28.3.01. Taxi to the airport at 10:15. Plane left on time at 12:35...
29.3.01. Arrived Tokyo on time, and boarded NW001. We were a little late arriving at
Bangkok, but by 12:30 I was in my hotel room. Took 2 Tylonel PM, and had a good
night's sleep.
30.3.01. Had trouble finding Thai air --- it is in terminal 1. Again uneventful flight.
My checked baggage weighed 39.7 kg, so they charged me abou $50 for it. At hotel
Garuda, met Guy and Takashi.
Went to Timal trekking, and talked to Thulo and the boss. Business is not good. I
suggested they need a web site. Perhaps I can help them and piggyback a site
www.timaltrekking.com onto mine. They said this would be very expensive for them
to do in Nepal.
Guy looked at my gear -- we have some different preferences but no problems. this
year there are 7 expeditions on makalu.
Went to dinner with everyone who is here (all but Kerrs). We gave the two from the
film crew a hard time. We don't like this hardships and adventures type stuff. On the
other hand, they claim they are examining the psychology and science of high altitude
mountaineering.
BIOS..
Takashi Ozaki (48) has climbed Everest twice, including by a difficult route on the
north side. He has made 8 ascents of 8000m peaks, but hasn't attempted an 8000m
peak since 1986. His wife is French, and he lives in Hong Kong. He made a film of
the bee keepers of Sedua. He was one Japan's most famous mountaineers in the
1980's. When he was 19, he climbed the Alps, with Bonatti as his hero. Once Messner
invited him to join him on an 8000m peak, but Takashi's Japanese sponsors were not
interested in supporting a joint expedition.
Jean-Claude Latombe (53) is a Professor in the Computer Science Department at
Stanford. He spent 2 months trekking in Pakistan and climbing Mustagh Ata in 2000
(with Adventure Consultants). He spent a month and a half in South America early in
the year, and climbed Aconcagua by the falso route. then he went to Patagonia (Punta
Arenas) but got continuous bad weather. He plans to attempt Cho Oyu starting Sept
3. He has been climbing only 10 years but speaks of climbing 5.9 routes in the
Sierras.
He is a surprisingly uninteresting person. He said that in computer science, when the
problems start getting too difficult in one area, he moves to another, newer area,
where the problems are easier. He seems to read nothing but trash. This lunch time
(29/4), he put on a Jennifer Lopez CD at high volume and went and sat down,
seemingly oblivious to the fact that no one else wanted to hear Jennifer Lopez (or
anyone else, for that matter, at that volume). In conversation, he is generally pleasant,
but tends to be dogmatic, and engage in monologues, especially on his extensive and
very interesting travels.
Keith Kerr (48) owns(?) a real estate company in Hong Kong and is presumably
extremely wealthy. He has climbed the seven summits plus Lhotse etc.. He makes it
sound as though he just did it with some friends, and that his technical skills are
modest.
Jim Milne (58, mathematician, NZ, USA). Highest peak: Mustagh Ata 7550m (2000);
hardest climb East Face of Huscaran 6720m (1974); hardest solo Little Tirich 21000ft
(second ascent).
Robert Stevens (45) owns 2 restaurants in California. He has climbed extensively in
the North America. In 1996, he climbed Ama Dablam with Guy Cotter.
Bruce Hasler (2?) is a guide for AC based in Queenstown. He has climbed Cho Oyu
and Ama Dablam. Had been planning to climb a 1986 route on Everest, but the
expedition fell through.
Mark Williams (2?) runs a climbing store in Queenstown. He has never been over
6000m
Guy Cotter (38). Bought Adventure Consultants after the death of Rob Hall.
Bryan Moore (35) works for AC and lives in Wanaka. He and Guy are to be the stars
of documentary. He climbed the (very difficult) N. ridge of Ama Dablam but has not
been to extreme altitude.
Hamish Emerson is camera man and base camp manager.
Trekkers: Katie Deans, Jonell Mills, Alex Kerr, Lawrence Kerr.
Climbing sirdar: Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa; others Pasang Namgyal, Tenzing Gyaltsen,
Pema Rinzing.
Expedition Sirdar: Ang Tshering Sherpa.
31.3.01. Left at 6:00 for Sundarijal (1200R (72=$1) for taxi). Arrived at Sundarijal
6:40 and set off path --- easy to find--- at one point you cut left and cross a dam.
reached Burlang Banjang at 10am (650m in 1:45). Could see the mountains. Stayed
half an hour and descended to taxi 11:30. On way down, a Nepalese took a photo of
me with his baby daughter. Gunjaman had called for me again.
We had a meeting on the roof. while the camera whirred, Guy gave us a little talk. we
have no doctor, but we can link very quite quickly via satelite to various experts.
Finally I saw Gunjaman. He is building a second house for his extended family of 14.
His father is 88 and his mother is 83. They never leave their village. Now Gunjaman
will trek no more (his children have persuaded him that he is too old). It was only an
accident that he came to Kathmandu the same day as me, since he hadn't been here for
six months. We discussed all our six trips together. We wished each other luck. He
didn't know what I was talking about when I mentioned his e-mails. His village has
only one telephone and no electricity. Obviously his son devilama sent a message at
his request, and then responded to my message as if he was his father.
[Gunjaman said 8 men are working on his house, paid between 250R and 150R. it
will take them about 8 weeks to build it, and cost about 90,000R. at moment,
74R=$1.]
