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					WWDSTYLE wednesday, january 12, 2011   2



                                           fast
                                           Who’s the Coolest?
                                           Experts rate denim stores and trends.                      By Natasha MoNtrosE aNd Katya ForEMaN
                                                                                                                                                                                         Gotta Get It!
                                                                                                                                                                                         JAPAN
                                                                                                                                                                                         Furry legwarmers are all the rage
                                                                                                                                                                                         among Tokyo’s fashion-forward
                                                                                                                                                                                         set. Two types are available:
                                                                                                                                                                                         ones that are worn over boots
                                           PARIS — Denim gurus reveal what                                                              Serena Rimacci, creative director of Get Lost:   (also called boot covers), and
                                           they consider to be emerging styles,          14 oz. in                                      Favorite denim stores: “I don’t have a           those that give shoes or shorter
                                           the coolest denim retailers around the        Berlin.                                        favorite denim store. My favorite                boots the illusion of having furry
                                           globe and their latest fashion splurge.                                                      denim brands are Japanese because                tops (called “boo deco,” short for
                                                                                                                                        they have a long tradition focused on            “boots decoration”).
                                           Adriano Goldschmied, head of product                                                         quality and utility. They have good                  Popular fashion brand Sly
                                           development for Citizens of Humanity and                                                     knowledge of strong treatments,                  sells a fake fur boot cover for
                                           GoldSign, and designer for GoldSign and                                                      patchwork and handmade stitch-ups.”              4,725 yen (about $56), and
                                           Citizens of Humanity’s men’s line:                                                           Last purchase: “Usually I get clothes            sister brand Sly Lang carries
                                           Favorite denim stores: “Denham in                                                            when I travel around the world, in               shaggy boo deco for 1,995 yen
                                           Amsterdam. I love the interior                                                               vintage shops. It could be T-shirts,             (about $24). Both brands have
                                           decoration, which is fresh, modern                                                           could be denim, could be dresses,                stores in the trendy shopping
                                           and innovative. The product is not                                                           could be accessories. They should give           mall Shibuya 109, which targets
                                           just [about] boring vintage replicas                                                         me feelings.”                                    women in their teens and 20s.
                                           but is inspired from the past                                                                Key trends for this spring and beyond:                      — Kelly Wetherille
                                           and designed for the future — so                                                             “Handmade brushstrokes, handmade
                                           directional and such a strong identity.                                                      localized breaks, handmade                       BrAZil
                                               Also 14 oz. in Berlin — totally                                                          sandblasting, [raised stitching],                Rio de Janeiro’s Lanno brand is
                                           different. It’s a multibrand store with                                                      reactive colors, dirty washes, reverse           launching its newest collection
                                           a perfect merchandising [concept].                                                           spray coloring, handmade stitch-ups.             of cotton necklaces this month.
                                           They think about what the denim                                                              These are just some treatments that              The necklaces retail for $95 and
                                           customer wants next to a great denim                                                         we used for next spring and summer.”             are made with dozens of thick,
                                                           ou
                                           assortment. Y feel at home, and the                                                                                                           multicolored, cotton strands
                                           service is amazing, smart, something                                                         Amy Leverton, denim editor for Stylesight:       that intertwine to create heart-
                                           you never will find online.”                                                                 Favorite denim stores: “Kapital in Tokyo         shaped centers.
                                           Last purchase: “I purchased a                                                                — it’s a dream in there. The denim is                                — MiKe KePP
                                           lightweight chambray shirt in a                                                              top notch, but it’s the whole styling,
                                           classic men’s fit — simple but hard                                                                                                           FrANCe
                                           to find. I wear it all the time.”                                                                                                             Named after the strong, cold
                                           Key trends for this spring and beyond:        The Denham concept                                                                              winds that blow in the south
                                           “Simple, sophisticated elegance.              store in Amsterdam.                                                                             of France, Lou Mistraou is the
                                           The first thing about this is the                                                                                                             Provençal name for France’s
                                           quality and the fabrics and new fits.                                                                                                         famous “mistral” and the label
                                           I see that denim is going away from                                                                                                           for an unusual hat collection.
                                           the traditional cotton and casual                                                                                                                  This protective Cabriolet style,
                                           look into a more luxurious and                                                                                                                retailing around $250, is inspired
                                           sophisticated direction.                                                                                                                      by the kind of
                                              The new denim concept is about                                                                                                             leather helmet worn
