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					Pertama-tama yang dipertimbangkan adalah memilih dari 2 aliran utama dalam
radio control mobil yaitu mobil dengan penggerak elektrik dan mesin. Mobil
elektrik menggunakan tenaga baterai untuk menggerakkan dinamo. Sedangkan
mesin yang tentunya lebih kencang menggunakan glow engine (2 tak) dengan
bahan bakar campuran methanol dan nitro yang juga dilengkapi dengan pelumas

Langkah pertama adalah menentukan jenis mobil. Ada 5 pilihan yaitu : sedan
touring, sedan rally, stadium truck, monster truck dan buggy. Jika Anda
berencana hanya untuk sekedar menyalurkan hobby, pilihlah mobil yang dapat
dimainkan dimana-mana (all terrain), kalau berencana untuk balap (race),
datanglah ke track (off-road atao on-road), lihat jenis apa yang paling banyak
dipakai dan terbaik menurut Anda.

Kit R/C bervariasi berdasarkan tingkat kesiapan mobil, ada ARR (Almost Ready to
Run), RTR (Ready to Run) dan kit yang dibangun sendiri. ARR sudah dibangun
sekitar 50-70% biasanya sistim transmisi dan mesinnya sudah terpasang.
Sedangkan RTR sudah dapat langsung dimainkan, dengan sedikit pekerjaan
tambahan seperti menempel sticker dan melem ban.

Setelah mendapatkan mobil yang sesuai berikutnya memilih peralatan radio (jika
tidak termasuk dalam kit), mobil RTR biasanya sudah termasuk radio. Ada 2
pilihan radio yaitu AM dan FM, radio AM biasanya lebih murah, tapi tidak
didukung dengan banyak fasilitas dan lebih rentan terhadap interfrensi
dibandingkan FM. Frekwensi dapat dipilih beragam dari 27, 40 dan 75 Mhz yang
masing-masing mempunyai channel / warna tersendiri. Semakin banyak fitur
yang ditawarkan, seperti LCD Panel, Sub-Trim, Dual-Rate, End Point Adjustment,
memori untuk banyak mobil, akan semakin baik Radionya dan tentunya semakin
mahal. Pilihlah yang sesuai untuk mobil Anda.

Paket radio biasanya sudah termasuk receiver (penerima) dan 2 servo standar.
Servo ini sudah cukup untuk kebanyakan mobil 1/10 sedan. Tapi jika Anda
berencana main mobil off-road disaran kan untuk mengganti servo steering
dengan tipe yang lebih kuat, seperti Sanwa ERG-VB. Dan untuk sedan touring
dibutuhkan servo yang bereaksi cepat dan akurat seperti Sanwa ERG-WR.

Anda juga perlu memiliki berbagai macam alat pendukung seperti :

       Seperangkat kunci-kunci, obeng, kunci L dll.

        Loctite Threadlock. Getaran dari mesin dapat melonggarkan baut-baut
       sehingga diperlukan threadlock untuk menguncinya. Ada 2 jenis yaitu biru
       dan merah (lebih kuat).

       Cutter, untuk memotong bagian-bagian dari kit.

       Gunting Lexan, gunting ini khusus digunakan untuk memotong body.

        Fuel (minyak), ada bermacam-macam merek dipasaran, yang terkenal
       adalah Tornado dan O'Donnell. Perhatikan jumlah kandungan Castor Oil
       (pelumas) dan Nitro-nya.

        Baterai, Anda membutuhkan 8 baterai ukuran AA untuk radio dan 4 di
       receiver, untuk menghemat gunakan tipe Rechargeable (dapat dicas
       ulang).
         Starter Box (opsional) kebanyakan mobil RTR disertai mesin dengan
       pull-start (dihidupkan dengan menarik engkol), utuk mesin yang tidak
       dilengkapi dengan pull-start dibutuhkan starter box.

        Charger, untuk men-cas ulang baterai, untuk mobil elektrik sangat
       diperlukan perangkat dengan mode quick charger yang dapatmencas
       dengan cepat dan akurat.

