FALL PROTECTION/CONFINED ENTRY
IS MORE THAN A HARNESS
THINK KNOTS AND LASHING
THINK RESCUE
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Three Things
• One Have done a Hazard Assessment and
Written Rescue Plan
• Two is every one on the team trained properly
• Three have you inspected your gear and know
how to tie items off properly
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RISK MANAGEMENT
…because the best emergency is the one that never happens, and an injury
that’s avoided needs no treatment!
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Ropes Used In Rescue
• Static Kern mantle
– Fiber bundles run parallel
– Stretches no more than 20%
– Known as “low-stretch rope”
• Dynamic Kern mantle
– Made of twisted strands
– Stretches as much as 60%
– Known as “high-stretch rope”
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Safety Essentials
Personnel Protective Equipment
Fall protection for all personnel working in
elevated positions
Redundancy
Safety Checks
Safety Officer
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Strengths for Lifeline Rope
• Tensile or Breaking Strength
• 7/16” – 6,000 lbs
• 1/2” – 9,000 lbs
• 5/8” – 13,000 lbs
• Working Strength = Tensile / 15
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NFPA Rope Classifications
• Class 1 (Light use) – One person life safety
rope w/ > 300 lbs working strength
• Class 2 (General use) – Two person life safety
rope w/ > 600 lbs working strength
• Note: Life Safety Rope must have an internal
tracer tape indicating compliance
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Natural Fiber Ropes
• Natural fiber ropes were often made of manila.
– Fibers woven together
– Various lengths twisted together for strands
• Current use for utility, not life safety tasks
• Disadvantages
– Subject to mildew and deterioration
– May absorb 50% of their weight in water
– Very difficult to dry
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Synthetic Fiber Rope
• Nylon first manufactured in 1938
• Synthetic fibers have been used for ropes ever
since.
• Types
– Nylon
– Polyester
– Polypropylene
– Polyethylene
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Twisted Rope Construction
(1 of 2)
• Also called laid ropes
• Made of individual fibers
twisted into strands
• Strands are twisted to make
the rope.
• Both natural and synthetic
fibers can be twisted.
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Braided Rope Construction
• Strands are woven like hair
braiding.
• Exposes all of the strands to
abrasion
• Synthetic fibers are most
commonly used.
• Fibers stretch but not prone
to twisting
• Double-braiding can protect
inner core.
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Kernmantle Rope Construction
• Consists of two parts: the
kern and the mantle
• Kern is the center core and
provides 70% of rope’s
strength.
• Mantle is the sheath-like
braided covering that
protects kern from dirt and
abrasion.
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Harnesses
Class I harness Class II harness
(ladder belt) (seat)
Class III harness
(chest)
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Trench Rescues
• Often are complicated and require a number
of skills
– Shoring
– Air quality monitoring
– Confined space operations
– Ropes
• Ropes are often used to remove the trapped
person.
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Think about your plan
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Examples of Confined Spaces:
• Tanks • Vaults
• Manholes • Pipes
• Boilers • Trenches
• Furnaces • Tunnels
• Sewers • Ducts
• Silos • Bins
• Hoppers • Pits
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NOTICE:
• Any time a limit is exceeded, no
matter what the reason, all
personnel shall immediately exit the
space, and no others shall enter
until atmospheric conditions are
returned to safe levels.
THERE ARE NO EXCEPTIONS TO THIS!
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Atmosphere Testing Shall Be
Performed:
• Prior to every entry when the space is vacant;
• After a 10 minute ventilation period (if
ventilation is necessary);
• At least hourly for permit-required confined
spaces.
• More frequently, if conditions or suspicions
warrant.
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Test the atmosphere
Always test the
air at various levels
to be sure that the Good Air
entire space is safe.
Poor Air
Good air near the
opening does NOT
mean there is good
air at the bottom!
Deadly Air
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Reaction Time
• Time between the entrant having a problem
requiring rescue and the safety attendant’s
recognition that the entrant has problem
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Contact Time
• The time taken by the attendant to contact
the rescue team.
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Response Time
• The time taken by the rescuers to arrive at the
scene of the rescue after contact.
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Assessment Time
• The time taken by a rescue team to size up the
problem and determine the strategy to
perform a safe, efficient rescue
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Preparation Time
• The time take by a rescue team to set up for
the rescue.
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Rescue Time
• The time taken for the team to reach, treat,
package, and evacuate the victim from the
confined space.
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Rescue Response Time Goal
• 0 – 3 minutes
– Permit-Required Confined Space incident occurs and rescue team is
called
• 3 – 13 minutes (10 min. duration)
– Rescue Team Arrives at the Scene
• 13 – 23 minutes (10 min. duration)
– Rescue Team Sizes up and Prepares to initiate rescue
• 23 – 38 minutes (15 min. duration)
– Rescue team reaches and rescues patient.