                                           different content, in particular                                                                                                              by women driving
                                           Cupro. Nothing works better then                                                                                                              automobiles in the
                                           Cupro for interpreting…elegance                                                                                                               early 20th century to
                                           and works [as well] for the new                                                                                                               protect themselves
                                           draped, wide fits. For the first time,                                                                                                        at full speed. Now,
                                           denim is getting married with high                                                                                                            they’re made of
                                           fashion, and it will be true love.”                                                                                                           summery silks and
                                                                                                                                                                                         woven palm fiber with
                                           Orjan Andersson, creative director                                                                                                            contrasting piping.
                                           of Swedish brand Cheap Monday:                                                                                                                It’s still protective, yet
                                           Favorite denim stores: “Weekday, because                                                                                                      deliciously retro.
                                           they are doing such great work                                                                                                                            — lAureNt
                                           with Cheap Monday. I like Weekday             Weekday in                                                                                                     FolCher
                                           because of the good balance between           Sweden.                                        visual merchandising and artistic
                                           fashion, streetwear and denim.”                                                              direction of their collections. And they         itAly
                                           Last purchase: “A pair of tight-fitting                                                      have been rocking that whole Navajo-             Italian tattoo
                                           black Cheap Monday jeans.”                                                                   Pendleton thing for about five years,            artist and
                                           Key trends for this spring and beyond:                                                       so ahead of the game.”                           bijoux designer
                                           “Washed-out light blue denim, high                                                           Last purchase: “From Kapital: a                  Amanda Toy has
                                           waists, white jeans, gray denim                                                              fantastic green cast selvage jean. Just          teamed up with
                                           washes and Seventies wide legs.”                                                             the cutest fit, slightly cropped in the          Timex 80, the
                                                                                                                                        leg — they tailor them to whatever               Italian division of
                                           Jason Denham, founder of Denham                                                              length you want — and a slim                     America’s Timex, to
                                           the Jeanmaker:                                                                               boyfriend silhouette.”                           launch a collection of
                                           Favorite denim stores: “My favorite                                                          Key trends for this spring and beyond:           timepieces.
                                           denim stores are mostly in Japan.                                                             “Rock and metal patches on vests,                    The brand’s
                                           There are many specialists in vintage                                                         jackets and jeans. This is coming from          iconic Indiglo model,
                                           collector denim [whose buyers] travel                                                         the rising popularity in heavy rock and         characterized by
                                           the world searching for antique                                                               metal bubbling up from London and               electroluminescence
                                           denim pieces. Stores like Sunrise,                                                            New York. Jeather: Basically, we’ve             technology that
                                           J’Antiques and Safari. The Japanese                                                           seen the jegging become superpopular            converts the electricity
                                           are real [collector] freaks….I love the                                                       and the must-have wardrobe item for             directly to light, will be
                                           energy in these stores.”                                                                      women. But new developments have                available in three pop
                                           Latest purchase: “A WWII 1940s XX Big                                                         been exploring stretch-proof technical          patterns, featuring
                                           E work pant. Also some French 1950s                                                           coatings such as leather looks.                 multicolor skulls,
                                           men’s and women’s workwear [pieces].”                                     That whole military trend is going to move into spring              pierced hearts, dolls
                                           Key trends for this spring and beyond: “Denim is going through a big   and fall. Also, urban utility — taking the trends for military         and dice on fire. The
                                           transition, where trends have been switched. Two years ago,            and traditional workwear clothing and using these details              watches will retail
                                           women’s denim followed men’s silhouettes [and finishes], like          in a modern way. So: clean and functional pockets;                     at $55, on Timex’s
                                           ‘boyfriend’ cuts and distressed jeans. Today it’s the opposite —       durable workwear fabrics such as canvas; twisted yarns                 online store starting
                                           men are dressing like women, with very tight jeans and clean-          and herringbone weaves, and key denim items such as the                in February.
                                           looking silhouettes. Also, the technical advance in denim is           worker vest, the utility-all and dungaree — and the modern                   — AleSSANDrA
                                           being led by women’s denim fabrics, such as Cupro yarns and            cargo short. Finally, I can’t not mention the Seventies. It’s a                          turrA
                                           incredible soft-touch, high-performance denims.”                       look that has been coming and going for a few seasons.”
WWDSTYLE WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 12, 2011   4



                                           fast                [fashion]
                                                                                                                                                                                 Diesel’s cotton,
                                                                                                                                                                                  polyester and
                                                                                                                                                                                 spandex jacket.




