Instructions for building an Eliminator 4-player cabinet
- v1.0 Initial Release Version
This document contains the instructions to build the Eliminator 4-player cabinet as depicted in the
Google Sketchup model. At the end of the document, there is additional information if you have the
rest of the parts for an Eliminator 4-player.
To build the cabinet, you'll need the following:
Google Sketchup model for the particular cabinet you are going to build (with laminate or
without) as reference. The model will need to be constantly referenced for quantity and
location for each of the instructions below.
The cabinet pieces cut per the Google Sketchup model. In some cases, instructions have been
provided on how to make the pieces. All other pieces are assumed to be made from templates
or trivial enough to create by referencing the Google Sketchup model.
If you don't have the custom metal parts, you'll have to play it by ear when you get to
instructions that refer to them.
if using laminate, take the thickness into account when doing t-slot routing
when placing blocking for walls, take into account the spacing will be dependent on whether
you used laminated walls or 3/4” walls.
Tools you'll need to build the cabinet
Router and router table
◦ 1/2” trim bit with top bearing
◦ 1/4” trim bit with bottom bearing
◦ t-slot bit
◦ 1/2” plunge bit
◦ 1/4” plunge bit
◦ bevel bit for making 45 degree cut
◦ 5/16” bit
◦ 1/4” bit
◦ 1 1/2” wood bit
◦ 3/4” wood bit
◦ 11/32” wood bit (or approximate)
◦ 3/16” wood bit
◦ 21/64” wood bit
Black Satin spray paint (Krylon) and black touchup paint/brush
Pneumatic staplers that can shoot the following lengths
◦ 1 1/2” leg staples (1/4” crown)
◦ 2” leg staples (1/2” crown or other)
◦ 5/8” leg, 1” crown
◦ a few 4” C clamps or similar small clamps
◦ a least four 48” clamps or similar (36” minimum) large clamps
You'll need to either have or make the following templates:
A: Monitor Assembly template
B: Component Assembly template
◦ reuse the large hole for interior base
C: Top corner template
D: Blue/Green Coin door/speaker template
◦ reuse coin door hole for access door and red side
E: Yellow/Red control panel side template
F: Green/Blue control panel side template
G: template for making pin track on left side pieces
H: template for making pin track on right side pieces
I: template for placing angled blocking on cp sides
J: 1 1/2” spacer
K: 2” spacer
L: 1/4” spacer
M: 3/16” spacer
N: 4” spacer
1. Control panel walls (8)
a) Cut 8” x 8” squares (rough cut)
b) Route one corner of four using templates E (yellow/red) and one corner of four using
template F (blue/green)
c) Trim opposite corner 90 degrees square to size of 7 9/16” x 6 3/4”. For blue/green sides,
don't cut rear angle cut yet!
d) Cut t-molding slot along front and top of curved corner using router table and t-slot bit
e) Mark one side as the pin track side (see model)
f) Route two yellow/red pair's pin tracks using templates G using plunge bit 1/4”. Route until
you reach target depth of 1/2”
g) Route two blue/green pair's pin tracks using template H using plunge bit 1/4”. Route until
you reach target depth of 1/2”
h) Cut angled back to blue/green cp sides (see model for dimensions)
i) Optional: apply laminate to other side, trim with router table and 1/4” trim bit.
j) Paint one side (refer to model which sides) and routed edge black and let dry
k) Using a flat surface with a 90 degree wall, use K spacer to place bottom wood blocking on
all CP pieces. Glue and staple (1 1/2”) flush with bottom edge of board.
l) Using a flat surface with a 90 degree wall, use L spacer to place back edge blocking on red
and yellow CP pieces, but do not glue and staple yet. Use the metal brackets to mark where
the top and bottom bolt holes should go.
m) Glue and staple (1 1/2”) back edge blocking flush with back edge, making sure staples avoid
where the marked holes will go.
n) Using a 1/4” bit, drill top and bottom bolt holes
o) Using a 1/4” bit, drill extra hole for yellow right side
p) Using 21/64” bit, countersink woodgrain side hole so carriage bolt neck will fit in hole (test
q) Using a flat surface with a 90 degree wall, use metal brackets, N spacer, and red/yellow
sides to mark where hole in blue/green side will go.
r) Using a 5/16” bit, drill hole in blue/green side for t-nut. Install t-nut and hold with screw.
s) Using a bevel bit, remove 1/8” for 2 3/4” starting from the back top of the non-black side of
green/blue sides. This is the bevel edge for monitor retention bracket on two blue and two
green walls (see model). Paint newly routed area black with touch-up paint and brush.
