Your 16-page guide to a spectacular island of untamed beauty

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					TASMANIA
Your 16-page guide to a spectacular island of untamed beauty




                                                                   Distributed with

                                                         The Daily Telegraph
                                                             Saturday, February 13, 2010

                                                                     In association with




          INSIDE Why the Tasmanian devil is back in favour On the trail of unspoilt
          scenery Luxury stays and gastronomic delights Perfectly private escapes
2   |                                                                                                                                                                                                                              |   SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2010


                                                                                                                                                                                                          Þ For more information on Tasmania, visit
TASMANIA                             Distributed with The Daily Telegraph                                                                                                                                                 www.discovertasmania.co.uk




SECRETS REVEALED
WARM WELCOME Hospitality, natural riches, cultural heritage – it’s all to be discovered in Tasmania, says Diana McAdam



C
             all it southern                expectation: the endless fields of                                                                                                                                                silent forests; the luminous man-
             exposure, but in               white-petalled flowers blowing in                                                                                                                                                 sized fronds of the super-ferns;
             Tasmania everything            the breeze are actually opium                                                                                                                                                    the Jurassic plains of tufted
             seems just a little            poppies — along with more                                                                                                                                                        button grass.
             larger than life. Blame        conventional produce, Tasmania                                                                                                                                                      And, with a population of only
the location — it’s teetering on the        harvests around half of the                                                                                                                                                      500,000, there are no car brakes
edge of the world, overshadowed             world’s legal pharmaceutical                                                                                                                                                     shrieking, horns honking or sirens
by Australia and ignored by                 poppy crop each year.                                                                                                                                                            blaring to pollute the world’s
Antarctica — but while no one was              It also looks like no other place                                                                                                                                             cleanest air. In Tassie, it’s the
looking this island developed a             on Earth. However you choose to                                                                                                                                                  silence that’s deafening.
strong, uncompromising                      access it, this island state has an                                                                                                                                                 The wildlife has long since
individuality. It’s not that                untamed, muscular beauty that is                                                                                                                                                 ripped up the rulebook, too.
Tasmania didn’t follow the rules;           to do with the intensity of colour                                                                                                                                               Unsupervised and with few
it’s just that there weren’t any.           and the power of the elements.                                                                                                                                                   natural predators, Tasmania’s
And the people are a hardy bunch.           And it can be deadly as well as                                                                                                                                                  creatures dandified themselves
In Tassie, a 100-knot cyclone is            decorative. For centuries, unwary                                                                                                                                                with scales and beaks and spines
just a really windy day.                    vessels carried in on seas rolling                                                                                                                                               and pockets. The birds are so
   This stoicism may be a legacy of         with dolphins, sharks and whales                                                                                                                                                 opinionated that the dawn chorus
the convicts Britain shipped to the         were lured to its shores by                                                                                                                                                      sounds more like an argument
island’s shores, whose lives                tempting coves and sheltered                                                                                                                                                     than a song; there is a sea eagle
tended to be nasty, brutish and             bays, only to be smashed upon                                                                                                                                                    that lays eggs the size of rugby
short. Heartbreak and hard labour           the razored verticals of the shear-                                                                                                                                              balls and builds not one but
were the lot of these wretched              faced cliffs. The land is dotted with                                                                                                                                            several nests that measure 6ft
souls ripped from their homeland            mountains of a rugged angularity                                                                                                                                                 across; there’s also a gang of
and sent to end their days on the           that demands respect, as well as                                                                                                                                                 delinquent razor-beaked ravens
other side of                                                      inky black                                                                                                                                                the size of toddlers who play
the world.                                                         rivers and deep                                                                                                                                           chicken with traffic and will
When                   The landscape                               limpid pools                                                                                                                                              smash-and-grab your picnic in the
transportation                                                     that reflect the                                                                                                                                           blink of an eye. However, the
stopped in the         has a poetic                                wild mood                                                                                                                                                 undisputed leader of this motley
mid-19th                                                           swings of the                                                                                                                                             crew is the Tasmanian devil, the
century, those         flamboyance that is                          heavens above.                                                                                                                                            world’s largest carnivorous
left were                                                            Tassie skies                                                                                                                                            marsupial whose blood-curdling
eventually set         impossible to ignore                          have a size                                                                                                                                             screams in the night so terrified
free to build                                                        and grandeur                                                                                                                                            the early settlers they thought it
towns and villages                                              that renders you                                                                                                                                             was Old Nick himself.
that would remind them of home.             speechless (the daily romance                                                                                                                                                       There are many remarkable
   However, their memories had              between cloud and sunlight alone                                                                                                                                                 things about this extraordinary
been dimmed by torturous                    is quite enthralling); the landscape                                                                                                                                             island, from the unspoilt curves of
months at sea and warped by                 has a poetic flamboyance that is                                                                                                                                                  beaches so white they leave an
years of merciless punishment.              simply impossible to ignore.                                                                                                                                                     imprint on your soul, to the weird
They also built to suit the                    Today, Qantas operates 28                                                                                                                                                     and wonderful fauna and flora:
environment: this being frontier            flights a week from London to                                                                                                                                                     what stays with you is the diversity
country, the architecture, like the         Australia: the award-winning                                                                                                                                                     and intensity of the experiences on
people, had to be tough to survive.         Qantas A380 operates on selected                                                                                                                                                 offer. While the glorious landscape
And survive it has but while the            flights from London to Sydney and                                                                                                                                                 remains the ace in the pack, it’s the
place names are the same —                  Melbourne; there is a twice-daily                                                                                                                                                other cards that make up a really
Weymouth, Devonport, Sheffield,              service into Melbourne, a city                                                                                                                                                   cracking hand.
Melton Mowbray — what the ex-               offering a variety of connections           Historic Hobart: the enchanting state capital is Australia’s second oldest city after Sydney                                            Whatever you chose to do,
cons created was Old England                into three Tasmanian airports.                                                                                                                                                   your most lasting memories will
with New World attitude. So, while             Until the last decade,                   sweet-scented leatherwoods;                 temperate rainforest survives                   There have been newer, more              probably be of the people you
there are pubs and post offices,             accessibility was a problem. So,            the majestic gums and eucalypts;            like a living, breathing ancestor            familiar arrivals — the avenues of          meet, of their friendliness and
schools and general stores, their           ignoring the few pirates, whalers           the indomitable Huon pines —                from a different millennium, a               oaks, hedges of hawthorn and                charm, amazing hospitality and
walls are 3ft thick; their roofs            and convicts who washed up on               Tasmania boasts some of the                 growing green so impenetrable                lines of poplar that were imported          passionate desire to share the
helmets of corrugated iron.                 its shores, the island’s vegetation         world’s tallest and most ancient            that the fabled thylacine or                 by settlers to announce their               best that their island has to offer.
   That’s Tassie all over; strangely        became not the backdrop but the             trees. Today, nearly half of the            Tasmanian tiger — officially extinct          wealth and guard their territory —          Tasmanians genuinely believe
familiar yet reliably unpredictable.        star. It’s as though Mother Nature          island is protected or has World            since 1986 — is rumoured to                  but they pale into insignificance            that their home is the finest place
Even the crops confound                     forgot to apply the brakes: the             Heritage status, so the eons-old            haunt its bowers.                            beside the natives: the strangely           on Earth: it’s hard to disagree.



Contents
HERITAGE                                                                    4-5         TASMANIAN DEVIL                                                                9         COASTAL TREK                                                         12-13
Why Tasmania’s “sins of the fathers” are no                                             How the much-maligned island icon is facing up Carol Drinkwater gets tired, emotional and
longer a cause for shame                                                                to life on the endangered species list         thoroughly elated on the Bay of Fires Walk
PURE EXTRAVAGANCE                                                           6-7         FOOD & WINE                                                                  10          CRY FREEDOM                                                                 14
Dynamic design is injecting a little man-made                                           With superb local produce and award-winning Get liberated on a Tasmanian camper van tour
luxury into Tasmania’s most alluring locations                                          wines, gourmets are flocking to Tasmania’s table
                                                                                                                                                                                 BLAZING SADDLES                                                             15
TASMANIAN TIGER                                                                8        THE AGRARIAN KITCHEN 11                                                                  There’s plenty of freewheeling fun to be had
The story of a predator’s extinction. Or is it?                                         Home-cooking classes have never tasted so good                                           mountain biking in premier pedalling country
PRODUCED BY TELEGRAPH CREATE IN ASSOCIATION WITH TOURISM TASMANIA AND TAILOR MADE TRAVEL
Editor Jackie Holland Managing editor Emma Northam Creative director Dawn Squance Art director Jon Farley Picture editor Abi Patton Design Lena Konstantakou, Elton Lam Production John Barton, John Wilmott, Caroline Elderfield, Paul Carroll
PICTURES Cover: Tourism Tasmania/Joe Shemesh; insert: Getty. P2-3: Photolibrary.com, Joe Shemesh, Geoff Murray, Tim Dub/Tourism Tasmania. P4-5: Photolibrary.com, John de la Roche, Joe Shemesh, Geoff Murray/Tourism Tasmania. P6-7: George Apostolidis, Garry
Moore, Chris Wilson (2), Grant Hancock (2)/Tourism Tasmania. P8-9: Keiran Meeke (2), Tasmanian Museum & Art Gallery, Michael Walters Photography, Peter Morse/Tourism Tasmania. P10-11: Garry Moore, Joe Shemesh, Nick Osborne/Tourism Tasmania, Kieran Meeke (2).
P12-13: George Apostolidis, Daisuke Akita, Simon Kenny, Joe Shemesh, Adrian Lander, Chris Bay, Don Fuchs, Freycinet Experience/Tourism Tasmania. P14-15: Gareth Eyres, Glen Gibson, Owen Hughes, Dennis Harding/Tourism Tasmania. P16: Getty.
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2010   |                                                                                                                                                                                                   | 3

        For great Tasmania holiday ideas, go to
        www.tailor-made.co.uk                                                                                                                                     Distributed with The Daily Telegraph   TASMANIA


