Webelos Scout Forester Activity Badge
Do five of these:
1. Make a map of the United States. Show the types of forests growing in different parts
of the country. Name some kinds of trees that grow in these forests.
WEST COAST FOREST:
Location: Coast Range, Cascade Range, and North Sierra Nevadas.
Trees: Primarily Douglas-fir; some hemlock, alder, cedars; spruce very near coast.
Uses of wood: lumber, plywood, paper, cardboard, poles and pilings large timbers, shingles and
shakes, siding, particle board, laminated pre-shaped beams, arrow shafts, pencils.
ROCKY MOUNTAINS FOREST:
Location: Mountains of the inland West
Trees: Ponderosa pine, lodgepole pine, white pine, Douglas-fir, true firs, spruce, hemlock, larch,
aspen, juniper
Uses of wood: lumber, fence posts.
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NORTHERN FOREST:
Location: across northern US from Minnesota through northern ½ of Michigan to Upstate New York
and New England
Trees: Aspen, white pine, sugar maple, red maple, beech, ash, northern red oak, elms, basswood
(linden), black cherry, red pine, jack pine, black spruce, balsam fir
Uses of wood: paper and paper products, lumber, furniture, fuelwood, mulch.
CENTRAL HARDWOOD FOREST:
Location: Central uplands of the eastern US, from Piedmont to Missouri and mid-Michigan down to
northern part of deep South states, including Appalachian Mountains
Trees: Great variety: many species of oak and hickories; various yellow pines including Virginia,
shortleaf and loblolly; tulip poplar, red maple, sugar maple, blackgum, redcedar, sourwood, beech,
elms, sycamore, black cherry, hackberry, ash, persimmon, black walnut, buckeye, black locust, white
pine, hemlock.
Uses of wood: paper, paper products, pulp, furniture, lumber, flooring, tool handles, sports
equipment, pallets, railroad ties, chip board, oriented strand board, chemicals, dowels, cedar chests,
charcoal, interior paneling, crates, barrels, log homes, firewood, bark mulch.
SOUTHERN FOREST:
Location: Deep South, from East Texas to Georgia and up the eastern seaboard to Maryland.
Trees: Loblolly pine, slash pine, longleaf pine, variety of upland and bottomland oaks, hickories,
elms, sweetgum, blackgum, red maple, sycamore, tulip poplar, black cherry, tupelo, bald cypress,
ash, persimmon, sassafras
Uses of wood: lumber, paper and paper products, telephone poles, pilings, particle and fiber board,
chemicals.
2. Draw a picture to show the plant and tree layers of a forest in your area. Label the
different layers. (If you don't live in an area that has forests, choose an area that does
and draw a picture of that forest.) http://www.mightytrees.com/science/foreststrat.html
The top layer is the forest canopy. Under that may be smaller trees such as dogwood or maple
forming the understory. Beneath that is a shrub layer of bushes, vines and seedlings. Herb/Fern
Layer is next with low lying layer of vegetation. Finally, on the ground, is the litter layer, composed
of dead leaves and low-growing plants.
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Forest Stratification
Forest Stratification simply refers to the different layers of plants in a forest. In a mature forest, one
can typically see several distinct layers of vegetation rising from the forest floor to the tree canopy.
Young forests may not show clear separations between layers. It is only as forests age and trees
grow to create a tall canopy that layering becomes most visible.
Canopy Layer
Primary Vegetation: Mature Trees
The canopy, sometimes called the "overstory", is the highest vegetative layer in the forest. The
canopy is filled by leaves deployed from large mature trees. During the growing season, canopy
leaves intercept much of the sunlight available to a forest. Typically less than 50% of the total
amount of sunlight can pass through the canopy to plants in the forest layers below.
In a deciduous forest, the canopy is typically the last layer to show green in the spring. Since the
canopy trees receive sunlight throughout the growing season, they can wait longer to deploy their
leaves. This reduces the risk of the young tender leaves being destroyed by a late freeze.
Some trees grow especially tall. Sometimes these tall growing trees can actually grow through the
canopy. Giant trees that poke through the canopy are called "emergents." Emergents are able to
harness immense amounts of unfiltered sunlight above the canopy. However, the leafy crown of
emergent trees are openly exposed to fierce winds that howl above the canopy. Therefore,
emergents are susceptible to be being blown down during gusty storms.
