E2 BAY AREA NEWS GROUP 100 FOOD & WINE WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2009
ALA CARTE tips, tastes, tools FOOD & WINE events
Top Chefs in San Francisco
n Cocktails for a Cause: Now-through
Cookbook talks Nov. 19. Sample appetizer short rib
sliders and hamachi and sip specialty
for armchair Those “Top Chef” guys are everywhere these Piperade
cocktails, such as “The Achiever”
with Ketel One Citroen, Cointreau
gourmands days — waving their spatulas on the popular
Bravo-TV series, popping up at foodie fests Serves 4-6
and pear puree, at Quattro Restau-
rant and Bar at the Four Seasons
and making guest appearances at several local 8 red and green bell peppers, finely sliced Hotel Silicon Valley, and the hotel and
Put down the whisk and beneﬁts. This weekend’s TrueChild Celebrity EMC Corp. will donate a portion of
1 onion finely sliced
crack open a book. A whole Cook-off features “Top Chef’s” Tif- proceeds to Build, a charity that sup-
6 garlic cloves, crushed ports high schools. 2050 University
slew of enticing new foodie fani Faison, Jamie Lauren and Casey ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil Ave., East Palo Alto; 650-470-2889;
books are out there, and many Thompson, facing off against Top Chef ½ cup white wine www.fourseasons.com.
of those authors are coming to Master Elizabeth Falkner Oct. 24 at the 6 large tomatoes, chopped
town. Among them: n Chefs Who Care dinner: 5 p.m. Oct.
San Francisco Ferry Building; $150; www. 1 teaspoon sugar
n First Course: Bay Area 21. Half of the ticket price from three-
truechild.org. Pinch Piment d’Espelette (Basque course French dinner at Beausejour
chef Cindy Pawlcyn talks about Then sample the cooking of “Top ground red pepper) Los Altos benefits the Community
her book, “Cindy Pawlcyn’s Chef’s” Mattin Noblia and Ryan Scott, Salt and pepper Services Agency’s Food and Nutrition
Appetizers,” Campton Place’s Srijith Gopinathan 1 bay leaf Center. $26 at the door. Call for reser-
and hosts a and RNM Restaurant’s Justine 4 eggs, poached vations: 650-810-2233. 170 State St.,
cooking demo at Miner on Nov. 5 at San Fran- Mattin Noblia 2 slices Serrano ham, fried Los Altos; www.csacares.org/cwc/.
San Francisco’s cisco’s Sip & Savor celebration. 1 teaspoon chopped parsley n Chocolate Menu: Oct. 23-24. Michael
Ferry Market- The fundraiser helps support 1. Saute the peppers, onions and garlic Recchiuti of Recchiuti Confections is
place at 11 a.m. after school and day care programs for in the oil over medium-high heat. partnering with Marché executive chef
Oct. 24. Get some of the city’s neediest families. YMCA 2. Deglaze with wine and let cook for a few min- Guillaume Bienaimé on a five-course
the details at director Tanya Bluford calls it “good food utes. Add tomatoes, sugar, Basque Piment and bay, menu featuring chocolate in every
Book Passage, and good wine for a very, very worthy course. Reservations from 5:30 p.m.
and cook 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Check
bookpassage. on. $65 per person; wine is extra.
cause”; $75; http://sipandsavor.org. seasoning. Remove bay leaf.
com. Marché is at 898 Santa Cruz Ave.,
Here’s a culinary sneak peek from Noblia, 3. Spoon the pepper mixture into a cazuela or Menlo Park; 650-324-9092; www.
n Cook- the red-kerchiefed Basque chef whos”e ouster other ovenproof dish. Top with the ham and eggs, and restaurantmarche.com.
ing Dinner: from the current season of “Top Chef left a sprinkling of parsley and serve. n Yoga Workshop and Lunch: 11 a.m.
The founders of Stockton’s teammates — and many fans — disconsolate. — Mattin Noblia, Iluna Basque executive chef Oct. 24. Bring your mat and towel
A Tavola Together, chefs Rima
for a 75-minute Jivamukti yoga class
Barkett and Claudia Pruett, (all levels), followed by an 80-min-
have a message: Families who
cook together don’t just stay
together, they’re healthier,
Newcomers join Bay Area dining scene ute cooking demo. Or come for the
cooking session only. On the menu:
curried winter squash soup, barley
happier and better fed. Meet mushroom risotto, coconut black rice
the authors of “Cooking Din- Dining Tips San Francisco, Hubert pudding and mango mousse parfait.
Ooo, Peru: Keller’s latest Burger $50. Draeger's, 222 E. Fourth Ave.,
ner: Simple Italian Fam- n
Peruvian cuisine is sud- Bar outpost opened at San Mateo; 650-685-3704; www.
ily Recipes Everyone Can Macy’s Union Square
Make” at Alameda’s Books denly hot. First came draegerscookingschool.com.