Enjoy a little
remote control
SPLENDID ISOLATION Tasmania could be
just the ticket if you’re feeling the need to get
away from it all, writes James Stewart


B
         lame Anthony Trollope. His           impress even without the thrill of
         comment that Tasmania was            speeding past in a small boat at 20 knots.
         more English than England has        But the most spectacular element of a
         served as a deterrent to anyone      journey along the coastline of Bruny
in search of pioneer-spirit Australia. In     Island, south of Hobart, is the wildlife. At
fact, Tasmania bears little comparison to     the tip of the island lies The Friars, a
the mainland, let alone the Old Country.      lonely speck before an empty ocean. Sea
Drive for an hour from Sydney Harbour         birds wheel as you circuit this last outpost
Bridge and you’ll still be snarled in         before Antarctica, and the sea seems to
suburbs; in Tasmania, you could visit         boil with dolphins and Australian fur seals.
rainforest, alpine ranges or stupendous       Who said wilderness was land-based?
sea cliffs in that time, then return to a                                                    State of total serenity: lonely locations include Melaleuca, above; Sir John Falls, below left
goose-down pillow in the capital, Hobart.      2    MELALEUCA With a population of
Better still, many of the state’s remote            two part-time rangers, Melaleuca         Officially, the journey takes a few hours     your car. Crest a plateau and enter a lost
landscapes are easily accessible to
“motosapiens”, though most visitors
                                              doesn’t even warrant the title of one-
                                              horse town. What this corner of the
                                                                                             from Strahan; actually, you are back at
                                                                                             the beginning of time.
                                                                                                                                          world of ragged mountains, glacial lakes,
                                                                                                                                          stunted King Billy pines and palm-like
                                                                                                                                                                                            HOW TO GET THERE
don’t seem to have cottoned on yet —          Unesco-listed Southwest National Park                                                       pandanis. Look familiar? The Walls of             Þ Four domestic airports, Hobart in
maybe Trollope did Tassie a favour after      has in abundance is wildlife and raw            4     TARKINE The Arthur River is the       Jerusalem was sufficiently primitive to            the south, Launceston, Devonport and
all. Here’s five remote places to explore...   beauty. Never settled by Europeans, it is             gateway to the north-western          appear in the BBC’s Walking With                  Wynyard in the north, receive direct
                                              Tasmania at its most epic, evident on a        Tarkine. Waves from Patagonia crump          Dinosaurs. Talk about conservation in             flights from Sydney and Melbourne.
 1    THE FRIARS The sea cliffs would         boat trip across a natural harbour. For        onto its shoreline, littered with massive    Tasmania and your time frame stretches            Flying time to Hobart from Melbourne
                                              pioneers, the problem was rainforest           tree trunks and 30,000-year-old rock         millions of years. Tread softly.                  is 1 hour 10 minutes, and from
                                              thicker than the Amazon: there are still       art, and buffeted by what is officially the                                                     Sydney 1 hour 50 minutes.
                                              no roads for more than 60 miles, but a         cleanest air on Earth. The beleaguered        6     THE FRANKLIN Escape civilisation
                                              Cessna from Hobart flies you to this            Tasmanian devil finds a refuge here, and             and embark on the longest white-           Þ Two passenger and vehicular ferries
                                              minor Middle Earth in just over an hour.       birdlife thrives along snaking rivers        water rafting in the world down the last          travel to and from Tasmania. Spirit of
                                                                                             through a rainforest the World Wildlife      truly wild river. Journey through the             Tasmania I and II depart Melbourne
                                               3    SIR JOHN FALLS It took the               Fund described as “a living link with the    rugged south-west of Tasmania, through            nightly, taking approximately 10 hours
                                                     largest civil protest movement in       [former] supercontinent Gondwana”.           deep gorges, quiet pools and magnificent           to reach Devonport.
                                              Australian history to protect the Gordon       In case you are in any doubt about           temperate rainforest. Regardless of the
                                              River in 1983. Preserved by a World            where you are, they’ve put up a sign:        river level, professional guides defy the         Þ A number of luxury cruise ships
                                              Heritage listing, this area is so pristine     “Edge of the World”.                         remoteness, with meals that will exceed           from around the world make
                                              that only luxury eco-cruiser MV Discovery                                                   expectations washed down by pure river            Tasmania one of their destinations,
                                              and charter yacht Stormbreaker are              5    WALLS OF JERUSALEM That                water. Any descent of the Franklin is             with Hobart as the primary port.
                                              granted a licence to journey upriver to              Cradle Mountain is crawling with       demanding and while previous rafting              In 2005, 31,500 people visited
                                              the falls. Birds hoot from somewhere           day-trippers in summer is one more           experience is not required, some                  Tasmania via cruise ships.
                                              within the seemingly infinite primeval          reason why this neighbouring National        wilderness knowledge, along with a sound
                                              rainforest, otherwise all is silence.          Park warrants the three-hour hike from       level of fitness, is essential.
4   |                                                                                                                                                                                                |   SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2010


                                                                                                                                                                                Þ For more information on Tasmania, visit
TASMANIA                          Distributed with The Daily Telegraph                                                                                                                        www.discovertasmania.co.uk




FINDING A NEW SENSE
HERITAGE Refusing to remain prisoners of their chequered past, Diana McAdam reveals that modern-day Tasmanians



I
         n 1836, Charles Darwin declared: “As a
         means of making men outwardly honest,
         of converting vagabonds, most useless
         in one country, into active citizens of
         another, and thus giving birth to a new
and splendid country, it has succeeded to a
degree perhaps unparalleled in history.” But as
soon as transportation to Van Diemen’s Land
ended in 1853, the renamed Tasmania’s
convict history became the elephant in the
room, ever present but never mentioned, as
though its decades as the known-world’s most
infamous penal colony could be forgotten.
   The town that had grown up around the Port
Arthur penal station renamed itself Carnarvon
in an attempt to erase the hated stain, drawing
a genteel lace curtain across its brutal past.
Free to forge their own futures, the former
convicts claimed plots of land, where they
put down roots and built new lives. As
businessmen, traders, farmers and architects
they assumed the manners and trappings of
affluence and influence — and quietly buried
their guilty secret. Tasmania wiped the slate
clean: out of sight, out of mind.
   And so it remained, not so much hidden as
unspoken of, until quite recently, when
Tasmanians began to acknowledge and take
pride in the truth: their lawless past is woven
into the fabric of their present; it is what makes
them who they are. There were more than
220 offences that could result in a sentence of
transportation, and of the 166,000 men,
women and children who were sent to Australia
as convicts between 1787 and 1868 — many
for crimes as paltry as stealing a loaf of bread —
nearly half were sent to Van Diemen’s Land.
   The majority were from Britain, and it is
estimated that half of Tasmanians are
descended from convicts who sailed through
the narrow harbour mouth, known as Hell’s
Gates, to Sarah Island on the west coast.
The other half are related to free settlers —
prisoners who earned their freedom, or
pioneers such as the Archers of Woolmers and
Brickendon, who risked the long voyage to try
their fortune in this uncharted land.                  structures — designed to look more like a pretty    Rising from the      Tasmania’s was opened in 1828 on a marshy           construction of the estates’ many buildings.
   These are the people who laid the                   village than a place of misery and crime — they     ruins: above from    piece of land at the foot of Mount Wellington       Together, Woolmers and Brickendon — which
foundations of modern Tasmania. Their legacy           held dinners and literary parties, schooled their   left, Saltwater      and, at its peak, held 1,200 women. It was          were established and owned by the Archer
lies in the familiar place names — Sheffield,           children and attended church. The                   River Coal Mines     purpose-built as a self-contained institution to    brothers in northern Tasmania (yes, you really
Swansea, Hamilton and Bridport — and in the            Commandant’s House, which occupied prime            penal colony; Port   incarcerate, punish, employ and reform female       do find Archers in villages other than
buildings, the bridges and the faces of the            position above the bay, had a delightful garden     Arthur penal         convicts, but it quickly became notorious for       Ambridge) — had a combined assigned convict
people. It was the convicts’ physical strength         that was described in 1838 as being “filled with     station; the         overcrowding, disease and high birth and            population of more than 100 from the early
and mental vision that felled the trees, laid the      fruit trees, gooseberries, currants and almost      Penitentiary         mortality rates. By 1842 there were more than       1820s until the 1850s. According to its
roads, forded the rivers and tamed this                every plant to be found in English gardens”.        Chapel; below, the   500 women in the factory, which was designed        records, the inhabitants of the original
inhospitable land. Tasmanians have realised            But the detail I found most revealing was that      bell at Brickendon   to hold fewer than 250, and the local paper         Thomas Archer’s rambling homestead
that to deny this means that the thousands of          recorded in 1850 by Commandant AH Boyd,             estate               had dubbed it the Shadow of Death Valley.           included 23-year-old Liverpudlian Elizabeth
people who laid the foundations of their               whose butler was a convicted murderer. Boyd                              Although there is little left of the original       Slater, a housemaid (when she wasn’t in jail
country died in vain.                                  admitted to “a slight feeling of malaise” each                           building today, the factory is brought vividly      or on the town) who had been convicted 11
   Indeed, so important are Tasmania’s convict         time the man passed him with a carving knife.                            to life by a fascinating walking tour and           times before being transported for stealing a
sites to the history of transportation, that five          If Port Arthur shows how the freemen lived,                           two-handed play called Louisa’s Walk, which         watch, and three nursemaids, one of whom,
have been nominated for World Heritage                 Cascades Female Factory in Hobart and the                                tells the wretched true story of Louisa Regan,      Scotswoman Mary Ann Stewart, was serving
status. Following the Convict Tourism Trail —          Woolmers estate near the village of Longford                             an uneducated Irish woman who was                   14 years for robbery and assault.
from the town-sized penitentiary of Port Arthur        highlight the plight of the 14-15,000 women                              transported on the convict ship Rajah in 1835.      Affectionately known as “the bulk of the
on the Tasman Peninsula, described by the              who were transported to Van Diemen’s Land                                  The women of Woolmers and Brickendon, in          legislation”, it is 21-stone Thomas Archer’s
English prison reformer Jeremy Bentham as              between 1821 and 1853, often for offences                                                   contrast, were some of the       perfectly preserved rooms, furniture,
“a machine for grinding rogues honest” (and the        as trivial as stealing food for their                                                       lucky ones who had been sent     ornaments and silverware that offer such a
model for London’s Pentonville), via the Coal          starving children.                                                                           to work for private masters     fascinating insight into the lifestyles and
Mines Historic Site and Darlington Probation              Convict women were                                                                        under the assignment            aspirations of these early households.
Station on Maria Island, to Longford in the            considered to be                                                                             system, which was set up to       Amazingly, the mixed farm of Brickendon
north and the Brickendon estate (a working             important because they                                                                        provide labour for new         has been run by the same family since 1824,
farm that has been in the same family for seven        were the wives,                                                                               settlers in exchange for the   making it a working record of Tasmania’s past.
generations) is an easy self-drive that takes          mothers and domestic                                                                          convicts’ food, clothing and   “A successful nomination for World Heritage
you from one end of Tasmania to the other.             servants who held the                                                                          lodging. It also aimed to     status would increase the profile of the
These diverse sites allow you to draw your own         fragile society of the                                                                         rehabilitate criminals        property,” says Louise Archer, the current
conclusions about a complex development that           new world together —                                                                            through work and moral       lady of the manor.
entailed much more than mere transportation.           yet they were also                                                                              guidance, and integrate        “We are telling a story and are part of a
   It is perhaps ironic that today it is Lieutenant-   regarded as a threat to                                                                          them into the penal         story, and it will increase the profile of
Governor Arthur’s “place of terror” — the Port         that society. Female                                                                             colony. The women           convictism. We are a private property and
Arthur punishment station for repeat offenders         Factories were                                                                                   entered domestic service    want to keep the place looking as it always
on the Tasman Peninsula — that best tells the          established in penal                                                                              while the men worked as    has done. At present, we can’t see how we
tale of the soldiers and officials who, with their      settlements both to                                                                               blacksmiths, tanners,      can continue to maintain 22 heritage buildings
wives and families, tried to live normal lives         isolate convict women and                                                                         bricklayers and            without some grants and subsidies for
within prison walls. In a complex that                 to protect society from                                                                           shepherds, as well as      preservation and conservation. A nomination
comprised more than 30 convict-built                   their corrupting influence.                                                                         labouring on the          could keep our history alive.”
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2010   |                                                                                                   | 5

