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The latest talk of in the RC Cars arena has been that RC CAr

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									RC CAR Action Contest
The latest talk of in the RC Cars arena has been that RC Car Action wants to see who can build
the flat-out fastest RC machine. The rules are simple and all are invited. Keeping in view inviting
the most eligible contestants, simple laid out guidelines go hand in hand.

A driver or a team can enter any number of cars but chase cars are not allowed. Drivers shall
need to operate their vehicles from a fixed position.

Vehicles need to be wheeling driven only and turbines may be used only if turbine is used for
wheels and not for thrust. Vehicles powered by thrust; jet, rocket, propeller are not allowed but
surely vehicles may be powered by engines or motors of any numbers.

Length of the vehicle strictly needs to be 40 inches but flexibility of rules applies to weight,
chassis configuration and number of wheels.

Looks can kill but the person who shall be sitting inside to kill should be visible. That’s what the
contest asks for. It needs to have cockpit area with windows to show a person sitting inside. If the
cockpit area rules is complied with then the overall all design may look like a sitting duck and no
questions shall be asked.

Vehicle with the long run gets an edge. Those that are designed to run only for a single time are
not allowed. Cars with sacrificial run or power systems good for one time run are not permitted.

Well, this is not all…! Your vehicle must be traceable at all times. This means that it should carry
a commercially available FM radio gear with functioning fail safe system set to apply full brake in
the event of single loss or interference.

Categories for all participants have been truly outlined as Manufacturer team, Independent team
and Individual. Those fielded by RC companies shall run as Manufacturers team. Students from
engineering background, entrepreneurs, or whoever makes up a group of three without the
support of a manufacturer can enter as Independent team. And lastly, the one who owns all the
credits for design, manufacture, ingenuity, class and all, yet stands alone shall be eligible to enter
as an Individual.

The competition shall give a fair chance to everyone to make three attempts for the fastest run
through and electronic speed trap. The one GIZMO vehicle with overall highest peak speed shall
be declared as the overall winner. But to give due credits for manufacturing, team work and
individuality each category shall also carry awards for fastest vehicle in each category.

But the array of awards does not end there. Special awards are also lined up for “Most innovative
Design”, “Fastest Production car”, “Fastest Engine-Powered Car” and “Fastest Electric Car”.

If you have true cells of creativity popping up in your brain area then you might surprisingly bag
some creativity prizes too. Although these prizes are not officially announced; but may be given
on the spot to acknowledge and support creative architectures.
                                         st
The event is not scheduled before 1           June 2005 but the spot is destined to be Irwindale
Speedway in Irwindale, CA.

So all you guys gear up all your creativity and power your brain cells with high speed designs to
impress the judges for your little speeding RC jets.

(547 words)
Problem with Nitro Car Engine

If you nitro car engine runs fine but does not move that means something in the drive train has
come in lose. Best option would be to first check the rear wheels. Ensure in the rear wheels if the
nuts that fixes them to the axel are in place. If nuts are loose then axel may keep moving in its
place but the wheels may not get the enough gear to move.

If rear wheels and their attachment to axel is okay then it would be a good idea to check the
inward drive shafts to the differential case. If there are universal joints at the differential case, they
are attached with small screw sets. These screw sets might be one of the reasons that they may
give problem with the moving of the car. The set screws hold the drive joint onto the small stub
shafts that protrude from the case. If these shafts are loosened then the stub shaft will spin but
the drive joint will not. The set screw shall need to be on to that flat portion of the shaft to align the
same with the drive joint. To get access to the set screw it may be required to dissemble the
suspensions a little.

Moving along these lines; mostly the car starts working fine. But if the problem still persists, it
might be possibility that the main gear needs to be inspected. Inspect the main gear to ensure
that it is tight on the shaft. When a slipper clutch is loose, the main gear will turn but the power
will not be transferred to the gear box. This can be easily seen when the engine is operating. If
you view that the gears turn but the shaft does not then it means that the slipper clutch is loose.
The main gear needs to be tightened on the shaft and the problem shall be solved.

These suggestions work best with the gas powered model cars. But they are not limited to them
only. Applying the above inspection rules may solve problems with most of the cards and the
wheels may set rolling.

These problems occur mostly with gas powered remote control racing cars. This is due to the
reason that the vibration of the engine tends to loosen the nuts, bolts or screwing of the chassis
etc. this loosening might give some problem although the initial working model might have been
picture perfect. But after a speed run some check back are always due to avoid such problems.

It would in the best interest of the car model and for the driver also to always give a one and half
hour inspection to the model after every four hours of run. This maintenance always keeps the
model set right and ready to speed up. Usually Nitro based models require fairly high degree of
maintenance to the vehicle. This is due to the reason that Nitro Remote Control car go 1/8th scale
off-road single speed average 30-40 MPH. 2-Speed averages to be 40-50 MPH. Trucks average
25-35 MPH. Speeds can be variable depending upon environmental conditions, motor size,
tuning, gearing, clutch bell size, etc.

So taking care of Nitro engines might not be such a great task but a regular maintenance along
with regular care should do the wonder.

(552 words)
Do-it-yourself Help on RC Cars
Not everyone is a engineering geek and even if one is then sometimes a quick tip or a helping
advice is always welcome. We all want some kind of help on how to keep all unwanted particles
coming into your car. A simple remedy to the same can be securing your air filter. Anther option
can be to buy du-bro body clip retainers and make sure that they remain clipped and do not get
loose.

Sometimes your car may act fancy. Like if you turn on your car, it keeps steering to one side. This
may happen even if you keep the wheels straight. A good idea in this case would be to give a
check if your car has a “steering trim” knob/wheel/button option. If there is none then may be
adjusting steering servo armature length should do the trick.

A lot of dirt gets accumulated under the chassis and the most to get affected are the screw
heads. To get clean and sparkling screw heads under the chassis, spray denatured alcohol on
screw heads and then pick the dirt with the help of paper clip. It is an effective way to clean your
screw heads that are packed with dirt enough so that your hex driver can have enough meat to
grab on. It is recommended to use denatured alcohol as it seems to work better than the simple
green or motor cleaner.

Compressed air also works better for cleaning NTC3after a good day bashing. But an old sock
always does the trick to clean your car sparkling and shining. The soft wool or cotton wipes off the
dirt like magic. But one has to be sure not leave any lose socks thread going into the car. A small
painter brush always cleans unreachable areas and cleans them gently. To wipe of sticky mud
under the chassis or on the body of the car using a toothbrush to brush it off also helps. But make
sure not to scratch you car paint with a too hard brush bristles.

Keeping spare starter batteries and giving a rain check on your tx, rx, glow starts before going out
with your car also helps. This is a must when your batteries or lights etc have been in use for a
while.

If you want an alternative way out to shut down the engine in comparison to du-bro exhaust plug
you can use a pencil to plug the exhaust to shut down the engine fast. Everyone uses the cable
tie trick to fasten the bec plug together so they do not get disconnected accidentally. But this does
not seem practical because every time you have to cut the tie and use a new one to recharge the
cells. To overcome this problem, a simple solution is to replace the cable ties with the twist tie
that holds your rx antenna. They are reusable and do the job perfectly.

 Drilling your tires on the outside edge in the middle, instead of the rim, keeps the dust and other
crap out of your tires. They'll stay in balance a lot longer as crud gets thrown out as you drive. If
you drill the rims, then every bit o crap will stay in your wheel.

To make your own chassis, blank circuit board or an aluminum plate does a great job. Use vise
grips to clamp the original chassis to the blank material and drill all your holes by drilling straight
through the existing holes on the original chassis. You'll get everything to mount up nice that way!
If you bother that the circuit board might be too light. No fret!. It is more or less like a fiber glass
board and work well as top plate on bigger cars too.

(626 words)
Handy tips for RC cars
Handy tips for Remote Control cars are always welcome for the newbie. Those especially not
from an engineering background but pursue driving remote control cars as hobby is always on a
look out for some handy tips.

By putting Velcro on the bottom of the radio and also at the top of the toolbox, you can stick the
radio that way and walk off coolly to your speeding alley of your car.

By using 5 to 10 ohm ceramic resistors in your starter box, you can make your own glow plug
driver. Over the time 10 ohms had been good but now supposedly they have degraded adding
another in parallel should do the job.

Saving the paint in fast racing car has always been problems. A quick solution to the long
standing problem can be to put tape inside the body where things might rub

One can spool planetary differences by just flipping 2 opposing planet gears.

Make a pigtail for your charger with all the different connectors you use. This way the TX, Rx,
deans, power pole, and alligator can be clipped all in one off the charger.

One can put a ziptie on for body clips, or clips in general, and for fuel tanks as well.

If there is more than one car, that uses a removable radio tray like HPI, instead of buying 2 sets
of electronics, stitching the radio tray in and out does the trick. It takes a little more time, but
saves money.

When you buy a new chassis and the old on is not badly damaged if at all, one can make
something out of it, like a radio tray or something that may be used as another car part. Using old
car part is always a part of creativity. You may never know if you would surprise some judge in a
participating contest.

Something as simple as a silly putty can also become a must presence in the tool box. It serves
several purposes. It seals the receiver from dirt, dust and moisture.It also insolates and holds car
wiring in place. It works great as a different lock. It also helps make custom chassis. It really helps
to make mould out of the part that needs to be fit in every time. To add a part, a thin layer of putty
can be laid down, press the piece that needs to be fit in onto the putty. Lifting the piece off will
leave an impression of the part and its bolt pattern Once the center is punched and drilled, the
part will fit perfect every time.

Putting a small piece of zip tie down the hole of a stripped plastic part will hold the screw in place
till it is replaced with a new one.

To goose the runtime of remote control car the simple trick is to charge them multiple times. If you
put your remote control car on charging and take off the plug two- three times then it might give
you a good run time because the battery gets charged all over again. But doing it umpteen times
might prove lethal to battery life.

(526 words)
Remote Control Car Motors
All types of racing cars have different types of motors. Some have single or some have double. It
is really confusing to try to sort out the difference between a single our double motor car. Plus a
newbie into the world of remote control cars gets easily disoriented with what is a 13 turn double
or a 13 turn single…?

Well, in plain speaking language it refers to number of times the wires are wrapped around the
armature. A 13 turn double would be 2 strands wrapped 13 times. A 13 turn single would be 1
wire wrapped 13 times. The double wires have more torque where as single wires have more
speed. In general, it means that more turns means more torque but less speed and vice versa.
That’s lower turns means lower torque and greater RPM. The number of winds describes how
abruptly the motor accelerates. Fewer winds would mean less abrupt acceleration and more
winds would lead to smoother accelerations.

Torque basically refers to how much a force is acting on motor that causes motor to rotate. If
there is more than one force acting on a motor then each of these forces shall apply torque. The
net torque acting upon the motor shall be the sum total of all the forces or torques acting upon a
motor. It is usually required for cars racing on the twisted tracks.

Remote control cars come with two kinds of motors: the ones with brush and ones without i.e.
Brushless. The brushless motor has windings located around the outside of the motor and the
magnets are located on the moving motor shaft. A brushless motor does not provide any friction
therefore provides higher RPM. But a brushless requires a lot of processing power that’s why it
has not been a great success with RC trucks or cars.

The slot less and brushless motors are third generation motors. With slot less design, motor can
achieve higher efficiency, torque, fast response time and longer life time with greater with zero
maintenance. Cogging problem is also eliminated even at lower speed operation. But since there
is a lot of research and development involved in their development they come out as expensive
solution in case of RC cars.

There are also sensor less and motors with sensors. Sensor motors are older technology with
less cogging, less rpm and less power. On the other hand sensor less motors are newer
technology with more power and more rpm. Both have difference of cogging on start up. This can
prove to be a little troublesome when you are in a race. It seems like forever for a sensor motor to
start up. But sensor less motor gives smoother throttle response, efficient running and a fewer
wires to mess up with.

Remote control cars have a lot to do with the motors and their functioning. When preparing for a
race, checking out on motors can be really helpful. If your car is heavy then may be a motor with
more torque would be required. A speedy light action racer would need a greater rpm.
Connections and wires to all the motors need to be properly fixed and checked. If you have some
cash to spare for the race then going in for the slot less motor can be good idea.

(552 words)
Greasing the bearings in RC Cars
Some of the models use propelling kind of gears that look flashy and gives the look of a
spaceship or may be a helicopter. Well this all has come into play for the reason that these days
the judges in the car racing events have started looking for ingenuity and creativity of designs that
not only makes the models look like state-of-art machines but designs also add to the speed and
enhances motor performances.

But in the end all kinds of models require regular maintenance. Whoever has been into the play of
remote control cars or trucks has been required to do regular maintenance. Those with such
flashy car models or extra creative accessories or power enhancers on their models they need to
take care of the bearings used in such models. Greasing, oiling, cleaning, managing, salvaging,
inspecting the bearings and to grease the bearings thus becomes a part and parcel of regular car
maintenance.

One needs to ensure that the bearings are fully packed with fresh grease for longest life
expectancy while doing the building, repairing or re-building the RC car or truck. Any a bearing
will increase the drag slightly the bearings will feel a little dragged compared to a new bearing, In
other words a bearing in a clutch support block turning at 10,000 rpm, will expel more grease than
a main shaft bearing turning at 1700 rpm. A bearing with no grease will have very low
resistance....for a while; same for an oiled bearing. A greased bearing that has grease that stays
in it, at an adequate amount, will out perform an improperly lubed bearing, both in longevity an
smoothness.

Most new bearings seem to have a minimum of grease and very light duty grease as well. It
should be noted that the bearing manufacturers have no idea where that bearing will end up,
consequently low viscosity grease is used. These "stock" greases are "gone" in some instances
or in a matter of minutes of running. In other areas they are diluted easily with fuel residues and
also cleaning fluids.

Greases come with different kind of bases. Some use Lithium base while others are Aluminum
oxide based grease, Teflon grease or Silicon Grease. But the one using Aluminum oxide, Teflon,
or Silicon give out easily on high speed, high heat and high centrifugal force bearings. One of the
reasons behind the same is low viscosity factor existing with commercial grease.

Oiling the bearings that have been greased is not really a very good idea as this would tend to
wash out and also lower the viscosity of the grease in the bearing, allowing it to be expelled from
the bearing much more quickly. Oiling the bearings would inevitably invite dirt also in the
machine. Low viscosity grease, which is what seems to be in new bearings, will tend to break
down to an even lower viscosity when subjected to all of this. This can also lead to dirty residue
"seeping" into the bearing.

When bearings need to be totally cleaned, use of mineral spirits is recommended. But while using
solvent it should be done where appropriate ventilation is available and using glasses is also
recommended to avoid solvent getting into the eyes. It should be cautioned never to use
compressed air to blow the bearings into high speeds. This can cause the bearings to expel the
balls as high speed projectiles. New bearing should be cleaned with lint free cloth on both sides
before greasing. The expelled grease should be discarded so as not to contaminate grease with
your bearings.

In the end it is recommended to use the type of grease for an RC car depending upon its end
use. A car on off road running would tend to use high viscosity grease where as one running on
clean environment would do good even with low viscosity grease.
(644 words)
Taking Care of your Nitro Car
Nitro cars are everyone’s passion. But at the same time they require regular maintenance. A
small touch up and little handling would increase car life and bag more accolades in racing
events.

To clean Nitro car the most appropriate thing is to use a Denatured Alcohol in a plastic spray
bottle. Nitro cleaners available at the local hardware stores can also be used. It is always helpful
to have some kind of compressed air source for air drying the car and also to blow your car clean.