         After Run Oil, minyak ini digunakan setelah bermain mobil engine,
       gunanya untuk mencegah karat di dalam mesin dan menjadikan mesin
       tetap awet.

Setelah itu tentunya ada option-parts dan hop-ups untuk membuat mobil makin
kencang, stabil dan cantik. Pilihlah option-parts yang sesuai dan dibuat khusus
untuk mobil Anda. Beberapa yang penting diantaranya :

          Ball bearings, mungkin ini yang terpenting, gunanya untuk
       memperlancar jalannya mobil, sedapatnya ganti semua bushing dengan
       ball bearing.

        Special tie rod, berguna untuk menyetel sudut camber, caster dan toe
       in/out

        Aluminium shocks & silicon oil, menggantikan shock plastik yang tidak
       dapat diisi minyak dan diatur kekerasannya.

        Fuel filter, menahan debu atau kotoran yang tercampur di dalam
       minyak.

       Foam bumper, penahan tabrakan untuk mobil on-road.

        Inner Sponge, pengganti      angin   di   dalam   ban,   berguna   untuk
       memaksimalkan handling.

        2-speed gear box, menambah top speed dan akselerasi pada mobil on-
       road.

         Universal swingshaft, membuat perputaran transmisi menjadi lebih
       lancar.

        Stabilizers, untuk menstabilkan chassis sewaktu menikung dan dalam
       kecepatan tiinggi.

        Brake disc, pada mobil standar biasanya terbuat dari plastik dapat
       diganti dengan bahan yang lebih kuat, mis. aluminium atau baja.

        Cluth bells, gigi roda mesin bernomor 13T to 16T, semakin tinggi
       angkanya semakin tinggi top-speed.

        Air filter oil, ditambahkan ke filter udara untuk menambah kekuatan
       untuk menahan debu dan kotoran.
        Torsen diff, membuat ban dapat berputar (kiri / kanan) dengan
       kecepatan yang berbeda (ban yang slip mendapat tenaga yang lebih
       sedikit), yang tentu saja menambah kemampuan mobil di tikungan.

Setelah membaca ini mungkin sekarang Anda sudah mendapat sedikit gambaran
tentang hobby ini, selamat menentukan pilihan dan jangan lupa tujuan hobby ini,
"To Have FUN!"....

                                   ---------




Mengenali mesin Glow Engine anda

Langkah pertama dan terpenting dalam memaksimalkan dan dalam waktu yang
sama memperpanjang "hidup" mesin adalah mengenali komponen utama dari
mesin tersebut.

• Karburator

 Karburator adalah tempat bercampurnya 'fuel' (minyak) dan udara dalam
 komposisi yang tertentu dan
 meneruskannya     ke   mesin.
 Dengan    mengurangi  jumlah
 minyak per volume udara Anda
 membuat campuran "Lean" dan
 sebaliknya dengan menambah
 jumlah minyak Anda membuat
 campuran "Rich".

• Katup Idle-Speed

 Katup ini membatasi bukaan di
 dalam karburator. Walaupun
 katup ini tidak mempengruhi
 campuran minyak dan udara, tapi mempengaruhi "iddle speed" atau langsam.

• Katup High-End Mixture

 Juga di kenal dengan "Main Needle", fungsinya          sebagai   katup   utama
 pencampuran minyak untuk diteruskan ke mesin.

• Katup Low-End Mixture

 Katup ini mengatur campuran minyak dalam kondisi mesin langsam.

• Glow Plug (Busi)

 Busi mempunyai karakteristik (temperatur) yang berbeda berdasarkan nomor
 busi, biasanya makin tinggi nomornya makin panas. Mesin kecil (12 - 15)
 menggunakan busi yang hangat sampai panas, sedangkan untuk mesin yang
 lebih besar menggunakan busi yang lebih dingin.

• Air Filter (Saringan Udara)
 Saringan udara mencegah kotoran / debu masuk ke mesin. Jangan sekali-kali
 menghidupkan mesin tanpa saringan udara.

