers unscrew the 2 silver washers (unclockwise) and pump platform comes off. While in trunk, remove the tie-down loops and the panel. Use torx and unscrew each and lift off the chrome tie down from both sides. Then fold down the back seat (don't need to lock but at least flip the rear seat folding handle in trunk so they fall down). Look where trunk ends and back seat begins, there is panel going across just behind the back seat. It haves two stage removal. Lift it up to first pop and then pull it little bit toward you and it comes off. Remember this procedure when you install it back after everything is done. Now the floor side panels where tie-down loops were. Stay near the back seats and wiggle up back seat end first and then turn the panel towards the center of the car and then trunk door end comes off. The bumper nuts... Remove the lock cover, lift it from one corner just enough to be able to put your fingers under and pull it little bit, once it pops off, same thing on other side. Don't use screwdriver too much as it is thin stainless steel sheet. Unplug the lock sensor and put the cover away. then the 4 nuts that may make you nuts if you don't have right tools Photo below is just to show corner bolts are a bit lower than on middle. Don't try to pull bumper off yet... The fenders and tricky plastic locking washers There is a steel stubs sticking out from fender to hold the inner fender and to be able to bend inner fender a bit out to have access to bumper skin, torx and these palstic washers needs to be taken off. With that small screwdriver you gently need to lift up the retainer, though not too much or you hop hop to dealer parts for first visit Approx locations of torx's and plastic washers. Unscrew the torx and wiggle the plastic washers off from driver and passenger sides... Once both sides cleared from washers and screws... Time to fiddle off the upper bumper corners. Pull inner fender towards the wheel to get your hand between the plastic fender and the car fender. Once you do this part, you better remember how you did it as this is the most annoying to do, taking off and put it back Then the bottom corner where the wheel arch ends. Get your hand back between the inner and car fender, look all the way down where the arch ends you will see black plastic bumper frame notch holding the skin edge. Grap the upper edge you just peeled off from plastic frame and as it stick out a bit from car side, pull it down and with with little wiggle with other hand the skin pops off from notch. After both sides, there is 2 plastic clips more on each side and then bumper comes off and is held by bumper lights and you need to cut off one ziptie to get a bit more cable. Unscrewed and removed the alu bar and installed the trailer wiring and also the control box bracket that went behind the right side trunk panel. Then it was time of the steel hitch... Then back tracked all screws and bolts back to own location and threw bumper skin back on. It was midnight so I have no photo from finished installation but maybe tomorrow I will take a shot and add it here. It looks same as photo on IAMAUDI's post (just silver car) Then I connected the cables to control box and VAG-COMed it to activate the trailer. Works but I also got ESP warning so I unplugged control box and will wait till Friday to get the darn update. At the end, was this sweat and hours spend worth of all work? I saved about 400 bucks and still have to go to dealer to get the update. If hitch was available when I got the car then sure I had ordered it with the hitch to avoid whole mess. Today if I had been in rush then sure I had paid dealer to do it but on the other hand, this was good excersice to see how it is build at the first place. Now for the coding and my donation to this project . I as many others that I’ve spoken to have gotten ESP errors and had to go in to the dealer to get the computer configured after plugging in the trailer control box. Well, with help from my forum friends we’ve been able to figure out what needs to be configured. Here are those instructions. Launch your VCSD (VAG) application Choose Select The first code change is in section 01-Engine Before you go further, make a note of the WSC (Work Shop Code) in your car. This is shown on the right in the second box [Shop # Imp:000 WSC #####. Write this down for later. Choose Coding – 07 Click on Long Coding Helper and Byte 6. Select bit 3 – Trailer Installed Click the X to close the window Click Do It! Click OK Close Controller, Go Back -06 Click on 03-ABS Brakes You will get an ESP message when you click on this, it’s normal. Click on Security Access – 16 Security code: 61378 Click Do it! Click OK Click on Coding – 07 Click on Long Coding Helper Select Byte 1 and add a check mark to Bit 7 Close the window Click Do It! Click ok Close Controller, Go Back -06 Click on 09 – Cent. Elect. Choose Coding – 07 Click on Long Coding Helper Select Byte 18 Bit 5 Close Window Click Do It! Close Controller, Go Back - 06 Click on 6C – Back-up Cam. Click Coding 07 Now this might change from car to car but in my case I’ve change my xx#xxxx number from a 2 (optical Parking System) and added +1 to account for the trailer. If you don’t have the parking system, you might have a 0 and then would change it to a 1. Click Do It! Close Controller, Go Back -06 For those of us in North America, I’ve found that if you leave the trailer hitch module at its default (0100000000000000) you will get a brake light error and the brake lights on the trailer will not work. If you try and code the controller – 69, and try and change this to (0200000000000000) the controller will not take the code. Follow these steps to code this controller: In the main window of the VCDS click on Options Click on the User Interface and Identification tab at the top of the screen. You will see Workshop Identification. Please enter the number you took down earlier in this how to in the WSC. Use 444 as the Importer number and Save the results. Now try to code 69 - Trailer to: 0200000000000000 Choose Select Click on the Electronics 1 tab The first code change is in section 69-Trailer Choose Coding – 07 Click on Long Coding Helper In Byte 0 you can use the pull down menu to give you “North America (USA/Canada)” Click the X to close the window The WSC might still show all zeros, manually type in the WSC you took down earlier. If the importer field is blank, manually type in 444 as well. Click Do It! Click OK And you’re done. Close the VCSD application and verify that all is good. NOTE: I’ve tested 2 models of 7->4 trailer adapters. The first had 4 LED lights to help with testing that you have brake lights without the need of a trailer. This caused my car to give an error. Use the 7-> 4 adapters without LED tester lights.
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