Understory Layer
Primary Vegetation: Tree Saplings, Small Shade-Tolerant Trees (ex. dogwood, redbud, musclewood)
& Tall Shrubs
Just beneath the Canopy and above the Shrub layer lies the Understory. The Understory can be
thought of as a tree sapling staging ground. In a mature forest, many saplings can claim enough
nutrients and sunlight to reach the Understory. However, further growth is typically impractical as the
saplings can not steal enough additional nutrients from established canopy trees to grow any higher.
So many saplings slow their growth and wait in the Understory until a mature canopy tree dies. How
well a sapling can grow in full shade and how long a sapling can survive in the understory are two
principle measures of a tree's shade tolerance.
When a mature tree dies and opens a gap in the canopy, all of the saplings waiting in the
understory rush upward. The saplings quick growth is fueled by the sudden increase in sunlight and
nutrients no longer claimed by the deceased tree. The race to reach the canopy is very much a race
for survival. There is typically only room for one new tree in the canopy. The tree that reaches the
canopy continues to grow and expand, gradually reducing the flow of sunlight and nutrients to the
trees below. All saplings that committed to the growth race but failed to reach the canopy gradually
weaken and eventually die.
Shrub Layer
Primary Vegetation: Young Tree Saplings, Mature Shrubs and Bushes
Between the Understory and Litter Layers is the Shrub Layer. This low lying layer of vegetation is
typically between 3' and 7' from the ground surface. Mostly bushy shrubs occupy this position in the
forest. An abundance of food for animals such as deer and bears is found on shrub layer vegetation.
In fact, many of these shrubs depend on wildlife to distribute their seeds. The animals ingest the
plants' fleshy fruits and distribute the seeds in their feces.
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Herb/Fern Layer
Primary Vegetation: Tree Seedlings, Herbs, Ferns, Grasses and Weeds
The Herb/Fern layer ranges from the ground surface to about 3' and is considered the lowest
forest layer with leafy living vegetation. This layer is typically the first forest layer to turn green in the
spring. Plants on the forest floor have to deploy their leaves early in the growing season to capture
direct sunlight to kick-start their growth cycle. Once the understory and canopy trees have deployed
their leaves, very little sunlight remains for plants in the Herb/Fern Layer. Most of the plants in the
Herb/Fern layer have short life cycles.
Litter Layer
Primary Vegetation: Decaying plant and animal matter, Fungi, Mosses & Lichens
Alas, lying directly on the forest floor is the final forest layer, the Litter Layer. The litter layer is the
repository of all of the dead matter in the forest. As leaves, trees and other plants die, they fall from
upper layers and land on the forest floor. Here a host of bacteria, fungi, worms, insects and other
waste consumers chow down on the rubbish to create new nutrient-rich soil.
The newly released nutrients are then extracted from the soil by the plants in the forest. The
plants use the nutrients to create new leafs and organic matter that will once again return to the
Litter Layer. This recycling of matter creates an on-going balanced cycle that ensures the long term
sustainability of the forest.
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3. Identify six forest trees common to the area where you live. Tell how both wildlife and
humans use them. (If you don't live in a region that has forests, read about one type of
forest and name six of its trees and their uses.)
Red maple: (http://www.fw.vt.edu/dendro/dendrology/syllabus/factsheet.cfm?ID=1)
Leaf: Opposite, simple, 3 to 5 palmate lobes with serrated margin, sinuses relatively shallow (but
highly variable), 2 to 4 inches long; green above, whitened and sometimes glaucous or hairy
beneath.
Flower: Attractive but small, occur in hanging clusters, usually bright red but occasionally yellow,
appear in early spring, usually before leaves.
Fruit: Clusters of 1/2 to 3/4 inch long samaras with slighly divergent wings, on long slender stems.
Light brown and often reddish, ripen in late spring and early summer.
Twig: Reddish and lustrous with small lenticels, buds usually blunt, green or reddish (fall and winter)
with several loose scales usually present, leaf scars V-shaped, 3 bundle scars, lateral buds slightly
stalked, may be collateral buds present.
Bark: On young trees, smooth and light gray, with age becomes darker and breaks up into long, fine
scaly plates.
Form: Medium sized tree up to 90 feet. In forest, trunk usually clear for some distance, in the open
the trunk is shorter and the crown rounded.
Human uses include furniture and lumber. Wildlife eat the seeds and buds.
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Eastern white pine:
http://www.fw.vt.edu/dendro/dendrology/syllabus/factsheet.cfm?ID=111
Leaf: Evergreen needles, 3 to 5 inches long, with five, slender, flexible needles per fascicle; fascicle
sheath deciduous, needles appear blue-green because of 3 or more glaucous lines of stomata.