Air filter also needs regular cleaning. Usually you can make out when it needs cleaning but every
five tanks is what is needed. One can wash it with soapy water or with a nitro fuel and reapply the
air filter oil. But it may not be such a good idea to clean the air filter element. This is because
there lies a fair chance that dirt can get washed into the foam element where it may get sucked
into the engine. And meddling with engine is truly not advisable, isn’t it..? Although it may be okay
to wash outer foam element in case of two stage air filter but never the inner. The best way is
never to wash the foam elements. It is always advisable to replace them.

Always check out if the engine is too hot. If there is a nice stream of smoke coming out of the
exhaust then it might be a case that your engine is fuming. Better option is to buy a temperature
gun make sure that the engine runs between 220F – 260F. It is always better to run on the rich
side unless one wants to regularly replace engines.

It would be a nice idea to glue the tires to the rims. This seems like the easiest and the cheapest
idea to get the maximum performance out of your tires. Glue can be bought easily from any of the
local It may seem expensive that you might need to buy a new pair of rim for every new pair of
tires but in the long run one would find out that it is worth.

There may be several ways of stopping the engine as well. You can pinch a fuel line, plug the
exhaust or stop the fly wheel with the shoe. Stopping the fly wheel with the thumb is the best way
out though. It does not drain or flood the engine. But one has to make sure to leave the piston at
the bottom of the stroke.

Or checking the speed of the Nitro car radar is nice option. If you are looking for cheaper option
then stop watch may be the solution. Whether it is an RTR or a kit, to prevent the lost screws and
broken parts remove any screws that go into the metal and apply thread lock. Some companies
do it in the factory but some don’t. The only way to make sure that it is done is to do it yourself.
This stops the screws from being vibrated out.

Lastly, if your car had a crash and there seems to be no obvious damage, nonetheless, it would
be good idea to give a complete rain check on it. Check out wheel alignments, bent metal parts,
loosened screws; these should be checked as normal routine. Give a few test runs and look for
any obvious abnormalities that were not visible before the crash.

(573 words)

Break in procedure for Nitro Engine
A good break in procedure is always a treasured knowledge for taking care of a Nitro Engine. The
“heat cycling” is one of the kind that is good for breaking in. Start the engine and let it idle, after
one or two minutes feel the cylinder head. It should be hot enough that you are not able to hold it
for more than 10 seconds. Stop the engine and make sure that piston is at the bottom of the
stroke. Let it cool down completely. It should be stone cold. Repeat the procedure several times,
may be 10-12 timely. It might look like tiring procedure but one needs to have patience. This
procedure is usually dedicated to first tank of fuel.

Now take it out and run it. Open the main needle one full turn. The nest four tanks should not run
more than half throttle the speed should be varied up and down. Let it also cool down completely
but every time one has to ensure that piston is at the bottom of the stroke at the time of cooling. It
would be a good idea if the engine runs at 200 degree range during this period.

Next would be four more tanks running up to three-fourth throttle but the manner should be same
as stated earlier. After this you one can go wide open and go in for another six tanks. These
engines run best at 220 to 240 degrees plus a visible line of smoke should always be coming
from the exhaust stinger.

If one has patience and take time for break in procedure then one is rewarded with engine that is
stronger and runs longer than others put together.

Some thing should be kept in mind while doing the break-in especially with the heat method. It
would not be advisable to start the engine with the electric starter. Before starting up the engine a
nice suggestion would be to cover up the cooling head with something so the engine heats up
properly. This is because without the cover the engine may remain cold. Then start the engine
and let it run rich at full throttle for 2-tanks at a temperature of eighty degrees Centigrade. Then
two more engines to run at ninety and one more at hundred degrees.

After this the engine is almost run-in but you shall need to finish the run-in with two more tanks
after this. After such a patient procedure the car would be ready to run.

For starting a break-in read all the information available. Information never hurts, on the contrary
it might help. Further, be very patient with the whole procedure of break-in. Start breaking-in
patiently. Many people recommend using 10-20% nitro for breaking –in and to stick with the same
fuel for the life of the engine. There fore special break-in fuel might not be really necessary.

(478 words)
BUYING A NITRO CAR
Nitro cars look cool. It’s a pride to own one and looks great on road and off road. But they do cost
a lost as well. Well, in order not to land up with a piece of crap or spend way too much on a
simple model, some tips should be kept in mind.

For a beginner stadium trucks or monster trucks can be great fun. But monster trucks are not as
fast as stadium trucks. Nitro Stadium trucks nail down to 50-60 mph and can take huge jumps but
tear up some asphalt. Buggies are also pretty much like stadium trucks. HPI MT2 18SS seems to
be a pretty good truck. If you've never had a high powered nitro or electric car before, you might
want to start with a 4wd car. They're much easier to control.

HPI kits are easy to use and readily available. They are fairly popular too. Another plus point for
the same is help for them is also readily available. With an RTR kit you get a decent radio and the
car for a decent price. It is always advisable to find a manufacturer that has good following. It
leads you to find parts, hop ups, technical advice, etc easily available. Parts for HPI kits are also
readily available.

While buying kits there might some other things that need to be bought along with the kit or
separately. Most of the time, the kits come with a car and a motor only. Some more advanced
models come without motor at all. The RTR kits usually come with a radio and actually do not
require much building up. They are like 97% completely built. On needs to buy a nitro fuel though
especially for the Remote Control cars. Keep a check not to end up buying a Nitro Fuel for a
Remote control Plane.

A glow plug igniter is also required. They come in various different shapes and kinds but more or
less all are same but some come with a meter to show how much of fuel is left. A fuel bottle is
also necessary. They are not an absolute necessary but make pouring fuel into he tank much
easily than out of a one gallon can. Investing in a good air filter is always a wise decision. This
would make up all the necessary things while buying a Nitro car.

Other handy stuff that may come in useful should be tucked in a fishing tackle box. This would
include things likes screw drivers, a cleaning sock, needle nose pliers, some spare screws, glues
etc. Put all these things in bunch of slots to make it a little more organized.

If you have had some experience with RC cars earlier then build-it-up kits are also advisable.
Build-it-yourself and unassembled kits generally have higher quality stuff and one can put own
stuff along with the engine and other stuff. This is more advisable for people who have already
had some equipment and move from one model to another. So the cost drops after the initial
investment. This also helps to know your kit in and out and makes you more familiar with your
vehicle.

(530 words)
SOME NITRO MODELS
Nitro Models are one of the most fashionable things to own. They look great anywhere either on
road or off road. Every day manufacturers are launching new models in the market but it’s a good
idea to take a look at some of the existing ones in the market.

The new Traxxas Jato is is TRaxxas new Stadium Truck. It is supposed to have the best speed in
class along with best acceleration in the class. It also comes with two speed transmission. It also
has LSD plus zero bump suspension. This suspension keeps your car from swerving around the
bumps it hits. It also offers electric start. Although the model is two wheels drive but it actually
accelerates fine with just two wheels. xxxNT RTR is also a good model and everything needed to
start up with the model is included in the box.
                                                                             th
The SY GT10 series are slightly longer and wider than the normal 1/10 scale giving excellent
scale looks and handling. They are fast models. They come with ready to run with Fatuba RC
system installed and a high performance 17 size 3.0 cc Pro series force Nitro engine pushing out
38000 RPM.

The Super 10 Porsche 911 Turbo and The Super 10 Subaru Impreza WRX are high performance
pre built models with .17 Nitro Engine and pull starter. They come with high performance
differential with six bevel gears. The heavy duty fiber glass gives fast and smooth braking. The
Quick-fill fuel tank comes with built-in primer pump. They have 2.5mm aluminum alloy blue
anodized countersunk chassis and RC tray with a fully-adjustable chamber and toe-in. Adjustable
suspensions adjust the height of the chassis The scale lexan hundred percent assembled body
comes with four Hydraulic shock absorbers The Gwise RC system is supplied and installed in
these models. They have two speed auto transmissions so that the models have more than
speeds 50mph. The models have full spare parts service and many upgrades available. They are
also suitable for 21 engine conversion.

Stadium trucks or monster trucks can are one sure beauty. Stadium trucks are faster than
monster trucks. Nitro Stadium trucks nail down to 50-60 mph and can take huge jumps but tear
up some asphalt. Buggies are also pretty much like stadium trucks. HPI MT2 18SS seems to be a
pretty good truck. The all-new Revo is an engineering marvel that blends innovative thinking,
sophisticated technology and high-tech materials to create the world’s most advanced monster
truck. Backed by nearly 2 years of research and development, Revo is packed with revolutionary
new design concepts and benchmark driving performance. Never before has so much forward-
thinking technology converged on an R/C model. Revo is for the driver/enthusiast who is ready to
make the break from the status quo and experience the precision-engineered total performance
that only a Revo can deliver.
                                                                        th
Talking of buggies after the monster and Stadium Trucks, AX5 1/8 Nitro Buggy RTR is an
expensive model in the market. The kit comes fitted as standard with components that are usually
add on / option parts on so many other more expensive kits. But this can be the ultimate off road
machine for a serious buggy racer. It has anodized countersunk alloy main chassis shock towers
and top plate along with high capacity oil filled anodized shock absorbers.

(553 Words)
Engine Tuning Tips
Engine is the heart and hub of any machine. Its functioning needs to be understood very clearly
before touching any of its part. A basic understanding of fundamentals would help in better tuning
of the engine and in turn engine would give maximum performance and also shall have better
longevity.

Glow engines can prove difficult to tune, this is the most prevalent myth. With a little bit of know-
how, tuning a glow engine can really be a simple, pain-free process. People that don't properly
understand the basics can easily become frustrated by what should be a simple, straightforward
process.

Let us assume that everything else in the car is in shape and the engine is not giving any start up
problems. Then refer to the instruction manual which should specify the instructions to set up
your aperture size to minimum. This is important because if your engine cannot get enough air or
gas flow then It would not run properly. A clockwise rotation opens the aperture and increases the
idle RPMs, a counterclockwise slows it down.

Next would come to tuning of low-end mixture valve. This is done before the high-end (main
needle) adjustment because an improperly adjusted low-end can affect the high-end
performance. Like most mixture valves, clockwise rotation will "lean" the mixture and a
counterclockwise will "richen" the mixture. Allow the engine to warm up completely, and then
allow it to idle, uninterrupted for one full minute. This would determine whether the low-end
mixture requires any tuning or not. If the engine runs continuously then the mixture needs not
any adjustments but this means that the mixture is either too rich or too-low. Check out on that.

To determine whether the mixture is too rich or too lean, listen as to how the engine dies out in
the idle test. If the engine’s RPM revs up at the last moment and then engine dies the mixture is
too lean. To correct this, turn the low-end mixture screw counterclockwise (out) 1/8 of a turn
(always make adjustments in 1/8 turn) and retry the idle test. If, on the other hand, it begins to
wind down and you notice a change in how the exhaust sounds in the last few seconds, then your
engine is running too rich. To correct this, turn the low-end mixture screw clockwise (in) 1/8 of a
turn and then retry the idle test.

The air and the fuel pass into the engine through vacuum method. The mechanism that is
responsible to pass this fuel and air in specific proportion is the carburetor. Adjusting the
carburetor would ensure how much of this gas/air mixture reaches the engine and to what
proportion of gas to air passes on to the engine. By reducing the amount of fuel per volume of air,
the mixture would be come – lean; and by increasing the amount of fuel the mixture would
become – rich.

Most of the changes would not be visible for sometime. You shall need to give a dry run to the
engine before the adjustments to take place and be visible. Running on lean side may give
temporary thrill but running the engine on the rich side would give better engine performance.
Changes in temperature also affect the tuning. Change in temperature or weather condition would
require tuning of engine.

Along with increased experience in learning the "Sounds" of a glow engine and use of a quality
temperature gauge, will make you an Ace at tuning your engine... Tuning your Models engine is
not "rocket science" and is fairly easy once you completely understand the how the carburetor
works and the effects it has on your engines performance and sound. With some time and
experience, it will become second nature to you... just be patient and perspective and the
knowledge you gain will take the voodoo out of this great hobby.

(642 words)
SOME COMMON QUESTIONS FOR RC CARS
Entering into the world of RC cars leads to some common questions that may be asked by a
newbie or may be an old hand at RC Cars may require some off the cuff tips. While buying an RC
car one is often faced with terms like kit and RTR. Kits usually come with better parts, but
sometimes do not include engine and radio. RTR's or Ready-to-run compensates parts for labor,
since they come as assembled. An example of this is the NTC3. The kit does not include radio or
engine, but includes aluminum threaded shocks, a two speed, and better tires. Kits let you see
how the car goes together, and helps you when you break something, since you know what does
what. There might be a difference of opinion on this but finally it is up to an individual to decide as
to what suffices his needs best.

Many a times people who have been into RC car hobbies feel like upgrading or switching to high
performance models or part for their RC cars to trucks. Once you can out drive your current car
setup or if you have broken the part, its time for an upgrade or switch to high performance parts.
Too often newbie’s think they have to have the best out there to do better, which is often not the
case. One needs to know that just having the best model does not mean being the best owner in
the town. Even old models with some better parts or regular maintenance of old part can give
better performances and longevity of the models.

It might also be a bit confusing to choose between a 2WD and 4WD. A 2WD is easier to maintain
and cost less to purchase, but it will take more time to learn how to handle your truck in turns. A
4WD will give power and traction in these turns, but the draw back is the cost and maintenance.

While tuning engine one is often faced with difference between the low end mixture and high end
mixture. The low end mixture adjustments adjust the mixture at or near idle. Engines that lack this
have less accurate tuning. On the other hand, high end mixture adjustment is the main needle
adjustment or the primary fuel adjustment. They are found at the top of the engine.

For cleaning your RC car, denatured alcohol works great, like a degreaser. But all care must be
taken that it does not get on to any of the electronics. If your air filter flies off your car when your
driveling body on or off immediately shut the motor off. Since some dirt might have got into the
engine and could kill your motor and make, you might have to rebuild it or so. Kill the motor. Take
of the carburetor. Check out that nothing has got into your motor. Put some nitro into a old cup
and put your carburetor in it. Let it soak for a little bit. That should get out the dirt. Or you could
blow out your carburetor with an air compressor. Both the ways work equivocally and you can
choose to do any one of them.

If you have to choose some good hop-ups for your car, then you can have varied choices.
Hardened differentials, a steel spur gear and clutch bell, titanium turn-buckles, aluminum hub
carriers, aluminum knuckles, 2 speed transmission (on-roads) are some of the choices available.

(576 words)
CLEANING AN RC CAR
Every RC car needs cleaning and the most frequent answer to the question about cleaning an RC
car is to use a denatured alcohol taking care that it does not go into any of the electronics parts.
But there might be more than that meets the eye.

Using expensive stuff like Trinity Nitro Blast to clean your car can give great results but one
cannot afford to use it every time after a day at the track. There are various options available that
are just as effective and affordable. Using alcohol in a spray bottle and compressor can be an
option. One has to spray it such that it soaks in but not dry up. Then the dirt can be blown away.

RC Blast spray can leave smell after it dries up so one needs better options to make headway in
cleaning an RC Car. Take a solution of simple green and rubbing alcohol, Special engine cleaner
air tool and an air compressor of any kind. This trick can be done it with your air compressor as
well. If you go to the tracks, quite a number of people are there who bring air compressors and
blow off their R/C with air. Although air compressors works somewhat; but not as much as the
whole trick given here.

Air compressor can be obtained from anywhere, Wal-Mart, Sams, Sears etc for $69 or less. RC
blast costs about 5 dollars. After 10 cans one has spent the same amount of money on an air-
compressor. If you already have one, you are more than halfway there.

Engine cleaner has a pressure valve for the solution adjustment, a hose to suck out the solution
and a pressure regulator (trigger) that you simply push that gives the air. For the solution make a
mixture of 5:1 simple green to water, and then add a small amount of alcohol.