I went for dinner to the Vienna Kitchen (as usual).
1.4.01. Bought a few batteries and a pile of tablets for sore throats. Packed up, and at
11am we left for the airport. After a good deal of hassle with the gear --- they said
they could carry only 250kg but we had 450kg, we took off in an old Dornier and got
to Tumlingtar at about 2pm. Stayed in lodge. Their were violent thunderstorms during
the late afternoon. During night, Bryan snored badly, and apparenly, so did I --- heard
others scheming to kick me out.
2.3.01. Woke early and read for a while. Got up, and packed, and was ready to leave
at 6:30am, but breakfast wasn't until 7:30. Left (hence black mark). Took several
photos because the light was great, the morning fog was lifting, and the mountains
were clear. Reached Mani Bangjang 1150m a little after 10. Had lunch. Found good
spot to sit in shade of bamboos above a big camp site (soccer field), and read. Hamish
showed up and we played with the kids, whose English was surprisingly good.
Eventually wandered over to our camp site, and was happy find that 4 of us, including
the two snorers had been assigned tents of our own. I found it a short, but pleasant,
walk--- good views, and interesting walking through villages. It was hot, but not as
bad as I feared. A large Iranian party bound for Makalu arrived at the other camp site.
There seem to be about 20 of them, and they always trek in a single line with only
about 2 feet between them. We have over 45 porters. Before dinner we went down the
town for a beer, and some of them were shooting at a sign with slingshots they had
bought. Evevtually, Guy put a stone clean through the sign.f5
3.04.01. Today the sherpas brought us tea at 6 and we had breakfast at 6:30. I left at 7,
and reached the ridge at 9. View of Makalu. I stopped, had some of my lunch, and
was joined by most of the others. Had fun following guy at high speed along the trail.
I am starting to feel really good. Stopped at Chichila --- beautiful spot on the ridge.
Good day. Two germans came down with tales of Shipton pass being closed by 2 feet
of snow, but I don't think we'll have problem.
Guy said that Time Magazine sent someone to Everest base camp to write an article
about how much garbage was there. But there is no garbage there --- nevertheless, he
took a photo of AC's temporary garbage heap, and wrote the article he had been sent
to write. f6
4.4.01. Beautiful views in the morning of Chamlang and Makalu. I left at 6:45, and
ambled by myself for a while, and then with various people. Stopped for 2 hours at
the highest point to read and admire the view. A few rhodadendrons were in bloom.
Then ambled down to Nun about 3pm. Probably walked for about 4 hours.
We discussed whether our group could maintain Iranian formation for even 30
seconds --- the consensus was no. f11 (actual reading on camera).
5.4.01. Left at 6:30. For a while, a Nepalese women walked behind me so I could here
her radio. Heard news of the collision between Chinese fighter plane and an American
surveillance plane. Reached the river at 7:30, and reached Sedua at 9:30. As I arrived
3 porters arrived carrying 90kg of mainly beer. The rest of the members straggled in,
followed by the porters.
Spent the afternoon reading and drinking beer.
Katie and Jonelle are providing entertainment to the party. The rest of us get on quite
well, except Keith and his sons are causing problems by arriving late to all the meals.
JC keeps to himself a lot, but is pleasant. Takashi is a great guy. Rob is witty in the
American way, but a bit superficial. Bryan has a sardonic sense of humour. Mark,
Hamish, and Bruce are friendly young guys. Guy is doing a great job of letting things
run in a suitably anarchic fashion.
I am enjoying the trek in except, as usual, I would rather be going faster.
6.4.01. Quite a lot of haze, even the morning. Felt a slight cold come on during the
night --- Keith as most of the NZers have colds. So far, it only amounts to a sniffle.
Left at 6:35 and walked up to the mani wall. There rested, and several of the others
arrived. Reached Tashigoan at 9:45 and had a beer with Rob. The women and Keith
and his two sons arrived, and we had an enjoyable lunch together. The others went
with Takashi to see some famous bee hives, but didn't get a very good view. My right
hip became quite sore after I arrived, so I took 3 aspirins. As usual, my left knee is a
little stiff, but that isn't a problem. f14.
7.4.01. Bothered a little by noise from Tibetan dancing during the night. Morning was
beautiful --- very clear. Left at 6:30. As usual, fun conversations with Takashi, Katie,
and others going up. Some magnolia and rhodadendrons flowering. Surprisingly, ran
into a lot of snow after a while. Many porters for a big group were coming down,
some with instep crampons. One woman had fallen, and had cut her face. I continued
up in the snow in my running shoes without significant problems, and reached
Kongma at 10:30. I felt good --- I had taken 2 Tylenols. Had beer --- 200R. Rob and
JC arrived after about 15 minutes. Two very young porters arrived with their loads,
dumped them, and went tobogganing on plastic sheets (boy aged 11, girl aged 15).
Keith's children arrived after 7 hours (Lawrence 17) and about 9 hours (Alex 13)
looking exhausted. The contrast was remarkable.
To my surprise, I felt the altitude (3500)---felt very slightly sick for a little while.
Porters arrived late, especially those with my bag. Thereafter I carried my tent (c 3kg)
myself.
It's a little disconcerting to be camped on snow and still have 5000m to go.