        For great Tasmania holiday ideas, go to
        www.tailor-made.co.uk                                                        Distributed with The Daily Telegraph   TASMANIA



OF CONVICTION
have banished the guilt and are now proud to embrace their history and unique cultural legacy
6   |                                                                                                                                                                               |   SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2010


                                                                                                                                                                Þ For more information on Tasmania, visit
TASMANIA                       Distributed with The Daily Telegraph                                                                                                          www.discovertasmania.co.uk




WHEN ONLY THE BEST
PURE EXTRAVAGANCE New top-dollar developments have turned parts of Tasmania into high-end holiday havens.



H
              ospitality is one of the
              cornerstones of any visit to
              Tasmania, nowhere more so
              than at the top end of the
              market. Thanks to the
island’s abundant natural advantages,
visitors to Tasmania are never
disappointed. But while appreciating this,
those in the luxury arena have recognised
that in order to lift an experience from
the memorable to the truly exceptional
Tasmania has to offer discerning
travellers a unique experience.
   The standard was set in 2004, when
The Henry Jones Art Hotel opened for
business on Hobart’s historic waterfront,
on a site formerly occupied by the IXL
Jam Factory. The ingenious design by
Tasmanian architect Robert Morris-Nunn
had preserved the colours and textures
of the historic industrial site, while
creating a stunning 56-suite luxury hotel
and gallery in a stunning juxtaposition of
the antique and the ultra modern.
   Features include exposed beams,
sandstone walls and a magnificent glass
atrium, but the charm lies in the details
that have been preserved — the original
staircase in Henry Jones’ former
apartments that is one of Australia’s
oldest, and the unfinished carving on
the grand staircase that was never
completed because Jones considered it
to be an unnecessary expense.
   The hotel still showcases work by
emerging and established artists, much of
which is for sale, but what makes a stay      View to a thrill: the ravishing vista of Shouten Island and the Freycinet Peninsula makes Tasmania’s east coast a prime spot for luxury development
truly pleasurable is the highly individual
service guests receive: for Henry Jones’      Moorilla Wine Estate that will, in early       already placed them firmly on                                               MONA collection. Another unique selling
discreet, charming and effortlessly
obliging staff, nothing is impossible.
                                              2011, be opening MONA, Australia’s
                                              largest private museum of old and new
                                                                                             sophisticated travellers’ radar. But
                                                                                             what makes them truly distinctive is
                                                                                                                                       Recent hotel additions           point is that Moorilla’s eight pavilions
                                                                                                                                                                        (four were opened in 2009) all include
   More recent additions to Tasmania’s
hotel scene have followed Henry Jones’
                                              art — are an exciting addition to the scene.
                                              Their stunning location high above the
                                                                                             their art: each features an original
                                                                                             painting by modern Australian masters
                                                                                                                                       continue to push the             individual wine cellars and butler service.
                                                                                                                                                                        “No day is ever the same; to be able to
award-winning trajectory and continue to
push the boundaries of excellence. The
                                              Derwent River, innovative architecture by
                                              Fender Katsalidis, cutting-edge design
                                                                                             Charles Blackman, Arthur Boyd, Sidney
                                                                                             Nolan and Brett Whiteley, an antiquity
                                                                                                                                       boundaries of excellence          passionately engage guests with our
                                                                                                                                                                          diversity is a great challenge,” says
new MONA Pavilions — part of the              and contemporary furnishings have              and a display of ancient coins from the                                      hospitality manager Andrew Stack.
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2010   |                                                                                                                                                                                                   | 7

        For great Tasmania holiday ideas, go to
        www.tailor-made.co.uk                                                                                                                                     Distributed with The Daily Telegraph   TASMANIA



IS GOOD ENOUGH
 Diana McAdam discovers there’s art, architecture and a whole lot of luxury going on in the island’s hospitality market




Lap of luxury: a spectacular sundown at the MONA Pavilions, top left; and a stylish modern suite, above right, chic cocktail bar, left, and amazing modern artwork, below, in The Henry Jones Art Hotel

  A truly exceptional destination and         and panoramic view of the Hazard            has to offer, while feeling totally                                                             deserted islands to fishing and foraging
service tailored to suit the individual are   Mountains, architect Robert Morris-         connected to nature.                                                                            trips for food that will be prepared by
also the guiding lights of Saffire, a new      Nunn’s innovative design incorporates         The resort will offer three levels of                                                         award-winning chef Hugh Whitehouse.
£18m luxury complex occupying a               the very latest high-luxury, low-impact     suite — Deluxe, Luxury and Premium —                                                               “Saffire has presented an opportunity
125-acre site on Tasmania’s Freycinet         features. Guests enter into the main        with rates ranging from £560 to £1,700                                                          to create a different style of hospitality,”
Peninsula, and this year’s most eagerly       reception building — via a walkway that     per suite per night. These prices put it on                                                     says general manager Matt Casey, who
anticipated launch. “From the outset, our     looks like a jetty — whose lines echo the   a par with the finest international                                                              was also a driving force behind Henry
intention has been to create a unique         elegant undulations of a stingray.          establishments, but it is the service that                                                      Jones’ success. “It is not just about the
and sophisticated destination of the            The 20 self-contained suites are all      will really set Saffire apart. Each bespoke                                                      site and the area, but more the ability to
highest quality that features the very        designed to evoke the waves breaking        package will include 12 activities, and                                                         create something really special that will
best Tasmania has to offer,” says Greg        on the shore in front of the property,      guests will be contacted one month                                                              leave guests with lasting memories.
Farrell, MD of Federal Group, for which       and from the moment guests arrive to        before their arrival to discuss exactly                                                            “Tasmanians have realised that what
Saffire will be the flagship property.          the moment they leave, the concept is       what their dream holiday will entail —                                                          we have is incredibly special, and Saffire
  Complementing the area’s outstanding        that they will be pampered with all the     from whale watching, wreck diving or                                                            will be a showcase for the best that
natural beauty, ravishing ocean outlook       trappings such luxury accommodation         campsite dining on one of Tasmania’s                                                            Tasmania has to offer.”




  A new wave of coastal development brings killer designs to lovely locations
                                                                                          I   n 2005, Melbourne-based       balcony — the southern end         abandon their inhibitions            The Lair, designed to strike
                                                                                              architect Rick Bzowy gave     is 130ft from the northern         at the door.                         a balance between the
                                                                                              up his practice to pursue a   edge — is like standing on the       This attention to detail           practical requirements of
                                                                                          dream. His aim was to create      bridge of an intergalactic         extends to every room. The           luxury accommodation and
                                                                                          a space suspended between         cruise liner. Eighteen floor-       state-of-the art kitchen has         the natural beauty of the area.
                                                                                          the forest and the sea on the     to-ceiling glass sliding doors —   every gadget known to man,              The team behind Avalon
                                                                                          42-acre plot of land he had       10 at the front and eight at       woman or chef; the £25,000           will soon open the Rocky Hills
                                                                                          originally bought in Tasmania     the back — allow the east          Cassina lounge suite is almost       Retreat in the vicinity, but
                                                                                          in 2004. Countless drawings,      coast’s atmosphere and all         criminally comfortable; the          Bzowy swears there is no
                                                                                          two years of construction,        its moods, including the           two generous bedrooms                conflict of interests. “There is
                                                                                          and more than £1m later, his      million-dollar vista of            boast leather-headed beds            a lack of competitiveness that
                                                                                          dream has become a reality.       Shouten Island and the             the size of small islands            nurtures and supports a new
                                                                                            The Lair is a glamorously       Freycinet Peninsula, to            whose opulence would make            business in Tasmania
                                                                                          Bondesque pleasure pad on         dominate the space.                a sailor blush; the library of       because everyone is
                                                                                          Tasmania’s ravishing east            Everything about the            200 CDs can be viewed on             genuinely delighted to be
                                                                                          coast. “I just love the land. I   eastern facade has been            any of three plasma screens;         here,” he says.
                                                                                          think it’s spectacular and        designed to reference the          even the pool-size outdoor              “Tasmania is developing
                                                                                          deserved something really         ocean and horizon, the             Jacuzzi boasts an iPod dock.         fabulous facilities like Avalon,
                                                                                          special,” says Bzowy.             verticals to the back echo           It’s an architectural              Moorilla and Saffire. I wanted
                                                                                            Accessed by a dramatic,         the natural woodland of the        approach pioneered in                to apply that standard of
                                                                                          almost vertical track,            hillside behind, while the         Tasmania by Avalon, the              luxury on a smaller scale; to
                                                                                          everything is on a grand          interior has been furnished        steel-and-glass design by            create a spectacular building
                                                                                          scale: the door to the main       with a degree of shameless         award-winning architect Craig        of genuine beauty that did
                                                                                          entrance alone is 12 feet tall,   decadence that positively          Rosevear that occupies a             not intimidate people.”
   Lordly Lair: Rick Bzowy’s beachfront brainchild affords sublime views                  and standing on the vast          encourages guests to               waterside position below                            Diana McAdam
8    |                                                                                                                                                                                            |   SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2010


