RockSolid FlooRS PRoFeSSional iS
an induStRial gRade SyStem tRuly
SuPeRioR to that oF any ePoxy
our patent-pending Rock Solid System™ will allow you to finish
a floor in hours - not days. your new RockSolid floor can
handle foot traffic in just 4 to 8 hours and vehicle traffic
within 24 hours. the Rock Solid Floors Professional grade
solution requires no training, allowing installers to launch
a career in the coatings industry without the up-front cost
of purchasing grinders and related equipment.
Rock Solid Professional consists of a 3-layer system. The first layer is the Rock
Solid Professional Polyurea primer-body-coat. The second layer is the decorative
chip.The third and final layer is the RockSolid Floors Professional clear Polyurea
topcoat. RockSolid Floors Professional is sold in 250 and 500 square foot kits
and comes complete with everything listed above to complete the installation,
including chips and RockSolid Floors Safe-Etch Solution to clean and prepare
the concrete prior to coating. The product is shipped in one gallon cans,.
Polyurea Top Coat
i m P oR tant! - F ol l oW th e S e S t eP S
beFoRe beginning the FlooR
P R eP aR at ion PR oce S S to e n S u R e
P RoP e R adhe Si o n.
testInG for sealer testInG for moIsture
Determine if the concrete has been previously sealed. This Moisture Vapor Transmission is the number one cause of
is done by a simple test of pouring a small amount of water failures in floor coatings. It is imperative that the moisture
onto the surface. If the water beads, a sealer is present and content be checked prior to installing any coating system.
needs to be mechanically removed with a diamond grinder This is usually done during the bidding process, which will
(available at a local rental store). tell you if moisture is a concern and needs to be remedied.
If the floor has been previously coated, you need to determine We recommend the Tramex CME 4 Moisture Meter to
if the coating is well adhered to the concrete (See Below). accomplish this. The noninvasive meter doesn’t require any
For coatings that are adhered, you can coat over the top drilling or waiting for results.To use, place the meter on a level
if you scuff sand using 40-80 grit sandpaper, vacuum the concrete floor and push down, this will give you an accurate
surface and wipe it down with acetone. If there are any areas reading inside the concrete - not just on the surface. The
of the coating that have failed, delaminated, peeled, or worn moisture meter will read between 0-6% moisture content.
through, always remove the entire coating using a grinder If the meter reads more than 5.5% moisture content, Rock
and start your installation with fresh, clean concrete. Solid Pro (RSP) recommends applying our Polymatrix Gel
Waterproofing to create a vapor barrier. This will stop vapor
testInG for drive and provide a better substrate for coatings. Utilizing
coatInG adhesIon this vapor barrier also allows you to coat “green concrete” -
concrete that has not reached the standard 30 day curing time.
1. With a razor blade, cut an X through the coating, It is best to wait whenever possible, as this curing period allows
down to the concrete. the initial high moisture content to drop or normalize.
2. Apply a 5” piece of duct tape over the X and press
**THIS METER DOES NOT HAVE
AN OFF SWITCH, IT WILL TURN
3. Completely remove the tape with one quick pull. ITSELF OFF A FEW MINUTES
4. If more than 10% of the taped area is removed, AFTER USE.THIS IS AN EXPENSIVE,
the original coating is not bonded well – it should DELICATE PIECE OF EQUIPMENT,
be removed mechanically with a diamond grinder. SO BE CAREFULWHEN HANDLING
if you sand or remove old coatings, you may release
lead dust. Lead is toxic. Exposure to lead dust can **MOISTURE TESTING RESULTS
cause serious illness such as brain damage, especially in ARE REQUIRED FOR WARRANTY COVERAGE,
children. Pregnant women should also avoid exposure. SO ALWAYS DOCUMENT THE CONDITION OF
Wear a niOSH-approved respirator to control lead THE CO
exposure, and clean up carefully and thoroughly with NCRETE YOU ARE COATING.
a HEPa vacuum and wet mop. Before you start,
find out how to protect yourself and your family by
contacting the national Lead information Hhotline
at 1-800-424-lead or logon to www.epa.gov/lead.