8.4.01. Weather was good in morning, but rapidly became a bit dubious. Switched to
my walking shoes (NB972), which felt better on the snow than my running shoes (NB
1300), but less than ideal. The route looked a little scary, but fortunately there were
good tracks all the way. Reached Mumbuk just before 12, so it took me almost 5
hours, which is the guidebook time. There was some danger --- many places a slip on
the icy snow would have been serious, and in some places the tracks were not good.
Rob was there about half an hour earlier. Pitched my tent, and took a nap. f25.wb6,3
9.1.01. Felt bad for a while during the night with cold, slight headache, slight nausea.
Some cloud in the morning, and the barometer is down slightly.
There was snow on the descent through the trees, which made it tricky. Then across
the slides --- beautiful views of Makalu. Crossed the river in about 3 hours, had some
lunch and watched a helicopter land (this is where we stayed in 1996). Was opposite
Nehe Kharka in another hour. Here I almost got lost by following the trail across the
river, but we waited for some sherpas. Reached the hut where we had lunch in 1996,
but there was too much dung and we carried onto a beautiful campsite about 20
minutes further on (5 hours, c3900m). I was feeling a bit grungy from my cold early
on, but I finished fast. Put up tent (which I had been carrying) and relaxed. About
3:30 (over tea) we heard that Alex was in trouble --- he was moving extremely slowly
and was exhausted. We sent down some porters to carry him up to our camp. He
arrived at 6:30, just on dark. The porters carried him only for about the last half hour
(my pace). Although he is only 13, Alex weighs 170lbs. Fortunately, tomorrow is a
fairly easy day to a little past Shershon to where our bags were helicoptered, and we
spend a day there to acclimatize.
Cold has reached the coughing stage. I hope I can get rid of it in the next two days. It
and the altitude are making me feel a bit grungy. f28.
9.1.01. Cold has moved to throat. I am worried about it. Weather clear in the morning
with beautiful views of Peak 6.
Alex is obviously not going anywhere. Guy, Hamish, and Keith stay, and they send
out for a helicopter.
I set off at 7am. I reached Yak Kharka at 8am, and had a cup of tea. The weather was
still very clear, but the clouds were starting. I walk very slowly, but without stops
except towards the end. I pass Shershon (4600m) at 11am, say hullo to Katie, and
continue on. I reach our campsite near the American base camp (c4700m) at 12:03 ---
as usual, the walk had taken me about 5 hours. Rob arrived about 10 minutes before
me and most of the rest about an hour later. Put up my tent and enjoyed its warmth.
My cold had given me very unpleasant severe sore throat during the walk. I am a little
woried --- it is reminescent of 1995 when I had bad coughing problems.
Guy radioed while we were having tea, and they arrived an hour or two later.
The Americans have already lost one of their 6 climbers to severe altitude sickness.
They had to use their Gamow bag to save a Korean climber who had been more-or-
less abandoned by his companions.
Each evening, we have dinner together, which takes about one and a half hours. The
food is very good, and the banter often amusing, but the conversation is bit tiresome,
since it lacks any depth and consists in part of telling dirty jokes. f33.
11.4.01. A rest day. My cough was very bad during the night, but in the morning my
cold seemed much better. Weather perfect in the morning. So far we have been
extremely lucky with the weather. The parties before us complained of bad
weather.wb 0,4.
Guy finished Breshear's book; he said he writes well, but, on the topics on which he
has first hand knowledge, B heavily slanted things to make himself look good.
Guy on Boukreev's book: he hasn't read all of it, but what he has read doesn't sound
like Boukreev; for example, at base camp B announced he was the only real climber
there, whereas the book has him saying how much he enjoyed meeting x and his
charming wife, etc..
Guy on Krakauer's book: he writes extremely well; for example, he is very good at
setting the scene etc.; however, there are things he doesn't agree with. To understand
K you need to know that he hates his father, who is a rich doctor, and therefore all
doctors and the rich. In particular, he is very unfair concerning the doctor on the
expedition. In his book, K doesn't mention his collapse on the summit ridge, nor that
Beck Wethers asked him to help him (K. told him he wasn't a guide, and continued
down).
Guy says that in all the accounts of 1996, people lie about the events, and he doesn't
understand why.wb9.
Weather was cold, breezy, and snowy in the afternoon. Cold continues: cough,
sinuses.
12.04.01. Fine again in the morning. Tea at 5:30 as usual, and breakfast at 6. I left up
the valley at 6:50 so slowly that I was soon passed by everyone, including the porters.
Walked up a fairly good trail to Hillary base camp. Not long after, we crossed the
glacier on moraine. The trail was hard to follow, except that the porters knew it. Soon
headed right up a side valley. I lost the way for about 20mins because I didn't cross to
the north side. At this point only Rob and JC were ahead of me. Basically, I followed
a porter up. Amazingly, some porters had already dropped their loads and were
coming down (but they started about 6am). Rob and JC stopped for a rest, and I
reached the camp site before them at 12:10. (Rob was almost simultaneous, and JC
was 5mins back.) I helped Rob put up a North Face V25, the sherpas put up a big
MacPac for me, and JC took a big MacPac that was already setup. The others started
arriving about 1:15, and everyone was here about 3:30.
It was a very good day for me: a good walk and my cold didn't bother me; in fact it
feels a little better. It is great to be at base camp (c5700; GPS).
