University of King’s College School of Journalism January 22 — 28, 2010
Teens raise money for earthquake victims
Haitian-born student spearheads drive at Dartmouth High
James Whitehead as well.”
email@example.com Kwak said the teachers had a
coffee fund that was going to another
Tera Moussignac-Cimello is from charity but when they heard about
Haiti. what the students were doing they
So when the 16-year-old heard gave the money to them instead.
about the earthquake in her home After only two days of collecting,
country, she wanted to get involved. Monard said they had raised well
“It just really upset me and I felt over $200.
like I wanted to do something about The money will go to the
it,” she said. Humanitarian Coalition, a network
Now, students at Dartmouth High of NGOs like Oxfam, Care Canada
School are joining forces in friendly and Save the Children, focused
rivalry to raise money for earth- on fundraising for humanitarian
quake victims in Haiti. efforts around the world.
Moussignac-Cimello recruited The project is starting as students
her friend and fellow vice-president are preparing for provincial exams
of the Dartmouth High Cultural so for now, Moussignac-Cimello,
Awareness Group, Brianna Kwak, Kwak, and Vermeir will collect
16, to help her with a toonie drive at donations from the cafeteria.
their school to raise money. “Once exams are out of the way
Vice-President of Student Affairs we will be able to walk into classes
Ella Vermeir, 17, was going to start and see if we can drum up business
her own money drive when she that way,“ said Monard.
heard what Moussignac-Cimello Students and staff are using every
and Kwak were doing. available means to raise awareness
“I decided why not just combine about their campaign, including
the two?” she said. social networking.
Principal Eartha Monard said “A lot of people have been saying
Dartmouth High School focuses JAMES WHITEHEAD they have seen it on my Facebook
on a different charity every month, Ella Vermeir (left), Brianna Kwak and Tera Moussignac-Cimello have used social networking websites to call for donations. and it’s reminded them to bring
so it’s natural that students would money,” said Vermeir. “And some
come up with this idea on their own. Every day since Monday at Andrew High School to see which 12. Their goal is to bring in as much of my friends’ parents are sending
“The school’s big on having a big lunch-time, the girls set up a table school could raise more money by money as possible by Feb. 9 to give money in with their kids.”
social conscience,” she said, “and in the cafeteria with a large water the end of the week. them time to count it and send it in. The school has posted updates on
the fact that we have someone that’s jug and encourage students and Vermeir said Prince Andrew stu- “I just want to fill the jug.” Twitter and has a message on the
directly affected by it, that’s even teachers to toss in money. dents accepted the challenge and Monard said they have been front page of its website. It is also
more reason for us to pull together Kwak said the whole school is were excited to pitch in and raise getting a great response since they sending out emails and automated
and do what we can to help.” getting involved. some money. started on Monday. outgoing phone messages.
The earthquake hit Haiti on Jan. “More people have been helping “No matter who gets the most “We said toonies but we’ll take “We are hoping parents and
12, and was followed by a 6.1-mag- us every lunch,” she said. “We have money, it’s obviously going to be a whatever,” she said. “We’ve gotten community members will get on
nitude aftershock on Wednesday. a whole crew of people around the good thing,” she said. twenty-dollar bills, ten-dollar bills, board with us,” said Monard.
The earthquake has killed an esti- table.” Moussignac-Cimello said the five-dollar bills. I saw a roll of loo- “What’s really nice is to see
mated 200,000 people and injured Vermeir came up with the idea deadline to donate their funds and nies in there and someone said the two (student) groups working
250,000 more. to challenge Dartmouth’s Prince have the government match it is Feb. there was a roll of toonies in there together.
This week’s focus: Savour the city, pages 3 - 13
New Halifax market >> p. 3 Which beer is best? >> p. 10 Restaurant industry rebounds >> p. 11
2 neWs January 22 – 28, 2010
A thread of hope for Haitians
Jonathan Charlton on display. When she receives 20 started learning the craft about 25
firstname.lastname@example.org tickets, she draws a name and that years ago, during a 16-year-stay in
person wins the item. New Mexico.
One Halifax woman has decided All money raised goes towards “I like it because it’s very close
to raise money for Haiti relief, doing Doctors Without Borders’ relief to the earth,” she says. “The
what she does best – weaving and technology is very simple and
knitting. ancient, and it’s very relaxing and
Jennifer Wylie set up a stand at can make nice stuff.”
the Halifax Farmers’ Market on Just get out there and do “My favourite thing to make is
Saturday morning. There, she held something. silk scarves but they’re very labour-
a raffle for rugs, scarves and the odd Jennifer Wylie intensive and it’s very hard to sell
bench she made. Craftsperson them. Because they have to cost
“I was listening to the news on quite a lot, even if you only make five
the verge of tears, and I spoke to efforts in Haiti. bucks an hour or something, which
myself and said ‘oh, shut up and do By about 12:30 p.m., having been is the weaver’s kind of salary.”
something.’” there for six and a half hours and For Wylie, this effort is a way to
Her idea was put together on short running on little sleep, she had break out of the pessimism that she
notice – she had only thought of if raised about $500. She’ll be back thinks can discourage people from
the day before. One of her friends this Saturday, and she hopes to helping out.
helped make signs, and another receive donations from other craft- “Just get out there and do
loaned her his car. Staples office speople to add to her display. something.”
supplies printed the raffle tickets. Wylie has been weaving in
The raffle works by asking people Halifax for five years. Born in JONATHAN CHARLTON
to buy a $10 or $20 ticket for an item Massachusetts, the 55-year-old Jennifer Wylie at the Halifax Farmers’ Market on Saturday.
Cape Breton police replace RCMP at Wagmatcook
VinCenzo raVina management and use of force policies.
email@example.com A Halifax Regional Police inves-
tigation found that Frenette did not
The Nova Scotia government has break any rules, and shot Simon in
agreed to replace the RCMP with the Cape self-defence. The police say Simon had a
Breton Regional Police as the police force rifle.
on the Wagmatcook First Nation reserve. Band members were wary of
This follows the controversy sur- trusting the investigation’s conclusions
rounding the December 2008 shooting because the RCMP was involved in the
of Wagmatcok resident John Simon by an process.
RCMP officer. But Landry said it’s “premature
to request a public inquiry when the
parties concerned haven’t read the report
“ We have a community
that’s suffering at the
loss of a member of their
The Wagmatcook council has filed
a freedom of information request to
gain access to the police report on the
community and we’re on shooting. Landry said it will get a copy.
the journey of, ‘how do we “We’re going to assist them in VINCENZO RAVINA
heal?’ getting a copy of the report if we can Justice Minister Ross Landry after Tuesday’s meeting with the Wagmatcook band council.
Ross Landry and once they’ve read the report we’re
Justice Minister going to sit down and have a further
The change was agreed on in a
Cecil Clarke, Cape Breton North MLA
Volume 12 #7
meeting Tuesday between the Cape and former minister of justice, said he’s
Breton band’s council and Justice Minister disappointed with the government’s The Halifax Commoner is Issue Editor
Ross Landry. response. published ten times a year — five Kristy Hutter
The cost for five officers from the “Today’s meeting should have weeks in October/November and Assignment Editor
Cape Breton Regional Police to patrol had them with the full benefit of five weeks in January/February. Kathleen Hunter
the reserve will be just over $600,000. reading that report, to sit down for that It is written, edited and designed Photo Editors
The cost for three RCMP officers was discussion on the next step,” he said. by students in the Newspaper Mark Teo | Meggan Desmond
$477,000. The provincial government Landry said he felt honoured to meet Workshop at School of Journalism,
foots about half of the bill, and the the Wagmatcook council and discuss its University of King’s College, Faculty Advisors & Instructors
federal government pays the rest. concerns. Halifax, N.S., B3H 2A1. Dean Jobb
The council and Landry also “We have a community that’s Reporting, Writing, Editing
discussed opening a public inquiry into suffering at the loss of a member of P: (902) 422-1271 (ext. 143) Kate Ross
Simon’s death. He was shot three times by their community and we’re on the F: (902) 423-3357 Production/Design
Const. Jeremy Frenette in his home. journey of, ‘how do we heal?’ At the E: firstname.lastname@example.org Michael Creagen
His widow alleged the officer had no same time, how do we assure public Photography
reason or warrant to enter the home and safety and the quality of policing
that the RCMP did not follow its crisis service?”
layout pages 1, 2: Jonathan Charlton
January 22 – 28, 2010 foCus: saVour the C 3
Marketplace migrating to greener pastures
Casey dorrell many people are ambivalent about
email@example.com moving the market but added that
the new building will have its own
Every Saturday morning, thou- atmosphere.
sands of Haligonians make a pil- Keith Tufts of Lydon Lynch
grimage to the Halifax Farmers’ Architects, lead designer for the new
Market on Lower Water Street. market, agreed the 4,050-square-
But by summer, they’ll be metre building will be more than
traveling a bit further. just a bigger space. A regular at the
Erin Rogers, a recent Dalhousie market, Tufts said the new building
University graduate, was one of will become a “major heart of the
those who made the trek to the city.”
market last week. Rogers said she is “It’s basically heated by the sun,
disappointed by the plan to move the the earth and the wind,” he said of
market a few blocks south to a larger the building’s combination of geo-
building at Pier 20. thermal, solar and turbine power.
