From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jun 9 18:32:54 1997
X-Authentication-Warning: arctic.st.usm.edu: fglamser owned process doing
-bs
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 17:13:17 -0500 (CDT)
From: Frank Glamser
To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Subject: BMW: K-Bike Heat Guard Modification
Reply-To: Frank Glamser
A couple of months ago I installed a set of heat guards on my K75RT.
Initial impressions were all positive. Over short distances and at
moderate speeds (
Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Subject: Re: BMW: R1100 Engine Guards
Reply-To: steve.aikensNoSpam@NoSpam3lefties.com
Gerald St.Hilaire wrote:
>
> I recently traded my '87 R65 for a '96 leftover R1100 RS. My dealer has
a
> set of BMW engine guards, but they looked a little wimpy. Tonight I
dropped
> the bike in the garage, in the dark. It went down slowly, I'm not in
the
> same weight class, and scuffed the right valve cover. I think just
where the
> engine guard would have been. I'm having second thoughts about the
guards
> but am wondering if there are other aftermarket guards which are
better.
>
> I appreciate the imput, thanks.
Did the exact same thing the first night I brought my '93 RS home from
the dealer with 246 miles on it. Rained hard for the last 125 miles
home and when I went to pop it up on the center stand, my foot slipped
off the centerstand pad. When that happens, especially with these
R1100's, you're already past the center of gravity and lifting/pushing
away from you. No way are you going to be able to hold the bike up. In
my case, it started a three bike domino fall into my sidcar rig. My
bodywork suffered the only scars (on this bike - the other two are a
different story %^{), but if the bike had hit the ground, cylinder
guards would have been worth the money. I don't know of anyone that
makes an aftermarket.
Also, the above is the reason I made "The Woman" start selling
"Centerstand Pad Covers" (pretty cool marketing name, huh?). It's a
square of 3M Marine Grade non-skid, self-adhesive tape. If BMW had the
foresight to not make the damn pad of smooth flat steel, or put
something on it to make it non-skid, my bike never would have fallen.
BTW, that non-skid is available in most boat shops and RV centers.
Wherever you get it - get some.
--
I don't suffer from insanity.....I enjoy every minute of it!
Steve Aikens, Clovis, New Mexico
steve.aikensNoSpam@NoSpam3lefties.com
My BMW URL is http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/4323/
Don't drop by very often, it never changes.
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jun 10 09:32:25 1997
From: "David R. Norton"
To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 06:06:54 -0700
Subject: Re: BMW: K centerstand
Reply-To: "David R. Norton"
> Date: Mon, 09 Jun 1997 22:30:00 -0400
> From: Don Eilenberger
> Subject: BMW: K centerstand - correction!
> PS: Still waiting to hear if the straight leg stand will fit in
> place of the curved leg stand!
Why? The straight leg stand is known for sinking into the asphalt
or dirt and dumping the bike onto the side mirror which then cracks
the main fairing section. Repairs = $3,000.00.
One of our local club members is still sobbing about this two years
after his new K1100LT fell over.
Butt, I really question if you or anyone wants the straight leg
stand, unless modified with larger "footpads".
David R. Norton
Phoenix, Arizona USA
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jun 10 12:08:40 1997
X-Authentication-Warning: arctic.st.usm.edu: fglamser owned process doing
-bs
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 10:36:59 -0500 (CDT)
From: Frank Glamser
To: Geoff Adams
Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Subject: BMW: K-Bike Heat Guard
Reply-To: Frank Glamser
Hi Geoff,
My understanding is that they are no longer being manufactured, but I
could be mistaken. I got mine two months ago from A&S BMW in California.
Sam Lepore spotted them on the wall and posted the info on this list.
Their numbers are 1-800-689-9893 and 1-916-726-7334. The manufacturer is
(was ?) Husky Mountain, P.O. Box 593, Kingston, TN 37763,
ph.1-615-376-4968. I've been told the address and phone number are a dead
end, but you may have better luck. The product is definitely worth the
hunt. Let me know if you have any luck.
Frank Glamser
Hattiesburg, Mississippi
'92 K75RT BMW RoM
On Mon, 9 Jun 1997, Geoff Adams wrote:
> Are the K heat shields still available? I'd like to have the source.
> Thanks.
>
> Geoff Adams '85KRS MOA 22753 TBC
> Arlington, TX IBMWR BMWDFW NTCOF
> tbcNoSpam@NoSpamdfw.net LSBMWR
>
> "We are confronted with insurmountable opportunities!" -Pogo.
>
_________________________________________________________________________
___
>
>
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jun 10 14:20:44 1997
From: Tom Nash
To: "'bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com'"
Subject: BMW: Re: 85K side covers
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 10:26:12 -0700
Reply-To: Tom Nash
A couple of us short guys have a constant problem with the side covers =
on the K-bikes popping loose. The length of my legs (or lack thereof) =
forces the inside of my thigh to rest against the side covers when =
stopped, popping the front of the side cover off the pin. This happened
=
with my '85 K100RT, and it happens with my present '94 K1100RS.
The way I solved the problem was to drill two tiny holes in the bases of
=
the side cover tabs that grip the pin, install a short section of =
aircraft safety wire through one hole, make a loop of safety wire that =
goes around behind the pin, and insert the end of the wire into the =
other hole. The end result is a completely closed circle of side cover =
and safety wire to slip over the pin. You re-install the side cover by =
slipping the wire over the pin while sliding the cover forward, and then
=
snapping the middle and read attach points in place.
Now, when my leg presses against the side cover, the safety wire keeps =
it in place.
The only downside to this is that if you take your bike in for service, =
you have to remember to tell the mechanic that the safety wire is there.
=
Otherwise, he/she may grab the side cover and yank, with the risk of =
breaking either the cover or the fairing-mounted pin. I usually just =
tape a post-it note to each side cover to remind him.
If your tabs are broken, there may still be enough tab material left to =
allow this safety wire installation.
Tom Nash
'94 K1100RS
San Francisco
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jun 10 22:00:26 1997
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 04:35:10 -0400
To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
From: Don Eilenberger
Subject: BMW: re: K vibrations
Cc: Clif Lines
Reply-To: Don Eilenberger
Clif asks:
>Subject: BMW: re: K vibrations
>
>Thanks to everyone for the info on vibrations. While I was changing
grips,
>I noticed a lead
>bar in the handle bars for vibration damping, is that standard on an '85
K?
>I was thinking of
>a Bobs Wrist-rest before I found the lead bar, do I have to remove the
whole
>bar or just
>enough of the lead to get the "rest" in, and another weight on the other
side?
>Clif,
> Clif Lines http://stripe.colorado.edu/~lines/clif.html
> Boulder, Co.
Very much non-standard. I'd actually be interested if you tried
riding the bike with/without it and report back on if it makes
any difference.
As far as Bob's Wrist Rest - I'm sure it's a fine device, butt, if
you can find it - the BMW throttle lock screw performs the same
function at a somewhat lesser cost.. mine was about $7. If you
look on the bottom of the throttle grip housing - there should
be a small plastic plug. Pull out the plug and a threaded hole
is revealed..
I know the name of the throttle lock screw was changed last
year, and that it became somewhat harder to find. It is a
knurled knob, with a fine pitch threaded portion (which happens
to be exactly the size to fit into the hole) and a teflon
end.. you adjust to the amount of throttle drag you want.
I have mine set so I can release the throttle for at least 30-40
seconds without the speed dropping (it will slowly drop a bit
after that).. this allows:
1. Removing right hand from bars to zip zippers, do things and
stretch a bit
2. Removes a lot (all actually) of the force required to hold the
throttle open. Without it, I'm in pain after about an hour. With
it 7-8 hours is NO problem.
3. Makes riding the bike smoother. The K engine winds down BIG
time when the throttle is released, without some drag, I tend to
release it too quickly, making the bike lurch on the suspension
a bit. With it, I can do smooth transitions.. YMMV, but everyone
I know with one sez the same thing.
If you decide to go with the Wrist Rest, I'm sure hacking a lump
of the lead off isn't going to change whatever effect it is having.
Best,
=======================================
Don Eilenberger
Spring Lk Hts, NJ, USA
deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com
=======================================
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jun 11 00:43:10 1997
From: jkfletchNoSpam@NoSpamerols.com
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 23:22:58 -0700
To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Subject: BMW: Re: bmw-K100RS Fairing
Reply-To: jkfletchNoSpam@NoSpamerols.com
Bjorn Ramsvik writes:
>
> I have experienced a lot of wind noise and buffeting on my K 100RS.
What
> about after market shields.
Bjorn,
I put the Aeroflow "Aeroscreen" for the K100RS on my bike last summer and
it eliminated
wind noise buffeting etc. I don't like the looks of it for full time
use, but since its
velcro'ed on, you can remove it in one quick pull. I usually only use it
for long rides
or when I'm carrying a passenger.
Jim Fletcher, Greenbelt MD
88 K75RS (Autobahn)
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jun 11 13:54:57 1997
X-Authentication-Warning: arctic.st.usm.edu: fglamser owned process doing
-bs
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 12:18:11 -0500 (CDT)
From: Frank Glamser
To: Don Eilenberger
Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com, Clif Lines
Subject: Re: BMW: re: K vibrations
Reply-To: Frank Glamser
Even more convenient is the Flip-a-lever,IMO.
Frank Glamser
Hattiesburg, Mississippi
'92 K75RT BMW RoM
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 12 19:31:45 1997
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 19:05:08 -0500
To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
From: Sean Reid
Subject: BMW: More about Baker Built
Reply-To: Sean Reid
Several people asked for details on the Air Wings. They actually look
fine in dark tint and go fairly well with the lines of either the KRT or
KRS fairing. Actually, I'd have them even if they were incredibly ugly
because I hate being slow-broiled while riding. The company can be
reached at 800-451-9464. My other RT suggestion is to have Charlie at
Parabellum (or someone else) build an 8"-10" tall "summer shield" - low
enough to put your helmet in "clean air" (in terms of noise). The Air
Wings combined with the low shield (which also looks fine) make a huge
improvement and the bike may even handle better w/o the big windshield
pushing on it way above its cg. Good luck with the experimenting...
Sean Reid sreidNoSpam@NoSpamsover.net
Northeastern Motorcycle Tours
New England, the Adirondacks and the Canadian Maritimes
http://www.ariasoft.com/mctours
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 12 19:49:22 1997
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 18:26:58 -0500
From: corkreed
To: Sean Reid
Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Subject: Re: BMW: More about Baker Built
X-Priority: 3 (Normal)
Reply-To: corkreed
Sean Reid wrote:
> Several people asked for details on the Air Wings. They actually
> look
> fine in dark tint and go fairly well with the lines of either the KRT
> or
> KRS fairing. Actually, I'd have them even if they were incredibly
> ugly
> because I hate being slow-broiled while riding. The company can be
> reached at 800-451-9464. My other RT suggestion is to have Charlie
> at
> Parabellum (or someone else) build an 8"-10" tall "summer shield" -
> low
> enough to put your helmet in "clean air" (in terms of noise). The Air
>
> Wings combined with the low shield (which also looks fine) make a huge
>
> improvement and the bike may even handle better w/o the big windshield
>
> pushing on it way above its cg. Good luck with the experimenting...
> Sean Reid sreidNoSpam@NoSpamsover.net
> Northeastern Motorcycle Tours
> New England, the Adirondacks and the Canadian Maritimes
> http://www.ariasoft.com/mctours
To all.
The air wings are great. I bought a pair for my k-bike at the national
in Madison Ind. What was it 87 or 88. I now have them on my third
bike!!!
Try 'em.
Also at that time there was a lot of experimenting on running the return
line for the gas thru a cooler. One duuude at that rally told me he had
reduced the tank temp. by 67 degrees.
If it works, don't knock it :-]]]
Respectfully submitted,
Corky
--
new net
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jun 13 01:56:08 1997
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 22:45:00 -0700
From: Mark Gensman
Organization: Business Resource Group, Inc.
To: John Moore
Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Subject: Re: BMW: Another reason I like my K-bike (& a question)
Reply-To: Mark Gensman
John Moore wrote:
>
> I forgot to mention on an earlier posting that
> my 87 KRS "fits" my 6'5" frame -- it has a
> nice long wheelbase.
>
> Which brings up my question:
>
> I was toying with the idea of an LT. When I
> sat on one, I found out that my knees touched
> the back edge of the fairing! Any other tall
> folks on the list have that problem? How did
> you deal with it? If I have a custom seat made
> -- with the riders "dish" set back 1.5" -- it will
> probably fit me, but cramp SWMBO. Any
> solution, or am I destined to ride the RS for
> life?
>
> thanks
>
> john
I had the same problem on the demo of the 95 K1100 I bought last
October. At the same time I sat on the owners 91 K and really liked the
seat better. I ordered mine with a 91 seat and it sits farther back than
the stock 95 seat. I now have a brand new stock 95 seat for sale with 5
whold miles on it.
--
Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com
95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll"
K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet"
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jun 16 20:01:17 1997
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 15:30:23 -0400
From: FLETCHER.J.K-NoSpam@NoSpampostal.essd.northgrum.com (FLETCHER.J.K-)
Subject: BMW: BMW- K75RS conversion, long term test report (short)
To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Reply-To: FLETCHER.J.K-NoSpam@NoSpampostal.essd.northgrum.com
(FLETCHER.J.K-)
Its been about a year since I did the conversion on the K75.