Turn the engine sprayer to where it barely lets out any solution as if it is almost completely shut.
This works great for conserving. It also does not risk any sort of problem with electronics. If done
properly it works well with Nitro all over it and Electric buggy as well. Make sure to blast the area
with bearings. Make the wheels spin from the air and then blast the bearing area again. Once
things are nice and clean, take the hose out of the solution and just use air to dry it.

Since everything was left inside, make sure to not be using really any solution and do not just sit
on the electronics. It takes just a quick once over and the stuff is pretty much cleaned off
completely.

After the whole procedure is over, you would be proud to have an RC that looks much clean that
all the others hard measure put together and back breaking tricks used earlier.

(476 words)
SELECTING A GOOD ENGINE FOR REVO
The all-new Revo is an engineering marvel that blends innovative thinking, sophisticated
technology and high-tech materials to create the world’s most advanced monster truck. Backed
by nearly 2 years of research and development, Revo is packed with revolutionary new design
concepts and benchmark driving performance. Never before has so much forward-thinking
technology converged on an R/C model. Revo is for the driver/enthusiast who is ready to make
the break from the status quo and experience the precision-engineered total performance that
only a Revo can deliver.

Such a good model needs a good engine too. If you would like your Revo to be wheelie crazy
then look for good low and top ends, one with no modifications, either with pull start or EZ bolt
start on.

An OS .18 TM, drops straight in to the Revo and works with the easy start. It is definitely a great
motor with lots of power such that it is hard to keep front wheels on the ground. It is least 3 times
faster than the traxx.

The RB TM323 is a good choice as a direct fit engine and has a lot of power in low and top ends!
It also works with the EZ-start or a Picco .26 Maxx made for the Revo /T-Maxx!!!

Mach .26 Traxxas Big Block conversion runs like a champ and is also just as reliable as 2.5. A
Picco p .21 and Wasp .26 are as fast as each other but the wasp .26 has more power for hills so
its comes down to what you want to spend.

All of these motors except the OS may require a Big Block conversion kit. But that’s something
that needs to be checked out as that adds to the total cost. An RB TM323 comes with a pipe, a
manifold, AND the necessary stuff to mount it.

So whatever engine you choose in the end the power comes into play. Narrow down your choices
according to the best suited needs. It also depends on what tracks you want to run your RC
model. Rough tracks would need high power engines that would need lesser maintenance. If you
choose an engine that is not robust for rough terrains then that would be mean shorter life span of
the model. On the other hand, those models running on cleaner tracks can afford to have engines
that need more care to be taken.

(400 words)
BATTERIES FOR RC CARS
If you had been using been running cheap nimh 6cells 3000mah and also a 7cell nicd 1500mah
battery packs and you though these packs thought were pretty good, here are some wise words
that you had been living in an ignorant bliss.

Trying GP1100 7 cell would make you notice the difference in torque. The wheels would spin on
take off and keep spinning and if you put 6 cell GP2000 you would notice that it is faster than 6
cell 3000Mah

Batteries make all the difference, especially matched packs. Elmo makes GP's available to the
common RC cars for very low prices. They're not matched packs, and they're not priced like
matched packs either. Maxamps are also fine but their packs cost like 6 bucks more than Elmo's.
Maxamps advertises "factory matched" meaning they are within .02v of each other, which is the
difference between a 1.16 and 1.18 cell. So basically they are the same cells as Boom Boom
Batteries.

Boom Boom Batteries are coming out with matched packs. They got the machine setup already
and have to just make some packs. IB3600s have known to have problems with voltages,
lifespans, and run times. The IB3800s are apparently way superior to even the GP 3700s. They
have very high voltages and long run times.

For some time now SPC has been selling 6-cell, matched, loose GP3300s. If you are looking for
2 assembled packs check out their Twin Maxx Pacs. For a reasonable price you get two, 6-cell
matched and assembled packs of GP3300s. Runtimes average around 425 seconds at a 30-amp
discharge. They are great packs with good soldering quality.

7.4v 830mAh Lithium Polymer (Poly-Li) Battery Pack have super high rate - 10-12C and also
superior power and strength that makes you RC car or airplane a true champion. It uses a voltage
of 7.4v and has capacity of 830mAh. It weighs only 1.5 oz. i.e. significantly lighter than NiMh
battery pack. Lighter battery packs makes your engine runs much faster.

4.8V 1600mAh NiMH Battery Packs for RC Toy Cars have a voltage of .8V, 1600 mAh NMH? It
also has a receiver battery for RC car. One gets to enjoy highest capacity and running times. It is
compatible with all Nikko and RadioShack RC Toy cars.

7.2V 3000mAh Sadle Battery Pack for RC Car High quality is 7.2 V, 3000 mAh, saddle shape
battery pack made of matched NiMH cells (6xSc). It rapidly charges up and high drain current up
to 30 Amp. It fits many Losi and HPI RC vehicles. The best buy would be to buy two battery pack
Plus a smart charger to keep your car running. Some precautions need to be taken with its
charger, like not to use the charger for low capacity batteries pack (1100mah) or charge any other
battery using this charger. Similarly, this battery’s charger is not to be used to charge 6V battery
pack over capacity 3000mA or 1500mAh at 1.8A current level.

(500 words)
RC CAR TOYS FOR KIDS
Who would not want to be a part of fantasy of owning a car? Even a child would want to own a
car. Moreover, if you are an RC car enthusiast then there are all the more chances that you kid
would want to be like father. The old saying goes… Like Father-Like Son.

So it would be all the more necessary for the child to own a car and you would also need to take
a look as to what would be the best suitable option for him. You may be an old pro at work but a
child desires and his wants need to be taken care of. Remember he might want to take care of
engine, air filters, carburetor, and spinning wheels just like you do. He might also want the same
speeding car as yours. But the best buy would be the most look alike with functioning that might
or might not resemble yours.

Most of the toys are for kids and allow very little control over the car. If you want to buy it for a
child who would just like to play with it then fine but if you want one for an enthusiast like you then
possibility is that he would get bored with those models fairly quickly.

Toys with limited capabilities are good for children from three to five years of age which can be
handled by the child by himself. These toys require minimum maintenance or care to be taken
since they have limited actions.

But for the older ones a little more is asked for. Micro sized cars or Gyro Helicopters can be a
good choice. They have full control over all directional movement, are sturdy enough and slow enough to
withstand crashes without causing much (if any) damage. Radio Shack's Zip Zaps feature full control over
the cars, come in several collectible versions, have built in frequencies that allow you to join in with up to five
additional cars. Your child might want to create a race team with his friends.

Stuntsters from Tyco RC, like Air Rebound, are almost indestructible when used by children of younger age.
They would be at an age old enough to understand or imitate but lesser inclined to assess the full
implications of working functionalities. The newest in a line of these Stuntsters RC Cars is a blast to play
with.

Remote control Bey-blades are controlled spinning tops that you use to battle others with. They have
become quite popular; and also offer a wide colorful selection. They are not very high priced and come in
your budget too.

The bottom-line is the interactive models are readily available in the market that comes in the
same price range of other static toys. It would be a great idea to introduce the child to such
interactive toys that would give push to their creativity or may be guide them to a new hobby. This
would also be a start for youngsters to get interested in Cars, Trucks, Motorcycles, Helicopters,
etc.

(510 words)
COSTING FACTOR FOR RC MODEL
Well if you thought choosing a model was only a tough job for the ad agencies and brand building
companies; give a rain check on your opinion. Every RC enthusiast one time or the other faces
the question of choosing the RC model whether to go for a Nitro or an Electric Model or to choose
between a Gas and a Battery operated model?

To get a frank opinion on the same it is always better to ask people with various demographic
backgrounds who essentially have a different taste and choices. This makes easier to know the
real pros and cons of any choice. Those who feel passionately may have prejudices over their
opinion and may not tell the cons too frankly. Similarly those who prefer not to agree may prefer
to overlook the pros of a model.

In the end you should have all sorts or opinion about each category or model and the final choice
should always be your own that makes your feel comfortable, suits your budget, is easier for you
to handle and costs you less maintenance. You should not make your choices just because
someone else prefers to choose it and then may be you are not comfortable with it later on.

The foremost criterion for any one to go in for an investment for a hobby is the cost. The budget
needs to be fixed. As such electric kits come fall in the less expensive category for initial
investment. Although they give most enjoyment but one ends up paying more for the battery
packs, battery chargers, accessories, etc. This in the long run means that you have more stuff for
maintenance later on and it also means that the recurring costs for the same are substantial. With
some time gap the total investment in part ends up to paying equivalent to a Nitro pack.

Care to be taken for electric set up is to buy quality stuff over cheap quantities. Cheap stuff would
require sooner replacement and no repairs. Packs of quality batteries and quality charger would
bring down your recurring costs in the long run.

Nitro kits come in expensive with the initial investment. Even though you buy inexpensive engines
or accessories but their initial costs would be more than the electric ones.

Another criterion that affects the cost is the maintenance and operation. As discussed earlier
recurring costs for electric model can in the end compare up to initial cost of a Nitro pack. But
another factor that greatly influences the recurring cost is the frequency of use and tracks. If you
are using your model on rough tracks then it would obviously require more maintenance and
regular use of your tool kit or cleaning equipments.

Both the types of models have their own typical power systems that require regular maintenance.
Frequency of operation or frequency of use of your model would cause faster wear and tear and
would mean regular maintenance.

If your model does not meet any mishap, crash or breakdown even then nitro vehicles require
much more maintenance than electric ones. For an electric kit their batteries need to be taken
care of properly, condition properly and stored at proper temperatures etc to maintain their
charge.

In a nut shell, the over all cost difference between the two is not much but the only difference lies
between the initial investments of both. Therefore if cost is not a much affecting factor you can
choose any model but if you are short of dimes then it is safe to go in for electric setup. These
would not only require much maintenance and if taken care properly would give cool enjoyment to
an RC enthusiast.

(614 words)
OPERATIONS AND MAINTENANCE OF ENGINES
Great views and great opinions prevail in the market for the performance of Nitro engines. Any
model not only RC cars but any vehicle powered with a Nitro engine would have some talk
volumes about its performance, authentic look and feel and the great satisfaction it gives while
running it. Moreover owning a Nitro model is a pride in itself. They look great on-road and off-road
as well.

The electric engines do not take much fancy as compared to a Nitro. Nevertheless, their
performance of electric ones also gear up to the mark. Taking a closer look, electric ones are
over-simplified. They are easier to start. They are safe to set up. More over they just need
charging of batteries and one is ready to hit the tracks with them.

On the other hand, Nitro engines are little more sophisticated machines. They need to be
pampered and cajoled and to be taken care of before and after hitting the tracks. The engine
requires a lot of initial break-in time, tuning and adjustments. But surprisingly, many of the fans
enjoy the same. They enjoy spending time with their engines and tending to them. They love the
time and experience of breaking in a new engine, tuning it to my personal preferences and getting
the most out of my engine. This does not make a Nitro engine a green monster or a Zombie for a
newbie because it would be in good sense to mention that Nitro engine has many advantages
that far outweigh the maintenance and operation costs.

Although this personal touch experience is missing with the electric ones which are good for the
ones who want to make straight headway to the tracks and pursue it as a part time hobby.

Nitro engines require some dedication to learn about their working mechanism. One needs to
learn to maintain and service a 2-stroke engine, learn all the parts and perform regular checks
and repair. Nitro engines are somewhat more prone to damage and are much more costly to
replace. With some patience, time and dedication to your RC engine however, you can become
an RC nitro mechanic in no time at all.

But an electric system is easy to install and maintain. If the batteries are taken care of properly
then Electric setups do not require much maintenance. One can easily burn the batteries if they
are not regularly charged and stored in the proper place under appropriate temperatures.

But with all that maintenance and operations care that goes after a nitro engine, it surely does
produce the real power and gives out the best performance on the tracks than any of the electric
ones. Some companies do produce motor engines claiming to be equivalent to the power of a
nitro engine but that’s a rarity. A nitro engine is simply able to produce more power, and for as
long as it has fuel. An electric motor may start out strong, but as the power discharges at an
amazing rate; the nitro engine will still be going strong. This is an area where the average electric
vehicle cannot compete with a nitro-powered vehicle of the same size and class.

Thus it can be easily summarized to the fact that even after higher maintenance and opertions
costs along with the noise factor problem involved with the Nitro engine they give out much
greater authentic experience of running an RC model. They have more power and speed plus
they also give a greater run time.

Further, the electric engines may have lower initial cost, lower operating and maintaining costs
without any noise factor, they turn out less power and speed give out less run-time. Further, the
authentic feel and experience of running RC vehicles is definitely missing.

(624 words)
IMPORTANCE OF AIR FILTERS
An air filter is an important component of a Nitro engine. The engine needs a mixture of clean and
unrestricted air and fuel to provide power for the RC vehicle. Since nitro engine requires clean an
unrestricted flow of air for smooth running and more power the air filter is the first line of defense
or the first important component that makes sure that the engine runs to its optimum. All RC
vehicles make use of this device to derive the optimum power level for their engines.

The air filter keeps away the dirt, contaminants and other debris getting into the engine. If these
foreign particles enter the engine they might seriously harm the engine capabilities and definitely
would tune the performance of the vehicle.

There are three types of air filters. Most common of them is Foam air filters which use foam filter
oil. These filter oils should be without solvents as filters tend to disintegrate if you use filters oils
with solvents in it. Single stage foam filters contain single core. This core is used to filter dust, dirt
and similar contaminants. Dual stage foam filters have two levels of protection to prevent
contaminants. The second core is thicker and blocks smaller particles.

Cotton air filters are the most common replacements to foam air filters. They have less air
resistance as compared to foam ones. Care is required in case of cotton air filters so as to not to
over-saturate them. It is important for air filter to dry overnight.

Paper air filters are not recommended for off-road Nitro vehicles. These are usually favoured by
some owners for extra airflow for their vehicles.

One need to clean the filters regularly but sometimes an overall replacement might also be
necessary. Further, it is also important to know the finer aspects of cleaning an RC Nitro Engine’s
air filter. Applying oil to the air filter in the right manner is also important. They require special air
filter oil for the same. Once the air filter is purchased or cleaned properly it needs to be secured in
the right manner in it proper place. Usually most of the air filters stay securely in their place where
they are designed to be but one may need to know how put a troublesome one in the proper
place. All along choosing a right filter for your model is also very important. For the best
performance of your engine, making the right choice of air filter is equivocally important.

Cleaning air filters can save you money but one needs to make a choice sometimes for their
replacement. Since they are not a very costly part of an RC vehicle one can easily opt for a
replacement if maintenance is required too often. Although larger or better filter may cost more
but it really depends upon the model you own. Foam air filters are the most commonly used air
filters used in Nitro vehicles.

Air filters are as important to the engine, as the engine itself. Without an air filter, or without a
clean one, your engine will quickly degrade in performance and become seriously damaged.
Make it a part of your regular after-run routine, to clean or replace your nitro air filters.

(538 words)
RC NITRO ENGINE – GLOW PLUG
Nitro engines use glow plug igniter connected to the battery supply for starting up. The batteries
supply the power to glow the plug. Once the required ignition is provided the glow plug shall
continue to glow even though the batteries are disconnected.

If you need the nitro engine to tune-in properly it is always good to know that heat of the glow
plug can alter the combustion timing. If this heat is not properly set the engine may never be fine
tuned. Further, glow plug can burn out prematurely if you over heat them. They have an
unpredictable life span. It is always safer to use the brand of the manufacturer that has specified
guidelines or a manual for use. This way you can have a glow plug with longer life span whose
usage pattern is described and you have ready help to refer to.

