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On the Trail of
America’s
Best Tasting
Rooms
T H E R E ’ S N O B E T T E R W AY T O
EXPLORE WINE COUNTRY THAN
FROM THE SNUG COMFORT OF A
TA S T I N G R O O M . T R Y W I N E S ,
S O M E A VA I L A B L E N O W H E R E
ELSE, VIEW SPLENDID VINEYARD
PANORAMAS AND ENJOY THE
HOSPITALITY OF PEOPLE WHO
KNOW THE WINES FROM THE
GROUND UP.
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The tasting room at Hazlitt 1852
in Hector, New York
W
hat better way to meet a wine for the first time than to savor it mere steps from where it was made? Many wineries have tasting
rooms that are open to the public, where you can sample the wines, usually for a modest fee, with the option of purchasing
bottles on site. The tasting room staff is prepared to discuss the wines as you sip them, and they may offer materials with which
you can take notes. The tasting room experience should, at the very least, offer an informal, pressure-free environment. At its
best, it can be much more.
To say the following tasting rooms, most on the grounds of a winery, are America’s “best” is a bit of magazine bombast. We
asked our editors and contributors to suggest tasting rooms that were memorable to them for any number of reasons. Wine
quality was paramount, but we also considered décor, staff savvy, amenities and more ephemeral characteristics, such as overall
quirkiness or warmth. Obviously it’s subjective and we couldn’t include every tasting room in the U.S. But every tasting room here
guarantees a unique experience.
California
ARROWOOD VINEYARD & WINERY, GLEN ELLEN. Come for the great wines, stay
for the incredible views. While Arrowood is routinely praised for its wonderful
Chardonnays, Cabernets and late harvest Rieslings, the winery also boasts the world’s
PHOTO TOP KRISTIAN S. REYNOLDS
greatest veranda. This large New England-style deck overlooks well-tended, organic
vineyards and the oak-studded hills of the Sonoma Valley. It’s the perfect place to
sip and decompress. And, if you’re well behaved, the friendly staff might even let
you taste their hard-to-find Malbec or single-vineyard Syrahs. Ask about the private
tours and tasting options. (14347 Sonoma Highway; 800.938.5170; www.arrowood
vineyards.com; $5 and $10 tasting fees) —MIKE LYNCH
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FRANK FAMILY VINEYARDS, CALISTOGA. This has to be one of the
worst tasting rooms in Napa Valley—but one of the best tasting expe-
riences. Crowded into a dilapidated building, it’s probably the only
tasting room in Napa Valley that doesn’t charge for tasting any wines,
yet the wines are superb and the staff and visitors always have fun.
You start with sparkling wines, but you may be invited into the
crowded back room for the good stuff (don’t trip on the undulating
floor). Taste rich Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, Zinfandels and Caber-
nets, most sold only at the tasting room. Sadly for traditionalists,
tasting will soon move into an old house on the property, but the
winery will still probably remain locals’ favorite visit in Napa Valley.
(1091 Larkmead Lane; 800.574.9463; www.frankfamilyvineyards.com;
tasting complimentary) —PAUL FRANSON
J VINEYARDS & WINERY, HEALDSBURG. In this sleek, modern
tasting room, it’s all about the wine, and choices: Try four wines ($10)
daily. From Friday through Monday only, make a reservation ($55)
in the Bubble Room with its stylish décor and table service and
try either the Indulgence Flight (four sparkling wines) or the Russian
River Pinot Noir flight (wines available only through the winery)
paired with seasonal foods, as well as braised short ribs and Tsar
Nicoulai caviars. Beginning in spring, the J Terrace tasting ($35)
pairs sparkling wines and Russian River varieties with local cheeses,
patés and cured meats. For the ultimate J tasting, bring your friends
on a Thursday for a vineyard tour and seven-course food and
wine experience ($200 per person). (11447 Old Redwood Highway;
707.431.5430; www.jwine.com; $10–$200) —K.H.