Flower: Monoecious; males cylindrical, yellow, in clusters near branch tips; females light green,
tinged in red, at ends of branches.
Fruit: Cones are 4 to 7 inches long, cylindrical, with thick, rounded cone scales, very resinous, borne
on a long stalk and maturing in late summer.
Twig: Slender, gray-green to orange-brown in color; buds long, ovoid, reddish brown.
Bark: On young trees, thin, smooth and gray-green with some lighter splotty patches; later becoming
thick, reddish brown to gray-brown with prominent finely scaly, rounded, long ridges and darker
furrows.
Form: A large tree with a very straight trunk often reaching well over 100 feet in height. The crown is
conical when young, later developing wispy, horizontal, upturning branches.
Humans use white pine for lumber and log homes. Wildlife eat the seeds and take refuge in the
dense foliage.
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Eastern hemlock: http://www.fw.vt.edu/dendro/dendrology/syllabus/factsheet.cfm?ID=116
Leaf: Evergreen, flat, single needles, 1/2 inch long, tapering to a dull point, primarily two-ranked,
shiny dark green above, 2 lines of white stomata below.
Flower: Monoecious; males yellow, small, round; females light green at branch tips.
Fruit: Ovoid light brown cone, 3/4 inch long with rounded, entire scales, maturing in early fall.
Twig: Slender, gray-brown in color; buds are very small.
Bark: Initially gray-brown and smooth then turning scaly; older trees are red-brown with wide ridges
and furrows; when cut or broken, purple streaks are obvious.
Form: A medium sized tree with a dense, conical crown, fine branches and a drooping terminal shoot
reaching up to 80 feet tall, typically a poor natural pruner.
Primary uses were in light framing, sheathing, roofing, subflooring, boxes, crates, and general
millwork. Much of the present production is used in pulping or newsprint and wrapping papers, but
the demand for hemlock lumber appears to be increasing again.
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Northern red oak:
http://www.fw.vt.edu/dendro/dendrology/syllabus/factsheet.cfm?ID=38
Leaf: Alternate, simple, 5 to 8 inches long, oblong in shape with 7 to 11 bristle-tipped lobes, sinuses
extend 1/3 to 1/2 of the way to midvein, generally very uniform in shape, dull green to blue-green
above and paler below.
Flower: Monoecious; males in yellow-green slender, hanging catkins, 2 to 4 inches long; females are
borne on short axiliary spikes, appearing with the leaves in spring.
Fruit: Acorns are 3/4 to 1 inch long and nearly round; cap is flat and thick, covering about 1/4 or less
of the acorn, resembling a beret; matures in 2 growing seasons, in late summer and fall.
Twig: Quite stout, red-brown and glabrous; terminal buds multiple, quite large, conical, and covered
with red-brown, mostly hairless scales but terminal scales may bear some frosty pubescence.
Bark: On young stems, smooth; older bark develops wide, flat-topped ridges and shallow furrows.
The shallow furrows form a pattern resembling ski tracts.
Form: A medium sized to large tree that reaches up to 90 feet tall, develops a short trunk and round
crown when open grown, straight with a clear, long bole when grown with competition.
Human uses include lumber, furniture, flooring, railroad ties and pallets. Main animal use is as food
(acorns.)
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Black cherry: http://www.fw.vt.edu/dendro/dendrology/syllabus/factsheet.cfm?ID=66
Leaf: Alternate, simple, 2 to 5 inches long, oblong to lance-shaped, finely serrated, very small
inconspicuous glands on petiole, dark green and lustrous above, paler below; usually with a dense
yellowish-brown, sometimes white pubescence along mid-rib.
Flower: Small white flowers in hanging, narrow clusters 4 to 6 inches long, appearing in late spring.
Fruit: Dark purple round drupe, almost black when ripe, 1/3 inch in diameter with a bitter-sweet
taste; matures in late summer.
Twig: Slender, reddish brown, sometimes covered in gray epidermis, pronounced bitter almond odor
and taste; buds are very small (1/5 inch),covered in several glossy, reddish brown to greenish scales.
Leaf scars are small and semicircular with 3 bundle scars.
Bark: Smooth with numerous short, narrow, horizontal lenticels when young; becomes very dark
(nearly black), breaking up into small, rough, irregular, upturned plates (burnt corn flakes), when
older.
Form: Medium sized tree which (on good sites) develops a long, straight, clear bole and can reach
heights approaching 100 feet.
Human uses include furniture. Main animal use is as food (fruit).