If your engine runs fine but quits later once it is unhooked from the power plug this means that its
time to replace the Glow plug. But on the other hand if the engines revs down after you remove
the power then the glow plug is fine, the engine needs wither more nitro fuel or a hotter plug. The
small science behind the whole game is that hotter plug will typically advance the ignition point
while colder plug would retard the same.

Glow plug needs to be taken care of while buying for your RC model. Keeping an Eye on your
glow plug will help you to understand how you should adjust your carburetion. Take the glow plug
out and look at the coil element and if the spiral is a little bit pressed and bent it means that the
engine has too much compression. If you are racing on a sea level track, with 25% or more nitro
this could be the main reason. Then you need to check under head shims and insert a tenth. If
the coil element has a dull, as if it were sanded, it means that the carburetion is too lean (lack of
fuel) and you can damage the engine. You run the risk to break the coil element and make it fall
down on the top end of the piston, damaging the piston/sleeve. In this case, you should replace
the old Plug with a new plug and richen the High Speed needle 1/8th. If the thread has a dark
color and the plug seems wet, the carburetion is too rich and the engine isn't running at optimal
power. You have to lean the carburetion closing the High speed needle. When the coil element is
polished and the spiral does not present any imperfections, your engine carburetion is most likely
spot on.

Manufacturers models always come with help or features described for their glow plug which
comes in handy while tuning the engine. Like EZ-Start Electric Starter comes lights the glow plug
and ignites the engine. The built-in diagnostics for the same tell you if the glow plug is band and
protects the starter motor if there is a problem. Similarly, 55005 1/8 Scale Lightning Stadium Pro
(RTR) comes with a glow starter and a plug wrench but you shall need 7.2V battery for the jump
starter.

(511 words)
MICRO RC CARS
There area lot of places on the net with sale of micro RC cars. Good things come in small
packages. So if one wants to have some fun with RC cars in budgeted space and means Micro
RC cars are good options. It would not be fair enough to pin down to a particular model being the
best. Each car has own strengths and weaknesses. It you need to choose about buying and RC
car it depends mainly on your choice, budgets and needs.

Hobbico microsizers also known as Tomy Bit Char-G in Japan are small sized inexpensive and
durable models with lots of mods. But they have limited range, short driving time and only four
available frequencies with no proportional steering. These micro sizers can be great fun as races
for them can be set up in small spaces like kitchen floor. Although these do not have proportional
steering and a short run time but nevertheless they give good time for a race. They simply use a
pack of AA batteries. The standard controllers are not sophisticated but are adequate. If required
booster controllers can be purchased separately.

Takara Digi Q models are durable and very small with a good quality controller, proportional
steering and longer driving time. They use two motors to control speed and steering. Thus at
corners this car tends to go slow because if you want to turn right the right motor slows down. It
sends its signals via Infrared instead of frequency to control the car. Thus the car does not handle
well. The controller of this car feels solid in your hands and you can electronically switch between
high and low speeds. These cars usually come in cartoon looking bodies.

Epoch Indoor Racers have proportional steering and racing speeds and more realistic body
designs. These cars require larger racing areas as they have poorly designed controllers. They
are more expensive and limited mods along with after market parts. It is a bit larger for a most of
the micro remote controlled cars. The speed and responsiveness makes it fun for drivers who do
not mind paying a little more for micro remote controlled cars.

Kyosho Mini Z Street racers and Kyosho Mini Z Formula 1 are like real racers. All the electronics
components in them are pre-installed. They also have many clubs all across the globe. This
makes these models very popular. Their bodies have surprising details and cool parts that are
easily available. They are approximately six inches in length.

HPI Micro RS4 is approximately nine inches in the length. It is lot bigger and more real. Therefore
it tends to be more expensive. Further, its radio and electronics have to be separately purchased.

Micro remote control cars have one advantage of not having a longer down time with batteries as
compared over other bigger models. If you charge your batteries multiple times then they give a
longer run. This does not mean doing the ritual ten-fifteen times but two or three times is
sufficient. Most of the micro remote control cars come with NiCad batteries but it is better to go
with NiMAH batteries as they don’t seem to have memory problems that typically plague the
NiCad batteries. Moreover, they also accept multi-charging better. This is the reason that micro
remote control cars get a longer run time.

(557 words)
ELECTRIC RC CARS
Electric RC cars are great for beginners. They are most user-friendly and come as ready-to-run.
They use 7.2 volt battery packs and electric motors. They can be easily modified with faster
motors, ball bearings, and high power batteries. Earlier the electric car kits needed assembling
and were not available as ready to run. The car kit, radio, controller, chargers etc had to be
bought separately. Today it is much easier to buy a one-in-all box from the same manufacturers.
Plus the accessories from the same brand or manufacturing company are also available thus
ruling out any compatibility problems.

Electric Remote control cars are good for beginners as they require less maintenance and emit
no fumes. They are quieter as compared to their Nitro cousins and are less problematic. These
electric cars are capable of speeds up to twenty five miles per hour which is quite convenient for
beginners. Faster motors, ball bearings and high power batteries can push the speed up to forty
miles per hour.

Electric touring cars are quite popular as they have quite a real look and feel. Some have four
wheel drive (4WD) or two wheel drive (2WD). Electric RC Cars have two types of transmission
designs. Belt driven Electric RC cars are more stable in corners where as shaft driven have
higher top speeds. HPI Dash RTR, Associated RTR TC3, HPI Micro RS4 Nissan Skyline are all
good beginner’s cars and one can have fun with them playing indoors, street or garage.

These electric cars are accompanied by some neat accessories that make RC hobby all the more
fun. The radio control unit comes with a transmitter, receiver, two servos with servo horns, and
batter holder for receiver plus an on/off switch. The radio control unit controls the speed and the
direction of the car. The batteries and charger accompany the model to provide the necessary
power. To provide enough power a 7.2 volt battery pack is equally essential. They can be Nickel
– Cadmium (NiCad) or Nickel Hydride (NiMH) rechargeable batteries. Tamiya, Orion, Trinity,
Sanyo and Panasonic are good brands to buy.

Battery charger comes in two types -Timer and peak detection charger. With the timer charger full
charging of the battery needs to be monitored. The peak detection charged, although comes in
expensive, but does a better job of charging the batteries. It can automatically sense if the battery
is fully charged and will automatically shut off the power supply. Thus is it prevents overcharging
that destroys the batteries. Tekin or Novak can prove to be reliable brands as battery chargers.

TRX 2.5R Racing Engine comes with EZ-start push button electric starting. Its new Power-tune
cooling head promotes even heat distribution. Its silicon seal provides super sealing and this
sealed design provides precision tuning. Refined design and manufacturing produces smooth and
durable gears. Its microprocessor senses vehicle speed and optimizes forward and reverses
shifting. Precision rubber-sealed bearings are used in exposed locations provide ultimate in
protection and low maintenance in dirt & nitro environments for super smooth performance.

There are more sophisticated models available in the market for electric cars to choose from.
Although the newbie’s can choose from simpler models but old hobby holders can have as much
fun with the enhanced and upgraded models as well.

(544 words)
ENGINE TROUBLE SHOOTING
There can be so many problems with the engines. Different people and different engines make
varied permutation and combination of problems that can be encountered with them. Here are
some of the common problems discussed.

Some times the engine is very cool and stops short after a short run. When the engine is very
cool is starts immediately but after some turns at medium speed it if you put brakes or try to run at
very slow speed it stops. It may be because it might not be pulling enough gas. This might be an
indication of a worn piston sleeve. This may give you a good engine start for about a minute of 45
seconds but stops short after a few turns. Another checking can be required at the flywheel by
hand. After it is warmed up and stalling, you should feel considerable resistance as the piston
approached TDC. One can try turning the flywheel to check how much compression is left. If one
can turn If it can be turned with a finger and runs only for a few seconds and start only when it is
cooled then surely piston or the sleeve is to be blamed.

Another reason can be that it might not be sucking enough gas as it has no compression. The
engine has to be running and sucking in air to suck the fuel through the carburetor. This is not in
proper place as the compression is down.

Most important aspect is to listen to your engines. Most people especially those driving Nitro
models, fall into watching the smoke that comes from the exhaust and tuning the engines. But
problems with consistent performance may arise if there is a change in type of fuel. Different fuel
types may give into different range of engine performances. Further, it is not suitable to expect
the engines to perform race after race and in different conditions and every problem to be solved
just by taking a look at the smoke. It is important to learn to how the engine sounds and responds
to the throttle input.

Other than those there can be many instances when the engine stalls or simply it would not start.
If the engine is cutting out fast turns then its time to give a check on the fuel system of the engine.
Other problems that may arise due to fuel system can be that engine might be running very badly.
One needs to check out if the mixture is too lean or too rich, head pressure, fuel lines etc and all
things related to fuel system. A thorough investigation and fixing of the same can give out better
engine performance.

(447 words)
TROUBLESHOOTING THE FUEL SYSTEM
With a little average difficulty level and spending one our two hours on your fuel system a lot of
problems can be fixed in the fuel system. This would prevent engine stalling and starting
problems as well. Troubleshooting your engine on a clear sunny day is always preferred. A wet
soggy or cloudy day is not best for troubleshooting. Keep the instruction manual with you along
with a well equipped tool box and it would be easy to fix the problems.

For any model the preference should always be given to the fuel type mentioned in the user
manual, after all manufacturers know the best. Moreover, one should always use a consistent fuel
for the engine. Changing fuel types again and again affect the engine performances. Checking
the user manual for right kind of fuel helps out to identify if the fuel is with too much lubricant or
too much nitro.

Checking the fuel mixture whether it is too lean or too rich can also solve the fuel problem. More
inflow of fuel makes mixture richer this can be done by tuning the needle valve counter counter-
clockwise. A more inflow of air makes the mixture leaner. For the optimum engine performance
the right tuning of mixture is very necessary. This also gives consistent engine performance and
makes it run smoothly.

It is always better to check engine setting after taking it out from the storage before starting them
up. This would reduce the risk of causing any probable damage of starting them up outright and
some potential breaking that may be lurking around the corners.

If you have pull start engine then pulling the string multiple times like a yo-yo might cause
damage to the engine. Give the engine a breathing space after giving it a tug two or three times.

It is a good idea to check for fuel lines and fuel tank before each refuel. This may help in
identifying in any upcoming cracks or breakages in the fuel line or any foreign particles,
contaminants or foam inside the fuel tank.

When the right fuel-to-air mixture is achieved, some problems will still exist. When the fuel tank is
full, it is easy for the carburetor to draw the fuel, but as the tank empties, this becomes more
difficult. This is determined by the air pressure in the tank, and the depth of the fuel in the tank
itself. You can resolve this by pressurizing the tank with muffler pressure.

Smaller fuel lines are better option as bending constricts the fuel flow. Longer fuel lines rest
against other vehicle parts which may cause vibration in them to cause formation of bubbles. Fuel
tank in the vicinity always helps. It should always be mounted on foam and thick enough to
absorb the vibration.

In the end a frank opinion from a hobby shop or an old expert always helps. They can easily help
you identify small tricky problems that may be overlooked by you.

(494 words)
GETTING INTO RC HOBBY
Radio Control is like pursuing your dream clouds. It gives you the kick of piloting your own Air
Force or commanding your own fleet. Beginners begin with RC trucks or cars and they love being
totally in control of a fully functional scale model that is just waiting for your next command.

It is important to know the various type of options available to pursue your hobby. The most
popular type of R/C car is the Off-Road Buggy. Big tires with "knobby" spikes, full-travel
suspension parts and a high ground clearance allow the off-roader to go almost anywhere. They
come with either two-wheel drive (2WD) or four-wheel-drive (4WD), and reach speeds of 15-30
mph. On-Road cars usually have lower ground clearances, slicks tires, aerodynamic bodies, and
are capable of a bit higher speeds.

Cars use different kind of energy source to make them go around. The source can be either
electric or fuel. Cars that run on battery packs are electric cars. They use a rechargeable NiCad
battery pack for power. They can run up to 10 minutes and can be recharged in about 15
minutes. Nitro cars are actually powered by a small engine that burns a special glow fuel. Some
can reach speeds of over 50 mph.

One can choose to make his own car or to own one that is ready for get – set – go. These cars
can be identified as RTR (ready – to – run) which come with installed radio system or ATR
(Almost – ready – to – run). ATR models need to have the radio systems etc installed into them
Newbie can choose from models that are RTR. This helps them to enjoy the hobby more than
getting into the technical details. Such pre-built models are also preferred by “backyard” drivers.
For kits that need building up are suggestible for older hands who have been in the hobby rings
for sometime. The advantage to building a kit yourself is that you will know how to repair any
possible damage. These kits are opted by racers bent upon winning organized competitions and
showing off their models on the tracks and hitting the tracks hard.

2-channel Radio system is also required to control the RC model in hand. Along with the same a
pack of batteries preferably NiCad are required with a charger. Buying the car, radio, battery and
charger together is preferable as you get all the compatible parts and save money too.

Speed of the model depends upon the fuel it uses. Although nitro cars that use glow fuel have
more power and speed but electric models are also good for starters who want to chase around
little buggies for the sake of hobby. But this does not mean that choosing an electric model is
settling for a lesser performance. After mastering the skills of the hobby one can always upgrade
the models and choosing new models as well.

Some other requirements to pursue the hobby are to have a tool box well –equipped with ordinary
tools such as screwdrivers, nut drivers, pliers and the like. Although building a kit rather than
buying prebuilt does require extra time, there are advantages. You'll gain a expert understanding
of how your machine works, which comes in handy when performing maintenance and tuning.

(542 words)
GETTING TO KNOW THE RC MODELS
Knowing the RC models is an important if you wish to choose RC cars as hobby or want to get
into RC racing tracks. There are basically five types of models to choose from. Off-road buggies
that come with electric engine as power source are the most popular ones for the first time
enthusiasts.

These off-road buggies come with full travel suspension, high ground clearance and knobby
rubber tires that give them virtually any terrain with ease. It would be easier to choose a two
wheel drive models for a new enthusiasts. They require less maintenance and over all assembly
of the model. On the other hand four wheel drive models give easier driving and more
competitive edge in handling the model. Off- road buggies are great fun in the backyards.

On road cars, monster trucks, stadium trucks and mini cars are other options to choose from. It
really depends upon ones choice, budget and understanding level of the hobby as to which model
he chooses. All models come with both kinds of power supply viz. Nitro fuel or Electric. An RC
hobbyist can choose from all kind of various options available in the market. These on-road cars
offer minimal suspensions, sleek, sophisticated looks and foot-to-the-floorboard speed. They can
easily be run on a smooth street, parking lot, or any other flat or paved surface.

Micro racing cars are great fun to handle and are cool racers for smaller areas. They can be run
even on the kitchen floors. They are usually about five to six inches in length but some models
may end up in length up to nine inches. High-tech engineering produces exceptionally realistic
performance with forward and reverse, two-wheel drive, fully proportional steering, sophisticated
suspension action. They can offer more fun than that.

If you are looking for some high action drama with bumping and jumping then opting for the
stadium trucks is the choice to go for. Their heavy-duty suspensions, oversized shocks and large
tires, they're built to take punishment and can survive soaring jumps and crushing touchdowns
that would disable most vehicles.

Next in the category are lined up the monster trucks. They are similar to monster trucks, however,
they need a little experience and handling background to achieve optimum performance out of
them. Designed for torque instead of speed, these car crushers growl and rumble their way up
hills, down slopes and over unsuspecting cars by virtue of sheer, brute power.

All these models are great to go in for racing competitions as well. The two most popular RC
racing are ROAR (Radio Operated Auto Racing) and NORRCA (National Organization for Racing
Radio Controlled Auto). Details on these racing competitions can be obtained from their
respective website and publications on RC hobby.