LOUIS MARTINI WINERY, ST. HELENA. The rustic tasting room is
masculine, dark and mysteriously inviting. Lounge on plush velvet
chairs or at the old-fashioned bar and sample a rich Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon with its hint of cherry and spice. Proceed to the romantically
GARY FARRELL WINERY, HEALDSBURG. Don’t look for vineyards gothic underground cellar for a sparkling Moscato Amabile or the
here—the winery is set in a hillside grove of redwoods overlooking 55-year-old tawny Port-style wine. (254 South St. Helena Hwy;
the often fog-encased Russian River Valley. The wide-open tasting 707.963.2736; www.louismartini.com; complimentary tastings/$5 for
room shows all, or you can wander into the courtyard to soak up the specialty wines) —ALEXIS MCCOMBS
setting. The tasting flight of four current releases can certainly grab
your attention as well, especially the signature Pinot Noirs and Sauvi- MUMM NAPA VALLEY, RUTHERFORD. How do you decide where to
gnon Blancs. For an added fee, there is a daily morning tour of the end the day in Napa Valley? Go to Mumm. There is nothing more refresh-
winery and chalet-like barrel room, followed by artisanal cheeses ing than sparkling wine before heading to one of the extraordinary area
and special-release bottles. (10701 Westside Road; 707.473.2900; restaurants. Stroll through the art gallery and amazing photographs by
www.garyfarrellwines.com; $5 tasting fee) —ROGER MORRIS Ansel Adams, then settle into a table on the terrace and enjoy a trio of
wines. Watch the sun give its all to color the vines, the terrace and the
bubbles. Napans come here at the end of the day when crowds are gone
HANNA WINERY, HEALDSBURG. This Mediterranean-style (with the and the sunset is theirs. It’s hard to leave. (8445 Silverado Trail;
cozy feel of a craftsman bungalow) tasting room offers 360-degree 707.967.7700; tasting $5–$20, free winery tours, tasting discount coupons;
views of the winery’s Red Ranch vineyard, complete with wraparound www.mummnapa.com.) —ROGER VOSS
veranda. In a quiet corner, the reserve tasting ($12-$25) pours
five wines paired with charcuterie, artisanal cheese and relishes. Guests NICKEL & NICKEL, OAKVILLE. Appointment-only tastings are inti-
sit at a farm table in a setting rich with art (a local watercolor artist’s mate, not intimidating. Gather in the cozy parlor of the 1880s farm-
pieces are hung on the walls, an Oriental rug is spread below). house for crisp Chardonnay (no malolactic here), check out the cellars
Or pay $10 to taste at the bar. (9280 Hwy. 128; 707.431.4310; and transplanted New England barn, then sit down to a leisurely lesson
www.hannawinery.com; $10–$25 tasting fee; reservations for reser- in terroir. Winemaker Darice Spinelli makes 25 small-production wines
tasting preferred) —KRISTINE HANSEN from vineyards across the valley, including 11 Napa Cabs. Officially, you
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taste four, but your charm- RUBICON ESTATE, RUTHERFORD. Arrive at the entrance to Francis
ing host will happily pop Ford Coppola’s historic winery and they park your car for you. Mind
extra corks. Tip: Bring car- you, you have paid $25 (valid for three days, including tours), but valet
rots for Star, Penny and parking tells you that you are in for a sophisticated time. And that’s just
Pearl, the friendly equines in the paddock out front. (8164 St. Helena what this elegant winery and tasting room offer. There are beautiful
Highway; 707.967.9600; www.nickelandnickel.com; $40, allow two things to buy: unique, fun, wonderful hats, leather goods, silver and
hours) —BETTY TELLER ceramics, chosen by the Coppola family, mainly from Italy. At the
tasting bar, there is singing Tom, a former opera singer, to give extra
PRESTON VINEYARDS, HEALDSBURG. Blonde wood, high ceilings spice to the wines. For a more leisurely café environment, there is a
and seductive aromas of bread define this space, Lou Preston’s stage for wine-by-the-glass-with-cheese bar. Equally elegant, equally stylish.
his increasingly farming-oriented estate winery. Five dollars, refunded (1991 St. Helena Hwy; 800.782.4266; www.rubiconestate.com; tasting
with purchase, gets you a flight of four wines; don’t miss the robust red $25/five wines; winery and historical tours.). —R.V.