Many of the others have headaches or lightheadness from the altitude, and JC skipped
dinner. No one had a big appetite for dinner. Guy believed the Kiwi woman probably
made the first ascent of Everest by a woman without oxygen. The film of our
expedition will be on US TV, perhaps May 6, 2002.
I feel quite good except for cold. Finished film 1.
13.4.01. Still some headaches etc. at breakfast, and most didn't sleep well. Keith had
Cheyne-Stokes breathing.
Left at 10:10 up Makalu to test my new Koflachs. Passed a Spanish climber who said
they had been at base camp for 6 days. He was moving very slowly. Boots feel quite
good. This time I had no blisters, but I tied them a bit tight.
"True happiness is impossible without solitude. The fallen angel probably betrayed
God because he longed for solitude, which angels do not know."
Chekhov (p407).
Snowed in the afternoon. wb5,8.
14.04.01. Slept from 8pm to 5:30am except for two pees. I seem to be the only one
sleeping well. Cold/cough somewhat better in the morning --- I'm no longer much
worried about it. Brilliant sun and 4in of snow in the morning. Breakfast was very
late. Left for a walk again to test Koflach's and new snowglasses. Both worked very
well. In 50min reached a spot before serac danger. Took some photos and returned.
Talked to Chileans. They had fixed a little rope over a boulder, but otherwise said
there was no difficulty to their camp 1 at 6200m (GPS). They had come down from
their camp 2. Seemed nice guys --- asked me whether I was a guide. Base camp is
5600 (GPS Chilean)
After lunch, Guy told us his plans. Sunday 15th puja; 16th to ABC (c. 6200m) and
back; 17th rest; then a lot of up and down; establish camp 2 on Makalu La (7400) and
acclimatize there for a couple of days; down to base camp and rest for a couple of
days; then to camp 1, camp 2, make a camp 3, then summit (May 11). So from April
18 to May 11 is 24 days of real climbing, perhaps the climax of my climbing career.
In the afternoon, I prepared some of my gear and got Bryan to make some loops for
me to connect me to the fixed rope (with a carabiner and (Petzl jumar) f4.
wb9,11.
15.04.01. As I wake up am feeling a little gloomy. In what sense will I have climbed
Makalu if I use the fixed ropes put up by the Sherpas and the tents, food, and oxygen
carried up by them? Since I shall have to use the fixed rope for protection, and that
requires one hand, if I don't use the ropes to help me up the mountain, then I'll have to
climb the mountain one-handed.
Also, I'm somewhat unhappy with the inconvenience and hassle of a big expedition.
Instead of making myself coffee and breakfast when I wake, I have to walk over to
the Sherpas tent and scrounge some when they wake (about 7:30). On the mountain
I'll have the inconvenience of sharing a tent. Finally, I seem to be acclimatizing faster
than all these hotshots. I've been the only one healthy and energetic enough to go for
long walks. Many of others still have headaches and don't feel very well. The same
goes for the other groups, which got here before us but the Koreans and Spanish don't
seem to have gone anywhere, and the Chileans have only set up a camp 2 at 6400m.
For myself, I'd like to climb up to Makalu La (1800m) in about 6 days, spend 3 days
acclimatizing there, come down and rest for 3 days; then go back up to the summit in
4 days (16 days vs 26 days in Guy's plan).
In the morning we had a puja--- I think the Sherpas asked permission from the Gods
to climb the mountain. It consisted of putting up prayer flags, chanting, a fire of
juniper brought up from below, and some ritual eating and dispersal of food. It was
cold during the ceremony. The Chileans came over, and we had a pleasant chat.
After dinner Katie Deans and Jonelle left to hitch a ride on a helicopter to go trekking
in the Khumbu. Katie had had a persistent altitude headache at base camp, and so they
had abandoned their plan to cross East Col, West Col, and the Amphu Labasta. Katie
Deans has a section at Wye creek, and enjoys climbing the local moutains. I said I
would climb Earnslaw with her in 2004, on the 50th anniversary of my first climb.
She is descended from some of the first arrivals in NZ.
Guy went to a meeting with the other teams, and came back with words of praise for
the Chileans and anger for the Koreans (as being arrogant and uncooperative). It was
warm and sunny in the afternoon.f7. wb1.
16.04.01. Bad night. After midnight I suffered from mild CS breathing --- every few
minutes I would have to breath hard, which would wake me from my doze.
I worried that, if I left at 8:30 with the others, I would end up walking down a
crevassed glacier, so I decided I would try and leave after the 7am breakfast.
Confusion! Guy had told us breakfast would be at 7am but had told the Sherpas bed-
tea was at 7am. Eventually left at 7:35, about 45 minutes behind the sherpas.
Climbed loose rock between the seracs. Had fun jumaring up a 10m fixed rope over
an icy boulder. Followed the sherpa tracks in the new snow, and then onto the easy
snow. It was awesome to be alone up there with Makalu's giant W face to my right.
Eventually saw 12 climbers ahead of me --- the Koreans and our 4 sherpas. Continued
up crevassed slopes to below the final slopes at about 10:35 (c5800m). There was a
traffic jam, so I returned down. By now the Chileans, Spanish, and our group were
coming up. Rough ranking of fitness: Guy, Bruce, Bryan, me, Rob, Keith, Mark, JC,
Takashi.