Putting
that K100RS fairing on the bike was the best thing I ever did. The
"S" fairing just wasm't enough protection and I wasn't ready for the
RT. Having the versatility of using the removeable Aeroflow
windshield really make the bike a sweet touring ride on long trips.
If theres any interest, I can post the pros and cons of the
conversion
and some of the details of what it takes to do this mod. In the
mean
time, I can't think of any reason to part with a K75 with an RS
fairing.
Jim Fletcher, Greenbelt MD
88 K75RS (Autobahn)
moa/ra/ama/bmwbmw/k-whiners
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jun 17 12:44:56 1997
Date: 17 Jun 1997 09:53:39 -0500
From: "Diaz Jon"
Subject: BMW: Charcoal can removal
To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Cc: "Bob"
Reply-To: "Diaz Jon"
Bob Morrow wrote:
>I've heard that removing the fuel canister on the R1100 is desireable.
>Is there anything to be gained by doing this, other than removing a
>rust-prone eyesore from the bike? Also, my GS has what appears to be
>an electrically powered valve connected to one of the three vent hoses
>on the canister. What does this do?
That valve just lets the fuel vapor into the cylinders when the bike is
running. I left it installed and plugged in....while removing the
rubber hoses to both sides.
Removing the can is simple: buy a couple of K bike vacuum plugs from
the dealer (we haven't found anything that holds up as well as those)
and plug the throttle body vacuum taps with them, detach the fuel tank
breather line from the canister and route it down near the footpeg
with the other rubber lines, and remove the extraneous hoses.
Jon Diaz
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jun 18 08:59:19 1997
Date: 18 Jun 1997 07:22:56 -0500
From: "Diaz Jon"
Subject: RE: BMW: Charcoal can removal
To: "Christopher S Stoddard"
Cc: "BMW Mailing List"
Reply-To: "Diaz Jon"
Chris Stoddard asked:
>You didn't answer the full question, Jon. Why disconnect/remove the
>thing in the first place?
Some folks on the R1100 list had trouble with them plugging up and
stopping the bike cold (we won't get into the story about the guy
who watched the sides of his fuel tank get sucked in from internal
vacuum :)), so right when I got my RS, I yanked all that stuff, and
plugged the taps just like the Canadian R1100's.
Jon Diaz
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 19 00:28:15 1997
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 21:02:27 -0700
From: Gary Wasserman
To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Subject: RE: BMW: Charcoal can removal
Reply-To: Gary Wasserman
> Chris Stoddard asked:
>
> >You didn't answer the full question, Jon. Why disconnect/remove the
> >thing in the first place?
>
> Some folks on the R1100 list had trouble with them plugging up and
> stopping the bike cold (we won't get into the story about the guy
> who watched the sides of his fuel tank get sucked in from internal
> vacuum :)), so right when I got my RS, I yanked all that stuff, and
> plugged the taps just like the Canadian R1100's.
>
> Jon Diaz
>
Frankly there is also the related issue of having a variable flow
through the deteriorating carbon confuse the fuel injection, the issue
of the same effect making synchronization less predictable, and also the
questionable effect of carbon dust getting sucked into your engine. On
the surface it seems that the carbon dust would seem to be something you
wouldn't want in your intake mix.
And of course there is the fact that in exchange for removing a gadget
that does demonstrably *NOTHING* you get a much nicer looking bike! :-)
For the gruesome details of carbon cannister removal you can check out
http://www.teleport.com/~grw/cannister_horn.html
--
================================================
Gary Wasserman
Portland, OR
mailto:grwNoSpam@NoSpamteleport.com
http://www.teleport.com/~grw
"A completely irrational attraction to BMW bikes"
BMWMOA, BMWRA, GSBMWRA, AMA, MSF, DoD#216, etc.
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 19 05:34:44 1997
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 09:16:27 -0600
To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
From: Jim Normandeau
Subject: BMW: re; Radar detector wiring
Reply-To: Jim Normandeau
>Mike Cornett:
>>So where would you wire in your radar detector? I'd rather not use the
>>accessory outlet if I don't have to. The V-1 comes with a nice direct
line
>>that could be crimped onto something.
>
>I have mine powered off the circuit for the parking light.
>
> tom "bookawitz" coradeschi
tcoraNoSpam@NoSpamskylands.ibmwr.org
> Skylands (NJ) BMW Riders
>
>------------------------------
There is also an accessory wire ( i think it's brown) under you fuel
tank,
where all the other wires are clumped together. look in your manual it
will
tell you which one. I have my det. plugged into this. It's only powered
when the bike is on.
Jim
James E. Normandeau
UNAVCO
3340 Mitchell Lane
Boulder, CO 80302
Phone:303-497-8008/8040
Fax: 303-497-8028
Web: www.unavco.ucar.edu
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jun 24 09:18:58 1997
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 09:04:48 -0400
From: FLETCHER.J.K-NoSpam@NoSpampostal.essd.northgrum.com (FLETCHER.J.K-)
Subject: Re[2]: BMW: K75RS conversion
To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Reply-To: FLETCHER.J.K-NoSpam@NoSpampostal.essd.northgrum.com
(FLETCHER.J.K-)
> Tim Spencer wrote:
I came across a K100 fairing and heard that they could be put on a K75
but that
it was not done very often. The project appealed to me. I started
encountering challenges before long. How do I get the trim between the
tank and fairing (in front of the knees) to fit a K75 tank?
>
Tim,
To get the K100RS knee pad trim pieces to fit nicely around the K75 tank
you can either cut and file them to match, or you can change the tank. I
opt'ed to use a K100 tank so that every thing would match up. This is an
expensive choice but it fits perfectly and the fuel pump etc are
interchangeable. You can buy a used tank and have it painted with the
rest of the parts. Just don't get a '85 tank because the mounts are
different, all the other years will fit.
Jon Diaz, who also did this conversion, filed his knee pads to fit.
This is somewhat difficult since the knee pads have a metal core, but its
a hell of a lot cheaper (and I'm still trying to sell my old K75 tank).
You might ask him how it turned out.
> How do I bolt the K100 fairing the the K75 engine? Etc, etc.
Use the K100RS lower engine mounts. Its a perfect match and the K75
engine has the corresponding threads in the block for the bolts. The
upper fairing is mounted to the steering head with a K100RS main bracket.
This also bolts right on, but make sure you re-attach the fluid block
screws in the right place for the steering dampener.
The K100RS fairing pretty much bolts right on to the K75 with the
exception of the two upper brackets between the upper fairing and the
lower side pieces. These parts you have to make, but don't fret. The
brackets don't really take on much of a load and I've determined they
really only provide a stiffness for vibration. I merely bent some metal
strips which I bolted to the two K75S upper mounts that attach to the
frame.
There is some electrical splicing to do for the integrated turn signals
and Fiamm horns. You need to get a K100RS wiring harness for this. This
is a short harness with a few wires which interface in the fairing area,
no big deal. Routing of the wiring is critical so not to interfere with
steering control.
I plan on writing an article on the whole process, but in the mean time,
please ask any questions along the way since you are currently working
through this.
> Please let me know if you and your RS will be in F'burg next week,
I'd like to meet you both!
Last minute job duties will prevent me from attending. I will be at the
RA rally in Fontana however.
Jim Fletcher, Greenbelt MD
K75RS (Autobahn)
moa/ra/ama/bmwbmw/k-whiners
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jun 25 13:43:38 1997
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 09:45:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jerome Cook
To: Ben1364NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com
Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Subject: Re: BMW: RADIO for R1100RT?/used or aftermarket?
Reply-To: Jerome Cook
Crutchfield has a sony that can be installed in the R11RT
it has a remote on a cable with most of the functions that you will ever
need.
there is an article in the latest OIL RAG if you dont belong to the
OILHEADS please subscribe. Ill fax you an applicaton
its $15 per year
We have quarterly newsletters for now. they are excellent.
also there is a R1100 mail group
Understand that the SONY is not a plug & play. you must connect the
wires the old fashioned way.
a radio shop would be able to help you.
in the DC area Hurleys can install the Sony
Speakers are also available from crutchfield if youi order the right
part#
Infinity kappa DIN
cheers jerry cook
On Wed, 25 Jun
1997 Ben1364NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com wrote:
>
> Do any of you good folks know of a source for used or aftermarket
radios to
> fit R1100RTs? BMW NA is VERY proud of theirs! A couple of the bikes
that I
> am considering lack radios. Thanks in advance. Ben White/Biloxi
>
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 26 12:23:56 1997
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 10:02:41 -0400
From: "Roy G.Daum"
To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Subject: BMW: Aftermarket Radio for R1100RT
Reply-To: "Roy G.Daum"
Ben you asked about an aftermartket radio for an r1100rt. I have a 96
rt. I purchased a sony am-fm cassett, built a fiberglass holding
container (a box). I installed the box inside the fairing pocket. The
sony comes with a wired remote switch. I then used the J & M helmet
speakers for full face helmets. Wife and I really enjoy the setup. J &
M supplies the redio antenae. Sony radio cost about $125. After all
the talk about the radio and speaker system by BMW, I chose an
aftermarket product. Hope this helps.
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jun 30 08:54:58 1997
From: "LACKO, JOHN, HMR/US"
To: "'SMTP:bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com'"
Subject: BMW: Re: R75/5 VW conversion
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 97 08:32:00 EDT
Reply-To: "LACKO, JOHN, HMR/US"
Avery Frail asks:
>Has anyone heard of a VW conversion kit for slash fives? It would
>include an engine/gearbox adapter, intake manifolds, exhaust headers,
>oil sump extender, motor mounts.
>I've more or less purchased such a machine (subject to the obligatory
>lien checks etc.) It's very well done, looks factory. I went to see the
>bike out of curiosity, expecting to find it tied together with baling
wire.
Avery, the kit was real, and offered in the 1970's to those die-hard BMW
riders who needed just a 'bit' more power than the factory offered. I
sent
for some literature back around 1975, and at that time kits were offered
for
the 1955-69 twins, along with /5 & /6 models. There were several
different
parts & services offered, including the basic trans-to-engine adapter &
necessary frame modifications. I just didn't have the heart to
permanently
modify my R90/6 frame, so I never did the conversion..
I've run across several 55-69 twins that have been converted, but have
only
heard of but never seen any post-69 bikes done. There can't have been
that
many done, that's for sure.
The kit was made by Willis Engineering out in California, and Roger
Willis
was the driving force behind the project. The business closed down years
ago, but I understand that Roger is still alive and well. Whoever did
the
changeover on your (future?) bike spent a good deal of money to do it at
the
time, because unless memory fails me, you could spend anywhere from
$600-1,200 on the conversion, depending on how many parts you bought and
how much of the work Willis did for you. If it's a Willis adapter, it
should have the company name in the part somewhere. I've heard that
other
people also made engine-to-trans adapters, but Willis was the best
available. jl
John Lacko lackoNoSpam@NoSpambrwhcc3.hcc.com
P.S. I've also heard that the VW conversions threw off so much heat that
they were un-rideable during hot Summer days, but can't verify that
first-hand!
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 2 06:50:34 1997
From: Tom Austin
To: "'bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com'"
Cc: "'tsmith2NoSpam@NoSpamwhsun1.wh.whoi.edu'"
,
"'MTCollNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com'"
Subject: BMW: Dual Fiamm Horn Installation on the R1100RT
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 14:52:29 -0700
X-Priority: 3
Reply-To: Tom Austin
I have had several requests to post a detailed description of how I
mounted dual Fiamm horns on my R1100RT. The procedure I used involves
hanging both of the new horns off of the stock mounting stud using the
brackets that come with the new horns, with an extra hole drilled in
them. Detailed instructions for modifying the brackets and completing
the installation are presented below.
Parts Needed:
1. Fiamm "Sound Master" twin electric horns. Mine were purchased from =
a
Kragen Auto Parts store in Sacramento, CA for just over $20.
2. 18 gauge wire.
3. Solderless terminal connectors.
Tools Needed:
1. 3 mm allen wrench to remove and replace fairing fasteners and
under-fairing storage compartment.
2. 4 mm allen wrench used in removing under-fairing storage =
compartment.
3. 9 mm wrench to remove plastic covered nut used inside under-fairing
storage compartment.
4. Crimping tool/wire cutter/stripper.
5. 13 mm wrench to remove stock horn and reinstall new brackets.
6. 10 mm wrench to install Fiamm horns on new brackets.
7. 5/16 and 1/4 inch drill bits and drill.
8. Grinder or file.
Instructions:
1. Remove seat, plastic side cover under handle for lifting bike onto
center stand, and left fairing panel. The fairing panel is attached by
16 fasteners, one of which is a non-removable cam-lock type fastener at
upper rear of fairing panel. The most difficult fastener to access is
located under the mirror. The mirror is pop-off design. Remove by
holding mirror housing in one hand (to minimize how far it moves when
knocked loose) and striking outer edge of mirror toward the front of
bike. Twist bulb holder out of mirror housing to disconnect housing
from wiring harness. (This is easier than removing the wires at the
connectors.) Now remove all sixteen fasteners with 3 mm allen wrench.