Bocanova, a new wave last Friday. Keller’s Harvest Moon at the Doon: 6-9 p.m.
Inc. Oct. 24 from 2 to 4 p.m.; whimsical takes in-
1344 Park St.; 510-522-2226. Pan-American restau- Oct. 27. Wine, food, silent and live auc-
rant that just opened in clude everything from tions, to benefit the Homeless Garden
n From Demon Rum
Oakland’s Jack London Black Angus beef, Project. $50. Bonny Doon Vineyard
to Cult Cabernet: Author buffalo and salmon
Square. Now it’s La cafe/tasting room, 328 Ingalls St.;
Garrett Peck will discuss his burgers ($8.50-$16.50) Santa Cruz. 831-426-3609, ext. 2;
new book, “The Prohibition Costanera (pictured).
Perched on Montara’s to a totally over the www.homelessgardenproject.org.
Hangover,” at San Francisco’s top version with Kobe
second oldest saloon, Elixir, at beachfront, this new, n Wente Vineyards Winemaker’s Dinner:
modern Peruvian fusion beef, foie gras and 6:30-9 p.m. Oct. 29. Karl Wente hosts
7 p.m. Oct. 22; at the Lafayette shaved trufﬂes ($60). a winemaker dinner featuring gourmet
restaurant offers spec-
Book Store from 3 to 5 p.m. to open a second Sancho’s in Thirsty? Try the milkshake four-course dining with wine pairings.
tacular views, Pisco-based
Oct. 25; and at Google head- Palo Alto — a sister joint to bar, or choose something $89-$109. 5050 Arroyo Road, Liver-
cocktails and such ﬂavorful
quarters in Mountain View fare as Cebiche Mixto ($14), a complement his Redwood City naughtier from the extensive more; 925-456-2405; www.wentevine-
at 1 p.m. Oct. 29. Peck calls it seviche of halibut and shrimp, taqueria. Good news! Sancho’s wine and beer menus. Open yards.com.
“A newfangled Old-Fashioned and a duck breast sauteed with Palo Alto began dishing up its daily, lunch and dinner. Macy’s n San Francisco Gluten-Free Cooking
with a chaser of history.” garlic, cilantro, ginger and famous ﬁsh tacos ($3.95) — bat- Union Square, Sixth Floor, Spree — 6:30 to 9 p.m. Oct. 30. Featur-
Details at prohibitionhangover. orange ($16). Open Tuesday- tered or grilled, with chipotle San Francisco; 415-296-4272; ing 10 top Bay Area chefs, paired with
com. Sunday, 5 p.m. to midnight. rémoulade — and carne asada burgerbarsf.com. area doctors in a gluten-free challenge.
n Ode to Joe: Author Wona ($10.95) two weeks ago. Open $50/advance; $75/door; $35 for
La Costanera, 8150 Cabrillo
Miniati discusses and signs her 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday-Sat- Send your Bay Area restaurant students. Treasure Island Bldg. 1, San
Highwy.; 650-728-1600; Francisco; CeliacCentral.org.
new book, “The Trader Joe’s lacostanerarestaurant.com. urday, till 8 p.m. Sunday. 491 tips to food editor Jackie Burrell,
Companion: A Portable n Taqueria Nouveau: Lytton Ave. at Cowper, Palo jburrell@bayareanewsgroup.
Cookbook” at 2 p.m. Nov. 15 Rumors were swirling that chef Alto; 650-322-TACO; sancho com, and South Bay details More online at www.mercury
at Kepler’s Books, Menlo Park; Adam Torres of Boulevard and staqueria.com. to Linda Zavoral, lzavoral@ news.com/food-wine or www.
keplers.com. n Burger Bash: And up in mercurynews.com. InsideBayArea.com/food-wine.
Village Pub fame was going
Reds FOUR FALL REDS
n 2008 SANTA JULIA
Provencal-Inspired Leg of Lamb
Serves 6 or more
Harvest Pork Chops
From Page 1 ORGANICA MALBEC: A Serve with 2007 Domaine La Milliere Cotes Du Rhone and Red Onions Serves 3-4
2008 Santa Julia Organ- medium-bodied, intense
ica Malbec from Argentina malbec from Argentina with Serves 2 Serve with a Benaza Mancia
1 boneless leg of lamb 1 tablespoon mustard
($10.99), has been a major aromas and flavors of black 6 sprigs fresh rosemary 1 tablespoon ground Serve with a 2008 Efeste Monterrei 2008 from Spain.