Saw the Chileans on the return to base camp. I arrived back quite tired at 1pm.
Rested. The Sherpas carried everything to camp 2 by mistake.f9
17.04.01. Another bad night with CS breathing, mild sinusitus (pain and swelling at
back of nostrils), and continued coughing (although the cold itself has gone).
Guy had fruitful conversations with the Austrian and Iranian parties --- we work
together on the fixed ropes. We have 500m of fixed rope, and the Austrians gave us
400m more. A trekker with the Austrians suffered a stroke and had to be evacuated;
also a climber was evacuated (K & J went on their helicopter).
16F in morning. Weather was sunny but windy in the morning, sunny at midday, and
later cold. Many of the others showered, but I rested hoping to get rid of whatever ails
me.
Tomorrow, we go up to camp 1 for 2 nights, and then perhaps to camp 2 for 1 night,
before returning to BC for 2 days. Our strategy is to go slowly and acclimatize well.
Guy said that even a large (6 ft) snowfall would clear in a few days. I should be
excited, but I'm a bit worried about not being completely well. First signs of cold
began on 6th (11 days ago).
18.04.01. Miserable night from CS breathing and sinusitus. Cold/cough however,
perhaps a little better. Rest day.
19.04.01. Today we moved from BC (5700) to camp 1. I left at 7:35, and climbed
easily with my pack (maybe 25lbs) to where I had left my crampons. I spent 20 min
having lunch, and putting my gear on. Walked up to the bottom of the fixed ropes. On
the ropes I had problems. First, I had to wait for Takashi and Mark in deteriorating
cold weather; then, after starting I had to wait for our Sherpas to descend; because
everyone had told me it was easy, I draped my trekking pole and ice axe off my left
wrist, which turned out to be awkward; an Austrian with a light pack insisted on
passing me; finally, my right crampon fell off and I had to climb the last few metres
without it. Next time, without these mishaps, I think I too will find it easy.
Reached camp 1 at 1pm tired and in bad weather. The sherpas had erected 5 tents, and
Mark assigned me one --- a big Mac Pac --- which I shared with Takashi. I spent the
afternoon resting.
20.04.01. Rested. Mainly I hibernated (actually read) inside the tent.
Camp 1 is on the edge of a plateau, where one could land a ski plane if it weren't so
high. The views, of course, are spectacular. It is about 6300m.
21.04.01. It was 13F in the tent. My cold was no better. After some hesitation
because of the high wind, we left about 11am for camp 2. The Sherpas had put up at
least 3 tents.
I left first, and was rewarded with having to break trail for the others. I stopped before
the fixed ropes to put on my crampons and other gear, and to wait while those who
had passed me climbed the fixed ropes. Finally left before only Rob and T.. Climbing
the fixed ropes was hard work because they were long, the last part was very steep,
and the footsteps in the ice were barely sufficient. As I neared the top, the wind
revived, and it became extremely cold. From the top of the ropes, it was only a plod
in a gusty high and very cold wind to the camp (we had 4 large Mac Pac tents; at a
strategic point I had put on my down jacket). Guy helped me take off my crampons
and install myself in my tent. Takashi struggled about 10min later.
22.04.01. Rested. Views were even better than at camp 1. T. and I share a tent again.
He more-or-less insists on cooking, which means we get mainly Japanese food, when
he wants it.
Takashi has had an altitude headache ever since we left Tashigaon. Rob also has
some altitude problems, and so the two of them went down about midday. Guy
vomits for the second successive day, but generally seems O.K..
My cold continues to worry me --- much coughing, and now pain from the sinuses at
the back of my nose.
[Initially, Guy had numbered the camps ABC, 1, 2... but we persuaded Guy to change
it 1,2,3... to agree with everyone else. Because of this confusion, the Sherpas had
carried all the camp 1 food and gear to camp 2. It hadn't occurred to them to question
the monster carry.]
21.04.01. Acclimatization day. I have the large Mac Pac tent to myself. The food I
have to eat is excreable: no breakfast food, 4 identical Japanese soups, 2 barely edible
cheesy somethings. I am angry, especially when I discover that everyone else
(including Guy) had grabbed the good food.
Cold was improved. I spent the day reading, with rare excursions outside for the view.
23.04.01. Cold improved. It was very windy in the morning, as usual. Guy, Bruce,
Rob, and Mark left about 10am and, with their skis, were down in about 2 hours. I
left at 10:30, and was down in 2 3/4 hours. Keith and JC came later. There was an
extraordinary number of climbers on the mountain --- a new party of Italians has
arrived. It was good to get down to the comforts of base camp.
Guy obviously doesn't like Ed Hillary a whole lot: instead of working to make it
easier for young NZ climbers to go on expeditions etc., he is more intent on
maintaining his reputation as the NZ mountaineer of all time.
23.04.01. Rest day. In bed from 8pm to 8am, sleeping most of that time. I have my
second wash of the trip.wb4,5.
At tea, Guy talked about the 1995 Everest expedition. They reached the S Summit,
and Guy continued. The snow on the top of the ridge was bad so he kept on the face;
then a 20--30 foot wide cornice collapsed behind him. Since it was late (12:30) they
decided to return. Chantelle collapsed, so (I think) Guy gave her his oxygen and
helped her down. Eventually, the Sherpas took over, while Guy helped Doug Hansen,
who was falling over every second step. It got dark, but they found a bottle of oxygen
left for them by Viesteur --- this allowed him to put Hansen on 4l. per min, so that he
now fell over every second step. He got back to the camp at 9:30pm, and spent the
night with Rob Hall keeping the two alive.