(458 words)
RC RACING COMPETITIONS
NORRCA and ROAR are the two famous RC cars racing competitions. Other than the hobbyist
and individuals there are many manufacturers or groups that take part as professionals in these
racing competitions?

National Organization for Racing Radio Control Autos was established in September 1987 with
an aim to give a thrust to the RC racing hobby. Another aim for the organization was to give much
more receivables to RC clubs, racers, etc. It helps them to promote their existing infrastructure,
facilities and operations. Thus its main aim is to provide a fruitful guidance for better
enhancement of their endeavors in the RC racing hobby such that they feel that they have an
organization that is formed to suffice their needs.

Norrca is a professionally run organization that does not allow any alcohol or drugs during any of
its event. Further, all drivers must be member of Norrca to be able to participate in Norrca racing
events. Its membership costs only $25 per annum. There is also an option available for per event
membership.

Various companies are Norrca certified. These certifications not only stand for product quality or
workmanship but also for the total customer satisfaction that these companies offer. Some of
them are Team Losi, Reedy Modifieds, Trinity Products, World Class Batteries, etc. More details
of the such companies are present on their website.

ROAR or Remotely Operated Auto Racers is the official US/Canada sanctioning, body for racing
RC cars. It is a non-profit organization to promote the sports of remote control operated racing
cars. It is responsible for maintaining rules such that fair parties are involved in racing events. All
ROAR members are offered membership for Norrca at discount for the first year. Roar is
responsible for organizing race teams that represent US and Canada at the world championship
for all scales of RC cars.

ROAR also has set of rules designed over last 35 years that act as guidelines for RC cars and
racing events. It does not run races however its members are eligible to participate in all racing
events held for RC cars. Strength of ROAR lies in its regional presence. It is present as local
clubs all over US and Canada. Weekly competitions, racing orientations, member interactions etc
help drivers to perfect their racing skills. This also enables them to prepare for higher level
championships at region, state or nations.

ROAR rules and guidelines are available in the rule book as well as on the website along with the
corrections. Details on the administrative committee, executive formation, working pattern of the
committee, results of the board meetings, etc are all present on the websites.

Details of the rules, guidance, membership details, voting patterns, committee formation, etc can
be obtained from the respective sites for these organizations. These also give guidance about
driving rules, scoring patterns, track rules, radio equipment, judging pattern, technical rules, driver
classifications viz. novice, expert, factory, equipment rules, product legality and all other aspects
that are mandatory for racing events.

(498 words)
RC BATTERIES AND BATTERY TIPS
If someone has been using electric RC car models for some time it is essential for him to know
how to take care of the batteries. They are the power generators for these racing models. A little
attention and handling gives them better life span and more power. It is essential to understand
how to charge, discharge and take care of them.

It is often assumed that doubling the battery pack would make the car go faster or give more
battery life. Actually, in case of RC Cars, this is not the case. The added weight will neither add
speed nor life to the battery. Also wiring them in series would just increase the voltage but would
not affect the capacity. Only some of the monster trucks are designed to run with 14.4 volts rest
are designed to run on 7.2 volts only with two packs wired in parallel.

The common confusion also prevails between the heavy duty and alkaline batteries. User often
does not know which of them are better and supposes that although heavy-duty are cheaper but
alkaline last longer. Actually “heavy duty” are also alkaline batteries. It is just that if any battery is
allowed to sit for some span of time, one would be considered lucky to derive anything out them
after that. Manufacturers use the term heavy duty to denote their bargain brand batteries. They
also have premium brand batteries. The difference in cost is generally due to difference in cost in
producing standard alkaline or oxy-alkaline cells. Other than this the manufacturers also change
their premium battery names frequently in which the actual difference lies only in tweaking the
oxy-alkaline formula a little bit.

Usually most of the alkaline batteries give similar performance and life span regardless of the
brand. Other than that usage pattern also determines the battery performance and life span.
Different usage patterns in different models give varied response from the batteries. If one is
using controller to charge the cars then using alkaline batteries is preferable. If simple controller is
only used than carbon batteries are also sufficient.

NiCad and NiMH batteries are the commonly used batteries for RC models. NiCad is usually the
ones that give more value for money while NiMH give more capacity that means longer run times.
NiMH batteries are good to charge at 5 amp for racing conditions. Charging them at higher amp
would result in higher acceleration but the battery would flatten out till the end of the race. For
NiCad batteries 5 amp balances best between top speed and punch.

For storage, the best option for NiCad is to discharge them up to .9 volts and then store them. For
example 7.2 volt batteries should be discharged up to 5.4 volts and then stored. If these have not
been used for more than a week then it is good to charge them for up to 1 minute and then use
them. NiMH batteries thirty percent of the charge should be put into the pack and then stored.
Dead batteries should be maintenance zapped once and then cycled on the bench couple of
times. If the same is done every alternate day it can help the dead batteries get some charge.

Batteries are the moving power of the RC cars. If proper care is taken they give out maximum
power and better run times.

(560 words)
TECHNICAL SUTFF ABOUT RC CARS
Everyone who gets into the hobby of RC cars needs some clarifications regarding the details and
terminologies used by old expert while describing their experiences. One usually searches for the
queries on the message boards, discussion forums, websites, manufacturer’s product details
booklets, catalogues, etc. All these material and resources use terms that may sound new to
someone in the hobby. It helps to know the jargons used in the trade to understand the tricks and
tips better.

RC Scale Sizes are used to define the dimension of the cars or the size of the car. A 1/10th scale
rc car means that it is one-tenth the size of the real car. A 1/8th scale RC car means that it is one-
eight the size of the real car. Remote control cars come in many sizes such as 1/24, 1/18, 1/12,
1/10, 1/8 and 1/5. The 1/24th scale is small, the 1/5th scale is large. Some of the popular brands
come in specific sizes. Kyosho Mini Z and Tamiya Tamtech come as 1/24 scale. HPI Micro RS4
comes as 1/18 scale. Associated 12i and HPI Mini RS4 come as 1/12 scale. RC cars viz.
Associated Nitro TC3 and RC10GT, HPI Dash and Nitro RS4, OFNA OB4, Traxxas Nitro T-Maxx
and Nitro 4-Tec all fall in the scale of 1/10. Models like HPI Nitro Savage 21, OFNA Titan and
Ultra MBX, Tamiya Terra Crusher fall in the scale of 1/8.

The most popular models in Gas Powered Remote Control Cars today are the 1/10th scale nitro
powered RC touring cars, and the 1/8th scale nitro remote control monster trucks, 1/10
Associated Nitro TC3 Touring Car 1/8 HPI Savage 21 Nitro Monster Truck. These are powered
by 2-stroke gas engines that use special fuel (nitro, methanol, castor oil). Out of the box, gas
powered remote control cars are faster that electric RC cars. Amongst the Electric Powered
Remote Control Cars, the most popular ones today are the 1/10th scale electric touring cars.

To make it easy for beginners to get into the hobby, manufacturers have produced kits that are
Ready to Run (RTR) Radio Control cars. Most of these kits come as assembled and completed
with radio, batteries, and charger. If you are a beginner, it is highly recommend you buy ready to
run RC kits.

Other term used for the RC cars is the 2WD and 4WD. This pertains to the two wheel drive and
four wheel drives respectively. In case of 2WD usually rear wheels are active where as in case of
four wheel drive all the four wheels are attached to the engine and derive the power. Thus they
give better edge around the corners and better maneuvering.

(447 words)
GAS POWERED REMOTE CONTROL CAR
Gas or Nitro RC cars provide realism and speed and are recommended for experienced
hobbyists who want to experience something different from electric cars. The most popular gas
cars today are the cheap and fast nitro touring cars, and BIG monster nitro RC trucks! First item
to buy is the car itself. There are plenty to choose from.

Touring cars have 4 wheel independent suspension, 4 wheel drive, and 2-speed transmissions
capable of propelling car to speeds in excess of 50 mph. Gas powered cars use 2-stroke engines.
For 1/8 scale, .21 size engines are used. For 1/10 scale, .12 size engines are common. Engines
for these cars come either with a pull-start (PS) or non-pull start. Pull-start engines have a built-in
recoil starter to pull the wire or rope to turn the engine's crankshaft. For non-pull start engines,
you will need to have a starter. The end of the starter is a rubber wheel, which is "bumped"
against the flywheel of the engine to turn the crankshaft. Using a starter on a pull-start engine
may damage the pull-start mechanism.

Nitro fuels are specially blended fuel for RC gas cars. All RC car models have guide books in
which appropriate fuel for them is recommended. It is also advisable to use a consistent fuel type
for a car as it helps the engine to give optimum performance. Chaging fuel types may disturb the
engine performance of the car.

Fuel is also classified according to nitro content. Higher the nitro content more is the power. Fuel
with only 10% nitro is good enough to win races and is cheaper than fuel with 15 - 20% nitro. The
nitro engines use a glow plug (similar to a spark plug of a real engine). To start the engine, this
glow plug must be heated. A device called a glow driver or igniter, powered by a 1.5v battery, is
used to heat the glow plug.

The radio control unit is the electronics that control the speed and direction of the car. A basic
radio controller consists of transmitter, receiver, servos and battery holder for the receiver, on/off
switch, servo horns and batteries.

Use of quick, quiet and easy to afford, build and drive electric vehicles are still the most popular
choice in R/C power for first-time modelers. Equipped with a rechargeable Nickel-Cadmium
(NiCad) battery pack, a vehicle with a stock motor will provide about 6-8 minutes of run time. With
multiple packs and a quick charger, an electric vehicle is ready for hours of use.

Even after the preference to electric vehicles interest in gas vehicles has grown enormously over
the period of time. Vast improvements in glow engine technology have simplified tuning and
maintenance, enabling many more modelers to enjoy the realistic sound and smell that goes
along with gas power's acceleration and speed. Buying a fail safe unit is an inexpensive option
that can save your gas car from damage.

(488 words)
TIPS ON BUYING AN RC CAR
There's more to running an R/C car or truck than the vehicle itself. Usually all models come with
all necessary equipments and accessories required for running of the car. Electric vehicles
require a two channel radio, motor(s), speed control and battery. Gas vehicles require a radio,
engine, fuel and muffler. Some or all of these items may be included with the vehicle but
additional purchase may be required for some as well. It is important to read the read the product
description carefully for details.

Most RC cars have a retail price, which is the suggested selling price. But note that most hobby
shops sell kits for 20 - 40% less than the retail price, which is called the street price. To get the
best deal on RC cars, when shopping, always pay for the street price and not the retail price.

You can get RC cars from a local hobby shop (LHS) or order it from online hobby shops. Buying
your model from a local hobby shop is much more preferable. If the shop owner is helpful, you get
a lot of advice and useful tips to help you get started. Local hobby shops also usually keep spare
parts which you can easily buy. It's also nice to support your local hobby shop, they help set up
racing tracks, organize races, and keep the RC hobby alive in your area. But if you live in an area
where such local hobby shops are non-existent or not up to the mark or you are not happy with
the person on the sales counter, you can also opt to purchase from the online hobby stores.

To get the best deals on Remote Control cars form online stores, look for special offers,
clearance sales and discount coupons. Remember to factor in the shipping cost. Payment is
easily done via credit cards.

Some models may also require items such as pinion, tires, wheels and body. If one has
purchased the model from online hobby shop, then details of all such requirements may be
obtained from accessories required links for the model on their website. One can choose from the
list to see the items needed. If you order by phone, ask for help from the friendly Sales and
Service representatives who would tell you exactly what you'll need for each specific car or truck.

Most R/C vehicles use 2-channel radio systems. They will usually not include batteries, so you'll
need to buy alkaline cells or rechargeable NiCad to power the transmitter and the receiver. If you
drive an electric model and have a BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuitry) equipped radio system, you
can power the receiver from your motor's battery pack.

Another consideration when choosing an R/C car or truck is making sure that you'll be able to get
replacement parts quickly and easily—that way, if anything breaks, you won't be stuck in neutral
for very long.

Manufacturers also make “aftermarket" parts available along with direct replacement parts. These
parts may be wheels, tires, bodies, suspension and steering components, decals, etc. These can
be used to improve your model's performance and customize its looks.

(521 words)
SHIMMING THE RC CARS
One can increase the speed of an RC car by shimming. One very exclusive speed tip is to use
shims to remove any unnecessary slop in your RC car. Excess slop reduces an RC car's speed
and makes it handle erratically. Shimming a trans simply means that the have the correct
tolerances on each shaft or cluster of gears

If there is a gap between the hub and the axle pin, it causes undesired side to side movement;
robbing an RC car of speed and making it handle erratically. One place to remove excessive slop
is between the rear hub and the axle pin. We can do this by using thin plastic shims.
If you take a look closely at your model you shall find a thin plastic shim next to the ball bearing.

The inner hole and outer diameter should match the ball bearing's dimension for good results.
You shall need to assemble the rear hub, but to get result as your desire of increasing the speed,
this time insert the plastic shim before inserting the ball bearing. The final assembly should result
in a minimal amount of gap between the axle pin and the ball bearing inside the hub.

Too much shimming will cause binding. Better to have some amount of slop rather than have
binding. You can test for binding by removing the dogbone temporarily and spin the tire with your
hand. The tire should spin freely for at least 30 seconds. If not, there is binding, better to reduce
the amount of shimming.

It is important to learn how to make plastic shims. A step by step guide to making cheap plastic
shims for the rear axles is helpful. Details on shimming can also be researched from other
resources. You can also ask an old hobby expert in RC Cars.

First step is to find a thin piece of plastic and punch a hole which is slightly bigger than the axle
diameter. Next is to cut out the outer diameter that matches the outer diameter of the ball bearing.
You can easily do this by first finding a spare axle and then insert the plastic shim and a bearing.
Then use a cutter to mark the outside diameter.

You can then cut out the outside diameter using scissors to get the final result. If you wonder why
the RC cars of top drivers are so fast, it is because their cars are built with almost no slop.

In case of Tamiya Championship series the use of thin shims to space out the slop or play in
suspension arms, steering bell-cranks and wheel axles is now permitted in all vehicles except in
the specific class. Shimming the aforementioned components of the car in a way that alters the
geometry of the car or its basic geometry design is not legal. In case of shimming the tranny or t-
maxx, if you want to get the slop out of it, you should stick a 5x8x.1 mm shim or more between
the bearing and the tranny case where there is e-clip.

(511 words)
NITRO ENGINE TUNING TIPS

Tuning of nitro engines for racing is very essential activity that is essentially required for deriving
optimum performance of the engine. If the engine is cleaned as well as if bottom end and top end
are tuned properly then nitro engines give maximum performance and longer run time.

It is important to clear the engine of debris in preparation for race tuning. This debris or
contaminants cause blockages in air flow or fuel intake. This may result in too rich or too lean
mixture. Such an irregular flow of the mixture in to the engine does not give optimum
performance. It may also cause stalling or starting problems of the engine. In order to clear the
engine a step but step guidance is useful.

Raise idle to 1/4 turn. This will help prevent engine from stalling. This is the idle screw and not the
low-end needle. Next you would need to check on the engine temperature. An engine
temperature up to 150 degrees is required. A rich fuel mixture is required. In order to achieve this
richen top end by a full turn. This should be done by holding the carburetor wide open and
richening should continue till engine nearly stalls. This flushes out dirt, residue, or after-run oil
from the carburetor and the engine as well.

After this tuning of the bottom end is required. It is essential to get acquainted to the sounds and
humming of the engine in order to tune your engine to the best. Listening to the idle is the first
step toward tuning the bottom end. If the idle slows and engine stalls then the bottom-end needle
needs to be stalled. But if the idle speeds up then bottom needle needs to be richened out. The
engine needle should be set to idle for at least one minute before the engine starts to stall.

