THE SADIE FAMILY Viti- _ Viniculture
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1
THE SADIE FAMILY
Viti- & Viniculture
COLUMELLA
Origin - Swartland
Produced by the Sadie family
‘The most excellent wine is one which has given pleasure by its own natural qualities,’
observed Lucius Junius Moderatus Columella; ‘nothing must be mixed with it which
might obscure its natural taste’. This timelessly valid judgement appeared over two
millennia ago, in Columella’s treatise on farming De re Rustica (‘On Country Matters’), the
most comprehensive account of Roman viticulture. It is a fitting definition of a wine
named to honour Columella, a wine carefully nurtured to express its origins in the soils
of South Africa’s Swartland region, and first made from the 2000 vintage.
Our philosophy and our wine
With Columella we are not aiming at one of those heavily extracted products of near-
raisined grapes that are currently fashionable in some quarters and measure their success
through gold medals and 100-point scores. We strive after a wine that is fresh,
flavoursome and refined, harmonious and balanced; which offers a sense of the place of
its origin; which provides drinking pleasure, at the highest level of quality, at any stage of
its life: the wine-drinker’s eagerness for a further glass is the measure of our achievement!
What allows the ‘natural qualities’ of ‘the most excellent wine’ to give pleasure? First,
grapes as close to perfection as possible, which demands small yields of highest quality
fruit and meticulous attention in the vineyard. Second, those grapes must be treated with
utmost care, and vinified with the least possible intervention, respecting each vineyard’s
difference and allowing this character to emerge and to blend with other characters to
achieve a higher complexity. Columella is, above all, a wine of its vineyards.
The region and the vineyards
The Swartland region stretches north of Cape Town, between Durbanville and Piketberg,
inland from the Atlantic Ocean, centred on the town of Malmesbury. Importantly, the
area has a remarkably stable climate, allowing us to achieve a consistent level of quality
each year, in subtly different vintage conditions.
Initially identifying fine vineyards may be the most difficult element of the wine-
producing process. To achieve it demands commitment to the notion of terroir – that
unity of all the natural components that influence the vine and, ultimately, the grape
itself: soil, geology, landscape, and climate. Coming to understand the complex
interactions of all of the myriad components – as well as the crucial effect of human
intervention - is essential to liberating great wine.
The distinction of Columella derives from its terroir, the character of the vintage, and a
restrained winemaking programme.
We fully control seven leased vineyard parcels spread across the Swartland district,
mostly planted with syrah, with a tiny parcel of Mourvèdre. Syrah, we have found, is the
most expressive grape in the Swartland, and gives the highest degree of finesse.
Viticulture is carried out under the control of Eben Sadie, including pruning and canopy
management. About half of the vineyard comprises bush vines, the remainder being
trellised; most are situated on sloping land. No artificial irrigation is used: natural rainfall
is a vital aspect of the vintage character we want to emerge. While irrigation can
p.o. box 1019, aprilskloof road 7299, paardeberg, malmesbury, south africa
baixa font 12, torroja del priorat, 43737, priorat, spain
south africa. tel: +27 21 8698349 fax: +27 21 8698101 / spain. tel: +34 696 146246 fax: +34 977 828057
united states of america. fax: +91 {707} 220 4692 / united kingdom. fax: +44 {0} 870 136 4680
sadiefamily@mail.com
2
THE SADIE FAMILY
Viti- & Viniculture
sometimes be useful in extreme situations – particularly when establishing a new vineyard
- it too often leads to over-vigorous growth and diluted grapes. We prefer to respond to
different vintage conditions in ways other than irrigating – by, for example, thinning the
crop more in a particularly dry year. Our yields are always extremely small, usually
averaging about 25 hectolitres per hectare. (Interestingly, this modest figure is fairly close
to Columella’s assumption 2000 years ago that a well-managed vineyard will yield at least
20 amphorae per iugerum.)
All our vineyards are equally important: a vital element of Columella is the complexity
resulting from the blending of wines of different sites, with each parcel vinified separately
according to its own demands. We aim to build, over time, an even more diverse
portfolio of soils, aspects and meso-climates.
The soils
Grapes for Columella are grown on many of the different soil-types of the Malmesbury
area, including the three most important soil structures associated with the region:
Decomposed slate – These well-drained soils occur in tiny outcrops across the region.
Generally they are based on clay subsoil, which increases water retention capacity, thus
making water available to the vine later in the season – an important consideration in the
absence of irrigation. The vine is then able to ripen the grapes to perfect physiological
ripeness, giving an ideal must weight, acidity and pH, with stable phenolics. At the low
yields we farm for, the slate soils deliver wines of great concentration, colour and texture:
the most complete of the single soil types. The intensity of these parcels of wine means
that they are usually matured in the greatest percentage of new oak – even 100 percent,
as in the 2001 vintage. They form the base of the final Columella blend, making a vital
contribution to the mid-palate.