PolYmatrIX oIl sPots
aPPlIcatIon and contamInatIon
Use a full concentrate of a commercial grade degreaser
Polymatrix is a single component gel waterproofing to remove oil stains and contamination from the concrete
material. To apply, make sure that the surface is free of dust, prior to the application of any floor coating system. This
dirt, or any other contaminants. Wash the surface with should be done first upon arrival to the job site to allow
clean water to remove any debris. We suggest the use of a for the floor to dry thoroughly. Squeegee the water into
commercial grade degreaser to remove any oil and dirt the center of floor and utilize a shop vacuum to collect the
from the concrete. Once the substrate has been cleaned, water. Leveraging fans with assist in the time it takes for the
squeegee off excess water. Stir the material with a paddle / floor to dry. Test area by dribbling water on area cleaned. If
blade mixer for one minute before use. Completely saturate there are still areas of beading on the surface, it represents a
the surface with CFFS-Polymatrix at 200 sq. ft. per gallon possible contaminate (oil, wax or tire dressing). If water
using a low-pressure sprayer or by pouring it directly onto continues to bead on the surface, re-treat the stain and again
the floor. Move the product around on the floor with a until water no longer beads in that area. The use of a palm
stiff bristle broom or squeegee, and keep the substrate wet or belt sander is also recommended. Use rough, 40 or 60 grit
for at least 30 - 45 minutes. This allows the product to sandpaper to abrade the surface and remove oil stains, paint
penetrate the surface and create a vapor barrier. After 45 overspray, or built up dirt and grime. Always remember to
minutes, squeegee or broom the excess material from your vacuum up any dust and debris prior to applying the floor
surface, wait two hours, then flush the surface with water coating.
and squeegee to a dry surface condition.
Image of coating over
a contaminated surface
Surface hardeners like Cure ‘N Seal may have been added
to the concrete to provide a harder, more abrasion-resistant
finish. You can usually tell by looking for a shine on the
surface. Where a hardener has been used, surface profiling
needs to be more aggressive to expose the pores underlying
the hardened concrete. This will ensure that you achieve
good coating penetration and adhesion. If you come across
a floor like this, your normal means of preparation (acid
etching) will not work and you will need to rent a diamond
grinder to abrade the surface and open the pores of the
concrete.These grinders are available at local hardware stores
nationwide. The removal of sealers, and the costs associated,
need to be taken into account in the bidding process and
passed on to the customer. Some of these hardeners will be
very difficult to remove and could possibly add significant
labor costs to your application.
To ensure an adequate bond of our coatings, existing coatings and sealers will
need to be removed prior to installing RSP. The most efficient way to remove
coatings is renting a diamond grinder with PCDs (Polycrystalline Diamonds).You
may need to try different diamonds to find out what works the best. On properly
adhered coatings, it may not be necessary to fully remove the coating down to
bare concrete.You may only need to etch the surface to provide an anchor for new
coatings. Sand existing coatings using a swing machine or floor buffer with 40 - 80
grit sandpaper. Use an orbital sander to prepare the edges or verticals. Vacuum, or
use a leaf blower, to remove all dust. RSP also suggests a wipe down of the surface
with a solvent such as acetone or xylene to remove any latent dust and to soften up
the previous coating to provide co-adhesion.
The ideal temperature range when working with ROCK SOLID is 40°F - 90°F (4°C -30°C). Warmer temperatures can
shorten working time. Cooler temperatures will require longer cure times. Preparation of the concrete using the RockSolid
Safe Etch should not be attempted below 40°F. This preparation method involves using water to flush the surface and could
cause the formation of unwanted frost or extended dry times at temperatures near freezing.
Humidity can affect the drying time of the primer-body coat. Higher humidity will shorten the pot life of the material and
may cause it to set quicker. For installations in high humidity, we suggest that you enlist the help of another person to apply the
material to the floor faster. Note: If it is raining, or extremely damp conditions exist, it is not recommended to coat the floor.
If you sand or remove old coatings, you may release lead dust.
lead Is toXIc.
exPoSuRe to lead duSt can cauSe SeRiouS illneSS Such aS bRain
damage, eSPecially in childRen. PRegnant Women Should alSo
Wear a NIOSH-approved respirator to control lead exposure. Clean up carefully with a HEPA vacuum and a wet
mop. Before you start, find out how to protect yourself and your family by contacting the National Lead Information
Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or log on to www.epa.gov/lead.
concrete InsPectIon and inspect again. If water continues to bead on the surface,
re-treat the stain and scrub again until water no longer beads
Concrete is different in many areas of the country. Some in that area.