                                             Calvin Klein
                                            Jeans’ cotton
                                              denim and
                                           polyester vest.                                                                        K-Swiss’
                                                                                                                                  leather
                                                                                                                                 sneakers.




                                                                                                               G-Star Raw’s cotton
                                                                                                                and lyocell shirt.



                                                                                                                                                            Just a Cheap
                                                                                                                                                         Shirt’s cotton shirt.




                                            Head of the
                                                                                                                                                                           The Frye Co.’s
                                                                                                                                                                           leather boot.




                                                                                Classics
                                                                                     Designers will be cozying up to good old favorites like
                                                                                        these at next week’s Bread & Butter fair in Berlin.
                                                                                                                                         BY KIM FRIDAY

                                           Goorin Bros.’                                  Guess’ cotton and
                                            wool hat.                                   spandex denim jeans.
                                                                                                                                                                                                    PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA




                                                              Spiewak & Sons’ wool
                                                               and polyester coat.



                                             For more, see WWD.com/fashion-news.
WWDSTYLE wedneSdAY, JAnuArY 12, 2011   6



                                           fast
                                           Sell-a-graphic




                                                                                                                                  photo by Joanna Ramey
                                           Two retailers use bold colors and visuals
                                           as part of their strategies.

                                                                                                    brands’ entire visuals for                                                                           Marine Layer
                                           Dude’s
                                                                                                    its collection of T-shirts,
                                           Factory
                                                                                                    sweaters and hoodies.
                                                                                                        Dude’s Factory’s own-     marine layer, San Francisco                 we have generated traffic.”
                                                                                                    ers also invite the artists   Selling soft casual shirts of beech            Both 32 years old, Natenshon jet-
                                                                                                    to come up with extraor-      wood and cotton fiber that are pre-         tisoned an investment banking career
                                                                                                    dinary product ideas, like    washed four times and guaranteed            and Lynch gave up work in public
                                                                                                    oversize wooden chil-         to fit is how retailer Marine Layer is      policy for Marine Layer, which has as
                                                                                                    dren’s cars or mutated ea-    looking to make a mark on the basics        its logo a hammock strung between
                                                                                                    gle-shaped skateboards,       fashion business.                           Golden Gate Bridge towers. With lim-
                                                                                                    two examples from the            It’s been a year and a half since        ited edition styles for men and women,
                                                                                                    first cooperations with       Michael Natenshon began the upstart         $35 T-shirts, $65 polos and $70 hoodies
                                                                                                    Peachbeach and 110            vertical retailer in his living room with   comprise the core merchandise that is
                                                                                                    Special Black. They also      $44,000 charged to credit cards and an      sewn and washed in the Bay Area from
                                                                                                    want their customers to       e-commerce Web site. In September,          fabric woven in Los Angeles of cotton
                                                                                                    be creative. A special on-    a 500-square-foot store was added on        and beach wood fiber that was pro-
                                                                                                    line tool lets anyone de-     Chestnut Street in the well-heeled          duced by Austria’s Lenzing AG.
                                                                                                    sign and purchase their       Marina District and home to the                Last month, Marine Layer turned a
                                                                                                    own T-shirt on Dude’s         Golden Gate Yacht Club that will host       profit. Other measures of success have
                                           DuDe’S Factory, Berlin                    Factory’s Web site. While external in-       the 2013 America’s Cup regatta.             been repeat shoppers online who have
                                           Even fast fashion, or in this case fast   fluences are a substantial part of the          While rents on Chestnut Street are       been in the San Francisco shop.
                                           design, takes time. Before Arnaud Loix    brand, everything comes back together        at a premium, the neighborhood’s               “Since opening the store in
                                           van Hooff and Heribert Willmerdinger      in Dude’s Factory’s in-house factory, lo-    popularity has been worth the $9-a-         September, we have increased our
                                           were ready to launch their brand and      cated in the shop’s basement.                square-foot rent.                           customer database by 250 percent,”
                                           shop of the same name, Dude’s Factory,                    — JennifeR Wiebking             “As a new brand, we are not a des-       Natenshon said.       — Joanna Ramey
                                           they needed two years to work out                                                      tination shop yet,” said Natenshon,
                                           the right concept — only to have it       138 Torstrasse                               who’s been joined in the business           2209 Chestnut Street
                                           change monthly. But that’s what Dude’s    10119 Berlin                                 by longtime friend Adam Lynch. “So          San Francisco 94123
                                           Factory is all about: Each month, the     Tel.: +49-30-3087-4361                       we chose to spend more on rent and          Tel.: 415-407-4043
                                           brand asks a different artist or artis-   Monday-Friday, Noon-8 p.m.,                  nothing on additional marketing. Our        Monday, 8 a.m.-5 p.m.;
                                           tic team to redesign the streetwear       Saturday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m.                     storefront and word of mouth is how         Tuesday-Friday, 8 a.m.-6 p.m.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      7