Apparently, the Kunde hospital is completely funded by Canada, but Ed. Hillary still
goes around raising funds for it. So where does the money go to? To Ed's expense
account? Would his tax returns have been audited if he wasn't Ed. Hillary?
26.04.01. Slept like a log for about 10 hours. Beautiful morning --- sunny with little
wind, but it clouded over in the afternoon. Guy was in a bad mood at lunch, especially
with me.
Tomorrow we go to camp 2; then we rest one day; then we go Makalu La and return
to base camp in one day. In the afternoon we packed our food for the excursion --- the
sherpas will carry it up.
Began snowing after lunch, and by 5:30 there is a couple of inches on the ground, but
it doesn't look serious. f15.
"I am plodding and hopelessly reading Crebillon... I do not believe that I shall once
again fine the youthful boldness for a grand and blind general survey, I am drowning
in material and scruples..." Klemperer, July 28, 1933.
25.04.01. Weather looked unstable in the morning with winds and partial overcaste,
so we remained at base camp. In the afternoon, Keith made an hour long telephone
call to his (ex) wife, the gist of which seemed to be that she was trying to wangle
more than the $29,000,000 he was offering her. Later, I went for a walk to test my
Koflach's with one light sock plus one heavy. Seemed fine.
I'm getting a bit bored, as I thought I would, with all the sitting around at camps that
are too high to be comfortable; also, with the communal meals, where everyone seems
to have run out of new things to say.
Concerning the climb, it will be spectacular to get to Makalu La. If I can make a
strong attempt on the summit, I think I will judge the trip a success.
The method of climbing --- no climbing rope, only fixed ropes--- is new to me (and
Mark, but he is a semi-professional), but I'm starting to get the hang of it. I think will
be able to hold my own (especially using oxygen).
26.04.01. Fine, so we leave for camp 2, c1050m higher. I leave at 7:10, and reach the
spot where I left my crampons at 9:10. Spend 15 minutes there and continue up and
start on the fixed ropes. After I wait for two Sherpas to descend Keith is right behind
me. About 20m from the top of the fixed ropes I'm surprised to see him beside me,
attempting to pass me by climbing over to the fixed rope put in by Guy. Almost
immediately, he falls on the steep ice, and only saves himself from a possibly fatal fall
by grabbing my foot, thereby knocking me off the fixed rope on to my jumar and
knocking my crampon off. Takashi, who was just below us on the other fixed rope,
helped Keith back onto the fixed rope, and helped me put my crampon back on. Keith
has injured his knee, and we go to Camp 1, where we have a tent to wait for Guy, who
has been doing some filming.
Keith's decision to pass me in a dangerous fashion only 20m from the top of the fixed
ropes is inexplicable to me. We had left BC at about the same time 3 hours earlier,
and sometimes he had been ahead and sometimes me. So what had induced him to try
to pass me there when we were only a few minutes from easy ground?
Keith knee had failed, causing him to fall --- he hadn't injured it in the fall. Guy
diagnosed the injury as serious --- in particular, his kneecap had much more
movement than it should --- and told Keith he would have to return to base camp.
Keith wanted to go to Camp 2 and hope that it healed with rest. Guy escorted Keith
down.
[Keith returned to BC without difficulty, where a doctor confirmed Guy's diagnosis.
Keith was escorted down to the other MBC by two sherpas the next day. He
experienced considerable pain during the latter part of the descent, which took 8
hours. The next day he went by helicopter to Kathmandu. The day he descended, a
Korean who had contracted pulmonary edema between camps 1 and 2 also descended.
but he couldn't afford the helicopter.]
I climbed from camp 1 (c. 6300m) to camp 2 (c. 6750m). Apart from on the fixed
ropes, I pretty much kept up with everyone else.
27.04.01. Rest day at camp 2. I shared a 3-man Mac Pac with Takashi. Unfortunately,
in such a tent, you can't really see anything, so you might as well be camped on the
moon. Apart from about an hour working on my crampons I read. Feeling a bit down
--- bored by the expedition, and not even excited by the magnificent views of Everest
and Lhotse or by the thought of climbing (toward) Makalu La tomorrow.
28.04.01. Beautiful windless morning. I leave at 8:30, after everyone else. Beautiful
walk across shelf, then up easy slope to the fixed ropes (9:30). Climbed easy fixed
ropes to a rock (10:40). Waited for Willie. He said JC had been unwell, and hadn't
gone far. My estimate from his altimeter was that I had climbed about 270m --- less
than half-way to the La. Nevertheless, I descended so that I could get back to BC
without exhausting myself. I made a very slow descent, and didn't get back to BC
until 4pm. I had my usual trauma on the fixed ropes: the usual one was frozen into the
ice and I couldn't get my figure of eight onto it. Instead I descended Guy's rope, but
the second section was also frozen. I contemplated crossing to other rope, but the
memory of Keith's fall inhibited me. Fortunately, a sherpa going up on the other rope
freed it for me. Then I got tired and upset on a traverse, and need some hand holding
from some descending Austrians. I was extremely tired by the time reached BC --- I
had to stop for a rest twice while crossing the almost flat final slopes.