concrete is especially hard and requires extra etching to
provide an anchor for your primer-body coat. If you have Once you determine water is no longer beading, you are
soft and chalky concrete, Rock Solid Floors recommends ready to etch the concrete (Please see recommended safety
diamond grinding the surface with 20 - 50 grit diamonds practices located on container).Wearing gloves and protective
to remove the soft fines (particles) from the surface. For eye wear, slowly add one quart of the Professional Safe Etch
areas of the concrete that have spalling, chipping, or Solution to 2 - 3 quarts of water in a plastic watering can
cracking, use the Rock Solid Fast Patch Kit to repair and (follow manufacturer’s directions). Working in a 10’ x 10’
level the floor prior to coating. section of the floor, pour the etching solution and scrub it in
with a stiff bristle broom.The etching solution should fizz for
about 4 - 5 minutes while being scrubbed. If the solution does
not fizz, it means there is a sealer on the floor which must
be removed with a diamond grinder as previously discussed.
When the fizzing stops, hose off the solution and move on to
the next section. When all sections are completed, rinse three
times and scrub with a stiff bristle broom while rinsing again.
A wet / dry vacuum should be used to eliminate excess water.
To speed up the process, use a floor squeegee to push water
to the center of the floor before vacuuming. Do not leave
pooled water on the floor. Let the floor dry for at least two
hours with a fan operating to move air over the surface. Note:
PreParatIon Is KeY to See bottle for recommended disposal.
a lonG lastInG floor:
The Professional Safe Etch Solution is used to open the It is imperative that the floor be completely dry before
pores of the concrete, providing the proper adhesion required applying any coatings. Failure to follow this warning will
create application issues and possible product failure.
It will always be best to apply material over the shortest
distance possible. Using unfilled saw-cut control joints can
for a long-lasting floor. The etching is simplify your application by allowing you to break up your
required on all uncoated concrete floors, installation into smaller sections. If doing so, be sure to cut in
old or new. Etching is not used to clean edges carefully and do not overlap into a previously coated
the concrete; cleaning is done prior to area. Always establish a plan of attack before you mix the
the etching using a professional grade base coat material together.
degreaser available at your local hardware
store. Please be sure to wear the proper For wider areas, we suggest that you have two installers
protective equipment and follow the rolling the material out to expedite the process. Basically
manufacturer’s instructions. they will flip-flop around each other taking turns cutting in
edges, rolling, and broadcasting chip.
Thoroughly sweep out all the dust and dirt on the floor
and apply a mist of water to the surface. Lightly dampen the
concrete with water using a garden hose and spray nozzle
prior to etching.The concrete should accept the water evenly
and consistently across the entire surface to be coated. If there
are areas of beading on the surface, it represents a possible
contaminate (oil, wax, or tire dressing).These areas need to be
cleaned with a full concentrate or with a professional grade
degreaser. Scrub the area with a stiff bristled broom, rinse,
itEmS yOu WiLL nEEd:
RSP Primer-Body Coat Part A
RSP Primer-Body Coat Part B
RSP Decorative Chip (Optional)
RSP Polyurea Top Coat Part A
RSP Polyurea Top Coat Part B
Paddle or blade type mixer (3)
Tarp or Poly
18” 3/8” nap Roller ( professional quality) (2)
18” Adjustable Roller Frame w/ Extension Handle (1)
2.5 Quart Calibrated Mix Buckets (2-3)
1 Quart Calibrated Mix Buckets (2-3)
18” Paint Tray (2)
3” Paint Brush (3)
Flat Head Screw Driver (1)
Disposable Rubber Gloves (Nitrile) (2 pr)
Protective Safety Glasses (2)
When wearing the spiked shoes, great care must be Spiked Shoes (2 pr)
taken when walking and rolling out product. The
DO NOT USE 9” ROLLERS
spiked shoes allow you to walk in the wet coatings and move
wherever you want, as well as cross-roll the wet material
prior to chipping the floor. When wearing spiked shoes,
great care must be taken to move slowly, be aware of your the rocK solId floors
surroundings, and concentrate to avoid any type of slip / ProfessIonal sYstem
fall hazard. While applying the coating to the substrate,
remember to keep your feet close together and always bend rSP PrimEr/BOdy COat aPPLiCatiOn
your knees. It will be best to “lock” your lower body and For each application of the RSP Primer/Body coat,
try not to push off with your feet to reach far away areas. As nEVEr mix more than HaLF of 1 (one) kit at a time.
