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Fortune

November 24, 2003

By Justin Fox



Where Your Job Is Going

A visit to Bangalore, India, a city where tech is hot, the drinks are cold, work is

plentiful, and the salaries are a lot lower than yours.





Every weekday, as the tropical sun begins its swift descent over the Deccan plain,

fleets of what the Indians call "multi-utility vehicles" fan out across Bangalore. The

Tata Sumos and Toyota Qualises bump along the potholed, muddy residential streets

of India's fifth-largest city, stopping to pick up young men and women and carry them

to work. Then, as business hours begin in the Eastern U.S., thousands of these

young Indians don telephone headsets and do their enthusiastic best to help the

American people get their Internet service working, figure out their credit card bills,

and order tacky limited-edition collectibles.



After years of wondering what all those fiber-optic cables laid around the earth at

massive expense in the late 1990s would ever be good for, we finally have an

answer: They're good for enabling call-center workers in Bangalore or Delhi to sound

as if they're next door to everyone. Broadband's killer app, it turns out, is India.



It's not just about call centers. In Bangalore some 110,000 people are employed

writing software, designing chips, running computer systems, reading MRIs,

processing mortgages, preparing tax forms, and doing other essential work for U.S.,

European, Japanese, and even Chinese companies. Intel, Cisco, Oracle, Philips, and

GE are among the multinationals with significant R&D facilities there. AOL,

Accenture, and Ernst & Young have big operations in town too. Scores more Western

corporations outsource work to Indian companies like Bangalore-based IT services

firms Infosys and Wipro.



Meanwhile, GE Capital employs more than 15,000 people in Delhi and other Indian

cities who answer calls from credit card customers, do accounting work, manage

computer networks, and the like. In Chennai (formerly Madras), a staff of 350 design

the PowerPoint presentations that McKinsey consultants around the world show their

clients. In Mumbai (Bombay), Morgan Stanley has been hiring equity analysts to help

cover U.S. companies from 102 time zones away. There are more than 350,000

people working in IT services and outsourcing in India now; the number is expected

to pass one million before 2008.



The attraction of the Indian knowledge workers who get those jobs is that they're paid

10% to 20% of what Americans would expect for similar work--and in many cases

they do it better. That has stoked understandable alarm in the U.S. Together with

China's rise in manufacturing, it is bringing protectionists out of the woodwork. It is

also causing even those of a less reactionary bent to wonder just what it is that

Americans will do for a living now that even knowledge work can easily be sent

overseas.

And what do those young Indian knowledge workers (they are, overwhelmingly,

young) think about this turn of events? Sitting on the terrace one pleasant October

evening at a swank Bangalore bar called the 13th Floor (which is in fact on the 13th

floor of an office building on M.G.--short for Mahatma Gandhi--Road, the city's main

drag), I pose the question to a group of young managers and engineers from Wipro:

"Do you feel bad about taking jobs from Americans?"



Several of them respond with a torrent of economic reasoning that would have made

David Ricardo, the 19th-century English apostle of free trade, proud. Trade enriches

all, they say. The American economy will take the money it's saving by outsourcing

and invest it in the growth industries of the future. Besides, the U.S., Western Europe,

and Japan will all face labor shortages in a few years as their populations age.



"Try explaining that to the customers I'm talking to," retorts Sapna Sudhir, a 28-year-

old with a razor wit who manages IT projects for retailers, mostly in the U.S. "'Let's

talk about the transition process,' I tell them. 'I'm going to transition your job to India.'

...There's a lot of hostility." Sudhir waxes conflicted about this for a few moments.

Then she slips into the tougher language of her colleagues. "It's Who Moved My

Cheese? The cheese has moved. You'd better move along too. This is a capitalist

economy. He who bids the lowest gets the job."



That is what the world has come to. An ambitious young woman from a nation that

spent the first four decades of its independence floundering in a semi-socialist

economic miasma is lecturing Americans on capitalism in the language of a cheesy

American business bestseller. And she's doing it at a slick night spot on a road

named after the saintly ascetic who won India its freedom. Isn't it magnificent?



So let us step back a moment from the current plight of the U.S. The long-term fate of

the earth rests largely with the 95% of humanity that doesn't happen to live within

America's borders. About a sixth of the world's people live in India. That's why I've

come to Bangalore, a South Indian metropolis of almost six million, where

globalization and digitization are having the just the kind of transformative impact that

hyperventilating Silicon Valley seers were predicting a half-decade ago.



That India may turn out to be one of the winners of the digital, global, interconnected

economy has of course come as a surprise to many people--not least the Indians.

The Mahatma had envisioned the nation he helped create as a land of self-sufficient

villagers who grew their own food, spun their own cloth, and turned their backs on

industrial modernity. India's first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, was all for self-

sufficiency too, albeit on the national level. And while Nehru felt India had to

industrialize to achieve this self-sufficiency, he didn't trust industrialists.