• 38 – 53 minutes (15 min. duration)
– Patient is transported and arrives at emergency room
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Determining Rescue Response
• Entry Supervisor must decide for each entry
• Three questions should be asked
– Is the hazard or potential hazard immediately
dangerous to life or health (IDLH)?
– Is breathing air required for entry?
– Would the entrant have difficulty exiting the space
unassisted?
• Any “yes” – then Rescue Standby (RS)
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Equipment Description and
Capabilities – Harness
• Used for
– Fall protection
– Confined space rescue
• Most common in C.S.
– Flat nylon webbing
– Full body
– Point of attachment in the
center of the back at
shoulder level
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Equipment Description and
Capabilities – Carabiners
• Used for
– Attach equipment together
in rescue systems
• Vary in construction,
shape, material and size
• Most common in C.S.
– Large
– Locking
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Equipment Description and
Capabilities – Pulleys
• First Class Lever
– R (resistance)
– F (fulcrum)
– E (effort)
– Fixed Pulley
• Second Class Lever
– F (fulcrum)
– R (resistance)
– E (effort)
– Moving Pulley
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Equipment Description and
Capabilities – Tripod
• Used for
– Access to vertical entry
• Most common in C.S.
– 9-foot height or greater
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Knots
• Knot efficiency
– Knots rated for strength by the percentage of rope
strength that remain when a knot is tied in the
rope.
– Knots should always be tied off.
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Inspection and Care
• Use manufacturer's recommendations
• Inspect by looking and feeling
• New ropes inspected and a rope log created
• Rope should be retired based on experience and good
judgment, used in conjunction with education
• Store IAW manufacturer’s recommendations and to avoid
degradation from the environment
sun, heat, exhaust, acid, hot concrete
• Rope can be washed by hand with a commercial rope
washer or in a laundry machine
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Cleaning and Care of Rope
Safety: The life of a climbing rope depends greatly on use and damage and, to a lesser extent, on care, cleaning, and
storage.
Cleaning: Climbing ropes should be washed occasionally by hand in cold water with a mild soap, rinsed free of the soap,
and then spread out or hung up to dry in the air. Avoid direct sunlight, do not use a dryer, and do not place the rope above a
heat source.
Care: Keep your rope off the ground to protect it from dirt which contains sharp small chips and crystals. Avoid contact with
chemicals, acids, alkalis, bleach, oxidizing agents (present in concrete), and embers, sparks or other sources of ignition,
e.g., smokers. Avoid treading on your rope as this may work sharp particles into the core. Use climbing rope only for
climbing - not for towing a vehicle.
Storage: Climbing rope should be stored, preferably after drying, at room temperature, ideally in a storage bag.
Life Expectancy: Manufacturers recommend a retirement schedules which errs on the side of caution and also,
presumably, on the side of profit! How long you decide to use the rope depends on your own inspection, knowledge of the
rope's history, and assessment.
If a rope has not suffered a major fall, i.e., approaching factor 2 (a fall double the rope distance from the belay); if the sheath
shows no significant wear or damage; and if the rope has not been exposed to damage from chemicals: it is almost certainly
safe to use it within the schedule shown below. However, repeated minor falls, heat from rapid rappelling, and rappelling
using small diameter carabineers all tend to weaken rope.
Replacement:
•Occasional use, e.g., alternate weekends: every 4 years
•Every Weekend: every 2 years
•Sport climbing involving frequent short falls: every 3 - 6 months
•Major fall (approaching factor 2): immediately
•Flat spots, soft spots, becoming stiff, sheath damage: immediately
•Unsure of condition or history: immediatelybar Y Safety Consultants Alberta Canada
P
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Ladder Safety
Lashing a Ladder
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Safety Lines
• Always inspect your safety line
equipment prior to use
• All points along your anchor/ safety line
system must be capable of holding a
minimum of 5,000 pounds
• Free fall distance should be kept at a
minimum, and in no case should
exceed 6 feet. !
• Prior Planning is the Key
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Safety Lines
Rope Selection
• 5/8 inch Nylon - 10,600
• 1/2 inch Kernmantle - 10,000
• 1/2 inch Polyester - 9,300
• 1/2 inch Nylon -
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• When you are planning on setting up a Personal Fall Arrest system,
you need to make sure that you choose the proper rope.
Remember that all points in the system must be capable of holding
a minimum of 5,000 pounds.
• The 5/8-inch Nylon rope is what we primarily use as our anchor
line.