There are three different lengths of fasteners, so pay attention to
where they came from. Longest fastener is behind the mirror housing.
Next longest fasteners are the three that come from the bottom rear.
2. Remove the storage compartment located under the fairing. (Note:
this is the compartment that holds the radio on the RTL. My bike =
didn't
have a radio, so there may be additional steps required to get this =
unit
out of the way on a radio-equipped RT. I think the horn installation =
is
possible without removing this compartment, but it is easier with the
compartment removed.) The storage compartment is attached at four
locations. In addition, there is a clip attached to the storage
compartment that holds the speedometer cable in place. The speedo =
cable
clip is removed with a 3 mm allen wrench. One of the other fasteners
also requires a 3 mm allen wrench. Two of the fasteners are 4mm socket
head cap screws. These fasteners also hold the inlet air horn in =
place.
The last fastener is a plastic-coated 9mm hex nut located inside the
storage compartment at the top.
3. Remove the stock horn. The stock horn is suspended from a bracket
that is mounted to a stud with a 13 mm nut. First, disconnect the two
connectors attached to the positive and negative spade-type terminals =
on
the horn. These will pull right off after you pull back the rubber
boots covering the connectors. Then disconnect the mounting bracket by
removing the 13 mm nut. Rob Lentini's instructions for the =
installation
of Fiamms on the RS call for throwing the stock horn as far away as
possible. To avoid the possibility that the stock horn is found and
used by someone else, I recommend that you first drive a wooden stake
through the center of the horn, then throw it as far as possible.
4. Modify the new mounting brackets. The mounting brackets that came
with the "Sound Master" horns were about 3.5 inches long, which is just
slightly longer than the stock bracket. The other difference between
the stock bracket and the brackets supplied with the Fiamms is that the
Fiamm brackets have a bend at one end while the stock bracket is
straight. Looking at them from the side, this is what the brackets =
that
came with my Fiamms looked like:
|
|
|
|
|
/ =20
|
There is a hole drilled in each end of the bracket, one for mounting =
the
horn and one for mounting to the vehicle. For the RT installation, I
had to modify the brackets by drilling another hole in them, in
accordance with the following diagram:
top
||
To: Mike King
Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Subject: Re: BMW: Saeng edging
Reply-To: Art Campbell
I only use a foot, across the top of the little BMW winglet on my
RS. Moves the blast up an inch or two.
Tell the phone guy what you want it for; they have high level
of knowledge about what applications work. They only give a 50/50
success rate for sport fairings.
The SAENG phone guys will sell you less than the 3' minimum on
special occasions . . . for example, I bought some of their one-
step cleaner/polish and they sold me 1' . Ask about their "courtesy
cut."
Cheers,
Art
Art Campbell artcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
ArtCampbellNoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com
"... In my opinion, there's nothing in this world beats a '52 Vincent
and a redheaded girl." -- Richard Thompson
No disclaimers apply.
DoD 358
On Thu, 17 Jul 1997, Mike King wrote:
>
> Dear Prezes,
> I'm probably chewing on some old meat here, but how effective is the
Saeng
> edging. I've got a K75 with the BMW windshield and the flow blasts and
> roars right into my helmet. The stuff ain't cheap at ten bucks a foot
(3
> foot min. order). Is it worth it?
>
> Mike King
> San Francisco
> K75
> R80RT
> R75/5
>
>
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 17 20:04:52 1997
From: Joe Monenschein
Subject: BMW: RE:SAENG Edging
To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 17:53:24 -0600 (MDT)
Reply-To: Joe Monenschein
>Dear Prezes,
>I'm probably chewing on some old meat here, but how effective is the
Saeng
>edging. I've got a K75 with the BMW windshield and the flow blasts and
>roars right into my helmet. The stuff ain't cheap at ten bucks a foot (3
>foot min. order). Is it worth it?
>
>Mike King
I have a K100 standard with a bmw windshield and I put the saeng edging
on. It looks good and cost a lot. I think the frequency of the roar
may have changed a couple of Hz. Probably with an open cockpit
the thread about quiet helmets might be the closest to the mark
although I'm not quite yet finished using my Aria (sp?). If you do
decide to install the edging, you'll need some sort of mallet to get
it on (I used a hammer) and if you go crazy and buy enough to go all
the way around (like I did) your best bet is to put a bead of silicon
sealant on the last 3 or 4 inches (where the windshield takes a right
angle bend) in order to keep your mind on the road and off the flapping
strip of edging hanging from your bike.
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jul 18 12:22:35 1997
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 11:48:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rick Povich
To: Mike King
Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Subject: Re: BMW: Saeng edging
X: I'd rather be two-wheelin'
Reply-To: Rick Povich
On Thu, 17 Jul 1997, Mike King wrote:
> I'm probably chewing on some old meat here, but how effective is the
Saeng
> edging. I've got a K75 with the BMW windshield and the flow blasts and
> roars right into my helmet. The stuff ain't cheap at ten bucks a foot
(3
> foot min. order). Is it worth it?
If your K windshield comes up to about eye-level when you're riding, the
Saeng
edging will help you. It channels the wind (and rain) about 3" or so
higher.
I have it on 2 of my bikes and it does make a difference for me.
It's really pretty easy to install, too, especially if you get it warmed
up in
the sun. Saeng re-designed the edging in the past couple years and it's
more
effective than the older version.
Rick Povich
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Rick Povich University of Pittsburgh
Media Producer Audiovisual Department
SHUTTER+NoSpam@NoSpamPITT.EDU (814) 269-7103 Johnstown,
Pa. 15904
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Subject: BMW: Saeng edging (and other nifty stuff a F'berg))
Reply-To: Dennis & Karen Withner
>From: mkingNoSpam@NoSpamsirius.com (Mike King)
>Dear Prezes,
>I'm probably chewing on some old meat here, but how effective is the
Saeng
>edging. I've got a K75 with the BMW windshield and the flow blasts and
>roars right into my helmet. The stuff ain't cheap at ten bucks a foot (3
>foot min. order). Is it worth it?
Mike,
I asked the same question near a year ago. At the national
in F'berg I got some. My bike has a Leuftmeister fairing and I bought
enough to do the whole edge. Actually I measured w/ a steel tape
that the folks at Aeroflow loaned me and got a piece two inches too
long NoSpam@NoSpam $1.00 per inch. Oh woe is me, wasted $2/2 beers.
Or, was it a
devious ploy by the vendor to sell more edging.
Saeng wasn't at the show as I hoped they would be, but Aeroflow
folks were prudent in bringing along a roll of the stuff. Said a lot
of their customers want it. Made ME happyas it was one of the things
I hoped to get while at the big shew.
Does it work? Well, the advice said stick three inches of
your fingers where U want to put the edging and see what difference
it makes, which is supposed to approximate what the edging is going
to do. I had previous done the finger test on a few occasions and
that did make some difference in noise level, and recommends from
prezes were good.
The difference it made was that on the 2700 miles back from
F'berg I was no longer worrying about impending total hearing loss as I
had been on the way down. I ride tall and use a Duotech and plugs. The
Saeng works as advertised, so get ur fingers up there, or tape some
plastic up for an Idea of the difference. MUCH quieter. Another easier
and more realistic way to do the *test* is to just duck down about 3"
while underway. Only thing I woud like to see different would be to
have the stuff in clear instead of black, though U do get more or less
used to it except when on a rough road or high wind when the screen
moves a lot.
Also purchased on the trip was the large RKA tank bag. Didn't
see these guys first time around the vendor area and I was UNHAPPY.
Found them the 2nd day. Didn't see em' U know, even though I walked
right by them. Just thinking about how well designed and made my
bag is makes me all warm inside! Functional art. I looked at em'
all and nothing compairs, also the advice of prezes. Got the rain cover
and didn't need it on the way back. Karma.
Picked up a Hyperlite set too. Had it up and running in about 20
minutes at the camp site. I fell better now. Smokin' credit card.
My battery decided it had worked for long enough on saturday
morning. ONE of the shops there luckily had ONE left for my bike(R100/7).
So I got to do that drill too.
Only things I got on the trip that I didn't want were two bent
rims due to following too close behind a motor home in attempting to
pass, and driving into a miniature version of the grand canyon on
a bridge deck. (Watch out for those bridge decks, lots of bad stuff
there).
Oh yea, also had the the two nifty sets of self stowing camp cuttlery I
bought stolen of of my top case in Montrose, CO , in front of a friends
house, along w/ my fanny pack and some misc. stuff. Good trip all in
all.
Lets see Mike, what was it U asked about??? Yep, it was
worth it.
see U aroundel
Dennis (DMW)
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Dennis Maxwell, & Karen Lee, Withner
BMWRA/AIRHEADS/MOA/ULC
Ham-NX7D SSI-IT #123 Ham-KA7EJO
ANDI,NAUI,YMCA,PADI Diving Travel Agent
Washington Divers Inc.
903 N State St, Bellingham WA 98225
ph 360-676-8029 fax 360-647-5028
~Diving Educators and Outfitters since 1973~
77' R100/7 "Educator" Carpe Beemum - (sieze the Beemer)
***********************
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jul 18 20:58:47 1997
From: WARUSZEWSKNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 17:49:51 -0400 (EDT)
To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Subject: BMW: Re: Saeng Edging
Reply-To: WARUSZEWSKNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com
I have tried it on the parabelem on my KRS. Without it, if I lower my
head
about an inch or two there is an extreem difference in wind noise. In
this
application the Saeng edging did nothing except provide a visual
obsctuction.
With the Luftmeister windshield the noise is much greater and again, no
effect. While I have heard of it working well in some applications, in
these
two it did not.
VIC WARUSZEWSKI, SoD # 21, VI #1 MOA 85 K100RS
BMW Touring Club of Detroit MOA#1, Motor City Beemers
Team K-Basa # 3 http://pages.prodigy.com/bmwtcd
Behind every man who achieves success
Stand a mother, a wife and the IRS.
Ethel Jacobson,
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jul 21 11:24:25 1997
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 10:04:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: Rand Z Rasmussen
To: kellye culberth
Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Subject: Re: BMW: adhesive question
Reply-To: Rand Z Rasmussen
This was a thread about two years ago. I used common white bathtub
silicone on mine and they have held fast through four scortching North
Dakota Summers and four Freezing North Dakota winters.
rand
On Sat, 19 Jul 1997, kellye culberth wrote:
>
>
> I have a pair of (used) knee pads that I'd like to put on the tank
> of my K75. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what sort of
> adhesive would be suitable for this application?
>
> Thanks,
>
> kellye
> ~~~
> kellye culberth
> 1992 BMW K75RT, 1985 Kawasaki GPz550
> MOA #77148 BMWRA #22299
> Plano, Tx
>
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jul 21 12:26:14 1997
From: CFACTORNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 12:10:07 -0400 (EDT)
To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Subject: BMW: K bike Aeroflow fairing
Reply-To: CFACTORNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com
Greetings all,
I just called Aeroflow and purchased a blemished K bike fairing for only
$135. The cut out in the middle of the fairing allowing air flow on both
sides is off center by 1/4 in. No problem for me. Just wanted to let
anyone
know that it is worth it to ask about defects, blemished items. Good
deal.
Chas Walter
87 K100RS
From Solipsist9NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Sun Jul 13 15:33:06 1997
From: Solipsist9NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 15:32:39 -0400 (EDT)
To: roozbehNoSpam@NoSpamwco.com, thundtNoSpam@NoSpamslack.net,
bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Subject: Re: BMW: Theft proofing your plates
why do all that work to create a "rivet" type when you can can just use
rivets. that worked for me. get a rivet gun and some rivets and the only
way
to get them off is to drill them. easier than all that work.
john
solipsist9NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jul 22 23:28:33 1997
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 22:06:59 -0600
To: BMWmcdudeNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com
From: Steven Huber
Subject: BMW: re: Seang edging- removal?
Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Reply-To: Steven Huber
Wherin Prez Hans ponders:
... slight bobbit of text...
> however what if I decide to remove it? does it
>mark the edges of the windshield? If I understand correctly it must be
>applied with a mallet, I imagine it to be similar to autombile
windlacing
>which has metal clips inside, does the Saeng?
Depends on how A-R you are about the screen. There is a slight possibilty
of marks being left. Clean the screen well and try some spit, this will
help. I found that what few marks that were on my K75S screen easily
removed with some plastic polish.
BTW, it doesn't always need a mallet to fit on. Was a simple push on with
my Aeroflow, used a screwdriver handle to tap it on with the stock K75S
screen.
************************************************************************
Steven Huber '88 R100RX '90 K75S
IBMWR, BMWRA, BMW MOA, AMA, G.O.B #17, IBMC, UMCI
Madison, WI
shuberNoSpam@NoSpamitis.com
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 23 02:41:48 1997
From: "ynotfix"
To: "bmwmc"
Cc: "bmwmc"
Subject: BMW: Aeroflow
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 23:26:21 -0700
X-Priority: 3
Reply-To: "ynotfix"
Fellow Prezzes;
Just picked up my new Aeroflow for the K11RS. I AM IMPRESSED!
Possibly the easist accessory I could install. It fit just right, and the
instructions were detailed and accurate.
As far as function, it's great. The envelope is exactly what I was
hoping for and it seems to be as stable as ever, even at elevated speeds.