                                                                                                                                                                            Þ For more information on Tasmania, visit
TASMANIA                           Distributed with The Daily Telegraph                                                                                                                    www.discovertasmania.co.uk




THYLACINE: FACT OR FABLE?
TASMANIAN
TIGER James
Stewart studies the
history and mystery of
a national enigma


T
               o the newcomer, Tasmania is
               the surprise of Australia. An
               island of secrets in a nation of
               seemingly infinite space, it is
               a place where real-life devils
growl in the dark and moss-bearded
giants stand in ancient forests. Nothing
sums up the sense of having stumbled
into a land of myth and legend than the
curious tale of the Tasmanian tiger.
   There are only two things you really
need to know about the world’s largest
carnivorous marsupial. The first is that it
looks nothing like its namesake, except
for the chocolate stripes that extend to
a stiff tail. The tiger, or thylacine (its
scientific name, Thylacinus cynocephalus,
means “pouched dog with a wolf’s head”)
is more rangy dingo than big cat. The
second is that it has been extinct for
more than 70 years. Or it has until you
start asking around: then it turns out
they’re everywhere.
   Sensible, reputable people have
dedicated years to the hunt. Before he
gave it up to found Australia’s Green
Party in the late-Seventies, Dr Bob Brown                                                                                                                                                  Wide boy: Benjamin, the last
spent several months cooped up in                                                                                                                                                          captive thylacine, died in 1936
chicken sheds with a camera. Sadly, he
was eventually forced to concede defeat,
as was the government’s Parks & Wildlife          ongoing search. The 80-year-old                                                         Like Tasmania itself, the tiger tales get   there was the tiger witnessed by four
Service a decade later, after a fruitless
search based on a tiger sighting by its
                                                  bushman has spent half his lifetime
                                                  interviewing tiger witnesses and says his
                                                                                              The tiger has been                        under your skin after a while. Near Arthur
                                                                                                                                        River, not far from where Naarding said
                                                                                                                                                                                      people on a track just over that ridge; the
                                                                                                                                                                                      strange waxy scat found last year by the
own ranger Hans Naarding — as credible a
witness as it gets.
                                                  latest credible report came from Lake
                                                  Pedder in the remote south-west
                                                                                              extinct for 70 years,                     he woke to see two yellow eyes, a state
                                                                                                                                        forester told me about the dog-like
                                                                                                                                                                                      manager of a wilderness lodge. Or there
                                                                                                                                                                                      was his mate who walked after his car
   With that disappointment, the state
government officially pronounced the
                                                  wilderness. “Fella camped there says he
                                                  heard one three weekends in a row; that
                                                                                              until you ask around:                     animal that just melted into one of the
                                                                                                                                        oldest forests on Earth. Loggers,
                                                                                                                                                                                      broke down up here: “He hears this
                                                                                                                                                                                      yapping, these high-pitched yaps
thylacine extinct on September 7, 1986 —
50 years to the day after the death of
                                                  yapping noise they make when hunting.
                                                  Says it ran so close he could smell it.”
                                                                                              then they’re everywhere                    surveyors, and an old-timer shacked up
                                                                                                                                         in the bush, all swore to a sighting.
                                                                                                                                                                                      following as he walked,” says Williams.
                                                                                                                                                                                        But could it really have survived?
Benjamin, the last surviving thylacine in           Many witnesses, Naarding included,                                                     Craig Williams didn’t, yet the bushman     “Who knows?” continues the bushman.
captivity — and devoted its energies to           remark on the aroma — a hot, sharp stink.                                             and wildlife guide does not entirely          “There are places round here with no
finding feral foxes instead.                       “Smelt it myself once,” Terry remembers.                                              dismiss the seven thylacine sightings a       bloody roads or people or nothing. No
   “Skulduggery,” Ned Terry hisses in a           “Makes the hairs on your neck stand on                                                year reported since the Thirties in the       one’s been there, not even me. But no
café near Deloraine, a subterfuge for an          end, I can tell you.”                                                                 north-eastern forests he knows so well:       wild animal I know yaps… except one.”




    WHITE-KNUCKLE WILDLIFE WATCHING
    “Awesome” is not an adjective                                                     hemisphere. They’re also among
    routinely attached to the Tasman                                                  the most exposed — keep going
    Peninsula — but then not many                                                     south for 1,600 miles and you hit
    visitors explore beyond its                                                       Antarctica — but the locals don’t
    historic prison site at Port Arthur.                                              seem to mind. A ledge was as
    It’s their loss. Beyond the prison                                                crowded as Bondi Beach with
    peninsula’s star attraction lies one                                               sunbathing Australian fur seals,
    of Australia’s great safari parks.                                                 mostly too drowsy to care about
    It’s better known as the Tasman                                                    our boat just offshore.
    Sea, a body of water so bountiful                                                    A few seals rode shotgun on our
    that National Geographic named it                                                  bow-wave as we began our return,
    the world’s most accessible                                                        but Damien was restless.
    underwater wilderness for diving.                                                   Yesterday, a colleague had spied
       Without a wetsuit to hand, I                                                     whales on their biannual
    joined Tasman Island Cruises                                                        migration along Tasmania’s east
    (www.tasmancruises.com.au), for             wings. Fronds of rubbery giant       coast, yet the sea beyond was
    a tour that was equal parts               kelp rippled almost within touching    empty, except for a couple of
    “seafari” and white-knuckle ride.         distance beneath our hull, and a       albatrosses. Then a long grey back
       “Yeah, she’s a pretty rad’ ride,       shoal of purple haloes pulsated —      arced from the waves. Then
    mate. She’ll hit 50 knots easy,”          moon jellyfish, one of the crew         another — adult humpbacks.
    skipper Damien said when we met           explained. I glanced behind to see a   Damien exploded: “Whales!” As if
    by the company’s 50ft eco-vessel at       majestic albatross strafe the sea on   on cue, a shape torpedoed into the
    the jetty. We screamed out of             stiff wings. It was hard to say what   air barely 60ft away. A white belly
    Pirates Bay as if someone had             was more astonishing — the sheer       flashed as it rolled, and 16 tons of
    pressed the nitrous oxide button.         abundance of life or the 900ft         young humpback crashed back in a
       Thrills apart, the real benefit of a    dolerite cliffs that rippled south     plume of spray. Damien went into
    small boat became apparent as we          along the coastline.                   overdrive: “Albatross! Seals!
    nosed into a slab-sided cave,                Those at the peninsula tip are as   Whales! Awesome!”
    scattering comorants in a blur of         high as they get in the southern                            James Stewart    Eyeing the pod: groups of killer whales may be spotted on a Tasman Island Cruise
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2010     |                                                                                                                                                                                     | 9

         For great Tasmania holiday ideas, go to
         www.tailor-made.co.uk                                                                                                                          Distributed with The Daily Telegraph   TASMANIA


A whisker from disaster                                                                                                                           A WONDERFUL
                                                                                                                                                  PLACE TO GO WILD
TASMANIAN DEVIL The world’s largest existing carnivorous marsupial                                                                                Tasmania’s bountiful wildlife          BRUNY ISLAND
needs an even break if it is to avoid extinction. Kieran Meeke tells a tale of woe                                                                can be experienced all over
                                                                                                                                                  the island, and at all times of
                                                                                                                                                                                         Here you will find colonies of
                                                                                                                                                                                         the world’s smallest penguin,
                                                                                                                                                  the day or night. During a             the appropriately named little




