Chainsaw Safety you
need to buck up and
pay attention
{ Over 40,000 people are injured by chain saws every year
You could be the next one
40,000 plus you equals=
40,001 or is it just 40,000?
Sound advise Bubba
Get the dealer to demonstrate how to use the saw. Read the manual, learn all you can
before using the saw – it’s a potential killer.
Wear snug-fitting protective equipment. That includes goggles, face and head mask,
gloves, boots, ear protection, and heavy-duty clothing. Wear the equipment properly.
Carefully check the area for loose bark, broken limbs, or other damage before trees are
felled or removed.
Cut safely; keep both hands on the handles. Keep the handles dry, clean and free of oil or
fuel. Keep your eye on the blade and what you are cutting. Cut with the lower edge of the
saw blade whenever possible. Cutting with the tip of the saw is inviting injury. Let the
chainsaw do the work. Don’t try to force the saw.
Do not overreach or cut above shoulder height. It is very difficult to control the saw in
awkward positions.
Do not operate a chainsaw in a tree or from a ladder unless you have been specifically
trained and are equipped to do so.
When cutting a spring pole or other tree under stress, permit no one but the feller to be
closer than two tree lengths when the stress is released
Do not operate a chainsaw when tired, if you have been drinking alcohol, or if you have
been taking prescription medication or non-prescription drugs.
Do not smoke while refueling your saw. Move the chainsaw at least 10 feet away from the
fueling point before starting the engine. Use gasoline powered chainsaws only in well
ventilated areas
Sharpen the saw regularly.
Look for anti-kick nose guards, quick-stop brakes, and wraparound hand guards on any
saw you use. Kickback accounts for almost a third of chain saw accidents.
Don’t wear yourself out. Stay alert. Take frequent breaks.
Statistics, cont.
The two most
common places for
injuries are the
front left thigh and
the back of the left
hand.
Statistics from U.S Consumer Product
Safety Commission, 1999
Four Steps to Prevention
Are you
horsing
around
I really do love people who say done that got the tee
shirt – then what are you doing here?
Personal Protective Equipment for Logging
Protection for your:
• Head
• Eyes
• Ears
• Legs
Head protection is required whenever there in
a danger of being hit in the head from flying or
propelled objects or falling objects or materials.
In other words, any time you are in the woods
unless you are protected by FOPS, cabs, or
canopies that meet DOSH requirements.
These two
need hardhats
“serviceable condition”
Metal hard hats are not serviceable if:
- There are dents in 3 ribs or more
- The hat is severely dented, then pounded back out.
- There are holes drilled in the hat
- The suspension is bad, or
- If anything has compromised the structural integrity of the
hat.
The owner drilled holes in this old
6-point hat and attached a 4-point
liner with aluminum pop rivets,
rendering it unserviceable.
Evidence of UV Deterioration
Plastic hats are unserviceable if:
There are visible cracks,
There is discoloration due to
ultraviolet light (sun light)
As it comes from the store If squeezing the sides of hardhat
causes a popping sound
(indicates plastic is breaking down –
doesn’t have resiliency)
The date stamp shows the hat is
past the serviceable life
recommended by manufacturer.
After too many UV rays
Your Eyes
What can be more precious than your sight?
What if you could no longer see these?
There are 300 – 500 eye injuries among loggers each year in Washington State
Eye Protection is needed when
using:
- Chainsaw
- Metal cut-off saw
- Line cutter
- Grinder
- Compressed air
Or, whenever there is a potential for
eye injury from falling or flying objects.
Types of Eye Protection
Safety glasses must meet ANSI Z87.1
Standards for impact resistance
(indicated somewhere on the glasses)
Safety Glasses
Effects of Noise Exposure
Hearing loss from noise exposure is
usually not noticed because it is so
gradual.
Usually a person loses the ability to
hear higher pitches first.
Often the first noticeable effect is
difficulty in hearing speech.
Some people can develop permanent
tinnitus (ringing in the ears) when
exposed to excessive noise.
Effects of Noise Exposure
The damage from exposure to noise
occurs in the inner ear.
There are tiny hair cells in this part of the
ear that are flattened out when exposed
to noise.