I was able to obtain a factory "blem" at a considerable savings, but
in light of how well it works it is a good deal at list price. The blem
on
mine was due to some minute bubbles in the plastic. As I view the road
over
the shield, this is no problem for me. Their product is definitely of the
highest quality.
If you are considering this unit I highly recomend it . The guys at the
factory are great too, all Beemer riders, and they know what they are
talking about. C-Ya, goin ridin!
Tony Angco
'96 K1100RS, '96 Triumph Trident 900
'84 Honda XLV750R
M/C Krazy
" If I can just get off of this (DAMN) L.A. freeway...."
Thanks to Guy Clark for the quote.
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 23 15:04:26 1997
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 11:41:59 -0700
From: "jerome N. Harris"
To: TMFBikerNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com
Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Subject: BMW: BarBacks
Reply-To: "jerome N. Harris"
I installed bar backs vis the local dealer on my R1100RSL to try and get
some relief for a back problem (Doc said to sit more upright). No
problems although the front brake line needs replaced with a longer one
which makes the whole thing a bit pricier given BMW parts costs.
However the guys at Santa Cruz BMW had a new line off a Triumph that
they had put different bars on which I got for $10 making the whole
thing tolerable. The only other comment is that the bar backs tend to
give you more leverage against the rubber mounted bar and hence a longer
movement of the handles. Don't know if this would make anything subject
to breaking under aggressive riding like the breaking that occurred
with earlier model R1100 mounts. But they definitely are available.
Jerry Harris
'96 R1100RSL
'73 R75/5
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 23 23:19:20 1997
From: "ynotfix"
To:
Cc: "bmwmc"
Subject: BMW: Re: K1100RS Bar Backs or "C" Bars?
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 19:59:29 -0700
X-Priority: 3
Reply-To: "ynotfix"
Hi Ted;
I first want to thank you for your input on the Aeroflow. It was
very
helpful in my decision to get one, a decision that I'm real glad I made!
What a great item. It's everything you said and then some. I never did
find
out what you felt in the twistys but this one seems to be just fine.
Next, Re: bar backs.... I also found there is no barbak for the
K1100RS.
I wound up creating my own bar setup, I took a set of Honda bars (off of
an
older 400cc four cyl.) and bent the ends up about 2", and back about
2.5".
I did this by heating the bar carefully, and slooowly pressuring the ends
to where I wanted them. If you did not want to use this method , I heard
that there is a bar that has a similar bend on some BMW of the past. Also
there is a company in Pasadena,CA called Flanders that has a very large
selection of bends available. If you tell them the rise, sweep, length,
and
pullback they should be able to match something up. (And more
economically)
The modification that I made was done without any change of hardware
other
than the bar. The only hitch is the BMW bar is a tiny bit smaller ,
everything will work except for the throttle housing because it isn't
"split" and the new bars are just a little too big. I solved the problem
by
using a brake cylinder hone to slightly enlarge the housing "bore". It
only
takes a little so it's necessary to "hone a little and check the fit". I
think I have moved the grip position as far as possible without changing
the hoses, or cables, but your bike may have a bit more,(or less) slack
than mine. If I can help in any way don't hesitate to ask.( I live 15min.
away from Flanders.)
Tony Angco
'96 K1100RS, '96 Triumph Trident 900
'84 Honda XLV750R
M/C Krazy
" If I can just get off of this (DAMN) L.A. freeway...."
Thanks to Guy Clark for the quote.
----------
> From: TMFBikerNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com
> To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
> Subject: BMW: K1100RS Bar Backs or "C" Bars?
> Date: Wednesday, July 23, 1997 8:40 AM
>
>
> Hello All,
>
> Much as I found the bar position on my K75S a bit too sporty, I am
> increasingly finding with my K1100RS. On the K75S I installed the
European
> "C" Bar/Heated Grips combo and that did the trick. As this is a bit
> expensive (and a PITA to be sure :) I was wondering about alternatives
such
> as Bar Backs. I called my local dealer and was told they are not
available
> for K1100RS', but thought I would just make sure :)
> So, has anyone heard of them for a K1100RS? If so, how much? Were
they
a
> pain to install ('95 K1100RS) and were any new cables or hoses needed?
>
> TIA!
>
> ~~~~~~~~~ http://users.aol.com/esquireted/moto.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Ted Verrill - EsquireTedNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com -
TedVNoSpam@NoSpamFool.com - K1100RS (Zephyr)
> Georgetown, Washington DC, USA - HOYA JD '94 - Joe's Toadies
> IBMWR - BMWBMW - BMWMOA - BMWRA - GG#3 - SoD#7
> BMWBMW Newsletter Editor, "Between The Spokes"
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Visit http://www.bmwbmw.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Aug 11 13:45:33 1997
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 13:01:45 -0400
From: FLETCHER.J.K-NoSpam@NoSpampostal.essd.northgrum.com (FLETCHER.J.K-)
Subject: BMW: Aeroflow for KRS
To: garyjhNoSpam@NoSpambernstein.com, bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Reply-To: FLETCHER.J.K-NoSpam@NoSpampostal.essd.northgrum.com
(FLETCHER.J.K-)
X-No-Archive: yes
Gary,
I read about your struggle with wind abatement on your K11RS. I had
similar wind buffeting problems with my old K75s with its Aeroflow.
The solution was to add the Saeng "wing" deflector to the top of the
Aeroflow. This is not the edging, but a plastic strip about 9" long
by 4" high. This REALLY added a large margin of wind deflection.
The
piece was adjustable so you can match the angle, and thus the
airflow
to your own needs. Saeng also sells "winglets" to augment the main
wing, however, I didn't find them to be very effective.
I can't add much as far as the "pulling" goes. This might be
physics
in action.
BTW, you are one tough dude to take on the iron butt with your neck
pains. Go get em!!
Jim Fletcher
88 K75RS (Autobahn)
From "Hayes, Scott"
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 15:16:39 -0700
From: "Hayes, Scott"
Subject: BMW: Highway pegs for the K11LT
Joseph Luther wrote:
>
> At the recent Husker Rally hosted by the Nebraska BMW Night Riders, I
saw
> several KLTs with highway pegs mounted on the engine guards (case
guards).
> All owners seemed satisfied with this option but were, strangely, not
> enthusiastic.
>
> Any pro or con arguements for installation of highway pegs on the
K1100LT?
>
> Any recommendations for type or model of pegs?
>
> Also saw a K75 luggage rack installed on the top of the top case of the
KLT.
??
> Joe Luther
> Nebraska
> K1100LT - "EXIT"
>
I bought a set from my local Honda dealer. They are heavy chrome and
have rubber "O" rings around the body. They work very well and provide
relief on a long trip. They also allow you to get your legs out of the
heat.
- - --
Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com
95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll"
K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet"
From "Wes Knipmeyer"
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 18:51 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: BMW: Footpegs, Threads N Flames
Tech Tip: I replaced the stock R1100GS
footpegs with R100GS/PD foot pegs. This lowered the footpegs 1" and
moved them forward 1" and fits me perfect (5'11"). I used the PD
spring and spacer and an allen head bolt with nylock nut for the
footpeg pin. Drilled a small hole in the footpeg mounting plate near
the bottom hole for the footpeg pin for the spring tang to fit in.
From VroadracerNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 20:09:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: BMW: Turbo/ more power on R100 R
Erik, I have two turbo twins, one is 650cc, and the other is 1,000cc and
both
are in 81 R-65 bikes. When I put the turbo on the 1,000cc bike , the
rear
wheel horsepower went from 48 HP to 76HP with no other changes. It made
58
ft. lbs. torque at 5,000 rpm. It is fun to ride and more than enough to
keep
you from having to say you are sorry for not being able to keep up with
your
other BMW riding friends. The older twins with a turbo has a good power
to
weight ratio and doesn`t need a lot more HP. The down side of the turbo
is
the extra heat in the summertime and at stoplights. The extra heat
causes
the exhaust valves to wear out a litttle quicker, but you have to realize
that "a turbo bike is like a bar of soap, every time you use it, a little
bit
of it goes away". However, it is a fun machine that is worth the down
side
to those of us who ride them. Riding a turbo is much like carrying a
gun in
the old west, you don`t have to use it if there is no reason , but it
sure is
good to have if you need it! I have 85,000 plus miles on my turbo and I
have
no intention of changing to something else. Your best chance of finding
one
is to scan the Flea Market section of the BMW OWNERS NEWS as Luftmeister
no
longer makes them for the older twin. If I can help you any other way,
e-mail me at VroadracerNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Jerry Settle BMWMOA
AMBASSADOR
From "Rob Lentini"
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 1997 18:32:13 -0700
Subject: BMW: Fw: RS vs GS intake tubes
An anonymous benefactor writes the following regarding the installation
of
GS intake tubes on an RS/RT:
====
Rob Lentini wrote:
> >
> > Who of out there has actually replaced their RS intake tubes with the
> > narrower (higher velocity) GS items? I saw the dyno chart provided
by
> > Anthonie, but is there any first-hand experience with this?
>
> I've replaced them on my R11RT a few months ago. At this time this was
> kind of an insider tip in Germany. Aparrently the knowledge is in the
> public domain by now.
>
> After I'd modified my RT in this way I considered mailing my
experiences
> to the list, but modifications of this kind (and almost any other kind)
> are forbidden in Regulation-Germany, leading not only to conflicts with
> the law but even to insurance problems in case of an accident. So I
> better refrained from discussing this in the public (even the mailing
> list). Sorry about my paranoia, but it wasn't me who invented those
> draconic german rules.
>
> Now to your question. Yes, the approvement is stunning. Too strong to
be
> explained by the placebo effect alone. With the additional torque
> especially in the region between 3000 and 4000 rpm it now feels in 3rd
> gear almost as in 2nd gear before. I was delighted.
>
> It's true that this improvement is payed for at the high end of the rpm
> scale. Classical tuning knowledge. But at least for me it's not really
> noticible. I shift up before 6500 rpm, anyway. Top speed may be
affected
> by the few missing HPs. However, my RT still runs 200 km/h (speedo
> reading) with bags, and that's more than enough for me. I don't feel
> comfortable at >160 km/h, anyway.
>
> So, if you are a fan of plenty low end torque, try it out. Replacing
the
> tubes is not really difficult. All you need to do is to dismount the
> throttle body to move it out of the way. The fuel line doesn't need to
> be disconnected. It can be bent far enough (carefully). Only the
> throttle position sensor plug and the grounding wire on the left side
> need to be removed.
>
> Now the original intake tubes can be pushed slightly into the air box
> and turned (they are lightly curved) to an angle where you can pull
them
> out completely without interfering with the throttle body. Insert the
> new tube the same way and reattach everything the way it was before. A
> throttle body synchronisation is advised afterwards, of course.
>
> If you don't know about the modification, you almost can't tell the
> difference from the outside. The new tubes have only a slightly smaller
> diameter, but are about twice as long. The long ends, however, are
> hidden in the air box.
>
> After the modification the motor sounds louder and more aggressive to
> the rider (intake valve sounds etc.). I believe that this is due to the
> longer intake tubes. They are transporting the sounds to almost under
> the air filter, so it takes a more direct way to the outside and is
> therefore less muffled than with the original tubes. In a way, however,
> this nicely matches the increased torque one gets. :-)
>
> Well, that's it. If you have any questions, just ask, and if you like
to
> pass this text to other people, just do so, but please anonymize it for
> the reasons I pointed out above.
====
Thanks my friend,
Rob Lentini
'94 R1100RS
Tucson AZ
H 520-790-8865 W 520-295-6411
Three Flags Classic #205
Instructor, Motorcycle Safety Foundation
Director, BMW Motorcycle Owners of America
I WILL RIDE MORE AND POLITIC LESS
From CDTyler1NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 00:33:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: BMW: Help! Need Adhesive Advice
In a message dated 97-09-16 14:51:25 EDT, J. F. Brown writes:
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 20:40:26 -0700
Subject: BMW: Mirror problem solved
Tom,
I now have a Beemer-Davidson. :) A stock Harley-Davidson long-shaft
mirror fits in the handlebar hole, does not interfere with the fairing,
and
works pretty well.
Tom Nash
'94 K1100RS
San Francisco
From Mark Gensman
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 07:13:16 -0700
Subject: Re: BMW: Help! Need Adhesive Advice
L G Burnett wrote:
>
> ----SNIP----
> >
> > I need some advice...
> >
> > My R11RT has a rubber pad on the tank, just forward of the seat, that
> > serves as a "belt buckle protector".
>
> 3M makes an adhesive for trim on automobiles. I glued on some
cloisonne
> BMW Motorsport emblems on my sidecar rig about seven years ago, and
they
> show no sign of coming off. You might also consider 3M weatherstrip
> adhesive.
>
> Buddy Burnett
> Nashville, Tennessee
- -- I used 3M spray on adhesive to glue the rubber knee pads to my 78
100/7. They have been on for 7 years now and show no sign of coming off.
Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com
95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll"
K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet"
From walker
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 20:11:00 -0600
Subject: re: BMW: R1100 GS case guards/ crash bars
Rick LeVine wrote:
>I was looking for case guards / crash bars for my 95 R1100 GS...
I have the factory scuff guards (Kevlar?) on my bags; together with the
stock plastic head guards, these prevented damage in a low-speed drop.