Near the bottom, I discover I've left behind my orange bag with the things I wanted to
bring down --- ascender, glasses, ... --- as well as my wallet, green card etc.. Takashi
remembers seeing it in the vestibule, and Guy radioed the Sherpas to put it inside my
tent.
The others, following the same logic as me, stopped about 200m below the La and
made a rapid descent: most were in BC only shortly after me.
A bad day for me --- 270m in 2:10 starting from 6750 isn't bad, but on Mustagh Ata I
snow-shoed up 600m in 4:00 from 6800, and my exhaustion on the descent was
ominous. The big test is going to be the climb (with personal gear) from camp 2
(6750m) to camp 3 (7400m). The first 450m is easy, but the final section is 200m up a
steep icy couloir. I need to regain my enthusiasm for the mountain.
29.04.01. Rest day at base camp. I slept 10 hours. My cough is still bad, especially
after an energetic day, but is not really a problem. The morning was beautiful. We sat
outside to have breakfast, and we had a group photo taken (alas, too late for Keith).
Guy discussed philosophies of climbing: the Slovenians and other E Europeans have
the best climbing record, when measured in new ascents of difficult routes, but they
have an appalling fatality record. Guy is not interested in that game.
He talked about 1996 again. When Neil Beideman got down he said that lots of
people did bad things up there. Guy said that Boukreev's story that Scott Fisher told to
him to go down early was a lie: in fact, Scott Fisher had said that he was not going to
hire Boukreev again because he would do his own thing instead of acting responsible
as a guide. Guy had tried to figure out why Rob Hall had not been able to find a full
bottle of oxygen at the South Summit and had concluded that someone (probably Leni
????) on the Mountain Madness team had stolen an AC bottle. So now these people
are getting rich writing books about the deaths of people they helped cause. Probably
Beideman knows the full story; he is a straight arrow, but he is not talking. [In 1992,
Guy almost got into a fistfight on the South Summit with two Russians --- they were
jumping a queue for a fixed rope and one was using a stolen AC oxygen bottle.]
30.04.01. Only a so-so night sleeping --- uneven breathing returns --- but I was
hungry at breakfast. At lunch, Guy explained the next phase. Tomorrow we go to
camp 2, and then, after resting one day, we go to camp 3. We spend a night there, and
then return to BC. Basically, anyone who doesn't get to camp 3 is out. Rob, JC, and I
are all very nervous about getting to camp 3 at 7400m. JC and I learned to use the
radios so that if we have to return to camp 2 we can signal this.
For myself, if I was feeling as good as I was on Mustagh Ata, when I went from
6200m to 7400m in 6 1/2 hours, I would be quite confident. However, on my last trip
up the mountain, despite all the acclimatization, I didn't feel that good. I just have to
hope that I rise to the big occasion.
In 12 days we should all be back at base camp and packing to leave.
Warm, but partly cloudy in the morning; light snow or rain in the afternoon.
1.05.01. Left 7:45am for camp 2. Reached the rest spot where we put on crampons at
10am (2:15 --- 15 minutes slower than last time). Left 10:30. By then, the others were
all ahead of me except Hamish and Guy, who were filming. My Petzl, borrowed from
Guy, was slipping badly near the top of the first fixed ropes. Earlier it had been sunny
and hot, but, as usual on the fixed ropes, it became windy and cold. Reached camp 1
at 1:15 (5hr + 30m versus 4:30 previous time). I continued on and reached camp 2 at
4:15, about an hour after everyone else. Again, 3hr vs 2:30.
Unhappy about prospects, since I was obviously deteriorating rather than
acclimatizing (getting faster). I almost decided to quit the expedition, but hoped that
perhaps I had had a bad day.
2.05.01. Rest day. Spent the day reading in my tent, except that I went out for a short
walk. The AC high altitude food was very bad --- except the porridge and 2 muesli
bars per day, most of it had a very high fat content 50--80% which is the opposite of
what it should be.
3.05.0. Set off with sleeping bag etc. for Makalu La. JC had already decided to quit,
and headed down --- he also was deteriorating rather than acclimatizing. I was
climbing not badly --- only a little slower than the Sherpas --- but after 150m it was
clear to me that I wouldn't reach Makalu La. I told Guy that I was quitting, dumped
my pack, and continued up. However, a little below my previous high point, I
decided it was pointless, and returned. As I was packing my bag (with difficulty), the
weather turned bad, so I decided to wait. Bryan came down, having run out of
energy. Later, the weather improved and he went down, but I felt lazy, and stayed.
There is something strange with my fluid balance. I drank enough water last evening
so that I urinated a couple of times during the night. Nevertheless, I was very
dehydrated in the morning. To Takashi's astonishment, I drank 4 pint mugs of weak
tea. Nevertheless, my mouth was dry when I set off. I drank a pint on the climb, and
more when I returned. Nevertheless, I didn't pee until 2pm.
4.05.01. Snowed lightly most of the night. I was still badly bothered by uneven
breathing (CS). About 9am, Guy got down from camp 3, and I got ready to descend.
Left about 10am. There was about 6 inches of new snow, but others broke trail, and I
got down about 1pm.
Talked with JC and Guy about options. I just want to get back to Kathmandu (math)
and Ann Arbor (more math).