Thus was India set upon the economic course it followed for decades: The

government owned most major industries, discouraged foreign trade, and--in order to

steer the country's scarce resources away from frivolities--forced anybody who

wanted to manufacture a new product to get permission first. (As Nehru put it, "Why

do we need 19 brands of toothpaste?") In response, India's economy stubbornly

refused to move faster than what came to be known as the "Hindu rate of growth" of

3.5% a year--disastrously slow for a developing country with a burgeoning population.

A currency crisis in 1991 finally put an end to this madness. After being forced to fly

the bulk of the nation's gold reserves to London as collateral for an IMF loan, a

government led by the chastened Congress Party of Gandhi and Nehru finally started

hacking away at India's economic regulations and import tariffs.



Even during the decades of economic stagnation, India did have some things going

for it: Much to the surprise of many skeptics in the West, its democratic institutions--

elections, a free press, an independent judiciary--survived and thrived. While huge

swaths of the Indian populace received no education at all, instruction in the upper

echelons of the educational system was of surpassing rigor. And while some political

leaders tried to impose the North Indian language Hindi as the national tongue, the

true national language of the educated classes remained English.



So while India as a nation remained closed to the global market economy until the

1990s, millions of Indians developed the skills to join it--which many did by emigrating

to the U.S., Britain, and elsewhere. A few multinationals, like Unilever and Citicorp,

began mining Indian talent aggressively. Bhaskar Menon, a former Citibank executive

who now runs an Indian call-center operation called Msource, remembers sitting in on

a meeting in 1985 at which Citi's India chief reported the unit's profits for the year to

CEO John Reed. "John said, 'This would pay for our stationery in New York--don't

worry about it. Your mandate is to export 15 middle-management people to New York

every year.'"



The talent hunt has only escalated--since the mid-1990s global firms like McKinsey

and Goldman Sachs have recruited students at India's top business schools for jobs

in New York, London, Tokyo, and everywhere in between. But starting in the 1970s,

another form of talent export that didn't require outright emigration began to evolve in

the software business. Indian companies that wanted to import computers had to

come up with the foreign currency to pay for them. So the likes of Mumbai-based

industrial conglomerate Tata began sending teams of engineers to the U.S. to work

on software projects for American clients and bring home dollars. Over time, with the

rise of data networks and satellite communications, it became possible to do more

and more of the work remotely from India.



That was the genesis of the Indian IT services industry--now led by Tata Consultancy

Services, Infosys, and Wipro. Foreign multinationals also eventually saw the wisdom

of tapping into Indian talent in India at Indian salary levels: Texas Instruments led the

way when it opened an R&D center in Bangalore in 1985. The rise of big India-based

tech companies, though, has had special significance in a country that has long

associated foreign investment with imperialism (understandably so, as the British Raj

began as a purely commercial venture). Software exports may directly account for

only about 200,000 jobs in a country of one billion people, but the Indian leaders of

the software industry have become hugely influential in the nation's political and

economic life. Their message: Economic openness is good for India, because India is

perfectly capable of competing internationally.



TCS, Infosys, and Wipro now each boast revenues of about $ 1 billion a year. That's

still tiny in comparison with competitors like IBM's global services division ($ 40

billion) and Accenture ($ 12 billion), but it's clear that the Indian pipsqueaks have

caught the attention of the big guys. Accenture now has 4,000 employees in

Bangalore and Mumbai, up from just a couple of hundred a year ago.



"They have the advantage of stronger brands," says Wipro chairman Azim Premji of

his foreign competitors. "We're working on that. They have no experience with the

global delivery model. We're masters at it." Premji, whose 84% stake in Wipro makes

him the richest man in India, has a habit of making such bold, almost smug

pronouncements. "U.S. society is not being reskilled and retooled to stay on top of

the emerging environment," he tells me during my visit to Wipro's headquarters

southeast of Bangalore. "You need to retool your educational system."



A few miles away, on the sprawling Infosys campus, CEO Nandan Nilekani has no

such harsh words for the foreign competition. But he, too, exudes confidence.

"There's a sense that the worm has turned and our time has finally come," he says.

"A lot of people tell me that the air here is like the Valley in 1999."



Ah, the Valley. The world is lousy with places claiming to be another Silicon Valley.

But in Bangalore the claims have an eerie ring of truth. For one thing, as in Northern

California, the climate is a big draw--Bangalore is 3,000 feet above sea level and thus

has the most bearable summer weather of any Indian metropolis. What's more, like

the San Francisco area it boasts fine educational institutions (foremost among them

the Indian Institute of Science, founded in 1909) and an openness to outsiders--born

of the city's status as a big army garrison since colonial days and as the home of

India's defense and aerospace industries since independence. There's even a wine

country (okay, one winery) north of town.



The real clincher is that despite constant complaints about the city's insane traffic,

skyrocketing real estate prices, and fickle workforce--and constant efforts by other

cities, especially Hyderabad and Chennai, to get in on the action--companies and

people keep coming to Bangalore. Which, of course, sounds exactly like Silicon

Valley in the late 1990s. And while Bangalore was a graveyard of failed startups in

2001, just like the Valley, the very corporate cost cutting that has meant continued

lean times in California has brought tons of new business to South India.