Decomposed granite – Such soils are common in the Malmesbury region. They are well
drained, either with clay or (in the more mountainous areas) rocky sub soils – both types
contribute to Columella. As the granitic soil with the rocky subsoil tends to dry out
severely towards the end of ripening, rigorous control of yields is vital – vines from this
soil for Columella deliver a mere 16-18 hectolitres per hectare. Avoiding imperfect
ripening and dehydration of the grapes in this way, such soils can produce wines of great
depth and concentration, with ripe and silky tannins, rich blackberry and spice aromas,
and more developed ‘farmyard’ flavours. Vinification is greatly influenced by the
character of the vintage; in some years the wine might be aged in as little as 20 per cent
new wood, while in cooler years it benefits from up to 100 per cent. The granitic soils
over clay sub soils are more resistant to drought, and deliver wines with fresh flavours of
red berry and cherry, with a higher acidity that further enhances freshness. To preserve
the fresh fruitiness, these parcels are aged in 20 to 40 per cent new oak.
Table Mountain sandstone and slate/clay mixtures – These soils are found in variable
proportions. The best parcels are those with high clay content, sometimes highly
saturated with iron minerals and elements as a result of rising and falling water tables. A
tiny parcel that is blended into Columella is situated in the Darling Hills, towards the
coastline, and the prevailing southeasterly wind results in slightly cooler conditions than
are found in the other sites. The soil’s moisture content has to be regularly monitored,
and strict yield control is also required for perfect ripening – we allowed only 14hl/ha in
2001, and 25 hl/ha in 2000. This site delivers wines with intense cassis and toffee
aromas, the intense dark berry flavours marked from the early days of fermentation. The
wine is usually aged in about 45-65 per cent new wood.
p.o. box 1019, aprilskloof road 7299, paardeberg, malmesbury, south africa
baixa font 12, torroja del priorat, 43737, priorat, spain
south africa. tel: +27 21 8698349 fax: +27 21 8698101 / spain. tel: +34 696 146246 fax: +34 977 828057
united states of america. fax: +91 {707} 220 4692 / united kingdom. fax: +44 {0} 870 136 4680
sadiefamily@mail.com
3
THE SADIE FAMILY
Viti- & Viniculture
Vinification
What is most important to remember in vinification is that nothing of essential value can
be introduced – but a great deal can be lost. The ‘winemaker’ cannot, in fact, create: we
have to understand the soils and what they produce, and learn the best means of
preserving what we receive from nature’s vineyards and delivering its potential as fine
wine. Eben Sadie is responsible for the vinification of Columella.
The vinification process starts in the vineyard, as the maturity level of the grapes is
carefully scrutinised. Because Columella is a physically small project, it is possible to
maintain complete control over the ripening of vineyards, despite their spread across the
Swartland. Monitoring ripeness is less a matter of technical analysis than of observing the
physical condition of vine and grape. Summer in un-irrigated Swartland vineyards is no
light matter, and the vines are reaching their limit by the end of ripening. It is of supreme
importance to pick at peak maturity, to ensure grapes of the highest level of phenolics,
while avoiding over-ripeness.
Picking takes place in the first few hours of daylight. The grapes are picked into flat
boxes containing about 15 kilograms, and transferred to a refrigerated truck, to be
transported to the cellar as quickly as possible. There the grapes are kept at 5–8°C until
early the following day, when a team of some 20 women, who let only the perfect grapes
through into the final bin, painstakingly sorts them. These are destemmed and about 50
per cent crushed. After a further examination for any remaining stems, the must goes to
covered tanks, where it is allowed to ‘cold soak’ for two to four days. At all stages, the
grapes from the different vineyard parcels are vinified separately.
Fermentation in open-top wooden fermenters of 2500 litres occurs naturally, with native
yeasts, and therefore tends to be slow, taking up to three to four weeks to complete.
Fermentation temperature is controlled, usually at 24–26°C, depending on which
vineyard’s grapes we are dealing with. As fermentation progresses, the skins are
repeatedly punched down (‘pigeagé’) in the age-old tradition – we believe that pumping is
not suitable at any stage for our grapes!
After fermentation, maceration on the skins is allowed for anything up to three weeks,
depending on the vineyard, meaning that time taken from crushing to pressing can be
anything from five to seven weeks. The grapes are pressed in a tiny basket press and the
wine is transferred with buckets into oak barrels, where it will undergo malolactic
fermentation. The wine is then racked - through an elaborate (not to mention time-
consuming and primitive) process, relying solely on gravity to move the wine.
The wines are blended either after the completion of malolactic fermentation or after
about eight months in cask. Maturation is in fine quality French oak barriques. The
wines stay in barrel for 20 to 24 months, depending on the vintage, and are racked every
three or four months. Columella is bottled without being fined or filtered.
Bottling and storage
Bottling is the only aspect of the whole production process for which we think high
technology is appropriate. When ready for bottling, what the wine needs is a secure home
in which it can mature and, if necessary, travel. Columella is bottled in imported bottles
with consistent neck diameters to ensure a good seating for the carefully selected corks.