Bob Henig (Bob's BMW) advises against aftermaket (including BMW) guards
on R1100 series bikes. They can apparently cause damage to the steering
head subframe in a spill.
Walker, 96 R1100GSA, Boulder, Colorado, USA
walkerNoSpam@NoSpamsofmag.com
From jfbrownNoSpam@NoSpamCCGATE.HAC.COM
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 09:10:37 PST8
Subject: BMW: RE: Adhesive Help - Thanks!
Hi All,
Just want to thank everybody who responded to my query re a good adhesive
to reglue my rubber protective belt buckle pad to the tank.
I wound up using 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. Dick M. called it
"yellow
peril" and he wasn't kidding! This stuff *REALLY* sticks... I shoulda
used
disposible latex gloves. Had a helluva time getting the stuff off my
hands.
I don't think I'll have any future problems with the pad coming off!
J.F. Brown
1983 R80ST "NO PIKL"
1997 R11RT "NOIR RAD"
IBMWR, AMA, MOA, RA, BOOF, DoD, VI
+----------------------------------------------+
| jfbrownNoSpam@NoSpampower.net (J.F. Brown) |
| Net Surfin' from Manhattan Beach, California |
+----------------------------------------------+
From joutlanNoSpam@NoSpamiag.net (John H. Outlan)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 16:09:09 -0400
Subject: BMW: Subj Chg: Fiamm install on R11GS...easy way..
=46iamm horn install for dummies: Tech wizards please excuse the
simplicity of this post :)
Just to post something other than Fontana, I thought I would add this
little tid bit of knowledge concerning a quick Fiamm Horn install on
the 11GS.
After Terry Evans made fun of my horn at the South Carolina Welcome
Center :), upon arriving back to Florida I purchased a _single_ Fiamm
snailshell horn, Model F, the Freeway Blaster, low note. I wanted to
increase the decibel level, but have a simpler installation than a
dual set up, even though I know how to do it. The single Fiamm horn
is much, much louder than stock, at least as loud as my cage, and
brackets right up there where the stock horn sat, using the existing
wiring. You will need to use the angle bracket that comes with the
horn, since the snail shell is rotated 90 degrees from the stock horn
with respect to the connectors. When angling the bracket make sure
the Horn clears the clutch cable and the front shock. This will leave
the horn, in my case, pointing down and slightly forward, which I
think should be good enough to keep it from flooding with water.
Be careful not to pinch the horn wiring when reinstalling the new
bracket where you took off the original.
Remember, don't remove the stock horn from the bracket, remove the
entire bracket with the horn attached, then pull the wires. Very
easy.
If you're set on dual horns, I saw a GS with them mounted under the
silver decorative cover plates (between gas tank and headlight) in the
middle using the existing screw there on the bottom, connected with
the angle brackets that come with the snailshells. Of course you'll
have to split and extend the wiring.
=46WIW,
John O.
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 17:05:11 -0400
From: joutlanNoSpam@NoSpamiag.net (John H. Outlan)
Subject: Re: BMW: Re: Fiamm install on R11GS...easy way.
On Fri, 26 Sep 97 12:43:07 PDT, "Tom Hill"
wrote:
|:
Subject: BMW: K1100 Bigger Tank
Wuedo will take a stock tank, re-work it so that it goes up to about 27
(from 19) liters. It's pricy though, about $500.00. Looks almost stock
at
first glance, but has a deeper, rounder back. The standard tank bag will
no longer work as the modified tank is much deeper. Maybe you can find
someone in the USA that can weld and form sheet aluminum as well as the
Germans.
Bob in Munich
'94 K1100RS
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 07:33:32 -0400
From: "Robert L. Altic Jr."
Subject: BMW: K11 Gas Tank
> How do you K types out there manage? Does anyone sell a replacement
gas
> tank for the K that looks like the stock one but gets it up to 6 or 7
or
> even 9 like on the old slash 5 series bikes?
>
Jerry,
There is a man in Texas who can enlarge the stock tank by about
3-4 gallons. Contact Ray Randolph in Texas, 806-785-1522. I have
an extra tank that I was going to do it to, but have decided not to.
If you or anyone on the list is interested in a K1100 LT tank, very
good condition, with one very, very small scratch/ding on the side,
it is for sale for $400 or best offer. The knee pads and emblems are
attached and in excellent shape. Color is Pacific Blue. The new
tank cost the insurance company over $1000. If you or any presidents
are interested, drop me a line privately. OBTW, buy the K, you'll
love it on the road. Best to all,
Bob Altic
balticNoSpam@NoSpamrichmond.infi.net
76505.2111NoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com
Sandston, VA 23150
K Whiner #44 1993 BMW K1100 LTA
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 07:17:26 -0700
From: Mark Gensman
Subject: BMW: K1100 modifications list
Just for the record I thought I would list the modifications I have made
to my 95 K1100LT since I bought it last October:
1. Solid mount the handlebars.
2. Installed freeway pegs on the crash bars.
3. Installed Valentine V-1 radar detector with remote and helmet
speaker.
4. Removed rear speaker assembly, installed Corbin backrest, installed
steel eyelets for bungees in top lid, repainted top lid flat black to
match the rest of the box and for quick touch up after carrying stuff on
top.
5. Purchased two Bunz-ez pads.
6. Installed Fox shock.
7. Installed quick release one quart drink holder over the tach.
8. Installed zipper pouch above speedo/tach for holding sunglasses etc.
9. Removed radio and front speakers.
10. Cut off end ears of left fairing pocket cover, hinged lid and
installed cigarette lighter in front portion and built a false bottom to
cover the wiring harness. Makes a very handy storage pocket accessable
at speed.
11. Installed two 55 watt halogen driving lights under the headlight
with the switch mounted in the plastic handlebar cover next to the
windshield control switch.
12. Installed Hyper-lights.
13. Today I am buying a modified Staintune exhaust system. It has the
touring can that has been modified by Staintune to be between the
touring can and the sport can. It actually costs me $20.00. (I won
$600.00 last night playing video poker on a $20.00 bet). Purchase price
is $600.00.
14. Bought and use a Battery Tender.
That's all for now. I'm waiting for a performance chip to become
available and I still plan on installing White Power front fork springs.
That should just about do it. (for now)
Anybody requesting information on any of this stuff just needs to ask..
11. Installed Air Wings which totally cured any heat problem.
12. Purchased two BMW electric vests.
- --
Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com
95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll"
K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet"
Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 00:21:50
From: Larry Fears
Subject: BMW: New tank and stuff
Well folks the bike mods are about finished and I am beyond pleased with
the results. I took delivery of this LT May 1 of this year and as many
of
you remember I got a smokin' deal from Morton's because it was a never
titled '93 BMWNA test bike. I was a bit leary of the purchase at first
but
Steve and Jeff at Morton's managed to convince BMW to give me a 3 year
unlimited mileage warranty and it has turned out to be just the bike I
had
been looking for. Even so about 2 months ago I decided that I needed to
get several custom touches done to it to get it to where I wanted it to
be.
With that in mind the mods began.
Right off the bat I put a Russel seat on it. I have no desire to restart
a
thread that has been beaten to death but in my opinion there is nothing
on
the market today that can beat a Russel. The stock seat, in a word,
sucks
and I've tried Corbin. For me, the Corbin was good until about 500 miles
then I was in agony. With the Russel I regulary knock out 700 - 800 mile
days and my butt feels great. Sometimes I throw on a sheepskin for added
comfort but never because I feel I have to. Well worth the money and
wait.
Cost: About $300
The next mod was a Throttlemeister. I've gotten to the point now that I
use the thing every time I ride. I like the fact that I don't have to
maintain a constant heavy grip on the throttle all of the time. Also
thanks to my get off in '96 it gives my metal filled wrist a break. In
my
opinion the ultimate and best throttle lock out there is the
Throttlemeister. It installs in minutes and fits perfectly and it also
looks great with the brushed aluminum. Cost: about $100
The next big area that needed to be addressed was the pathetic state of
lighting on a stock LT. The stock 55 watt headlight is mediocre at best
and don't even get me started on the rear. My solution for the front was
to install a set of PIAA 910 driving lights. I did alot of research
before
deciding on these but with 110 watts of lighting per driving light I
finally decided on the 910's. These things are absolutely fabulous.
They
quite literally turn the night into day. I decided to mount them up high
for better spread and Reynolds makes a special bracket just for the K
bikes
for this. The bracket mounts between the mirror and the fairing and
seems
to be rock solid. In the future I may wire the switch directly to the
high
beams but for now I used a stock BMW rocker switch and placed it in one
of
the dummy slots I had on the dash. I even bought the little insert for
the
switch that looks like a fog light. :-) All in all I love the result. As
you will note the cost was rather high but after going through what it
took
to pull the bike apart to install the lights I was glad I had spent the
money. The thought of having to go through all of that again after I
discovered those "wal-mart" specials don't work would just piss me off.
For
the rear I used a combination of black and white reflective tape for
passive reflection. Actual lighting mods included a set of K running
lights. These replace your stock turn signals and put them into double
duty as turn signals and running lights. Made a big difference. Next
was
the installation of Hyper lights to help with people seeing me when
stopped. After having them on for a few weeks I definitely notice people
stopping further back. Last but not least was the installation of a neon
license plate frame. Believe it or not it really helps with lighting up
the
rear and besides it makes me look more like my hero, Greg Pink. :-)
Cost:
PIIA 910's $260; Reynolds Bracket $73; BMW Rocker switch with insert $25;
K
Runnin' Lights $28; Hyper lights $47; Neon Frame $69.
Last but not least was in the area of fuel management. I've long felt
that
it was ridiculous that BMW would build their touring machine with a
meager
5.2 gallons of gas. The first thing I did in the area of fuel management
was to install a fuel +. This thing is just beyond cool. Lots of useful
information at your fingertips. It will tell you how many miles
remaining
on the tank, fuel economy, how many miles since you filled up, how many
miles you have run that day, elapsed riding time and average speed. It
does
several other things but I haven't finished reading the manual yet. At
first you might think that this is yet another useless gadget but I found
that I was extending my fuel stops with confidence on the way down to
Fontana. Next on the mods was just pure gas capacity increase. I
considered the various options available, fuel cells and larger tanks and
decided to go with a custom built tank. I had a guy in TX build me a 8.5
gallon tank from a stock LT tank. He basically cuts and welds the tank
to
increase the capacity. I isntalled it this past Saturday and it is just
too cool. First of all I really like the looks of it. Big and bulky
just
like me. :-) The guy told me he was a welder not a painter so it is
going
to need a trip to the paint shop but it was well worth it. I most likely
will put up with the mismatched paint and weld spots until tax season
starts and I can't ride anyway. My first ride on it was a joy. I simply
loved putting that much gas in my bike and I because I swapped the parts
from the stock tank the gas guage mechanism is set up for the 5.2 gallon
tank. So what? Well the bike didn't come off of full for 148 miles. :-
)
I can and will recalibrate my fuel plus for the larger capacity so this
isn't that big of a concern. Cost: Fuel + $180 plus a bunch of begging
to
get Brian Curry to install it.; Tank $400 plus whatever it will take to
get
it painted.
The only other mod I did was to purchase the helmet speaker option for my
stock LT radio. I know alot of people say they can't hear there stereo
at
speed but I have never had any problems. I installed the helmet speaker
thing with the bass monsters only so I can hear my talking books a bit
better. (for those cross country trips and stuck in traffic days. :-) ) I
haven't installed it yet so I can't say how well it works but everyone
who
has them loves them. Cost: Helmet jack $25; Bass Monsters $27.
So there it is folks. After a whole bunch of $ ( I purposely refuse to
add
it all up) and some serious sweat time the bike is ready for some serious
miles. Hell it's not that I want to be a high miler I just want to look
like one. :-) Hmmm.... what did I do with that catalog for GPS's?
Off to NC this weekend to run the Tarbutt.
Larry Fears
lgfcoNoSpam@NoSpamerols.com
'93 K1100LTA "Blue Max"
'85 K100RT "Gumby" R.I.P.
'92 Mazda Miata "Half Cage"
Gaithersburg, MD
AMA, MOA, BMWBMW, SOD #5, Reindeer Rider
BMWBMW Rides Chairman
*** "This whole working thing really gets in the way of my riding."-
Me***
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 05:32:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dana Priesing
Subject: Re: BMW: K1100 modifications list
You all are embarassing me. Here's my list of K11RS mods:
1. Front fender extension. $25.
2. Manual fan switch. $100.
3. Mirror leashes. $18.
4. Mounting plates for Va. stickers. $10.
5. BMWNA 100,000 mile medallion. No charge.
Dana Priesing
Arlington VA
94 K11RS
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 10:36:01 -0500
From: jlutherNoSpam@NoSpamunlinfo.unl.edu (Joseph Luther)
Subject: Re: BMW: k1100LT Fuel Tank Size
Speaking of K1100LT gas tank sizes ...
On the way to Sturgis, I had an interesting conversation with a fellow in
Buffalo WYO who was riding a trick K1100LT set up for the Iron Butt run.
It had a seven (7) gallon fuel cell mounted under the passenger seat and
into the tail compartment. The dual seat was a custom design, with the
pillion being sharply higher than the riders seat. Looked okay though.
So, this guy had about 12 gallons to run on. Let's see, that works out
to
about 500 miles range.
