Top Chefs in San Francisco

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					E2     BAY AREA NEWS GROUP                 100                                                       FOOD & WINE                                                        WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2009

                                                            ALA CARTE tips, tastes, tools                                                                               FOOD & WINE events

                                                                 Top Chefs in San Francisco
                                                                                                                                                                        n Cocktails for a Cause: Now-through
      Cookbook talks                                                                                                                                                    Nov. 19. Sample appetizer short rib
                                                                                                                                                                        sliders and hamachi and sip specialty
      for armchair                                   Those “Top Chef” guys are everywhere these          Piperade
                                                                                                                                                                        cocktails, such as “The Achiever”
                                                                                                                                                                        with Ketel One Citroen, Cointreau
      gourmands                                   days — waving their spatulas on the popular
                                                  Bravo-TV series, popping up at foodie fests            Serves 4-6
                                                                                                                                                                        and pear puree, at Quattro Restau-
                                                                                                                                                                        rant and Bar at the Four Seasons
                                                  and making guest appearances at several local          8 red and green bell peppers, finely sliced                    Hotel Silicon Valley, and the hotel and
         Put down the whisk and                   benefits. This weekend’s TrueChild Celebrity                                                                           EMC Corp. will donate a portion of
                                                                                                         1 onion finely sliced
     crack open a book. A whole                   Cook-off features “Top Chef’s” Tif-                                                                                   proceeds to Build, a charity that sup-
                                                                                                                       6 garlic cloves, crushed                         ports high schools. 2050 University
     slew of enticing new foodie                  fani Faison, Jamie Lauren and Casey                                  ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil                     Ave., East Palo Alto; 650-470-2889;
     books are out there, and many                Thompson, facing off against Top Chef                                ½ cup white wine                       
     of those authors are coming to               Master Elizabeth Falkner Oct. 24 at the                              6 large tomatoes, chopped
     town. Among them:                                                                                                                                                  n Chefs Who Care dinner: 5 p.m. Oct.
                                                  San Francisco Ferry Building; $150; www.                             1 teaspoon sugar
         n First Course: Bay Area                                                                                                                                       21. Half of the ticket price from three-
                                                                                               Pinch Piment d’Espelette (Basque                 course French dinner at Beausejour
     chef Cindy Pawlcyn talks about                  Then sample the cooking of “Top                                   ground red pepper)                               Los Altos benefits the Community
     her book, “Cindy Pawlcyn’s                   Chef’s” Mattin Noblia and Ryan Scott,                                Salt and pepper                                  Services Agency’s Food and Nutrition
     Appetizers,”                                 Campton Place’s Srijith Gopinathan                                   1 bay leaf                                       Center. $26 at the door. Call for reser-
     and hosts a                                           and RNM Restaurant’s Justine                                4 eggs, poached                                  vations: 650-810-2233. 170 State St.,
     cooking demo at                                       Miner on Nov. 5 at San Fran-          Mattin Noblia         2 slices Serrano ham, fried                      Los Altos;
     San Francisco’s                                       cisco’s Sip & Savor celebration.                            1 teaspoon chopped parsley                       n Chocolate Menu: Oct. 23-24. Michael
     Ferry Market-                                         The fundraiser helps support                                    1. Saute the peppers, onions and garlic      Recchiuti of Recchiuti Confections is
     place at 11 a.m.                                     after school and day care programs for         in the oil over medium-high heat.                              partnering with Marché executive chef
     Oct. 24. Get                                         some of the city’s neediest families. YMCA         2. Deglaze with wine and let cook for a few min-           Guillaume Bienaimé on a five-course
     the details at                                      director Tanya Bluford calls it “good food      utes. Add tomatoes, sugar, Basque Piment and bay,              menu featuring chocolate in every
     Book Passage,                                       and good wine for a very, very worthy                                                                          course. Reservations from 5:30 p.m.
                                                                                                         and cook 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Check
     bookpassage.                                                                                                                                                       on. $65 per person; wine is extra.
                                                        cause”; $75;             seasoning. Remove bay leaf.
     com.                                                                                                                                                               Marché is at 898 Santa Cruz Ave.,
                                                           Here’s a culinary sneak peek from Noblia,         3. Spoon the pepper mixture into a cazuela or              Menlo Park; 650-324-9092; www.
         n Cook-                                       the red-kerchiefed Basque chef whos”e ouster other ovenproof dish. Top with the ham and eggs, and      
     ing Dinner:                                       from the current season of “Top Chef left         a sprinkling of parsley and serve.                             n Yoga Workshop and Lunch: 11 a.m.