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White oak: http://www.fw.vt.edu/dendro/dendrology/syllabus/factsheet.cfm?ID=35
Leaf: Alternate, simple, oblong to ovate in shape, 4 to 7 inches long; 7 to 10 rounded, finger-like
lobes, sinus depth varies from deep to shallow, apex is rounded and the base is wedge-shaped,
green to blue-green above and whitish below.
Flower: Monoecious; male flowers are yellow-green, borne in naked, slender catkins, 2 to 4 inches
long; female flowers are reddish green and appear as very small single spikes; appearing with the
leaves in mid-spring.
Fruit: Ovoid to oblong acorn, cap is warty and bowl-shaped, covers 1/4 of the fruit; cap always
detaches at maturity; matures in one growing season in the early fall.
Twig: Red-brown to somewhat gray, even a bit purple at times, hairless and often shiny; multiple
terminal buds are red-brown, small, rounded (globose) and hairless.
Bark: Whitish or ashy gray, varying from scaly on smaller stems to irregularly platy or blocky on large
stems. On older trees smooth patches are not uncommon.
Form: A very large tree; when open grown, white oaks have rugged, irregular crowns that are wide
spreading, with a stocky bole. In the forest crowns are upright and oval with trees reaching up to 100
feet tall and several feet in diameter.
Human uses include lumber, furniture, flooring, railroad ties and pallets. Main animal use is as food
(acorns.)
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Black oak: http://www.fw.vt.edu/dendro/dendrology/syllabus/factsheet.cfm?ID=39
Leaf: Alternate, simple, 4 to 10 inches long, obovate or ovate in shape with 5 (mostly) to 7 bristle-
tipped lobes; leaf shape is variable, with sun leaves having deep sinuses and shade leaves having
very shallow sinuses, lustrous shiny green above, paler with a scruffy pubescence and axillary tufts
below.
Flower: Monecious, males borne on slender yellow-green catkins; females are reddish green and
borne on short spikes in leaf axils, appearing in spring with the leaves.
Fruit: Ovoid acorns, 1/2 to 3/4 inch long, 1/3 to 1/2 enclosed in a bowl-shaped cap; cap scales are
loosely appressed (particularly loose on edges of cap), light brown and fuzzy, matures in 2 years in
late summer and fall.
Twig: Stout and red-brown to gray-green, usually glabrous but rapidly growing twigs may be hairy;
buds are very large (1/4 to 1/2 inch long), buff-colored, fuzzy, pointed and distinctly angular.
Bark: At first gray and smooth, becoming thick and very rough, nearly black and deeply furrowed
vertically with horizontal breaks. The inner bark is yellow-orange and very bitter tasting.
Form: A medium sized tree to 80 feet with an irregular crown and a tapering, somewhat limby bole.
Human uses include lumber, furniture, flooring, railroad ties and pallets. Main animal use is as food
(acorns.)
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American beech:
http://www.fw.vt.edu/dendro/dendrology/syllabus/factsheet.cfm?ID=47
Leaf: Alternate, simple, elliptical to oblong-ovate, 2 1/2 to 5 1/2 inches long, pinnately-veined, 11-14
pairs of veins, with each vein ending in a sharp distinct tooth, shiny green above, very waxy and
smooth, slightly paler below.
Flower: Monoecious; male flowers borne on globose heads hanging from a slender 1 inch stalk,
female flowers borne on shorter spikes, appearing just after leaves in the spring.
Fruit: Nuts are irregularly triangular, shiny brown and edible, found in pairs within a woody husk
covered with spines, 1/2 to 3/4 inch long, maturing in the fall.
Twig: Very slender, zigzag, light brown in color; buds are long (3/4 inch), light brown, and slender,
covered with overlapping scales (best described as "cigar-shaped"), widely divergent from the stems,
almost looking like long thorns.
Bark: The bark is smooth, thin, and gray in color even on the largest stems. Beech bark diseases
severely deforms the smooth bark.
Form: A medium to large tree up to 100 feet tall with a rounded crown. Often found in thickets
produced by root suckering. Old trees may be surrounded by a ring of young beech.
Human uses include lumber, furniture, paper, and food (nuts). Main animal use is as food (nuts).
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Hickories: (Shagbark Hickory)
http://www.cnr.vt.edu/dendro/dendrology/syllabus/factsheet.cfm?ID=20
Leaf: Alternate, pinnately compound, 8 to 14 inches long with 5 (sometimes 7) leaflets, lateral
leaflets are obovate to lanceolate, terminal leaflets are much larger than the laterals, margins serrate
and ciliate, rachis stout and mostly glabrous; green above and paler below.