blend, L. Preston. Lou’s olives, olive oil, hot sauce (“Spitting Cobra”)
and pickles are the real thing, grown and made within yards of where
you taste them. Best day? Sundays, when Lou and wife, Susan, open Michigan
the cellar for tastes and sales of Guadagni Red, probably the best jug WINERY AT BLACK STAR FARMS,
wine ($30, three liters) in California. (9282 West Dry Creek Rd.; SUTTONS BAY. A visit here is more
707.433.3372; www.prestonvineyards.com; $5, refunded with purchase) than a sip of Lee Lutes’ Rieslings,
—MICHELE ANNA JORDAN Pinot Blancs and Pinot Noirs; it’s a
big gulp of Grand Traverse Bay
REVANA FAMILY VINEYARDS, ST. HELENA. At the tasting room of beauty, agriculture and hospitality.
tiny Revana Vineyards north of St. Helena, you get a rare chance to The mission is for visitors to partici-
taste two wines made by cult queen Heidi Peterson Barrett: the current pate, whether visually or sensually.
release of Revana Cabernet from the small vineyard surrounding the The timbered tasting room has win-
winery, plus an older vintage or one of the other rare wines Barrett dows that view the distillery and winery, and a creamery where a French-
makes at the winery—Amuse trained couple make raclette. The winery is clustered with a luxury B&B,
Bouche, Barbour Vineyards or equestrian center, farm market and farm animals for kids to pet. (10844 E.
her own La Sirena. Reserva- Revold Road; 231.944.1273; www.blackstarfarms.com; tasting compli-
tions are vital, and if you come mentary with purchase of souvenir glass, $3 per person, $5 per couple)
in the summer, you might —SANDRA SILFVEN
even be able to buy one of
the 500 bottles of Revana
rosé Heidi makes each New York
year. (2930 St. Helena High- BEDELL CELLARS, CUTCHOGUE. Urban-minded tasters burned out
way North; 707.967.8814; on quaint flock to the clean, minimalist lines of the Bedell tasting
www.revanawine.com; seated room—an apt reflection of co-CEO and New Line Cinema guru
tasting of two wines, $20, tasting with cheese Michael Lynne’s honed taste for modern
and charcuterie from the Martini House art. Originally a barn built in 1919, the
restaurant, $40) —P.F. space was renovated in 2001 with soaring
ceilings, sweeping vineyard views and
ROSSO & BIANCO, GEYSERVILLE. Fran- expansive walls on which to hang Lynne’s
cis Ford Coppola’s fingerprints are all over cutting-edge collection of artists like Uta
his tasting room, with recommended treas- Barth and Sarah Morris. The wines are
ures for purchase—from writing pads, classy but innovative and include white
pasta bowls and pepper pens (to sneak heat and red blends and the signature offer-
into bland dishes) to CDs and DVDS— ing, Merlot. A haven for artsy hipsters
tucked throughout the multileveled space who want a little bit country, a little bit rock and roll. (36225 Main Road;
surrounding the bar. There’s no tasting fee 631.734.7537; www.bedellcellars.com; tasting $5) —SUSAN KOSTRZEWA
for Rosso & Bianco (Pinot Grigio, Rosso Classic, Shiraz). Do not
miss the movie memorabilia—Oscar statues, a giant Martini glass, a HAZLITT 1852, HECTOR. This is an old-time Finger Lakes vineyard
bamboo cage and more on the way—just down the hall near the that turned to winemaking with Red Cat (Red Catawba) out of desper-
cafe. (300 Via Archimedes; 707.857.1400; www.rossobianco.com; ation during a grape glut in the early 1980s. The Red Cat attitude car-
complimentary tastings of Rosso, Bianco and Rosso Shiraz; other ries over today in a rustic, rambling tasting room where the popcorn is
tastings $10–$15) —MAJ free and blues and Jimmy Buffet tunes play nonstop. It’s more like a
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good-times pub and people have been known to hang out all day. The
Hazlitts now make fine vinifera, but haven’t forsaken their roots. Red
Cat is memorialized in a chant we can’t print, in posters as the original
hot tub wine, and the gift mart includes a Red Cat thong. (5712 Route
414; 607.546.9463; www.redcatwine.com; tasting fee $3, refundable
with purchase) —MORT HOCHSTEIN
Nor th Carolina
CHILDRESS VINEYARDS, LEXINGTON. Those who think NASCAR
and world-class wine don’t pair well haven’t been to Childress Vine-
yards and the speedily improving Yadkin Valley. Founded by NASCAR
team owner Richard Childress in 2004, the winery and tasting room
