L\l.A \:IJ.
1.34
Oirb!::l
uapanese
This is delicious! koitsu wa umai wa
;:: ~ I? 1;1: ?:l< ~ I t> !
Fantabulous! geki uma
~'.J" !
It melts in my mouth. kuchi no naka de torokete kuru
D(7) ,
;:: tl.,
,, ~?ilf) ~- .
Can I get seconds? okawari moraemasu ka
Sn)t> ') t> 6;t:l<1"nl ?
I want to marry the cook. tsukutta hito to kekkon shitai
t'F:;l tz ); c S Gt.: ~ I . MIL
You mao'd that shit down. omae paku paku kuna na
sM, Ii 1v•
..... Food benders
kuidaore
1H'11IJn
A "foo d ben de r" (kuidaore) is a Japanese tradi t ion whe rein you spen d an entire evening walking from restaurant to restaurant , progressively gorging yourself into glassy-eyed
HUnG~
.Japanese 135
stupor. Th is prac tice originated in the Osa ka area , but it's just as easy to eat yourself silly on gourmet c uisine in any of Tokyo'S 23 ward s.
c
LET'S GET SOME •• .
.. .nl shiyo ··· 1::: ~ J:: ?
Japanese food
washoku
'Ill :f.t
beef rice bowl gyudon ~H+
This is Japanese fast food : cheap and filling. You can find college kids horfing this shit down in any of the ub iquitous chain restaurants purveying these beef feasts: Yoshinoya, Matsuya. Kobe Ranputei. egg noodles ramen
7 - ;!-'/
Not the shilly instant noodles that got you through college. Real Japanese ramen is the stuff of dreams. There arewhole magazines devoted to finding the best ramen in Tokyo.
Korean barbecue yaki niku
m ~~
This has littl e to do with the soul food yo u are probably accustomed to . Thin slabs of t op -qrad e beef. often marinated. that you grill at your table.
Japanese pancake
okonomi yaki
Basically th is is a deep-triac pork cutlet.
Japanese stew oden
tJ"t'1v
You know it's winter, in Japan, when the convenience stores putt out these big vats of broth and start stewing stuff: eggs, potatoes, daikon, tofu. kamaboko. Trust me on this: the stuff at 7-B even is actually really good.
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HUnGn:t -Japanese 1.37
soups nabemono ilM~ Nabemono is an umbrella term for a number of soup dishes, including sukiyaki and shabushabu. tempura tempura ~ ..~~ '?>
This is like the asso rt ed deep-f ry platter you get at an Applebee's or some shit like that. Chinese food chii ka
q,:liI
Japanese Chinese food is like a less greasy version of American Chinese food, with higher quality ingredients. prettier waitresses. and no Spicy Wings.
curry kare
:IJ v-
You can get Indian- styl e curry in Japa n (check out Ji mbocno in Tokyo). alth oug h the word kare implies Japanese curry, which is more sweet than spicy. French food furansu ry6ri
7 7/ A *411
A lot of Japanese co oks actuall y go to France to study foreign cooking, so French food in Japan is probably more authentic than what you get in America, although I wouldn't know because I never eat the shit.
Italian food itaria ry6ri
1' :$' I) 7 *411
1.3B
D irc~ Japanese
Don't expect to find a lot of heavier dishes like lasagna in Japan, but if you're into spaghetti and other noodle dishes, Japanese spaghetti is pretty damn good. They generally serve pretty shitty wine, though.
·····Fast food
fasuto fudo
77 - AI'- 7 -t.:
Of course you can find a Mc Donald 's in even the m ost remote corner of the Eight Island s, and a hamburger there tastes pretty much the same as the one you ate in Whatever M id dle Ame rican tow n you may have come from . But if yo u' re going to eat fa st food in Japan, I suggest you try one of the follow ing native franchises , in d escending order. Americans have a lot to learn about their own cuisine.
c
LET'S GO TO...
... iko ze
···ft .::. ? tf.
Mas Burger masu
t A
Mosu is like the In-N-Out of Japanese fast food . They use quality beef and have all sorts of weird experimental burgers.
First Kitchen fakki n
7 7 ';I
'l=- /
Pronounced like "fucking ," these places are cheap , quick, and popular among high school kids. Freshness Burger furesshunesu baga
7 V ·;I;:"'::J. *A / ~ -jj HunGr~~
.Japanese .13 9
Freshness Burger is kind of a health- consctous burger joint. Unfortunately, that makes it less tasty than a Mos Burger,
although it's light years ahead of McDonald's,
Lotteria
rotteria [J ';I T I)
7
The name "Lotteria" makes it sound like they should be selling scratch-ofts instead of burgers and fries. It's like McOonald's but not made out of poo ,
Kentucky Fried Chicken kenta
7'/ '7
Except for very remote parts of Hokkaido, it is impossible to find tUrkey in Japan, so it has become tradition to get Kentucky Fried Chicken for Christmas dinner-and eat
only the skin, McDonald's makku
"'< ';1'7
The Golden Arches, Theonlyexciting thingabout Japanese McDonald's is that you can get corn soup there,
•.•.. Family restaurants
famiresu
7 7," VA
Have you ever been to a Denny's where they have a drink bar? You pay like three bu cks to drink all the coffee and orange juice and soda yo u want. Drink bars are pretty st andard at Japanese fa mi ly restauran ts, as well- but the exciting thing is that so me places -like Barniyan and Birudi- will occasionally have hard drink bars, too, where you pay a nominal fee for all the wine and liquor your composure can handle,
.140
Olrt:;~ .Japanese
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LET'S GO TO ...
... ike ze
'''IT :::: ? if.