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          WWDSTYLE wedneSdAY, JAnuArY 12, 2011
                                                                                              — an argument supported
Fashion: an EndangErEd spEciEs?                                                               unintentionally        right                       Intriguing pre-fall collections include
                                                                                                                                                  Nicolas Ghesquière’s eclecticism for
                                                                                              here. This has been a
         {Continued from page 1}               craves distinctive fashion. Just look at       quite gorgeous pre-fall                               Balenciaga (left) and Alber Elbaz’s
again prove willing to do what it takes        the relatively recent increase of interest     season. Yet in Tuesday’s                                           luxe lineup for Lanvin.
to land their stars, whether or not a          in collections such as Dries Van Noten         print edition of WWD,
specific dress genuinely reflects the          and Rick Owens, once considered on the         coverage of eight mostly
brand. True, even the most gorgeous            edge. Yet luxury houses are grappling          major collections was
celebrities are real women who want            with issues that impact creativity that        crammed into three
to look beautiful for big nights out.          have nothing to do with the high-low           pages, including a
It is not their responsibility to push         bandwagon. Given immediate access              visually busy page one,
experimental fashion on the global             to fashion show visuals, the impatient         while Rachel Zoe’s fun,
television audience. But if the threat         public no longer wants to wait months          contemporary launch
of yuk-it-up, mean-spirited criticism          to procure designer merch. Thus,               merited a nice, airy
loomed a little less large, some of them       some houses are experimenting with             photo on the cover
might opt for frocks a little less boring.     how to satiate the beast and increase          of WWD Style and a
   Another element to fashion’s                speed-to-market. But at what price?            roomy spread inside.
increasingly democratic persuasion is          For spring, in his quest for clothes that      And not without
the ever-swelling obsession with high-         could be produced and delivered on a           reason: It’s a given
low. Some designers render accessible          truncated schedule, Burberry Prorsum’s         that Web site tallies
fashion beautifully. Marc by Marc Jacobs       Christopher Bailey appeared to have            of “most e-mailed”
may be the smartest secondary brand ever       watered down his typically intricate,          and “most viewed”
launched, given its great clothes and a        inventive looks.                               will support that
cool factor that can be had — in the form         Such experimentation in timing is           allocation.
of all kinds of trinketry starting at five     inevitable, as luxury houses determine            Zoe is indeed
bucks and under. Recently, the blockbuster     how best to utilize the Web in doing           interesting (and smart,
collaboration of Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz with     business. One hopes that, in the end,          to boot). So, too, brand
H&M had ample shades of, well, Lanvin.         designers will refuse to make creativity       ambassadors, party girls,
So much so that in a December cover line,      a secondary consideration to speed. If a       teen bloggers, reality
Vogue heralded, “The Perfect Party Dress       piece of Fashion incites breathlessness,       stars, “Project Runway”
(for under $250!).”                            shouldn’t it be worth the wait?                graduates and runway
   Fabulous for the girl who wants an             It should fall to the fashion press,        clothes designed with haste
inexpensive pretty party dress that            both consumer and trade, to fully              rather than haute in mind.
looks like a much more expensive pretty        report on and dissect high-end fashion,           But to lovers of pure
party dress, and hats off to Elbaz and         both experimental and otherwise. But           Fashion, other matters, too,
others for delivering genuine chic on          too often, even the toniest fashion is         deserve consideration. On
the cheap. Certainly each case taken           presented in either a clinical manner          pre-fall alone, why did the
on its own feels like a meaningful             or one in which is mere foil for its           usually     single-focused
stylistic victory for the nonrich. Yet,        celebrity subject.                             Nicolas Ghesquière do