• Tune Pipe (Knalpot)

 Siapa saja yang mengenal mesin 2 tak tentu mengetahui betapa pentingnya
 fungsi knalpot. Sebagai garis besar knalpot yang lebih kecil / tipis baik pada
 putaran mesin tinggi sebaliknya semakin besar volumenya (gemuk)
 menghasilkan tenaga di putaran bawah.

• Break-In Mesin (running)

Bagaimana cara kita mem'break-in' sangat mempengaruhi umur mesin. Berikut
langkah-langkah dasar dalam break-in:

   -     Pertama hidupkan mesin dengan bukaan katup High-End sebanyak ~2-4
       putaran (lihat instruksi di buku panduan mesin, setiap mesin mempunyai
       seting awal yang berbeda).

   -    Gunakan seting ini untuk 2 (dua) tangki pertama tanpa terlalu banyak
       menekan 'gas'

   -     Untuk tangki ke 3 (tiga) hingga ke 6 (enam) tutup katup High-End 1/8
       putaran untuk masing-masing tangki.

   -     Di posisi tangki ke enam mesin seharusnya sudah hampir mencapai
       setting optimum. Mesin sudah dapat mencapai top speed dari posisi
       langsam selama lebih kurang 10 detik.

   -     Selanjutnya tinggal pengaturan Katup Low-End, jika asap yang keluar
       dari knalpot berwarna putih dan putaran mesin meninggi secara perlahan,
       putar katup searah jarum jam. Jika mesin mati dan asap tidak kelihatan,
       putar berlawanan dengan arah jarum jam.

                                    ---------




Pengertian dan Penyetelan Sudut CAMBER

Tujuan Utama dari dari penyetelan camber adalah untuk memaksimalkan traksi
dengan mengatur sudut antara ban dengan tanah sehingga tercipta penapakan
yang paling efektif. Dalam artikel ini kami akan menerangkan bagaimana
mengeset camber yang benar pada kebanyakan mobil R/C dan alat yang
digunakan

DASAR-DASAR CAMBER
                                   Gambar 1

menunjukkan sudut camber 0º yang berarti ban benar-benar vertikal (tegak
lurus) terhadap tanah sehingga bagian yang rata dari ban 100% menyentuh
tanah. Sementara ini mungkin Anda mengira ini konfigurasi yang terbaik,
masalah baru timbul saat mobil menikung. Sewaktu mobil menikung salah satu
bagian dari chasis akan terangkat mengakibatkan hilangnya traksi. Jadi sudut 0º
mungkin baik pada jalan lurus (drag racing) tapi sudah tentu tidak efisien pada
circuit                                                                  racing.
Satu lagi konsep yang salah dalam mengatur camber adalah sudut camber yang
positif seperti yang terlihat pada

                                   Gambar 2

Masalahnya dengan sudut positif ini tekanan pada ban saat menikung adalah
pada bagian luar dari ban akibatnya traksi turun drastis. Dari uraian diatas pada
akhirnya disimpulkan sudut camber yang optimal adalah sudut negatif Dengan
sudut ban sedikit miring kearah dalam (negatif camber), posisi chasis yang
miring saat menikung malah membuat permukaan ban lebih banyak menyentuh
tanah, sehingga traksi bertambah. Sebagai pedoman untuk track yang traksinya
tinggi, setingan yang umum adalah sudut negatif antara 2 sampai 3 derajat.
Sedangkan untuk track yang traksinya rendah (licin) gunakan sudut yang lebih
rendah (0 - 2 derajat)

MENYETEL CAMBER

Cara yang umum untuk mengatur camber pada mobil adalah dengan menyetel
turnbuckle seperti yang terlihat pada gambar di kanan. Memutar turnbuckle ke
satu arar akan mengurangi sudut camber, dan memutar kearah yang berlainan
akan                                                           menambahnya.
Pada jenis mobil yang lain, camber di set dengan memutar pillow balls, seperti
yang terlihat pada mobil V-One (tanda panah pada gambar paling bawah)

KESIMPULAN
Kami harap uraian singkat diatas dapat membantu anda mengerti tentang konsep
camber dan berikut adalah kesimulannya :

        Jangan pernah menggunakan sudut camber positif

        2 - 3 derajat sudut negatif untuk trak dengan traksi yang tinggi.