“I love it here. It’s perfect. I don’t He said it will also use about 10
want anything to change,” she said times more local material than the
of the market’s current location. average Halifax building. All the
Leaning against an ironstone wall wood being used is either local or
with her friend, Kate McWilliams, salvaged and all other materials will
Rogers explained that she’ll miss be non-toxic. Rainwater will be col-
the charm of the 175-year-old brew- lected on the roof of the naturally
ery building that houses the market day-lit building, which will help
when a new building opens this irrigate the green roof and run the
“I don’t mind that it’s crowded,” It should be one of the most sus-
she said as her friend nodded. tainable buildings in North America, CASEY DORRELL
And it is crowded. On a typical Tufts said. Customers jostle for space on Lower Water Street’s farmer’s market.
morning, it’s common to smell food The new market will also expand
long before there’s a chance to buy to a six-day operation, giving ven- size,” he said of his medium-sized the new market. in the brewery, but no vendors could
it from a vendor. Instead, people dors the chance to upgrade their greenhouse operation. Left behind will be the few stores confirm this. Bill Greenwood, whose
mutter “excuse me” while shuffling temporary stands into permanent It’s unclear how many vendors in the brewery that aren’t part of the company, Greenwood Lane, owns
awkwardly through twisting corri- storefronts. will be open on days other than market, such as House Warmings. the property, said he’s also heard the
dors full of eager customers. Jim Bruce, owner of Riverview Saturday, though. Many will be Pat Donahoe has run the elaborate rumours but hasn’t been contacted
It’s these crowds that led Fred Herbs, a local greenhouse opera- taking a wait-and-see approach. gift store for almost 15 years, and by anyone.
Kilcup, general manager for the tion, has been a market vendor for “I’m a sole-producer, I need time while she does have a lot of business Kilcup said change will always
market, to plan the move. more than 20 years. He, along with to make this stuff too,” said Kathy during the week, half of her revenue make people nervous, but he added
“We need room and we need a lot Sellwood Green, Julia’s Bakery, The Legg, who’s sold a variety of sheep- is from Saturday morning. he has every reason to believe that
of room,” Kilcup said. While at one Dutchman and a handful of other skin products at the market for more “This is my mid-life crisis and I’m the new market will be a success.
time there were 100 vendors at the mainstays at the market will be than a decade. having a good one,” she said. “It’s a culmination of a lifetime of
market, it’s now home to close to opening a joint-storefront at the new While she said she’ll miss the The general unease sur- work, really. It’s a big step that brings
twice that number each week, with location. ambiance of the current building, rounding the move has led to together all the efforts that every-
still more waiting for space. “I think it’s a real opportunity for Legg, like most customers and ven- persistent rumours of a smaller, alter- one’s made for the last 25 years.”
Kilcup said he understands that agriculture producers that are my dors, said she is looking forward to native market opening this summer
editor’s note affects their lives. tools of our field, I could not print an
That is why we looked into a issue without reference to the recent
number of food-related issues that devastation in Haiti.
kristy hutter directly affect the masses, such as It is important that citizens are
firstname.lastname@example.org local beef farmers who raise con- aware of how their community is
cerns for their industry, Halifax res- helping globally.
Food – one of life’s greatest plea- taurants recovering after a year of That is why we had two of our
sures, also one of the defining rough business, food gems that are reporters look into local initiatives
ingredients of Haligonian lifestyle. unique to the city, and many more. that are assisting with efforts in
Whether it’s a trip down to the Drink – another integral part the aftermath of the life-shattering
Farmers’ Market, a night out at one of Halifax’s economic and social earthquake.
of Halifax’s renowned restaurants,
or local efforts for food aid in the city
and around the world, this city does
We looked at the wine industry
and how increased consumption
The people of Halifax have been
through disaster and its aftermath
before, and we know how impor-
Can’t live without us?
food good. is helping to develop Haligonians’ tant it is to band together and lend
I dubbed this week’s theme pallets. a hand.
“Savour the City” because food is We also visited numerous local I call on our readers to get involved
something I believe to be essential, coffee shops and discovered how locally. send CorreCtions, Complaints, ConCerns
not only to survival, but to the cul- café culture is growing in popularity Help, whether it is through and letters to the editor to
tural and fiscal framework of our in the city. donations or raising awareness.
society. Conscious of the world’s goings- No act of kindness is too small. theCommoner@ukings.ns.Ca
People who live in and visit this on and feeling the urge to exercise
city may not realize how much food some social responsibility using the
page layout: mark teo
4 saVour the City January 22 – 28, 2010
Out of season, not out of mind
Local vegetarian restaurants struggle to buy local in the winter months
mike gorman Mexico.”
email@example.com “Most small organic businesses
around here,” says Myra, “they deal
The winter months always offer local first, and if they can’t get local,
a challenge to kitchens that define then they go wherever is next best.”
themselves by organic and local Restaurateurs Gass and Campbell
food. agree that it is tough to maintain the
“It’s not a proud point of the place integrity of their restaurants’ ideals
that we have to ship things in from in the colder months, and the need to
California, but people still want to turn to the southern American mar-
eat lettuce this time of year,” says kets to fill out the stock orders is not
Matthew Gass, general manager likely to disappear any time soon.
of the Wooden Monkey on Grafton For Gass and the Wooden Monkey,
Street. one way to cope was to experiment
Gass would rather serve local with the menu.
winter root veggies like carrots and “We felt we were getting typecast
turnips, available from many farms as a strictly vegetarian restaurant,”
in the region, but he must bend he says. “There was a demand for
to accommodate his customers’ meat, and for us, we didn’t lose or
wishes. take away from our vegetarian items.
“There’s something to be said for The menu kind of expanded.”
While not exploding in popular-
ity as it has in some other larger
Canadian cities, the Halifax veg-
etarian and organic scene has been
going strong for the last decade.
“ If they can’t get local,
then they go wherever is
“ There’s something to be
said for eating-to-season.
He explains that, in the spirit of
Wooden Monkey the Wooden Monkey, all meat served
is raised in local, sustainable farms.
“We’ve had some vegetarian staff
members who, once they get to know
the farmers, actually gone down to
“The past two years have been our see the farm and how the animals
best years,” says Levon Campbell, are actually kept, they’re more likely
general manager of the Heartwood to eat a chicken, because they know
Bakery on Quinpool. He cites a rise the chickens have had a healthy life-
in health-driven diets and increas- style and has been respected.”
ing need by many for gluten-free The Wooden Monkey will host a
foods as having helped bring in new series of dinners organized by the
customers. Halifax Association of Vegetarians,
But, he warns, “it gets worse this MIKE GORMAN a group of local consumers, sellers
time of year.” Levon Campbell and Laura Bishop, the manager and owner of the Heartwood Bakery on Quinpool Road. and advocates for the vegetarian
“In the summer we’re almost option.
exclusively furnished with produce cost increase in imports from neigh- also cut back to meet the demands of awesome summer growing-wise.” The first will be held Jan. 26, with
from the Annapolis Valley ... but as bouring provinces. supply. The grocer says she maintains Geordie Ouchterlony of Home Grown
the year goes on, the order list gets Today, in the middle of January, “There are more organic growers a high level of in-store quality by Organic Foods presenting a talk on
smaller and smaller.” most of what he serves come across than ever,” says Tanya Myra, the adhering strictly to the “buy local” the values and how-tos on eating
Campbell is starting to notice that the American border. produce manager at Planet Organic, rule, but winter makes for the and buying locally.
prices for shipping produce from In Halifax, the winter season’s just down the street from Heartwood exception.
even the closest non-local source are touch is felt by more than just the res- on Quinpool. “They had a tremen- “Most of the stuff right now, if it’s
on the rise, with a 30 to 50 per cent taurant industry. Local grocers must dous year last year, and we had an not local or from Ontario, it’s B.C. or
Thursdays - 7:30 p.m. - EastLink Television (Channel 10)
page layout: VinCenzo raVina
January 22 – 28, 2010 saVour the City 5
What’s the beef with N.S. farmers?
peter Clarke to exit the industry right now,” he $2-million program will allow beef
firstname.lastname@example.org said producers to pay off some of the
He said he is worried this will interest on their loans.