• The 1/2-inch Kernmantle is the rope that we use when we have to
rappel.
• We do not use a 1/2 Polyester nor the 1/2 inch Nylon ropes at
Pestguard. However, they are viable options for use in this system
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Safety Lines
Anchorage Points
• Steel members or I-beams (if an acceptable
strap is available)
• Large eye bolts made of acceptable grade steel
• Guardrails or railings (if designed for use as an
anchor point)
• Masonry or wood members
• Mobile home anchors, concrete D-ring
anchors
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Fall Factors
Fall Factor = the distance fallen divided by
the length of rope used to arrest the fall
A fall factor of .25 is preferred
Fall factor = 10 feet of fall / 10 feet of rope
Fall factor = 20 feet of fall / 10 feet of rope
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Ropes and Knot Tying
• Never tie a nylon rope
directly to a nylon
rope!
• Use the minimum
number of knots
required
• Know how to properly
tie the knot
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KNOTS & HITCHES
NFPA defines rescuer skills
NFPA 1006 Standard for Rescue Technician Professional Qualifications 2000 Edition
3-5 Ropes/Rigging.3-5.1 Tie knots, bends and hitches, given ropes and webbing, so that the knots are properly dressed,
recognizable, and safety's as required.
(a) Requisite Knowledge: Knot efficiency, proper knot utilization, rope construction, rope terminology, and methods of
safety,
(b) Requisite Skills: Tie representative knots, bends, or hitches for the following purposes:
(1) End of line loop
(2) Midline loop
(3) Securing rope around desired objects
(4) Joining rope or webbing ends together
(5) Gripping rope
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KNOTS & HITCHES
CONSIDERATIONS
KNOTS ARE SELECTED FOR THEIR SIMPLICITY, STRENGTH, MULTIPLE FUNCTIONS AND USES AND FOR THEIR EASE OF
RECOGNITION.
• SIMPLICITY IS IMPORTANT WHEN SELECTING A KNOT, KEEPING IN MIND THAT MANY KNOTS ARE TIED UNDER STRESS
AND INCLEMENT ENVIRONMENTS. THIS DOES NOT IMPLY, HOWEVER, THAT YOU MAY EMPLOY ANY KNOT THAT COMES TO
MIND. THE UNIT HAS "PRE-SELECTED" APPROVED KNOTS, HITCHES AND BENDS THAT HAVE BEEN TESTED AND MEET
STRICT CRITERIA.
• STRENGTH IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ASPECT WHEN SELECTING A KNOT FOR THE APPLICATION. MANY KNOTS WOULD
PROBABLY WORK, BUT MANY WOULD NOT HAVE THE SAME EFFICIENCY. FOR EXAMPLE: A DOUBLE FIGURE 8 KNOT IS ~
5% STRONGER THAN A SINGLE LOOP FIGURE 8, AND 15% STRONGER THAN A BOWLINE.
• THERE ARE OVER 15 KNOTS THAT THE TECHNICAL RESCUE TEAM USES IN ITS SYSTEMS AND RIGGINGS. THERE ARE
MANY MORE THAN THAT AVAILABLE IN THE RIGGERS TOOLBOX; HOWEVER, IT IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER THAT WHILE
MANY KNOTS DO THE SAME THING, KEEPING THE SYSTEMS "SIMPLE" IS CRUCIAL THIS ALLOWS THE SAFETY OFFICER TO
RAPIDLY CHECK THE SYSTEM, QUICKLY IDENTIFYING KNOTS THAT ARE TIED CORRECTLY, BECAUSE OF FREQUENT TYING
AND USE OF A SELECT FEW KNOTS.
SELECTION
• KNOTS ARE SELECTED FOR THEIR "EFFICIENCY". THIS MEANS THAT SOME ARE MORE EFFICIENT THAN OTHERS. AN
EXAMPLE OF THIS RATING IS A ROPE THAT IS RATED AT 50% EFFICIENT. THIS MEANS IF THE ROPE IS RATED AT 9000#, AND
A FIGURE 8 KNOT IS TIED INTO IT, THE ROPE IS NOW ONLY 4500# RATED.
• SOME KNOTS ARE SELECTED BECAUSE THEY ELIMINATE EQUIPMENT, SUCH AS CARABINERS, OR PROVIDE MULTIPLE
DIRECTIONS OF LOADING. OTHERS ARE SELECTED FOR THEIR SIMPLICITY IN TYING AND VERIFYING, AND UNTYING WHEN
LOADED.