     The founders of Stockton’s                       teammates — and many fans — disconsolate.                  — Mattin Noblia, Iluna Basque executive chef           Oct. 24. Bring your mat and towel
     A Tavola Together, chefs Rima
                                                                                                                                                                        for a 75-minute Jivamukti yoga class
     Barkett and Claudia Pruett,                                                                                                                                        (all levels), followed by an 80-min-
     have a message: Families who
     cook together don’t just stay
     together, they’re healthier,
                                                        Newcomers join Bay Area dining scene                                                                            ute cooking demo. Or come for the
                                                                                                                                                                        cooking session only. On the menu:
                                                                                                                                                                        curried winter squash soup, barley
     happier and better fed. Meet                                                                                                                                       mushroom risotto, coconut black rice
     the authors of “Cooking Din-                 Dining Tips                                                                           San Francisco, Hubert           pudding and mango mousse parfait.
                                                       Ooo, Peru:                                                                       Keller’s latest Burger          $50. Draeger's, 222 E. Fourth Ave.,
     ner: Simple Italian Fam-                           n
                                                  Peruvian cuisine is sud-                                                              Bar outpost opened at           San Mateo; 650-685-3704; www.
     ily Recipes Everyone Can                                                                                                           Macy’s Union Square
     Make” at Alameda’s Books                     denly hot. First came                                                                                       
                                                  Bocanova, a new wave                                                                  last Friday. Keller’s              Harvest Moon at the Doon: 6-9 p.m.
     Inc. Oct. 24 from 2 to 4 p.m.;                                                                                                     whimsical takes in-

     1344 Park St.; 510-522-2226.                 Pan-American restau-                                                                                                  Oct. 27. Wine, food, silent and live auc-
                                                  rant that just opened in                                                              clude everything from           tions, to benefit the Homeless Garden
         n From Demon Rum
                                                  Oakland’s Jack London                                                                 Black Angus beef,               Project. $50. Bonny Doon Vineyard
     to Cult Cabernet: Author                                                                                                           buffalo and salmon
                                                  Square. Now it’s La                                                                                                   cafe/tasting room, 328 Ingalls St.;
     Garrett Peck will discuss his                                                                                                      burgers ($8.50-$16.50)          Santa Cruz. 831-426-3609, ext. 2;
     new book, “The Prohibition                   Costanera (pictured).
                                                  Perched on Montara’s                                                                  to a totally over the 
     Hangover,” at San Francisco’s                                                                                                      top version with Kobe
     second oldest saloon, Elixir, at             beachfront, this new,                                                                                                 n Wente Vineyards Winemaker’s Dinner:

                                                  modern Peruvian fusion                                                                beef, foie gras and             6:30-9 p.m. Oct. 29. Karl Wente hosts
     7 p.m. Oct. 22; at the Lafayette                                                                                                   shaved truffles ($60).           a winemaker dinner featuring gourmet
                                                  restaurant offers spec-
     Book Store from 3 to 5 p.m.                                                            to open a second Sancho’s in       Thirsty? Try the milkshake               four-course dining with wine pairings.
                                                  tacular views, Pisco-based
     Oct. 25; and at Google head-                                                           Palo Alto — a sister joint to      bar, or choose something                 $89-$109. 5050 Arroyo Road, Liver-
                                                  cocktails and such flavorful
     quarters in Mountain View                    fare as Cebiche Mixto ($14), a            complement his Redwood City        naughtier from the extensive             more; 925-456-2405; www.wentevine-
     at 1 p.m. Oct. 29. Peck calls it             seviche of halibut and shrimp,            taqueria. Good news! Sancho’s      wine and beer menus. Open      
     “A newfangled Old-Fashioned                  and a duck breast sauteed with            Palo Alto began dishing up its     daily, lunch and dinner. Macy’s          n San Francisco Gluten-Free Cooking
     with a chaser of history.”                   garlic, cilantro, ginger and              famous fish tacos ($3.95) — bat-    Union Square, Sixth Floor,               Spree — 6:30 to 9 p.m. Oct. 30. Featur-
     Details at prohibitionhangover.              orange ($16). Open Tuesday-               tered or grilled, with chipotle    San Francisco; 415-296-4272;             ing 10 top Bay Area chefs, paired with
     com.                                         Sunday, 5 p.m. to midnight.               rémoulade — and carne asada                         area doctors in a gluten-free challenge.