Almost all the beef available for create a problem for the aging “The program is only good if
purchase in Nova Scotia is from out- population. Even if prices were to you can get a loan,” said Andrew
of-province and the producers here rebound, older farmers would not Younger, Liberal MLA for Dartmouth
are feeling the pinch. want to re-enter the business. East.
“We need to get more cows on “There is potential in rural Nova “We look at this as nothing
the ground,” said Sean Firth, Scotia for substantial industry,” said more or less than an indication of
policy advisor for Nova Scotia Firth. financial support for the beef
Cattle Producers on Tuesday, to the Firth argued that rural Nova industry,” said Dave Oulton, chair
legislature’s standing committee on Scotia’s largely tree-covered land of the cattle producers, indicating
resources in Halifax on Tuesday. would serve the province better that simply throwing money at the
The organization’s repre- if some of it was converted into problem will not help.
sentatives said it is extremely farm land. The Nova Scotia Cattle In the program’s press
difficult for Nova Scotia beef pro- Producers said they want a bigger release, Oulton said, “Today’s
ducers to compete with the larger herd to compete with monstrous announcement ensures that some
western industries. industries, such as Alberta. of the hardships faced by our
“A demographic impossibility,” farms, due to extremely low market PETER CLARKE
said Gary Burrill MLA for Colchester- conditions, can be addressed.” According to the Nova Scotia Cattle Producers, 90 per cent of beef bought in
We’re still going to Musquodoboit Valley about the Nova Scotia Cattle Producers Nova Scotia comes from outside the province.
go through an enormous proposal. would like to jump on the “buy
He referred to the fact that the local” bandwagon but say it’s One thing he would like is relevant again.
amount of hurt in the short
tiny Atlantic Provinces are always almost impossible to walk into a improved genetics in the cows to According to a Department of
term. in this position when it comes to supermarket and buy Nova Scotia have a higher quality product at a Agriculture report, the Nova Scotia
Leo GLavine competing with indus- beef, even if you were willing to quicker pace. With that, he said “we beef industry generated $21 million
MLA for Kings-West
tries to the west and pay a little more for it, said John will be able to better respond to the in sales in 2008-2009. In 2006, there
When mad cow disease hit Canada suggested that they should be Tilley, a representative for the cattle market demands.” were 716 beef farms in Nova Scotia.
in the early 2000s, the price of beef concentrating on high quality prod- producers. Ironically, Tilley said the only “We’re still going to go through
fell drastically while the cost of doing ucts and niche markets. “We want to produce what the way to improve and standardize the an enormous amount of hurt in the
business continued to increase. The meeting followed an province needs and wants,” Tilley genetics of their cows is to bring in short term,” said Leo Glavine, MLA
Firth said input costs have increased announcement made on Monday said. stock from the West. for Kings-West.
significantly and the industry needs by Minister of Agriculture John He said that there will always be The producers are working with
to achieve better profits for their MacDonell. beef in Nova Scotia, but warned a sustainable economic plan but
product. He announced the new beef there may not be a profitable they said they are still unsure as to
“Producers are making decisions interest pay-down program. The industry unless they save it now. what is needed to make the industry
Bluefin blues: Haligonians pledge to give up tuna
VinCenzo raVina “The results have not been go over their quotas, Chandler says.
email@example.com exactly what we hoped for,” says Other tuna stocks are in trouble,
Alan Chandler of the Nova Scotia but the bluefin is one of the more
New year, no tuna. That’s the Department of Fisheries and affected varieties. Bluefin is highly
pledge Bailey McGinn took for 2010. Aquaculture. The bluefin population prized for sushi and sashimi.
“I like to try and make good hasn’t bounced back yet. Troy Atkinson, president of the
choices when it comes to my food,” Nova Scotia Swordfishermen’s
she says. “I know that tuna is over- Association, says the bluefin
exploited.” population, at least in Canadian
McGinn studies biology and We’re not asking you to waters, appears to be healthy.
English at Dalhousie University. She change your life. It’s just a “We’ve seen record numbers
and at least 90 other local people little thing that might help. of bluefin. For most fisherman,
have agreed not to eat tuna this year. they’ve become a little more than a
The pledge was set up by Dalhousie Student nuisance.”
YourChoiceHalifax.ca, a website Bluefin are destroying nets and
that promotes sustainable seafood getting in the way of fishermen who
in Halifax, such as fish with large VINCENZO RAVINA Chandler says this may be aren’t after bluefin, Atkinson says.
and healthy populations caught in Bailey McGinn is giving up tuna as her new year’s resolution. because the eastern and western In March, the Convention on
environmentally friendly ways. stocks of bluefin have been mixing, International Trade in Endangered
YourChoiceHalifax.ca lists and tuna,” says Jesse Kelly, one of the Atlantic bluefin tuna stocks are which makes getting accurate Species will vote on a ban to trade
reviews restaurants in Halifax that founders. Kelly says it’s a small step. down due to years of overfishing. information on the population bluefin tuna.
serve sustainable seafood. “We’re not asking you to change The total allowed catch has gone difficult. Even though tuna on “It’s hard to have legislation out
Four marine biology students at your life. It’s just a little thing that from 22,000 tons in 2009 to 13,500 either end of the Atlantic are in the open waters,” McGinn says.
Dalhousie University started the site. might help.” tons this year in an effort to let the considered different stocks, there’s “It’s difficult to keep tabs on what’s
“We’re tying to keep this website McGinn says she loves sushi and population rebuild. nothing stopping them from making going on out there so overfishing in
very interactive, and I thought we will miss eating spicy tuna rolls. But, The rebuilding process began transatlantic trips. general happens everywhere.”
might make a cute little New Year’s she says tuna isn’t sustainable right three years ago, when the allowed Overfishing has been rampant in
resolution page about giving up now. catch was a little below 30,000 tons. the east, where fishermen regularly
page layout: monika WarzeCha
6 saVour the City January 22 – 28, 2010
Now that’s what we call local food
Our reporters took to the streets of Halifax in search of unique dishes. Here’s what they found.
MARK TEO KRISTY HUTTER JESSICA ILSE
The devilled tofu sandwich at Heartwood Bakery The Chickenburger’s chickenburger Darrell’s peanut butter burger
Halifax has a vegan-friendly dish it has perfected: Driving along the Bedford Highway, the flashing sign of a local food Dan Joseph, owner of Darrell’s Restaurant, is used
the devilled tofu sandwich. landmark will dazzle you. The Chickenburger, in ’50s diner fashion, to patrons’ looks of surprise at one menu option – the
From the kitchen of chef Levon Campbell, it’s an has been standing since 1940, attracting regulars for generations. peanut butter burger.
open-faced sandwich found at Heartwood Bakery, The pristine diner is known for, you guessed it, its chickenburger Former owner Darrell Sibly created the recipe in
a vegetarian restaurant on Quinpool Road for more – chunks of chicken kept in boiling broth then spooned onto a small, 1992 when the restaurant opened.
than a decade. steamed bun. There is not much to this legendary dish but faithful The peanut butter burger is the result of an “experi-
Heartwood’s fare is served in the most authentic customers swear by it, eating up to three in one sitting. ment gone right,” says Joseph. Sibly is a peanut butter
way possible. Skipping the processing, its grains and Sinking your teeth into it is like biting into a leftover turkey sand- enthusiast and simply put peanut butter on a ham-
vegetables are served up in whole, untampered form wich the day after Thanksgiving dinner – scraps of warm, tender meat, burger bun to create the recipe.
whenever possible. juices seeping into a tiny value-plus hamburger bun. Outwardly, the peanut butter burger appears to be
And their approach works. So why do people like it? another gourmet hamburger, complete with bacon,
Along with Satisfaction Feast on Robie Street, it’s “It’s a constant thing, you know, it’s never changed right from its lettuce, tomatoes, cheese, and mayo. The only addi-
one of the city’s best-loved veggie restaurants. original recipe,” said Amanda Brown, a Chickenburger supervisor. tion is the slab of peanut butter spread across the top
For the devilled tofu, don’t expect any half-baked “It’s something grandma would probably put together – good healthy bun, giving a sweet taste to complement the meaty
Middle American influence: this dish is all Heart- home-cooked food.” burger.
wood’s. The sandwich is served cold on dense brown Brown, an employee of 10 years, is right. The burger, more compa- Joseph bought the Fenwick Street restaurant in 1997
bread, topped with dill tofu pâté, rough-hewn toma- rable to a sandwich, is devoid of grease, making it one of the healthiest and the peanut butter burger came with it.
toes, organic greens, crunchy cucumber and sprouts. choices on the menu. Sibly’s experiment has since won numerous awards
The real highlight of the dish is the creamy tofu, Other not-so-good-for-you favourites include their crispy onion rings, from The Coast’s Best of Food and Drink for Best
which is slightly over-salted to compensate for the homemade milkshakes and fresh, thin-battered fish and chips. Burger, a long-winning streak continuing in 2009.
heaps of toppings. The chicken and beef are bought from a local farm and cooked fresh “They don’t specifically put ‘peanut butter’ in the
No, it’s not quite hard-boiled eggs and relish, but daily on sight, said Brown. award title, but we know it’s the one that’s winning us
it’s also not another rubbery veggie burger. The busiest days at The Chickenburger are Saturdays and Sundays, awards,” says Joseph.