Flower: Monoecious; male flowers are yellow-green catkins, hanging in 3's, 2 to 3 inches long;
females are very short, in clusters at the end of branches, both appear spring.
Fruit: Nearly round, 1 1/2 to 2 inches, with a very thick husk; nut is distinctly 4-ribbed, and the seed
is sweet and delicious; maturing in fall.
Twig: Stout and usually glabrous, but may be somewhat pubescent near terminal bud, numerous
lighter lenticels; leaf scars are raised, 3-lobed to semicircular - best described as a "monkey face";
terminal bud is large, brown, and pubescent, covered with 3 to 4 brown scales, more elongated than
other hickories.
Bark: At first smooth and gray, later broken into long, wide plates attached at the middle, curving
away from the trunk resulting in a coarsely shaggy appearance.
Form: A tall tree reaching over 120 feet tall with a straight trunk and an open round to oblong crown.
The Shagbark Hickory tree has many uses, some of them include: sports equipment, furniture, or as
a smoke wood for meats. The nuts of the Shagbark tree are also edible and humans and squirrels
both compete for these nuts. But if I were you I wouldn't eat one! The Shagbark Hickory tree is very
common in the wild especially in the Eastern forests of the United States. Human uses include tool
handles, charcoal and cabinets. Animals use hickory nuts for food.
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Sugar maple: http://www.fw.vt.edu/dendro/dendrology/syllabus/factsheet.cfm?ID=2
Leaf: Opposite, simple and palmately veined, 3 to 6 inches long, 5 delicately rounded lobes, entire
margin; green above, paler below.
Flower: Light yellow-green, small, clustered, hanging from a long, slender (1 to 3 inch) stem,
appearing with or slightly before the leaves in early spring.
Fruit: Two-winged horseshoe-shaped samaras about 1 inch long, appearing in clusters, brown when
mature in in the fall.
Twig: Brown, slender and shiny with lighter lenticels; terminal buds brown, very sharp pointed, with
tight scales.
Bark: Variable, but generally brown, on older trees it becomes darker, develops furrows, with long,
thick irregular curling outward, firm ridges.
Form: Medium to tall tree (to 100 feet) with very dense elliptical crown.
Human uses include furniture, lumber and syrup. Wildlife eat the seeds and buds.
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4. Identify six forest plants (other than trees) that are useful to wildlife. Tell which
animals use them and for what purposes.
Wild grape, blackberry: deer, squirrels and birds eat fruit.
Greenbriar, honeysuckle: vines eaten by deer, hiding cover for birds and small animals.
Small annual plants (forbs): eaten by deer
Poison ivy: leaves eaten by deer, fruit eaten by birds.
Mushrooms eaten by squirrels, deer, mice, etc.
Grasses, ragweed, beggarticks, vetch, wild peas, smartweed, pigweed, goatweed: seeds eaten by
quail and other birds; grasses used to build nests. Hiding cover for birds and small animals.
5. Draw a picture showing * how water and minerals in the soil help a tree grow * how
the tree uses sunlight to help it grow. See booklet “Behind the Wall of Green” available from this
office or on the TN Department of Agriculture‟s web site, www.Tennessee.gov/agriculture/forestry .
Growing cells at the tips of branches need water to expand - like balloons. Growth slows or stops
without sufficient water. Water carries plant nutrients from the roots up through the sapwood to the
leaves. Food (sugar) produced by the leaves travels down through the phloem (inner bark) to feed
the roots. The sapwood stores water and sugar.
Trees need several soil elements to grow: nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, calcium, magnesium,
iron, and tiny amounts of boron, copper, zinc, molybdenum, and other elements. These are vital
ingredients in proteins, cell walls, chlorophyll, enzymes.
Most of the water and nutrients are picked up by microscopic "root hairs" near the surface of the soil.
These tiny feeder roots are constantly growing, dieing, and regrowing. Most are within one inch of
the ground. Deep tap roots on some species of trees bring up water when the surface soil is dry.
Fungus (mycorrhizae) that grows on and in the root itself helps greatly in gathering nutrients. The
tiny fungal filaments reach out into the soil and greatly increase the effective surface area of the
root. The tree feeds sugar to the fungus, and the fungus collects water and nutrients for the tree.
Understanding the trunk of a tree is key to understanding how a tree works, and a primary reason
why trees are so useful. The trunk is the part of a tree that connects the leafy crown with its roots.