         n Ode to Joe: Author Wona                                                          ($10.95) two weeks ago. Open                                                $50/advance; $75/door; $35 for
                                                  La Costanera, 8150 Cabrillo
     Miniati discusses and signs her                                                        10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday-Sat-      Send your Bay Area restaurant            students. Treasure Island Bldg. 1, San
                                                  Highwy.; 650-728-1600;                                                                                                Francisco;
     new book, “The Trader Joe’s                        urday, till 8 p.m. Sunday. 491     tips to food editor Jackie Burrell,
     Companion: A Portable                           n Taqueria Nouveau:                    Lytton Ave. at Cowper, Palo        jburrell@bayareanewsgroup.
     Cookbook” at 2 p.m. Nov. 15                  Rumors were swirling that chef            Alto; 650-322-TACO; sancho         com, and South Bay details               More online at www.mercury
     at Kepler’s Books, Menlo Park;               Adam Torres of Boulevard and                         to Linda Zavoral, lzavoral@     or www.                                                                              n Burger Bash: And up in               
                                                  Village Pub fame was going

Reds                                   FOUR FALL REDS
                                       n 2008 SANTA JULIA
                                                                         Provencal-Inspired Leg of Lamb
                                                                         Serves 6 or more
                                                                                                                                                Harvest Pork Chops
                                                                                                                                                with Apples
                                                                                                                                                                                   Crisp Braised
                                                                                                                                                                                   Pork Shoulder
From Page 1                            ORGANICA MALBEC: A                    Serve with 2007 Domaine La Milliere Cotes Du Rhone                 and Red Onions                     Serves 3-4
2008 Santa Julia Organ-                medium-bodied, intense
ica Malbec from Argentina              malbec from Argentina with                                                                               Serves 2                             Serve with a Benaza Mancia
                                                                         1 boneless leg of lamb               1 tablespoon mustard
($10.99), has been a major             aromas and flavors of black       6 sprigs fresh rosemary              1 tablespoon ground                  Serve with a 2008 Efeste        Monterrei 2008 from Spain.
hit with the store’s wine club         currant and spice. $10.99,        4 sprigs fresh thyme                     toasted fennel seed           Evergreen Vineyard Riesling.       2 pound boneless pork
members.                               Pleasant Hill Wine Mer-           6 cloves garlic                      2 tablespoons olive oil
    Bankerd pairs the wine             chants, Pleasant Hill.                                                                                2-3 pork chops                            picnic shoulder
                                                                         1 tablespoon anchovy paste           Kosher salt, pepper                                                  1 teaspoon salt
with a Cinnamon-                       n 2007 LINE SHACK                                                                                     1 tablespoon olive oil
Spice Glazed Meat-                                                           1. Coarsely chop herbs and garlic. Mix with anchovy, mustard,   2 teaspoons kosher salt               1½ teaspoons olive oil
                                       SYRAH SAN ANTONIO
loaf, which calls for                                                    fennel and oil.                                                     ½ teaspoon black pepper               1 carrots, cut into 2-inch
                                       VALLEY: Full-bodied and
savory herbs such as                                                         2. Untie the lamb, season with salt and pepper and spread half ¾ cup Riesling                             pieces
                                       tannic with flavors and
oregano, sage, and                     aromas of black cherries,         the marinade on the inside. Retie the lamb, season outside with     1 tablespoon butter                   1 celery rib, cut the same
tarragon. But the in-                  plums and chocolate.              salt and pepper, and spread with the remaining marinade. Cover      2 tablespoons brown sugar             ½ onion, cut the same
gredient that makes                    $15.99, The Wine Steward,         and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours.                                 2-3 tablespoons vegetable             1 bay leaf
magic with the mal-                    Pleasanton.                           3. An hour before roasting, remove lamb from refrigerator. Pre-     oil                               ¼ teaspoon each black pep-
bec is apple sauce,                                                      heat oven to 375. Cook lamb on roasting rack for 15 to 25 minutes 1 unpeeled Fuji apple, cored                percorns, juniper berries,
                                           n   2007 DOMAINE LA
which        Bankerd                                                     per pound, until internal temperature reaches 130 F. Remove and                                               mustard seeds, coriander
                                                MILLIERE COTES DU                                                                                and sliced thickly
pours on top of                                  RHONE: A fruit-for-     let rest for at least 30 minutes, uncovered. Slice and serve with                                             seeds
the meatloaf be-                                                                                                                             1 medium red onion, sliced
                                                  ward, grenache-        white beans, roast potatoes and/or root vegetables                  6-8 caraway seeds                     Pinch cumin and parsley
fore baking.                                      based wine with                                — John Gillis, North Berkeley Wine Imports Dash nutmeg                                seeds, optional
    “The malbec                                   aromas and fla-                                                                                                                  2-3 boiling potatoes, quar-
pairs perfectly                                   vors of black fruit,                                                                        1. Rub chops with olive oil,             tered
with the sweet-                                   spice and earth.       California Comfort                                               salt and pepper. Set aside.              1½-2 cups water
ness of the apple-
sauce,” she says.