have quickly become a stand-alone destination in the Yadkin Valley
American Viticultural Area. Go for the Signature Tasting to reveal
WOLFFER ESTATE, SAGAPONACK. Though just over 10 years old, winemaker Mark Friszolowski’s best work to date. The Reserve Syrah
this 12,000-square-foot, Old World-style winery drips with the kind and the Signature Meritage are both sublime, as is the setting—a stone
of old money vibe that makes the South Shore so sexy to aspiring and stucco building, terra cotta-style roof and large tasting room, shop
blue bloods. Indoors, the tasting room and museum are supported by and The Bistro restaurant all reminiscent of Tuscany. (1000 Childress
100-year-old rough-hewn beams and look out onto vineyards through Vineyards Road; 336.236.9463; www.childressvineyards.com; tasting
lavish French doors. But Wolffer’s draw is the outdoor tasting on a $10–$15). —LYNN SELDON
vineyard-side patio whose view beats pretty much anything else you
will see on Long Island. Vines are maniacally manicured and attended, Oregon
knowledgeable staff bring flights at a leisurely, civilized pace. The CARLTON WINEMAKER’S STUDIO, CARLTON. This state-of-the-art
wines are award-winning and European in style. The whole shebang tasting room uses environmental and energy-efficient designs to create a
feels like a retreat at the summer home of your favorite baronial BFF.contemporary sipping space. High ceilings and sky windows project
(139 Sagg Road; 631.537.5106; www.wolffer.com; tasting from $6–$16; natural light into the airy warehouse-styled room. Metal truss rails were
tours $15) —S.K. taken from a dismantled department store and cream-colored wood
boards from old high school bleachers. Enjoy
Tasting Room Dos & Don’ts over 40 samples from resident winemakers
Deputize a designated driver. Do not feel you do. Don’t try to serve yourself or monopo- including Sparkling Brut and Messa-
compelled to drink everything poured for lize the bar if the room is crowded. Don’t crack lence—a Merlot, Cab Franc and Syrah
you. Drink responsibly. jokes about what an easy job the pourer has. blend. On Wednesday nights, pairings
Allow the pourer to lead you through the Drink water, and use water to rinse your glass, espe- are done with gourmet teasers includ-
tasting; it will most likely be white wines cially between the white flight and the red flight. Sip ing rice croquettes stuffed with
first, followed by reds and finally, if appli- water and take a bite of provided crackers or bread mushrooms and garlic aiolio, all
cable, sweet wines. Do not ask them to between wines, to clean your palate. pleasing to the palate.(801 N. Scott
change the order. There’s a reason why Ask for a second pour of something you like, but St.; 503.852.6100; www.winemakers
sweet wines are last: They’d make subse- be aware that it is a sign that you might want to studio.com; flights $5–$8) —A.M.
quently tasted dry wines taste bitter or purchase a bottle.
off. At the same time, do feel free to skip Spit, if you want—your host will not be offended. Pennsylvania
an entire flight (If you’re only interested in Cups or a bucket may be provided for the pur- CHADDSFORD WINERY, CHADDS-
the red wines, say so.) Don’t complain pose. If not, ask. FORD. A gloriously renovated 18th-cen-
about short pours or move your glass Don’t tip, unless you feel extraordinarily well taken tury dairy barn in the heart of Andrew
around while wine is being poured into it. care of, and unless you want. It’s not expected. Wyeth country, on the original William
Ask questions and engage the pourer. Don’t haggle about the tasting fee. If there is no Penn Estate, is the stage for Eric Miller’s
Offer your opinions freely, but don’t make tasting fee, and it is a small winery (or if you Burgundian-style Chardonnays and
faces at wines you find unpleasant or puz- receive extraordinary service) it would be courte- Pinot Noir, and rich, intense Due Rossi
zling. Don’t pretend to know more than ous to purchase at least one bottle of wine. and Merican. The barn has a crisp,
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colonial spit-and-polish that celebrates the building’s heritage and neigh- 512.858.1470; www.mandolawines.com; No tasting fee, but reservations
borhood. Stroll through the Reserve Tasting Room to peruse the Wyeth recommended at the restaurant) —W.M.
