Pinny Making your Dress
in this kit is all you need to make a beautiful garment, beautifully! 1. Using the legend, identify the pattern pieces for 7. Place the lining on top. Stitch along the top
the size that you wish to make, and cut along the section only, sandwiching the straps as you go. Turn
the dress pattern is printed directly onto the fabric and each kit has a choice
lines. For the smaller sizes it will be necessary to both through to the right way, and press so that
of sizes, which can be tailored to fit your child perfectly. A lining is provided, shadow the largest size for the hem. If your child you have a nice neat top seam.
in this is in either a matching fabric or a gorgeous complimentary trim (or you is particularly tall, you may want to cut with an
may have a special piece of fabric that you would like to use for this purpose).
Extra ribbons and contrast stitching can also look fun - personalise just as you
like! A handmade garment is very different from a high street readymade. Take
time, enjoy it – it really is special.
and you can use this to pull the fabric through
Making instructions to the right side. Will need a bit of jigging and discrepincies too)This is easiest done by beginning
coaxing – the blunt end of a pencil is quite handy stitching at the lining, and following through to the
in general and before you start... for this task. Once done, press flat. hem of the dress (see illustration). Press open the
The printed lines on the pattern are cutting lines. allowance for a longer hem, and shorten at a later side seams.
Seam allowances (that is the bit between where stage. Or alternatively you could use a contrast 5. Take the front section of the pinny, and it’s
you cut and where you stitch) are all 1cm unless lining to add length. Or a little hidden underskirt corresponding lining piece. Pin, right sides 9. Neaten the bottom of the lining, by pinning up
otherwise indicated, and all are included within that peeks out under... Oh the choices! together. Stitch with a 1cm seam allowance 1cm of the lining hem and then sewing around.
the printed pattern cutting lines. around the armhole curves and top.
2. For the lining, first give it a press - it has probably 10. Next for the hem. I like to fold the hem over
the printed side is the ‘right side’. got a bit creased in it’s travels. Using the printed twice for an neat finish (first a half centimetre, then
pieces as a template, neatly cut out two linning over again a cm and a half), and often I will hand
Kits can easily be cut out by following the line sections. One 10cm deep for the rear section
indicated in the key for the size required. The and one 20cm deep for the front section (see
hemline on the smaller size is marked by a illustration). Cut out lining for pocket and straps.
pointer (this is because a printed line indicating in the original version, and in these PC times,
the size would be visible if the kit was made to the it should be noted that it is also a bloke’s best
larger size). Cut the hem parallel to the larger friend too. The point is don’t skip the pressing
size. It may help to mark it out with some tailors stages – it really makes a difference to the
chalk as a guide before cutting. finish of the garment. Get out the iron! And of 6. Now take the back pinny section, printed side
8. Now to join up the side seams. Turn inside out
course the board too. up, pin the straps in place, 8cm from either side. sew this bit – although that is not strictly necessary
again and right sides together pin the two side
To ‘tack’ means to make a long, temporary stitch You should ensure that the right sides of the – a machine stitch will do just as well. It often
seams of both the dress and the lining. For each
that will keep the fabric in the right position Do keep an eye on our website for hints and outer dress fabric are together, and the strap lining helps to press the hem BEFORE you stitch too, as
side, and in one long run, sew up the seams at a
before you machine stitch. You can do this advice, or to swap tricks in the forum. And do faces upwards. this will help keep it level. Press both hems – lining
1cm allowance. It is ideal to match up the join
by adjusting your machine stitch length to the let us know if you have any great tips too, you and dress.
where lining meets the front at both sides for a
longest setting, or even getting out a needle and will be able to post these on the website. We 3. If you have an overlocker, you can neaten all professional finish (this helps even out any cutting
thread. In fact, you could do the whole dress by love to learn, and there is always a different way long edges with your machine, and if not, a zigzag 11. Topstitch around the top of
hand (though I am not recommending it!) to do things. stitch along all sides will neaten the seams, and the pinny and the straps
prevent excessive fraying. Machine with one zig of too at a 0.5cm interval
A few back stitches when commencing sewing Right, let’s get going! It should be easy to make the zag falling outside the raw edge of the fabric. from the edge.
will ensure that your stitches don’t unravel. the dress in an evening, and is achievable for
both the novice and more experienced stitcher 4. With right sides together, pin, then stitch,
‘An ironing board, an ironing board, a girl’s best alike. around three sides of the straps (the two
friend’ Actually, I think it was a washing machine long sides and one short end) at a 1cm seam
allowance. This should leave one short end open,
...almost done Pinny Pinny
12. Buttons – The pinny has three buttons. First Dress kit instructions
let’s do the two at the end of the straps. Position sizes: 1-2 years
the buttons at the end of the straps, with the
centres 2cm from the loose ends. Some sewing
machines even have fancy bits that do this, but
it takes only a minute or two to do it by hand.
14. Pocket (optional). I like the pinny without a
pocket too – it is a matter of personal preference.
Pin right sides together of pocket and pocket
linings, stitch round leaving a 7cm gap for you to
turn through to the right side. Press, sew up the
opening then position on the garment with pins.
Topstich into place 0.5cm from edge around side Fabric composition
and base of pocket. We use a superior quality cotton (100%).
Contents may vary from kit to kit.
Mark (with chalk or a pin) the position of your 15. Ta-da!
buttonholes on the top two corners of the front
of the pinny. And these button holes should be 16. Put on child and grin...a really big, cheesy grin.
made horizontally. Using your button hole setting
(even my machine has one of those!) stitch a For both your clothing and the environment,
buttonhole. If you chose to use the beautiful shell we recommend that you wash at 30oc. Wash
ones provided then the hole should be 3mm with similar colours. turning the garment
wider than the button. If you are using your own, inside out will protect the print from excessive
then you may need to add more width for a fatter abrasion. reshape whilst damp. iron on a
button – in this case it might be useful to have a medium heat, and we recommend that motifs
practice on a scrap of fabric. should be pressed on the reverse of the fabric
(or under a damp tea towel).
13. The rear button and buttonholes should be
placed centrally between the two rear straps siZE chart
as illustrated. The buttonholes should run
vertically, parallel to each other and to the age chest Height
left of the button, and all should be 3cm 1 50cm 80cm
apart (the button will go in one and out
2 53cm 92cm
of the other). Once you have completed
the buttonhole stitching cut open
if you enjoyed making this dress, why not try N.B. Hat available in seperate kit.
another outfit. Just vist us @ www.clothkits.co.uk See www.clothkits.co.uk for how to order.
clothkits Limited, Po Box 618, chichester, West sussex Po19 9gr 100% Recycled. Soya based ink