2. Front CP walls (4)
a) Optional: apply laminate and trim with router table and 1/4” trim bit
b) T-slot route top of board with router table and t-slot bit
c) Paint routed top of board
d) Using flat surface and 90 degree wall, glue, place and staple (1 1/2”) blocking flush with
bottom edge of board
e) Glue three hardboard pieces to back of front wood (two offset at least 1” from the edges,
one in the middle)
3. Top Assembly
a) Cut top to dimensions in model, including fan hole and monitor hole
b) Route four corners with template C
c) Route outer edge with t-slot using router
d) Paint outer edge black; a little top over-spray (not more than 1”) is ok
e) Mark top with guidelines 4” on long sides, 7 9/16” in on short sides
f) Clamp a square block at the guidelines to use as a guide for the cp sides.
g) Start with yellow cp side with extra hole on the lower right corner opposite the fan hole (see
model). Glue, place and staple (1 1/2”) on guideline with front flush with edge.
h) Making sure both sides are straight vertically, glue, place, and staple (1 1/2”) green side on
guideline perpendicular to the yellow cp side, with front flush with edge.
i) Making sure both sides are straight vertically, staple (1 1/2”) through green side to wood
blocking on yellow wall.
j) Do the same to the next corner, but fit the green front CP pieces before stapling to make
sure proper spacing is obtained. If using 3/4”, there maybe extra space for the front CP
piece (1/16” on each side of front cp piece). For laminate, the CP spacing will be tight.
Have a control panel nearby to test spacing is adequate; make sure cp front piece fits loosely
between cp walls. When happy with spacing, glue and staple (1 1/2”) remaining green wall
and front CP piece. Continue this process around the top assembly placing walls and front
k) Paint one side of eight 4” blocking pieces black.
l) Using template I, place these blocking pieces, black side up. Glue and staple (1 1/2”).
m) Trim a rectangular sheet of 4 1/2” x 8” black laminate so it fits in each corner of cp walls. It
should be flush against the walls, and overhang the rounded top assembly corner.
n) Glue laminate down
o) Turn over top assembly and route laminate flush with rounded corners using the 1/2” trim
bit. Do not route too close to cp walls! Stop about 1/4” short on each end and use a wood or
laminate file to remove remaining laminate.
p) Install t-molding around outer top edge
q) Install t-molding on front cp walls
r) Install t-molding on cp side walls. Blue/Green cp t-molding only goes to the interior edge
(not exterior edge) of the yellow/red cp walls, forming a nice L-shape with the yellow/red
cp t-molding (see model).
4. Interior bottom
a) Route large hole into interior bottom using template B and 1/2” trim bit
b) Drill hole with 5/16” bit and install t-nut into interior bottom, stapling it in place from the
bottom with two 1” crown staples, 5/8” leg.
c) Drill hole with 1 1/2” wood bit into interior bottom
d) Paint narrow ends of interior bottom black
e) Paint one side of air intake top blocking black
f) Glue and staple (1 1/2”) air intake top blocking to bottom of interior bottom, centered and
flush with narrow ends (see model)
5. Cabinet bottom (Note: cabinet bottom uses non-standard leg levelers. If you want to use
standard leg levelers, adjust holes and t-nuts accordingly)
a) Cut t-molding slot in all sides of plywood base
b) Paint edges black. Over-spray (~1”) of top is ok.
c) Drill two large holes into plywood base using 1 1/2” wood bit (see model)
d) Drill t-nut holes into plywood base using 5/16” bit and install t-nuts. Fasten each t-nut in
place with two 1” crown staples, 5/8” leg
e) Paint one side of air intake bottom blocking black
f) Glue and staple (1 1/2”) blocking to plywood base. Using M spacer and flat 90 degree wall,
install blocking flush and centered along narrow side, with black side of blocking facing
6. Blue/Green sides
a) Route coin door holes and speaker holes using template D on green and blue walls using
1/2” trim bit
b) Green side only: route lock cam slots using plunge router with 1/2” plunge bit. To do this,
set your router where you want to start. Then clamp a fence flush with the router parallel
with the wall edge. Then set K spacer on the side of the router that it will travel in to cut the
slot. Clamp a block on the opposite side of the spacer. Remove the K spacer. Turn on
router, plunge to 1/4” depth, and slide router to the block. Repeat at an additional 1/4”
depth to obtain the target depth of 1/2”. Repeat for second slot.
c) Optional: laminate walls and trim laminate using 1/4” trim bit
d) Using actual coin door as template, mark holes for coin door carriage bolts. Drill holes
using 15/64” bit.
e) Using speaker grill as template, center speaker grill over speaker hole and mark holes for
screws. Drill holes using 3/16” bit.