                                                   $14.36, North         Cinnamon Glazed Meatloaf                                             2. In a small saucepan,              1 tablespoon vegetable oil
                                                   Berkeley Imports,     Serves 5-6                                                       bring wine, butter, and                  Italian parsley, chopped
“I think it (the                                   Berkeley.                                                                              brown sugar to a boil, then
wine) has a lot                                                             Pair with a Santa Julia 2008 Argentina Organica Malbec.                                                     1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
                                                    n2008 BENAZA                                                                          lower heat and simmer until
of character, like                                                                                                                                                                      2. Pat pork dry and sprinkle
my meatloaf.”                                       MENCIA MON-          ½ pound ground beef               ¼ cup celery, diced            syrupy.
                                                                                                                                                                                   all over with salt. In a large,
    If you’re look-                                 TERREI: Light to     ½ pound ground pork               1 teaspoon dried oregano           3. Heat vegetable oil in
                                                                                                                                                                                   heavy, ovenproof pot, heat
ing for character,                                  medium in body       ¾ cup dried Italian-style         1 teaspoon garlic powder       a large cast iron skillet on
                                                    with lively blue                                                                                                               olive oil over moderately high
Jim Denham of                                                               breadcrumbs                    ¼ teaspoon each tarragon,      medium high. Add apple and
                                                    fruit, spice and                                                                                                               heat until hot. Brown pork on
The Wine Stew-                                                           1 egg                                 sage                       onion and cook until apples
                                                    only 12 percent                                                                                                                all sides, about 10 minutes.
ard in Pleasanton                                                        ¼ cup each yellow, orange         Salt and pepper to taste       are soft and onions are trans-
                                                     alcohol. $12.99,       and red sweet bell pep-
                                                                                                            ⁄3 cup applesauce                                                      Transfer to a plate.
suggests the 2007                                                                                                                         lucent. Remove to bowl.
                                                     K&L Wine               pers, minced                   1 teaspoon cinnamon                                                          3. Add carrots, celery and
Line Shack Syrah                                                                                                                              4. Bring skillet back
                                                     Merchants,          ¼ cup red onion, minced           2-3 slices applewood bacon to medium high and sear                      onion to pot and cook, stirring
San Antonio Val-
                                                      Redwood City.                                                                                                                occasionally, until browned.
ley ($15.99), “a cool                                                                                                                     chops on both sides. Reduce
new wine” that hails                                                                                                                                                               Return pork to pot, along with
                                                                            1. Preheat oven to 425. Mix together the ground meats,        heat to medium and cook
from the San Anto-                                                                                                                                                                 bay leaves, spices, potatoes
                                                                         breadcrumbs, egg, vegetables and all the seasonings, except the  through, about 9 minutes.
nio Valley, a fairly                                  — he cooked                                                                                                                  and water (use a mixture of
                                                                         cinnamon. Pat the meat mixture into a loaf pan.                  Remove chops to a plate and
new       grape-grow-                                 Mediterranean                                                                                                                water and white wine, if you
                                                      comfort food at       2. Mix applesauce and cinnamon, and spread over top of        tent with foil.
ing area in southern                                                                                                                                                               wish), and bring to a simmer.
                                                   Calistoga’s Cin Cin   meatloaf. Top with bacon strips. Bake until no pink remains, 30-     5. Return the apple
Monterey County, just                                                                                                                                                              Cover pot, transfer to oven
                                      — Gillis has always favored        40 minutes. (Note: Leftovers make great sandwiches.)             mixture to the skillet with
west of King City and north                                                                                                                                                        and braise, turning pork once,
of Paso Robles.                       the food-friendly wines of the                   — Victoria Bankerd, Pleasant Hill Wine Merchants the meat drippings. Cook                   for about 2 hours or until
                                      southern Rhone, he says. His                                                                        on medium high, stirring
    “It’s got the gift of lime-                                                                                                                                                    center is tender but not fall-
stone that we’re used to see-         favorite fall red wine, the gre-                                                                    occasionally until browned.