Story was that he bought it from a guy who had it or got it in the Iron
Butt - but the Iron Butt rider couldn't ride it anymore because he had a
significant number of speeding tickets in excess of 100 mph resulting in
loss of license.
Joe Luther
Nebraska
K1100LT - "EXIT"
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 22:02:50 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Adams
Subject: Re: BMW: k1100LT Fuel Tank Size
On Mon, 29 Sep 1997, Jerry Harris wrote:
> How do you K types out there manage? Does anyone sell a replacement
gas
> tank for the K that looks like the stock one but gets it up to 6 or 7
or
> even 9 like on the old slash 5 series bikes?
Contact BMW of Fort Worth. On Sunday I saw a K11LT with an 8gl tank.
Very nice work. Price unknown. 817-429-2182
Geoff Adams, Arlington, TX tbcNoSpam@NoSpamdfw.net
Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 14:59:58 -0700
From: Ted Witting
Subject: BMW: Big Ass K fuel tank
Just in case anyone's intersted:
Aloha BMW (503-642-2269 near Portland, OR) has a 10 gallon K-bike fuel
tank
hanging against the wall. It does not specify which K (are they
interchangeable?). The tank is white with a wide blue stripe (approx 6"
wide) running from front to rear accross the top (sort of the old Shelby
Mustang look). The asking price is $1895 (yikes).
No affiliation other than being a happy customer...(but then again, where
I
used to live, the closest dealer was 2+ hours...now I have two that are
but
a local phone call away...how can I not be a happy customer)
Ted Witting
'78 R100S
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 19:31:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven Eisenberg
Subject: BMW: Bar backs
The RS position is the best one for your back, if that matters. When you
lean forward your arms take the weight AND the shock when you hit a bump
and you vertibrae are not compressed. I shoiuld know I have had back
surgery and both neurologist agree on the lean forward position. When
you
sit upright you back takes all the punishment and if it tends to hurt
regularly then it will hurt more with that position. There are down
sides
to RS positioning but then there are draw backs to the scooter style
anyhow. I'd recommend NOT barbacks, and enjoy the lean
Steve Eisenberg
Date: 6 Oct 1997 11:42:16 U
From: "Diaz Jon"
Subject: BMW: R1100RT hot grips
Ben wrote:
>I am contemplating the installation of heated grips on my R1100RT and
have
>three questions that I would like to pose to the learned Presidents.
>1) Do heated grips work at highway speeds?
Oh yeah.
>2) Do heated grips place a major burden on the battery/charging system?
Not on an R1100RT. I think they are only a four-amp draw.
>3) Which heated grips are best...BMW brand or an after-market brand, if
>aftermarket, which do you recommend?
I would spend the $$ on the BMW ones.....fully connectorized, includes
a high and low setting, and they are HOT mothers. And they are actually
molded from decently compliant rubber....not that rock-hard stuff the
snomobilers use. Those snowmobile jobs remind me of the wheels on my
old Radio Flyer wagon.....
Jon Diaz
Date: Tue, 07 Oct 97 12:59:10 -0500
From: "Bob Davis"
Subject: BMW: Welding Frames
Hi All!
Just my thought on welding accessories to the frame >>>don't
Subject: BMW: Re: screen replacement for K75s
At 01:20 PM 10/6/97 -0400, Tom Keen wrote:
>anybody got any experience with the aeroflow replacement screen for
>the k75S.. any suggestions on reducing the buffeting?
Tom,
I am quite happy with the help that the Aeroflow gives me for touring on
my
K75S.
I am just under 6' tall. With the regular BMW screen, the wind stream
off
of the windshield hits me around the chin. With the Aeroflow, the stream
hits the upper portion of my helmet. And then I added Saeng edging to
the
Aeroflow (buy a 4' strip to do the whole shield), and the stream moved up
another inch and got a bit "softer". The extra width of the Aeroflow
gives
an extra measure of rain protection, too, for your torso.
All of this is *not* going to turn the S into an LT/RT. But for me it
makes it much more enjoyable to run all day long at 75 or 80 mph, when I
need to get to another part of the country. (Yeah, I know that's wimp
speed for you Big Dogs out there. ;-)
Thumbs up for the K75S Aeroflow.
Bob
************************************************************
Bob Taylor
Director, Academic Technologies
Northwestern University, Evanston, IL
bob-taylorNoSpam@NoSpamnwu.edu *** 1988 K75S
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 21:19:59 -0400
From: Brian Curry
Subject: Re: BMW: What's the Story w/ Barbacks
At 12:05 PM 10/1/97 -0600, Jay Martin wrote:
>
>Uprightly Seated Prez,
>
>I have been seriously considering getting a Russell seat, but thought I
>better have my seating position nailed down before taking the pictures
>Russell wants with the seat order. To get a bit more upright, I figure
I
>should add barbacks. Last night I am at the dealers and ask for pricing
>information and get a response that now has me puzzled.
>
>1. "You can not get good barbacks anymore. Occasionally we get some in,
>used."
>Q: How can one tell a good barback from a bad one?
They are made of metal, not wood. ;);)
>2. "Barbacks will result in the loss of feel for the bike, especially if
I
>ride fast."
>Q: Is this "loss of feel" something that only a Dr. Curve could detect?
Not that I can tell, mine are made of metal. Plus the fasteners are
tight,
not loose.
>3. "I would be better off to install different handlebars."
>Q: My R90 does NOT have the short, low S bars. What then are my
options?
The R90S's I have seen is have bars with a small rise, not the real low
Euro-bars. The RT style bars would look real weird.
Bob's BMW sells "new" Bar backs. They are machined from solid aluminum
on a
Computer, Numerical, Controlled (CNC) milling machine. No effective
difference from the cast units formerly from Luftmeister.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
| "We cannot tolerate the proliferation of this paperwork any longer. |
| We must kill the people producing it." |
| - Vladimir Kabaidze 1936 |
| |
| Brian Curry, 1990 Blue K75RTs both coasts, Chester Springs, PA, USA |
| SoD #23 |
| |
| KGN- Improving Lives Around The World |
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 08:53:54 +-200
From: Matz Rosenquist
Subject: BMW: SV: Welding Frames
Hi to the same "All" --
Agreed !!!!
Having been to the HPN-works (the guys who made the Paris-Dakar winning =
BMW's in the '80's) and seen the work to straighten a BMW after =
reinforcements has been welded to the frame, I can assure you all that =
the frame is less than perfect after welding is finished.
Ok, their reinforcements are extensive, but I guess the same problem =
will occur even after small "operations".=20
Rgds
Mr MR
HPN G/S 1000 (older sister of Polkapig)
HONDA XR250 R
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 12:29:41 -0400
From: "Scott C. Adams"
Subject: Re: BMW: K75RT and K75LT
Don Eilenberger wrote:
> 4. Someone - sometime - made plastic inserts which filled the areas
> on the left and right'a the bike between the tank and the engine..
> more or less forcing the engine heat to travel backwards instead'a
> upwards. It appears these were only made for K75's.. I have not been
> able to find them new or used for the K100RT.. I'm making cardboard
> templates with the thought of making some for myself somehow.. if
> anyone KNOWS where these can be found - let Mike AND me know..
>
Geez Don, I can actually tell an old man like yourself something....
K-Guard Side Panels are made by:
Husky Mountain
PO Box 593
Kingston, TN 37763
423-376-4968
I just happen to have them on the KRS - LOVE EM. I did not buy them for
the heat but rather for the appearance. They DO help a lot with heat,
however.
- -Scott-
***********************************************************************
** SCOTT ADAMS (KB8PRS) or FRANCES ADAMS (KB8PRL) **
** adamsesqNoSpam@NoSpamgwis.com
fwaNoSpam@NoSpamsbstone.com **
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 09:00:56 -0400
From: Bob DeHaney
Subject: BMW: GS1100 Mods for the REAL Boonies
Saw an interesting thing on DSF sports TV, a WITEC BMW. They take a
GS1100 drive train put it in their own frame with a normal fork because
with the telelever they can only get 200mm of travel and with theirs
they=
get 300mm. They throw away the fuel injection, cat,etc. and put big
Bing=
s
on each cylinder cause ain't no Electronic FI testers in African or
South=
American jungles. No ABS of course. Its also 50 (fifty kg) =3D 110
poun=
ds
lighter than the standard GS. The bikes are essentially handmade so
they=
cost DM40000.00 which works out to about $22800.00 They include a
custom=
tank and seat. Probably can't pass any DOT smog and noise tests.
Bob in Munich
'94 K1100RS
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 10:00:29 EST
From: bkeaheyNoSpam@NoSpamuswest.com
Subject: Re: BMW: Gas flap
Addressed to: Geoff Adams
"Victor M. Kimura"
bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
** Reply to note from Geoff Adams Tue, 14 Oct
1997 09:19:29 -0500 (CDT)
>> Can any presidents out there think of a good reason for
>> not removing the gas flap? You know, it's that stupid metal
>> thing that keeps getting in your way when you try to
>> completely fill up your tank...
>
>The purpose of the flap is to keep you from completely filling your
tank,
>thus leaving room for expansion without pushing more vapor into the
>atmosphere or canisters. Putting in more fuel will probably cause some
>additional measure of polution due to this type of expansion or overload
>the charcoal canister on bikes that have them. FWIW.
Yes, and a very good reason, I think. My K75 still has the flap, but I
still used to pack all the gas I could into the tank, right up to the
underside of the flap. But no more, and here's why. I did this on a hot
day once, and drove straight home after filling the tank. At the gas
station, immediately after filling, the tank felt cold, because gasoline
storage tanks are underground. After getting home, I put the bike in the
garage. About an hour later I went into the garage and smelled strong
fuel vapors. After opening the garage door to vent them, I noticed a
pretty large puddle of gasoline under the bike. I felt the tank; it was
the
same temp as the rest of the bike and everything else in the garage. As
the gasoline in the tank warmed up to the amient temp. of the garage, it
expanded. Since the tank was brim full, it had nowhere to go but the
overflow dump tube. I am very glad I do not have a gas water heater in
the garage, and that I did not hit the garage door opener switch (a
potential spark source) before noticing the smell. The resultant
explosion
could have blown my house into the next county.
I do not try to pack the tank any more, and I will not remove the flap.
Bruce G. Keahey U S WEST Advanced Technologies Boulder, CO
"Never annoy anything that you can't outrun!"
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 97 09:56:07 -0400
From: Harris_Gary/ny_technologyNoSpam@NoSpamexplorer.siny.com
Subject: BMW: Gas flap
>So, if you remove the flap, you also need to remove the charcoal
>canister and re-route the overflow line so that it drains on the ground.
> tom "bookawitz" coradeschi
tcoraNoSpam@NoSpamskylands.ibmwr.org
And, after you've done this and you've taken advantage of the
additional useful capacity of your tank, don't use the side stand for
30 or so miles after filling (that is, if you fill to the max).
Otherwise, you'll have a nice puddle of wasted fuel right next to your
rear wheel.
Gary - NYC
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 14:55:56 -0400
From: "Scott C. Adams"
Reply-To: adamsesqNoSpam@NoSpamgwis.com
Organization: Attorney at Law, P.O. Box 4069, Akron, Ohio 44321-0069
To: thundtNoSpam@NoSpamslack.net
Subject: Re: Leaking Gas Cap Solved
Thomas Hundt wrote:
> Glad to be of help. Scott -- what's the deal with the cup?
> This is something you added? I never heard of this (which means,
> of course, that maybe it's something I need! :-)
It is a BMW "fix" for the problem of hoses always coming undone. Some
people dont like it because of "fumes under the tank." Basically you
take off the two vent hoses and this little cup thing fits in the corner
of the frame rails directly underneath where the two nipples come down
when you lower the tank. The fuel (if at all) flows into the cup and
then you connect one of the hoses to a nipple in the bottom of the cup.
Makes it easier to take the tank on and off, but destroys the closed
system allowing fumes to build up there. Trade off I guess.
-Scott
--
***********************************************************************
** SCOTT ADAMS (KB8PRS) or FRANCES ADAMS (KB8PRL) **
** adamsesqNoSpam@NoSpamgwis.com
fwaNoSpam@NoSpamsbstone.com **
** 1426 Copley Meadows, Copley, Ohio 44321, USA (North East Ohio) **
** Voice (330) 668-2006 Fax (330) 668-2006 **
** KWhiner MC#13 BMWMOA #61199 BMWRA AMA #270-228/270-229 **
** 91 K100RS16V(Mine) 86 K75C Low(Hers) Trailer Behind KRS(Baby) **
***********************************************************************
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 13:52:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: TymekNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com
Subject: Re: BMW: Re: Parabellum vs Aeroflow on R11RT
Yes, mine has the Aztec washers , installed per instructions, perhaps
mine
didn't have enough curve in it. The aeroflow is getting real close to the
paint when your running 100mph + , neither the aeroflow or the
parrabellum
are made of as substantial stock as the BMW screens.