Roots absorb water and nutrients from the soil, which are then transported up the tree trunk in cells
that act much like pipes. This allows the leaves to obtain water and nutrients that are necessary for
the manufacture of food from light energy (photosynthesis). Food made in the leaves is then
transported down to the roots and to other parts of the tree for growth. The "pipes" in the trunk are
known as vascular tissue. It is this vascular tissue which we exploit to make paper and other forest
products.
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6. Make a poster showing a tree's growth rings or examine the growth rings of a tree
stump. Explain how the rings tell its life history
At some time during your life you must have seen
annual (growth) rings, and you know that each
growth ring represents a year. What makes these
rings? An annual ring is one year's worth of xylem
growth. In most trees the xylem cells formed in the
spring are larger than those formed later in the
summer. The difference in size results in what
appears as a ring. In some species such as oak and
ash the spring xylem is so wide you can actually see
them with the naked eye resulting in a very clear
ring.
7. Collect pieces of three kinds of wood used for building houses. Tell what kinds of wood
they are and one place each of them might be used
Pine, Douglas-fir, spruce, fir: studs and beams, plywood, sub-flooring.
Oak: furniture, flooring, cabinet doors.
Birch: cabinets.
Yellow-poplar: molding and trim, cabinets.
White pine, spruce: shelving, trim.
Western red cedar: shakes or shingles.
Redwood: siding, outdoor decks.
Hickory: cabinets
Ash: flooring, cabinets
8. Plant 20 forest tree seedlings. Tell how you planted them and what you did to take
care of them after planting.
While planting each of these different types of trees differs in the details, all trees eventually end up
in a hole. But not any old hole will do.
The most common mistake when planting a tree is a digging hole, which is both too deep and too
narrow. Too deep and the roots don‟t have access to sufficient oxygen to ensure proper growth.
Too narrow and the root structure can‟t expand sufficiently to nourish and properly anchor the tree.
As a general rule, trees should be transplanted no deeper than the soil in which they were originally
grown. The width of the hole should be at least 3 times the diameter of the root ball or container or
the spread of the roots in the case of bare root trees. This will provide the tree with enough worked
earth for its root structure to establish itself.
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When digging in poorly drained clay soil, it is important to avoid „glazing‟. Glazing occurs when the
sides and bottom of a hole become smoothed forming a barrier, through which water has difficulty
passing. To break up the glaze, use a fork to work the bottom and drag the points along the sides of
the completed hole. Also, raising the centre bottom of the hole slightly higher than the surrounding
area. This allows water to disperse, reducing the possibility of water pooling in the planting zone.
Planting Balled and Burlapped Trees.
Balled and burlapped (B & B) trees, although best planted as soon as possible, can be stored for
some time after purchase as long as the ball is kept moist and the tree stored in a shady area. B & B
trees should always be lifted by the ball, never by the trunk. The burlap surrounding the ball of earth
and roots should either be cut away completely (mandatory, in the case of synthetic or plastic burlap)
or at least pulled back from the top third of the ball (in the case of natural burlap). Any string or
twine should also be removed. Backfill soil (combinations of peat moss, composted manure, topsoil,
etc.) is then placed in the hole surrounding the tree just to the height of the ball or slightly lower to
allow for some settling. Be careful not to compress the back fill soil as this may prevent water from
reaching the roots and the roots from expanding beyond the ball.
Planting Container Trees.
Container trees (though subject to greater heat and drying conditions than B and B) can also be
stored for a brief period of time after purchase as long as the soil in the container is kept moist and
the tree stored in a shady spot. The procedure for planting container trees is similar to that for B & B
trees. In the case of metal or plastic containers, remove the container completely. In the case of
fibre containers, tear the sides away.
Once carefully removed from the container, check the roots. If they are tightly compressed or
„potbound‟, use your fingers or a blunt instrument (to minimize root tearing) to carefully tease the
fine roots away from the tight mass and then spread the roots prior to planting. In the case of
extremely woody compacted roots, it may be necessary to use a spade to open up the bottom half of
the root system. The root system is then pulled apart or „butterflied‟ prior to planting. Loosening the
root structure in this way is extremely important in the case of container plants. Failure to do so may
result in the roots „girdling‟ and killing the tree. At the very least, the roots will have difficulty
expanding beyond the dimensions of the original container. To further assist this, lightly break up
even the soil outside the planting zone. This allows roots that quickly move out of the planting zone
to be more resilient as they anchor into existing surrounding soil conditions.