Royal Host roiho (roiyaru hosuto)
D-1* ( D-1 1'JL-* A t- )
Royal Host is the standard-bearer for all family restaurants. A lot of meat-based dishes on the menu.
Denny's
denizu
T = - ::Z:
Denny's in Japan is somuch nicer than Denny's in America. Clean and tasty. with Japanese and American food.
Gusto
gasuto
;liA tGusto is cheap and easy. It's popular with college and high school kids.
Jonathan 's jona ijonasa n)
:; 3:r (:; 3
:r"!T / )
Jonathan's is kind of cheap and dirty. You see a lot of angry parents and whinykids there.
Casa
kasa
;h-"!T
Cas a has a lot of Salisbury steaks , curry. and omelet
dishes. None of which are great.
Saizeriya
seize (saizeriya)
'!t -1 it ( "!T -1 it I) -V)
HUnG~
..Japanese 141
Saizeriya is an Italian family restaurant-like Olive Garden except eci ble. Bamiyan bam i (bam iya)
I~ ~ (J~ - ~ -V/ )
Bamiyan isa Chinese family restaurant. The food isn't great and the service sucks, but the one by my house had the hard drink bar. Yumean yumean
~ }ll
The Chinese food at Yumean isn't that great , either, but I would place ~ an inch or so above Bamiyan.
Don don (sutekl no don)
e!u (;AT - =\' O) e !u)
"Don," as this steak house is affectionately caned, makes a damn good steak. Applebees, Chili's, Outback- they don 't got sh~ on the Don. Bi kku ri Donkey dank; (bikkuri donkQ ~ / =\' - U.h
< t)
~
/ =\' - )
Bikkuri Donkey does not purvey donkey-based cuisine. They specialize in Salisb ury steaks , and do a g ood job with it.
Bldy birudi t: }~ T
«
Bldy (this is th e actual spelling) has a very eclectic menu, but none of it is great. Fortunately, they are reputed to have the hard drink bar.
142 Oirb!:::l \Japanese
•...-Cafes
kissaten
PM*r.5
St arbucks is every bit as ubiquitous in Tokyo as in New York and has better co ffee than other chain alternatives, But if you're a hippie who feeis like Starbucks harshes your socially conscious mellow, check out some of the Japanese coffeehouses. Doutor has bagel sandwches! Starbucks sutaba
A'7/~
Like Japanese bra sizes, drinks at a Japanese Starbucks are all one size smaller than their name suggests. so that a -medium- corresponds to a "small- in America.
Ooutor
dotoru
r t- - )(,
At Dout or, you get the se exhau sted businessmen
chain-smoking and drinking coffee next to bag ladies mumbling into theirteacups. The coffee ain't great, but the atmosphere has no pretensions.
Segafredo seqafuredo
-E:ti7 v-
r
Segafredo specializes in sticky drinks like the "Pina Colada Yogurt Granita." They are leading the whole Frappuccino genre into the 21st century.
Renoir runoaru
)(,/ 7 - )(,
Pretentious and froufrou. Renoir is the type of place that frowns on to-go orders and prefers for you to sit down with
HUnGn::l ..Japanese 143
all the other widowed madams until you order a tirarnisu out of sheer anxiety.
•...·Sushi expert
sushi ISO ~~im
Oh, you thought Japanese slang was just for punkass kids? Well, tell that to the septuagenarian chef beh ind the sushi bar pulling his knrte through a yellowtail with all the precision of a brain surgecn. He still has shrapnel in his knee from the Russo-Japanese war and knows more sushi slang than a rapper knows Ebonies. So try out some of these words next time you're at a sushi restaurant and see if nobody notices t hat yo u' re a b ig fat American who rub s his c hop stic ks together and then orders a Coke wrth his California roil.
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CAN I GET SOME ...
.. .kudasai
water
.. . < t::: ~ ~\ .
ohiya EU-~
soy sauce
murasaki
b. 7'!T=\=tea
agari
iY H) .d;
ginger gari
jj I)
check
oaiso
E , ~~ ;:(t'=f.. - . This is total shit.
kuso dayo kore
o'/ t.=J:., z:n.
HUrlGr!:::I
.:Japanese 145
This is a shit among shit. kuso no naka no kuso dane
"fPiH \
Kuwazu-girai is a game that Japanese folks like to play at izakaya and ot her restaurants that have small, tapa s-like dishes. The premise of the game is this: everybody orders three things -two they absolutely love and one they can't stand. Japanese izakaya usually have extensive enough menus so that it's easy to find something you hate . Then you take turn s consuming yo ur three d ishes under the scrutinizing gazes of your companions, and they try to guess which was the one that you actually hate. Most people don't realize what bad actors t hey are, and nothing is funnier than watching a bad actor act - especially when they are overcompensating for nausea by pretending to savor and relish something that is making them sick. It's a great way to get to know people's culinaryand dramatic inclinations- and a rareopportunity to eat fermented soy beans. Bon appetitl
HUnGrt:I Japanese .147
..... About the Author
Matt Fargo is the owner of one of the world's dirtiest mouths. He has worked in Japan as a writer, translator, and musician among other things, subsequently earning his Master's degree in Japanese Literature at UC Berkeley. He currently lives in New York, where he enjoys the metropolitan propensity for filthy language. If you get good enough at Japanese, you can read his first book, r;gm~H!iI1i:*J ,or you can check out his other projects at matthewfargo.com.
150
GET
Next time you're in Japan or ju st chattin' in Japanese with your friends, drop the text book formal ity and bust out wit h expressions they never teach you in school, includ ing:
D!RTY
• cool slang • f unny insults • explicit sex terms • raw swear words
ISBN10: 1-56975-565-5 ISBN13 : 978 -1 -56975-565-5
510 0 0 $10 .00
u.s.
Vlyss es Press
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