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KNOTS & HITCHES
FIGURE 8 "FAMILY”
• THESE KNOTS ARE USED FOR TYING PERSONNEL INTO SYSTEMS, ATTACHING RIGGING TO ANCHORS, AND ROPES TO
LITTERS. THEY ARE TYPICALLY 75-80% EFFICIENT. A FIGURE 8 FOLLOW THROUGH IS USED TO ATTACH TWO ROPES TOGETHER,
OR FOR TYING PERSONNEL DIRECTLY INTO A SYSTEM. THIS FAMILY OF KNOTS IS THE MOST POPULAR OF ALL THE KNOT
CHOICES IN RESCUE WORK.
BOWLINE
• THIS KNOT IS ALSO USED FOR TYING PERSONNEL DIRECTLY INTO A SYSTEM. IT IS ALSO USED WHEN A HEAVY LOAD IS
EXPECTED ON A KNOT AND NEEDS TO BE EASILY UNTIED. BECAUSE OF THIS FEATURE, A BACK-UP OR SAFETY OVERHAND
KNOT MUST BE USED. THIS KNOT IS ONLY 65% EFFICIENT.
WATER KNOT (FOLLOW THROUGH)
• THIS KNOT IS USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH WEBBING. IT IS EASILY SLIPPED, AND THEREFORE, A OVERHAND SAFETY
MUST ALSO BE USED. THE KNOT IS THE PREFERRED CHOICE WHEN TYING RUNNERS OR WHEN CREATING ANCHORS MADE OF
TUBULAR WEBBING. IT IS 80% EFFICIENT.
DOUBLE FISHERMAN'S (BARREL KNOT)
• THIS KNOT IS USED WHEN TYING TWO PIECES OF ROPE OR CORDAGE TOGETHER. IT IS THE PREFERRED KNOT WHEN
CREATING PRUSIKS. THERE IS NO PUBLISHED EFFICIENCY RATING ON THIS KNOT.
MUNTER HITCH
• A HITCH RATHER THAN A KNOT, THIS IS USED TO BELAY PERSONNEL OR GEAR, AND ALSO FOR PERSONAL RAPPELLING.
THIS HITCH IS NOT TO BE USED FOR RESCUE LOADS OR MORE THAN TWO PEOPLE.
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Whipping
• Whipping is a good start if you want to learn
about knotting.
• Use a thick thread, with different colors at each
end of the rope.
• We use in making the carrying the rope very
easily.
• Normally used to secure an eye splice or to
protect the bitter end of a rope from chafe.
• Used to protect the end of a rope from chafe. Can
only be used on stranded rope.
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The Reef knot
It is used to join two dry ropes of the
same thickness.
It will not slip, and can be easily untied
when wanted.
Do not confuse it with the "Granny"
knot. It is the only knot used in First Aid
work.
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Timber hitch
• Used to tie on the poles.
• Is a very strong knot.
• Can be used in dragging fire woods during
camping.
• There are of two kinds full timber hitch and
half timber hitch.
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The Clove Hitch
• Use to attach a rope to a pole, this knot provide a quick and
secure result.
• It rarely jams, and can in fact suffer from the hitch unrolling
under tension if the pole can turn.
• Often used to start and finish lashings.
• With practice, this can be easily tied with one hand - especially
useful for sailors!
• A knot that is easy to make. Usable when you want to moor a
boat. Do not use to tie something to a square post as it can
easily come off.
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Fishermen’s knot
• For stiff ropes and cords you shall use the
Fisherman's Knot.
• You should make it double on cords of nylon,
or it will not last.
• The fisherman's knot is used by fishermen to
tie silkworm gut together. I
• t is easily untied by pulling the two short ends,
but it never slips.
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The Sheet Bend
• The Sheetbend is a knot that you use to tie
two ropes together.
• Good both for thick and thin ropes. Easy to
untie.
• Use the Sheet bend (Becket Hitch) when you
hoist a flag, and the loop already exist.
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Sheep Shank
• The Sheepshank is a shortening knot, which enables a rope to
be shortened non-destructively.
• It is sometimes necessary to shorten a rope temporarily and
not desirable to cut it, and the sheep-shank knot solves the
problem.
• It is used by the sailors, who do not believe in cutting ropes.
• It will stand a tremendous strain without slipping, but will
loosen when held slack, and can be untied by a quick jerk of
the two outside ropes forming the bights.
• Tip. Never cut ropes to shorten them!
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Bow Line
• The bowline, a loop that will not slip, to tie
round a person lowered from a building, etc.
• Fixed loop, very safe. You can use it when
climbing and lifesaving etc.
• If your life depends on this knot, you should
do an extra knot to make it safer.
• Often learnt by thinking of the end as a rabbit,
and the loop as its hole, and as Elma Fudd
would say: The rabbit grows up, out of his
hole, wound the back of the tree, and back
down into his burrow!