                                                                                                                                                                                        Lanvin photo by John aquino; baLenciaga by Dominique maitre
at the risk of sounding like a founder            Though lip ser vice is given                so eclectic a collection?
of the Marie Antoinette Got a Raw              to the importance of the great                 Do the gorgeously high-
Deal Fan Club, what is the aggregate           designers, in reality, serious focus           glam lineups of Vuitton
good for (uppercase) Fashion? In the           on their work, their craft, has been           and Lanvin presage
zeal to court and clad the proletariat,        diminishing for years.                         dressed-up days for fall? Do
is it becoming no longer PC, or even              This is not to suggest that the             Phoebe Philo’s patchwork pants for
of interest, to celebrate the levels of        millions of people who shop at all             Celine indicate a move away from her
research, of design, of intricacy, of          price points south of designer don’t           signature minimalism? Looking ahead
detail, of materials (all fabrics are not      want and deserve excellent design;             two weeks, what wonders might the
created equal) that go into high-end           that designers in those markets are not        couturier set have in store?
fashion? Last time we checked, Fashion         often extremely talented; that design             More importantly, like the
was not a social services agency, but          innovation only happens at the high            proverbial tree falling in the forest, if
a for-profit multibillion-dollar global        end, or that acknowledging or enjoying         Karl Lagerfeld or John Galliano were
industry that preys on insecurities            celebrity fashion escapades is a black         to show a seminal couture collection —
about physical appearance. Elitism is          mark on one’s sartorial soul.                  but most people were too wrapped up
an essential part of the shtick.                  But in the fray, appreciation for           in the front-row celebrities to care —
   The devoted high-end customer               pure, elitist Fashion is getting lost          would it make a sound that lingers?