f) Cut t-molding slot in left and right sides of blue and green walls
g) Paint interior side of walls and routed edges black
h) Paint both ends of bottom green/blue blocking black
i) Using flat surface and 90 degree wall, use M spacer to place bottom blocking flush and
centered with the bottom of the blue/green side (see model). Glue and staple (1 1/2”)
7. Red side
a) Route coin door hole on red side using template D's coin door hole. Hole should be
b) Optional: laminate wall and trim laminate using 1/4” trim bit
8. Cabinet assembly
a) Apply glue to bottom of green side and blocking
b) Using flat surface, place green side on routed edge (not the edge nearest the lock cam slots).
c) Apply glue to green side bottom and blocking.
d) Use large clamps to clamp green side bottom to cabinet bottom, making sure cabinet bottom
holes are oriented correctly.
e) Staple (1 1/2”) cabinet bottom to green blocking, placing staples 1 1/8” in from the edge of
the cabinet bottom, spaced every two to three inches.
f) Place interior bottom and red side where they would normally go and use them as spacers
for next wall.
g) Apply glue to bottom of blue side and blocking
h) Using interior bottom and red side as spacers, place blue side bottom edge against cabinet
bottom and clamp into place. Staple (1 1/2”) cabinet bottom to blue side blocking, placing
staples 1 1/8” in from the edge of cabinet bottom, spaced every two to three inches.
i) Remove interior bottom and red side. Sides should be stable now and properly spaced and
j) Stand up cabinet on its bottom. Apply glue to top of green and blue bottom blocking (it will
be stapled in place shortly).
k) Place interior bottom, but do not staple yet. Make sure orientation is correct.
l) Place red wall, making sure top is flush with other walls. Clamp the red wall in place,
clamping two across the red wall so sides are flush with red wall. Place another clamp
across the green wall, holding the red side flush with green edge. Place another clamp
across the blue wall, holding the red side flush with the blue edge.
m) Apply glue to back of red back wedge blocking and place at bottom of red wall with the
wedge resting on the interior bottom. Staple (1 1/2”) in place. Check to see that the clamps
held the red wall in place (if not, tighten, change position or add more clamps).
n) Apply glue to two congruent sides of both of the vertical red back blocking and place them
in the corners appropriately, resting on wedge blocking.
o) Alternating, put a staple (1 1/2”) in the side of the blocking firing into the side wall, then in
the front of the blocking firing into the red wall, going up ~1” for every alternating staple.
Make sure the clamps are holding the red wall in place as you go!
p) Push interior base bottom flush with the top of the blue and green bottom blocking front
edge if it moved, then staple (1 1/2”) the interior base to the green and blue bottom
q) Optional: if using 3/4 walls, add 1/16” laminate to red wall blocking (see model)
r) Apply glue to the back of the top red wall blocking and staple (1 1/2”) it flush with the top
of the red wall.
s) Apply glue to the back of the top green wall blocking and staple (1 1/2”) it flush with the
top of the green wall, up against the red wall blocking.
t) Apply glue to the back of the top blue wall blocking and staple (1 1/2”) it flush with the top
of the blue wall, up against the red wall blocking.
u) Optional: apply and trim laminate of top front blocking
v) Apply glue to ends of top green and blue blocking. Use clamp across front of cabinet to
clamp top front blocking in place, flush with top of blue and green top wall blocking. Place
four staples (1 1/2”) in each end of top front blocking.
w) Place the 1 1/2” square support beams flush with bottom of green and blue top blocking and
against the red wall. Make sure beams do not stick out past top front blocking. Trim if
needed. Glue and staple (2”) in place.
x) Using a flat surface and a 90 degree wall, place 4” blocking flush with plywood beam edge
(see model) and glue and staple (1 1/2”) blocking in place.
y) Add glue to blocking edge of plywood beam and add glue to top ends of beam at each end.
Place it flush against green side support beam, and staple (1 1/2”) it to bottom of red wall
top blocking and bottom of top front blocking (see model)
9. Access door
a) Cut door to dimensions in model
b) Using table saw blade adjusted to 11/16” height, remove 1/16” from one long side (see
c) Cut t-molding slot on top of access door
d) Cut coin door hole using template G
e) Drill two lock holes using 3/4” wood bit
f) Optional: laminate door and trim with 1/4” trim bit
g) For the edge next to the lock holes, trim the front edge as shown in the model using the
router table and the bevel bit for making 45 degree cuts (see model)
h) Install piano hinge on access door using seven 1” wood screws
i) Place door where it will go, resting door on interior base and mark top and interior corner of
j) Remove door and remove hinge from door
k) Installed hinge onto blue wall at marked location
l) Install door on cabinet
m) With the component assembly board installed, close the door. From the inside, mark a line
where the component assembly board would meet the door. Install the clip switch blocking
on that line.