Once the tree is seated in the hole, the original soil is then back-filled into the hole to the soil level of
the container. Again, remember not to overly compress the back-filled soil especially by tramping it
with your feet. Compress gently using your hands instead.
9. Describe both the benefits and the harm wildfires can cause in a forest ecosystem. Tell
how you can prevent wildfire.
Benefits: As the struggle continues to unclog overgrown forests, fire can be as much of a help as a
menace. But the trick is deciding where the good outweighs the bad. That decision is increasingly
important as forest policy aims to get fire back to its "natural" role. That means some fires will be
allowed to burn, clearing out underbrush, restoring soil nutrients and thinning out tree canopies.
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Wildland fires open a seedbed for new plants; Help control plant disease; Naturally thins smaller trees
and prunes lower limbs of larger trees; Periodic fire stimulates growth, reproduction of plants, and
provides wildlife habitat; Reduces underbrush that could fuel a disastrous blaze; Reduces wildfire
suppression costs; Protects plants and animals that depend on fire by improving habitats and
watersheds.
Harmful:
- Wildfire can kill trees, especially in the Western US where fires are most intense. In the East
wildfires sometimes kills trees, but more often they just injure them. Fire kills the inner bark,
especially on the uphill side where leaves accumulate against the tree trunk. Fungus gets in these
wounds and rots the heart out of the tree. This destroys their future value for timber.
- Wildfire burns houses and other property. This increases the cost of insurance for everyone who
lives in the country.
- Wildfires can - and do - kill people.
- Very large fires can sometimes temporarily reduce populations of certain species of wildlife. Small
fires usually benefit many kinds of animals.
- Hot fires over dry soil can cause erosion on steep mountainsides.
- Frequent fires can deplete soil humus and nutrients in some cases.
- Wildfires pollute the air.
- Fighting wildfires is expensive and dangerous.
- Burned-over areas are ugly.
10. Draw your own urban forestry plan for adding trees to a street, yard, or park near
your home. Show what types of trees you would like to see planted.
Some tips:
- Be sure the species you choose will not be too big for the place you plant it.
- If you plant under utility lines, use low-growing species like flowering crabapple.
- Try to determine if the soil is good enough to plant in. You should be able to easily dig into it. Soil
in some urban areas has soil composed of rock, gravel, pieces of lumber or siding, and other building
debris rather than good soil.
- Part of your plan should be long-term. Who will care for the trees? How? Urban trees often don‟t
live long, by tree standards. How will trees be replaced? Will you allow time for replacements to
grow before the older trees start dying?
Local NH Community Forestry & Stewardship Bureau Contact Information:
http://dred.state.nh.us/divisions/forestandlands/bureaus/communityforestry/contactus.htm
J.B. Cullen - Administrator
Email jbcullen@dred.state.nh.us
Phone 603-271-2214
Urban Forestry Center
http://dred.state.nh.us/divisions/forestandlands/bureaus/communityforestry/urbanforestrycenter.htm
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Urban Forestry Center
Introduction and History
Urban Forestry Center
One of New Hampshire‟s most unique resources is not found on a majestic mountain top... or in the
state‟s many lakes, rivers, and streams... or even within its forests. It‟s actually located on a quiet
road on the outskirts of Portsmouth, just waiting to be discovered by anyone who values New
Hampshire‟s woodlands and natural resources.
The Urban Forestry Center was established in 1976, and was given to the people of New Hampshire
through a generous bequest by John Elwyn Stone, a direct descendant of John Langdon, the first
governor of the state. Mr. Stone‟s gift consists of 182 acres of field, forest, and saltmarsh, several
buildings, and the annual interest income from a trust fund. The property is managed by the Division
of Forests and Lands of the Department of Resources and Economic Development. The trust is
managed by the Bank of New Hampshire – Trust Department.
The Center is used as a Tree Farm to demonstrate proper forest management, a bird and wildlife
sanctuary, a garden and landscape demonstration site, and as a learning center offering information
and programming in community forestry planning, forest management, ecology, tree and plant
identification, and wildlife stewardship.
Staff
J.B. Cullen Administrator
A.J. Dupere Community Forester
Norman Daroska Property and Maintenance Supervisor
Donna Haskins Program Assistant
Caroll Carbonneau Grounds Supervisor
Angela Maddux Hammond
CFAC Secretary
Janice Mellian Garden Assistant
Public / Educational Programs
Whether you are interested in identifying animal tracks in the snow, learning which shrubs and trees
to plant to attract more birds to your backyard, or just interested in becoming a better steward of
your land, The Urban Forestry Center has something for you.