Order it up with a house salad – a mixture of or- when they cook up to seven dozen chickens – that’s 84 (!) – and fami- “We’ve never had someone try it and not like it,”
ganic greens, peppers, an assortment of toasted seeds lies come in for their usual orders. says Joseph, although some patrons are skeptical
with your choice of homemade dressing – and it’s a But Brown says it’s the service that makes the meal. when placing their orders.
twist on stuffy summer picnic fare. “A lot of our staff have been here many, many years, some have been Still, the peanut butter burger’s popularity contin-
While it’s not the most celebrated of Heartwood’s here 30 years,” she said. “We love serving our customers. It’s fun. ues to grow as it wins awards, making it the second
dishes – that distinction goes to their sourdough People come from all over.” best-selling item on the Darrell’s menu after the pita
bread and hearty brown rice bowls – it’s easily the club.
most adventurous. “The peanut butter burger gets all the fame.”
– Mark Teo – Kristy Hutter – Jessica Ilse
Steaming silkworm pupa is served in
South Korea. Sardinians eat maggot-
infested cheese. Raw puffin heart is
a delicacy in Iceland.
A drink called Purple Jesus. It My buddy told me to try Prepared grasshoppers and
had tea leaves in it, grape juice something. It looked like chunky grubs. They were nutty and
We asked Haligonians what’s the and hard alcohol. And I found out paste. I would like to believe it crunchy.
weirdest thing they ever ate or afterwards that it had crushed was meat.... Like, regular meat. Stephen Fry
caffeine pills in it. The kind of meat you won’t get in Dalhousie Technical Support
drank? Adam Casey trouble for eating.
Univeristy of King’s College Micky Blanks
Student Rapper, a.k.a. nixxx
page layout: kathleen hunter
January 22 – 28, 2010 saVour the City 7
MIKE GORMAN KATHLEEN HUNTER
The everywhere donair Salvatore’s ‘Original’ pizza
Depending on where you visit, the origin of the donair seems as mysterious as the In the North End of Halifax stands a villa. Inside that villa is a kitchen, and inside that
ingredients in the ever-ready-to-serve rotating pillar of meat. kitchen cooks a pizza.
A historically-inclined gourmet chef could visit the claimed “home of the donair” But not just any pizza.
many times in a day and never once return to the same restaurant. “It’s straight-forward pure pizza the way it was originally meant to be,” says Chris
The Kamoulakos brothers, Peter and John, are the among most popular claimants to Cuddihy, owner of Salvatore’s Pizzaiolo Trattoria.
inventing this delicious, if perplexing dish, responding to a general disregard from Nova “It’s neither fancied-up in a gourmet style and it’s also not cheapened. We do everything
Scotians in the ’70s to the traditional gyro and tzatziki sauce. the old-fashioned way.”
The two Greek brothers devised a sweeter, more appealing sauce for their Maritime With an ultra-thin crust dusted in garlic, swept in extra-virgin olive oil and traditional
customers, made of condensed milk, sugar, and vinegar, and the rack of lamb was tomato sauce, covered in mozzarella cheese, and sprinkled with fresh parmesan and herbs,
replaced with the column of spiced meat, typically a blend of beef and pork. Salvatore’s “Original” Pizza is spiced to perfection. It’s also the most popular item on the
The dish didn’t take off until 1973, when Peter and John moved into the production menu, fitting with Salvatore’s philosophy that “one key to great pizza is simplicity.”
side of the business, and the now-regional institution King of Donair started selling the Inspired by Salvatore’s New York Pizza, a South End restaurant where Cuddihy used to
brothers’ creation to hungry Haligonians. work and that closed after just three years in the early ’90s, the Young Street restaurant has
Since then, the simple meal, usually served in a pita wrap with sliced tomatoes and on- been in business for 15 years.
ions and dripping in sticky donair sauce, has become as recognizably Halifax as Citadel “It needed to be here,” says Cuddihy. “You could tell it was missing. We needed this kind
Hill. Most who’ve spent a night on the town have ended up at the famous Pizza Corner, of pizza, so we opened it up again.”
enjoying a satisfyingly greasy treat while they can still remember the night. Cuddihy said Salvatore’s recipes were developed over the course of two years by about 15
Today, this Nova Scotian staple comes in many shapes—and some impressive sizes. people, most of them customers.
You can have it on a bun, as a donair burger or in a sub sandwich. Suggestions included drying the vegetables and putting them on half-way through the
Or smeared across a pizza pie. cooking time.
Or over a bed of fries, the spicy meat smothered in cheese curds and gravy for a “It takes longer,” says Cuddihy, “but we use real recipes, real ingredients – we always
(possibly literally) heart-stopping plate of donair poutine. have.”
Fancy the sweet donair sauce? Try using it as a dip for apples or carrots. Want it on a “Real” is a word that could be used to describe the whole Salvatore’s experience. Mostly
stick? Or just deep fried in a thin crispy shell? Donair egg rolls (above) and pogo sticks used for take-out, the restaurant is a small, quaint space with bright yellow walls, hang-
are available across the metro area. ing plants, and a piece of relief art depicting Italy – “The Boot” – itself. A facade of a villa
Grocery stores sell do-it-yourself kits, although few live up to the standards of flavour separates the kitchen from the sitting area.
of the real deal. It’s a place in high demand. On a Friday night, Salvatore’s makes 200 to 300 pizzas, most
There’s legend of donair salads lurking out there somewhere. For the colossal for take-out.
appetite, it can even be ordered by the pound. And if pizza isn’t enough, there’s always traditional Italian dessert: gelato, sorbetto, and
In Halifax, the donair truly is king. cannoli, as well as cheesecake made by Cuddihy’s wife.
“Everything, absolutely everything is made here,” says Cuddihy.
- Mike Gorman - Kathleen Hunter
Hospital food. Cod liver pâté on crackers. It felt Kombucha. It’s fermented bacteria I ate black bear meat. The bear Pickled sea worm in Indonesia.
Steve McInnis slimy and mushy. that you drink. It’s carbonated, had been freshly killed and just It was weird – but fine. They put
Hospital Patient Sarah Goddare and every once in a while you get bled the day before. There was them in an old wine bottle with
Dalhousie Law Student a slimy bit. It’s supposed to be something spiritual going on. It vinegar. They were just sort of like
good for your digestive system. wasn’t like eating a chicken – it vinegary grit.
Will Perkins was something that can kill you. Katie Guitton
Coffee Aficionado Kyle Jackson Zumba Instructor
Artist / Gus’ Pub Chef
page layout: kristy hutter
8 saVour the City January 22 –
Emily McCarthy is the accommodating barista at the Smiling Goat on South Park Street.
It’s a joint known for its espresso art.
Roast it, blend it, brew i
Harder, better, faster, stronger is the nam
Jim Dikaios, owner of Java Blend, supplies many independent coffee shops. Beans are roasted fresh daily at Java Blend on North Street.
page layout: meggan desmond
– 28, 2010 saVour the City 9
Caitlin Ryan and Ashley Rowsell talk life, love and the pursuit of happiness at Uncommon Grounds on Argyle Street.
it, froth it, pour it, sip it
me of the game for local coffee lovers
Photo essay by Mark Teo and Meggan Desmond
James Neish prepares a fair trade treat at Spring Garden Road’s Just Us!
page layout: mark teo
10 s aVour the City January 22 – 28, 2010
Taste test crowns Brit brew king of beers
Jonathan Charlton Still, a night that includes Star The malt and wheat flavours – almost
firstname.lastname@example.org Wars is always better than one that like a cider – begged for an orange
doesn’t. slice and were a good fit for a light
It’s important to know which beers The second thing that happened beer.
are good to drink. was the result of a flaw in the meth- Second: Garrison Winter Warmer.