If the exposure is short, the hair cells raise
back up. If the exposure is long or
extremely loud, the hair cells don’t
recover and hearing ability is reduced.
When all the hair cells are damaged,
complete deafness occurs.
People who say they are “used to
the noise” have usually already lost some
of their hearing.
Damage occurs in this part of the ear
Types of Hearing Protection
The DOSH noise regulations require that employees have at
least two types of hearing protection to choose from.
There are three types of hearing protection – ear muffs, earplugs
and ear caps.
Ear muffs and earplugs provide about equal protection, ear caps
somewhat less.
earplugs ear caps
earmuffs
Types of Hearing Protectors
All hearing protectors are designed to
reduce the intensity (loudness) of noise
to the inner ear.
They work much better than wads of
cotton or bits of cloth stuffed in the ear.
The three types have advantages and
disadvantages and people vary on which
they prefer to use.
Cotton doesn’t work!!
Ear Plugs
Earplugs are made of foam,
rubber or plastic and are
either one-size-fits-all or in
sizes small, medium and large.
Some are disposable, some
are reusable.
They are lightweight, and
require no maintenance.
They are inserted into the ear
canal.
Some earplugs have little “handles” for use in dirty environments.
Inserting Foam Earplugs
Foam type earplugs are one-size-fits-all and must be inserted
properly into the ear.
Roll earplug into small
cylinder first, then insert in
ear.
The technique for inserting earplugs is to first, roll the earplug into a small
cylinder, pull the ear up and back, this opens the ear canal. Push the ear
plug into the ear canal and hold there for a few seconds until it expands and
fills the ear canal. This will provide the tightest fit and greatest protection.
Inserting Foam Earplugs
Earplug incorrectly Earplug correctly inserted
inserted
The left picture shows plugs only partially inserted into
the ear canal – a common mistake.
Facts About Earcaps
They don’t have same noise
reduction as earplugs or ear
muffs because they don’t
penetrate the ear canal and the
seal is not as tight as earplugs
More expensive than earplugs
and replaceable tips are not as
readily available
People tend to use when dirty
like the ones in the photo
Not the best choice for the
logging environment
Earmuffs
Some muffs are attached to hardhats or
goggles and are somewhat less
protective than stand alone earmuffs.
Some high-tech muffs can filter out
certain frequencies or have radios inside
for communication in high noise areas.
Earplugs can be worn under
earmuffs for really loud noise levels
Hearing Protection – when Is
it required?
DOSH regulations specify when hearing protection is
required depending on measured noise levels. However,
a good rule of thumb is that hearing protection should be
used if you have to shout at someone standing 3 feet
away from you to be heard over the noise.
The two most frequent problems L&I encounters are
people not wearing the hearing protection when it is
required or not wearing it correctly.
Leg Protection .... Why It’s Needed
Recent data released from the Bureau of Labor Statistics:
Average chainsaw cut = 110 stitches
Medical Costs = $350 million a year (nationally)
Leg Protection is required any time an employee operate
a chainsaw.
If you’re running a saw, you need to have leg protection, unless you’re working in a
tree and supported by belt and spurs. It must be made of cut resistant material that
covers the full length of the leg to the top of the boot. Inserts, chaps or cut resistant
pants are all acceptable.
When Do You Need To Replace Your Chaps?
Nicks or small cuts in the outside
material aren’t an issue, but once the
protective material has been cut it is time
to replace them. THEY’VE DONE
THEIR JOB.
These chaps are unserviceable
Keep the chain saw handle clean and
dry.
Make sure that the handle is free from
oil or fuel.
Keep your chain saw properly
maintained.
Follow the manufacturer's suggestions
When
for sharpening and maintaining the
equipment.
Never use a chain saw to cut anything
using a
other than wood!!!
Slide 33: How Can You Eliminate Some
Hazards in the Area?
chain saw
Clear loose debris from the area.
Remove combustible materials. never
Look for broken or dead limbs in the
tree to be felled.
Assure that there are no power lines
adopt this
nearby.
Make sure you have an escape route.