Once the idle is consistent for one minute then idle screw should be lowered as much as possible
until engine stalls. Then the idle screw should be opened up to the setting of one-eighth of the
turn. Engine should be idle at least for more than forty-five seconds consistently.

After the bottom end is tuned in the top end needs to be tuned. To begin tuning the top end full
throttle needs to be opened for at least two to three seconds and then the same should be
returned to idle position. The top end needs should be leaned out after listening to the engine
until a nice clean sound is heard. Then the carburetor needs to be opened to full throttle for two to
three seconds and closed for the same amount of period. This should be repeated one or two
times. This should make rev nice and clean after the repetitions.

If the engine hesitates after this it is an indicative of too lean mixture. In order to resolve the same
the top needle needs to be richened. A proper tuning of the engine should resolve the problem of
stalling of engine or if the engine is giving shorter run times. If the problems persist then trouble
shooting of the fuel system may be required. But the best shot would be to take an expert’s
opinion.

(538 words)
GETTING TO KNOW THE RC CARS
Everyone likes to know the little tit bits or pieces of information about the hobby they pursue. May
be that’s the reason that message boards and discussion forums are so popular. After all no one
can ignore the importance of first hand information that comes in handy to a novice. Moreover,
special preferences of experts and the reason as to why they choose them are always accepted
by others. After all who does not want to follow the expert and gather tips from them?

In case of batteries 35 amp packs are preferred especially in sedan and form of stock racing.
They usually have more punch in stock but in mod there is a very noticeable difference. For the
carpet nets although pack of 30 test the same and run good on the track but pack of 35 have
more power and it equaled about 2-3 seconds of improvement on a 5 min run.

Taking care of batteries makes batteries last longer in club races. One way to do them is charge
them at 5-5.5 amps Reedy Quasar pro Charger. At major races new ones are handed out but
then they have to be returned at the end of the race such that these packs can be taken care of
for the next big race.

But it should be kept in mind that anything you do to increase performance will usually make the
battery deteriorate faster. For example like charging the batteries at higher amperage or
discharging before you run. Using a single cell discharger about every 5 runs is better to to
equalize the pack.

The cars should preferably be run flat without any anti-dive or anti squat. In the rear more anti
squat usually gives more steering off-throttle and more rear bite on-throttle. Pro-squat gives less
steering off-throttle and more steering on-throttle. But looks can be deceptive. Anti-squat will
make the car feel smoother on the first initial steering input where Pro-squat will make the car
react faster.

It is a good idea to use a good peak detector or a charger with both the utilities of detecting peak
charge as well as charging the batteries. If you take good care of your packs you can run them for
months at top performance. If one is willing to spend a little dough on chargers then Competition
Electronics Turbo 35 is a good choice to go for.

While using the batteries it is nice to charge batteries at 6amps for 1/12 and 7 for TC. But at the
time of storing, they should be discharged to .9 per cell (3.6 for 4 cell and 5.4 for 6 cells)
@30amps.

Digital Servos depend on respective radio systems. If the radio system is a newer high response
type, then using digitals servos is better. On the other hand if the radio system is and old one
then analog servos are better.

Nitro Content of Fuel should be such that the model runs on run 25-30%. This is because the
engines weren't originally designed and made for that. They are actually made to run on 16% -
that is the EFRA and IFMAR rule.

In case of racing there is no specific idea to make you go faster the best way to handle your car
and the best idea to maneuver the car usually makes one go fast and win the race.

(560 words)
GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT RC MOTORS
The single most important thing about motors is that cleaning is the priority. The best way to
improve the performance of a motor is to keep it CLEAN. It does not mean to spray it out once a
month with motor spray, instead an absolute cleaning is very important. If you are a serious racer
cleaning motors means extra and free horsepower for the engine. This is because it gives proper
inflow of fuel and prevents and contaminants or foreign bodies from hurting the machine.
Cleaning of all components is an important aspect. It is very important to clean the brushes and
the commutator since this is where the power is applied. Any drop in the resistance of the
connection from the brushes to the commutator will be rewarded with either an increase in power
or efficiency, or BOTH!

Allowing brush dust to allowed to accumulate on the brushes and the com shall add resistance to
the connection of the batteries to the motor. As the resistance of that connection is increased,
performance is decreased because some of the battery power is converted to what is called 'I-
squared-R losses'. This results in heat being produced at the brush connection instead of power
being transferred to the com.

The best way to keep brushes and com clean, without cutting them, is the little shaped eraser-
looking things from RPM. Using one on both brushes and the com between runs and keeps the
motor 'fresher' between visits to the com lathe. There is not any real marked difference between
the yellow one and the black one, they both seem to do the same thing equally well.

Another way to keep peak performance is to be sure that the com is true. This is accomplished by
regularly cutting the motor on a com lathe. Doing it about every 5-10 runs may seem excessive
but doing it so often, it ends up only end up taking .001-.002 from the surface. Since taking only
such a small cut, the motor can be re-trued upwards of 25 times.

Springs are yet another way to alter the performance of a motor. Asphalt is for Racing, Dirt is for
Planting Potatoes. Anyway, in 4-cell 1/12th scale, it is best to run LIGHT springs. Run a Trinity
gold on the '+' and a Trinity silver on the '-'. This has proven, after what seems like months on the
dyno, to be the best combination for 1/12th scale STOCK racing. 4-cell mod follows basically the
same rules of thumb for springs, but the timing needs to be adjusted for maximum efficiency as
well to take full advantage of what the motor can do.

(442 words)
Common Terms Explained for RC Cars (Part 1)
Here are some of the common terms explained for RC cars. These terms and abbreviations are
commonly used by experts, manufacturers, message board users, old professionals, racers, club
members etc.

Ackerman refers to the angle between the two front (steering) wheels when turned to full lock.
Altering this 'ackerman angle' will alter the steering characteristics. A greater angle will give you
smooth, predictable steering, whilst a smaller angle will give you more aggressive steering.
The angle for the rear whish bone hinge-pins relative to the horizontal refers to the term “Anti-
Squat”. Increasing the angle gives more anti-squat, meaning that the car is less likely to squat
(drop at the rear) during acceleration.

Wheelbase is the distance between the front and rear axles of the car. The angle of the wheels
(when looked at from the front or rear of the car) relative to the vertical is known as Camber. If the
wheels lean inwards towards the car, the angle is said to be negative. If they lean out the angle
is positive, however, positive camber is almost never used. Basically, zero camber gives the
maximum forward traction, whilst more negative camber gives more grip while cornering. Caster
describes the angle (when looking at the front wheels from the side of the car) between the
kingpin and the vertical. This is part of the car's geometry which keeps it travelling in a straight
line when no steering force is applied. It is not adjustable on all cars.

The relationship between the speed of the motor and of the driving wheels is known as the Final
Drive Ratio. For example, a final drive ratio of 8.17:1 means that for every rotation of the wheel,
the motor rotates 8.17 times. Lower the number on the left of the colon, the higher is the ratio i.e.
more top speed and less acceleration. Tweak is the difference between the heights of the wheels
relative to the ground (at the same end of the car). e.g. If the front left is lower than the front right
the car is said to be 'tweaked' usually caused by a distorted or 'tweaked' chassis or unequal
shock lengths

Toe-in is the relative angle between the two front wheels or rear wheels (when viewed from
above). If the wheels point inwards (towards the front of the car) it is called toe-in, if they point
outwards, it is called toe-out.

When people refer to body roll, they are talking about the way the car pitches, either from side-to-
side (when cornering) or front-to-back (when braking or accelerating). Ball differential is a design
of differential unique to model cars which use ball bearings instead of bevel gears to achieve
differential speeds at both wheels. It has the effect of allowing one wheel to slip whilst still
delivering power to the other. It is also known as 'limited slip differential'.

Tires which have a flat ring of ridged material molded into the rubber to prevent 'growing' at high
speeds, an effect that reduces the tires contact area with the track, resulting in loss of grip. This
tires are known as Belted Tires.

(518 words)
Common Terms Explained for RC Cars (Part 2)
Commutator is also known as 'com' for short. It is the part of the rotor (the part inside which turns)
which has three copper contact for the brushes to run on. Keep clean and skim regularly for
optimal efficiency and motor life. Brushes are the two copper contacts that supply power to the
commutator of the motor. These should be replaced regularly for optimal efficiency and motor
life. When a motor has been used several times, the commutator can become deformed, thereby
reducing the motor's efficiency. Skimming refers to placing the motor's rotor on a small lathe and
turning-down the commutator so that the surface is smooth and round again.

When two or more drivers in a race are using the same frequency, causing interference to one, or
both of the drivers it is known as Frequency Clash. All radio-controlled equipment uses crystals to
set the frequency which they operate on. Crystals resonate at a set frequency when an electric
current is passed through them. They are very delicate and should be stored and handled with
great care. Crystals come in pairs, one for the transmitter which is marked 'TX', and one for the
receivers which is marked 'RX'. Make sure you use the correct crystals, it DOES make a
difference.

A car dives when it is under heavy breaking. This is because of the momentum the car has built-
up is being resisted by the breaking force of the motor. The front slings store some of that energy
by compressing, this making the front of the car drop. Dive is the opposite of squat. When heavy
acceleration is applied to the car at relatively low speed, the forward force exerted by the motor is
resisted by the inertia of the car. The rear springs store some of this energy (temporarily) by
compressing, thus making the rear of the car drop. This is known as Squat.

Dampers absorb the excess energy stored by the strings when the car goes over a bump.
Without dampers the car would bounce up and down uncontrollably. But when you car has just
has so much grip that the body roll is just too great, causing the car to completely roll over onto its
side it is known as the Grip Roll.

Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) is the electronic box that takes the throttle/brake signal from
the receiver and feeds the appropriate amount of power to the motor. But when your car makes a
sudden twitch causing you to lose control, it is known as the Glitch. This is usually due to some
sort of electrical interference. Transponder is a small electronic device which when fitted to your
car, registers that you have completed a lap every time you go past the start/finish line. This is
how your race result is recorded, so don't forget to fit it or you won't register any laps!

Trim is the setting on your transmitter which determines whether or not the car runs in a straight
line when the steering is in its neutral position. When making a turn the car fails to turn enough,
instead preferring to go straight. This is called under steer. On the other hand if while making a
turn the car turns to much, making the rear-end slide it is known as the Oversteer.

Rostrum is a raised platform for drivers to stand on whilst racing, so they can get an elevated
view of the track. TQ or the Top Qualifier is the man with the fastest qualifying time overall. BRCA
stands for British radio car association. It is the governing body of the sport.

Inserts are foam or rubber rings placed between the tire and the rim to help the tire keep its
shape. Apex is the exact mid-point of any given corner. This is the point where you should be
closest to the inside of the corner. Kick-up is the angle of the front wishbones to the ground.

(655 words)
CELL SPECIFIC INFORMATION ON BRUSHES FOR RC CARS
Commutator is also known as 'com' for short. It is the part of the rotor (the part inside which turns)
which has three copper contact for the brushes to run on. It should be kept clean and skimmed
regularly for optimal efficiency and motor life. Brushes are the two copper contacts that supply
power to the commutator of the motor. These should be replaced regularly for optimal efficiency
and motor life.

Brushes is the area where people differ GREATLY in opinion of which brush to use, to cut or not
to cut, timing or no timing etc. One should get an idea about what works for his model and what
does not. Some tips for the brushes should be taken care of.

In 1/12th scale stock, you do not want to run a full brush. It has been found that it is best to cut
about 10% off the trailing edge of the brush. This tends to give a little more RPM. Also, a little
experimenting reveals that with drilling the center of what is remaining (small hole) to decrease
surface contact area, thereby reducing friction (theoretically anyway) and gaining a bit of
efficiency.

Also it should be noted that efficiency is gained by removing material from the top of one brush
and the bottom of the other. This allows the com to wear evenly and again reduces contact area
without affecting timing.

It is a matter of personal choice as to which brushes to start with. However, brushes with higher
silver content make the most power and consequently are the hardest on the comm. This means
more maintenance on a regular basis and more frequent visits to the lathe.

One can have his own individual preference to go for . Like someone may be partial to the
EastCoast R-29 brush and the Trinity 4070. He may have had good success with both of these
brushes and actually prefer the R-29 to the 4070, but each has its benefits and drawbacks. Other
can try out their own choices and experiment with them.

6-cell specific is an entirely (almost) different critter. When doing motors for RS-4 that one
basically needs to put a slightly stiffer spring on BOTH sides of the motor to get the best results.
Using a slightly softer spring on the '-' helps to gain a little more RPM and gain in efficiency.

Efficiency is not as important in 6-cell racing as all out power since one is only racing 4 minutes.
One normally has almost two minutes left after a four minute race in 4WD using batteries in the
360 second range.

(435 words)
STOCK MOTOR BREAK-IN TECHNIQUE
Breaking in stock motors is something that is a personal thing to almost every racer. There are
almost as many different ways to break in a new stock motor as there are racers that run them.

Applying 400 grit lapping compound to each of the bushings and running the motor on Turbo 30
at 2 volts. This allows the lapping compound to work. It is the way between the motor shaft and
the bushing. As the motor spins with the lapping compound on the bushings, they become
polished. Lapping compound is similar to Trinity's Bushing Buster. It is a paste that contains
abrasive particles that work to polish the bushings as the motor spins.

The one needs to apply a small amount of compound on each bushing and run the motor until the
paste turns black, then it needs to be sprayed off with motor spray. The process needs to be
repeated four to five times. This repetition of process makes sure that the bushings are
sufficiently polished. But if the same is done for longer span of time then the bushings will begin
to show signs of end play as the abrasive in the paste begins to wear on them excessively.

After the last run with the compound, clean the motor thoroughly with motor spray to ensure that
all of the lapping compound is removed from the motor. After the compound is applied properly
choice of brushes for the motor is required. These brushes need to get them pre-seated with the
brush contouring tool from RPM. After the brushes are contoured, switch the cutters to the
serration tool and serrate the brushes so that they will break in quicker.

Generally speaking, a few runs around the track for practice should have them broken in.
Normally, I just allow the brushes to break in during the dyno setup and then once I take the
motor off the 'RACK' it is ready for use in the car.

It is important to note that brush hood alignment is vital to getting the most out of any stock motor.
Ideally the brushes should be exactly 180 degrees apart and centered on the comm. There are
several tools that exist to facilitate this

Other than this cleaning the motor is top priority when it comes to getting the most power out of a
motor. It is also a good idea to have the comm cut after each day of racing if you want to continue
to get maximum performance out of the motor.

Several people prefer to change brushes each time that the comm is cut. It is a bit much if one
only removes .001 to .002 when cutting the comms on motors. If the brushes are fully seated and
show no signs of overheating, leave them in until they become short or show signs of having
gotten HOT. This is easy to determine. Brushes tend to have a blue tint to them where they come
into contact with the comm. It is therefore suggested to replace them as the lubricant has been
cooked out of them. Otherwise, it is preferable to get the moneys worth out of them and re-use
them if they are still suitable.

(534 words)
SHOCK ADJUSTMENTS IN RC CARS
Shocks basically serve two purposes. They keep your chassis off the racing surface and keep the
tires on track. The way that they accomplish this is to use a spring in combination with a damping
medium, normally oil and a piston, to control the motion of the shock shaft throughout its
complete range of motion.

The function of each of the components needs to be understood individually to have a have a
better understanding as to what each one does and how it complements the other in performing
the function of the shock.

Springs control the ride height of the car. Normally, it is best to use the softest spring that will
keep the chassis off the ground. There are exceptions to this (as any other) rule but not too many.
Once you have a basic 'feel' for the adjustments, you will know when you need more spring.