always with the spiked shoes, pretend your shoelaces are tied The corresponding quantities for this will be 20 oz. of Part
together at about 18” apart and always walk flat-footed. A combined with 40 oz. of Part B. For ease of measuring
using 2.5 quart calibrated buckets, the best quantities to
mix will be 16 oz. of Part A combined with 32 oz. of Part
be caReFul not to SteP B. The time it will take to apply this mixed quantity will
on any electRical coRdS basically be the pot-life of the material. Mixing more than
oR vacuum hoSeS, aS this recommended amount can result in the product setting
up in the mix bucket and / or later difficulty in applying the
thiS Will damage them material. It should take about 10-15 minutes to roll-apply
and PoSSibly PoSe an the 48 oz. of mixed material. Anything longer than this
electRicution haZaRd can lead to inadequate chip coverage or spotty floors. Chip
to you. be mindFul oF should be broadcast into the wet material no sooner than 20
minutes after it is cross-rolled to provide the best coverage
WheRe you Walk When and maximum adhesion to the floor.
WeaRing SPiked ShoeS.
Prior to mixing, it is important to remove the lids from both
the A and B sides of the RSP primer/body coat and mix
or stir them separately. This should be done prior to use
every time to ensure that every pour will feature the full
chemical properties of the material. Failure to do so can lead
to extended cure times, soft-cured product and / or product
** Mixing the material is imperative - It only takes a
minute or two, and can save a lot of headaches.
** Always use a different mixer to mix the two parts of the
primer/body coat. Using the same mixer can cause product
contamination and/or premature curing.
Combine the recommended (one foot to 18”) when coating larger surfaces, so you don’t
quantities of the Primer / create a line in your floor. Apply material and broadcast chip
Body Coat Part A (16 oz.) to the entire area being coated at a uniform rate, making
and Part B (32 oz.) in a 2.5 sure to maintain even material thickness.
quart calibrated bucket. Use
a blade or paddle style mixing ** Remember that, when on spikes, you can walk wherever
wand to mix the materials for you want. This allows you to stand in the wet material and
at least 1 minute at medium roll towards the back or side walls to keep a uniform cross-
speed. Be careful not to whip roll direction.
the product or mix too fast
as this will draw air and moisture into the product, thus ** Broadcasting chip immediately after cross-rolling
decreasing the pot-life. Pour the majority of the mixed displaces the material, causing inadequate adhesion to
material into an 18” roller pan and retain some in the 2.5 the floor. Waiting 20 minutes gives the RSP time to
quart bucket to cut in the edges. Using a 3” chip brush, cut pre-cure to the substrate and eliminates the possibility
in along the back wall and four feet out along both side walls. of chips displacing the material; it also provides the
Saturate an 18”x 3/8” nap roller with material and roll a 4 most desirable finish to the floor.
(four) foot section along the whole back wall. This is best
done by dipping the roller and spreading the material in an coatInG of vertIcal
M and W pattern. Once the four foot section is coated, you
should cross-roll the coating to ensure even thickness. Start surfaces wIth rsP
at the back wall and simply drag the roller perpendicular PrImer/BodY coat
to your original roll. Overlap your cross-roll by about 4-6
inches, and continue this process until the entire section is When a job requires the coating of stem walls, curbs, stairs,
opaque in color and even in appearance. or walls, it is always beneficial to complete these first. This
will make it easier to clean up and recover loose chips. The
** Always roll in the same direction at all times. This will application for the various vertical surfaces will always be
create a uniform base coat and eliminate any thicker areas the same, with a few small variations. It is important to keep
on the floor. your wet edge and only apply chip to areas that are ready for
** Cross-rolling the material is imperative. Failure to do so this step. A minimum 6” of wet edge is a good rule to follow.
can result in thick spots that will hold more chips or For small batches, always remember the mix ratio for the
quartz and change the texture of the floor. primer / body coat is 1A:2B.
** Cross-rolling can be done from either side, and should
be done as quickly as possible to allow for broadcasting
** Always remember to blend boxes of chip together prior
to broadcasting them into the floor. Some batches can
vary slightly, and you need to make sure that the entire
floor has the same texture
and appearance. Keep enough
five-gallon buckets on hand
to blend chip and cover the
entire floor without having
to pour out and blend in the
middle of the application.