         Camber yang lebih kecil (0-2 derajat) untuk kondisi track yang kurang
         traksinya.

                                                 ---------




You cannot become a skilled driver just by running a R/C car on an open surface. Make a course
using things like empty cans as pylons. With a set course, you can practice navigating a R/C car
through various corners.

OVAL COURSE 1

This is the simplest course using two pylons. It looks simple at first sight to drive a car along, but it
will require some practice to achieve quick and sharp turns. Practice both ways, clockwise and
counterclockwise, until you can make both rounds in the same period of time. A figure “8” exercise
can also be done in the same track.




ROAD COURSE
When finishing course No.1 and No.2, you have mastered the basic driving techniques. Now you
should proceed to complex courses. Build a road course with the pylons, from basic figure “T” and “L”
courses to more complicated circuits, assortments of figure “L” and hairpin curves, high-speed curve
and slaloms.




OVAL COURSE 2

Have two or three pairs of pylons forming gates and run your car through them as accurately as
possible. You will find it much harder than the oval course No.1. For the first period of time, arrange
the pylons with a wide space, narrow them gradually until the space is one meter. Practice in both
rotations, clockwise and counterclockwise.
CAR STEERS OPPOSITELY?

If you are a novice driver and not sufficiently accustomed to R/C car driving, you may feel as if the car
steered oppositely to the transmitter movement when the car runs towards you. To solve this
problem, try to imagine you were driving in the R/C car. As you repeat the basic exercise, you will
get used to this way of thinking and control the model smoothly.




WHERE TO LOOK WHEN DRIVING

When you drive a car, it is important what you keep your eye on. Suppose the squares described are
the field of vision. Put your point of sight on the forward part of the area of vision with the car placed
at the back. If your point of sight is on the car itself, you cannot keep clear of obstacles ahead
because it would be too late to notice them. Corners would also be difficult to see.
Practicing on a Circuit

Operating an R/C car in an open area is one thing, but running it on a closed circuit is entirely
different. Even though you are not competing, and only practicing, driving on a circuit will improve
your driving skill. You can also observe techniques used by experienced drivers running highly tuned
cars at the circuit.

1.   CORNERING TECHNIQUES

No particular skill is required for driving a car just straight, and the drag speed is limited by the car’s
own inherent performance capability. However, at curves, your finesse of taking corners affects the
result even among cars of the same performance. Especially in speed races, the cornering technique
is one of the decisive factors. After becoming accustomed to the car, try to practice smooth, speedy
and stable cornering.

“Slow-in and Fast-out” is a golden rule in controlling speed in curves, and “Out-in-Out” instructs how
to steer a car. Briefly, you should control speed in “slow-in and Fast-Out” manner and steer a car in
an “Out-in-Out” manner.

WHAT’S “SLOW-IN AND FAST-OUT”

Decelerating when entering into a curve and picking up the speed after the apex of the curve is the
technique. In the case of entering bends without reducing speed, the car is forced to slow down
before finishing corners to lose speed and stability. In the worst cases, the car might spin or run off
the course. It also gets the car moving too late to pick up speed. As a result, “Slow-in and Fast-out”
is the fastest way to take corners.
WHAT’S “OUT-IN-OUT”

It is, as illustrated, a way of turning curves from the outside line of a course into the inside line to
which the car will come closest to the apexes (clipping points) and finishing the corner back to the
outside line, thus making the longest possible turning radius. By utilizing the full width of the course,
the car will make an easier turn than the actual curve. This will allow the car to run through the turns
faster.




*Set the clipping point after the Apex

In some cases, it may be advantageous to set the clipping point a little after the apex because it
allows easier later half cornering and enables the car to accelerate out better.