prints and 25 years of winery memorabilia, or take a self-guided tour and
pause in the café to nibble on Amish cheese with a glass of Cham- Washington
bourcin. (632 Baltimore Pike; 610.388.6221; www.chaddsford.com; $7 CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE, WOODINVILLE. Located on 87 wooded
tasting fee) —S.S. acres just 15 miles from downtown Seattle, Chateau Ste. Michelle
offers some of the West Coast’s best tasting and touring menus. Once
VA LA VINEYARDS, AVONDALE. The old barn housing the tasting facil- part of the farm estate of Seattle lumber baron, Frederick Stimson,
ity is a welcoming blend of rural and modern—stone walls, wooden the tasting experience at Ste. Michelle can be as casual or formal as the
beams and family photos of Italian immigrants complemented by gleam- varied visitors (up to 300,000 of them a year). Though it’s easy to enjoy
ing bar, real tasting glasses with generous pours and an upstairs Galleria the bustling atmosphere of the large tasting room and shop, go for the
for local artists and special events. Va La is known for its high-end blends Vintage Reserve Room Tasting ($10), which takes place in a separate
of northern Italian and Bordeaux varieties paired with locally crafted room, is hosted by a senior staff member and includes selections from
cheeses and breads. Knowledgeable, family-led staff conducts leisurely their single-vineyard and reserve list. (14111 NE 145th; 425.415.3300;
perusal of four wines. No tours, but lovely views of surrounding vine- www.ste-michelle.com; tastings range from complimentary to $50 for
yards. (8820 Gap Newport Pike; 610.268.2702; www.valavineyards.com; premium wines paired with food) —L.S.
$7 tasting fee.) —R.M.
Texas
HOMESTEAD WINERY, DENISON. Seventy-five miles north of Dallas,
sleepy Denison is famous in Europe for being the hometown of
T. V. Munson, the man whose rootstock saved the phylloxera-ravaged
European vineyard in the late 1800s. At Homestead Winery, Texas
legend Dr. Roy Mitchell makes his cream-style Sherry, the single most
awarded wine in Texas history. They also make an excellent Cabernet
to carry into the adjacent Albanian/Italian restaurant. Call to check on
availability of the Sherry. Dr. Mitchell only makes 100 cases per year.
(220 West Main Street; 903.464.0030; www.homesteadwinery.com;
Sherry tasting, $2; wine tasting, $3, both waived with purchase)
—WES MARSHALL
THE TASTING ROOM: WINES OF WASHINGTON, SEATTLE. Situated
MANDOLA ESTATE WINERY, DRIFTWOOD. Damian Mandola is the in an alley almost within fish-tossing distance of Pike Place Market
host of PBS’s Cucina Siciliana, as well as the author of three cook- proper, The Tasting Room features a wine cave-like European ambi-
books (Ciao, Y’all, Ciao Sicily and Ciao Tuscany). He’s built a winery ence, with varied-size tables for communal or personal tastings. They
devoted to Texas-grown Italian varietals and to make sure folks would currently pour wines from seven small, vintner-owned, respected Wash-
want to travel 30 miles from Austin, he’s added a top-notch rustic Italian ington wineries, like Harlequin and Wilridge (both feature creative red
eatery, a cooking school and a TV studio. The meandering grounds blends). They also offer wines by the glass and unique flights like Wash-
invite strolling, and the whole feel is più cosier. His wines have great ington Pride and Rainy Day Reds. (1924 Post Alley, Pike Place Market;
acidity to go with his food. Don’t miss the Syrah. (13308 Fm 150 W; 206.770.9463; www.winesofwashington.com; tastings $5–$15). —L.S.
Virginia
KLUGE ESTATE WINERY AND VINEYARD, CHARLOTTESVILLE.
Those who want to taste the best of Virginia’s wine country need to
know the name Kluge, as in Patricia Kluge. Vintner Kluge’s distinctive
touch can be seen in her Farm Shop tasting room and tasted in her
award-winning wines. Nestled into the woods near the vineyards, the
Farm Shop’s interior is made from clear Western Red cedar and offers
several distinct areas: a large tasting room; a toasty coffee nook with an
old-fashioned stove; a horticultural area with plants, topiaries, and a col-
lection of wine, gourmet, and gardening books; and a sumptuous artisan
cheese selection to complement wine tastings. The tasting area fea-
tures a sleek, hexagonal black granite bar. The Farm Shop also has a
picnic area, sun porch, a culinary herb garden and a mile-long wood-
land walk that cuts a path to the vineyards. (100 Grand Cru Drive;
434.984.4855; www.klugeestateonline.com; tastings $10). —L.S.
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