Be aware of where others are in relation
position
to what you are cutting. This includes
people, houses, automobiles, etc.
Parts
of a
Chain Saw
Look for these safety features
Spark arrestor on
gasoline models
Trigger or throttle
lockout
Chain catcher
Low kickback saw chain Bumper spikes
Hand guard
Safety tip
Chain brake
Vibration reduction system
How to Carry a Chain Saw
The engine should be
shut off.
The chain brake should
be engaged.
The scabbard is covering
the guide bar to prevent
cuts.
The chain saw is carried
backward.
The muffler is carried
away from the body to
prevent burns.
Correct
Starting
1. Hold the chain saw firmly in
place.
2. Remove all loose debris and 5. Depress the throttle for
make sure the guide bar is
not touching anything. one second with the
right hand.
3. Make sure the chain brake is
engaged.
6. The chain should not
4. Grip the front handle with creep forward because
left hand.
the brake is engaged.
How to Hold a Chain Saw
1. Wrap your thumbs firmly
around the handles.
2. The right hand should be
firmly on the rear
handle, so that the
operator can reach the
throttle latch and the
stop switch.
Quick Fact: Eighty percent of chain saw injuries
are to the legs and hands.
Limbing and Bucking
Limbing is removing branches from fallen
tree.
Bucking is cutting a log into sections.
Felling Procedures
Observe the top (widowmakers, heavy branches, wind) .
Establish the lay.
Check for snags.
Swamp-out the base.
Size up (lean, sounding, conks).
Determine an escape route.
Walk out the lay.
Re-examine the escape route.
Face the tree.
Check the gunning.
Warning.
Backcut.
Escape the stump.
Analyze the operation.
Before you drop that tree
think
Every tree-felling event presents hazards that should be identified before
work is started. The first thing you must do after the pre-job briefing to
ensure the work will be completed without injury or property damage is to
inspect the tree and work area.
Check the trunk, leaders, and branches for decay, rot, cavities, splits, and
tension wood that would require special handling.
Check the height of the tree, the lean, and the distribution of branches in
the crown. It might be necessary to top and/or remove some branches to
make the tree fall in the desired direction without striking other trees or
conductors in or near the felling area. CAUTION: Felling tree into tree is
very hazardous. Avoid!
Check conditions at the base of the tree. Brush, limbs, and other debris that
might hinder a quick escape from the tree should be removed. Extra caution
must be taken if the work surface at the base of the tree is slippery because of
ice, snow, or muddy conditions.
Visually check for nails and other foreign objects that might be embedded
in the trunk where felling cuts will be made.
Check for shallow or exposed roots in high-wind conditions. Special or extra
rigging might be required to prevent the tree from falling in the wrong
direction.
Check for dead trees and overhead dead limbs in the felling area that could
break and fall if struck by the tree being felled.
Check for vines that could interfere with normal tree felling.
Check for tree stumps, large rocks, and uneven terrain that might cause the
tree to roll or bounce unexpectedly when it strikes the ground.
Felling 101: Types of Cuts
Overhead
hazards?
Escape
Route?
Bucking on
downhill side?
Saw motor
above
shoulders?
Escape
Route?
Tripping
hazards; work
area not
cleared?
Overhead
hazards?
In path of
spring Area not
pole? cleared?
Improper
spring pole
technique?
Blocked
Limbing escape
downhill route?
from log?
Overhead
hazards? Area not
cleared?
Slide 4
Bar may
not be
visible?
Slide 5
Unstable
footing?
Blocked Tripping
escape hazard?
route?
PPE, no
hardhat
and
gloves?
Tripping
hazard, area
not cleared?
Bucking on
downhill side
of log?
Escape
route not
cleared?
Overhead
hazards?
Area not
cleared?
Slide 8
Escape
route not
cleared?
Slide 7
Inattention?
Risk of
barberchair? People
within 2-1/2
tree lengths?
No
undercut?
Overhead
hazards
likely?
Saw motor
above
Hearing
shoulders?
protection?
Area not
cleared?
Tip /
kickback?
Area not
cleared?
Tip /
kickback?
Bar may not
be visible?
Overhead
hazards?