As for airflow, I am talking in the fully lowered position, where the
laminer (spelling?) flow gives you nice smooth air to ride in, aeroflow
has a
larger mouth in the center to allow more air, this works very well, when
the
screen is up you get better coverage with the aeroflow also. I ride in
miserable hot weather, high humidity, when the screen is down, the extra
air
is nice.
have a good day,
Terry Meek
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 09:35:11 -0600
From: "Haynes, Joel"
Subject: BMW: RE: follow-up (R850R)
>Just one more question... My husband (He Who Worries)
>wants me to get crash bars to protect the cylinder heads
>in the event of the bike falling over. Do they exist?
>Are the cylinder heads likely to get expensively
>damaged in a tip-over? I don't "plan" to drop the bike,
>but stranger things have happened. Thanks again,
I had the misfortune of a driveway drop with my new R850R. My dealer
assured me that these things are so strongly built that in most cases
any damage is just cosmetic and limited to the valve cover. To
satisfy myself, I pulled the valve cover and checked the valve
clearances myself assuming that that would be the most sensitive
barometer of any problems. Result: valve clearances were right on.
Hammersley cycles (Lynchburg, VA; http://www.webparts.com/index.htm )
sold me a new valve cover for $64.00 plus shipping (cheaper than
protection bars).
Joel Haynes
Fort Collins, CO
97 R850R
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 09:42:37 EST
From: bkeaheyNoSpam@NoSpamuswest.com
Subject: Re: BMW: R65RS/RT
Addressed to: "Diaz Jon"
bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
** Reply to note from "Diaz Jon"
20 Oct 1997 10:58:21 U
>>The new owner of my ex, an 81 R65, is considering whether it might be
>>possible to put an R100RT or RS fairing on the bike. Anyone have any
>>notions on whether this is feasible?
>
>A local guy here has an R65RS, so it is definitely feasible. I don't
>know how much alteration is required to hold the main upper fairing
>mount, since I don't recall my R65 having threaded mounting bosses in
>the steering head. Maybe the bosses are there and I don't remember
>them.....I only had the bike a short time.
I'd really question the advisability of adding much weight/frontal area
to a
bike that is already marginal in the power department. I have added
Sprint RT-type fairing to my K75 standard. On the several occasions I've
had reason to test ride the bike with the fairing removed, the instant
increase difference is performance is noticeable. Without the fairing,
its a
hot rod; with it, well, it's about like a K75RT.
Something to think about.
Bruce G. Keahey U S WEST Advanced Technologies Boulder, CO
"Never annoy anything that you can't outrun!"
From jdunkleNoSpam@NoSpamworldnet.att.net Tue Oct 21 20:49:03 1997
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 20:51:24 -0400
To: Thomas Hundt ,
bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
From: Jeff Dunkle
Subject: Cont: GS style Guards for K Grips
At 12:07 AM 10/22/97 +0000, Thomas Hundt wrote:
>
>GS handguards are no doubt a very practical addition and one of
>the cheapest things you can get for your BMW. ($26 or so, I think.)
>
>Are these easy to mount and remove on a K handlebar, say?
>
>Do you have to remove the grips (PITA) to put 'em on, or do they
>clip on around the bar somehow?
There is a GS-style set of hand guards made just for K bikes. Show up as
a
part numbered accessory on the K bike fiches.
They require that you remove the mirrors to mount....that's all. The
mirror mount thread is the main support for them. Installation is 15
minutes tops.
I've had a set on my K75 for some time. Like em just fine.
Think they ran less than $28.
Jeff Dunkle
Monroeville, PA 412-374-1231
Boof #17, K-Whiner #41, SoD *8
President, Four Winds BMW Riders of Pittsburgh
Treasurer - BMW MOA
ABC, AMA, BMWBMW, MOA, RA, RBR
'81 R100, '86 K75T
From steve.aikensNoSpam@NoSpam3lefties.com Wed Oct 22 09:38:38 1997
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 07:38:42 -0600
From: Steve Aikens
Organization: PC Solutions, Inc.
To: Thomas Hundt
CC: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Subject: Re: BMW: [tech] GS handguards, EZ to put on/remove?
Thomas Hundt wrote:
>
> GS handguards are no doubt a very practical addition and one of
> the cheapest things you can get for your BMW. ($26 or so, I think.)
>
> Are these easy to mount and remove on a K handlebar, say?
On the R/RS, they simply mount using the mirror stalks. If you have
forward mounted mirrors (on the faring), if you have holes for the
stalks, you could probably use bolts.
> Do you have to remove the grips (PITA) to put 'em on, or do they
> clip on around the bar somehow?
No. Just remove the mirror stalks and replace.
> I'm asking because I'm sitting here reading about all this
> cold-weather stuff, thinking, "That might be a good thing to
> have on in the winter and in jungle expeditions, but they don't
> exactly fit the lines of the bike for the summer. Wonder if one
> can take 'em off easily."
The mounts can be left on the bike, although they aren't the most
attractive accessory, if you like and the handguards themselves can be
removed from the front. However, they go on and off so easy, I don't
think it's worth the effort to remove the screws and guards without
removing the mounts as well. It's about 5 minutes on, five minutes off.
--
I don't suffer from insanity.....I enjoy every minute of it!
Steve Aikens, Clovis, New Mexico
steve.aikensNoSpam@NoSpam3lefties.com
My BMW URL is http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/4323/
Don't drop by very often, it never changes.
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 12:53:31 -0500
From: peterkrNoSpam@NoSpamms.com (Peter Krynicki)
Subject: Re: BMW:PARTS:Source needed for nylon/plastic bolts.
James Balzrette, Jr. wrote:
>
> Well, I've finally got most of the bugs out of my 76 R90S (still needs
> some *fine* tuning of the carbs) but runs almost like it should, just
in
> time for the nice riding weather we're having here now (65-70 days,
40's
> at night). The problem is it will be getting colder soon and I need to
> replace some broken windshield bolts on a Windjammer I have mounted to
> the bike ( the S fairing was long gone when I got it) and I can't find
> anyone here who has the nylon (plastic?) screws that mount the
> windshield. Any source for these bolts would be appreciated as I *know*
> from previous experience that steel screws will crack the windshield.
>
> TIA
>
> Jim Balzrette
> Shreveport, La
> 76 R90S
Jim - did you find these yet?? Capitol Cycle has plastic rivets ( to
mount the windshield for an S or CS) for 0.75/each. Part number is
46 63 1 233 909.
They are at 1-800-642-5100. If they don't still have 'em let me know. I
think I still have a box of these at home somewhere.
Hth
Pjk
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 23:50:08 -0500
From: Brian Curry
Subject: Re: BMW: K1100 Fuel Management
At 07:48 AM 11/7/97 -0800, Stephen Syrotiak wrote:
>
>To those who sweat such things,
>
>How much fuel in a K1100LT tank (assuming level road) is useable before
>fuel starvation occurs? I've run the tank to the point where I've put
>4.8 gals in. How much closer to the 5.2 gal cap can I get B4 the line
>starts sucking air?
Depends partially on how full you fill it. Is the funnel still in? I
have
put 5.12 gallons into my tank which is rather similar to yours. Run it
far
down and then carry a small quantity with you, run it out, and get to a
station and find out.
>Aside from a larger tank, what are my options for increasing fuel
>capacity on this bike?
Fuel Cells. Talk to Reno BMW.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
| To infuse moral concepts into a political discussion is simply to |
| confuse the issue.... Morality is not involved in achieving policy. |
| - William Fulbright 1959 |
| |
| Brian Curry, 1990 Blue K75RTs both coasts, Chester Springs, PA, USA |
| SoD #23 |
| |
| KGN- Improving Lives Around The World |
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 12:23:38 -0500 (EST)
From: TMFBikerNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com
Subject: BMW: K100 Bar Clarification!
Hello All,
Scott's mail got me thinking and he is indeed correct I was temporarily
misled that the Euro K100 Heated Grip kit will NOT work on a K1100RS.
The
K100 handgrip design is different than the K11 and the two are not
compatible.
That said, the K100 Standard bar will fit the K1100 grips and bar-end
weights
and is predrilled for both heated grips and bar-end weights. It runs $59
new.
The real bummer in all of this is that the heated grip kit for the K11 is
more than the entire Euro K100 standard package - good for you 8-valve
K100
and K75 owners that want a low-cost way to heated grips and "C" bars :)
I stand corrected.
~~~~~~~~~ http://users.aol.com/esquireted/moto.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Ted Verrill - EsquireTedNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com -
TedVNoSpam@NoSpamFool.com - K1100RS (Zephyr)
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 07:16:13 -0800
From: Steve Hammatt
Subject: Re: BMW: Fabrication Material Supplier
Dr.Robert A. Harms wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of a company that will sell small ( UPS's-able)lengths
> of aluminum, brass and steel for fab purposes. Example:
> currently I need aluminum rod in 3/4 and 1" diameters but only several
> feet of each and can't even buy from local suppliers.
In Seattle there is a company called "Metal Shorts" that does this
type of business.
Metal Shorts
1248 6th Ave South
Seattle WA 98134
206-382-0305
Good Luck!
Steve
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 17:54:39 -0500
From: "David T. Buzynski"
Subject: BMW: Multivex mirrors
I've had a set on my '88 Wing since reading about them in MCN. If they
were available for my ST1100 and K100RS I'd have them in a minute.
THEY'RE GREAT!
They don't distort in the center and almost unnoticeably become convex
at each end (more on the outside). If I extend my arm out 90 degrees
from the bike I can see my hand in the mirror yet the view behind looks
normal. NO blind spots. Zip, zero zilch,nada!! They've become standard
equipment on INDY cars. Maybe if enough of us ask the manufacturer (one
individual!) he'll make 'em for Beemers. Can't say enough for the peace
of mind I get being able to REALLY see everything that's goin on around
me.
After my Stitch, my best accessory purchase!
Dave Buzynski
Scarborough, Maine
Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 14:02:21 -0600
From: corkreed
Subject: Re: BMW: Re: Right hand side stands
wcboydNoSpam@NoSpamtelapex.com wrote:
> Corky Reed had a right hand side stand on his GS years ago . Think he
> still
> does .
>
> Bill Boyd
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Duner Tor
> To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
> Date: Thursday, December 04, 1997 12:47 PM
> Subject: BMW: Right hand side stands
Yo!!!
He still does, except the same sidestand is on my R100R.
There is no problem with the airheads. Roger and his crew at the old
Motospezial BMW in Cochrane Alberta,took a piece of bar steel and welded
the old Brown sidestand onto it and moved it over the the right side.
They used the rear engine mounting bolts from a \5, you remember the
bolts went thru the footpegs and hence were lomger.
The problem that kept the old Brown sidestand from fitting on the left
of the later airheads was because the shift lever was moved and
interfered with the mounting of the stand.
I have been completely satisfied with mine and now it seems strange to
get on one leaning to the left :-))))
Now, on the K bikes with the engine as a stressed member, it is going to
take some engineering!!! Je n'ai ce pas!!!
Respectfully,
Corky
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 14:12:32 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Adams
Subject: Re: BMW: Aux Fuel Tank mounting
Rather than mounting to the saddle bags, I would get a police solo seat
which would allow access to frame points beneath the pillion area. Solid
mount the tank there. Are you fabricating the tank or buying one?
Geoff Adams, Arlington, TX tbcNoSpam@NoSpamdfw.net
Subject: BMW: Yet another bitchin' R1100RT accessory!
From: Diaz_JonNoSpam@NoSpammacmail1.cig.mot.com at ._datafork
Date: 12/15/97 9:41 AM
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 09:41:12 +0800 (U)
From: Diaz Jon
Subject: BMW: Yet another bitchin' R1100RT accessory!
To: BMW Mailing List
BMW has come out with a two-port power socket kit for the left-side of
the R1100RT. It replaces the single-port kit used on '96 RT's (deleted
on '97's) with a new mounting plate, extra socket, and appropriate wiring
harness. This circuit is fused at 15A, so it should easily handle a
couple
of vests and a set of heated gloves for a passenger.
Cost was about $55. Took about ten minutes to install, longer if you
don't
want to burn your fingers on the catalytic converter like I did. :)
Jon Diaz
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 20:50:38 EST
From: WARUSZEWSK
Subject: BMW: Re: K bike Krash bars
One of the first things that I planned on doing was removing those damn
ugly
crash bars. While washing the bike (wearing tennis shoes) I backed the
bike
out of the garage stepped onto fine gravel and in slow motion dropped the
bike
as I sit one it with my foot sliding out from under me.
I looked at the 500 lb love of my life lying there with her mirror popped
off.
In a fit of rage I picked it up so quickly I almost tossed it over onto
her
other side. As the bike was up right, I saw a few scratches on the crash
bars,
saddle bag and mirror. With fairing untouched, never again did I give any
thought to removing the crash bars. I may be an Idiot, but I am not an
idiot.
VIC WARUSZEWSKI MOA # 59993 85 K100RS
BMW TCD MOA # 1 http://pages.prodigy.com/bmwtcd
Motor City Beemers Team K-
Basa
SoD # 21 BOOF # 121 Village Idiots
#21
Broccoli: Breakfast of real champions
We'll have some high times, and live them low.
Get some fast food and eat it slow.
I'm hungry when I get up, and sleepy when I eat.
Only time I feel right, I got the road beneith my feet.