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Thief Hitch
• The Thief knot resembles the Reef knot at a
casual glance.
• Note that the ends of the Thief Knot come off
opposite sides of the knot. In the Reef knot,
they come off the same sides.
• However, the Thief knot has no strength
whatsoever, and will slip under tension.
• Tip. Only use this knot for tricks. NEVER use it
where life and limb are at risk.
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Thumb knot (Overhand Knot)
• This is the simplest knot of all. It is commonly
use to temporarily "stop" the end of a fraying
rope.
• The overhand knot is commonly tied in a bight
formed at the end of a rope, forming the
Overhand Loop.
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Whipping Rope
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Simple Whipping. All ropes should have
their ends treated in some way to stop
them from fraying or becoming un-
stranded. A whipping will fail if it is not
tight and tidy.
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Step 1
Step 2 Step 3
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WEST COUNTRY WHIPPING
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Square Knot
You can loosen the square knot easily by either pushing the ends toward the knot or
by "upsetting" the knot by pulling back on one end and pulling the other through the
loops.
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Timber Hitch
This is an important hitch, especially for dragging a heavy object like a log. It will hold
firmly so long as there is a steady pull; slacking and jerking may loosen it. The timber
hitch is also useful in pioneering when two timbers are "sprung" together. When it is
used for dragging, a simple hitch should be added near the front end of the object to
guide it.
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The Timber Hitch
(Lumberman's or Countryman's Knot)
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Half Hitch
The half hitch is the start of a number of other hitches and is useful all by istelf as a
temporary attaching knot.
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Two Half Hitches
This is a reliable and useful knot for attaching a rope to a pole or boat mooring. As it's
name suggests, it is two half hitches, one after the other. To finish, push them together
and snug them by pulling on the standing part.
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Clove Hitch
This is one of the most widely used knots. Because it passes around an object in only
one direction, it puts very little strain on the rope fibers. Tying it over an object that is
open at one end is done by dropping one overhand loop over the post and drawing them
together. The other method of tying it is used most commonly if the object is closed at
both ends or is too high to toss loops over. The latter is used in starting and finishing
most lashings.
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The Clove Hitch
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Bowline
The bowline has been called the king of knots. It will never slip or jam if properly made
and, thus, is excellent for tying around a person in a rescue. Begin by formatting an
overhand loop in the standing part. Then take the free end up through the eye, around
the standing part and back where it came from.
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BOWLINE
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The Bowline
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Sheet Bend
The sheet bend is the most important knot for joining two rope ends, especially if the
ropes are of different sizes. Sailors named it in the days of sailing ships when they would
"bend" (tie) the "sheets"' (ropes in the rigging of a ship).
Begin with a bight in the larger rope. THen weave the end of the smaller rope p thrgh
the eye, around the bight, and back under itself. Snug it carefully before applying any
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The Sheet Bend
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Sheepshank
This knot is used to shorten a rope that is fastened at both ends. Take up the slack,
then make an underhand loop and slide it over the blight and pull tight. Do the same to
the other end to complete the knot. The sheepshank is only a temporary knot as it
stands. But it can be made more permanent by adding a second half hitch to each end.
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The Sheepshank
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The Double Overhand Stopper Knot
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Taut-line Hitch
Since it will only slide one way, the Taut-line hitch is often used on tent ropes. The taut-
line hitch will hold firmly on a smooth pole such as a scout stave. Place rope end around
pole, make a turn below it, then bring rope up across the standing part around the pole
and tuck through.
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The Rolling Hitch
(Taut Line Hitch)
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Basic Figure 8
Can be used as a “stopper” or the start of a Figure 8 Follow-Through
Figure 8 On a Bite with Overhand Safety
Also a finished Figure 8 Follow-Through
Double Figure 8 with Overhand Safety
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The Butterfly knot is used to put a loop in the middle of a line that will take load in both directions
The Double Fisherman’s Knot is used in making Prusik cords or can be used to join two ropes
The Munter Hitch can be used for lowering a load, or self-lowering
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WEBBING KNOTS
Overhand Knot
An overhand knot followed through from the opposite direction
makes a water knot. Can be used to join two pieces of webbing
or to make a loop that can be used as an anchor.