C
             ursed with perhaps the                                                                          A breed and release                  quiet walk at dawn or dusk,            penguin, as well as white
             worst name in the                                                                            programme is planned. “We do            you may encounter platypus,            Bennetts wallabies, brush-
             animal world, the                                                                            need insurance populations,”            echidnas, quolls, wallabies            tailed possums and
             Tasmanian devil once                                                                         stresses Irons. “We also need           and Tasmanian devils, or               pademelons. Off the coast,
             had few fans even in its                                                                     research and we need to be              wedge-tailed eagles soaring            vast numbers of bottlenose
homeland. “People would swerve                                                                            relieving other strains: dog            on the wind.                           dolphins and fur seals frolic.
their cars to hit one,” says                                                                              attacks, cars, persecution.               Here’s a handful of places in        Take a boat trip for the best,
Professor Greg Irons, whose                                                                                  “Australia has the highest rate      which to experience some of            close-up view.
Bonorong Wildlife Centre near                                                                             of mammal extinction in the             Tasmania’s animal magic…               www.brunycharters.com.au
Hobart is a refuge for the world’s                                                                        world: 23 mammals in 200 years.
largest carnivorous marsupial in                                                                          Four species that were on the
                                                                                                                                                  NARAWNTAPU                             FREYCINET PENINSULA
its fight against extinction.
   Given its name because of the
                                                                                                          mainland only a short time ago
                                                                                                          are now found only in Tasmania,
                                                                                                                                                  NATIONAL PARK                          A peninsula of pink-granite
spine-chilling call it makes at night,                                                                    but I’ll bet my life savings most       Dubbed the “Serengeti of               mountains, eucalyptus forest,
the devil is the size of a small dog.                                                                     locals have never heard of any of       Tasmania” and stretching               white beaches and clear
Although a shy animal that                                                                                them except the Tasmanian devil         along the north coast from             waters, Freycinet is a heaven
scavenges for a good deal of its                                                                          — and even they are still               the low coastal ranges to the          for scuba divers and bird
food and relies on bluff for                                                                              persecuted and misunderstood.”          Bass Strait beaches, the sheer         lovers alike. White-bellied sea
defence, its bone-crunching teeth                                                                            John Hamilton runs the               numbers of wallabies,                  eagles soar overhead;
give it a fearsome appearance.                                                                            Tasmanian Devil Conservation            wombats and kangaroos in               Australasian gannets plunge
   The devil’s lack of cuteness is                                                                        Park near the former infamous           Narawntapu National Park               dive into the sea for food;
not the only reason for its decline.                                                                      penal colony of Port Arthur. “The       are extraordinary. This is one         yellow-throated honeyeaters
A highly infectious cancer has                                                                            wild devil population is suffering      of the best places to catch a          and yellow-tailed black
been devastating the population                                                                           from genetic breakdown,” he             glimpse of marsupials — you            cockatoos haunt the forests.
since the Nineties, wiping out                                                                            says. “It’s a bottleneck that           may even encounter an                  As well as the National Park,
95 per cent of the creatures                                                                              indicates that at some point in the     endangered Tasmanian devil.            Moulting Lagoon Game
in some areas. The cause is                                                                               past it rebuilt itself from a very      www.parks.tas.gov.au                   Reserve is a wetland of
unknown, though researchers                                                                               small genetic base.”                                                           international importance with
                                                                                                                                                                                         a diversity of water birds,
made a breakthrough late last
year when they
                                                                                                             With no cure or vaccine likely in
                                                                                                          the near future, he also suggests
                                                                                                                                                  THE QUOLL PATROL                       including black swans.
identified the                             In safe hands: Greg Irons with one of Bonorong’s                the most important thing is to buy      Craig Williams of Pepperbush           www.parks.tas.gov.au
gene responsible.                         wombats, above; Tasmanian devil, left; quoll, below right       time by isolating populations.          Adventures hosts an
   With                                                                                                   “The devil in the wild is at risk and   extraordinary evening at his
population levels                            telling parents what    fast from stress. Keep them          the devil in captivity is safe. Our     “restaurant in the sky” on
under such strain,                            to do when they        warm, dark and quiet — don’t look    role is to breed healthy animals        Ben Lomond. Bushman Craig
every animal                                  see a roadside kill.   at them every five minutes. Don’t     for likely wild release. Our funding    custom builds unique wildlife
killed on the road                               “With marsupials,   feed them cow’s milk — they’re       comes from tourism so tourism is        tours, promising close
is a tragedy,                                when mum is run         lactose intolerant. Then give us a   vital for conservation.”                encounters with some of the
and Irons is                                 over a baby will        call. We get calls throughout the                                            planet’s most elusive animals.
attacking the                                often survive in the    night, almost every night.”                                                  After feasting at his bush-

                                                                                                            MORE INFORMATION
problem with regular                         pouch,” says Irons.        Bonorong relies on entry fees,                                            tucker BBQ, you will enjoy the
free talks in schools.                         “So it’s important    donations and the help of                                                    antics of endemic animals,
His warm                                       to stop and check;    volunteers, says Irons. “They get                                            from the rare eastern quoll
                                                                                                            www.bonorong.com.au
enthusiasm for the                            those first few         a hands-on experience here                                                   and Tassie devil, to the
                                                                                                            www.tasmaniandevilpark.
devil is catching: the                     hours will save it or     second to none. It’s up-close and                                            platypus and potoroo.
                                                                                                            com
children are now spreading                  kill it.                 personal: we are not a zoo. There                                            www.pepperbush.com.au
                                                                                                            www.tassiedevil.com.au
the word at home, often                          “They die very      is a lot of interest from the UK.”
10   |                                                                                                                                                                                           |   SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2010


                                                                                                                                                                            Þ For more information on Tasmania, visit
TASMANIA                          Distributed with The Daily Telegraph                                                                                                                    www.discovertasmania.co.uk



                                                                                                                                                                           STATE OF
                                                                                                                                                                           THE ART
                                                                                                                                                                           A
                                                                                                                                                                                      nyone who doubts the breadth and
                                                                                                                                                                                      diversity of Tasmania’s arts scene
                                                                                                                                                                                      need only consider two current
                                                                                                                                                                                      projects — both the personal dream
                                                                                                                                                                           of two very different individuals. Mirror
                                                                                                                                                                           opposites in aim, theme and execution, the
                                                                                                                                                                           projects do share two important similarities:
                                                                                                                                                                           a total disregard for critical opinion and a
                                                                                                                                                                           desire to stimulate lively debate.
                                                                                                                                                                             The soon-to-be opened MONA, or the
                                                                                                                                                                           Museum of Old and New Art, is the brainchild
                                                                                                                                                                           of David Walsh, who owns the Moorilla Wine
                                                                                                                                                                           Estate in Hobart. For more than 20 years
                                                                                                                                                                           Walsh has been collecting everything from
                                                                                                                                                                           Egyptian mummies and Etruscan vases, to
                                                                                                                                                                           contemporary multimedia pieces and the
                                                                                                                                                                           gold discs of David Bowie. As well as important
                                                                                                                                                                           pieces by prominent Australian artists, his
                                                                                                                                                                           6,000-piece collection includes work by young
                                                                                                                                                                           British artists Jake and Dinos Chapman,
                                                                                                                                                                           Damien Hirst and Chris Ofili.
                                                                                                                                                                             “We are not trying to say that it is the
                                                                                                                                                                           most comprehensive, expensive, or the
                                                                                                                                                                           biggest collection and no doubt there will be
                                                                                                                                                                           criticism,” says Mark Fraser, MONA’s director.
                                                                                                                                                                           “What we want is for people to look at art and
                                                                                                                                                                           discuss it.”
                                                                                                                                                                             Sculptor Greg Duncan also wants to get




AUSTRALIA’S FINEST
FOOD AND WINE Tasmania has a well-earned reputation for quality ingredients and
fabulous boutique wines. It’s time to tuck in, says Teresa Machan



S
          uperb seafood, an array of         pickings for visitors. Tasmania is       leaving you free to slurp to your         also spend the night here, in a five-star
          tropical fruit, and the choicest   peppered with cheese farms, including    heart’s content.                          riverfront suite or chalet.
          beef, lamb and dairy products      Australia’s only organic sheep farm,        Launceston is the gateway to the          But the excellent food and wine is
          are staples of Australian          farmers’ markets and pick-your-own-      north’s Tamar wine route, where you       not restricted to the cities and well-
          cuisine. Couple that with          fruit farms, as well as acclaimed        can eat and drink your way through        trod touring routes. In Tasmania
one of the world’s most diverse              restaurants and cellar doors.            the Tamar Valley’s wineries, such as      you’re just as likely to turn up in a
ecosystems, rich and fertile soil, a            Ah yes, the wine. From humble         Ninth Island, Pipers Brook and Jansz,     remote town and stumble on a
state-wide moratorium on GM produce          beginnings — Tasmania planted its first   as you meander through the orchards,      gourmet menu prepared by a five-star
and a seemingly endless supply of            vineyard in 1821 — the state now         scenic pastures and forests that line     chef. In the sleepy west coast town of
dedicated small-scale, local producers       produces elegant and award-winning       the Tamar Valley Touring Route.           Strahan I checked in late at a lovingly
and Tasmania is beginning to sound           boutique wines including pinot noir,        Some of Tasmania’s vineyards           restored manor-house B&B, only to
like the world’s organic bread-basket.       riesling, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc,   throw in gourmet restaurants that         find a Michelin-starred chef in the
   Tassie’s unique location, on the tip      cabernet sauvignon and pinot gris as     incorporate locally grown produce. At     kitchen, and one of the island’s best-     Ancient meets modern: Hobart is preparing
of nowhere, affords it, officially, the       well as sparkling wines.                 the Moorilla Estate, just 10 minutes      stocked wine cellars on the premises.      to send shock waves through the art world
cleanest air in the world. Sourced from         Give Tasmania’s cool-climate wines    from Hobart, you can sip world-class         Gourmet delights are all part and
the cleanest air in the world is the         a whirl along one of its wine routes,    riesling, gewürztraminer, chardonnay,     parcel of the wilderness experience,       people talking, and word of mouth alone has
delightfully named Cloud Juice, a pure       where a diverse array of charming        pinot noir and cabernet with views of     too. Go kayaking with Roaring Forties      persuaded more than 50,000 people per year
rainwater drink produced on remote           cellar doors, from contemporary          Mt Wellington and the Derwent River.      in the Tasmanian World Heritage            to journey to Derwent Bridge, a small town in
King Island and stocked by Claridge’s,       restaurants and heritage stables to         The boutique winery also stages        Wilderness Area, where there is no         the Tasmanian Highlands midway between
Four Seasons, elBulli and Dean &             converted back-yard sheds await.         concerts and events and houses one        sign of civilisation within a nine day     Hobart and Strahan, to view The Wall, a
DeLuca… to name a few of its high-              All four wine-producing regions       of the Southern Hemisphere’s most         hike, and you can feast like a king on     massive bas relief carving that he began in
profile followers.                            are located close to Hobart and          extraordinary private art collections.    hearty breakfasts, gourmet dinners         2005, which tells the history of Tasmania from
   In fact, Tasmania produces plenty of      Launceston, as well as some of           Expect to pay around £57 per head         and fine wines.                             the viewpoint of the working man, “all the
extraordinary foods that you wouldn’t        Tasmania’s award-winning attractions.    for dinner with, naturally, a bottle of      The same is true on wilderness          subject matter a bloke needs”.
expect from a temperate island,              Some also offer accommodation,           excellent vino. Lovers of the grape can   walks — on the Maria Island Walk             Duncan began the self-funded project as a
including olives and extra-virgin olive                                                                                         (www.mariaislandwalk.com.au), for          reaction against the modern art establishment
oil, wasabi, saffron and black truffles.                                                                                         example, guides young enough to be         and all that it represents. “As far as I can see
From wild abalone to the highly                                                                                                 your children effortlessly knock out       most art today is like a rotting carcass and
acclaimed Leatherwood honey, and                                                                                                five-star cuisine from local ingredients    there are a lot of maggots getting fat on it,”
voluptuous, preservative-free cream                                                                                             in the middle of nowhere.                  he explains. “So I thought ‘bugger it, I’ll do
to award-winning cheeses, Tasmania                                                                                                 If you need further convincing just     my own thing and let people make their
has local organic produce by the                                                                                                follow the foodies. Some of Australia’s    own decision’.”
wheelbarrow-load — all delicious; all                                                                                           top gourmands have voted with their          Addressing 10 main subjects, including
incorporating the freshest, quality                                                                                             forks, and moved here.                     forestry, mining and hydroelectricity, The
ingredients.                                                                                                                       Converts include Rodney Dunn,           Wall will eventually cover 100 large panels.
   The annual Tastings at the Top                                                                                               former apprentice to Sydney’s                “I don’t want to do work for a heap of
event, a highlight of the Tasmanian                                                                                             acclaimed Japanese chef, Tetsuya.          intellectuals, I want to pull ordinary people
events calendar, draws foodies from                                                                                             Latterly the food editor of Australian     in who understand it, are part of it and can
far and wide, and if you’re serious                                                                                             Gourmet Traveller magazine, Dunn           comment on it. This is my interpretation of
about your food it’s worth planning a                                                                                           not only moved to Tasmania, he then        history,” he says.
visit around this indulgent food                                                                                                decided to open his own cookery            Þ MONA is due to open later this year. Check
extravaganza (this year from June 26-                                                                                           school, the Agrarian Kitchen, in           http://mona.net.au for updates
28) held at Cradle Mountain Lodge.           Gourmand’s delight: kick back along one of Tasmania’s many wine routes,            Tasmania’s Derwent Valley (see                                               Diana McAdam
   But there are plenty more rich            top, and taste award-winning produce at delightful cafés and restaurants           opposite page).
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2010   |                                                                                                                           | 11