Broadcast decorative chip into
the wet material 20 minutes
after cross-rolling. This is best done by holding a five-gallon
bucket of chip in one arm and simply throwing handfuls of
chip into the air with the other. The higher you throw the
chip the more it will spread and lay out. This will make it
easier when it comes to cleanup time. Continue to apply the
product following this method. Always keep your wet edge
BlocK stem walls and sheetrocK or other
wood staIrs tall walls
The best practice is to mix a small batch of RSP and basically Best practice is to mix a small batch of RSP and basically
“paint” the entire surface to be coated. Spread the material paint your first coat on the entire surface to be coated. This
thick enough to be opaque. Block stem walls are very porous, can be done with a roller or by brush. Wait about 5 - 10
so you will have to monitor the material to see if it soaks minutes and apply a second coat in smaller increments (if
into the surface. If the material appears to be soaking into needed). On larger surfaces, you will be able to wet out the
the block, you may have to put a second coat on as you are entire area and then simply “baseball style” throw the chip
cutting edges for the floor.* You will should wait 20 minutes into the wet coating, remembering to wait 20 minutes to
to “baseball throw” chip into this material, so make sure you allow material to pre-cure. Be advised there will be a lot of
are keeping an eye on the clock.** In most cases, you will be loose chip going everywhere when you are throwing chip.
able to wet out an entire surface (approximately 450 square Again, be careful not to leave wet spots.
feet) before throwing any chip. This allows you to coat the
block, stairs, and floor all at the same time! Make sure not to
leave any wet spots.
** DEPENDING ON THE HEIGHT OF THE BLOCK
OR STAIRS,YOU MAY BE ABLE TO PUT ON
THE SECOND COAT WITH YOUR 18” OR 9”
ROLLER. THIS IS DONE ONLY IF YOU HAVE
TAPED OFF THE WALL BEFORE HAND AS
IT IS VERY DIFFICULT TO MANEUVER THE
ROLLER WITHOUT COATING AN
** SOME INSTALLERS WILL USE A SIMPLE
KITCHEN TIMER TO KEEP TRACK OF
concrete stem walls
Best practice is to mix a batch
of RSP and basically “paint”
the entire surface to be coated.
Spread the material thick enough
to be opaque.You may only have
to coat this surface once. Again,
keep an eye on the material to see
if it soaks into the surface. If that
happens, coat the surface again
while cutting the edges for the
floor. Follow the same procedure
as above. Wait 20 minutes, and
then “baseball style” throw chip
into the wet material. Don’t
leave any wet spots.
test for cure
** It will always be a good idea to label boxes of recovered
Cure time of the RSP will depend on a few things, such as chip “recovered.” That way the next time you use the
temperature and humidity. Always wait a minimum of one chip, or grab it off of the shelf, you will be aware that
hour before attempting to walk on the floor, and do so only the chip has been used and could possibly have small
after checking for cure. To do this, clear away the loose chip contaminants in it.You should naturally be more careful
that is not bonded to the floor using your hand by brushing in checking this chip to remove any of debris before
it off.With your thumb, press down on the chip and base coat further work.
and try to spin the material. If the material moves or you feel
tacky product underneath, the base coat has not fully cured
and should not be walked on. If the chip and base coat do not
move, it is safe to walk on the floor and prepare for clean-up.
After all of the good chips have
This test should be done in several areas in the section that
been recovered, use a 14” metal
was last completed. The science behind this test relates the
scraper to lightly scrape the floor
thumb spin to the balls of your feet. If the material will spin
in one direction. This knocks down
under your thumb with very little down pressure, imagine
uneven chip and levels the floor.
what it will do under your full weight when spinning your
After the floor has been scraped in
foot or kneeling down.
one direction, turn perpendicular
and scrape the entire floor again in
** Do not attempt to walk on the floor before it is cured.
the other direction. Use a smaller
Doing so may damage the floor.
metal putty knife to detail the edges
and floor drains as well as any vertical surfaces that have been
** One way to expedite curing is to use the leaf blower to
coated. Smaller scrapers will follow the contour of the floor or
blow chip off the last area of floor completed. This
wall closer and prevent any scarring of the chip. The purpose
facilitates more air flow over the wet material. This
of doing this is to create a nice flat surface to apply your clear
should be done no sooner than 30 minutes
coat to. Failure to scrape will lead to increased product usage
after completing the chip broadcast.
and sharp, heavily textured floors. There is also the possibility
of picking up and distributing loose chip that will lead to
Blow chIP inconsistent floors and poor finishes.