ACCELERATION DURING THE LATTER HALF OF A CURVE IS IMPORTANT

Both “Slow-in and Fast-out” and “Out-in-Out” techniques are established from attaching more
importance to velocity in the latter half of cornering than the first half. This has to do with the
acceleration of a car. A car increasing speed in the latter half of a turn can take the lead in the
successive straight track, provided the cars should have the same pickup and maximum speed
capability. This principle is true anywhere except in a very wide road where you are not required to
reduce the speed at all.

WHEN PERFORMANCE GETS BETTER, THE DRIVING LINE SHOULD BE ALTERED

When your car’s top speed becomes faster, by using a higher performance motor, etc., more
deceleration will be required when entering corners. Not only the speed, but the handling
characteristics, tire grip etc. will influence the driving line a car should take.

THE LAST CURVE IS THE MOST IMPORTANT IN A CHAIN

The last curve is the most important in continuous curves. In successive bends of a road, steer your
car so that it will make the easiest turn at the last curve. Then you will be able to accelerate as soon
as you reach the straight.




CONSIDER COMPLEX CURVES AS ONE

Consider complex curves as one integrated compound curve. In the case of complex curves with
different radii, you can manage to get through by considering them as one curve.
TAKING THE INSIDE LINE ON GENTLE CURVES

Although the “Slow-in, “Fast-out and the “Out-in-Out” rules are basic for cornering, if the curve is
gentle enough, there is little or no need to reduce speed. Naturally, it is advantageous to use the
inside line throughout the curve, when possible.




OBSERVE THE ENTIRE CIRCUIT LAYOUT
Although several tips are offered when describing individual curves, a circuit is a succession of
straights and curves. It is therefore important to observe the entire layout and select a smooth
running line for completing a lap. Repeat practice laps, trying various routes to find the ideal
line. Shortening your lap times during trials is a very rewarding part of R/C cars.




2.   ADVANCED CORNERING TECHNIQUES

Not just steering alone but combining with throttle control, various cornering techniques can be
obtained. Practice and master this for much faster and smoother cornering.

FOUR WHEEL DRIFT

This technique is achieved by oversteering while decelerating in the early stage of cornering. As the
rear wheels start to slide outward and the nose heads towards the inside of the corner, neutralize the
steering and add power. The car will take the corner with all wheels sliding. This technique is
suitable for rear wheel drive and 4WD racecars.




TACKING-IN
This technique is unique to front wheel drive cars. Enter a curve straight, then cut power and steer
around the curve at the same time. The car will change direction quickly, straighten out and
accelerate going through the corner.
COUNTER STEERING

The term means to steer the wheels against the turn of a corner. If a car enters the corner too fast,
the rear wheels could start to skid, resulting in a spin. To stop this, steer into the direction of the
skid. This technique is used to prevent the car from spinning and is not for enhancing cornering
speed.




WEIGHT LOAD SHIFT ACCORDING TO POWER APPLIED

When running at a steady speed, the load is divided between the car’s front and rear wheels in a fixed
ratio. During deceleration, more of a load is put on the front wheels because of inertia, resulting in
sharper steering response. Opposite of this is acceleration, where more of a load is put on the rear
wheels, producing a slower steering response. Both the four-wheel drift and tack-in use this weight
load shift to obtain the desired cornering effect.
PRACTICE AS IF YOU WERE RACING

A race is run with many cars at the same time. If you want to become familiar with racing, the best
way is to hold practice sessions with your friends as a group. It is important to feel the difference
between driving a car by yourself and driving with competition. You’ll notice that the track seems
somewhat narrower with all the cars and becomes difficult to steer your car on the line you
desire. Experience is what counts to get your car ahead of the others.

START
The result of a race sometimes depends upon the start. However, a quick start is not always
advantageous. Accidents are most likely to occur between the start and the first corner because
participating cars are running close to one another. Decide how you should start according to the
characteristics of your car and the course layout.