Katie Holmes’ Next Act: Ann Taylor Ads                                                                         Fashion scoops
               BY DAVID LIPKE                         spent $11.1 million on advertising in the first nine     A GROUP OF FRIENDS: When Opening Ceremony’s spring
                                                      months of 2010, up from $5.3 million in the same         look book hits desks the editorial world over, its recipients will
Katie Holmes has been tapped as the new face          2009 period, according to Kantar Media data.             recognize the trademark style of Terry Richardson, who shot
of Ann Taylor, succeeding Heidi Klum, in the             When it comes to posing for fashion brands,           Lindsey Wixson and Paolo Anchisi against a white backdrop,
280-store chain’s spring advertising campaign.        Holmes — who is married to Tom Cruise and                per usual, in November at Milk Studios. If it seems like a big deal
Developed in-house by the Ann Taylor creative         mother to their daughter, Suri — apparently has          — a very famous photographer plus two extremely of-the-moment
team and photographed by Tom Munro, the cam-          a soft spot for affordable careerwear and casu-          models — for a look-book shoot, all parties involved claim it was
paign breaks in March magazines.                      alwear. The actress modeled in the J. Crew cata-         just one big friend fest. “I’ve been friends with Opening Ceremony
   “I applaud women who are doing their best to       logue this past fall, along with co-stars from her       for years, and we’ve always wanted to work together,” said
be the best versions of themselves and who are        most recent flick, “The Romantics,” including            Richardson. “The idea was really simple — it was about having fun
working really hard. And I’m glad that there is a     Josh Duhamel, Malin Akerman and Adam Brody.              with the clothes, and Lindsey Wixson was the perfect fit.” Opening
store like Ann Taylor that can offer amazing styles      Previous Ann Taylor campaigns featured actresses      Ceremony’s Humberto Leon seconds that notion: “We’ve been
for the many different roles that women play,”        including Milla Jovovich and Naomi Watts.                friends with Terry for years,” he said, noting he likes to amp up
Holmes, 32, told WWD exclusively.                                                                              the look book in lieu of a runway show. “All the right pieces came
   The media buy includes fash-                                                                                together and we were shooting the right people and we wanted
ion magazines such as Vogue,                                                                                   to have fun.” In the past, Opening Ceremony has enlisted Ryan
Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, Marie                                                                                   McGinley (friend) to shoot look books, and this time another
Claire and InStyle. Outdoor ads                                                                                “friend” Mel Ottenberg styled the shoot. One could wonder if all
will go up in major metropolitan                                                                               these friends get paid in hugs, but Leon assures otherwise.
areas. Holmes is contracted to Ann
Taylor for one season.                                                                                         FASHION CENTRAL: Milan’s chamber of commerce is donating its
   “Katie personifies the Ann                                                                                  headquarters in the city center to serve as a “Fashion Hub” to Italy’s
Taylor brand — smart, talent-                                                                                  fashion chamber, Camera della Moda, for use by journalists, buyers,
ed, incredibly chic and living a                                                                               photographers and bloggers during the upcoming men’s fashion
full life with beauty and grace.                                                                               week, which kicks off Saturday morning. The building, called Palazzo
We admire and respect Katie                                                                                    dei Giureconsulti, was also used for similar purposes in September
for her intellect, kindness and                                                                                for the women’s shows, but for a fee. This donation, in addition to
enduring personal style,” said                                                                                 the about 500,000 euros, or $645,000 at current exchange, that the
Christine Beauchamp, president                                                                                 chamber of commerce contributes to Camera Moda and initiatives
of AnnTaylor Stores Corp.                                                                                      for young designers each year, represents its growing support of
   Ann Taylor declined to pro-                                                                                 an industry that makes up about 13 percent of the country’s total
vide ad spend figures for the                                                                                  revenues, according to data released by the chamber. The Fashion
spring campaign. Parent company                                                                                Hub is located at 2 Piazza dei Mercanti and will be open from 9 a.m.
AnnTaylor Stores Corp., which                                                                                  to 7 p.m. from Saturday to Monday and until 6 p.m. on Tuesday.
includes Ann Taylor and Loft,                Holmes will appear in the campaign for one season.
WWDSTYLE WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 12, 2011   8



                                           media
                                                                                                                                                                                  The redesigned
                                                                                                                                                                                    Marie Claire.