So, solely with the benefit of The odology of the test. After about the We couldn’t quite pick out the indi-
Commoner readers in mind, I decided fourth beer we realized that we vidual cinnamon, clove and brown
to conduct a beer tasting. should have been spitting out the sugar flavours bragged about on the
The jury consisted of myself and beer after we’d tasted it, rather than label, but the overall effect certainly
fellow Commoner reporter Peter swallowing it. impressed us. Smooth, thick and
Clarke. I won’t say we became less than with a pleasant aftertaste, this beer
The method: we’d each score a beer sober judges of the beers – we simply certainly lived up to its name.
out of 10, then add our totals. The didn’t drink enough for that. But I will And the winner is: McEwan’s
beer with the highest combined score admit we were much louder critics as Scotch. Haven’t heard of this one?
would win. the tasting went on. Eric, our friend, Neither had we until the day of this
The beers represented a variety became quite alarmed at the grow- test.
of styles and countries. Many of ing intensity of criticism we hurled at This Edinburgh-brewed 8-per-
them may be new to you – they were both the beer and the TV. cent dark lager took top honours for
certainly new to us. Eventually we did reach the last being an exceptionally drinkable
The test began in a refined and beer. Here are the results: strong beer. It’s malty without being
organized manner. We sat down at a Sixth: Mythos Lager. This Greek overpowering, and the coffee flavour
table and began drinking, pen and brew wasn’t bad, but it also didn’t do enhances instead of dominates.
paper in hand. We tasted the first much to stand out. It wasn’t particu- As Peter noted, it will “put Celtic
beer, graded it, then moved on. larly smooth or flavourful. Inspiring hair on your chest,” but I thought it
Then two things happened. comments such as “meh” and “drink- also had one of the best aftertastes.
First, another friend who lives able,” it didn’t threaten the top beers. I gave it 9 out of 10, the highest
in residence with us came into the Fifth: Faxe 10%. This Danish score of the day, and Peter gave it 8,
common room and turned on the TV. extra-strong beer lived up to its name tied for the highest he gave out. A true
The movie he started to watch was – the first sip comes as a mule kick dark horse.
Star Wars: The Phantom Menace. to the mouth. After you know what Clearly my little test wasn’t perfect.
Peter and I are both avid – avid to expect it’s more enjoyable, but it SAM RAMOS I couldn’t fit in a red ale or a weissbier,
– fans of the original Star Wars doesn’t have the smoothness or fla- Seven different beers were put through rigorous scientific testing. and we’re missing some well known
films. We are equally passionate in vour to make it a preferable bever- brands. You might argue that we
our disdain for the prequel trilogy. age. There are better high-percentage Keith’s. But we also felt the overpow- disagreed on the American Anchor showed a bias towards darker beers.
Essentially, half of our beer tasting beers out there – such as the winner ering aftertaste held it back – it nearly Steam Ale. He felt the pleasant aroma, Our goal was to try some beers that
became a critique of the movie: how of this tasting. overpowered subsequent beers we easy-to-drink flavour and lack of we’d never tried and see how we liked
nothing makes sense, the acting Fourth: Propeller India Pale Ale. tasted. aftertaste was a good fit on a 4.8-per- them, then share our verdict.
is terrible and how Jar Jar Binks is We agreed that this strong, bitter, full- Third (tie): Anchor Steam Ale cent beer. I thought it tasted weak. We That we got to watch Star Wars was
absolutely hateful. bodied ale was better than Alexander and Bavaria Light Lager. Peter and I both liked the Dutch Bavaria Light. a bonus.
Indecent exposure: Facebook foodies show too much
disgraCebook Frederick Kaufman, a writer for extreme, that’s highly pleasurable. Ramsay. The result is mostly crappy Steve’s a graphic designer! Stacey’s
Harper’s magazine, blames gas- They can entertain themselves and meals and boring photography. a bike courier! – that’s not enough
tronomy’s new voyeur culture on other people.” Of course, Generation Y’s obses- for others. And for those people,
mark teo the Food Network, which he says Baumann says that like porn, the sion with food isn’t just limited their food choices can add a little
email@example.com has turned culinary creations into lavish portrayal of food on televi- to carnal pleasures. Like extreme spice to their personas.
objects of fantasy. sion allows viewers to enjoy experi- sports, straight-edge – abstaining “People have multi-faceted iden-
There’s a pornographic plague on “That leg of lamb, that big chunk ences vicariously. That’s why, like from drinking and drugs for non- tities,” says Baumann. “And they
my Facebook newsfeed. of steak, that was the star,” he told a leaked Kim Kardashian sex tape, religious reasons – and hammer can combine identities with being a
It’s not a Lindsay Lohan party National Public Radio in 2005. “The people can’t pry their eyes away pants, foodie-ism is becoming a foodie. You can be a business person
explosion or the cleavage of Meghan fetishized focus on it was clearly a from a glitzy gastronomic photo cultural fashion trend. and a foodie.”
McCain, the social (media) butterfly pornographic focus.” shoot. “Foodie culture is defined around Besides, unlike music, art or
daughter of a certain Republican Unsurprisingly, Kaufman says But Facebook snack spam – pun eating practises, the way we pro- film, food is a bare necessity of life.
senator. that the Food Network’s target demo- intended – fails for the same reason duce food and the way we talk Incidentally, 25-year-olds declaring
Nope, it’s photos of cupcakes. And graphic are the 18- to 35-year-old grainy, amateurish sexts fail: Betty about food,” says Baumann. “Young vegan lifestyles might be the new
soup made from scratch. But mostly males – that tech-savvy bunch who Crocker cupcakes pale in compari- people tend to be more politically 16-year-olds wearing Ché Guevara
cupcakes. can’t get enough of social media, or son to a Rachael Ray offering. engaged, and there’s now aware- T-shirts.
This isn’t your grandmother’s pornography for that matter. “Part of the big lie of porn and part ness of political consequence of the Facebook is, if nothing else, an
porn. Generation Y’s current While that’s a target audience of the big lie of the Food Network is food choices we make.” online (and sometimes exagger-
fixation is snack smut. for advertisers, Shyon Baumann, things are made to look extremely More than ever, people are con- ated) depiction of one’s persona, so
And it’s parasitic to newsfeeds. a University of Toronto sociology simple when in fact they’re extraor- cerned with ethical eating and it makes sense that foodies would
That Australian backpacker you professor and co-author of Foodies: dinarily complex,” Kaufman told issues such as labour rights, animal broadcast their creations online.
met in Laos is baking up titillating Democracy and Distinction in the NPR. treatment and the environmental But unadventurous food-spam
tilapia. Your pilates instructor is Gourmet Foodscape, says there’s Problem is, plenty of my Facebook cost of a meal. Being a foodie, like a still just feels like Facebook
making orgiastic okra. And some- more to the story. pals believe that seductive lie – and political affiliation, has become an narcissism.
where, there’s the assumption that “Men are interested in food as a the delusion that with a wok and a identifier. Stick to the vacation pictures
you – their friend, according to spectacle,” he told The Commoner. dusty box of Hamburger Helper, While some are content using because, sugar, I don’t care about
Facebook – should care. “It can be something that is anyone can become the next Gordon their profession as an identity – your cupcakes.
page layout: Casey dorrell
January 22 – 28, 2010 saVour the City 11
Restaurants recovering from economic fall
Owners hopeful for thriving business following less-than-stellar 2009
kristy hutter were half what they used to be,” said
firstname.lastname@example.org King. “Some of our regulars were not
coming in as often as usual and we
Halifax’s restaurant industry has did not experience new clientele.”
taken a hard hit since the beginning Nova Scotia’s spokesperson
of last year’s recession. for the Canadian Restaurant and
But as the new year unfolds, some Foodservices Association, Luc
restaurant owners say they are hope- Erjavec, gave other reasons for the
ful their businesses will thrive again. business slowdown over the past
The owner of Halifax’s Da Maurizio two years – H1N1 panic, the lack of
restaurant, Tanya King, said she parking downtown, and the city’s
noticed business getting better shabby snowplowing job.
in July. Since then, the number of He said the fall in the restaurant
patrons eating at the Italian restau- industry goes beyond the recession,
rant has increased tremendously. and that the government does not
She said last month was the best recognize the value of the restaurant
December the restaurant has ever business.
seen. “You can’t open a newspaper with-
“I really think it was because out the government giving handouts
people were sick and tired of having to farming or forestry industries,” he
nothing this Christmas,” she said. said.
“The depression is over. They want “We never ask the government
to get out and have a good time for handouts – that’s not our indus-
because they can’t go without doing try. To put that in a scale with other
that for a second year in a row.” industries we employ more people
than farming, fishing, logging,
finance and insurance combined.”
According to the association, the
Culturally and restaurant industry makes on aver-
socially, we are integral to age $1.5 billion in sales every year
communities. We are such in Nova Scotia and employs almost
30,000 people, 13,000 of which are
a big part of the economy
under the age of 25.
and governments have to “How many students have we put
recognize that. through university in the HRM?”