The wine is bottled under vacuum, which removes excess air to help prevent oxidation,
and also avoids bottling under pressure, which might cause later problems. Once the
corks have fully expanded, the wine is laid down to mature (at 14-16°C) for a further six
months when it is labelled and packaged in six-bottle wooden boxes.
p.o. box 1019, aprilskloof road 7299, paardeberg, malmesbury, south africa
baixa font 12, torroja del priorat, 43737, priorat, spain
south africa. tel: +27 21 8698349 fax: +27 21 8698101 / spain. tel: +34 696 146246 fax: +34 977 828057
united states of america. fax: +91 {707} 220 4692 / united kingdom. fax: +44 {0} 870 136 4680
sadiefamily@mail.com
4
THE SADIE FAMILY
Viti- & Viniculture
Notes on Columella 2000
Seventeen 225-litre barrels of Columella 2000 were produced – just over 5000 bottles. It
was bottled in January 2002 after 22 months of maturation in wood.
At its release in mid 2002: the wine displays a variety of flavours – initially dominated by
blackcurrant and black berry, with marked spicy herbal overtones. Fresh red fruit
dominates the secondary spectrum of flavours. A dense mid palate has weight and
texture, giving the wine the necessary volume to support the flavours, and allowing for a
lingering finish. The wine reflects the full ripeness of the grapes from which it was made,
and ripe-textured tannin and fresh acidity combine and harmonise with the fruit to make
a well-balanced wine.
At two years of age, Columella 2000 is still very young, with many years of development
potential – we are confident that, well stored (in dark vibration-free conditions,
preferably as cool as 15°C), it will age well for up to 15 years. If it is drunk in its youth,
we would recommend that it should be slowly decanted at least two hours before it is to
be enjoyed. As the wine ages, the shorter the time needed for decanting. (Careful
decanting will also take care of the sediment, which might, with time, be precipitated in
this wine.)
A generously proportioned glass will help bring out the best in Columella - we find the
416/30* Riedel Syrah glass particularly well suited to it. Serving the wine at about 16-
17°C will foreground the red fruit aromas and make for a more restrained palate. A
serving temperature of 18-19°C will reveal more of the blackcurrent and blueberry
flavours and the palate will seem expanded. Much experience lies behind our
recommendation that you serve Columella at about 16.5°C and drink the wine as it
warms up to 19°C: in this way a journey of flavours and textures can be enjoyed!
The producers
Columella is the only wine produced by the Sadie Family. Eben Sadie is responsible for
work in the vineyards and cellar. Prior to striking out on his own, he had worked, as he
says, ‘in firms that make six millions of liters of wine and ones that make seven barrels
and have always had a good time – but the best times have been with the tiny projects,
and for now I am happy to do just that.’ He spent eight years ‘roaming the world in
search of answers’, and has worked with wine in Germany, France, Spain, Austria,
Oregon and California, as well as his native South Africa. In this way (much more than
through his formal training in viticulture and vinification) he developed what he calls ‘the
sense of wine – the most important of all qualities needed for involvement in any aspect
of the life of wine’.
p.o. box 1019, aprilskloof road 7299, paardeberg, malmesbury, south africa
baixa font 12, torroja del priorat, 43737, priorat, spain
south africa. tel: +27 21 8698349 fax: +27 21 8698101 / spain. tel: +34 696 146246 fax: +34 977 828057
united states of america. fax: +91 {707} 220 4692 / united kingdom. fax: +44 {0} 870 136 4680
sadiefamily@mail.com
5
THE SADIE FAMILY
Viti- & Viniculture
A note on the name and the label
Why an ancient Roman in modern Swartland? Columella, as mentioned earlier, was one
of the most important writers on viticulture and vinification in early Rome. Through his
work and direction, many grapes made their way up the Rhône – on whose steep
northerly banks syrah is now produced in its purest form. ‘And as syrah forms the basis
of our wine’, says Eben Sadie, ‘and as I am fascinated by Columella and admire his work
and his understanding of viticulture – well, why not?’
The decision to use Latin on the label followed on from the decision on the name. ‘I
could not have “Columella” with English words – it would be like having punk rock as
background music in the Louvre...!’ The modern trend with back labels is to use a great
deal of poetic license in describing a wine. Sadie says he would ‘rather save my drinker
the labor of reading. Rather let him or her concentrate on the contents of the bottle.’ If it
is thought that the text might enhance the taste of the wine – ‘have it translated, if
necessary!’
p.o. box 1019, aprilskloof road 7299, paardeberg, malmesbury, south africa
baixa font 12, torroja del priorat, 43737, priorat, spain
south africa. tel: +27 21 8698349 fax: +27 21 8698101 / spain. tel: +34 696 146246 fax: +34 977 828057
united states of america. fax: +91 {707} 220 4692 / united kingdom. fax: +44 {0} 870 136 4680
sadiefamily@mail.com
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