Water Knot
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UTILITY KNOTS
Not used for life safety
Bowline
Clove Hitch
Clove Hitch
from Webbing
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ANCHOR TYPES
TENSIONLESS ANCHOR
Minimum 3 wraps, more if
surface is smooth
Aligns with direction of pull
Same strength as rope
because no load on knot
Using a tree having a rough surface
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ANCHOR TYPES
Webbing Anchors
Wrap once – Least Wrap two, pull one – Wrap three, pull two –
desirable because load better because load is best because load is
is on knot taken off knot off knot and web is
doubled for strength
Tubular Webbing is rated 4000 lbs
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LOAD SHARING ANCHOR
Viewed from load
Viewed from anchor
Used where strength from multiple anchors is required
The load is distributed among the anchor points
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MAIN LINE ROPE BAG
Recommended equipment (CCFD6 list)1 each
Anchor strap 20'
Webbing (black) 25' 1 each
Collection Plate 1 each
W/ carabineer
Brake rack 1 each
W/ carabineer
Prusiks minding pulley 1 each
W/ carabineer
Prusiks - long & short 1 set
Load releasing hitch 1 each
9 mm rope 30’ 1 each
Carabineer 2 each
Prusiks - long & short 1 set
Knee pads 1 set
Rope 1/2" 200' 1 each
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BELAY BAG
Equipment
Helmet
200’ ½” Rope
Anchor Plate w/Caribiner
Load Releasing Hitch w/Caribiner
Prusik Minding Pulley w/Caribiner and 2 Prusik cords
3 Slings of different lengths
Edge Protector
Rescuer Harness w/ Caribiner and 2 Prusik Cords
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LOWERING A LOAD/RESCUER
“RPM”, stored in the Main Line
Rope Bag, is the basis for the
main line lowering / haul system.
It consists of an anchor plate
with:
Ladder Rack
Prusik Minding Pulley
Mariner’s Load Releasing Hitch
Also stored for convenience is a
simple pulley and two Prusik
cords.
Note the orientation of the carabiners on all of
the devices. The opening should be toward the
load so that vibrations in the rope will not
vibrate the collets open.
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LADDER RACK
Ladder Rack shown with the Main Line Rope threaded over all
six friction bars. In practice, fewer bars are needed to control
the average load. These bars can be easily removed while
under load.
Ladder Rack tied off
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SAFETY LINE
A Safety Line using a Prusik Minding Pulley and two Prusik Cords
This safety line could be easily converted to a haul system.
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SELF LOWERING
Belaying is the preferred lowering method. If rapid access to a patient is
required, then rappelling is an alternative.
To quickly stop, pass
the free and of the
rope between the load
line and the 8
To fully lock off the 8, take a
bight and pass it through the top
of the 8 and secure it to the
main line with a carabiner
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SELF LOWERING
A Munter Hitch can be used for self lowering in a low angle situation. It can only
create enough friction for a single rescuer load.
The load line in this picture is
shown in line with the anchor
rope. The tail on the left is used
to control the amount of friction
necessary to lower the load. It is
not as convenient to tie off as
the rescue 8.
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THE NEXT 9 SLIDES SHOW HOW TO MAKE A TEMPORARY HARNESS FROM WEBBING
Tuck the middle of the webbing into the waistband
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Bring each end down and between the legs and out to the sides
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Bring the ends around and through the part tucked into the waistband
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Pull on the ends and let the center part come out of the waistband
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Wrap the ends around the waist to take up the extra webbing
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Continue wrapping around the waist
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Continue wrapping around the waist
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Tie off the ends with a double overhand knot
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Attach a carabiner as shown. This can be used to secure
A patient in a stretcher as well as provide a means to lift a
short distance.
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Basic Rescue Knots
• Clove Hitch
• Used secure a rope to an object
• Around an object
• Over an object
• Double Fisherman
• Used to create a prussic hitch
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Basic Rescue Knots
• Figure Eight Knot
• On a bight – around an object
• Follow through – around an object
• Double loop – for a dual anchor point
• Inline – as a anchor point
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RAISING A RESCUE LOAD
CONSIDERATIONS
When rigging a rescue load, the technical rescue team complies with the NFPA standards and guidelines for rescue loads. The
considerations and assumptions are:
• Each person, regardless of actual weight, is calculated at 300#. For example, (2) persons (victim and rescuer), with full gear is
600#.
• Each hauler that pulls on the mechanical advantage is capable of pulling 60# of effort. This is regardless of their actual pulling
ability, that way if someone pulls more than their 60#; it is not compromising the systems capability.
• That a (2) rope system is always employed during a high angle environment. That a 15:1 safety margin is used on all systems.
LOADS
• As mentioned above, each rescuer and or person weighs 300#. This is based on the 15:1 safety margin rule that was also
discussed. The unit uses a 1/4' 9000# rated low stretch (static) rope.
• If 2 persons are on the rope, then simply the load is figured at 600#. If you were to divide 9000# by 600#, the answer would
be 15.