Whenever possible, use a leaf
blower to blow the loose chip that Blow chIP
did not bond to the floor into a
corner for recovery and reuse. The Once the floor has been scraped in both directions, again use
leaf blower works best, because the leaf blower to accumulate the scrapings. Blow the chip
it will not break the chip up and fines into a corner again and recover them with a dustpan to
create powdery fines. dispose of them. This chip will vary in size and should not be
saved and used again. Blowing the scrapings into a small area
will allow for easier cleanup. You then only have to vacuum
the area where the loose chips are, saving a lot of time.
recover vacuum chIP
Once all of the loose chips have Vacuum the area where the loose
been blown into a pile, simply chips are located, paying special at-
scoop them up using a putty knife tention to clean shelves, cabinets,
or a dustpan to return it to the window sills, and anywhere else
chip box. This chip is still good, loose chips might have gone dur-
and it can be used on the next ing your broadcast. Clean the floor
floor you coat of the same color. well, and vacuum the edges where
Any chip that is broken up or the floor meets the wall. The main
seems to be smaller in size should goal of this step is to leave the floor clean with no loose chip
be left out of the recovered chip box. That will ensure chip to be found.
size consistency the next time you use the chip.
fInal Blow Mix only 1 (one) Kit of topcoat material at a time for this
application. This will be done by simply pouring the entire
Starting where the pile of scrapings was located, use the leaf contents of Part B (after mixing them separately) into the Part
blower to push any loose chip that the vacuum might have A container. Use a paddle or blade style mixing wand to
missed to an area that will not receive the Top Coat (this mix the two components together for at least 1 minute at
could be the driveway if doing a residential garage or an medium speed. Be careful not to whip the product or mix
area that will receive coating later in an industrial applica- too fast as this will draw air and moisture into the product,
tion). The chip can then be cleaned up before or after ap- thus decreasing the pot-life. Apply the material in a thin and
plying the final coat. The main goal, again, is to remove any even coat using an 18” x 3/8” nap roller, remembering to
loose chip that could still be on the floor prior to coating. cross-roll the material from the same side to lay it off. Use a
If this final blow cannot be done, you will have to vacuum 3” chip brush to cut in edges as you go.
the entire floor in both directions to achieve similar results.
rsP PolYasPartIc Anti-slip aggregate, such as dry silica sand, aluminum oxide,
toP coat or quartz, should be applied to the wet top coat to provide
traction if required by the customer. We suggest applying
Application of the RSP topcoat will be the same as the RSP an anti-slip aggregate to every floor for liability reasons.This
Primer / Body coat in that it will be roll-applied. You can should be done in conjunction with the top coat. To apply,
follow the steps listed above to mix the material, cut in edges, simply walk back out onto the wet coating, being very careful
and roll and cross-roll the topcoat not to slip or damage the surface.Then take small pinches of
for an even finish. When applying silica sand and broadcast evenly to the floor. You will want
a top coat over a chip system, you to throw the sand high up in the air giving it a chance to
can also use a squeegee and back- randomly disperse across the surface. Continue to apply the
roll technique. This will give the anti-slip sand while you are finishing the top coat. Be careful
floor a thicker and more uniform not to use too much as doing so will diminish the shine of
shine and appearance, but will the floor and cause inconsistencies in the overall finish.
require the purchase of additional
RSP Polyaspartic Top Coat Kits Always apply caution tape to protect your site, and let the
to make sure you have enough to homeowner / owner know when it is safe to re-enter the
complete the installation. Over a solid color floor or a partial coated area.
broadcast chip system, you will simply roll the top coat on
following the same application techniques as the base coat. A Return-to-service time will vary depending on the
cross-roll will be required to eliminate roller lines. temperature at application. Suggested return-to-service
times are 24 hours for vehicle traffic and 4- 8 hours for
** THE MIX RATIO FOR THE RSP POLYASPARTIC regular foot traffic. Never walk on the coating while it is
TOP COAT IS 1 A: 1 B. tacky or sticky. Ensure floor is cured before returning to
Prior to each use, mix both A and B sides well using separate
blade or paddle-style mixers. Just like the base coat, only mix
one RSP Polyaspartic Top Coat Kit at a time. For clear-coating
vertical surfaces, stairs, and curb-block mix small amounts
and apply with a brush to achieve a uniform finish. It will
be helpful to use natural sunlight or interior lights to check
the finish. Always clear-coat the vertical surfaces first before
coating the floor. This will allow for easy cleanup if anything
is spilled, and it enables faster installation. Due to the fast-
setting nature of the polyaspartics, it will be difficult to coat
the verticals and floor at the same time.
Once the stairs, curb, etc. are coated, you can mix a larger
quantity to coat the floor.