India is a developing country, and for all its affluence Bangalore is still a city of power

outages (all office buildings and many homes have backup generators), inadequate

roads, a third-rate airport, over a million slum dwellers, and lots of wandering cows.

But it's become attractive enough that Indian expats are moving back.



"In 2002 I thought, 'It looks like India is the place for global IT,'" says Sean

Narayanan, an India-born U.S. citizen whose siblings live in the U.S. and whose

parents spend six months a year there. "I had to get experience here." So he left a

job with Booz Allen in northern Virginia to work in Bangalore for Cognizant, a Dun &

Bradstreet software services spinoff. Narayanan and his wife are clearly ambivalent

about the move--they live in a gated community east of town that appears to have

been airlifted straight from Florida and are currently planning to stay only a couple of

years. But still, they're here. "It's no longer considered hardship duty," Narayanan

says.



For another bunch of Bangaloreans, the call-center workers, the very idea of hardship

is so, well, dated. In the late 1990s, GE Capital pioneered the practice of putting

Indians on the phone with Americans. This first call center was in Gurgaon, then an

obscure Delhi suburb. Now Gurgaon is bursting with glass office towers and glitzy

shopping malls, and call centers have spread to every major Indian city--including

Bangalore. In the process, they've spawned a consumer generation unlike any the

country has ever seen. Indian call-center workers may make a lot less money than

Americans (salaries start at about $ 2,000 a year), but they make a lot more money

than fresh-out-of-college Indians who aren't computer geniuses have ever made

before.



My first encounter with this new India is at the Bangalore offices of Msource, which

runs call centers for financial institutions in the U.S. and Britain. I tell the six young

Msource employees gathered around me that I've heard call-center workers are

materialistic, brand-crazy sorts who drink and smoke a lot. That's right, they tell me. I

ask about their aspirations, if they hope to own a house and a car by the time they're

40. Most nod. "I want it by the time I'm 28," says Anshul Pathak, 23.



Actually, although Pathak still lives with his parents, he already has the car. He joined

Msource a year and a half ago and proved so good at cajoling American deadbeats

into paying off credit card debt that he now trains new hires to do the same. Along

with his Maruti Suzuki 800 subcompact, he has a Bajaj Pulsar motorcycle. His mobile

phone is a Sony Ericsson T610 with a built-in camera. He banks with Citibank. On

nights off he hangs out with friends in bars where he favors the local beer, Kingfisher,

but others go for foreign concoctions like Bacardi mixed with Sprite. Or they go to

Starbucks-like coffee shops where a cappuccino costs $ 1--an absurdly large sum to

older Indians. Pathak watches American movies, That '70s Show, MTV. He brushes

his teeth with Colgate. He owns a pair of Nikes and a pair of Reeboks. While much

has been made in the U.S. media of how Indian call-center workers are trained to

sound more American, the best "training" of all is simply the lives they lead.



It's not all slavish imitation, either. India at its best is a lot like the U.S. at its best--a

nation of staggering ethnic and religious diversity that somehow holds together by

dint of tolerance and a sense of shared destiny. And now that India wants to join the

material world, it seems churlish for Americans to begrudge it entry. "For the last 20

years, you've been telling countries like India and China to adopt free markets and

join the global economy," says Nilekani of Infosys. "Now that we're doing it, you can't

just say, 'Stop it!'"



In fact, we probably really can't. India and the U.S. are already entwined in an

economic embrace far more intimate than that which has traditionally linked trading

partners, one that could be exceedingly painful to get out of. These guys know what

we owe on our credit cards, after all.



FEEDBACK jfox@fortunemail.com



BOX STORY:



LAND OF OPPORTUNITY Outsourced jobs are popping up in every major Indian

city. Next stop: the provinces.



MUMBAI (BOMBAY) Outsourcing and IT workers: 62,050 Focus: Financial research,

back office, software Who's there: Morgan Stanley, Citigroup, TCS, Mphasis, i-Flex

Solutions



PUNE Workers: 7,300 Focus: Call centers, chip design, embedded software Who's

there: Msource, C-Dac, Persistent Systems, Zensar



BANGALORE Workers: 109,500 Focus: Chip design, software, bio-informatics, call

centers, IT consulting, tax processing Who's there: Intel, IBM, SAP, SAS, Dell, Cisco,

TI, Motorola, HP, Oracle, Yahoo, AOL, E&Y, Accenture, Wipro, Infosys, Msource



DELHI Workers: 73,000 Focus: Call centers, transaction processing, chip design,

software Who's there: GE, American Express, STMicroelectronics, Wipro

Spectramind, Convergys, Daksh



KOLKATA (CALCUTTA) Workers: 7,300 Focus: Consulting, software Who's there:

PwC, IBM, ITC Infotech,TCS



HYDERABAD Workers: 36,500 Focus: Software, back office, product design Who's

there: HSBC, Microsoft, Satyam



CHENNAI (MADRAS) Workers: 51,100 Focus: Software, transaction processing,

animation Who's there: World Bank, Standard Chartered, Cognizant, Polaris, EDS,

Pentamedia Graphics



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