Valve clearances/adjustment
Valve clearance (cold) :
intake: 0.10 - 0.15 mm (0.004” - 0.006”)
exhaust: 0.15 – 0.20 mm (0.006” – 0.008”)
Fil Jan 2006
Right, having had a go at doing the job, I thought I'd add comments from my experiance of
doing this job earlier today for the benefit of anyone having a go at adjusting the valve
clearances (altough if you're not sure what you're doing, leave it to your bike shop!!)
The lock nuts are 10mm, and the screws have a very small, square head on them which
requires a special valve adjuster spanner to do correctly. I would definately recommend
getting hold of one of these spanners before attempting this job! A pair of pliers just isn't
going to do it I'm affraid!
To get at the exhaust valves on a Baggy/ Mastiff (don't know about the Scorpion/ Traveller
as I don't have one!) you need to undo the radiators on both sides (no need to disconnect
any pipes) and move them back as far as you can to get at the two round covers over the
adjusters.
These you can remove with a 17mm ring spanner.
To get at the cover over the inlet valve adjusters, you need to work around the water pipe
that runs over that part of the engine. I found I could move the pipe far enough out of the
way after disconnecting the throttle cables. The inlet valve adjuster access cover is held in
place by 4 bolts (using a 5mm allen key).
Also - be careful when removing the large circular cover in the centre of the left hand
engine case to get at the 19mm nut on the alternator end of the crank (to allow you to
rotate the engine to TDC) as it is only made of plastic.
And don't forget to remove the spark plug so that you don't have to fight the compression
in the cylinder at TDC!!
All the torque settings etc are in the SZR manual which you can download from a link
somewhere on here...