                                           The Men Steering Hearst
                                                  BY JOHN KOBLIN AND AMY WICKS                                                                                      The company has also
                                                                                                         David
                                                                                                         Carey                                                  embraced the world of reality TV in
                                           NEW YORK — It was a few minutes before 10 p.m.                                                                       a way no other publisher has, with shows such
                                           on Monday night and Hearst Magazines top execu-                                                                      as Marie Claire’s “Running in Heels” on the Style
                                           tive David Carey had something to say about his                                                                      Network; “The Fashion Show,” which partners with
                                           company, a comment his rivals would try to deny but                                                                  Harper’s Bazaar on Bravo, and now it is close to snar-
                                           probably fear is true.                                                                                               ing Elle, the magazine that essentially kicked off the
                                               “The current environment favors the Hearst way                                                                   genre with “Project Runway” (after a long legal battle,
                                           of doing things,” he said.                                                                                           Hearst’s Marie Claire now works with the show).
                                               While other magazine publishers in town are                                                                          Elle and creative director Joe Zee had a de-
                                           preaching to their colleagues the importance of practi-                                                              cent run more recently on MTV with “The City,”
                                           cal management and sensible spending, Hearst wrote                                                                   a spin-off of “The Hills.” And now Zee is getting a
                                           the book on such an approach years ago. By the time                                                                  show of his own, “All on the Line,” on the Sundance
                                           Hearst finishes acquiring Hachette from Lagardère,                                                                    Channel, which will make its debut in the spring.
                                           the company will have spent more than $1 billion in                                                                  The show has been advertised as having Zee show
                                           a little under a year while the rest of the magazine in-                                                             a little tough love to struggling designers who need
                                           dustry is still recovering from the Great Recession.                                                                 help salvaging their businesses.
                                               Hearst has long been derided as playing second                                                                       “The world isn’t that siloed anymore,” a former
                                           fiddle to the Condé Nasts of the world for being the                                                                  executive at Condé Nast and Hearst said. “Will
                                           home of dull brands, slim staffs and a no-frills at-                                                                 Oprah or Food Network ever be highbrow? No. But
                                           titude — in other words, hardly the dream of any                                                                     those are viable businesses.”
                                           youngster aspiring to get into the glamorous, free-                                                                      “A few years ago, when everyone made fun of us,
                                           spending world of glossy magazines. Now its long-                                                                    and Condé was the big thing, there was a sense of
                                           standing corporate ethos is looking more and more                                                                    why not me?” said a Hearst staffer. “Now there is a
                                           enviable in a topsy-turvy world.                                                                                     sense of optimism and that things will change.”
                                               The magazine division’s culture was set by Frank                                                                     Hearst has had layoffs over the last few years, but
                                           Bennack, the plump, mild-mannered Fezziwig-like ceo                                                                  they were not nearly as public or gut-wrenching as
                                           at parent Hearst Corp. who returned to that position                                                                 those at places like Time Inc., Condé Nast or else-
                                           in 2008 after ostensibly retiring from a 23-year run in                                                              where. In fact, the overwhelming sentiment at Hearst
                                           the role. Bennack hired current New Y    ork City schools                                                            is how, despite some cuts, life feels relatively the same.
                                           chief Cathie Black to run the magazine division in                                                                       “I give Cathie credit for leading us through re-
                                           1995, and in June, poached Carey from Condé Nast to                                                                  ally tough times of recession,” said Ann Shoket, the
                                           replace Black as president of the magazine division.                                                                 editor in chief of Seventeen. “Those were crucial
                                               It was the 77-year-old Bennack’s tight-fisted man-                                                                decisions that Cathie made to get us through tough
                                           agement style that allowed the company to with-                                                                      times. Heads down. Tight budgets and staffs.…Was
                                           stand the brutality better than its rivals in the last                                                               very well done there, well managed.”
                                           two years (Condé Nast has shuttered six magazines;                                                                       Not that Condé Nast and Time Inc. are rolling
                                           Hearst hasn’t closed any). And now that there ap-                                                                    over. Both have new senior management and both
                                           pear to be some signs of life in the beleaguered pub-                                                                are stepping up their own investments in the Web
                                           lishing world, Bennack’s parsimony has positioned                                                                    world. While Time Inc. executives declined to com-
                                           Hearst to make a blockbuster deal. The company is                                                                    ment, a Condé Nast spokeswoman said, “Condé
                                           on the verge of spending $700 million to $800 mil-                                                                   Nast continues to be positioned for success, with the