hit with the store’s wine club currant and spice. $10.99, 4 sprigs fresh thyme toasted fennel seed Evergreen Vineyard Riesling. 2 pound boneless pork
members. Pleasant Hill Wine Mer- 6 cloves garlic 2 tablespoons olive oil
Bankerd pairs the wine chants, Pleasant Hill. 2-3 pork chops picnic shoulder
1 tablespoon anchovy paste Kosher salt, pepper 1 teaspoon salt
with a Cinnamon- n 2007 LINE SHACK 1 tablespoon olive oil
Spice Glazed Meat- 1. Coarsely chop herbs and garlic. Mix with anchovy, mustard, 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1½ teaspoons olive oil
SYRAH SAN ANTONIO
loaf, which calls for fennel and oil. ½ teaspoon black pepper 1 carrots, cut into 2-inch
VALLEY: Full-bodied and
savory herbs such as 2. Untie the lamb, season with salt and pepper and spread half ¾ cup Riesling pieces
tannic with flavors and
oregano, sage, and aromas of black cherries, the marinade on the inside. Retie the lamb, season outside with 1 tablespoon butter 1 celery rib, cut the same
tarragon. But the in- plums and chocolate. salt and pepper, and spread with the remaining marinade. Cover 2 tablespoons brown sugar ½ onion, cut the same
gredient that makes $15.99, The Wine Steward, and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours. 2-3 tablespoons vegetable 1 bay leaf
magic with the mal- Pleasanton. 3. An hour before roasting, remove lamb from refrigerator. Pre- oil ¼ teaspoon each black pep-
bec is apple sauce, heat oven to 375. Cook lamb on roasting rack for 15 to 25 minutes 1 unpeeled Fuji apple, cored percorns, juniper berries,
n 2007 DOMAINE LA
which Bankerd per pound, until internal temperature reaches 130 F. Remove and mustard seeds, coriander
MILLIERE COTES DU and sliced thickly
pours on top of RHONE: A fruit-for- let rest for at least 30 minutes, uncovered. Slice and serve with seeds
the meatloaf be- 1 medium red onion, sliced
ward, grenache- white beans, roast potatoes and/or root vegetables 6-8 caraway seeds Pinch cumin and parsley
fore baking. based wine with — John Gillis, North Berkeley Wine Imports Dash nutmeg seeds, optional
“The malbec aromas and fla- 2-3 boiling potatoes, quar-
pairs perfectly vors of black fruit, 1. Rub chops with olive oil, tered
with the sweet- spice and earth. California Comfort salt and pepper. Set aside. 1½-2 cups water
ness of the apple-
sauce,” she says.
$14.36, North Cinnamon Glazed Meatloaf 2. In a small saucepan, 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Berkeley Imports, Serves 5-6 bring wine, butter, and Italian parsley, chopped
“I think it (the Berkeley. brown sugar to a boil, then
wine) has a lot Pair with a Santa Julia 2008 Argentina Organica Malbec. 1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
n2008 BENAZA lower heat and simmer until
of character, like 2. Pat pork dry and sprinkle
my meatloaf.” MENCIA MON- ½ pound ground beef ¼ cup celery, diced syrupy.
all over with salt. In a large,
If you’re look- TERREI: Light to ½ pound ground pork 1 teaspoon dried oregano 3. Heat vegetable oil in
heavy, ovenproof pot, heat
ing for character, medium in body ¾ cup dried Italian-style 1 teaspoon garlic powder a large cast iron skillet on
with lively blue olive oil over moderately high
Jim Denham of breadcrumbs ¼ teaspoon each tarragon, medium high. Add apple and
fruit, spice and heat until hot. Brown pork on
The Wine Stew- 1 egg sage onion and cook until apples
only 12 percent all sides, about 10 minutes.
ard in Pleasanton ¼ cup each yellow, orange Salt and pepper to taste are soft and onions are trans-
alcohol. $12.99, and red sweet bell pep-
⁄3 cup applesauce Transfer to a plate.
suggests the 2007 lucent. Remove to bowl.
K&L Wine pers, minced 1 teaspoon cinnamon 3. Add carrots, celery and
Line Shack Syrah 4. Bring skillet back
Merchants, ¼ cup red onion, minced 2-3 slices applewood bacon to medium high and sear onion to pot and cook, stirring
San Antonio Val-
Redwood City. occasionally, until browned.
ley ($15.99), “a cool chops on both sides. Reduce
new wine” that hails Return pork to pot, along with
1. Preheat oven to 425. Mix together the ground meats, heat to medium and cook
from the San Anto- bay leaves, spices, potatoes
breadcrumbs, egg, vegetables and all the seasonings, except the through, about 9 minutes.
nio Valley, a fairly — he cooked and water (use a mixture of
cinnamon. Pat the meat mixture into a loaf pan. Remove chops to a plate and
new grape-grow- Mediterranean water and white wine, if you
comfort food at 2. Mix applesauce and cinnamon, and spread over top of tent with foil.
ing area in southern wish), and bring to a simmer.