Piston and shock oil are there to control the motion of the spring. Without them the car would just
bounce until the energy that was put into the spring by the suspension dissipated itself. A full
scale car with worn out shocks tend to wander and bounce after hitting a bump. Dampers absorb
the excess energy stored by the strings when the car goes over a bump. Without dampers the
car would bounce up and down uncontrollably.

An important consideration about the car is the shock length adjustment. This is one criterion that
is often overlooked even by old racers on the track. A formula 1 car (full scale) has about 2.5 cm
of suspension travel at both ends. A rally car has as much as possible at both ends. All shocks
are not the same. This example basically it gives an idea of which adjustment to make first if your
car is not handling the way that you would like it to.

Generally speaking it is normal to have the front end a little stiffer than the rear. This will make it
so that your car does not tend to 'hook' or 'oversteer' in the corners. If while making a turn the car
turns to much, making the rear-end slide it is known as over-steering. A car with a little bit of
'push' is much easier to drive than one that is constantly trying to swap ends.

If more traction is required then the suspensions need to be softened at that end of the car. For
example, if more steering is required, lighter oil in the shocks should be put or lighter spring
should be used. It important to remember which component controls what. If there is excess ride
height, a spring that is one softer should be chosen and see if that works first since it is the easier
swap. If that allows the chassis to button out, then put the original spring back on and start
experimenting with lighter oils in the shock or pistons with more or larger holes in them to reduce
the damping effect. Usually it is easier to change oil than it is to change the pistons.

Making the opposite adjustment at the other end of the car has similar effect. For example, if a bit
more steering is needed, the rear end should be stiffened a bit and that should give a bit more
front end bite. It will also allow the back end to be a little more 'loose' in the turns. Loose is fast
but too loose is hard to control.

Obviously, if less steering is needed or more rear bite, adjustments opposite to the ones
mentioned above should be done.

(599 words)
COMPARISON BETWEEN NITRO “GAS” & ELECTRIC RC CARS
RC cars can go very fast. Gas powered RC cars can accelerate for 0 - 60 mph in less than 2
seconds. But the hall of fame cars are all electric cars. So the best guess can be that electric RC
Cars seem to dominate. On the other hand talking of racing over 30 to 60 minutes long, gas cars
can consistently post the fastest lap speeds.

R/C cars started in 1/8th Scale On-Road Gas class. And when it comes to pure performance,
nothing beats the speed and realism of 1/8th scale on-road gas cars. They give speed from Zero
– to - sixty miles per hour (mph) in 1.5 seconds, at racing speeds of over 70 mph. And these are
real speeds as captured by radar guns. For power, these cars use 3.5cc 2-stroke engines
capable of producing 2 horsepower. Power is delivered via a 2-speed or 3-speed automatic
transmission to a 2WD or 4WD full suspension chassis. Wide, low profile foam tires produce the
grip needed to propel these machines to incredible speeds.

1/10th Scale Off-Road RC Electric Trucks are probably the most popular class. These cars (i.e.
buggies, racing trucks, monster trucks) can be run on almost any type of surface. Dirt, dust,
water, and jumps add to the fun. These cars also make use of the standard 540 electric motor.
The main difference to on-road is the suspension system. Long shock absorbers keep RC electric
trucks stable over bumpy surfaces.

Tires are also bigger, have deeper threads or spikes, and are made of rubber. 2WD is still the
most popular class for off-road, although there are plenty of 4WD cars to choose from. Early
electric cars were 1/12th scale run on-road. Today’s cars are run indoors and outdoors, on
asphalt or on smooth carpet. These cars make use of 540 size electric motors, powered by 4 or 7
cell batteries. Pan chassis with direct drive transmission are the norm. Foam tires are used and
lightweight Lexan bodies are used.

Because of its small size, 1/12th scale cars are lightweight, and have good power-to-weight ratio.
30+ mph speeds are achievable even with the basic Mabuchi stock motor.

1/10th Scale Gas Touring Cars are similar to electric touring cars, but with more power and 2-
speed transmission. At 190mm, these cars are slightly narrower and smaller than the 200mm
models. These cars are tamer in performance as compared to 1/8th scale on-road gas, but still
capable of speeds in excess of 50mph.

Performance at the track is similar to their electric counterparts. At twisty turns, electrics are
usually faster. However, the 2-speed transmission allows gas touring cars to achieve higher top
speeds. Some of these cars are Team Associated Nitro TC3 and OFNA LD3 RTR. These cars
have an engine of Force .12 that gives a speed of 40 mph.

1/8th Scale Off-Road Gas Trucks combines the speed and power of a 3.5cc engine with the fun
of running in off-road conditions. These buggies need and use 4WD to transfer the power of the
3.5cc engines to the track. Sticky rubber tires provide the much-needed grip. HPI Savage 25 Nitro
Monster Truck, Associated Monster GT, HPI Nitro Savage 21 RTR Monster Truck, Tamiya Terra
Crusher Gas Truck, 1/10 Traxxas Tmaxx or T-Maxx Nitro RC Truck are some of the 1/8th scale
off road gas trucks.

(555 words)
TIPS TO MAKE RC CARS RUN FASTER
Although it is very difficult to actually pin down as to what makes the RC car go faster. But a
proper maintenance, cleaning, taking care of batteries or choosing right kind of consistent fuel etc
help the cars to give optimum performance. If one keeps some tips in mind for taking care of the
body, engine, batteries etc then the same can add extra horsepower on racing tracks. Further,
only practice and lots of practice can give a driver proper maneuvering of the car and with that
practice only the cars can perform to their best on the tracks.

Tapping all the holes with a 4-40 tap go about 3/4 length of the screw keeps the parts from
stripping. Spraying out all bearings and re- oiling them with light bearing oil also helps. Parts
should always be free such that nothing binds them.

Some attention should also be paid to the car setup. Concentrating on what your car is doing and
what is it made up of will make you notice the finer requirements of the car that are required for its
optimum performance. Using grease oil without grease works better with RC Cars. Hard and
efficient gears are usually loud ones that give out lot of noise.

A smaller hole piston makes the car react slower, usually giving more traction but there is also a
possibility that it will probably do everything else worse. Weight in front usually gives more on
power steering but the car will change direction at a slower pace. But the bottom line is that it is
legal to make your car as heavy one desires. It is preferable to have brakes turned way down so
that if one panics panic and stab them hard it does not throw the car for a loop.

Tweak is the difference between the heights of the wheels relative to the ground (at the same end
of the car). e.g. If the front left is lower than the front right the car is said to be 'tweaked' usually
caused by a distorted or 'tweaked' chassis or unequal shock lengths. It is preferable to ride
heights then set the tweak on the track. Then it is correct it should be set on a tweak board and
see where it is then going back to that setting before each run.

Putting Coppertone and paragon on the tires also helps. Putting Coppertone on the tire after the
paragon, tires are actually able to soak without the heat or sun drying it up. Put paragon on first
then apply Coppertone on the surface. There after put paragon on only right on top of it as it has
a tendency to dry up quickly. A fair amount should be used and let it sit for 15-25 mins then
should be wiped off like normal.

(470 words)
AIR FILTER MAINTENANCE FOR TRAXXAS
Traxxas is the market leader in ready-to-run (RTR) nitro and electric radio controlled models.
Traxxas continues to advance the RTR category with innovative thinking and fun designs that
make it easy for anyone to get started in the world of R/C models. From the phenomenally
successful T-Maxx and E-Maxx monster trucks to on road and off road vehicles, Traxxas defines
ready-to-run. Batteries, chargers and fuel (for nitro vehicles only) are not included with Traxxas
models and must be purchased separately

Air filter for the traxxas needs to be cleaned very importantly for regular flow of the fuel. In order
to achieve proper cleaning of the same a complete guidance is necessary. It is also important to
always run the engine with the air cleaner installed!

The air filter prevents harmful dirt and foreign objects from getting into your engine and destroying
it. A nitro engine is precision made and you don't want dirt and grit to get in their while it's running
at 40,000 RPM! At those astronomical engine speeds, dirt will quickly ruins lovely expensive
engine. Periodically, as the foam filter gets plugged with dirt (reducing power), one should
remove it from the engine and clean it with household dish washing liquid, Simple Green
degreaser, or some other degreaser. Gasoline or other strong solvents should be necessarily
avoided as these could damage the filter. In a pinch, one can also rinse the filter clean with
Rubbing Alcohol or even nitro fuel. It needs to be made sure that the filter element is dry before
re-oiling the filter. Moreover a small cable should be used to tie to secure the filter to the
carburetor to prevent the air filter falling off!

First the air filter from the carburetor needs to be removed. Then throttle is required to be opened
fully and squirt a one second burst of WD-40' into the carburetor. This also need to be done for
the glow plug hole inside of the cooling head.

Placing a towel over the glow plug area of the cooling head would enable to catch any WD-40'
that may come out of the engine. Next the engine is to be cranked over with the EZ-Start system
for about 10 seconds. If the model uses a pull starter, several series of short pulls should be
made in order to circulate the WD-40'. This procedure needs to be performed several times.

Then the air filter element from the filter housing should be removed. Clean the element and
housing components with warm soapy water or dish washing liquid and allow the pieces to dry
completely.

The air filter base needs to be squeezed just below the housing and then the base out should be
pulled out from one side for easy removal.

The element should be cleaned with fingers until completely shining. Compressed air can be
used to accelerate the drying process of the air filter components. Once the filter element is dry,
apply 30 drops of Traxxas air filter oil should be applied, part #5263, evenly around the entire
element.

Thirty drops of Traxxas air filter oil is suffice. Oil from the element should not be squeezed out.
Instead it should be spread evenly on to the element with fingers until there is an even color of oil
throughout the entire element. Then the filter element should be reinstalled into the filter housing.

Traxxas recommends to clean the air filter after every hour of runtime with the engine (approx.
one 500cc bottle of fuel). If the vehicle is operating in very dusty conditions, cleaning the air filter
after every 30 minutes of runtime will be necessary to promote long engine life.

(607 words)
BATTERY RECOMMENDATIONS FOR E-MAXX
It is important to know what battery packs should I buy and how to charge them? There are so
many battery packs available that it is hard to make specific brand recommendations. However,
here are a few points to keep in mind about batteries and charging.

If any battery pack gives higher the mAh rating, the longer the battery run time. That is, a 3000
mAh battery pack will provide with twice the run time of a 1500 mAh battery pack. Battery packs
with 2400, 3000 or 3300 mAh ratings are expensive to purchase. If cost is an issue, 1500 to 1800
mAh NiCD packs are very economical to purchase and work well in the E-Maxx The battery
packs should be 7.2 volts and have a standard Tamiya connector as well and should be
assembled with 6 sub-C sized cells.

The 6-cell NiCad or NiMH battery packs should be charged between 3 and 5 amps on a peak
detection charger designed for both the packs. For backyard bashing or general use, a 3 to 4
amp charge rate is recommended. For racing, a 5 amp charge rate is recommended, but lower
charge rates are fine too. If recharging the battery packs is required then they should be allowed
to cool down completely before any re-charging is done else the packs would be damaged.

While storing, NiCad battery packs should be completely discharged before they are recharged or
stored to maintain optimum performance. On the other hand, NiMH battery packs need not be to
be completely discharged before they are recharged, but it is recommended that NiMH packs be
fully discharged every 4 to 8 weeks. If NiMH packs are not going to be used for more than two
weeks they should be partially charged 30 to 50% of their maximum capacity. For long-term
storage of NiMH packs it is suggested that they should be fully charged. The easiest way to
discharge your battery packs is to simply run them in your E-Maxx until the truck slows to a crawl.

It is important to know how many battery packs should one buy? Six battery packs is an excellent
setup because then one can have two packs running E-Maxx, two packs charging and two packs
cooling, which means that obtaining uninterrupted run time. It is important to remember to let
battery packs cool down before charging them again or else it significantly decreases their life
expectancy.
Moreover it is more economical to have two battery chargers. It is also the only way to have a
whole day of uninterrupted run time or fun. Alternatively, a peak charger can also be purchased
that charges two battery packs at the same, such as the excellent MRC Super Brain 969 Pro
Charger.
Usually E-Maxx racers typically like to charge at 5 amps because their battery packs have a bit
more low-end punch or torque. If one is serious about E-Maxx racing, it is preferable to purchase
a charger(s) that allows charging up to 5 amps, such as the Integy 16X3-Pro v2.5 VESC or Novak
Millennium. However, for backyard bashing or sport use, charging packs at lower amps (3 to 4)
provides good performance and extends battery run time in comparison to charging at higher
amps. Also, battery packs that are charged at lower amps have an increased life expectancy in
comparison to packs charged at higher amps.
It is not difficult to choose between the type of the battery pack to be purchased. NiCad or NiMH
battery packs both work fine in the E-Maxx However, people that have a low budget NiCD
charger with a timer should stick with NiCD packs because these timed chargers were not
designed to properly charge NiMH packs.
Further, NiMH packs can be destroyed by excessive heat. So one needs to be careful not to
overcharge NiMH battery packs! NiMH packs are fully charged when they feel slightly warm. For
charging NiMH packs, a peak detection charger designed for NiMH batteries is recommended.

(663 words)
GETTING TO KNOW E-MAXX RC CAR
The E-Maxx is a radio controlled ( R/C ), 1/10 scale, electric powered, 4-wheel drive, monster
truck produced by Traxxas Corporation. When it comes to gut-wrenching, wheelie-popping
monster torque, nothing comes close to E-Maxx! Twin Titan 550 motors, trick 14.4V ESC power,
3-channel radio system, ball bearings, 8 oil-filled shocks, painted body and shift on the fly 2-
speed transmission all put the E-Maxx in a class by itself. E-maxx is the best, most innovative,
hobby quality monster truck. It comes as completely assembled and the body is painted and
trimmed.

While running the E-Maxx for the first time it important to totally check over the truck for loose
screws, nuts, wire connections and bolts. It is also a good idea to check the model over after a
few runs to make sure nothing has come loose from driving. It should be made sure that the
pinion grub screws are tight and that the pinions do not slide on the motor armatures. The slipper
clutch nut should be tightened fully. It is located on top of the spur gear spring, which is located
between the pinion gears. The bullet motor connections should be tightly pushed together. The
servo and ESC wires should also be fully pushed into the receiver the truck may function
erratically. Another reason to make the truck function erratically is if the crystal and radio crystal
are not fully pushed into their slots. Also, If sand gets inside ESC this can also make E-Maxx
function erratically.

Usually there are no problems with E-maxx but some trucks have known to be shipped with loose
pinion screws, slipper clutches and motor wire connections. It is advisable to check ones E-Maxx
over to ensure that the latter problems do not exist. Also, some of the first trucks produced had
unreliable electronic speed controls, which Traxxas replaced with the EVX. The EVX is an
excellent speed control.

A spool is technically called a differential spool. According to Traxxas, the differential spool
replaces the rear differential gears to make the truck unstoppable in hard-core climbing
maneuvers. The spool locks the rear axle, which in turn provides equal power to both the rear
wheels no matter what the truck drives over. Because the spool locks the differential, it should be
used strictly for off-road. If someone is building a radical, special purpose E-Maxx for straight-line
sand drags, hill climbing or pulling, then a spool needs to be installed in the front as well for total
4WD traction.

Sometimes the noise from some models of E-Maxx transmission seems loud. It can leave one
wondering as to why does it happen and what can be done to make it quieter? The reason behind
the same is that the 32-pitch gear transmission of the E-Maxx is rather noisy by design and this is
nothing to worry about. Nonetheless, if one wishes to reduce the gear noise, a bit of additional
transmission grease can be put on the gears or change to 48-pitch gears (pinions/spur). Also, a
check should be given to the pinion/spur gear mesh - too loose will create excessive gear
noise. A bit of silicone grease that is designed for transmissions isn't going to hurt the gears,
whether plastic or metal.