        For great Tasmania holiday ideas, go to
        www.tailor-made.co.uk                                                                                Distributed with The Daily Telegraph   TASMANIA


Bespoke cooking
down on the farm
THE AGRARIAN KITCHEN Only the freshest, local
ingredients go into a meal whipped up by Kieran Meeke


T
             here’s no such                                               class called Tomato Gluttony,
             thing as a free                                              for example, which is a day
             lunch, but it’s                                              spent preserving tomatoes.
             seldom I drive                                               Last year we grew 60 species
             for an hour just                                             of tomato and we then made
so I can cook my own. At                                                  tomato ketchup, green tomato
the Agrarian Kitchen, in the                                              chutney, relish and so on.
quiet Derwent Valley of                                                    People went home with a big
Tasmania, I’ve even had to                                                 box of stuff.”
don wellies and pick my                                                      He doesn’t stop at
own vegetables (in the rain)                                               vegetables. Out back are
before I can start.                                                        chickens, geese and Wessex
   My hosts are Rodney                                                     saddleback pigs. Home-cured
Dunn and his wife Séverine                                                 sausages and hams hang in a
who set up the island’s first                                               smoke shed he made himself.
cookery school here in                                                     As you might expect in
2009. The remote setting                                                    Australia, the couple’s Whole
was forced on them by the                                                   Hog butchering class has
need to find a smallholding                                                  proved very popular.
that suited their equally                                                     “We thought it would be
small budget.                                                               mainly men,” says Séverine,
   The former food editor of                                                “but every class has been
Australian Gourmet Traveller                                                evenly split.”
magazine is a long way from                                                   “We also do a vegetarian
the high-powered city life he                                               class,” says Rodney. “I prefer
once enjoyed in Sydney.                                                     to call it a vegetable class
   “For me it’s about taking food     Class act: Rodney takes           because if it’s good enough you
back to its origins,” he says as we   cooking lessons back to basics,   shouldn’t miss the meat.”
eat a pasta and fresh veg meal        above and right                     He is right. Until then I hadn’t
that I have conjured up under his                                       realised that was one ingredient
expert instruction. “My newest                                          missing in my plate of pasta,
toy is a stone flour mill, so                                            fresh asparagus and thinly sliced
people can smell what freshly
ground flour smells like.”
                                      Home cured hams                   red onion.

   The house, suitably enough, is a   and sausages hang
                                                                         MORE INFORMATION
former school which now sits in a
five-acre organic vegetable plot.
“I focus on vegetables you can’t
                                      in a smoke shed
                                                                         www.theagrariankitchen.
buy, so that it’s a whole new
experience,” says Dunn. “We do a
                                      he made himself                    com
12   |                                                                                                                                                                                                    |   SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2010


                                                                                                                                                                                  Þ For more information on Tasmania, visit
TASMANIA                           Distributed with The Daily Telegraph                                                                                                                             www.discovertasmania.co.uk




     FIRE AND
     WATER
  COASTAL TREK
  Tasmania’s scenic shoreline is a real
  revelation for those willing to take a hike.
  Carol Drinkwater puts her best foot forward


O
              ur Bay of Fires Walk       the trek. However, our loads were    mining town where we made a          grey kangaroo, but was used by          of stepping stones; glimpses of           delicious dinner. Set back from
              began just outside         not to exceed 10 kilos. Mine sunk    coffee stop — small settlements,     the earliest settlers to describe all   the land bridge that once                 the boom of the ocean, plates of
              Launceston in the          the scales and I was obliged to      yet fascinating witnesses to the     such marsupials. Zane and Tara,         connected the island of Tasmania          cheese served, wine poured, and
              north-east of the          jettison perfume, skin creams, etc   history of the region.               his assistant, were encyclopedias       to mainland Australia. Heading            rugged up against the night’s chill,
              island at Quamby, a        — even my precious computer.            The coach deposited us within     of local information and kept us        south past Boulder Point and              we passed a convivial evening
19th-century homestead built by            I had been forewarned and had      the Mount William National Park                                              Cobler Rocks, we trod the sands,          beneath the stars.
                                         included a notebook that passed      near Stumpy Bay, where we                                                    clambering over giant, lichen-              Stepping carefully along the
Irish convicts for an Irish political
prisoner who was later pardoned.         muster. Our route was drawn out      donned our backpacks and              I always brought up                    rusted boulders, until at 4.30pm          boardwalk back to my tent, I spied
                                         on several detailed maps by Zane,    began our hike. It was a beautiful                                           we reached Forester Beach Camp.           a wombat foraging for supper.
On that landscaped estate, I was
introduced to the seven other            our principal guide. After           spring morning; directly overhead     the rear because I                     Here was our first base.                     Day two, striding south; eight
                                         breakfast the following morning,     glided a flock of pelicans. Within                                              I had not looked forward to this        miles-plus to achieve. Before
walkers and two guides in whose
company I was to spend the               we set off in a north-easterly       minutes, we were staring at small     wanted to linger, to                   stopover: we had been promised            breakfast, I climbed a track in the
                                         direction towards the coast. Our     mobs of forester kangaroos                                                    tents, but warned that there             dunes, attempting to pick up a
following four days.
   Before a delicious dinner of          two-hour bus journey took us         feeding in the fields of               inhale, to remember                      were no shower facilities (fresh        phone signal. Having successfully
Tasmanian organic lamb and fine           through the fertile farming          wildflowers. Zane pointed out the                                              water and supplies were brought          wished my sister in Kent a happy
local wines, we were given the           neighbourhood of Scottsdale          “boomers” (males) and a doe with     entertained and well informed           in by helicopter). In fact, the tents,    birthday, I turned to discover an
drill. Each was assigned a               (where our driver stopped to         her tiny joey’s head peeping out     throughout the entire trip.             though basic, were elegant, semi-         eavesdropper: a Bennetts wallaby
backpack into which went wet             collect bouquets of fresh herbs to   from her pouch. I learnt that the      Our first day’s hike was a             permanent fixtures abutting a              feeding in the bush.
weather gear, thermals, water            season our supper) and on to         word “kangaroo” comes from the       modest five-and-a-half miles,            dining room with kitchen, where             The glorious spring weather
bottle… all that was required for        Gladstone, a 19th-century tin        Aboriginal gungurru denoting the     stretching out to sea, a collection     Tara and Zane rustled up a                was holding, and heightened the
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2010    |                                                                                                                                                                                                    | 13

        For great Tasmania holiday ideas, go to
        www.tailor-made.co.uk                                                                                                                                       Distributed with The Daily Telegraph   TASMANIA