• When rigging a raising system, the system will already (usually) be rigged in a lowering fashion. This is assuming that we had
to lower someone down to the victim, and now we are "switching" to a raise. With this assumption, the load is being carried by
the "Main" and being backed up by a "potential" belay called the "safety" line. The steps are:
• Lock off the brake rack on the "Main" and set the prusiks on the "Safety" line. The remaining steps are for the "main" line
only as the "safety" is already rigged for a raise.
• Using the "RPM" as a prompt, it is obvious that the "R" in the "RPM" is being used. We need to release the rack out of the
system. To do this we need to attach the tandem prusiks, which are pre-rigged and attached to the load releasing hitch, to the
load line, out ahead of the brake rack. Once this is finished, set the prusiks.
• Now unlock the brake rack and lower any "load" onto the prusiks. This should allow the rack to go slack and be allowed to be
removed from the rope. Let the brake rack hang on the King plate, as we may need it later.
• All of the "load" should now be on the tandem prusiks, so run the "main" rope through the prusik minding pulley that is
attached to the "RPM" and continue taking the rope down towards the "load". Attach another single triple wrap prussic to the
rope that is under load and clip a rescue carabiner and prusik minding pulley into this newly attached prusik.
• Run the slack rope through this pulley and have haulers ready for hauling.
• We have just created a 3:1 mechanical advantage.
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HAUL SYSTEMS
Pulley systems are rated as to their mechanical advantage and to whether they are
“simple” or “compound”.
In a simple pulley system, all of the traveling pulleys in the system move toward
the anchor at the same speed.
A compound system has two or more pulley systems acting on each other.
Static Kernmantle rope creates internal friction when bent due to the fibers in the
kern (core) rubbing against each other. The smaller the radius of the bend, the
more friction. It is best to use the largest diameter pulley available to reduce that
friction.
The ratio of rope diameter to pulley diameter will determine the loss in
mechanical advantage of a system according to the following table.
In a simple 3:1 system with 4” pulleys, the effective M.A. would be 2.85:1. If 2”
pulleys were used, the effective M.A. would be 2.57:1. In the 4:1 simple system
shown using one 4” pulley at the anchor and two 2” pulleys at the load, the
effective M.A. would onlyPbe 3.41:1.
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Simple Haul Systems
2 to 1
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Simple Haul Systems
3 to 1
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Simple Haul Systems
4 to 1 block & tackle
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Compound Haul Systems
6 to 1
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Compound Haul Systems
9 to 1
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HAUL SYSTEMS
The number of pulleys + one gives the mechanical advantage in a simple system. If
the end of the rope is tied to the load, the number will be odd. These are both
“simple” systems.
4:1
Haul
system
Two
Pulleys
The end of the rope is Two pulleys moving
Tied to the load so the With the load, end of
M.A. is an odd number The rope is tied to the
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Anchor makes it an
HAUL SYSTEMS
In a simple system with the end of the rope
at the anchor, each pulley that moves with
the load adds 2 to the M.A. therefore, this
system is a 6:1.
Factoring in the friction loss with 4” pulleys,
the effective M.A. would be 5.3.
If 2” pulleys were used, that would drop to
4.15:1.
The drawback to this method of achieving
pulling strength is the amount of rope it
takes. In this example, a 300 foot rope
would only give a 50 foot reach.
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HAUL SYSTEMS
In the simple 3:1 system on the left, a 300 foot rope would have a reach of 100
feet. The system on the right, is also a 3:1 and is called a Z-rig because if viewed on
its side, the rope forms the letter Z. The advantage to this configuration is
maximizing the use of rope. A 300 foot rope could obtain a reach of 260 feet,
although the prusiks on the load line would have to be reset every 10 feet of pull
on the load line.
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COMPOUND AND COMPLEX SYSTEMS
On the left, a 2:1 system pulling on a 3:1 system becomes a compound 6:1 system
In the center, a 3:1 system pulling on a 3:1 system becomes a compound 9:1 system.
On the right, connecting the upper right pulley to the rope of the left pulley with a
prusik, it becomes a complex 11:1 system.
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LOWERING TO HAUL TRANSITION
After lowering the rescue team to the patient, the haul team needs to convert their
rigging from lowering to hauling as quickly as possible so as to not delay the rescue
operation. This can be done without removing load from the rope.
• After lowering, put a pulley on the main line.
• Attach that pulley to the load releasing hitch.
• Install two prusiks from the load releasing hitch to the main line.
• Let those prusiks take the load from the ladder rack.
• Remove the rope from the ladder rack and add a second pulley.
• Attach the second pulley to the main line with prusiks.