Throughout the year, the Center presents informative, educational, and entertaining seminars led by
expert speakers; slide shows; historical programs; field trips; and hands-on demonstrations where
you can learn about any topic connected with forestry and natural resources. These sessions are
informative, educational, and entertaining. They also provide a great opportunity to meet other
people who share your interests. (See Coming Events).
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Programs at the Urban Forestry Center are presented in cooperation with the University of New
Hampshire Cooperative Extension, New Hampshire Community Forestry Advisory Council, and the
U.S. Forest Service - State and Private Forestry.
Landscaping
Urban Forestry Center, Portsmouth NH
For do-it-yourself landscapers, the Urban Forestry Center offers ideas for perennial borders,
woodland gardens, groundcovers, herb and vegetable gardens, and landscaping tips to attract
wildlife.
In its “converging landscape” demonstration area near the main buildings, the Center has used
plantings that blend with the surrounding natural landscape, and also provide a feeling of unity and
continuous space between the buildings. These plantings complement the architecture, provide a
welcoming atmosphere, and allow for heavy use of the area by people.
At the Center, visitors can see, smell, and touch hundreds of different plants, herbs, and shrubs, and
get helpful information to assist them in planning their own gardens and landscape projects. For the
novice or advanced landscapers, the staff at the Center can put you in touch with a variety of experts
who can provide you with technical advice.
Forest Management
Most of New Hampshire‟s 4.5 million acres of timberland is privately owned. This land provides
timber, wildlife habitat, recreation opportunities, and many other benefits. Yet to be used to its full
potential, landowners need to understand the importance of proper forest management.
In order to demonstrate that trees and forests need to be cared for and maintained, the Urban
Forestry Center has:
A 95-acre forest management area which features many examples of deciduous (leaves) and
coniferous (needles) trees that are commonly found in New Hampshire;
A red pine plantation, a spruce plantation, an arboretum which allows close identification of
individual species;
A self-guided trail system leads visitors through scenic woodlands.
As urban growth and development continues, town and city planners, land developers, conservation
commissions, and others involved with trees in New Hampshire‟s urban and community forests need
to understand how to select, plant, and maintain the trees and shrubs that beautify our towns and
cities. This technical assistance is available at the Urban Forestry Center.
Trails walking shoes
For those who like to experience the outdoors firsthand, the Urban Forestry Center offers a series of
self-guided trails. These trails are used for walking, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing.
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The Tree Identification Trail is a self-guided walk that leads visitors through the Center‟s Mixed
Deciduous Forest, Northern Hardwood Forest, Saltmarsh Wetland, Red Pine Plantation, and Blue
Spruce Plantation.
The Goodwin Trail is a two-mile (round-trip) trail which takes visitors through a scenic woodland
setting, where native wildflowers, birds, and animals can be seen.
The trail also provides visual access to a tidal saltmarsh on Sagamore Creek. The marsh is a
transition zone from the land to the sea, acting as a buffer between the land‟s freshwater and the
ocean‟s saltwater.
Facilities
Urban Forestry Center, Portsmouth NH
The John Elwyn Stone - Forestry Learning Center is the site for most programs and seminars. It
houses a large conference room that seats approximately 100 people classroom style, has audio-
visual equipment, a small kitchenette, a smaller meeting room, and restrooms. Posters, photographic
displays, and other natural resource information is often on display here.
The Historic Cape / Administrative Headquarters contains offices, a natural resource library, and the
historic home of the Langdon family.
Rosemary Cottage is located near the Historic Cape and is used as an outdoor classroom with a
greenhouse.
All buildings are handicap accessible.
Directions
From Interstate 95 Northbound/Southbound: take Exit #5 to the Portsmouth Traffic Circle. From the
Circle, take Route 1 Bypass South. This will merge into Route 1 South. Proceed about 2 miles thru a
series of five lights. At the next set of lights you should be in the left turn only lane (Market Basket
will be on your right). Turn left onto Elwyn Road. Take the first left turn (approximately 500 feet)
into the Urban Forestry Center road to the parking lot.
From Route 4: take Route 4 to the Spaulding Turnpike, across the General Sullivan Bridge, and past
Pease International Tradeport. Move into the far left lane to the Portsmouth Traffic Circle. From the
Circle follow the above directions.
Where we are located. ufc_location.jpg (55909 bytes)
Urban Forestry Center Coming Events
For More Information: contact the Urban Forestry Center at 45 Elwyn Road, Portsmouth, N.H. 03801-
5701, telephone (603) 431-6774.
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