                                   Wild and wonderful: the
                                   unspoilt beauty of the
                                   north-east coast, left and
                                   above, is supplemented
                                   by the sustainable
                                   comforts of the Bay of
                                   Fires Lodge, right

magnificence of this wild and            nuts, a calorific heaven) break —       been spent here, son of the head       lighthouse and the Bay of Fires      there, the views over the ocean
unspoiled seascape. The sun was
hot, a light wind was behind us
                                        bums on beach, backpacks tossed
                                        aside for a blissful while, legs
                                                                               keeper. He knew every stone and
                                                                               boulder, the march of the waves,
                                                                                                                      National Park belongs to the few
                                                                                                                      surviving Aborigines, no longer
                                                                                                                                                           were worth the exertion. Now, we
                                                                                                                                                           relaxed. We drank Tassie wines by
                                                                                                                                                                                                       FIND OUT MORE
and the ocean was calm, flopping         outstretched, staring at the           every plant and insect, and I felt     pure-bloods. We can trek through,    the log fire; I watched two
                                                                                                                                                                                                       The four-day Bay of Fires Walk
lazily to our left. It is no            orange-hued boulders and the           privileged and fortunate to have       even pass on some of the native      wallabies making love in the bush;
                                                                                                                                                                                                       costs from £1,100 per person
exaggeration to say that the            birds — we learnt the fascinating      been on this trip with him.            stories, but the rest remains        we kayaked Anson’s River;
                                                                                                                                                                                                       full board, with a night at
scenery took my breath away. I          fact that shearwaters navigate by        He recalled a conversation with      theirs, their secrets.               spotted sea eagles preparing
                                                                                                                                                                                                       Forester Beach Camp and two
was always bringing up the rear,        the moon, and sometimes mistake        Aborigines who spoke of this              How I longed to penetrate that    commodious nests; read and
                                                                                                                                                                                                       nights at Bay of Fires Lodge.
less fit, perhaps, than the rest of      the glare from a lighthouse for        territory as theirs. “No,” he had      treasure-trove of stories.           reflected companionably upon the
                                                                                                                                                                                                       More information:
the team and a little older, but        their celestial orb.                   argued. “I grew up here.”                 Continuing towards the Bay of     magnificence of this coastline.
                                                                                                                                                                                                       www.bayoffires.com/au
predominantly because I wanted             We had reached the northern           “Then you understand us,”            Fires Lodge, we hit a rocky             The Bay of Fires. As Captain
to linger, to inhale, to remember:      end of the Bay of Fires. Zane was      they had replied.                      stretch. Within the rocks were       Tobias Furneaux’s ship sailed
                                                                                                                                                                                                       TRAVEL TIP
no footprints but ours indenting        a lighthouse-keeper’s son and the        Centuries back, when the             hillocks of seashells, Aboriginal    these eastern waters in 1773,
                                                                                                                                                                                                       Get a taste of the high life —
the virgin white sand; at the           lighthouse where he grew up was        Aborigines had all been rounded        middens — witness to their           the beaches were ablaze with
                                                                                                                                                                                                       Qantas serves some of
turquoise water’s edge, small           looming high above us. After a         up by the white settlers, they were    historical presence here.            camp fires. It must have been a
                                                                                                                                                                                                       Tasmania’s finest wines on
flocks of short-tailed shearwaters       picnic lunch on the sand, we hiked     shipped off to outer islands. From        The award-winning, ecologically   spectacular sight; the Aborigines
                                                                                                                                                                                                       board, including the Bay of
dancing on the breeze.                  over to it, at Eddystone Point,        there, they looked back upon their     sustainable Bay of Fires Lodge       at their campsites, gazing out to
                                                                                                                                                                                                       Fires Pinot Gris and Josef
  When we stopped for a                 where three keepers’ cottages          homelands in Tasmania.                 was our home for the final two        sea, performing their dances, their
                                                                                                                                                                                                       Chromy Botrytis Riesling.
“scroggin” (a high-energy trail         surrounded the tower. Fourteen           Today, this coastal area has         days. The steep hike up to it        rituals. This coastline was sacred
mix, packed with chocolate and          years of Zane’s childhood had          been returned to them. The             proved a challenge, but once         to them: I understand why.




More great walks on the wild side


THE MARIA ISLAND WALK                                       THE FREYCINET EXPERIENCE                                  THE OVERLAND TRACK                                      THE SOUTH COAST TRACK
If you love wildlife as much as walking, this is the one    If you enjoy walking but prefer not to compromise on      Winding for 37 miles over six days through the          Originally an escape route for shipwrecked sailors, the
for you. Maria Island, just off Tasmania’s east coast, is   creature comforts, this four-day walk, encompassing       majestic glacial scenery of the Cradle Mountain-Lake    South Coast Track frequently takes “mainlanders”,
an uninhabited National Park and a “Noah’s Ark” for         around 25 miles of guided walking, swimming and           St Clair National Park, in the heart of Tasmania’s      who consider Tasmania a soft option, by surprise. One
endangered species — from pademelons to potoroos.           kayaking, makes a perfect choice. Explore the hidden      World Heritage Wilderness, the Overland is probably     for the hardy and experienced, this five- to nine-day
The park also houses an astonishing abundance of            corners of the stunning Freycinet Peninsula National      the most famous of all bushwalks. Unpredictable         (52-mile) trek crosses two mountain ranges, winding
birds, including a fairy penguin population. And with       Park, taking in white-sand beaches, pink-granite          weather and challenging hiking demands a good           through a wild and unspoilt wilderness of pristine
no fear of mankind, the creatures are openly on view        mountains, forests of towering white gum trees and        level of fitness, but expert guiding, coupled with the   rivers, towering rainforest and remote beaches
— at all hours of the day. The four-day walk ranges         the jewel in the crown, the iconic, horseshoe-shaped      comfort of your private hut (think hot showers,         washed by the Great Southern Ocean. It’s camping by
from 21 to 26 miles, the longer taking in a mountain        Wineglass Bay — before returning each evening to a        afternoon teas and hearty meals) make the day’s         night with minimal creature comforts, so you must be
or two and offering breathtaking views of Tasmania’s        gourmet meal and a comfy bed at the award-winning         efforts through that awesome, pristine scenery          fully self-sufficient. And, who knows, you may be
east coast. Two nights are spent in wilderness camps        Friendly Beaches, a sustainable lodge tucked away         well worthwhile. A shorter version of the track is      sharing your space with wombats, pademelons, quolls
near the beach and one in a heritage-listed house.          discreetly on one of Tasmania’s best beaches.             possible, and public huts are available for those       and the rare orange-bellied parrot. For more
Competing strongly with the wildlife and scenery are        Pampered and rested, you’ll feel like the only visitors   hardy souls who prefer to walk independently — but      information, visit www.greatwalkstasmania.com.
the delicious regional food and wine.                       for miles and miles. Oh, that’s because you are…          remember to do your research before you set off.                                               Teresa Machan
14    |                                                                                                                                                                                              |   SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2010


                                                                                                                                                                              Þ For more information on Tasmania, visit
TASMANIA                         Distributed with The Daily Telegraph                                                                                                                           www.discovertasmania.co.uk




                                                                         KING OF THE ROAD


     CRY FREEDOM There’s only one way to get the most out of this country… in a camper van. By James Stewart



I
       never imagined that love        words. Factor in that a camper         while wallabies bounce among        a super-sized adventure                for up to four weeks with the           entertainment from the locals,
       would be a whiskery face.       van refuses to be rushed and you       the scrub.                          playground. Liberated from the         blessing of the government.             you’ll pull back the curtains each
       Certainly not one at            have a holiday that is about             From lonely alpine mountain to    tyranny of overnight schedules,           No wonder they call this the         morning to top-dollar views, then
       Marrawah, a settlement of       sunshine-sounds on the stereo, a       lush tropical beach, nowhere is     your kitchen parked by a trail,        “Lucky Country”.                        drive away without pulling out so
       fishermen and farmers            finger on the wheel and a broad         more than six or seven hours’       travel plans can change on a              Sure, facilities are limited, but    much as a tent peg.
strewn haphazardly behind a            smile on your face. Slow travel        drive away. You don’t get that on   whim and holidays become real-         hot showers and electricity hook-         So, a holiday by camper van is
remote crescent of sand. But as        has never been so much fun.            the mainland.                       life clichés of open-road freedom,     ups await in numerous proper            part easy-going transport, part
the sun dragged the sky sizzling         Admittedly, Tasmania, a state          Where you go depends partly       especially if you pull off the         campsites and there’s nothing to        wildlife safari and part countryside
into the sea at dusk, I noticed a      the size of Ireland, is not the        on your transport. The classic      bitumen onto the dirt roads that       stop you temporarily parking your       hotel with fabulous views.
pair of black button eyes gazing       obvious choice for the great           camper leased from major names      criss-cross the countryside. You       bushman spirit in a boutique hotel        That package in an eco-lodge
keenly at me. A small nose             Aussie road trip. But nor is it the    such as Britz or Maui or local      may jeopardise your rental             now and then.                           would be the highlight of a
twitched, the wombat waddled           bore-athon they often become,          operators, perhaps Tasmania         insurance (check the small print)         What you won’t get in either of      holiday. In a camper van, it’s just
into the gloom, and I realised I was   especially for children. On the        Campervan Rentals, is ideal for     but at their ends is the essence of    those, however, is the chance to        another day.
completely, unashamedly                mainland, landscapes alter at a        young families or outdoorsy         the state — the great outdoors.        see some of the strangest limited-

                                                                                                                                                                                                   TRAVEL TIP
besotted with touring Tasmania         maddeningly slow pace. Spend           couples. Typically, it has a high      More than 40 per cent of            edition creatures on the planet
by camper van.                         the same time in Tasmania and an       roof for standing room and a        Tasmania is set aside as a national    illuminated by a campfire —
   The signs that this could be the    ever-changing slideshow of             simple kitchen. Motorhomes are a    park or reserve, and in most you’ll    Tasmanian devils, hedgehog-like
start of something big had been        scenery scrolls past your              considerable step up in comfort —   find a bushcamp. The birthright of      echidnas that emerge from the             The website of Parks & Wildlife
there all along. Spend time behind     windows. You can be driving            not least because they have a loo   every Tasmanian is to sit beneath      bush with a sailor’s roll, cuddly-        (www.parks.tas.gov.au), the
the wheel and you soon realise         through paddocks and colonial          — but their size puts some          a star-filled southern hemisphere       looking wombats, pademelons,              Rough Guide to Tasmania or
that Tasmania and the camper           farming villages in mid-morning,       backroads out of reach.             sky without forking out so much        spotted quolls like fat stoats in         booklet Free Camping in
van are made for each other. This      then find yourself twisting deep        Conversely, a four-wheel-drive      as a cent. Should the mood take        patterned pyjamas. Not even the           Tasmania — you’ll find it in
is a state where traffic jams are       into ancient rainforest for a picnic   camper will take you into the       you, you can settle gratis at places   PlayStation generation can resist         state bookshops — are useful
unheard of and scenic roads            canopied by tree ferns.                remotest corners of the state.      such as the Caribbeanesque Bay         Bennetts wallabies that lope              starting points for locating
slalom along coastlines and              By dusk you’ve settled in for the      However you go, a hotel on        of Fires or Cockle Creek, literally    around your van at dusk.                  bush camps.
valleys — touring country, in other    night behind a powder beach            wheels transforms Tasmania into     the end of the road in Australia,         After a night of free
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2010   |                                                                                                                                                                                                   | 15