Gossip: The Koreans and Spanish made unsuccessful bids on the summit --- the
slopes to the couloir were too icy. The Spanish reached c8300m, where they were
stopped because they hadn't climbed the French couloir. Several parties are now
moving up to attempt it.
5.05.01. Slept quite well, but still bothered by uneven breathing --- it will be good to
get down to a lower altitude. Guy and Ang Tsering arranged two porters for me. JC
and I said farewell to everyone, and left at 12:30 and reached the other MBC (4700) at
5pm. Spectacular view of Makalu from there.
Our porters are very friendly and helpful --- one (a Sherpa) had been working as a
helper for us, and the other (a Rai) for the Chileans.
An indication of our deterioration: we had climbed up in 5:20 but it had taken us 4:30
to descend.
6.05.01. Had a good night's sleep with no breathing problems for the first time for
many nights.
JC, the 2 porters and I left at 6:35am. In the morning, the weather was perfect. I
stopped every hour for a rest and a drink (we didn't bring a stove, so hydration was
difficult. The walk in the morning was one of the most beautiful of my life. Later it
clouded over and became foggy. At Yak Kharka the couple were working in their
vegetable garden, so I didn't stop for lunch as I intended. Just before the bridge, I met
a group of Nepalese who looked as though they may have been returning to their
summer/monsoon home. Also met 4 trekkers. Just before Mumbuk, met large group
of porters going into BC with almost empty baskets. Arrived Mumbuk at 5:20, so
10:45, but I was not very tired. Began raining and porters hadn't arrived, so I got into
JC's tent. One porter (with sleeping bag) arrived at 7pm. The other, with tent, at
8:20, using headlamp --- I think he had been drinking rukshi with his friends (he just
said he had met a friend). JC said I had coughed for 3 minutes and immediately
started snoring. I moved to my tent.
7.05.01. Not raining, but overcaste in the morning ---- it had rained quite a bit in the
night. Left at 6:35. Went slowly at the start with plenty of rests, and felt tired. There
was a lot of soggy snow, despite a woman trekker telling me there wasn't. Eventually
speeded up, especially when light rain began before I reached Shipton Pass. Slogged
on through the snow. Reached Kongma in about 7 hours, about 5 of which was spent
on soggy snow in my light walking shoes. Stopped for tea and biscuits. Left 2:30;
down to Tashi Gaon at 5:20. Rain heavy at times during descent. Met JC in first
lodge.
Four leeches had attached themselves to me --- one I removed immediately; the
second a kid saw and pulled off me after it had gorged itself; the remaining two had
already dropped off leaving a wound.
Asked lodge owner to find me a replacement porter for one returning to BC. Good
dinner.
8.05.01. I slept well, but JC complained of snoring, especially by my Sherpa porter
and the third occupant of our dorm room.
Couldn't find porter --- the Sherpas of Tashi Gaon don't like to work as porters in the
hot areas below. One porter carried to Sedua (300R).
Walked down to Sedua in about 2:45. A small black snake slithered across the trail in
front of me. Eventually found JC and my Tashigaon porter. Found porter to
Tumlingtar by accidentally offering 1500R whereas standard pay is 1200R. Then
Sherpa porter hobbled in with sprained ankle. I paid him 500R, and he was going to
hobble back in 2 days to his village. Found second porter --- the local Sedua juvenile
delinquants, but they were happy porters. They had lunch and packed for trip --- one
brought nothing but a water bottle (no clothes or money). Left 11am, and reached
Num at 4pm. On way saw a young man who had just shot at a bird with a large
shotgun --- I don't think he was a Maoist. I was tired walking up huge number of
stone steps in heat. Had beer. Stayed at Makalu Lodge. Lodge man thought I was 80
years old! JC had eaten there and gone onto the next village (Mure). [He was unable
to find a place to stay, or even give him a cup of tea, and spent an uncomfortable night
in his tent in the rain.]
10.05.01. Rain was very heavy during the night and in the morning. Bought some
plastic for the porters and left at 7am, Fortunately, the rain soon became light, or
stopped altogether. Apart from a few very heavy showers, that's how it remained all
day. Views early were interesing with patches of fog, but later I was mainly in dense
fog. Stopped for lunch at Chichila, and left at about 1pm. Saw many frogs on the
trail. The porters and I descended in heavy rain to Mani Bhanjang, where I stayed in
the Everest hotel --- pleasant owner.
10.05.01. Rain stopped during the night. Left 6:30am in good weather for
Tumlingtar. Down 9am and found JC staying in the least reputable hotel (the one we
had stayed in on the way up). He told me of his travels through the storms of
yesterday as if I had not also travelled through them. He had met two army patrols,
one of which had two prisoners.
He had confirmed that we had reservations but, because of some mix-up, he hadn't
been given the tickets that Wilderness Experience (AC's agent) had sent to the hotel 4
days earlier, and we had to pay the $72 fare.
Reached hotel Garuda, and was able to get on tomorrow's flight to Bangkok.
11.05.01. Called NW in Kathmandu. Am wait listed for 12th and confirmed for 13th.
Flew to Bangkok. NW office closed. Called (telephoned) after 9pm, and found I
could go standby on the 12th and, since the plane was far from full, would certainly
get on.
12.05.01. Left Bangkok at 6am, and was back in DTW at 1:30. Home by 2:40pm.