• You now have a 3:1 simple haul system. (Z-Rig)
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PASSING A KNOT
Often two ropes will be joined together and when the knot reaches a pulley, there has to
be a means to pass the knot around it. Using the 4:1 piggyback system, connect to the
haul line using 2 triple-wrap Prusic cords. Pull the haul line with the piggyback far
enough that the knot can be passed around the pulley, then tie off the piggyback.
Remove the main line Prusics, split the pulley and move the knot to the other side.
When the pulley is securely attached and safety checked, begin hauling with the main
system until the Prusic cords can be removed from the piggyback system.
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SELECTING A HAUL SYSTEM
The illustration demonstrates the principal of an inclined plane. The angle is 30
degrees, which is the maximum for low angle rescue. A ball is placed on a slope and
the forces acting on it are described in the illustration.
F=W x h Where F = force to pull
l W = weight of object
h = height of slope
= length of slope
On a 30 degree slope, the length of the slope is twice the height itlrises
Force needed to
keep the ball from
rolling down the
hill=150#
Gravity pulls the ball down the slope
with a force of 150#
Force against
Force of The incline
Gravity=300#
A rule of thumb is to assume each rescuer weighs 300 pounds along with a victim
of the same weight. 3 rescuers on a litter, would be a total of 1200 pounds. It
would take a pull of 600 pounds to pull them up the slope. Using a 15:1 safety
factor for the rope, 15 X 600 = 9000 pounds, the rated 5/8 inch rope strength.
Each haul team person is rated to pull 60 pounds so it would take 10 people to
haul the load up the slope. Using a 3:1 Z-rig would allow 4 people to haul the
load. (600# / 3 = 200#, 200# / 60# per person = 3.3) By putting another 2 pulleys
in the haul system to create a compound 9:1 mechanical advantage, 2 people
could haul the load, although more slowly because it takes more time to reset
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RIGGING A LITTER
Litter with webbing and straps in place Patient on backboard laid in litter with
webbing harness on his legs
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SECURING THE PATIENT
The orange webbing secures the patient Lacing the black webbing secures the
and backboard so that they cannot slide patient to the litter
down the litter
The last step will be to fasten the
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SECURING FINISHED
Crossing the seat belts and fastening
them completes the packaging of the
patient.
The wide blue straps will attach to
the haul system. The rescuers will
attach their harnesses to the litter
with other straps
Note the footrest at the bottom of
the litter
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Basket Lowers
• Used when a victim is injured or unwilling
to perform a pick-off
• Requires teamwork and practice
• Victim needs to be packaged
• Lowering device should be a “general use”
brake bar rack for any two person load
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Basket Lowers
Safety factors
• Higher weight loads and complexities
• System safety checks
• 3 person checks (1 being the Safety Officer)
• More people involved
basket tenders, edge tenders, brake operators, belayer,
team leader, haul captain, safety officer
Position of basket for lower
• Horizontal
• Vertical
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Basket Lowers
Single line lower with a belay
• One main line, one belay line for litter
• One litter tender
• Advantage: simpler rope work and brake
management
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Basket Lowers
Tag lines - preferred over tenders
To position litter in a confined space
Prevent snagging on overhangs
Holds litter away from the wall
Stops spinning in free-hanging operations
Helps get the litter over the edge
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Anchor Points
• Types:
– Single point
• Tensionless hitch
• Wrap 3 - Pull 2
• Figure eight follow through
• Commercial straps
• Never use a girth hitch
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Anchor points
– Multiple points
Load sharing
Load distributing
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Belays
Options
--Prusik --Figure 8
--Bar Rack --Munter hitch
--540 Belay -- Gibbs
(Two person) (One person)
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Basket Lowers
Double line lower
• May simplify rigging
• Makes using a second tender easier
• Beneficial when it’s necessary to negotiate litter through
obstacles or confined spaces
• Allows easy changeover from horizontal to vertical
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Basket Lowers
Attaching basket to litter
Two-point bridles
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Fall Protection
Slips and Falls
• Always wipe up spills
• Keep walkways uncluttered
• Keep wires and cords out of walkways (or
cover them)
• Ensure area rugs are secured
• Mark wet or hazardous walkway areas with a
“Caution” sign
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We are coming for you Hold ON!
• The last point that we want to cover in the area of Fall
Protection may not be as “sexy” as rappelling down the
face of a building; however, it is certainly no less
important - and that is the need to prevent slips, trips,
and falls in the office/ workplace environment. The
best way to reduce or eliminate your general liability or
worker’s compensation claims for these types of
hazards, is to foster a good, safety-conscious attitude in
the work place. A lot of accidents can be prevented, if
everyone in the workplace is aware of the potential
hazards, and takes the appropriate steps to mitigate
them.
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