Luc Erjavec asked Erjavec. “Culturally and
Restaurant and Foodservices socially, we are integral to commu-
Association nities. We are such a big part of the KRISTY HUTTER
economy and governments have to Tanya King, owner of Da Maurizio, says the restaurant has already booked wedding rehearsal dinners for August.
But a year ago, business was For example, he said the Nova This means restaurants could offer with the opportunity to come in for dinners for August and businesses
rough. She listed a number of rea- Scotia Liquor Corp. should offer competitive prices on their alcohol an inexpensive bowl of pasta, she are booking the restaurant for corpo-
sons as to why her restaurant expe- restaurants wholesale pricing on and larger portions of each bottle said she believes her restaurant rate events in the fall.
rienced a lull – most resulting from alcohol – something liquor boards sold would go to the manufacturer. is an essential part of community “Things are starting to come out
the economic downturn. in other provinces do. He said res- King said she agrees that the res- development. of the hole,” she said. “I think that
“Corporate groups weren’t book- taurants would then be able to buy taurant industry benefits all of soci- She said she is hopeful for the people just either bit the bullet or
ing as much, and if they did, it wasn’t more booze and the economic spin- ety. Between hiring faithful staff coming year. Couples are already that perhaps their financial situation
for the same capacity. The numbers off would benefit local brewers. members and providing students planning wedding rehearsal turned around.”
Visit it online at www.kjr.ca
page layout: JessiCa ilse
12 s aVour the City January 22 — 28, 2010
Decades later, celebrity chef still inspires
JessiCa ilse buzz around cooking and Julia Child. of French Cooking with his ability to the leader of an earlier generation. could cook and they could have fun
email@example.com The movie is based on the lives of truss a chicken. “There was no cooking program, while doing it.”
two women: Julia Child (portrayed But, unlike Julie Powell, don’t no Food Network. It was kind of like The appeal of cooking, for
Back in the late 1960s, standard by Meryl Streep), the chef famous expect Nickerson to cook his way the Dark Ages: people stuck to local Nickerson, is based in the senses.
meals in the small fishing village for introducing French cuisine to through Child’s Mastering the Art of recipes, there wasn’t much innova- “There’s nothing better than the
of Wood’s Harbour included stew, Americans; and Julie Powell (por- French Cooking. tion.” smell of onions and garlic cooking,
soup, meat and potatoes, and bread trayed by Amy Adams), a New Yorker “If I had the time, which I don’t, I’d Nickerson says Child is appeal- or a loaf of bread just coming out of
and biscuits. No man would ever who spent a year cooking the 524 never make it through the aspic sec- ing because of her casual attitude the oven. Then after you’ve enjoyed
admit to cooking, much less that he recipes in Child’s Mastering the Art of tion. God, I hate aspic.” towards a formal cooking style. all the smells, you get to taste it.”
enjoyed it. French Cooking. Aspic is a savoury jelly made from “She made everyone feel that they
Yet Peter Nickerson can remember “I didn’t know who Julia Child meat and used in meat recipes.
his father buying Italian and Chinese was,” says Nickerson, because in “Imagine beef broth as a Jell-O
cookbooks and experimenting with his rural home, the only TV stations flavour.”
herbs and wine—then cutting-edge available were CBC and ATV, which The Culinary Arts program at the
cooking. only came in if the weather was Akerley Campus of the Nova Scotia
Nickerson remembers his par- clear. Community College in Dartmouth is
ents having specific cooking roles: It wasn’t until Nickerson was always waitlisted, and up to 160 stu-
his mother, Grace, would cook the living in Ontario, studying radio and dents are enrolled. Five other cam-
meat and potatoes, and his father, television arts at Algonquin College, puses offer a form of the program.
Crandall, would experiment with that he saw Child’s cooking show, The two-year program teaches
ethnic dishes. Cooking with Julia, on PBS. students the basics of fine dining,
Nickerson first tried his hand at “It was funny to watch her slam including food-handling, plating,
cooking at the age of 14. Now, 40 food around, drop dishes on camera, planning, and kitchen and restau-
years later and working as a para- and just be fearless,” says Nickerson. rant management.
medic, he has developed a repertoire “I loved her attitude about cook- “Some students are fresh out of
of recipes. ing. Her catchphrase, ‘Be fearless,’ high school. Some students come
“Anything where you can play sums it up. You can’t be too serious from universities because they
around with the recipe ingredients and unmoving when you cook,” he didn’t find their niches. Some are
and change things to suit your own says. mature students,” says Claude
tastes is my kind of recipe.” “The more you enjoy the process, AuCoin, a culinary arts instructor at
One of Nickerson’s cooking inspi- the better the recipe turns out and the Akerley campus.
rations is Julia Child, the iconic the better it tastes.” “There’s something expressive
American chef. Nickerson has tried a few of Child’s and creative about cooking,” says
Last August, the smash-hit movie recipes, including beef bourgui- AuCoin. “It’s very therapeutic.” JESSICA ILSE
Julie & Julia premiered, creating a gnon. He credits Mastering the Art As for Child, AuCoin says she was Julie & Julia continues to draw new cooks into the kitchen of Julia Child.
Nova Scotia uncorks a new taste for reds and whites
monika WarzeCha management student at Dalhousie drinking wine. He cites pretension
firstname.lastname@example.org University, grew up with wine on the as one of the reasons people might
table at family dinners. be soured on the drink.
Alexander Keith’s grip on Nova He says he had to work at enjoying “People are intimidated, ner-
Scotia might be slipping. wine, but stands by his decision to vous,” he says. “If you’re willing
The province has been evolving acquire the taste. to go out to a bar and try a beer,
into a society of wine drinkers over there’s nothing intimidating about
the last decade. that. And it should be the same
A 2006 Statistics Canada study with wine.”
says wine sales in Nova Scotia have The old strict rules about Other people are noticing
doubled since 1993, the largest what you can eat with wine increasing accessibility when it
growth in the country. The average are being broken. comes to wine.
wine sale per adult went to 13.6 litres Jane Wright Jane Wright is the owner of Jane’s
in 2005 from 6.4 litres in 1993. Restaurant Owner On the Common, a restaurant that
“We’re growing at a faster rate chooses its wine list with the help
because we had a lot of room to make Brisebois enjoyed the experience of a sommelier.
up,” says Rick Barrington, vice presi- MONIKA WARZECHA of wine so much he took wine edu- “The old strict rules about what
dent of communications for the Nova Jane Wright matches the wines with the menu at Jane’s On the Commons. cation courses at the Bishop’s Cellar you can eat with wine are being
Scotia Liquor Corp. wine store and joined Dalhousie broken,” she says, citing red wine
Barrington says that in the late years ago, the company mainly drinks. Wine increased by about per University’s Wine Society. with fish as an example.
1990s and early 2000s, customers had promotions and sales for spir- cent. It’s closest competition, beer, William Demers, the chair of the Keeping it casual and keeping an
were demanding more choice. its on the floor, but now, the focus only increased by 0.6 per cent. society and a fourth-year history open mind is what Demers suggests
“While in the past the wine selec- is largely on wine. A similar increase was seen from and philosophy student, started the when trying out different wines.
tion may have stayed pretty static, The corporation’s annual reports 2007 to 2008. And last year’s report still group to bring people from different “It’s like music. You listen to
we bring in anywhere up to about point to a steady rise in the amount has wine leading in volume percentage faculties across the school together. album the first time and you go, ‘I
1,000 different wines in and out of of wine sold. sold, though the number has leveled off The wine society was founded by like three songs on the album, but
the market every year now,” he says. From 2006 to 2007, the percent- at a little over four per cent. Demers in 2007 and has a mailing the rest I’m not too keen on.’ But the
Barrington says that the corpora- age of wine sold overshadowed Some new converts to wine are list of about 200. next time you listen to it, you pick
tion has also made an effort to pro- spirits, beer, and ready to drink becoming passionate about the drink. Demers hopes the group can up things you didn’t notice before.”
mote wine in the stores. Roughly six products or packaged mixed Laurent Brisebois, a first-year bring a more casual attitude toward
page layout: mike gorman
January 22 — 28, 2010 saVour the City 13
Pita pizzazz: Ethnic groceries thriving
monika WarzeCha also make shopping for food – often
email@example.com a confusing experience in a new
country – easier for immigrants.
From hummus to habitant soup, “The store owner often knows
the shelves of the Mid-East Food exactly what the person is asking
Centre hold an eclectic mix of items. for,” she says, “and if they don’t have
Though the independent gro- it, they’ll go out of their way to get it.”
cery store at Agricola and North When customers aren’t sure what
streets boasts goods from the they’re looking for, they often turn to
Mediterranean and Middle East, Mohamad for recipe advice. He says
there are a number of foods that lie he always makes sure to leave room
outside these geographic confines. for individual tastes.