10. Monitor box
a) Cut all holes in wall sides as appropriate (1 1/2” wood bit and 1/2” router bit as needed)
b) Cut 3/8” cross section from top sides with table saw (see model)
c) Place all monitor box walls into cabinet as test fit with notched edges facing the interior (see
model). Trim as appropriate.
d) Once happy with test fit, temporarily place top assembly on cabinet, making sure it is
evenly spaced around monitor box
e) Place metal brackets in position and mark holes from metal brackets onto monitor box walls
f) Mark walls indicating which color side they are for
g) Remove brackets, top assembly, and monitor box walls
h) Drill hole in center of marked holes in red and yellow monitor box sides using 5/16” bit
i) Install 5/16” t-nuts in back (notched side) of red and yellow monitor box sides and fasten
each in place with two 1” crown, 5/8” leg staples.
j) Apply glue to interior side of blue, red, green and yellow top blocking and install walls.
k) Staple (1 1/2”) walls red, front, green and blue top blocking.
l) Staple (1 1/2”) walls to each other using six staples along each corner edge.
m) Drill hole in center of 1 1/2” thick monitor blocking for red and yellow sides using 5/16”
n) Install 5/16” t-nut into thick monitor blocking and fasten each with two 1” crown, 5/8” leg
o) Test fit red and yellow monitor blocking. Trim as needed.
p) Glue and staple (2”) red and yellow monitor blocking 3 1/2” down from interior notched
edge (see model).
q) Test fit blue and green monitor blocking. Trim as needed.
r) Glue and staple (1 1/2”) blue and green monitor blocking 3 1/2” down from interior notched
edge (see model).
11. Component Assembly board
a) Cut board to size
b) Route to template B
c) Cut 45 degree off of non-notched end (see model)
d) Cut 3/4” component assembly blocking wood 45 degrees to leave 3/8” on top (see model)
e) Cut remaining wood at 45 degrees to leave 3/8” on bottom (see model)
f) Test fit component assembly blocking edge. Trim as needed.
g) Glue and nail blocking wood to end of non-notched end
12. Monitor assembly
a) Route plywood using template A
b) Drill two 1/2” holes for bolts that hold monitor assembly in place (see model)
c) Drill four holes for handles (5/16”)
At this point you should have a cabinet matching the Google Sketchup model. To complete the
Eliminator 4-player build, you'll need the following:
The parts from the parts list, including custom metal parts
Tools to install the parts
◦ ratchet set
To finish the cabinet, do the following
13. Bottom assembly
a) Install air intake grills. Trim appropriately with table router if necessary (do a test run with
scrap piece; you don't want to screw this up!)
b) Install leg levelers
14. Component assembly board
a) Install junction box
b) Install component assembly grounding assembly
c) Install xfrmers, ps, and boardset, attaching the grounding assembly as appropriate
d) Run the zip cord from the junction box to the xy xfrmer, and from the xy xfrmer to the I/o
e) Install the power wiring from the PS to the PCB
f) Install the component assembly board and fasten with bolts
15. Access door
a) Place Access door lock trim on edge of door, centered, and fasten with five 1” screws, black
b) Install lock plates
c) Install locks
d) Close door and mark where junction box interlock switch would meet blocking on door.
e) Install the clip switch as indicated by mark so the clip switch will activate the interlock
16. Red side
a) Install coin door
17. Blue/Green sides
a) Install speakers and speaker grills
18. Top Assembly
a) Place lefthand and righthand brackets
b) Install screws that go into red and yellow cp sides
c) Position top so it is evenly spaced
d) Install bracket bolts
e) Install bracket screws
19. Main cabinet
a) Remove component assembly
b) Install coin door in access door (yellow)
c) Install main ground assembly up to access door
d) Install component assembly
e) Complete the install of the main ground assembly, adding the component assembly
grounding strap, running them both to the yellow coin door
f) Install speaker wiring harness
g) Install main wiring harness
h) Install green/blue coin doors
20. Monitor assembly
a) Drop in monitor assembly and secure with bolts
b) Drop in bezel
c) Apply rubber seal around perimeter
d) Install glass
e) Place all four monitor retention brackets, spaced appropriately, around monitor
f) Mark hole location with punch
g) Remove monitor retention brackets
h) Countersink marked holes with 5/16” wood bit
i) Place all four monitor retention brackets and install using appropriate screws