(536 words)
ADVANTAGES & DIISADVANTAGES OF THE E-MAXX
This is the most exciting electric R/C truck to be released in years. The E-Maxx is the best
performing electric monster truck on the market today and light years ahead of the competition.
The E-Maxx is perfect for both back yard bashing and racing.

E-Maxx has been so far the best handling large-sized electric monster truck ever produced by
Traxxas. It has more torque and top speed than any electric monster truck ever produced. Its the
suspension delivers 4 inches of maximum ground clearance and over 3.5 inches of super plush
suspension travel with eight oil-filled shocks.

It has twin fan-cooled 550 motors have 30% longer armatures and more torque than standard
540 size motors. Its 4-wheel drive makes the truck capable of going over any terrain and
improves handling on the race track, especially around curves. It includes an electronic speed
control (ESC), not a mechanical speed control or MSC. An ESC provides a lot better performance
than a MSC in terms of throttle response and battery run time, which is why you want one. The
stock ESC, which is called the EVX, is made by Novak and has many features, including
forward, reverse and brake functions. The overall design is very tough and can take a lot of
abuse.

Features of an E-maxx are very tough, molded composite chassis with battery cutouts that lower
the center of gravity when using side-by-side racing-style battery packs. The battery holders
accept both stick packs and side-by-side race packs. It comes with a custom painted body with
precut decal set. It has body mounting posts, which allows for a large variety of body choices.

It also has a two speed, manual shifting transmission. Low gear provides brutal acceleration and
tons of torque for climbing and doing wheelies. High gear provides an insane top speed of around
30 mph with 7-cell battery packs or 23 mph with 6-cell packs. Its pinion and spur gear changes
are very easy to do. Morever, a huge variety of gear options can be installed. Its stock motors
have internal fans and run very cool. Cooler running motors last longer than hot running motors.

E-maxx comes with ball-bearings, which improves performance in terms of top-end speed and
battery run times. It also comes with a slipper clutch, which reduces transmission damage. This is
especially true when jumping the truck. A very important feature of E-maxx is that it comes as
Ready-To-Run or RTR, which means that one does not have to build it or install a radio system.
Its battery packs are also easy to install and remove.

A huge assortment of aftermarket parts is available for improving both the looks and performance
of the E-Maxx. It is good for both backyards bashing and racing. It give an outstanding
performance at jumping because of awesome suspension system. The battery run times are
outstanding considering the size and weight of the E-Maxx. Morever its parts are easy to obtain
and can also be ordered online via various hobby e-shops.

As regards to the company, Traxxas provides outstanding customer support - probably the best in
the R/C industry. It has also changed the way people view the monster truck category. The
added advantage of this is that the E-Maxx comes within a very reasonable price category.

Although E-maxx has so many advantages. Nevertheless, it has its own drawbacks as well. Its
stock steering servo is somewhat weak; that is, the steering servo will not turn the E-Maxx tires
while the truck is stopped. It is also somewhat vulnerable to damage. A steering servo cover is
recommended for deep grass or brush running. Although the truck is marketed as ready-to-run,
but the tires need to be glued. It is also not offered as a kit and some people like to build their
own vehicles. if someone is into exact scale realism the E-Maxx is not for sucha person. E-maxxx
requires dual battery packs for operation, which means one has to buy a lot of batteries.
(662 words)
IMPORTANT CONSIDERATIONS WHILE USING RC CARS
RC hobbyists always want to have a great experience with their new RC car or truck. Therefore
they are always on a look out for special tips.

One needs to go through the owner's manuals thoroughly. Although it is more tempting to skip
this step, but this is probably the single most important thing that one can do. In order to prevent
any injury or damage to ones lovingly purchased a ultra high performance nitro vehicle, just
because if little ignorance of not going through the user’s manual is not really advisable. If one is
making a significant investment in a finely engineered nitro RC vehicle the best way to protect it is
by reading through the instructions.

Prepping and painting the body comes in next. If RC car or truck comes with a body that needs
to be painted, then prepping and painting is something that needs to be taken care of as well.
Initial break in of the engine should be done with the body shell off anyway in order to insure
maximum cooling to the engine. It is important to put the body aside such that it would not get
oily or dirty. If body is kept clean then prepping will be easier later when it is getting ready to
paint. The color or scheme you use to paint it can be as unique as ones individual choice. The
body shell acts as armor to protect your expensive engine and radio gear during use.

Gluing the tires to the wheels is very important. Many RC nitro cars and trucks require the tires to
be glued to the wheels. This is something that some people try to skip, but it is very highly
recommended that this should be done while the tires and wheels are clean. Once they get dirty,
it will be very hard to glue them properly. This is a simple step to ensure that all of the power will
be transmitted to the ground instead of resulting in slippage between the rubber tire and wheel.
The tires should be glued to the wheels using hobby grade cyanoacrylate (CA) glue. Super Glue
is a CA glue, but it is not usually recommended using this type of CA glue. Hobby grade CA glue
works better and can be easily found at a local hobby or arts/crafts supply store.

Foam air filter needs to be oiled properly before starting engine as it is usually shipped dry to
keep everything clean. Oiling ensures that dirt will stick to the oil and be trapped in the foam filter
element. Running without the oil will result in inefficient filtering of the air. Oiling can be done
simply by just placing several drops of light oil on the foam filter element. Gently pressing it down
several times to help distribute the oil evenly through out the foam element. If too much oil is
accidentally spilled on the filter, it can be squeezed by simply by a paper towel or rag. This will
help squeeze out excess oil into the rag or paper towel. Using a thick oil or grease, will simply
plug up filter and restrict air flow to engine there by reducing power. It would probably be best to
use an oil specifically designed for air filter use.

Engine should be run with air cleaner installed. The air filter prevents harmful dirt and foreign
objects from getting into your engine and destroying it. At those astronomical engine speeds of
40,000 RPM, dirt quickly ruins the engine. Periodically, as the foam filter gets plugged with dirt
one should remove it from the engine and clean it with household dish washing liquid, Simple
Green degreaser, or some other degreaser. Gasoline or other strong solvents as these could
damage your filter.

All engine break-in recommendations should be followed as given in the owner's manual. First
time running of a nitro engine largely determines how long the engine will last and how much
power the engine will produce. The engine should never be run full throttle during break in.
Being extra gentle during break in will be rewarded with longer engine life and maximum power
later. Lastly the limited slip differential(s) should be checked and adjusted if needed.

(704 words)
TXT-1 VS E-MAXX
Both the RC models are highly popular amongst the RC hobbyists. Therefore one is often posed
with a dilemma of which one to buy? If some important points are considered then the choice
becomes easier depending upon the convenience, experience and budget. E-Maxx is used for
racing and the TXT to climb steep hills and rocks. For backyard bashing trucks are fun to drive.

As regards to assembly TXT is a good choice for those who like to build their own RC kits. TXT
needs to be built up and radio system needs to be installed as well. In contrast, the E-Maxx
comes as Ready-to-Run (RTR), which means it is fully assembled and includes a radio system.

The E-Maxx is a lot cheaper than the TXT to get up and running. Therefore people with limited
budgets should opt for an E-maxx. The E-Maxx has enormous hop-up potential because there
are many aftermarket parts available for the E-Maxx. In contrast, there are very few hop-ups
available for the TXT.

Traxxas parts are easier to obtain and cheaper in the USA than Tamiya parts. If you live in the
USA this is something to consider. Thus parts support is more efficient in E-maxx. So is the
speed for E-maxx. The E-Maxx is faster than the TXT.

Another feature where E-maxx excels is jumping. E-Maxx is unbelievable at jumping because its
high speed allows you to obtain "big air" and its suspension easily absorbs the impact of massive
jumps. In contrast, the TXT doesn't move fast enough in stock form to make it fun to jump.
However, if modified motors and an ESC are installed into the TXT it can also be fun to jump and
its cantilever suspension easily absorbs the force of large jumps too.

Both the E-Maxx and TXT are good at climbing reasonably steep hills in stock form, but with a
few modifications either can be made to climb a lot better. In any event, the TXT maintains a
climbing edge over the E-Maxx.

Both trucks will go over nearly any terrain, but the TXT is a better rock crawler because it has
massive amounts of articulation and solid axles. Generally speaking, solid-axle trucks are better
for rock crawling than independent suspension trucks.

 The E-Maxx is excellent on the race truck and Maxx Truck racing is very popular in the USA. The
TXT does not perform as well on the race track as the E-Maxx and TXT racing is NOT popular in
the USA.

The TXT has limited gearing choices in comparison to the E-Maxx. Also, it is difficult to change
pinion gears on the TXT in comparison to the E-Maxx. To change pinion gears on the TXT you
parts of the central gearbox should be removed, which is a hassle.

As regards to durability, both the E-Maxx and TXT are durable and can take a lot of abuse and
require little effort to maintain. Similarly, both trucks can take backyard bashing and are great for
general use.

The TXT is a very scale realistic model in comparison to the E-Maxx. Also, some people claim
that only solid-axle trucks are true monster trucks.

(524 words)
THE ELECTRIC RC CARS
If one is just starting out in RC cars hobby, ready-to-run electric cars or trucks are the best choice
because they get working with very little effort - charge a battery pack and go. It is helpful to know
about some of the excellent, hobby-quality, electric vehicles that come completely assembled
with radio systems pre-installed. These vehicles are classified as ready-to-run (RTR) and are
ideal for backyard or street bashing. Most of these vehicles can also be used for competitive
racing; in particular, Team Associated and Losi vehicles are raced at local race clubs throughout
the USA and Canada.

In contrast, many times it is difficult to start a gas vehicle and they require a lot of adjustments to
run in comparison to electrics. As for top speed, either gas or electric cars and trucks can be very
fast, but generally speaking, gas vehicles have higher top speeds out of the box than electrics. A
gas vehicle will typically run in the 30 to 50 mph range, while electric vehicles will be in the 15 to
30 mph range.

In order to run any of these vehicles batteries and a charger is also needed. A Dynamite Prophet
Plus AC/DC Peak Charger (RC-DYN 4049), 8 'AA' batteries (RC-EH AA) and a 3000 or 3300
NiMH Stick Battery Pack (RC-VEN 1532 or RC-VEN 1540) is suggestible. For the E-Maxx, an
additional Stick Pack is also needed. By the way, if you can afford it, buying a few extra battery
packs is a good idea too.

While choosing the battery pack keep in mind that higher the mAh rating, longer is the battery run
time. That is, a 3000 mAh battery pack will provide you with twice the run time of a 1500 mAh
battery pack. Battery packs with 2400 or 3000 mAh ratings are expensive to purchase. If cost is
an issue, 1500 mAh NiCD packs are very economical to purchase and work well in any RC
vehicle.

It is important to know how to take care of batteries for the electric models and what care should
be taken while charging them, at what levels they should be discharged, what precautions to be
taken before storing them and re-using them.

In case of an E-maxx average battery run times is 8 min for 1500 mAh NiCD Sport Packs, 10 min
for 2000 mAh NiCad Sport Packs and 13 min for 3000 mAh NiMH Sport Packs. The battery run
times listed are based upon a stock E-Maxx in 2nd gear running on a typical outdoor dirt race
track. If you run E-Maxx is run in 1st gear then battery run times will be a lot longer than the ones
stated earlier. Also, it is important to note that battery run times depend upon a number of other
factors, such as, outside air temperature, gear ratios, weight of hop-ups on your truck, driving
style and the amperage the battery packs are charged at.

Some good models for electric RC cars for On-Road Cars are HPI Sprint Porsche RTR, Tamiya
Nissan 350Z Nismo XB Pro RTR, Tamiya Subaru Impreza WRC XB 2004 RTR, Team Associated
RC10 TC4 Touring RTR, Team Losi XXX-S Sport II Sedan RTR, Thunder Tiger TS-4 e Sport
Focus RTR, Traxxas 4-Tec RTR EP.

In case of Off-Road Stadium Trucks Traxxas Rustler RTR, Team Associated RC10 T4 Limited
Edition RTR, Team Losi XXX-T Sport RTR are good performers. Popular choices in category of
Off-Road Buggies are Tamiya XB Gravel Hound RTR, Tamiya XB Super, Manta Ray RTR,
Tamiya XB Rising Storm RTR, Team Associated RC10 B4 Special Edition RTR, Traxxas Bandit
RTR.

Tamiya Mighty Bull XB RTR - 2WD, Traxxas E-Maxx RTR - 4WD, Traxxas Stampede RTR - 2WD
excel in the category of Off-Road Monster Trucks.

(625 words)
PROS AND CONS OF SOME POPULAR RC MODELS
Tamiya wild Dagger, Tamiya Juggernaut 2 (Jug) , Tamiya Clod Buster (Clod), Tamiya Hummer
(Hummer), Traxxas Stampede (Pede), HPI RS4 MT (RS4 MT), etc are some pf the popular Rc
models. These models are fine-tuned and tested for general use or backyard bashing.

Tamiya Wild Dagger (WD) is unstoppable on most any terrain. It is durable, lightweight, has
decent speed with stock motors and gearing - about 15 mph and is very fast with modified
motors. Its dual motors provide a lot of torque and independent suspension. It jumps well and
climbs hills very well as its gears are very robust. The model is reasonably priced with a tough
Lexan truck body and requires zero maintenance. Moreover the model is fairly easy to assemble
and also contains outstanding assembly instructions.

Nevertheless, its simple steering servo setup results in some "bump-steer", although generally
steering is good. Its stock dampers need to be replaced with oil-filled shocks and all parts are not
stocked by all hobby stores. Its location of motors makes water running not really an option. It
contains plastic bushings with limited pinion choices, but stock gearing will appeal to most users

Tamiya Juggernaut 2 (Jug) is also 4x4 which is unstoppable on most any terrain. Its large size is
impressive and gives a very realistic looking as it has a lot of scale appeal. Its motors are
mounted up high so running in water is an option. Its dual motors provide a lot of torque and the
model is great for off road use and attracts a lot of attention. Its chassis and drive train are very
durable. It offers wide selection of pinion choices for a monster truck and also a wide selection of
motors can be installed. Its chrome wheels are outstanding looking and the model contains
outstanding assembly instructions. It is designed for torque and pulling and is a very popular truck
so parts are usually easy to obtain.

However, it is very costly to purchase and the truck is slow with the stock 540 motors. Its stock
dampers need to be replaced with oil-filled shocks. It also rolls over easily when turning at high
speeds, especially on pavement. It does not have independent suspension and also does not
climb hills well because of a high center of gravity. It usually rolls over. The biggest problem with
it is that it is a challenge to build for some people. Even after everything its body is easily
destroyed. Its center spur/pinions gear mesh somewhat tricky to set just right. Also, its
transmission is somewhat noisy

Tamiya Clod Buster (Clod) is also has same features as Tamiya Juggernaut 2. It also has many
after market upgrades for monster truck racing. But it is costly to upgrade for monster truck
racing. It also has similar shortcomings as Tamiya Juggernaut 2. Moreover its chassis easily
breaks when jumping and the model offeres limited pinion choices. Its top is somewhat heavy and
is also not very realistic looking in comparison to the Juggernaut.

Tamiya Hummer (Hummer) is 1/12 scale and is not exactly a monster truck but is fairly popularin
this category. It looks cool with body very realistic. It has oil shocks and independent suspension.
It also has decent speed with the stock motors and outstanding assembly instructions. But the
model rolls over easily when turning at speeds because of the high center of gravity the heavy
body creates. It has limited ground clearance and plastic bushings

(577 words)

								
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