Amid pomegranate salad dress- “When the customer asks, ‘What
ing, Turkish delight, and Arabic do you mix? What do you put?’
pepper are tins of sardines from I say, ‘Listen – different people,
Portugal, sesame oil, and Jamaican different style. Whatever is good for
But conversations aren’t always
limited to food.
“They smile, they tell story
The store owner often sometimes. Sometimes they come
knows exactly what the to ask advice. Even about social
person is asking for, and if things,” he says. “They ask about
they don’t have it, they go relations, family.”
out of their way to get it. Gregarious and with a wry sense
Nabiha Atallah of humour, the 54-year-old chats
Immigration Settlement and easily with everyone who comes to
Integration Services the counter at the front of his store.
The shop contains a row of
Salam Mohamad, co-owner of the freezers of halal meats and four
store, caters to customers as varied aisles of foods, the shelves closest to MONIKA WARZECHA
as his offerings. the window holding spices such as Customers keep coming back to the Mid-East Food Centre because of the variety of products and the friendly service.
He says about 60 per cent of oregano, cumin and cardamom.
the people who visit the store are The back of the store opens up to a Mohamad found a farmer who business. “I come here very often because I
Canadian, while the rest make up small café. A cluster of tables face a would drop off a box or two of “I never think about grocery. It like to support the small, indepen-
a blend of different backgrounds, counter filled with ready-to-eat foods parsley a week in the summer. was just opportunity – I saw that,” dent grocers,” Anand says. “Also, I
Turkish being the most common. such as tabbouli, lentil salads and “Mostly, we use it for tabouli.” he says. find they have better quality food –
Mohamad’s store is part of a pitas with zaatar. The shop also sells local honey Mohamad started out as a high like the olive oils and the pita.”
growing trend. A 2007 report by The Mid-East Food Centre and in-season greens. school physics teacher in Baghdad, Independent grocery stores like
Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada occupies a peculiar place in the and in 1990, moved to Vancouver. the Mid-East Food Centre might
says world food products make up grocery business. Though the He settled in Halifax in November seem small, but they take up a
more than 12 per cent of all retail
food sales. These types of food have
a five per cent annual growth rate in
store largely stocks foreign foods,
Mohamad makes the effort to sell
goods from local suppliers.
Parsley is a common
“ I come here very often
because I like to support the
small, independent grocers.
He and Feras Abdal Rasoul, who
moved to Canada from Iraq in the
spring of 2007, bought the store and
significant piece of the market.
A 2008 Kraft Canada-Canadian
Grocer sponsored study says inde-
pendent grocers make up about
Nabiha Atallah, manager of com- ingredient in Middle Eastern Nitin Anand reopened under their management 40 per cent of Canada’s $76-billion
munications, research and devel- cooking and Mohamad didn’t know Customer in January 2008. grocery industry.
opment at Halifax’s Immigration the herb was available from local For Mohamad, interacting with That’s why Mohamad isn’t too
Settlement and Integration Services, farms. While Mohamad speaks fondly of people is the best part of his job. worried about the big grocery store
sees ethnic grocers as playing a “The first year was difficult,” his own backyard garden of green At the counter, he rings in chains. He says he feels these rela-
role in helping immigrants main- Mohamad says. “Then I found out peppers, cucumbers and leeks, he Nitin Anand, a biology student at tionships will keep people coming
tain their sense of identity. They that they grow it here in the Valley.” says he never saw himself in the food Dalhousie University. back to the Mid-East Food Centre.
Covering DAL, SMU, MSVU, NSCAD, KING’s, AST and NSCC
page layout: James Whitehead
14 arts & Culture January 22 – 28, 2010
This ain’t your little sister’s vampire flick
Our reviewer checks out the latest action movies; sink your teeth into one but skip the other
pete’s piCks vested of blood. while. It was overly orchestrated but sadly, not in this case. His per- really clear until about 10 minutes
The lead in this film is Ethan and seemed like it was trying to formance was great but that isn’t before the end. Then the movie
Hawke (Lord of War, Training emulate John Williams’ Star Wars the problem, so just forget him for a ends abruptly and you are left con-
peter Clarke Day), who plays a vampire blood score at times. They could have moment. templating what has just happened.
firstname.lastname@example.org researcher and is sympathetic to toned it down a notch. The movie has a religious under- With some writing tweaks this
humanity’s plight. It’s great to see If you’re tired of seeing vampires tone that it is poorly explained. The could have been a gem of an action
Daybreakers and The Book of Eli Hawke back on the big screen. He fall in love on the big screen, on characters are constantly making movie. But instead, the audience
are the latest in Hollywood’s attempt doesn’t do many movies but he television and in books, you should indirect references to Christianity. is left disappointed and confused.
at saturating us with flavour-of-the- picks quality roles that are within check out this movie. No love, just These are difficult to follow because Rent it, or better yet, rent Children of
month genres: the apocalypse and his range. action, violence and conflict. religion is only briefly mentioned Men with Clive Owen – same idea,
vampires. As tired as I am of the Supporting him as a human by characters who should have better movie.
subject matter, I gave these movies underground fighter is Willem The Book of Eli is the first disap- made profound religious speeches
a shot. Dafoe (Spiderman, Platoon, Life pointment of 2010. in order to advance the story.
Daybreakers basically takes Aquatic) and, frankly, it’s always a This movie boasted so much The purpose of the movie is not
everything you’ve ever known pleasure to watch him act. His char- potential but was squandered with
about vampire movies and turns it acters are always full of personality. questionable writing and a weak
on its head. He has some timely comedic lines supporting cast.
The movie is set in the not-so- in the movie that will cause you to If you’ve ever seen the game
distant future where nearly all of smile amid the blood and gore. Fallout 3 for Xbox or Playstation,
humankind has been transformed Speaking of blood, there was a lot then you can generate a clear image
into vampires – a good deal for of it in Daybreakers. You may want of what The Book of Eli is like. It is a
some and not for others. to avoid seeing this movie if gory post-nuclear-war world and almost
The remaining humans form an scenes bug you, because it’s damn everything is reduced to rubble,
underground resistance and fight graphic. survivors doing what they can to
for survival while the vampires This film is dark – really dark – keep surviving.
hunt them down, only to put them and is meant to be taken seriously Denzel Washington (Training
in a Matrix-like holding facility but the soundtrack will oddly bring Day, Man on Fire) has the lead and is
where they are kept alive and har- you out of your trance once in a usually a shoo-in for a good movie JONATHAN CHARLTON
CD Reviews: From post-rock to post-coital
hear here R. Kelly – Untitled Caspian – Tertia
mark teo Would-be recessionistas and mid-life accountants take Let’s get this out of the way – a large majority of instrumen-
notice: R. Kelly is the de-facto post-millennial renaissance tal post-rock is cinematic. Explosions in the Sky’s tracks on the
man. Once the star of the Space Jam soundtrack, Michael Friday Night Lights soundtrack and Godspeed’s contributions
By Divine Right - Mutant Message Jordan, Bugs Bunny and Co. likely disowned him after he to 28 Days Later prove that.
kkk1/2 (out of 5) peed on a minor, videotaped it and blamed the whole fiasco So, if there are any fans of the genre in Hollywood – and
on his brother. it appears there are – someone should really send Spielberg a
Don’t fault Jose Contreras, By Divine Right’s ringleader, for But that was 2002. copy of Tertia.
having some pretty powerful friends. Since then, he’s released three stellar albums, pioneered For Caspian, density and technical brilliance is the name of
He employed Broken Social Scene-sters Leslie Feist and the hip-hopera genre with Trapped in the Closet and went the game – it’s impossible to tell, through the layers of distor-
Brendan Canning to create 1999’s Bless This Mess, one of the viral with the cinema verité YouTube hit “Real Talk.” tion pedals, whether the Boston collective absent-mindedly
finest Can-con albums of all time. And with that CD, By Divine And that’s where Untitled enters. strum their guitars or shred at them furiously.
Right declared themselves Toronto’s answer to Thrush Hermit Like the entirety of Kelly’s post-“Watergate” discography, Like Spielberg’s Band of Brothers or Saving Private Ryan,
or The New Pornographers: a power pop band that, perhaps his latest has a singular focus: sex. But despite his one-track there’s a constant tension between nervy stillness and all-out
unknowingly, ultimately shaped the province’s musical canon. mind, the true appeal of Untitled is the imaginative – and war – a mix they developed on their debut album, The Four
It has been a half-decade since the band released an album; frankly, literal – way Kelly sculpts his sordid narratives. Trees, but they’ve refined on Tertia.