Powerhead
may be getting
higher than
shoulders?
Area not
cleared?
Health
hazards
of
cigarette
smoke?
Smoking
within 50 ft.
of fueling
area?
Overhead
hazards?
No clear
escape
route?
Area not
cleared?
Tip /
Overhead kickback
hazards? potential?
Saw motor
above
shoulders?
Area not
cleared/escape
routes?
Neither
person is Butt will
watching for most likely
overhead fly up when
hazards? bole lands on
log?
Employee
in danger
zone, i.e.,
kickback
path?
Poor control
of running
saw? No
wedges?
Possible
dutchman?
Possible
overhead
hazards?
Saw tip not
visible?
Area not
No cleared?
escape
routes?
People within
2-1/2 tree
lengths? Inattention
?
Equipment within
2-1/2 tree
Saw motors
lengths?
prevent the
effective
communication
of shouts?
Inattention
Saw motors ?
prevent the
effective
communication
of shouts?
People
within 2-1/2
tree lengths?
Bucking
downhill?
Blocked
escape route?
Make a Correct Cut
The Felling Cut is made
A Felling Notch does last. It occurs on the
not exceed 20 percent of opposite side of the tree
the tree’s diameter at from the felling notch,
breast height. This cut but it does not go all the
is made first. way through the tree.
The notch and the cut
The Hinge is the 10 are staggered, so they
percent that is left uncut don’t meet.
for the operator’s safety.
Types of Injuries
Setback
Kickback Crown Shatter
Vibration Syndrome Barber Chair
Widowmaker Moving Tree
Entanglement Springpole
Stump Jump
Quick Fact: Kickback is the single greatest
cause of injury to chain saw users.
What is Kickback?
Kickback is caused by a
spinning chain coming
in contact with
resistance.
It causes the chain saw
to “kick back” toward
your face.
It is very common and
can cause serious injury.
How can Kickback be
Prevented?
NEVER cut with the tip of the chain saw!
Lock your front elbow.
Be careful not to cut through nails or knots in
the wood.
Stand to the side.
Use a low kickback chain.
Use a chain brake.
Vibration Syndrome
Vibration syndrome causes frequent users of
chain saws to get white knuckles and a loss of
feeling in their fingers from the vibrations of
the chain saw.
It is not very common presently, due to better
working conditions and safer chain saws.
Widowmaker
Widowmaker is caused by
loose branches falling from
the tree due to vibrations
from the chain saw.
You can prevent a
widowmaker injury
ALWAYS WEAR A HARDHAT!!!!
Remember that a branch falling on you from less than 2
inches away can have enough force to kill you.
Entanglement
Trees that are being cut
down may sometimes
drag or snap other trees.
Free the branches of the
tree you are cutting
before starting to cut to
prevent this from
occurring.
Stump Jump
This is caused by the
hinge being cut or
breaking when the tree
is falling.
The tree can jump or
roll, or hit other trees in
any direction.
Have an Escape Plan…
and Use it!
1. Plan an escape route to prevent injuries
due to stump jump.
2. When the tree begins to move, turn off
the chain saw and escape.
What Is
Setback?
You can use wedges to
Sometimes a tree may make sure the tree will
tilt backward and clamp fall over in the right
onto the bar of the saw. direction.
If the hinge breaks, then You can tie a cable or
the tree can fall rope in the top of the
backward. tree and apply steady
pressure.
Crown Shatter
This occurs when the crown of
the tree that has been felled or a
nearby tree snaps or shatters.
This causes hurling branches
and can cause serious injury or
death.
Notice three ways to be struck.
Barber Chair
When the backcut has
been made, if the tree
leans too far, the butt of
the tree can kick
backward.
This happens much Never stand in back of
faster than a normal the tree as you are
reaction time. cutting.
Seek professional help.
Moving Tree
A rolling or moving tree
can catch your leg or
crush you.
This can occur when
limbs or restraints are
removed.
Prevent this by staying
uphill from a tree on a
slope.
Springpole
A tree can become
arched as it is felled or
if another tree falls on
it. When cut, it can
violently strike out at
anything in its path.
Always stay inside the
“bow” of a springpole.