Calistoga’s Cin Cin meatloaf. Top with bacon strips. Bake until no pink remains, 30- 5. Return the apple
Monterey County, just Cover pot, transfer to oven
— Gillis has always favored 40 minutes. (Note: Leftovers make great sandwiches.) mixture to the skillet with
west of King City and north and braise, turning pork once,
of Paso Robles. the food-friendly wines of the — Victoria Bankerd, Pleasant Hill Wine Merchants the meat drippings. Cook for about 2 hours or until
southern Rhone, he says. His on medium high, stirring
“It’s got the gift of lime- center is tender but not fall-
stone that we’re used to see- favorite fall red wine, the gre- occasionally until browned.
wild thyme often found in the Stir in caraway seeds. To ing apart.
ing in some of those areas,” nache-based 2007 Domaine “The malbec pairs Mediterranean basin. 4. Transfer pork to a cut-
says Denham, who pairs the La Milliere Cotes Du Rhone serve, place a puddle of syrup
wine with braised balsamic is a perfect example, with its perfectly with If you like earthy wines, on a plate and sprinkle with ting board and keep warm.
Joe Manekin of K&L Wine nutmeg. Arrange pork chops Pour braising liquid through
lamb chops. “But because earthy notes and acidity. the sweetness of Merchants in Redwood City atop the sauce and top with a sieve into a bowl, discard-
the San Antonio Valley lies “It’s got lots of fruit and
between the coastal moun- pepper, it’s delicious young, the applesauce. suggests mencia, a red grape the apple-onion mixture. ing solids. Skim fat and keep
and it ages quite well,” he native to the Bierzo region liquid warm.
tain chain, it doesn’t have the
says. “The southern Rhones
I think it (the of northwestern Spain. Once
— Jim Denham, 5. Cut meat across the grain
usual cooling sea inﬂuences The Wine Steward
of the appellation.” are easy to like, well-priced wine) has a lot of thought to be a cousin of cab- into thick slices. Heat vegetable
oil in a 12-inch heavy nonstick
The result of the warmer and are really some of the best ernet franc, mencia grapes
climate is a juicy, medium- wine values in the world.” character, like my produce wines that are to the west and cooler. As a skillet. Sear pork slices, turning
bodied wine that is full of While the wine retails for meatloaf.” spicy, medium in body, and
pair very well with food. As
result, it churns out mencia once, about 3 minutes per
batch. Transfer to plates, spoon
blueberry ﬂavors, he says, $17.99, Gillis says the shop that is lighter, brighter, and
with plenty of complexity and will honor the by-the-case — Victoria Bankerd a result, they’re a favorite in lower in alcohol (this one’s some braising liquid over pork,
personality. price of $14.36 a bottle (a 20 the bistros and wine bars of 12.5 percent). To highlight garnish with chopped parsley,
(When Denham’s in the percent discount) if you want Spain. the fruit, Manekin serves and serve.
mood for a fall white, he ac- to try it. in the oven is just a great fall “You’re going to start see- the wine slightly chilled (half — Joe Manekin, K&L Wine
companies his favorite pork Gillis serves the Domaine thing,” Gillis says. “South- ing more mencia (here) be- an hour in the fridge should Merchants, adapted from an
chop dish with a 2008 Efeste La Milliere with a Proven- ern Rhones go well with this cause it’s very different from do), with a crisp braised Epicurious.com recipe
Evergreen Vineyard Ries- çal-style roasted leg of lamb preparation because the a lot of Spanish wines out pork shoulder, browned on
ling.) that he rubs inside and out herbs, particularly the fennel there right now,” Manekin all sides then simmered in
John Gillis, a buyer with with toasted and ground fen- seeds, really highlight the gar- says. juniper berries and seeds of and acidity in the wine cuts
North Berkeley Wine Im- nel seeds, garlic, rosemary, rigue in the wine.” Garrigue His pick, the unoaked cumin, coriander and mus- through the rich, fatty, slow-
ports, also looks to a Rhone thyme, anchovy paste, mus- is the term for the aromatic, 2008 Benaza Mencia Mon- tard. Manekin calls it a con- braised meat,” he says. “The
varietal for his fall pick. A self- tard and olive oil. lime-tolerant shrubs such as terrei ($12.99), hails from trast pairing. entire ﬂavor proﬁle is very
described recovering chef “The smell of leg of lamb lavender, sage, rosemary and Monterrei, which is farther “The freshness of the fruit fall.”