        For great Tasmania holiday ideas, go to
        www.tailor-made.co.uk                                                                                                                                        Distributed with The Daily Telegraph   TASMANIA



DON’T
EXPECT
IT EASY,
RIDER
BLAZING SADDLES It’s exhilarating and
it’s hair-raising, and there’s nothing to beat
getting on your bike, says James Stewart



I
        t’s often easier the faster you
        go,” my guide Ian Ferrier said.
        “The bike gains its own
        momentum and helps…” I had
        stopped listening. Going faster on
the hairpins that snaked down Ben
Lomond mountain did not seem
particularly wise to this mountain-bike
virgin. Suddenly, Tasmania’s second
highest mountain didn’t seem the ideal
initiation to going off-road.
   Aficionados have long ranked
Tasmania in Australia’s premier pedalling
country. International pros churn across
its wild west every other year in the
Wildside MTB race and the national
mountain bike team has been based here
since 2007.                                                                                                      mountain-biking basics. “And don’t use        Wheel life: riders     muscles. As I mashed between low gears, Bill
   But for your average visiting pedaller,                                                                       the back brake,” he advised. “She’ll lock     on the Mount           shouted out the wildlife ahead: an echidna,
mountain biking usually means the Mount                                                                    up and slide out on the gravel.”                    Wellington             startled Bennetts wallabies and a copperbelly
Wellington Descent in Hobart — fun but a           shoes. I was in jeans and Blundstone boots.             Not a good idea when only a guardwire               Descent in             snake that I’d taken for a branch. He remarked
softer-option ride, much of it on Tarmac.          “But you’ll be better protected when you come        separates you from oblivion.                           Hobart, above;         later on the views. The views?
   Mountain Bike Tasmania’s Ben Lomond             off,” Bill pointed out. Come off? On a mountain         Seven-hundred metres and several white-             Ben Lomond, left          Maybe it was the mud, maybe the
Descent, on the other hand, hares down             side? At 1,300 metres?                               knuckle corners later, we reunited at a lookout.                              determination to survive, but I barely lifted my
Jacob’s Ladder, an unsurfaced road that winds        Still, it was a beautiful place to bow out. From   I had arrived long after Bill and Ferrier. At first I                          eyes from the terrain ahead. There was too
itself into tight knots.                           our vantage point at the lip of the helter-          inched. Then I accelerated. Then I slithered                                  much to think about so the views could wait.
   Beyond lies a forest track before you emerge    skelter, a forested panorama rolled to the Bass      through loose gravel in jolts of adrenalin and                                   Yet somewhere over 26 kilmetres, this city-
mud-spattered and, hopefully, happy                Strait drenched in astoundingly luminous light.      raw fear. Now endorphins popped and fizzed in                                  cyclist morphed into a trail junkie. A kilometre
somewhere near Blessington. Twenty-six             Just below eye level a pair of sea eagles rode a     a private fireworks display somewhere in my                                    descent in three hours? No sweat, what’s next,
kilometres. Three hours. Mostly downhill. No       thermal. It seemed a shame to leave, especially      brain.                                                                        I asked. Ferrier suggested the King of the
cars, no Tarmac. No worries, Ferrier promised.     with Tasmania’s highest pub pulling cold ones           Jacob’s Ladder, it transpired, was the easy                                Mountains. The annual race follows much of
   Saddled up at 1,450 metres, I wasn’t so sure.   in a ski lodge close behind us.                      bit. The technical stuff came on a dirt trail                                 our route — in reverse. The record is one hour
Ferrier aside, my cycling partner was a wiry         No such hesitation for Bill. He was already        through the forest beyond.                                                    15 minutes.
middle-aged man named Bill. Bill was clad in       screaming towards hairpin number one by the             Rooty and rocky, this was single-track riding                                 At the moment, I think that might be a
Lycra, high-tec jacket and strange cycling         time Ferrier had finished a heads-up on               that engaged your mind as much as it did your                                 challenge I’ll consider next year.




                                                                          FISHING AND GOLF
                                                                          I   t’s no empty fisherman’s boast to say that
                                                                              Tasmania is one of the most outstanding
                                                                              trout-fishing locations on the planet. Ever
                                                                          since 1864, when live brown trout eggs were
                                                                          successfully introduced from England,
                                                                                                                               Hot spots include Arthurs Lake, Great Lake,
                                                                                                                               Brumbys Creek, and the Macquarie, Meander,
                                                                                                                               South Esk, Derwent and Huon rivers.
                                                                                                                                 If the trout fail to tickle your fancy, why not
                                                                                                                               try a different angle? Sea fishing, from beach
                                                                                                                                                                                    unspoilt coastline also makes it the perfect
                                                                                                                                                                                    location for links golf, and Barnbougle Dunes,
                                                                                                                                                                                    near Bridport on the north coast, doesn’t
                                                                                                                                                                                    disappoint. Recently ranked 35th best course
                                                                                                                                                                                    in the world, it’s a wild, daunting challenge in
                                                                          Tasmania’s cool, clean rivers, streams and           or boat, can be very productive, with black          the mould of St Andrews and, like its illustrious
                                                                          lakes have provided the ideal habitat for these      bream providing excellent sport — and                role model, is completely open to the public.
                                                                          finicky breeders, allowing them to thrive and         marvellous eating — on light tackle. And, if size      Golfing traditionalists will be thrilled to step
                                                                          quickly spread throughout the entire island.         really does matter, there’s always the exciting      back in time with the square greens, grazing
                                                                            With the wild population supported by a            option of big-game fishing, with mako shark,          sheep and honesty box of Ratho in Boswell.
                                                                          successful stocking policy, Tasmania is now          400lb-plus marlin, and huge bluefin tuna all          The oldest known course existing outside of
                                                                          a mecca for the serious fly fisherman, its             regularly landed in Tasmanian waters.                Scotland, you can augment Ratho’s tricky links
                                                                          crystal-clear waters offering the ideal                However, if swinging a club appeals more           challenge by opting to swish with the old-style,
                                                                          opportunity for sighting and stalking those          than casting a line, Tasmania’s glory is its         hickory-shafted clubs on hire at the pro shop.
  Tight lines: trout fishing is unsurpassed                                large, elusive, once-in-a-lifetime brownies.         wealth of scenic nine-hole golf courses. The                                               Paul Carroll
16   |                                                                                                |   SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2010


                                                                                  Þ For more information on Tasmania, visit
TASMANIA   Distributed with The Daily Telegraph                                                 www.discovertasmania.co.uk




                                                  Travelling to
                                                    Tasmania
                                                     GETTING THERE is made easy with
                                                     Tailor Made Travel, who can create the
                                                     perfect itinerary to suit just you


                                                     A
                                                                   ussie specialist        and May, when most of the
                                                                   Tailor Made Travel      wilderness tours operate,
                                                                   creates itineraries     although the winter provides
                                                                   based on your           many reasons to visit especially
                                                                   interests and           for keen wildlife spotters.
                                                     budget. Driving is a dream in           Hobart is the second driest
                                                     Tasmania so a self-guided tour is     city in Australia, and the east
                                                     a popular option, although you        coast enjoys mild, sunny
                                                     may wish to consider being either     winters. However, you can
                                                     partially or fully guided by one of   expect changeable weather at
                                                     Tasmania’s superb wildlife and        any time in the highlands and on
                                                     nature experts.                       the densely forested west coast.
                                                       Don’t be tempted to hurry;
                                                     despite its compact size and          Þ A 12-day Best of Tasmania
                                                     empty roads, distances can be         self-drive tour with Tailor Made
                                                     deceptive especially in the more      Travel costs from £899
                                                     remote areas. For an in-depth         including 11 nights’
                                                     tour of Australia’s only island       accommodation and car hire.
                                                     state and to experience its           Flights to Hobart via Melbourne
                                                     icons, plan to visit for 10 to 14     with Qantas from £915 (based
                                                     days. Shorter tours on east- or       on travel between April 16 and
                                                     west-coast itineraries can be         June 20, 2010).
                                                     arranged.
                                                       Keen walkers may wish to            Þ For further information on
                                                     take advantage of one of the          holidays in Tasmania, contact
                                                     excellent multi-days walks.           Tailor Made Travel on
                                                     Independent walkers must take         0800 988 5907 or visit
                                                     heed of the Parks and Wildlife        www.tailor-made.co.uk/
                                                     advice — see www.parks.tas.           tasmania
                                                     gov.au
                                                                                           Þ For further general
                                                     WHEN TO GO                            information on getting the most
                                                     Tasmania enjoys its finest             out of visiting Tasmania, go to
                                                     weather between November              www.discovertasmania.co.uk




                                                     WIN A PAIR OF BLUNNIES
                                                     Here’s your chance to win a pair of the famous Blundstone walking
                                                     boots (Blunnies, as they are affectionately known).
                                                       Based in Hobart, Tasmania, since 1870, the family-owned company
                                                     has made the toughest no-nonsense footwear with trademark elastic
                                                     sides — perfect for discovering the
                                                     great outdoors by foot.
                                                       Two pairs of Blunnies are up for
                                                     grabs (his and hers).

                                                     For your chance to
                                                     win, go to
                                                     telegraph.co.uk/
                                                     tasmania
                                                     Terms and conditions apply
                                                     — see the website for details.

                                                     For more information on
                                                     Blundstone Footwear, go to
                                                     www.blundstone.com

				
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