Escaping From Danger
Always plan an escape route that is a path at a
45-degree angle away from the line of the
tree’s fall.
Preventing Injuries
Personal protective
equipment (PPE) MUST
be worn at all times.
This can greatly reduce
injuries and prevent
death from chain saw
injuries.
Keep both hands on the
chain saw handles.
Safety Tips
Keep the chain saw handle clean and dry.
Make sure that the handle is free from oil or fuel.
Keep your chain saw properly maintained.
Follow the manufacturer’s suggestions for sharpening
and maintaining the equipment.
Never use a chain saw to cut anything other than
wood!!!
Clear loose debris Make sure you have
from the area. an escape route.
Be aware of where
Remove combustible
materials. others are in relation
to what you are
Look for broken or cutting. This
dead limbs in the tree includes people,
to be felled. houses,
Assure that there are automobiles, etc.
no power lines nearby.
How Can You Eliminate Some
Hazards in the Area?
Any time that a situation
requires more skills than
you have.
If a tree has a larger
diameter than the length of
the guide bar.
If the tree is dead, hollow,
split, or rotten.
If there isn't enough room
to safely fell the tree or if
there is no clear escape
route.
If there are any other
obstacles to the tree
How safe is my
surroundings
Field Maintenance Tool Kit
Scrench—A combination screwdriver and
wrench designed for chain saw maintenance
Small screwdriver—For carburetor adjustments
Plastic wedges
Round file—Use the appropriate diameter
Flat mill bastard file—For filing the rakers
Grease—For lubricating the bearing and sprocket
tip guide bars
Star wrench—For various screws and bolts on
your saw
Extra spark plug—Replace if pitted or fouled
Extra starter cord—Carry approximate length
needed
Extra chain—Use appropriate size, drivers, and
gauge of chain
Extra parts—Needle cage bearing, washer, E-
clips, sprocket, bar nuts
Air filter—Replace when badly soiled
Keep a thank god kit
Guide Bar and Chain Lubrication
Be sure there is bar oil in the oil reservoir. The oil reservoir should be
filled at every refueling. Bar oil and fuel should be burned at
approximately the same rate.
If there is a large amount of oil left in reservoir, oil slots may be plugged
or adjusted too lean. Check and clean the engine oil slots and oiling
grooves in the guide bar.
To check for proper bar and chain oiling, hold the bar tip a few feet away
from a piece of wood or log and observe the amount of oil that is thrown
off.
Daily Saw Maintenance
Check the throttle trigger for smooth operation. Be sure the trigger cannot
be pulled until the throttle trigger lockout is depressed.
Clean the chain brake, and check that it engages and disengages properly.
Clean or replace the air filter as necessary. Check for damage and holes.
Always reduce the friction
Fueling
Shut off the saw, and allow it to cool for a few minutes before fueling.
Clear an area on the ground for the saw to be positioned accordingly.
Wipe dirt and wood chips off of the fuel tank cap and surrounding
areas.
Slowly loosen the cap, allowing any built-up pressure to escape.
Use an approved safety fuel container with a funnel or spout to help
avoid spillage.
After fueling, replace the fuel cap, making sure the threads are not
crossed and the cap is placed on securely.
While the saw is cool and idle for fueling, remember these few
maintenance points.
Always fill the chain oil reservoir. Wipe off the reservoir cap to prevent
contamination.
Always check chain tension.
Always clean the air filter.
No Fire Please
Safety Watch-Outs
NEVER work alone.
Make sure that all crew members have the appropriate personal
protective equipment for their assignment.
Ensure that all gear and equipment is operationally safe and
functional.
Establish a safe work plan.
Supervise and communicate to crew members.
Utilize ropes, cables, and pulleys at every opportunity.
Establish escape routes.
Always use spotters.
Be mindful of the danger zone.
Monitor everyone (including yourself) for fatigue.
Communicate, communicate, communicate!
For Gods sakes how many
times have you said this
Always Remember to Be
Careful!
Pay attention to your surroundings, wear the correct clothing,
and call a professional when you are unsure of your ability to
perform the task safely. So are you ready to take my chainsaw
course now?