                                           lion to pick up the Hachette International portfo-                                                                   highest quality editorial products in print and digi-
                                           lio from Lagardère that includes Elle, Elle Decor,                                                                   tal — representing unique value to both our consum-
                                           Woman’s Day and Car and Driver (Lagardère would                                                                      ers and advertisers.”
                                           keep the French titles). The deal will make Hearst                                                                       Still, the long downtrodden feeling that used to
                                           the second-largest magazine company in the U.S. in                                                                   permeate the hallways of Hearst as staffers would
                                           terms of circulation, audience and advertising, sur-                                                                 watch their competitors zoom around Manhattan
                                           passing Condé Nast. Adding those titles will boost                                                                   in Town Cars and order takeaway from Balthazar
                                           the company’s market share among major publish-                                                                      appears to be diminishing. Hearst employees who
                                           ers to 23 percent from 15 percent, which will be a                                                                   spoke to WWD gushed about the recent citrus fes-
                                           smidgen behind Time Inc.’s 24 percent and well                                                           Frank       tival in the cafeteria at the Hearst Tower (“I bought
                                           above Condé Nast’s 17 percent, according to data                                                       Bennack       two clementine oranges for 50 cents!” said one) and
                                           from the Publishers Information Bureau. They’ll                                                                      the recent video campaigns in the elevator that fea-
                                           get these titles after a year in which ad pages at                                                                   ture editors from Cosmopolitan and Redbook (“It’s
                                           Hearst’s monthlies grew by 9.5 percent, outpacing           with one open office. Whenever Norm Pearlstine,           so nice! It means the company likes us and is really
                                           every other publisher in town (although it’s not clear      [who was at Dow Jones] when he was still involved,       nice!” said yet another).
                                           how much Hearst titles discounted — and Hearst              would come, [editor] Steve Swartz, who had the of-           “People are definitely looking differently at Hearst
                                           still trails total number of ad pages at Condé Nast         fice, would have to leave so Norm could use it for        than they used to,” said one former Condé Nast and
                                           and Time Inc.). And for a company that has bread-           a while. This is the mode the company has always         Hearst executive. “I don’t think Hearst has felt the sea
                                           winning yet aggressively unsexy titles like Good            operated in. It operated that way when I was at the      change in corporate culture. It’s always run very ef-
                                           Housekeeping, it will now gain a magazine — Elle —          company in ’95 and it operated like that, from what I    ficiently and this is the Hearst that they’re used to. If
                                           that can compete with other rivals’ marquee brand           understand, in 2006 and 2007.”                           anything, I think there’s a great sense of energy be-
                                           names (another caveat: One source said, however,               At that time, Carey was founding publisher of         cause there’s new management there.”
                                           that Hearst’s challenge with Elle will be to bring its      the high-gloss, high-spending Condé Nast Portfolio,          “After David got here I definitely received more
                                           average ad page rate up to that of Harper’s Bazaar,         which shuttered two years after launch.                  résumés from people at Condé Nast and rival ti-
                                           which itself charges less than Vogue).                         In October 2008, Hearst set out its own project       tles,” said Joanna Coles, the editor in chief of Marie
                                               Nor is this the only deal Hearst has been making        to create Food Network Magazine, one other pub-          Claire. “I do think the building helps. Such a steeple
                                           lately. In its own quiet way, the publisher has been        lishing companies at the time held their nose to.        on the landscape of New York. And an expression of
                                           making small, Web-related acquisitions over the last        But for Hearst, it was a coup, and only a couple of      Hearst power.”
                                           few years. In June, Hearst bought iCrossing, a digi-        years after it launched, the title is the best-selling       Hearst…Power? It is a topsy-turvy media world
                                           tal marketing service agency, for $325 million, and         food magazine off the newsstand, the third best in       indeed.
                                           on Monday it revealed a $3 million investment into          selling ads, and its ad pages rose 78 percent in 2010.       Take the Elle deal: Observers might interpret it
                                           VillageVines.                                               At a time when magazine executives are saying the        as a vanity play by Hearst — a move, in the Rodney
                                               Further proof that while other companies are            words “revenue” and “bottom line” more often than        Dangerfield method, “to get some respect.” Not so,
                                           contracting or changing their philosophies on the           talking about the magic of glossy magazines, Food        Hearst executives insist. Sure, it will create better
                                           fly, Hearst is expanding.                                    Network Magazine is a property even its rivals           group-buy opportunities given the bundling of Elle,
                                               “We had to course-correct far less than anyone          would be proud to own.                                   Marie Claire and Harper’s Bazaar. But Hearst wants
                                           else,” said Carey, describing his new home. “We’ve             It’s also a model that Hearst, having proven          Elle for a much more important reason: the rights to
                                           built our company in a very sensible way in both            it successful, is ready to adopt again. WWD has          a portion of its 43 total international editions. That’s
                                           flush times and more challenged times. Take my ex-           learned the company will launch a magazine later         where the big revenues are. It’s a numbers game
                                           perience with Smart Money way back when.” He was            this year in a joint venture with Scripps for an         and, for Hearst — and, slowly, the rest of the indus-
                                           the founding publisher in 1992.                             HGTV Magazine. It will be run the same way as            try — that’s all that matters these days.
                                               “This was a product that had eight employees at         Food Network: soft launch, lots of testing, cautious         Carey sums it up: “For us, prestige is a business
                                           the very beginning and we shared one open bullpen           approach and, if it’s a hit, will be expanded.           with a healthy bottom line.”

				
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