TAKE AND HOLD THE INSIDE LINE DURING CORNERING

When competing with your rivals during cornering, take the inside line for maintaining the lead. It is
difficult for you to beat your opponent in the corner by trying to pass him on the inside line because
both cars are running at about the same speed. If your car can manage a higher maximum speed
than the others can, only then, is passing on the outside line possible. Trying to take the inside line
too early can lead to over-running the corner resulting loss of time and opening a space for another
car. While you’re at the edge of the track, your rival can easily pass you on the inside. In order to
avoid this, stick to the inside, forcing him to delay his acceleration. Taking and holding the inside line
in the corner is a golden rule for taking the lead at corners. Confrontation between cars during
cornering are the most exiting moments during a race, but be sure to avoid the selfish type of driving
that can cause a collision and damage that will spoil the race for everyone.
HOW TO PASS OTHERS

There are various places in which you can try to pass another car. A straight is the safest place to do
so. It is dangerous to start passing a car when you are following too close behind it. When you judge
that it is possible to pass, steer your car a little as soon as possible and attempt to pass. You may
pass on either side, wherever there is more room. If the space on each side is about the same, it is
advisable to go inside to make the next corner negotiable.

Passing on a corner is dangerous as compares with passing on a straight. If the driver of the car you
are trying to pass is not skilful in control, your car is liable to be involved in a spin. To make passing
easier, it is advisable to go on the inside of the rival’s car and pass it after turning the corner. It is
very difficult to pass it on the outside of the corner even if your car is much faster.




IF YOUR CAR LOSES STABILITY

If your car has hit another car and control is lost, reduce the throttle. If you try to restore control by
steering, the car might be further disturbed. Start accelerating again only after the car has slowed
down and is stable.

                                                ---------
10 Ways Guaranteed to Keep Your R/C Car Running Well

1. Keep It Clean

Dirt is the most common way to ruin your engine. If it gets inside, the dirt will act
just like sandpaper and ruin the close fit that the parts need for your engine to
operate correctly.

      Use an air filter to keep as much dirt outside as possible. A two or three
       stage filter with an oiled foam element is the best way to go.
      Dirt on the outside of the engine acts just like a blanket of insulation and
       prevents proper cooling. Keep your engine clean.
      Use a fuel filter. Dirt getting into the fuel will clog the fuel passages in the
       carburetor and also get those abrasive particles inside. Keep your engine
       clean.
      Dirt will damage your engine very quickly and repairs for dirt are not
       covered by the engine manufacturer's warranty.

2. Keep It Rich

The high-speed needle valve is used to adjust the mixture of fuel and air needed
to get the optimum performance from your engine. If it's adjusted too lean, your
engine will get less fuel than it should.

      You must remember that the engine gets its lubrication from the oil that's
       in the fuel. If you run it too lean, the engine will not get enough oil to
       keep the internal parts lubricated, even thought it sounds better.
      Parts will start to run hot and then seize. The result is a typical problem as
       a broken connecting rod that seized to the crankshaft, and then broke as
       the crankshaft tried to continue to turn.
      Keep the engine running on the rich side of the highest RPM setting to
       ensure proper lubrication.

3. Keep It On The Ground

You should run your engine at high speeds only when you are driving the car.

      Do not put the car on the box or stand with the wheels off the ground and
       then run the engine. You'll quickly overspeed your engine and ruin it.
       Generally, the connecting rod will break from the over-revving.
      Do not remove the engine from the car and try to run it with just the
       flywheel. That does the same as described above. The engine must be run
       with the load of the car when driving.

4. Keep It Cool

If you run your engine good and hot, you'll have a nice chunck of useless
aluminum in a short time.

      Running the engine hot causes the oil in the fuel to break down and quit
       working. The parts will seize. The repairs won't be cheap.
Your engine is equipped with a special heat-sink cylinder head to make sure it
gets enough cooling..

      Keep the head clean so that the dirt doesn't act like an insulating blanket.
      Make sure that any airflow passes through the fins of the cylinder and
       head.
      Make as many cutouts in the car's body as necessary, and don't skimp on
       the size.