Feist and Canning have since departed. But luckily, Contreras’ And Kelly consistently surprises: he wants listeners to let But the band is at its best when they’re hopeful and shim-
knack for crafting tightly wound pop tracks and unforgettable him impregnate them (“Pregnant”), play second fiddle to his mering. Clean, antique piano cuts through the gloom on “Mie,”
melodies hasn’t. girlfriend (“Be My #2”) and send him cell phone nudes (“Text the opening track; “Ghosts of the Garden City” juxtaposes an
Mutant Message’s opener, “I Love a Girl,” is a jagged, hand- Me”). There’s no clear-cut single in this smooth, mellow col- incisive, Pelican-esque riff with twinkling glockenspiel. “Of
clap worthy epic – it boasts soaring choruses, psychedelic guitar lection – the only club-ready song, “Supaman High,” is the Foam and Wave,” the album’s finest track, has the band build-
and muscular riffage in a concise, two-minute package. biggest dud of the bunch – but there needn’t be: Kelly alone is ing a giant, feedback-laden crescendo around an understated,
And the band doesn’t take any breaks. a fascinating study. three-note melody.
“Cupid in Oilskins” is a fast-paced surf song reminiscent of Pop critics have approached Kelly’s career like Jay Leno’s Tertia displays enormous potential, and it’s the defining
early Weezer; the chorus of “I Will Hook You Up” is the most – a culturally significant train wreck – but that’s not accurate. album of Caspian’s young career.
instantly memorable camp- Irony seekers are At this point, they’re
fire sing-a-long on this side missing the point: while certainly good enough to
of Omaha. Untitled isn’t Kelly’s score a Hollywood film –
Mutant Message doesn’t finest release, he’s an but until they can compete
reach the lofty heights of effortless storyteller, against Neurosis and Mono,
Contreras’ most defining a savvy humourist they’re not at the top of the
work, but, for him, burning and one of the most genre… yet.
out or fading away aren’t profoundly self-aware
options. Every moment of singers in the game.
this album feels completely
necessary, and that’s a sign
of a fine recording.
page layout: your nhutter
January 22 – 28, 2010 15
If a giraffe makes a sound does anyone hear it?
What sound does a giraffe make?
Do you have any idea?
Mona Keith has been taking care
of giraffes at the Calgary Zoo for
almost 20 years, and in that time,
she says she’s only heard a giraffe
make a sound maybe half a dozen
Giraffes are quiet, cautious ani-
mals. They rarely use their vocal
Keith has heard baby giraffes
make sounds – cow-like yawps –
when they’re distressed, but she’s
only heard an adult giraffe make a
She and some other keepers had
separated a mother giraffe from
her calf, so they could adjust some
straps the baby giraffe was wearing
to strengthen its weak shoulders.
Generally, the keepers don’t let
the mother giraffe watch, and so a
solid door keeps the mother giraffe
and the calf separate.
But this time, some hay kept the
door from closing properly, and the PHOTOS BY VINCENZO RAVINA
mother giraffe got curious. A giraffe poses gracefully for the camera at a drive-through safari in Italy.
“She just happened to peek, and
she saw us with her calf,” Keith sitting in a chair. because he wants them to stand still didn’t miss a paragraph. if the female giraffe is adequately
says. “I thought the roof was going But I still don’t have a giraffe for him so he can mount them and Ducks engage in a lot of reprehen- charmed, she’ll stand still and splay
to come off. The sound she made proper. (I consider this a failure on breed them.” sible behaviour. Rape is a normal her back legs.
was incredible. It was just a roaring the part of my friends and loved You can imagine my reaction: So reproductive strategy for male It’s downright romantic. How
bellow. It was an amazing sound.” ones.) many baby giraffes! They must not ducks. Female ducks have evolved civilized and pleasant they are.
I have to interject here. Now, as I’m sure you’re aware, have room for them all. But giraffe convoluted genitals like puzzles Giraffes are just all-around better
I am so bitterly envious of Keith female giraffes ovulate every two gestation is about 15 months and it to keep the male ducks guessing. citizens than ducks.
the giraffe keeper. She gets to hang weeks. The male giraffes test for turns out they make birth control That’s how rampant the aberrant “They’re very content animals,”
out with giraffes every single day. this daily, by tasting the females’ pharmaceuticals for giraffes. behaviour is. Keith says.
Giraffes are awesome. I love them. urine. And Keith says, “We don’t give Dutch researcher Kees Moeliker They just want food, space and
Over the years, my friends have Keith says if a female is ovulat- our babies away just to anybody. It released a paper in 2001 exploring a some company.
given me a lot of giraffe-themed ing, a male will “push his chest has to be an accredited facility.” case of mallard necrophilia. I can provide all three. Someone
presents like T-shirts, books, finger up against their rump, he’ll rub Dammit. Giraffes, on the other hand, have please accredit my facility and send
puppets, and one particular favou- their back leg with his front leg. Anyhow, the point is that giraffes a period of courtship, with the chest some giraffes my way.
rite: a painted wooden giraffe You know, he’s very nice to them are better than ducks. No, you bumping and the leg rubbing. And
• Giraffes can kill a lion with one kick.
• Male giraffes can be up to 18 feet tall. Females are up to 14 feet tall.
• Male giraffes “joust” each other with their heads and necks for herd
• When a giraffe is born, it falls about five feet to the ground.
• Newborns are typically standing within a half-hour. They’re about six feet
• Life expectancy is 20 to 25 years. They live in Africa.
page layout: peter Clarke
16 s ports January 22 – 28, 2010
Rainmen wash out Frost Heaves
peter Clarke team-high 28 points; and newly
email@example.com acquired centre Mark Mazur had 14
points and five rebounds.
The Rainmen stand at three wins Ferguson credited the team’s
and one loss after their 119 to 109 fourth-quarter defence for coming
victory against the Vermont Frost out with the win. He said his squad
Heaves at home last Saturday. was able to pull away in the fading
It was a close game. At halftime, minutes because of a few crucial
the Rainmen led 59 to 57. Leading defensive stops.
their way for the first half was small
forward Desmond Ferguson with 17
points, three steals and a rebound.
He shot a deadly efficient five for six I came here to try and
from the three-point line in the first win a championship.
half. Guard Tony Bennett was also Desmond ferguson
knocking down shots for Halifax in rainmen forward
the first half, with 15 points.
The Frost Heaves had a more
evenly distributed effort from their Along with Mazur, the Rainmen
squad in the first half with all ten of premiered three new players
their players contributing points. As Saturday night. DeAndre Thomas, a
a team, they also managed to pull six-foot-eight, 320-pound centre, and
down 10 offensive rebounds in the six-foot guard Antwan Dobie.
first half to keep the score close. Thomas, who had three rebounds,
Halifax’s third quarter effort was two points and a steal in 13 minutes
led by Eric Crookshank. The six-foot- played is happy to be in Halifax.
eight forward scored 14 points in the “I just want to play basketball,”
quarter and really got the crowd into he said after the game, “and they’re
the game. He finished the game with letting me play.”
a double-double – 22 points and 15 Rainmen owner Andre Levingston
rebounds. said, “Thomas, who currently is
Vermont just couldn’t keep working hard on his physical con- PHOTOS BY PETER CLARKE
Halifax’s scoring down, in spite of ditioning, is a powerhouse who will Tony Bennett of the Rainmen looks for an opening past Kendric Price of the Frost Heaves
a 23-point effort off the bench by make a big impact once he is in top
power forward Jawan Baily. form. We feel he can be the best big Basketball League games. just sponsor anybody for fear of He said he thinks Halifax is a great
The Rainmen finished the game man in the league.” According to an interview with damaging their brand. city to play basketball in and that the
with all five of their starters scor- Last Wednesday, Thomas hit the Levingston in RaptorsHQ, a sports “It’s wonderful,” Thomas said of fans are really supportive and loud.
ing in double figures. Point guard treadmill at the University of King’s blog dedicated to the Toronto Raptors his first experience as a Rainman. The Rainmen will host the Lawton-
Gary Ervin recorded 15 points and College gym – where they practice and Canadian basketball, atten- “The fans are great.” Fort Sill Cavalry of Oklahoma on
10 assists; Ferguson finished with and shoot around. dance is up this year for the Rainmen. “It’s a big reason I came here,” said Friday Jan. 22 at the Metro Centre. The
23 points, shooting six for nine There are big crowds showing They’ve landed major sponsors such Ferguson. “I came here to try and Cavalry have handed the Rainmen
from three; Bennett finished with a up at the Metro Centre for Premier as Rogers, who Levingston said don’t win a championship.” their only loss of the season.
Eric Crookshank goes up ... finds the net ... slams it home.
page layout: Casey dorrell