                                                                                                           wild thyme often found in the Stir in caraway seeds. To                 ing apart.
ing in some of those areas,”          nache-based 2007 Domaine           “The malbec pairs                 Mediterranean basin.                                                         4. Transfer pork to a cut-
says Denham, who pairs the            La Milliere Cotes Du Rhone                                                                          serve, place a puddle of syrup
wine with braised balsamic            is a perfect example, with its     perfectly with                        If you like earthy wines, on a plate and sprinkle with              ting board and keep warm.
                                                                                                           Joe Manekin of K&L Wine nutmeg. Arrange pork chops                      Pour braising liquid through
lamb chops. “But because              earthy notes and acidity.          the sweetness of                  Merchants in Redwood City atop the sauce and top with                   a sieve into a bowl, discard-
the San Antonio Valley lies               “It’s got lots of fruit and
between the coastal moun-             pepper, it’s delicious young,      the applesauce.                   suggests mencia, a red grape the apple-onion mixture.                   ing solids. Skim fat and keep
                                      and it ages quite well,” he                                             native to the Bierzo region                                          liquid warm.
tain chain, it doesn’t have the
                                      says. “The southern Rhones
                                                                         I think it (the                      of northwestern Spain. Once
                                                                                                                                                              — Jim Denham,             5. Cut meat across the grain
usual cooling sea influences                                                                                                                                 The Wine Steward
of the appellation.”                  are easy to like, well-priced      wine) has a lot of                   thought to be a cousin of cab-                                       into thick slices. Heat vegetable
                                                                                                                                                                                   oil in a 12-inch heavy nonstick
    The result of the warmer          and are really some of the best                                         ernet franc, mencia grapes
climate is a juicy, medium-           wine values in the world.”         character, like my                   produce wines that are            to the west and cooler. As a       skillet. Sear pork slices, turning
bodied wine that is full of               While the wine retails for     meatloaf.”                           spicy, medium in body, and
                                                                                                              pair very well with food. As
                                                                                                                                                result, it churns out mencia       once, about 3 minutes per
                                                                                                                                                                                   batch. Transfer to plates, spoon
blueberry flavors, he says,            $17.99, Gillis says the shop                                                                              that is lighter, brighter, and
with plenty of complexity and         will honor the by-the-case                    — Victoria Bankerd        a result, they’re a favorite in   lower in alcohol (this one’s       some braising liquid over pork,
personality.                          price of $14.36 a bottle (a 20                                          the bistros and wine bars of      12.5 percent). To highlight        garnish with chopped parsley,
    (When Denham’s in the             percent discount) if you want                                           Spain.                            the fruit, Manekin serves          and serve.
mood for a fall white, he ac-         to try it.                         in the oven is just a great fall        “You’re going to start see-    the wine slightly chilled (half        — Joe Manekin, K&L Wine
companies his favorite pork               Gillis serves the Domaine      thing,” Gillis says. “South-         ing more mencia (here) be-        an hour in the fridge should          Merchants, adapted from an
chop dish with a 2008 Efeste          La Milliere with a Proven-         ern Rhones go well with this         cause it’s very different from    do), with a crisp braised         recipe
Evergreen Vineyard Ries-              çal-style roasted leg of lamb      preparation because the              a lot of Spanish wines out        pork shoulder, browned on
ling.)                                that he rubs inside and out        herbs, particularly the fennel       there right now,” Manekin         all sides then simmered in
    John Gillis, a buyer with         with toasted and ground fen-       seeds, really highlight the gar-     says.                             juniper berries and seeds of       and acidity in the wine cuts
North Berkeley Wine Im-               nel seeds, garlic, rosemary,       rigue in the wine.” Garrigue            His pick, the unoaked          cumin, coriander and mus-          through the rich, fatty, slow-
ports, also looks to a Rhone          thyme, anchovy paste, mus-         is the term for the aromatic,        2008 Benaza Mencia Mon-           tard. Manekin calls it a con-      braised meat,” he says. “The
varietal for his fall pick. A self-   tard and olive oil.                lime-tolerant shrubs such as         terrei ($12.99), hails from       trast pairing.                     entire flavor profile is very
described recovering chef                 “The smell of leg of lamb      lavender, sage, rosemary and         Monterrei, which is farther          “The freshness of the fruit     fall.”

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