5. Keep It Lubed

Make sure you're using a fuel from a reputable, name-brand manufacturer.

      Your fuel should have at least the amount of oil recommended by the
       engine manufacturer. If you can't find a particular recommendation on oil
       content, then use a fuel with 20%-22% oil content.
      If you're trying to run a fuel with more than 20% Nitromethane, you
       should add some oil to your fuel, such as Klotz TechniplateTM or Baker "AA"
       Castor OilTM.

6. Keep It Properly Lubed During Storage

If you let your engine sit with nothing done to it after you last ran it, the internal
parts will start to corrode... especially the steel crankshaft and ball bearings.
They'll rust. If the fuel has castor oil in it , it will begin to dry out and become
gummy.

      Rust inside an engine will erode tight clearances and score polished
       surfaces.
      Gummy fuel residue blocks oil holes in connecting rods and crankshafts.

Here's how to prevent rust:

      At the end of the day's running, pull the fuel line from the engine.
      Drain the tank, and then start the engine.
      Let it run until it's absolutely dry of fuel.
      Add several drops of an after-run oil. There are several after-run oils on
       the hobby market. You can also make your own from a 50-50 mixture of
       "Marvel Mystery Oil"TM and automatic transmission fluid.
      After adding the after-run oil, turn the engine over several times to make
       sure it's worked into all of the engine's internals. Add more if you are not
       sure that you put in enough.

7. Keep Good Power

Nitro, or Nitromethane, is the main power ingredient in model fuels. Raising the
nitro content will make the fuel "hotter" — that is, allow the engine to develop
more power. More is better, right? Not really.

      Unless your engine is designed and ported for high-nitro fuels, you won't
       see much gain in performance above 20%-25%.
      While some people are running nitro levels as high as 50%, they have
       modified their engines to handle it. They've also carefully blended their
       fuel to make sure they have enough oil.
      The best performance enhancer is a good driver. A driver who can keep
       the car on the track will usually beat a less experienced driver with a
       hotter set up.

8. Keep It Smooth

When you tighten the pilot shaft onto your flywheel, it can be hard to keep the
engine from turning over. It may be tempting to stick something into the exhaust
port to keep the piston from moving, but do not do this! You'll also put a nice
"ding" in the piston and in the cylinder liner. You've just ruined your nice, new
engine. A new ABC piston/cylinder assembly (the most commonly-used kind in
R/C car engines) will put a nice hole in your pocketbook.

This kind of damage is not covered under the warrenty.

      If the flywheel can't be tightened onto the engine without it trying to turn
       over, grip the drive washer in a pair of large adjustable pliers, like Channel
       LocksTM, with the drive washer protected under several layers of cloth. You
       could also try a strap wrench.
      If you feel more adventurous, you can remove the rear cover of the
       engine and insert a piece of wooden dowel stock or plastic rod to keep the
       crankshaft from turning. Don't put anything into the engine that will hit
       the piston.

9. Keep Away From Silicone Seal And Thread Stickers

Silicone sealers usually have a smell like vinegar when they're curing. Vinegar is
mostly acetic acid and that causes corrosion.

      The inside of an engine has two kinds of metal in it... aluminum for most
       of the parts and steel for the crankshaft and bearings.
      Two different kinds of metal will start to corrode if they have some kind of
       electrolyte between them and a tiny bit of acid will do the job.
      Aluminum corrosion can cause the entire inside of the engine to turn a
       dark grey or nearly black color. Corroded steel is rust. See above about
       rust.

10. Keep It Dry

While it sounds obvious, keeping water out of your engine isn't as easy as it
sounds. Sure, you can dry it out when you've run through some mud or puddles,
but how about condensation?

      Changes in temperature can cause moisture in the air to condense inside
       the engine. This can happen in the winter and summer, so keep your
       model inside the house, not in the garage.
      Keeping it inside the house also gives you good reason to keep it clean!
       Just try to explain oil spots on the carpet when your engine is dripping oil
       from a just-finished running session.




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