- The Fabulous Thunderbirds
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 10:12:27 -0500 (EST)
From: RKMorrowNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com
Subject: Re: BMW: Re: crash bars
>>In my
opinion they are not worth a pinch of shit, at the slightest knock
they come off and everything else touches down anyway, and then you
have to replace the rubber mounts
Subject: Re: BMW: Re: K bike Krash bars
WARUSZEWSK wrote:
> One of the first things that I planned on doing was removing those damn
ugly
> crash bars. While washing the bike (wearing tennis shoes) I backed the
bike
> out of the garage stepped onto fine gravel and in slow motion dropped
the bike
> as I sit one it with my foot sliding out from under me.
> I looked at the 500 lb love of my life lying there with her mirror
popped off.
> In a fit of rage I picked it up so quickly I almost tossed it over onto
her
> other side. As the bike was up right, I saw a few scratches on the
crash bars,
> saddle bag and mirror. With fairing untouched, never again did I give
any
> thought to removing the crash bars. I may be an Idiot, but I am not an
idiot.
>
> VIC WARUSZEWSKI MOA # 59993 85 K100RS
> BMW TCD MOA # 1 http://pages.prodigy.com/bmwtcd
> Motor City Beemers Team
K-Basa
> SoD # 21 BOOF # 121 Village
Idiots #21
> Broccoli: Breakfast of real champions
> We'll have some high times, and live them low.
> Get some fast food and eat it slow.
> I'm hungry when I get up, and sleepy when I eat.
> Only time I feel right, I got the road beneith my
feet.
> - The Fabulous
Thunderbirds
Vic, on my trip last summer the bike rolled forward off the kick stand in
front of
a motel (in front of a bunch of Harley guys). Since I have freeway pegs
on the
crash bars, the bike stopped on the left freeway peg and on the left
saddle bag.
The bag twisted off the mount. SWMBO did a 1 & 1/2 gainer into the
parking lot.
We got back to the bike, picked it up and discovered no damage of any
kind. The
freeway peg took most of the load and twisted around the crash bar.
Cheap fall
over protection..
- --
Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com
95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll"
K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet"
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 15:26:05 -0500
From: "Dendy, John"
Subject: BMW: R1100R- Luggage rack/Update on First Impressions
(longish)
Thanks to all who commented favorably on my previous R1100R write-up.
I just got my bike back from it's 600+ service, and now have my
Reynolds backrest and luggage rack installed. Several R11R owners
expressed an interest in this rack, so here goes:
The back rest and rack are chrome plated (black is also available),
which goes well with some of the other chrome parts on the bike.
However;
the style is a little dated. It would probably look more at home on an
airhead. This really doesn't bother me much. No, really it doesn't.
Well,
maybe just a "little". :))
My part time riding partner, full time spouse has pronounced the back
rest
as "comfy", and that was one of several critical success factors. She
also
thought it looked all right, so appearance is probably going to be very
subjective among R11R owners.
The luggage rack is quite substantial and seems large enough to serve
its
purpose (the second critical success factor). It is 11" wide and 10.5"
long (measured from the rear of the back rest uprights). Installation
took a while, and required the permanent removal of my rear seat grab
bar (bummer).
It doesn't affect the System Cases at all.
Cost is approx $200, which was the third critical success factor
(affordable).
I give the backrest and rack a grade of "B"
If anyone is interested, I also have some comments about "First
Impressions
after the initial service interval". If not, please press .
Smoothness: Originally graded an A. It is now smoother than it was
previously. New Grade? A+. One Prez wrote to tell me that it really
gets better and better with more miles... Wow. I can't wait!
Transmission: The transmission was graded a "C", because I thought it
was
clunky. The shop changed the transmission oil, and it now shifts a
little
better (less clunky). New grade? "B-"
Summary (overall) Grade B+
John Dendy
'98 R1100R
'77 Sporty
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 17:16:45 -0500
From: Brian Curry
Subject: BMW: K-Tech Warm Feet and Shins in the Winter
Staying warmer on a KRT in the winter
Sometime back David Norton popped up with the statement that if you
pulled
the baffles out of the fairing lowers, you would be warmer riding in
cooler
temps. This made sense. Why had I not thought of it....
Someone else said that BMW made fairing bottom extensions that would keep
the wind blast off your feet. This made sense and I thought I could make
my
own. Later Sam Lepore ordered a set and told me what they looked like.
Very similar to what I made but they extended lower. ( (They also cost
$65!!! Now compare that to the cost of making your own.) My next
version
will be larger that what is described here..
I tried this last year, (96/97) and by golly it works. In fact, when I
forgot to put the baffles back in and take the extensions off, I thought
I
was going to die when it got warm, from toasted shins and roasted
tootsies.
I did not reinstall them this year until it got cool. The difference in
warmth after installing them was very noticeable. WARMTH IS GOOD.
So how is this magic performed?
***Fairing Bottom Extensions***
For the fairing bottom extensions, I used a chunk of truck tire flap. I
got
it for free by asking at a local truck repair center.
At the bottom of the fairing, on each side, there is a 10mm headed bolt
with
a big flat washer that supports the fairing bottom. I used this as a
mounting point for the extensions on each side.
These are the original, tested, dimensions and are approximate. Remember
mine will be larger next time The design was created by cutting a piece
from a plastic file folder, holding it in place and seeing if it looked
right. So feel free to create your own design.
All of these descriptions are viewed from the rear of the bike.
The left extension, using ASCII art, had this approximate shape:
4 3/4"
_________________________
| |
| O (2 1/4") |
| (1" down) |
| |
| | 4 5/8"
| __|
| / =20
| | Exhaust pipe recess
| \ _=20
\ |
\ |
\_____________________|
2 1/4"
The top was 4 3/4" wide and the hole for the 10mm headed bolt was 2 1/4"
from the right side and 1" below the top edge.. ("Eyeballed" location.)
I
cut a recess so the exhaust header pipes would not hit the fairing
extension
and make a real stink. (Pewwww!!) At the same time, I tried to keep it
fairly close to the pipe to keep cooler air from getting to my foot. The
top to bottom dimension last year was 4 5/8", but will be longer next
year.
I rounded the bottom left corner so the flat surface ended about 2 1/4"
wide. (You can only do so much in ASCII art.)
The right extension, using ASCII art, had this approximate shape:
3 1/2"
___ _________________________
1" | |
___ | O (7/8" from left) |
/ (5/8" down) |
/ |
/ | 4 3/4"
/ |
/ |
/ |
/ |
/ /
/ / =20
/________________________/ =20
| |
Subject: Re: BMW: '99 Butt Prep
Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Reply-To: Jeff Simmonds
X-No-Archive: yes
X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3
X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/
X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s).
Gary,
FWIW, I have a 5 gal cell on the rack of my LT. I have to tell you it
affects my handling alot less than having my 7 year old son on the back..
(It is much better behaved and sits still, never leans the wrong way in
the
curves.. ) Seriously, the effct on handling isn't significant, and I am
not
one to dog it around the corners.. . besides, after a couple of hundred
miles, you move the weight down to the main tank anyways....
As for where to get it, Reno does do a very nice job of installing, etc.
if
you are going to have it done, I would recommend having it done there if
you can get there.
If you are just looking for components, there are other sources. It
really
depends on how much advice you want/need. If you know what you want ot
do,
Summit Racing has the Cells (RCI vs. the Fuel Safe that Reno uses), check
valves, fuel umps, etc. Add hoses, petcock, etc. and you have what you
need. Most of this stuff should also be available through your local
performance shop... If you want alot of advice, getting the stuff from
Jan
will make lots of help available too...
As for expecting 45-48 mpg from an RS, I hope I never got tht old and
slow
that I consistently can get that kind of mileage... ;-) You obviously
aren't there either.
Jeff
(happy when the Fuel Plus stays around 40E for a while... )
At 09:42 AM 3/17/98 -0500,
Harris_Gary/ny_technologyNoSpam@NoSpamexplorer.siny.com wrote:
>
>
>One thing that plagued me continuosly while riding the '97 Iron Butt
>was range...or, more accurately, lack thereof. Before the start, I was
>expecting to get 45-48 mpg from my K11RS. As it turned out, most
>likely because of the barn-door Aeroflow screen, extra weight, and
>maybe even the tiny PIAA 1000's, I was lucky to get 200 miles from one
>tank of gas. Stopping for gas every 2 - 2.5 hours is a great way to
>throw off your rythm. In the future, I want to stop when I *want* to,
>not when I have to. I don't want to have this problem again in 1999.
>I'm getting an auxilliary fuel cell.
>
>Since excellent handling is a priority of mine, I have decided to
>install the fuel cell in the passenger area. This position negates the
>the influence of the extra weight as much as possible (anybody
>dissagree?), sorta like carrying a light passenger.
>
>Since I'll soon have a Corbin seat, I will soon also have a extra seat
>pan. I'm thinking about sending the pan to Russell and have them build
>a Day-Long saddle for the driver only, and either cut off the passenger
>section or leave it bare.
>
>Which would be best:
>
>Cut off the passenger section and mount the fuel cell to the frame
>
>-or-
>
>Leave the passenger section bare and mount the fuel cell to the seat
>pan.
>
>My thinking is that if I have the passenger section in place, I will
>still have the tail-section covered/protected and will still be able to
>use the tail-section storage compartment. Also, after the IB is over,
>I can remove the saddle and fuel cell as one component, and re-install
>as one component as needed.
>
>Is the seat pan material strong enough to withstand the mounting of a
>fuel cell? If not, can I reinforce it with something?
>
>Is there anything I'm overlooking here?
>
>Is Reno BMW *the* place to get what I need?
>
>Does anyone in the north east have experience in fuel cell
>installations?
>
>
>
>Oh - Where can I get a Reynolds Rack and what should I expect to pay
>for one?
>
>
>TIA!
>
>
>Gary - NYC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Attachment Converted: "C:\Eudoramail\WINMAIL1.DAT"
>
>
=========================================================================
===
=====
Jeff Simmonds - Altadena, CA
'97 K1100LT AMA #538775
'87 K100RST IBA
'76 R90/6 IBMWR
'86 GL1200SEi ENA #3
simmondsNoSpam@NoSpamearthlink.net
From: EsquireTed
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 16:35:35 EDT
To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamlists.ibmwr.org
Cc: tkmhansenNoSpam@NoSpamearthlink.net
Subject: Re: BMW: Different bars for K100RS
X-Mailer: Casablanca - Windows sub 180
Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Reply-To: EsquireTed
X-No-Archive: yes
X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3
X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/
X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s).
Mark writes:
>Continuing my quest for a beemer, I rode a K100RS yesterday which I
>really enjoyed except the riding position is a bit forward for my back
>and wrists. Has anyone put different bars to provide a more upright
>riding position?
Mark,
Many people have made the "C" bar mod on the K75/K100 bikes. I made this
mod
on my K75S and discovered a whole new (*much* more comfortable long
distance!)
bike. I used the European K100 Standard bar (a "C" bar)/Heated Grip/Bar-
end
weight kit as it was much less than buying the pieces separately. The
price,
from Lex at Bob's BMW was around $155 and installation was a piece of
cake
once I realized that I was forgetting to install a small wiring pigtail.
All
the pieces came in one big Box and the only extra thing I needed was help
from
Lou "Louge" Conley in getting the wire-ends into the little plastic lock-
connectors. I have a tech piece on the IBMWR K-Tech page about
installing the
bar but did not update it for the heated grips (one of these days :))
>In a way I guess this is sort of motorcycle blasphemy since the bike was
>designed for that position but if I can make it more comfortable for me,
>I'd buy it.
Not at all, I really started to enjoy the bike much more after the new
bars -
I suppose if you have a 39" sleeve length you might be in a different
boat
though. For my 33" sleeves it really completed the bike for me. I am
sure
you will find that whatever bike you buy will demand some tweakes here
and
there to truly personalize it for your body size and comfort levels.
Good luck with it!
~~~~~~~~~ http://users.aol.com/esquireted/moto.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Ted Verrill - EsquireTedNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com -
TedVNoSpam@NoSpamFool.com - K1100RS (Zephyr)
Washington DC, USA - HOYA JD '94 - Rolling Broccoli Rider
IBMWR - BMWBMW - BMWMOA - BMWRA - GG#3 - SoD#7
BMWBMW Newsletter Editor, "Between The Spokes"
~(c)1998~~~~~~~~~ Visit http://www.bmwbmw.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 06:55:26 -0800
From: Mark Gensman
Organization: Business Resource Group, Inc.
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.02 [en]C-DIAL (Win95; U)
To: Steven Huber
Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Subject: Re: BMW: Disabling sidestand cutout on K11LT
Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com
Reply-To: Mark Gensman
X-No-Archive: yes
X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3
X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/
X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s).
Steven Huber wrote:
> Esteemed Prezzes:
>
> The sidestand cutout switch on my '93 K11LT is _really_ starting to
annoy
> me and I'd like to disable it. Is it a simple matter of pulling a wire
off
> the switch or is a 'patch' needed?
>
> TIA!
>
> Steve Huber '93 K11LT, '88 R100RX
> IBMWR, BMW MOA, BMW RA, IBMC, AMA, G.O.B. #17
> Madison, WI
> shuberNoSpam@NoSpamitis.com
> "He was a nice guy until he fell off the medication..."
On my 95 K, I simply installed a crimp connector between the two wires to
the
sidestand switch. Shorted the two wires and the bike thinks the stand is
always up (switch closed).
--
Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com
95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll"
K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet"