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									An unofficial SabMag collection of various things that I found
or, when I read it, I said "Hey, that's something I need to keep."

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little hard
to read, but if you're down to searching archives you're already
desperate and
I'm hoping you'll put up with it.

These are almost exclusively from the Sabmag list, but are in no
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Subject: Make your own windshield
From: Bob Peloquin <BPeloquin@HANSONDATA.COM>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 12:39:43 -0400

I recently made a replacement windshield for my Rifle Superbike fairing.
The one I bought was the 18 inch tinted one which proved to be too dark
to see through at night (I couldn't see me headlight beam on the ground
front of the bike).   I decided to make my own and here's what I did and
learned about it:


Poster-board of sufficient size to make a template of your windshield.

One (or more) sheets of Lucite Tuff glazing material of the appropriate
(I got 18 by 24 inch sheets of 1/8 inch thickness for about $7 US

Electric Jig-saw and fine plastic-cutting blade

Drill and bits

Scissors, Tape, Pencil or Felt-tip marker


Make a poster-board template by taping the poster-board to the INSIDE
of the original and tracing it out including the mounting holes (I found
that the plastic stretches on the outside of the curve and doesn't
on the inside so you must make the template from the inside of the

Now is the time to "adjust" the template to suit your needs (taller,
etc.). After cutting out the template, trace it on the paper covering of
Lucite, make any changes with a ruler etc. and cut it out with an
jigsaw using a fine plastic blade.

Sand the edges to a slightly rounded profile either by hand or with some
sort of power tool (I used my Dremel and a sanding drum bit).   Sand the
top edge tilted toward the outside so you won't be looking through a

Now for the tough part:

The first time I tried this I had a great deal of trouble... Most
ovens are too small to hold an 18 X 20 or so piece of clear plastic,
but if you can find a big one it might work (or if your plastic is
smaller than mine). The "gotcha's" I found (from scraps and from
my first try) are as follows:

Don't leave the paper on the plastic sheet... It causes the surface to
become rippled and distorted.

Don't put the plastic directly on the metal cookie sheet... It causes
Don't be surprised if the once-clear plastic turns milky-white... It
will turn back when cooled if you don't overheat it.

Always check your temperature and time in the oven on scrap pieces...
Oven temps vary greatly.

Before heating your plastic:

Fill the bathtub with cold water (for cooling the plastic)

Pre-heat the oven to approximately 200-225 F. (93-107 C.)

Remove the paper from both sides of the windshield and a couple
of the scraps from cutting it out (you'll use the scraps as test pieces).

Place them on a room-temperature cookie sheet turned upside-down
and covered with a clean, cotton cloth.

Place the cookie sheet on the center rack in your pre-heated oven (I
used an electric oven).

After a couple of minutes, take one of the scraps out (with oven mitts)
and try bending it to the contour of your fairing... If it's too hard to
put it back for a couple more minutes. Don't overheat it as it will be
impossible to "un-stretch" a distorted piece that bent too far or at
angles and curves because it was too soft (from my own experience).

Repeat the tests above until you can bend the scraps around the curve
you need with some resistance. Immediately remove the windshield,
bend it to the desired shape and dunk it in the bathtub to "freeze" it.

If all goes well, you'll only need to drill the mounting holes (using the
template on the inside again) and mount your new windshield.


Another way I've heard about to heat Lucite...

Instead of using an oven, use a large pan (institutional sized brownie
pan would work) filled with boiling water (just under 212 F. or
100 C for you metric individuals). This should give even better
results, but I haven't tried it yet.


Subject: Cam timing was Re:wrench
From: ??michael <juriga@IDT.NET>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 21:09:39 +0000
curtis hintze wrote:

>            another wrench tip regarding cams.....timing cams can be
> tricky.    i just did a set on richards engine. the factory method is
> confusing.    here's my way. set timing mark on t-1-3. set all cams in
> place with all marks up and all index lineseven with cyl. head
> surface.    i do rear head first, then front head. i may roll engine
> over some,    but i return to t-1-3.   when done, at t-1-3, all cam
> marks are either up or either all down, and all index marks are
> parallel to cyl. head surface(at t-1-3). so, you say, i may be set up
> 180 degrees out, right? after all, the t-1-3 mark comes up twice, at
> top of exhaust stroke, and at top of compression stroke. so i could be
> off 180 degrees in relation to ignition firing, right??    here is where
> this one piece of obscure knowledge pays off......the ignition fires on
> compression stroke and on the exhaust stroke. so you cannot set cam
> timing out 180 degrees. it fires at both points. see clymers manual
> timing cams to verify.

I had an interesting development when I did my cams. Around came the time
to do the cam timing. There are three sets of index marks on each
A set of index dimples and a set of index lines. I rememebered that the
index "lines" where both supposed to align with the flat surface of tops
of their respective heads at a certain timing mark (according to curtis t

When I did the individual head cam timing I aligned by index lndex for
heads. The final test of all index lines simultaneously aligned with the
head could not be acheived. Re-reading the manual showed that the front
cylinders are supposed to align with "dots" @ t-2-4 and the rear
align with "lines" @ t-1-3. All the lines should align @ t-1-3 with the
cylinder heads.

I hope this clears up some of the confusion I had.


Subject: Carb bowl gaskets
From: ??michael <juriga@IDT.NET>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 10:11:11 -0500

Hey all,

While helping Grethe with her carb rebuild, I swore up and down that you
not buy float bowl gaskets seperately from the carb rebuild kit.

For all VF's EXCEPT the v30 or 500F I've been proven wrong. Check out:
This is the site for Cycle Re-cycle in Indianapolis. Any comments on them
Mr. Stewart, our Indy ex-patriot?


Subject: Fuel Tank repair - POR-15 report
From: ??michael <juriga@IDT.NET>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 14:31:43 -0500

Hey all,

Update on my rescued Interceptor. I just finished prepping the tank. I
use crappy Kream. Read on.

The Interceptor I've rescued had sat outside with 1/3 a tank of gas for
a year and a half. The internals were definitely rusty though still tight
leaks. I needed to do something about the internals but didn't want to
Kream (because it is not a permanent fix and the problems it can cause
when it
decides to go are *NOT* fun.) My work with restoring my 1970 Chevelle SS
brought me in touch with a company called Restomotive who produce a
called POR-15. This stuff is amazing. All the resto rags rave and car
Internet sites are a-buzz about it. When used properly, it stops rust
It forms a super hard surface that is very hard to scratch or chip. Even
Evil Twin Joey (the ToeCutter) Thorne, who works on boats, knew about
and had favorable things to say about it. If a rust repair product can
properly in a Marine/Saltwater environment than it has GOT to be good.
ago, I found a tank prep product kit in their catalog. I have been very
with other products of theirs, so I have been waiting for an opportunity
try this one. Hey, they even show a V65 Sabre's tank in the catalog. I
that this is a sign.

The kit contains: Marine=Clean (a water based, alkaline
supposedly environmentally friendly but I wouldn't let it sit on your
skin for
very long), Metal Ready (a mildly acidic solution which completely turns
into a neutral Zinc Phosphate. Much nicer to work with than the highly
hydrochloric solution in the Kream kit. Also, Metal Ready can be saved
reused.), Tank Sealer (which reminds me of POR-15 Silver), a piece of
and a disposable brush (to repair pin holes and leaking seams, which I
did not
need to use, so I cannot vouch for.) A heavy duty version of the kit also
a step that will completely remove a previous tank lining like Kream.

Use of the kit is not as quick as using Kream. YOU MUST TAKE YOUR TIME!
If you
follow the directions given to you by POR-15 and the suggestions I've
here you should be okay.

Cleaning the tank:
Seal all openings and vent tubes on the tank. Duct tape is suggested, but
kept coming off of the two large openings on my tank due to LOTs of
water. I
improvised by slipping the gas cap into a surgical glove and installing
it the
way it would normally go to seal the top hole. luckily had a large cork
size of the fuel gauge sending unit hole to seal that as well. Using the
Marine=Clean, mix one part cleaner and one part boiling water. Pour into
and then seal it tight. I aggitated the solution in the tank by gently
it back and forth. Rock and roll. Rock and roll. Make sure the cleaner
everywhere. The cleaner needs to be in the tank for at least 24 hours,
for heavily varnished or dirty interiors. I would aggitate for about 20
minutes, and then let it sit for an hour or two. Then I'd aggitate some
and let it sit again, but in a different position than before. After 24+
I dumped the cleaner out and flushed liberally with water. I used my
as I don't have good access to an open area w/ a hose. Your wives or SO
kill you for this as it's messy, but not damaging. Flush it well. You
want to
remove as much alkaline solution as possible for the next step, which is
more acidic.

Rust destruction/ "etching":
When I say etching I don't mean like the extremely harsh Kream method.
Ready is techincally acidic, but pretty mild in comparison to the Kream
(Phosphoric or Hydrochloric Acid?) Metal Ready's main job is to CONVERT
to a neutral Zinc Phosphate. Any etching properties are pretty minor.
Ready takes about 30 minutes to work for a tank in the condition of mine.
Heavy rust will take longer. Again I'd aggitate the tank/solution in a
rocking motion. Turning and rocking and rolling and turning. Watch a
that you know by heart when you do this. I watched Mad Max again. When
tank is done, remember that you can reuse Metal Ready, so I syphoned it
out of
the tank. Again, flush liberally with water. You should see black flakes
particulate now instead of rust colored. That is the zinc phosphate
coverted rust.

********THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP*********
Okay, you're pretty excited now that the rust is gone. The job is going
and you want to keep the momentum going. Before you go pouring the
into the tank STOP! The tank **MUST** be absolutely bone dry. POR-15
with water. If a single drop of water (or sweat) drops into your pint can
POR-15 while you are working THE WHOLE FREAKING CAN IS WASTED!
This tank sealant is the same.

After the flushing out from the Metal Ready step I again syphoned out as
of the water still trapped in the tank as I possible could. Letting the
sit in the sun won't dry it. Letting it sit for 10 weeks won't dry it.
need to introduce warm moving air to dry the internals. I removed all the
and stuff sealing the various holes on the tank. I set the tank up with a
dryer set on low w/ heat blowing into the main hole. I left it blowing
air into the tank for around 4 hours. The next day I let it blow warm air
half hour intervals about 3 or 4 times. Then, when I was ready to seal
tank, I let it blow cool air for an additional 2 hours. I may have
the air thing, but I wanted to take no chances. I wanted this done right.
Sealing the tank:
After the hairdryer this step seems anti-climatic. I resealed the
this time merely with duct tape. I poured the contents of the sealant can
the tank. It is the consitency of paint with a heavy fumes. DO NOT GET
STUFF ON ANYTHING ELSE. If you do wipe it off IMMEDIATELY. It won't
come off once dry. I'm serious. Wear gloves, because you'll be wearing a
weeks if you don't. Ordinary paint thinners do not work with it. It can
be thinned
with the POR-15 specific thinner (not availible in this kit as there is
no need for
it.) Aggitate the tank again in slow motions allowing time for the POR-15
coat the interior. I took about 45 minutes to be sure. On my tank there
was no
easy way to get the excess POR-15 out due to a collar around the interior
the main fillng hole. I used a turkey baister to remove the excess. I
blew compressed air into any small diameter tubes/holes to be sure that I
don't develop a restriction or clog due to a cured POR-15 blockage. I set
tank aside to dry/cure. A well ventilated area is a must for this. I
an exhaust fan in my bathroom window and let the tank sit in there for
night while the most fumes were present. I also let the tank sit upside
so that any excess POR-15 that I couldn't remove would puddle in the air
pocket that is always present, even in a full tank of gas so my fuel
wouldn't be effected. If you have leaks at the seams of your tank, you
want to consider letting the POR-15 cure so that it puddles into these
sealing them forever. The tank is fully cured and ready for gas after 4
Mine is completed now with a ROCKING coating ready to go.

So that is how it went. It is a time consuming process. It is not *DOWN
DIRTY* quick and easy. but guaranteed, if you do it right you'll never
have to
do it again. While not being difficult it is also not "simple". You do
need to
take your time and be careful, especially to fully dry the tank with warm
moving air. You *CANNOT* be in a rush. Leave about a week of off and on
to complete the task. But the results are worth it. If this
coating/finish is
anything like the other POR-15 products I've used that nothing short of
A-Bomb will effect it. This is the only permanent fix I know of short of
buying a new tank. At the price of $29.95 and a week's worth of time I'd
it is worth it.

here's the info:     (full online catalog.)

RestoMotive Laboratories
Division of Por-15, Incorporated
P.O. Box 1235
Morristown, New Jersey 07962-1235

TOLL-FREE: 1-800-457-6715
In NJ: 973-887-1999
Fax: 973-887-8007



Subject: Re: Honda by Harley?
From: ??michael <juriga@IDT.NET>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 22:25:44 +0000

Anthony Osborne wrote:
> Anyone got more concise info on this subject??

Check you VIN plate. There are three characters at the beginnig of the
VIN number that are printed, not stamped.

JH2   =   built in Japan.
IHF   =   built in Marysville, OH
YC1   =   built in Belgium
92C   =   built in Brazil
3HI   =   built in Mexico
VTM   =   built in Spain
ZDC   =   built in Italy
JH3   =   ATVs built in Japan
478   =   ATVs built in Marysville, OH

I got this info from Bob P on the VFR list.

For the record. My V30 and Interceptor have JH2. My V65 has IHF.


Subject: dipstick length data
From: Dave Miranda <The6andVio@AOL.COM>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 16:45:08 -0400

Concerning V65 dipstick length, here's some data:

My `84 V65 Sabre (engine: SC17E-2003442) has a dipstick which measures
152 mm
from the underside of the handle (flat portion that mates with the engine
case) to the "full" mark.

My `85 V65 Magna (engine: SC12E-2207483) dipstick measures 157 mm in the

This is an accurately measured 5 mm (about 3/16") difference between the
sticks. A very small difference, but indeed an intentional difference.
doubt that this is a manufacturing tolerance error.)

John Van Valkenburgh reports a length of 158 mm on his `84 V65 Magna...
Fowler reports a length of 157 mm on his `86 V65 Magna... both consistant
with the data from my `85 Magna.

Anyone else out there wanna do some measuring? Let's get a few V65 Sabre
stick measurements. Let's see who's got the biggest... ha ha. (remember
measure from the underside of the handle to the "full" mark)

For those with V45s who are interested, Jack Hunt reported stick
of 147 mm to the "full" mark on both his V45s.

I will soon try to compare the engine angles of both the V65 Magna and

Though this dipstick study may be trivial, it would be nice to come to a

-Dipstick Dave         


Subject: Re: Carb cleaning & such
From: Dave Alexander <Dave_Alexander@NOTES.SEAGATE.COM>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 16:12:15 -0400

>Just lay the part on top of it, scribe the outside, and cut out. Then,
>measure the thickness of the sealing area (the width of the gasket), and
>cut out the inside. Then mark and cut out the holes and you have your
>gasket. For something like our carbs, where you will have several
>it would probably be worth using tracing paper to make a pattern.

Here's an old gasket making trick taught to me by an old wrench...

Take the part you   need, and lay the mating surface down on the gasket
material.   Using   a block of wood or something to cushion it, give the
part a
good smack with a   hammer.   The part will leave an impression in the
material, showing   you just where to cut and put your holes for a perfect

- Dave


Subject: Re: Carb cleaning & such
From: Gustavo Marchevsky <>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 15:35:04 -0700

Mike Stewart wrote:
> On Mon, 29 Sep 1997 17:17:06 +0100 Ron Butterfield
> <ronb@NETPATH.NET> wrote:
> > Gustavo Marchevsky <> mentioned proper o-rings
> >from K
> > & L. Does anyone have part numbers / phone number for them?
> You might check the FAQ. I'm not sure if it got in there or not. If
> not, it should make the next revision.
I have the info on K&L but not the part number of the bowl gaskets handy.
Anyway, K&L is in Santa Clara CA and the number is 1-800-727-6767
Fax (408) 727-4842

They DO NOT sell to the public directly, but is easy to buy if you have
a resellers number...??! Min order 100$

Hope this helps.



Subject: save this or die, bwuhuhahahahahahahaha
From: Jude Federspiel <jfed@MIT.EDU>
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 07:30:15 EDT

Hey everybody,

things getting a little crazy around here. Big picture posts?
Big Long What-Should-I-Do_With-My-Computer posts? good lawdy!     that's
not what sabmag is for. Also, a lot of request for unsubscriptions,
commands sent to the poor overworked (underpaid) list admins instead of
hardy, overpaid, underworked, and tireless automatic stinkin LISTSERVER,
make me think it is time to resend the Official Shiny Happy Sabmag
File. It has a few changes in it since last you read (even if you just
subscribed today), so please read. Also, anyone caught with their pants
(oops, I mean caught deleting this file and then breaking its edicts with
impunity) will be flamed mercilessly, mocked incessantly, and discgraced
generations to come. So grab a coke and a smile and put them readin
specs on,
we're going for a ryde!!

Oh, wait, before our ryde, I changed the list definition on three
a) Mike Stewart is now a third co-list-admin (he calls himself the dirty
changer or something like that)
b) files (binaries) are no longer allowed, the computer will summarily
reject them
c) REPRO is now set as a default option so people automatically get their
posts bounced back to them. (thus no mention of it in the welcome file)

                  (file last revised 10.3.97)

You have been added to _THE_ list for Honda V4 Sabres and Magnas,


I am your list founder and one of three list administrators, Jude
The other two are Phil Ross ( and Mike Stewart

This is a customized welcome file giving you a few simple but critical
instructions on how to avoid being flamed to a crispy crunchy char of
carbon by the infamous, loving sabmag peanut gallery.

This file does the following:

           + describe the list
           + show you how to send commands to the list server
           + describe the most common commands, like:
                   + unsubscribe from the list
                   + subscribe to the list
                   + change your address on the list
                + get a digest only (versus ~100 posts per business day)
        + show you how to post to the list
        + show you how to flame the listadmins or get help in order to do
                anything else (I don't know half this stuff myself)

Therefore you should save this file because no one likes to see posts
saying "Hey can you please unsubscribe me???" sent out to the entire
If you read and save this file we can keep you from becoming the target
the admiration, adoration, worship and praise of the collective sabmag.
prevention is what we in sabmag land like to call a Good Thing (R).

** First, the purpose of the list:
The purpose of the list will be to discuss the following as applicable to
Honda Sabres and Magnas:

        +   repairs
        +   modifications
        +   anecdotes/horror stories/warnings
        +   requests for info or expertise

The better we restrict traffic to that simple summary, the happier we
all be. Chitchat and banter is bound to happen, and the line between
what is
acceptable and what is not is both invisible and at the whim of the
so best to err on the side of caution. Don't send crap just because
"well gee
everybody else especially that guy in Ohio seems to."

** Second, to send commands to the list server:

        i) send email addressed to:
        ii) no subject line necessary
        iii) the body of the message is your command.
        iv) all commands besides subscribe MUST be sent from your

** Third, common commands:


        i) to unsubscribe from sabmag:   signoff sabmag
                    Simple, isn't it? Almost too simple. (obviously you
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           ii) to subscribe yourself:       subscribe sabmag Firstname

                    (if you neglect the name, or put in less than two words,
                    it will not like you, nor will it subscribe you, and your
                    family name will be disgraced for generations to come.
                    Computers of the 90's are _sensitive_)

           iii) to change your subscribed account:    send command i) above
                    the original account), then send command ii) above from
                    new account.

           iv)   to set your subscription to digest mode:
                    set sabmag DIGEST

           v)    to turn off digest mode and return to normal mail:
                    set sabmag NODIGEST

        TO WHICH THEY REFER. In other words, if you have two email
        and you would like to subscribe, or set DIGEST, or unsubscribe
        one of them, you must email these commands from that acount.

** Fourth, to post to the list,

           send email to

** Fifth, to flame the listadmin (or ask "how do I do XYZ for the list
        while I'm on vacation?" or any other question not covered in this

           send email to:
 ,, or

           Any one of us (or all three) is likely to be off gallavanting on
           trusty steeds breaking world records for stamina (Mike), skill
           inclement weather/snowstorm rydes (Jude), or all three (Mike),
and not
           return your email or offer assistance for weeks on end.
           In that case...

           For further questions, send the commands
                  info refcard
                  info genintro

        to the listserver; it will respond with some general help files
        can read.

Thanks for your cooperation, and here's to success, fun, and safe riding

Jude Federspiel


Subject: Tire repair kits reviewed
From: Erik Kauppi <ekauppi@CORSA-INST.COM>
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 08:27:44 -0400

Having recently had a flat, I've had an opportunity to examine the
subject of tire repairs. 8-(    Some of you may recall that I posted
some questions about this subject this spring before SME1.9.

If you're impatient, skip to the Suggestions at the end of this post.

This flat (my first) occured on the freeway, 70+ MPH, 2-up,
in the rain. Rear tire. It took maybe 20 seconds or less from
the moment I became aware of a problem until the tire was absolutely
flat and absolutely un-rideable. I hear that's pretty typical.
Fortunately, I kept it rightside-up and was stopped on the shoulder
by then. The first indication of trouble was a distinct weave. It
got worse fast, and the trip to the shoulder was pretty exciting.

Lesson 1:   Flats happen fast.    Get your a$$ off the road, NOW.

We couldn't find the hole, in the rain and dark, using a flashlight.
No protruding nail or anything easy like that. I later found the
hole by inflating the tire and finding the hiss. It wasn't at
all obvious, buried in a recess of the tread pattern. It turns out
we (Krysta and I) could have found the hole and repaired it by the
side of the road, but we took the easy way out and used her
cell phone instead.

It does occur to me that folks with a CO2 inflater might not be able
to inflate the tire and listen for the hiss, and still inflate after
the repairs. That might be lesson #2.

There was a rest area 1 mile ahead. I attempted to ride the bike
with the flat, at a walking pace on the shoulder. That didn't
work very well, and was way too scarey. Plus, a heavy bike with
a flat tire is almost impossible to push. Lesson #3, I'm not
going to try that again. Get it to the nearest safe place and
stop. Accent on "nearest", like 20 feet.
Thanks to Troy's generous rescue, compete with rear wheel from
his V65 Sabre, we were all home safe fairly soon. Now having
an otherwise useless tire, I thought this was the perfect
opportunity to try out my tire patch kits. In the comfort
of my warm dry well-lit garage, after a good night's sleep.

After the discussions this spring, I carry on the bike a "tubeless
tire plug kit" with inflator hose that attaches to a spark plug
hole. I've tried the inflator and it works pretty well. The
air that goes in the tire does not smell of gasoline, there is
some kind of magic valve that seems to use cylinder compression
to pump outside air into the tire. This kit is #28-226 in the
Dennis Kirk catalog, $18.88 (DK is 1-800-328-9280)

The kit comes with gooey rubber rope type tire plugs and
installation tool. I followed the instructions and it worked,
at least it fixed the leak. I didn't ride on the repaired tire.
Everyone says that these plugs are only a temporary fix to get
you home at low speed. The worry is that the constant flexing
of the tire may cut the plug or cause it to work out of the
tire. Lesson #4, this plug kit works, at least temporarily.

Long ago I discussed tubeless tire repairs with Harry The
Wheel Man. Harry was a retired engineer from Ford, (where I
worked at the time), a rider, and he ran a motorcycle tire
and wheel business for many years. He was very experienced
at bike tires, wheels, and balancing, and we had several long
conversations. I trust his opinions.

Harry said that there is one, and only one, plug system that
makes a safe permanent repair in a bike tire. He showed it
to me and explained how it works. The key difference is that the
plug is shaped like a mushroom or a nail with a head. The large
head of the plug goes on the *inside* of the tire. Air pressure
holds the head of the plug against the inside of the tire, so
even if the stem of the plug is cut the head still holds air and
can't be forced out of the hole. The really neat thing is that
there's a tool that installs this plug from the *outside* of
the tire, while it's on the wheel.

This kit is now available from Dennis Kirk. Their # 28-472, $38.99
with 50 plugs but no inflator. I got one. The only problem is
that the tool is a little big and heavy, so I didn't make it part
of my permanent packing plan. Think I will next time. It all
fits in a pouch about 9x5x2 inches.

The directions say that the process is a little tricky, and you
might want to practice first. So, having a junk tire on hand,
I did just that. First I tried to pound a big nail into the
tire. Ha! Makes me marvel at the forces involved when we're
rolling down the highway. I couldn't get that nail into the
tire no way, even with a really big hammer. So I got a drill
and a 3/16 bit, and presto, I had a flat tire again.
It took a little while to figure out the tool and experiment
with it. But now that I've done it, I'm confident I could use
this system to repair a tire by the roadside with no problem.
Like the other kit, the tire could be immediately inflated and
did not leak. Again, I did not road test the repair. I would
have, except the tire also had the cheapie plug in it, and
there was a new tire waiting for me at the shop. The old one
was 3/4 worn out anyway.

- If you go on trips of any length, carry an inflator and a patch
  kit. Or a cell phone and a membership in towing club? And a
- Get the spark-plug-hole type inflator. It works great as long
  as you have a multi-cylinder bike, and can inflate as many
  tires as many times as you might need.
- I'm going to carry the good patch kit with the mushroom type
  plugs, so I'm not afraid to ride the rest of the trip after a
  repair. And so I don't ruin a good tire with a bad repair.
  If the tire's not nearly worn out I'll probably just trust
  the patch until the tire is dead. YMMV, and I notice that the
  instructions with the good plug kit say that the plug is a
  permanent repair for 4-wheel vehicles but not for 2-wheelers.
  I suspect the lawyers had something to do with that. But what
  you do is your decision, not mine.

I'd be interested to hear other's experiences with flat tires
on the bike. Any stories?

Erik Kauppi


Subject: Rogues
From: Zachary Volpicelli <crashman@POBOX.COM>
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 13:23:21 -0400

Just for general information
in RE: to Rogues Gallery

here at my office we have a nice speedy ISDN line so if you want to
larger unedited image files to emails, and send 'em my way that would be
problem. In fact almost preferable.

If you want to mail me actual photos (include an SASE) I can scan 'em and
send 'em back to you lickety split. I can then even send you the scanned
raw image for you to do whatever you like with.

you can mail hard copy to
Zachary Volpicelli
211 Wachusett St
Boston MA


attach them to emails
and send them to either of the following




Subject: Re: Arend in Europe or FAQ info
From: Kenneth Thompson <KenTmpsnmc@AOL.COM>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 02:42:48 -0400

In a message dated 97-10-24 00:05:18 EDT, you write:

<< There is a small circuit board inside the instrument panel.
 It is about 2 inches by 2 inches [ 5cm by 5 cm ] in size.
 There are 4 wires going to that circuit board with the following
         Yellow / Blue        Goes to CLOCK SET Button
         Yellow / Red         Goes to CLOCK SET Button
         Yellow / Green      Goes to CLOCK SET Button
         Green / Black        GROUND Wire
 Note: The CLOCK SET BUTTON is located on the panel between the
handlebars. Also have Check; Lamp Reset; and Trip Reset nearby.

 There are two others wires associated with the CLOCK circuit. They are
 located in the plastic housing near the Clutch and choke actuator. The
 has a feature called Elapsed Time Clock. It can be used for timing how
 it takes to get from point A to point B. For example: from mile marker
1 to mile
 marker 2. A switch at this housing controls whether you are in CLOCK
 Elapsed Time Mode.
 This select-switch has 3 wires going to it:
Green                GROUND
Red / Blue        Goes to MAIN circuit board in Instrument Cluster
Yellow / Blue    Goes to MAIN circuit board in Instrument Cluster

 I have a VF750S UK [ united kingdom ] Model , Colorized Wiring
 Schematic.   It is hard to decipher the Power wires that you need
 There appear to be a few that go into the instrument cluster and the
 related CLOCK circuit board.
       Black / Brown     appears to be a power wire as it comes from the
 fuse box
       Yellow / Red       appears to be a power wire
       Red / Blue           appears to be a power wire
       Yellow / Black     appears to be a power wire
       Red                       is a power wire coming from the main
 30A fuse

 EXAMPLES:    Black / Brown is a Black wire with a brown stripe
                          Yellow / Red is a Yellow wire with a red
                           Red   /   Yellow   is a Red wire with a yellow

 BEFORE going into the Instrument Cluster again; you may want to check
 the wiring in the small electrical panel between the handlebars. Check
the wiring
 for the CLOCK SET switch for good connections.
 Next check the wiring in the wiring-box that is located on the left
 handlebar. Open it up and check the wiring for the CLOCK and ELAPSED
TIME toggling
 switch.    Then go into the instrument panel for a check of those wires.
I think
 that the Black / Brown wire might prove out to be the power wire that
feeds the
 clock.    The Black / Brown wire feeds power to the TACH; FUEL & TEMP
 NEUTRAL LIGHT and SPEEDOMETER as well as the TRIP CLOCK circuit.
 From what I can decipher; any color code with GREEN in it appears to be
 a return path or GROUNDING wire........     It may well be that your
Clock Instrument is
toast.......... if power is getting to it and its' ground wire is
okay...... then it simply doesn't work

If true...this should be archived in the FAQ. (editor's note: Here ya

Ken T. from Ca.


Subject: Interactive Motorcyclist
From: Phil Ross <>
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 14:21:57 -0500

>From a tip on the LDRider list from author Ron Ayres, check out:

and enjoy. Check out the rest of the site too. This is the best
motojournalism I've yet seen online.


Subject: Re: Warm
From: Michael Walt <mwalt@NMU.EDU>
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 09:53:04 -0500

>The woman's article is already on a web page someplace. I've got it
>bookmarked . . . on my machine that's still in Indy. An Alta Vista
>search should find. Search on "make your own electric clothing", I


Subject: MCN Website
From: Michael Hampton <mhampton@FASTLANE.NET>
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 1997 14:50:54 -0600

Don't know if anyone else has spotted this yet or not, but Motorcycle
Consumer News now has it's web page up and running. It's at

It has a used bike price guide on-line which you
may find entertaining. I mean...I know my bike is worth that much, but
will I get to pay that for is IF I were going to sell it.


Subject: wrench
From: curtis hintze <>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 17:45:18 -0500

a warning about head bolts on the v65. i assume all sabmag same.. the
outer 8 head bolts are not in an oil bath. they are in a blind pocket
hole. after 12 years or more, i have had mixed results when i go to
pull heads. i have had 5 of them come out stripped out of 6 engines in
last 2 years. they come out real hard, and the threads are loaded with
aluminum. there is no way to presoak with wd40 or other similar

  so a suggestion....if you run across a stiff bolt, stop, drill thru
head of bolt to allow penetrant to soak the threads for a day or
two.     an even better way may be to drill all 8 bolts as a matter of
course a month before disassembly. soak, etc. use new bolts.

           another wrench tip regarding cams.....timing cams can be
tricky.    i just did a set on richards engine. the factory method is
confusing.    here's my way. set timing mark on t-1-3. set all cams in
place with all marks up and all index lineseven with cyl. head
surface.   i do rear head first, then front head. i may roll engine
over some,   but i return to t-1-3.   when done, at t-1-3, all cam
marks are either up or either all down, and all index marks are
parallel to cyl. head surface(at t-1-3). so, you say, i may be set up
180 degrees out, right? after all, the t-1-3 mark comes up twice, at
top of exhaust stroke, and at top of compression stroke. so i could be
off 180 degrees in relation to ignition firing, right??   here is where
this one piece of obscure knowledge pays off......the ignition fires on
compression stroke and on the exhaust stroke. so you cannot set cam
timing out 180 degrees. it fires at both points. see clymers manual on
timing cams to verify.

             i guess i'll know tomorrow when we fire up richard's
bike.           stay warm, curtis


(found on )

If you're looking for OEM colors, this may be worth a try.   Then
again, maybe not. I don't know anything about this guy.

In, wrote:

>If anyone is interested I have a couple hundred bottles of NOS Honda
Touch Up
>Paint. Most of them are no longer available from Honda. Most are from
>70's and 80's with a few from the 90's.
>If interested E-Mail me the color code of your bike. If you can't find
>color code let me know what the year, model, and primary color is. I
have a
>refrence list going back to the early 60's. If I have the color your
>for and the bee-bee inside still rattles it can be yours for a very low
>I don't really want to throw it out, as it has been in my basement so
long it
>seems like part of the family.


(From Carr Strong)

Uh oh.....
Okay, it was the 70's. I was just out of college with my first big bike
Wing). The bike needed a fairing. Back then, it seemed cool. Now it
like bait. But I'm not proud, I can handle abuse. Sooo.... Wanna see
another Jacwal Superwedge? Check this out from my web page:

Wish I still had it to put on one of my Magnas.
Just kidding! ;) Really. I promise never to do it again.
(....running for cover!)

Carr Strong


(from How Great Thou Art)

At 08:26 PM 4/2/98 -0800, JEDWARDS wrote:
>Can someone tell me whether my voltage regulator MUST be insulated from
>frame (ie NOT GROUNDED). I know it comes insulated but is it necessary
>can I mount it grounded(ie with bolts through the metal mounting holes
>to a bracket on the frame)? I can't tell from the wiring diagrams in
>Clymer manual, except on page 409 of the manual there is no direct
>I'm asking after having done it( I know, asking for advice after the
fact is
>a flamable offense) and I get a battery warning light which comes on
when I
>start up but it goes off again after a few minutes.

Since I'm the one who moved this regulator (from under the seat to below
the right side cover, into the moving air for cooling), I should help
into this.

Checking with an ohmmeter showed no continuity between any wire and the
heat sink. OTOH, an SCR or similar semiconductor would show the same

Someone else on this list moved their regulator for the same reason to
same place (that's where I got the idea), but I have no idea who. Please
speak up: did you insulate the regulator heatsink from ground, or just
it to the new bracket?

>Did anyones else see the recent ad for a credit union on a Seattle TV
>station which shows a Harley(I think?) rider who cannot get his bike
>as his buddies ride off . Afer numerous kicks, he has to resort to
>borrowing a dime from an elderly lady in order to make a call for help
>the pay phone. Funny stuff - as long as it doesn't happen to a SAB MAG.
Believe everything you see on TV? Yup. At least this time.
Tee hee :-)



(from Bob Peloquin)

Dan... VASCAR works quite easily from aircraft. I ought to know, I've
been ticketed this way once and used to be a private pilot so I know how
easy cars are to see from altitude (and how hard it is to spot a small
plane from a moving car). The plane (usually a high-wing) flies a slow
counter-clockwise oval of about 2-4 miles length and stays about 1500
feet above the road and maybe 1000 - 1500 off to the right so the
observer can see the cars easily The pilot usually sits in the right
seat (not the usual place, so they may both be pilots) and keeps the
plane in your blind-spot, hidden by the roof of your car. The cars pass
a contrasting mark or under a bridge overpass and travel a pre-measured
distance down the road to another mark, bridge, or other easily spotted
landmark. The observer judges which car (or sometimes cars) to clock by
their relative speed to other cars on the road. Sometimes, like when
you're the only one on a stretch of road, they time each car they see.
Any accurately measured distance will do, but accuracy increases as the
baseline gets longer (therefor the time to travel is longer). A simple
stopwatch and calculator or pre-figured lookup table tells the observer
how fast you went between the marks and Mr. tax collector radio's the
ground units to stop you. In most (but maybe not all) locations, the
aircraft must continue to fly near the suspect vehicle until stopped and
verify the ground unit has the correct vehicle for the ticket to be

RADAR on the other hand, does not work well from moving aircraft for the
following reasons:

Moving RADAR must have two reflected signals to work properly, one from
the subject vehicle and one from the moving terrain immediately next to
the police vehicle. The RADAR antenna is designed to have both a
primary and secondary lobe of maximum sensitivity, one directly out the
end of the antenna horn (like a flashlight beam) and another at about 30
degrees from the primary in a much wider funnel-shaped pattern. The
angle at which the secondary pattern strikes the ground makes it's
Doppler-shifted signal indicate 0.866 of the true speed (cosine 30
degrees) so the RADAR gun is set up to adjust automatically. This is
important if fighting a ticket as the RADAR gun must be level on the
police vehicle. This won't work from an airplane because: (a) the
distance from the RADAR gun to the ground and back is much too great for
the weak secondary radiation lobe to reflect back to the RADAR, and (b)
the airplane is not following the same "exact" track as the road, I.E.
ascending or descending, drifting toward or away from the road. Also,
the primary beam of the RADAR would have to be aimed at a downward and
leftward angle toward the subject vehicle which tilts the secondary beam
along with the primary. No chance in hell this is gonna work as the
RADAR's "cosine 30 degrees" adjustment is fixed by the manufacturer and
so is accurate only when the unit is level.

Very advanced Doppler-RADAR, like that on an F-16 fighter (which costs
many millions of your hard-earned tax dollars), could, conceivably,
figure out how fast your car or motorcycle is going with great accuracy
but I've never seen an F-16 manned by the police, have you?.

In short, I think you've been mislead by someone if they told you they
used RADAR from an airplane to clock you. They CAN, however, use the
highly accurate stopwatch and tachymeter (sp?) built into the RADAR gun
to simplify their VASCAR calculations in the airplane (most K-band RADAR
guns have a VASCAR function built-in as they're designed to be

I hope you don't get stopped by any high-flying county-mounties but if
you do, examine the citation carefully and see if you can use any of
this information to find a loophole. Sometimes, in court if you
research the procedures and sound convincingly like you "know" they
couldn't have accurately measured your speed because you can demonstrate
how it can and cannot be accomplished, the judge or clerk/magistrate may
dismiss the ticket (I've successfully beaten a ticket this way). Judges
don't like the unfair revenue-collection tactics some police officers
use any more than you do and will try to assist you if your properly
prepared, polite, neatly-dressed, and all-around a nice-guy. ( know
it's not really fair that looks affect the outcome, but life is seldom

Bob Peloquin
(Virtual cesspool of knowlege, with great taste in motorcycles)
96 VFR750F, 84VF700S


(from Cliff Koch)

  Awhile back I posted about getting a powdercoating kit from Eastwood
Co. I finally got around to trying it out this last weekend, and here's
of my experiences. Unfortunately a digital camera I have on order hasn't
shown up yet, or I'd put some pictures on a web page. I'll try and do
on the next round of experimentation.
  For those that aren't sure what powdercoating is, it's a dry powder
you apply to a metal surface and then cure in an oven. In order to apply
powder to the item, a clip is connected to the part that grounds the
 The particles are sprayed out of a gun at low velocity and are given a
positive charge, so they are attracted to the grounded part and adhere to
 Then you heat the part and the powdercoating melts and bonds to the
 Once it's cured and allowed to cool, you end up with a very tough paint-

   My first powdercoating victim was a V45 carburator graceously donated
Joe Thorne. This is probably one of the tougher things you could pick to
powdercoat because of all of the nooks and crannies around the outside of
carb. Before anyone whines about me attacking perfectly good carbs to
experiment with, these look like they've been in the bottom of a lake for
awhile. There were a total of 3 carbs still attached to a broken airbox.
went after the worst of the three first, but was unable to free the slide
from the carb (and broke out the side of the carb venturi trying to get
out). Next carb. Not as bad, but the slide was still _awfully_ tough to
out and the throttle shaft/butterfly just about as bad, but I finally got

   I treated this carb as though it was a perfectly good carb because one
the things I'm thinking of doing is powdercoating the carbs for my V65,
and I
want an accurate representation of what the powdercoating process will do
the carb. I dropped the stripped carb carcass and float bowl cover into
can of Gunk carb cleaner for awile, scrubbed, and rinsed, leaving a
but still very coroded carburator. I then screwed the float bowl on,
the slide opening and air openings, put rubber plugs into all of the
important holes, and bead blasted the carb. Lets back up a step.

  Hi, I'm Cliff, and I'm a tool-aholic. (chorus: Hi, Cliff!). I have a
of tools, one of which is a sand blast cabinet. Off in the corner of my
workshop is a 60 gallon 5HP compressor to run things like sandblast
among other pneumatic tools. This isn't exactly you're normal home tool,
I've found it to be _great_ at prepping parts for finishing, painting,
now, powdercoating. As you start opening cabinets around my shop, you
finding things like mig welders and all sorts of esoteric hand tools.

   Ok, anyway, I bead blasted the carb. I used a very fine glass bead
with relatively low pressure, and the carb came out looking pretty clean.
turns out the rubber plugs and taping job did not completely keep out the
blasting media, so if I do a real carb. I'll have to be carefull to get
of the media back out of the carb or I'll have jets plugging up on me for
rest of my life.

  Once the bead blasting was done, I retaped the carb with a special high
temp masking tape and plugged all non-dead end holes with special high-
silicone plugs (both are also sold by Eastwood). I hung the thing with a
piece of coathanger poked through the tape on the inlet/outlet of the
 I left the float bowl (sans gasket) screwed on for protecting the float
innards and also coating the float bowl cover. I then put some powder in
gun, got out a air pressure regulator, and went at it. The powder
gun takes very, very little air to run. An airbrush compressor should
pretty well. I have one of those, too, but it has the wrong fittings on
so I used the big compressor and a moisture trap. The airbrush
would probably have been better for this because it's oiless, but with
moisture trap and really low flow rate everything worked fine. The gun
out a small cloud of particles. I didn't exactly see the particles
sucked to the carb from the electrical charge, but a fair amount of the
powder got deposited on it. In the end, I had a hanging carb body that
seemed to be completely covered with the powder. Cool. If I had totally
managed to mess this up somehow, 10 seconds with a blowgun would have
the carb up again.

  I have an oversized toaster oven to do the curing with. I used an oven
thermometer to check the temp of the toaster oven with and was surprised
once it reached equilibrium, it maintained a very steady temp. I need to
find something a bit larger than this oven for things like valve covers
of the other things I plan to powdercoat that would be a very tight fit
this oven). The powder I was using called for 15 minutes @ 400 degrees
cure. I carried the carb using the bent coathanger piece that it was
with, and the coathanger piece was bent such that it could be folded to
side inside the oven without having to remove it. You absolutely cannot
touch the powdercoated surface until after curing or you'll wipe the
off. I also made sure the donor coathanger was not plastic coated so it
wouldn't contaminate the powder coating by dripping on it.

  After about 5 minutes in the pre-heated oven, you could see the powder
start to melt. Eastwood warned of mildly toxic fumes, so I had a
paint mask handy. I really couldn't detect much in the way of fumes
while it
was curing, but I used the mask anyway. After 15 minutes I turned the
toaster oven off and propped the door open slightly to let it cool

   The results: I am not entirely displeased with the way it looks.
actually a pretty good review from me. Especially for a first try at
this. There was a noticable amount of bubbling of the coating around the
inlet. The Eastwood directions warned about this possibility with porous
metals (like cast aluminum), and to get rid of this I should have pre-
the carb to burn contaminents in the metal out before coating. I'll try
next time. Otherwise, the carb turned out pretty well. The coating
seems to
cover 100% of the carb, no runs, very hard, and not at all smelly.
for the bubbling in a couple of areas, it turned out real well.
ready to go as soon as it cooled down.

  Damage to the carb: Very little. There's a fuzzy seal that seals the
of the throttle shaft that I eyed suspiciously before I coated the carb,
thinking it might not survive the heat. It didn't. It was flattened
permanently into the shape of the rubber plug I had stuffed into that
 Unfortunately it looks like the seals are not removable without
them, so I 'll have to check into their cost and availability before
doing a
'real' carb (where's my fiche when I need it, hint, hint :). I did not
remove the pilot needle screw (it's still under the factory plug,
one that is), and it probably had a rubber seal that is toast. I'll need
locate and inspect that, but I'd remove it before doing a 'real' carb.
throttle plate and slide still moved freely in their bores after
and seemed to be a tight fit (I had cleaned those areas up prior to
powdercoating), so it doesn't appear that the body warped any during the
heating (one of my major worries). I'll probably cut up the basket case
and check for anything like lead slugs in passages, but I don't expect

   The color I used was "cast aluminum". It turned out a bit too grey for
tastes. I also have "satin black" and "gloss black". I think I'll try
satin black on the next test carb.

  Hopefully the digital camera will come REAL SOON NOW so I can document
before/during/after with pictures on the next carb, but I can't wait too
because not finishing the carbs is a major stumbling block in
reassembling my
V65 Magna.

   Questions?   Anyone?   Anyone?   Bueller?


(from Bob Peloquin)

I feel I should share some useful information I've picked up about the
general operating principles of our alternators and
regulator/rectifiers. There has been a lot of recent list activity
lately with some rather strange conclusions being drawn and I'd like to
help set the record straight. Please don't flame me if you disagree,
I'm trying to HELP, not piss people off.

The V4 (and most of Honda's other motors, I think) has a 3-phase, delta
configuration, permanent-magnet alternator. This means that alternator
voltage and current are directly proportional to engine RPM. There is
no built-in method of regulating the output of this type of alternator
as the magnetic field comes from rotating permanent magnets and not from
a controllable electromagnet (as in a cage alternator). This type of
alternator does not produce enough voltage/current to run all the
accessories and lights at idle speed but it is small, simple,
well-proven technology which has served Honda and most other M/C
companies well over the years.
BTW, some of the newer Suzuki's use a small, cage-type alternator driven
off the top of the transmission input shaft which has a rotating field
and stationary 3-phase stator coil so it IS controllable (bet they don't
have regulator failures & meltdowns).

The V4 has a combination rectifier and regulator which "shunts" the
excess voltage and current produced by the alternator directly to ground
through internal TRIAC semiconductors. These have a low resistance when
active but some resistance still exists which is why the
regulator/rectifier gets hot. At low engine rpm's the regulator portion
does nothing at all and allows all the current to pass through the
rectifier portion and into the battery and lighting systems of the bike.
 As RPM increases, so does the voltage and current coming out of the
alternator. At a preset voltage, usually around 14 - 15 volts, the
TRIAC's are gated (activated) and begin chopping off the peaks of the
sine-wave AC voltage coming from the alternator by connecting the
windings to ground. At above 5000 RPM, most of the current produced by
the alternator is being shunted to ground.

Where does all this current go, you ask. It heats up the alternator
windings (which are cooled by engine oil), the regulator/rectifier, and
unfortunately it also heats the electrical connectors and cause
meltdowns when corroded connectors are present. On the late-model VFR's
the regulator is inadequately cooled as Honda eliminated the finned
heat-sink and just bolted the metal case to the frame in hopes that it
would dissipate enough heat to keep it from frying. (in solid state
electronics, cool = good).

This is an extremely simple design but it has several weaknesses that
can cause catastrophic failure when components fail.

1.      Bad regulator/rectifier can either short ALL current to ground
causing alternator overheating and connector meltdown or it can short
NONE to ground allowing unregulated high voltage to feed the rest of the
system and burn up your battery and lights in a big hurry.

2.      Bad connectors (high resistance) causes all the waste energy to
the electrical connectors instead of the alternator windings until it
melts and/or burns up the connectors.

3.      Weak battery can cause regulator/rectifier to be overworked
overheating and failure (battery acts as an additional regulating
component as it's low internal resistance tends to try to keep voltage
constant relative to it's state of charge)

Now, as for the other questions I've seen:

Some of you seem to be having difficulty with some of the concepts and
terms, so here the explanations:
>> I understand what a diode does. the clymer drawing shows a voltage
>> with rectifier and seperatly a rectifier. The question came in cause
>> drawing uses the symbol for a diode in the place labeled rectifier.
What I
>> have previously seen labeled as a diode is a solid arrow that butts up
>> a line perpendicular to the line that the arrow is on,like
>> -------->|-------

A diode is a one-way valve for electricity.

A "bridge-rectifier" is a combination of 4 or more diodes in a
configuration called a "Whetstone Bridge" which make AC voltage into
pulsing DC voltage. This is also called a full-wave rectifier. Often,
you'll see the two terms "diode" and "rectifier" used interchangeably.
The Sab-Mag rectifier uses 6 diodes

The little symbol -->|-- is the schematic representation of a diode.
The rule of thumb for current flow through a diode is that current flows
against the direction of the arrow and current flows from negative to
positive (none of you physics professors need jump in here with any of
your "hole conduction" crap). If you look at the wiring diagram for
your Sabmag you'll see a little diode symbol in the circuit between the
clutch switch, neutral light, and the starter solenoid. The diode keeps
the clutch switch from turning on your neutral light whenever you pull
in the clutch.

>IIRC, the alternator produces
>three-phase AC.
>This needs to be first converted into pulsing DC. This is acomplished
>by a "rectifier bridge" or rectifier for short. This is normally a set
>of diodes in a
>specific patern. Then, there has to be a way to regulate this.
>So you create an electronic device that feeds back to the alternator,
>controlling the fields to keep the voltage somewhat constant.

Well, almost, but not quite right... See above: The permanent magnet
alternator on a SabMag has no such feedback capability.

>And then you have the battery that acts as a huge capacitor that
>DC to a nice stable output.

Yup. (except it's more like a constant voltage capacitor)

OK, now I've got to get back to work.

Bob Peloquin   Worcester, MA

(from   )

My apologies for the non sabmag content, but I've noticed we have some
Juno users and I thought I would share a little trick I learned to get
of those pesky ads that clog up the program.
     You can't stop Juno from downloading them onto your computer, but you
can easily remove them yourself with this command line in your
     deltree /y \[full pathname] Example, if your using Win95 and have
installed Juno into the default directory the command line would be:
/y \progra~1\Juno\ads
You have to use the DOS short names for it to work. If you already know
about this, Stop, delete this message, accept my apology (please) and
continue reading your other messages. :)
     Otherwise...Every time you boot up your computer this command line
delete the Ads directory and all its contents. Not to fear though, Juno
replace it the next time you get your mail and if you open Juno more than
once between reboots then the ads will be back again till you reboot and
delete the ads folder again. It has been my experience that the ads do
reappear till you have opened Juno the second time after booting up.
     If you're unsure about doing this *don't* :) If you have a question
contact me offlist and I'll try to answer it :) If the ads don't annoy
don't bother:)
     Again, my apologies for the non motorcycle content, just passing some
possibly useful info to other members.

Speed Safe,


Subject: Re: Oil filter information
From: Brian Sydness <sydnesb@SOBACK.KORNET.NM.KR> **NOTE: invalid
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 23:49:21 +0900

Bob Sunley has offered up some web space for my oil filter information.
Its located at

If the info is worthy of the SabMag FAQ, feel free to insert.

Once again, thanks Bob.

Subject: (fwd) Evolution of a "List"
From: Michael Hampton <mhampton@FASTLANE.NET>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 20:07:38 GMT

Got this from the Wings List and thought it appropriate with recent
of this list. While not SabMag related, it IS list related.

>Every list seems to go through the same cycle:
>1. Initial enthusiasm (people introduce themselves, and gush alot about
>wonderful it is to find kindred souls).
>2. Evangelism (people moan about how few folks are posting to the list,
>brainstorm recruitment strategies).
>3. Growth (more and more people join, more and more lengthy threads
>develop, occasional off-topic threads pop up).
>4. Community (lots of threads, some more relevant than others; lots of
>information and advice is exchanged; experts help other experts as well
>less experienced colleagues; friendships develop; people tease each
>newcomers are welcomed with generosity and patience; everyone -- newbie
>expert alike -- feels comfortable asking questions, suggesting answers,
>sharing opinions).
>5. Discomfort with diversity (the number of messages increases
>dramatically; not every thread is fascinating to every reader; people
>complaining about the signal-to-noise ratio; person 1 threatens to quit
>*other* people don't limit discussion to person 1's pet topic; person 2
>agrees with person 1; person 3 tells 1 & 2 to lighten up; more bandwidth
>wasted complaining about off-topic threads than is used for the threads
>themselves; everyone gets annoyed).
>6a. Smug complacency and stagnation (the purists flame everyone who asks
>'old' question or responds with humor to a serious post; newbies are
>rebuffed; traffic drops to a doze-producing level of a few minor issues;
>all interesting discussions happen by private email and are limited to a
>few participants; the purists spend lots of time self-righteously
>congratulating each other on keeping off-topic threads off the list).
>       OR
>6b. Maturity (a few people quit in a huff; the rest of the participants
>stay near stage 4, with stage 5 popping up briefly every few weeks; many
>people wear out their second or third 'delete' key, but the list lives
>contentedly ever after).


Subject: Valve adjustments made easy
From: Ron Butterfield <ronb@NETPATH.NET>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 21:21:35 -0400

Richard Wainwright posted an abridged version of this a little while ago;
ran across the original from Dave Dodge while poking about the V-65 BBS

and thought the added detail was worth reading.   If you don't agree, your
delete key works, doesn't it ;-)


Posted by Dave Dodge on April 14, 1998 at 21:28:13:

In Reply to: The valve thing... posted by DJ on April 14, 1998 at

Over the years I have developed a method of adjusting the valves on V-4's
that is accurate and quick. The crank and rotor position is the same
the rotor TDC marks. Make sure that the cylinder you are adjusting the
valves for is on TDC compression stroke. On the rear cylinders the cam
lobes will be pointing AWAY from each other, and on the front cylinders
the lobes will be facing UP and slightly towards each other when the
particular cylinder to be adjusted is at the correct position.

**IMPORTANT** Note revised measurements below.

Loosen and back off the adjusting nuts on the intake and exhaust rockers.
Place a .004" feeler gauge between the cam lobe and rocker arm. Snug
down the adjusting screws (with your fingers) until each screw just
touches the valve tip, then move the feeler gauge back and forth to make
sure there is drag (not tight/not loose) and tighten the nuts with a
Now recheck the clearance at the valve with a .006" feeler gauge. The
feel should be a snug .006" or a loose .005". Re-adjust the screw if
you dont get this feel on all four valves. Use same procedure on
three cylinders.

There is a 1.5 to 1 rocker arm ratio, so .004" at the cam gives you a
.006" at the valve. This procedure reduces the risk of uneven rocker
adjustment. Once you get the feel of a snug .006" clearance, you will
find you have proper setting for long cam life and minimal (if any)
IMPORTANT: I always torque the adjusting nuts to 15 ft.lbs. Tighten the
nuts with a wrench enough so they wont come loose, then rotate engine
until rocker arm depresses valve about half way. This will allow room
for the torque wrench and the pressure against the adjusting screw will
keep it from turning while you are torqueing.

Ron Butterfield


DRP has tightened the tolerances by .001" since the procedure was placed
on the net. You
now want .003" between the lobe and the rocker, which equates to .005 at
the valve tips. In
the end you want no less than .004 (tight) and no more than .006 at the
valve tips. He posted
this to the list on 10-7-99.
  -update contributed by LAWRENCE ZOIA <>


Subject: Re: need help
From: David Dodge <drp123@MINDSPRING.COM>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 08:03:08 -0400

Over the last couple of weeks I have received numerous cam installation
questions. The factory manual assumes that the wrench knows the theory
evolution of the four stroke engine. This is also compounded by the fact
that you are actually working with two completely different engine
configurations (i.e. front and rear head). Shaft drive and chain drive
engines rotate in different directions so the procedures are reversed.
is a very confusing task for the average technician, not to mention

Greg, the VF750F (Interceptor) guy in trouble, received a 2-page e-mail
from me to explain the process. I have been adding this info in my new
catalog (reason for delay) to provide this technical step-by-step info.

If anyone out there needs info on installing cams, degreeing cams, head
prep, transmission repairs or engine rebuilds, you will want the catalog!
If you need help right away, feel free to contact me off-list and I will
forward some info to help.


Subject: Radials And (Lots of) other Issues
From: Tony Donisi <donisit@MACOM.COM>
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 12:00:08 -0500
A lot of stuff all at once, since I have little time to write, so here

About 15" radials: Forget it, they don't exist. I was telling MTFK, if
Metzler 99A's are not available, then IMO the next best tire to run would
be the
SE11's. See my website for details on each tire I have tried on the

Avon makes a 140-80 Radial that may be suitable for the V45. It is the
same one
that Grethe may be using on her V30. Talk to me in private for details.

Also, I forgot to mention last week that Joel & I went to the Junkyard
hell, and what did he have? Two original Hondaline fairings for the
Sabre. One
was in great shape, the other was not as good as it could be. If anyone
interested, I will e-mail them the phone number and address.

I just picked up some 3M Scotchcal paint protective film up last
Saturday. One
word--Expensive!! A 6" by 76" roll was $50! I will give a report later
as to
how it works on the just finished paint job.

TPM is coming along! I can't wait to mount the Pichler fairing and the
rest of
the painted parts!! I don't think that there's anything left to chrome!!
(thank Ged! -.ed)

The New Metzler MEZ2 Radials are great!! There is not much clearance
the caliper arm and the tire, but it does not rub at all! The handling
fantastic!! MEZ2 150-80-ZR16 Rear, and 110-80-ZR18 Front.

If anyone has an interceptor that is running with radials, please contact


Subject: Re: Intercepter cams are screwed
From: David Dodge <drp123@MINDSPRING.COM>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 17:50:36 -0400

Cliff Koch wrote:
> I just popped the rear valve cover off the '83 V45 Intercepter I
>picked up, and the cams don't look very good. All of the lobes show
>the exhaust worse than the intakes. And this is a bike with only 8500
>on it. Damn. It may not be enough to change the profile much, but
>noticable scoring on all of the lobes. By comparison, my '83 V65 cams
>an unknown milage on it ( >38K) look quite good, even though they have
>pitting. The early '83 Intercepters were supposed to be the worst of
the lot
>for camshaft damage due to an extra oil restriction, and this is
probably one
>of those. It's a very early production model (serial number 0000106).

> What are the current options for cam replacement? Dave Dodge, do you
>anything in the way of cams? I know of the stealer and the canadian
>that regrinds the cams.
> Does anyone know what the cam profile is supposed to be? I have all
of the
>tools necessary (degree wheels, dial gauges, etc) to measure the cam
lift and
>would like to do so to see how bad of shape they really are.
> For the moment I think I'll just install the oil mod and synthetic oil
>cross my fingers that things don't get a lot worse for while. I'll try
>deal with cam replacement this winter or maybe after my V65 is back on


The very early Interceptors had very soft cams, weak cam chain
and a need for an oil mod. Do the cams installed in the motor have a hole
drilled in the base circle (bottom) of the cam lobe?
These engines would also spit out the occasional rod bearing when flogged
hard. I do have cams for all V-4 engines. My cams are hardwelded and
nitrided to provide the correct (and proven) cam hardness. To my
the Canadian fellow only regrinds the same stock cam, without hardweld.
you need valve springs, titanium retainers, bronze guides, rocker arms,
chain tensioners, slotted cam sprockets, or whatever, I HAVE IT!
I am currently building an Interceptor engine to Stage 4 for a new drag
bike, and have two engines, an '83 and '84 plus a bunch of parts.
I recently published a step-by-step V-4 cam installation and degreeing
sheet for the Sabre and Magna's. I will revise the steps to accommodate
Interceptor and mail you a copy. I will also include the degree specs for
the stock cams, and a sheet covering how to adjust the valves.

Now for the oil system. I have a couple tricks to improve oil pressure
throughout the motor. If you can send me your oil pump and pressure
valve, I will do them for you. It's worth about 20 lbs. of pressure at
higher RPM. I have always used my drill and tap oil mod on these engines.
It is different than any other method, and works very well.

TO ALL ON THE LIST:   I HAVE CAMS, that work!!!!!


Subject: '87 VF700C Super Magna fiche on CD-ROM
From: Gerardo Fisanotti <fisanott@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 08:29:04 PDT

Let me introduce myself, I've subscribed to the List a couple of
weeks ago and I've been reading-only until now. My name is Gerardo
Fisanotti, I live in Csrdoba, Argentina and I own a couple of bikes,
one of them a beautiful '87 VF700C (sometimes referred as SuperMagna).

I've read some of you talking about a CD-ROM version of the V65 micro
fiche; does anybody know of a version for my Magna? I'd love to get
one, I already have the original Honda Service Manual (bought directly
from Tokyo) but would like to have the exploded views with all the
part numbers.

I invite you all to visit my web page at:

(this link may not work)

there you'll find some pictures of the bikes and some info about my
other interests.

Regards to all the bikers, ride safe.



Subject: Re: Temperature Gauge Findings
From: Brian Sydness <sydnesb@SOBACK.KORNET21.NET> **address not current**
Date: Wed, 3 Jun 1998 09:03:23 +0900

At 10:05 AM 6/2/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey all,
>After seeing "Heart of GOld" running hot (according to the bar gauge), I
>decided to do some investigating. I bought myself a candy thermometer
>for $5.00, grabbed my multimeter and went to work. Here are my


Bryan, I did the same thing a few years back on my Sabre. I'm sending it
the list for all to use.
   Well I finally broke down and borrowed the thremocouple probe from
work....ssshhh. Several people including myself are interested in what
LCD bars on instrument cluster represent.
    First step: simulate temp change/resistance with LCD display.
Disconnected sensor lead and attached a 0-500 ohm variable resistor, -->
ground. Ignition on, adjust resistor to register display change(bars).
Measure resistance at each change. Results follows.

    Bar display      Resistance(ohm)
       none            >205
        1               203 +/-4
        2               153 +/-3
        3                83 +/-3
        4                43 +/-2
        5                33 +/-2
        6                23 +/-1
        7&8              <16

    The resistance readings indicates the display transistion from one
to the next.

The second step required using a temp probe in a solution of anitfreeze.
The temp sensor is attached to a DVOM and placed in the solution. Heat
applied and the following readings were observed. If I was married, my
wife would "string me up" for using the kitchen in this manner. I used a
poly-ethylene glycol (non-toxic).

 Temperature C/F      Resistance(ohm)      Temperature C/F
     30/86                 370                 90/194                   47
     40/104               270                 95/203                  40
     45/113               210                 100/212                35
     50/122               180                 105/221                30
     55/131               150                 110/230
     60/140               120(104.0)     115/239               23
     65/149               105                 120/248
     70/158                 90                 125/257                18
     75/167                 75                 130/266                16
     80/176                 65
     85/185                 55(43.9)

  NOTE: () Readings according to Clymer. I seriously doubt their
 Unusual to see readings consistent and repeatable to tenths of an ohm.

   My readings indicate a smooth curve (upper left to lower right),
shifted to the right of the curve represented by the readings per Clymer.
A left shift would display a high temp indication.

   The clymer manual suggested a kitchen type thermometer.   I tried and
wasn't even close.

            | *
            | *
        R   | *
        e   | *
        s   |   *
        i   |     *
        s   |      *
        t   |        *
        a   |          *
        n   |            *
        c   |                *
        e   |                     *
            |                            *

 Putting all the info toghether. My display may differ slight than
 Variance in temp sender and sensitivity in LCD display.

       Bar       Temp C/F    Conditions
        1            46/115     Warm-up
        2            54/129     Warm-up
        3            72/162     Warm-up, highway speed.
        4            93/199     City speeds, some stops.
        5           102/216     Heavy traffic, fan off/on.
        6           115/239     Only balancing carbs, fan off/on.
        7&8      130/266     R&R fan switch

Brian Sydnes
'85 VF700S


Subject: Re: Dealings at Deal's Gap
From: Brian Sydness <sydnesb@SOBACK.KORNET.NM.KR> **invalid address**
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 1998 09:52:54 +0900

I visited the Frog Farm FAQ a few years ago and came across some
information on dealing with tickets and being arrested. Also if you are
being questioned or detained by a Federal Official, check out the Public
Servant's Questionnaire. I've used it during a security investigation
At the beginning of the interview the agent was very condescending. By
of the interview he was calling me Mr. and Sir.

Brian Sydnes


Subject: Re: Ring & Pinion
From: David Dodge <>
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 23:04:53 -0400

A VF700 Sabre or Magna primary gear and clutch housing will increase your
your RPM by approx. 500 in each gear. These two pieces will fit your V45
and install without special tools. Takes about the same amount of time as
clutch replacement. Example 40 MPH at 3,000 RPM would become 40 MPH at
3,500 RPM.

The V45 Magna has a 3.18:1 rear-end ratio. You could use the ring/pinion
gears out of a V45 Sabre or the VF700 Sabre or Magna, which is 3.4:1
and good for about 750 RPM more in each gear. You would need to install
these into your V45 Magna rear case. Sabre does not have the shock mount
lug. As you know, the rear-end gears would need to be set-up.

The Interceptors are chain driven with 5-speed trans ratios. The primary
gears are way too low for the Sabre/Magna, though they will fit.

The lower gear ratios were used in the 700 to make up for its' lack of
torque. You might also consider the spark boxes from a 700 which provide
degrees more initial timing at idle, with the same 37 degrees full

I am always looking for parts and potential trades for them.


Dave Dodge - DRP

Subject: fastener info
From: Ted Fulmer <tfulmer@OSTC.EXTERNAL.HP.COM>
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 14:37:11 CDT

I'm still looking for a source for the bolt - honda dealer says
that it's on "back order" which he says is a polite way of saying
"not available".

I found this info on the BMW page - thought it might be handy
for you to have as well:

Fastener Sources

All-Metric Company . . . . . . . 206   624-3850
                            FAX: 206   622-3057
Gardner-Wescott Co . . . . . . . 800   521-9805
Hi-Strength Bolt Co . . . . . .  206   622-6360
                            FAX: 206   622-3057
McMaster-Carr . . . . . . . . .  908   329-3200
Seastrom Manufacturing . . . . . 213   245-9121
                            FAX: 213   246-6803
Tacoma Screw Products . . . . .  800   426-8156
                                 206   572-3444
                            FAX: 206   272-2719
Ted Fulmer


Subject: Re: charging system question
From: Bob Peloquin <BPeloquin@HANSONDATA.COM>
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 07:34:48 -0400

Ok... Picture a sine-wave with the peak just above 14 volts...      This is
one phase of your alternator's output at idle...

Now picture the same wave at 8000 RPM...   Probably, the peak is over 40
or 50 volts!!!

The regulator measures the voltage and triggers the triac (a triac turns
on and stays on till the voltage across it reverses) which shunts all
further voltage directly to ground... So, at idle you get almost 50% of
the time where there's a possibility of charging.

Since the voltage hits 14 much sooner at 8000 RPM than at 1200 RPM,
there's much less time where the voltage is not shunted to ground. This
means almost all the charging current goes to waste at high RPM.

At low-mid RPM the slope of the sine wave is gentle enough for good
charging to occur but at high RPM's the slope at the 14 volt point is
practically vertical leading to only 5% of the time charging before the
triac is gated and shuts down the charging system for 1/2 a revolution.
This is a simplifed example, of course, as the real sabmag alternator is
3-phase and has multiple poles. Also it doesn't take into account how
your battery and lights load the system. A bad battery, which has a
high internal resistance, will cause all sorts of regulation problems
with this type of system.

Some modern bikes (Gold-Wings, Valkyries, Big Suzukis etc.) have
automotive-type regulated field alternators which can put out serious
current at just about any RPM... This type is more powerful, but not
necessarily "better". Simplicity and ruggedness are good things in the
harsh operating environment of motorcycles. There are no sliding
brushes, drive gears, or extra bearings to wear out on your sabmag and
the permanent-magnet alternator will probably outlast several
conventional alternators.

>From: Kevin Draz[SMTP:kevind@POGO.WV.TEK.COM]
>Sent: Saturday, August 08, 1998 2:46 AM
>Subject:       Re: charging system question
>>Tell me why my V65 makes 12.5 volts at 4500rpm, but makes almost 14
volts at
>>only 1200 rpm. I changed the rectifier but that didn't help. The
>>system is soldered, no brakes in the wires. Tell me, what next?
>Okay, now getting serious: I understand the way the voltage regulator
>on a SabMag and many other bikes, is instead of varying the strength of
>alternator's field to correspondingly change the power output, like an
>automotive system; the regulator instead acts to shunt power to ground
>through a varying resistive device (a triac? Plastic eatin' Bob P.,
>help me
>out here.), in effect providing a variable load on the electrics which
>holds voltage and charging current steady.


Subject: Spam: Arial Photo of Deal's Gap
From: Mike Stewart <mstewart@M1.SPRYNET.COM>
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 13:42:19 -0400

Since the Terra Server is now functioning at a decent level of
service, I thought some of you might find the following link

(editor's note: copy and paste this URL in its entirity for best results)

If you click on the small rectangular blob toward the bottom, you'll
zoom in on the store and campground. The interesting thing is, I
never knew there were that many house hiding up in the trees. You
can try to follow the road, but it gets lost in the trees in some

Okay, for our next trick:

Can you find the dam and overlook on the other end?

It's a pretty cool site. However, don't surf it at work or you'll
never get any work done. "Let's see if I can find my childhood home.
Hmm, what about the Fontana dam? Hey, fellow coworker from India,
let's see if we can find your house back home."

Mike Stewart


Subject: Re: Headlight modulators
From: "WO nospam" <> (from the SE riders list)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 09:32:49 -0700

>Didn't you post a URL for a modulator and a vest controller (or more?)
>a while back


Subject: Re: First time out
From: Jack <paddlefoot@COCOCO.NET>
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 22:20:21 GMT

On Thu, 27 Aug 1998 16:09:50 -0400,   Bob Peloquin
<BPeloquin@HANSONDATA.COM> said:

>When you say you've changed the flasher, do you mean the electronic unit
>under the seat that flashes the bulbs, or do you mean the turn-signal
>The switch not-only operates the signals but also turns off the running
>light on the front signal so it'll show up better. If you have problems
>with this then you should clean the switch. OEM Honda flashers are
>kinda pricey if I remember...

Have we forgotten already? There's a fix for the notoriously fickle
and expen$ive Honda flasher. Total cost is less than $10.

Dave Berkey first posted this fix back on 10/13/96, I used it for a
while until I found a working stock unit, and I still have my "fix" in
case the stock goes bad again. It works and it's easy to do, and you
can always go back to stock if you want to. Here it is in Dave's own
:I had the same problem a while back, including heart stoppage when I
:out what Honda wanted for the replacement flasher. Actually, at least on
:'83 Magna, the signal circut is pretty simple. The Green/White wire
:power and the Gray wire feeds the signal lights. A 2-terminal cage
:will do the job, part #536/552 littlefuse. The power wire connects to
:terminal, the lights to the other. It doesn't seem to matter which one
:connects where.
: I didn't want to chop up the Honda wiring so here's how I "rigged" it
:A 3-prong headlight socket from the parts house will provide a place to
:in the new flasher. By opening up the existing flasher and cutting off a
:little of the circut board, you will have a socket which will plug into
:Honda wiring and a place to solder the leads from the headlight socket.
:Shorten and strip the headlight socket socket leads and solder one to
:correspond with the Green/White wire and one to correspond to the Gray
:Cut off and discard the third headlight socket lead. Use hot glue or
:something like it to connect the 2 sockets together to prevent breaking
:the leads, plug in the new flasher, mount and plug in the assembly to
:Honda wiring and you're done.

Jack Hunt


Subject: Another new lister introduces herself
From: Katherine Becker <kbecker@HAMJUDO.COM>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 21:30:28 -0500

Hello SabMaggots!

I've decided to follow the example of some other new listers, and
introduce myself. My name is Katherine Becker. I'm from Ypsilanti,
Michigan, and I've been lurking for a week or so.

I never rode a motorcycle, except once in awhile as a passenger, until
this year. But I'm no stranger to the troubles one encounters on two
wheels. I spent three years bicycle commuting year 'round. When people
asked me what kind of cyclist I was (racer, mountain biker, etc) I would
say "One who always gets where she's going." :-) I also taught
Cycling (sort of like the pedal bike equivalent of and MSF course) for a
couple of years. If you think motorcycles are invisible to the cagers,
try being a bicyclist! A lot of the Effective Cycling techniques focus
things like choosing the best road position, and I find that a lot of it
translates very well to motorcycling. I've been commuting by motorcycle
for the last couple months, and I've had remarkably little trouble with
the cages.

I took the MSF class in June. The book stuff was easy, I knew half of it
from Effective Cycling already. The range stuff was harder. I was
scared, and I had a hard time keeping all the different motions straight.
When I reached for the front brake, it was the clutch. I had to do
unfamiliar things with my feet, and mine are both left feet. The bikes
were so tiny I kept banging my knees on the handlebars. Also, it was
90 degrees and sunny out there on the range, and there we were riding
miles per hour on air-cooled bikes while wearing coats, long pants,
and helmets. I thought I would pass out, and I failed my road test.

I thought maybe the fates were against me, that I'd never be a
motorcyclist. So I bought a beat-up, cheap Yamaha Seca 550, as a small
bike to get started on. I thought it would do for me for the rest of the
riding season. It was a week before I left my subdivision. At one point
I was pursued by two children on mopeds and I was too scared to speed
from them. But then I started to get the hang of it. Erik Kauppi, who
on this list, was kind enough to be the licensed rider my learner's
required to supervise me. The first time I left my neighborhood (the
first time I went over 40mph!) I got hit in the head by a bird, about
miles from my house. I didn't crash, or go out of my lane or even weave
very much, though I was quite startled. Maybe I could do this after all.
I took the road test again and passed. This was in July.

Since then I've ridden about 5000 miles, first on the baby Seca, and then
on a Yamaha Maxim 750. I decided that the 750 was better than the 550,
but that I preferred the standard to the cruiser. With a little advice
and help from Erik, I disassembled the carbs on the Maxim, cleaned the
pieces, and put them back together. I've also weathered a few mechanical
problems on the road. I've taken two weekend trips on the Maxim, and I
have trip reports on my web site, at

They're long, and they aren't on a SabMag bike, so I won't send them to
the list.

Earlier this month, I went out for a ride with Erik, and I tried his
Sabre, Dogbreath. It was very nice. I asked Erik to help me find my own
V65 Sabre. In case you were wondering, no, the Sabre is not too tall for
me even if I am female. I'm almost 6 feet tall, long legged and sturdy.
I can easily put both feet on the ground while sitting on the Sabre. The
bike feels like it was made for me.

Erik found me a Sabre much more quickly than I had expected him to. We
rode two-up to Naperville, Illinois, and bought a V65 Sabre from Greg,
is also on the list. We rode back. Erik (who always drives fast) was
chasing this Jaguar, and I stayed right on his tail, fringe and braid
flying behind me. The bike has no windshield, but I discovered that if I
put my feet on the passenger pegs and rested my chin on the tank bag it
was quite comfy and the wind hardly bothered me.

Greg and Erik worked on the bike at Greg's house. I would have worked on
it too, but I deferred to them since they know more, and we needed to be
getting home sometime that weekend. I watched, and saw the cams, which
are kinda messed up. Erik is good at explaining these things. I'm
untrained but mechanically inclined and learning fast. Last week I got
new tires, the Avon Roadrunners, but the wheels still aren't back on,
because the fork seals leak and oil has gotten on the front brakes.
Sunday Erik and I worked on the forks, and soon we'll do the brakes.
winter we will do the oil mod. I've ordered the POR15 tank kit, and I'll
probably do that by myself, it looks easy enough.

Anyways, this is getting kind of long, and I'm late for dinner, so I'll
stop now. I look forward to riding the Sabre to some of the SabMag
gatherings and meeting some of you!

Katherine Becker


Subject: Fuel Pump Internals
From: James F McFaden <jmcf@MINDSPRING.COM>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 09:23:54 -0600

Hi All,
I fried my Sabre V65 fuel pump back around 1986 when installing an
on/off/momentary switch in the pump circuit (The momentary side bypasses
the relay to fill the carbs before pressing the starter). I bought a new
one and later took the fried one apart.   It has a diode in parallel
between the contacts and the servo coil. I think it's to reduce arching
the points caused by hysteresis in the coil when the field collapses.
you wire the pump, even just for an instant, with reversed polarity, this
diode instantly becomes a permanent resistor, making the coil useless. I
replaced the diode with a Radio Shack one (polarity must be correct) and
epoxied the body back together and it worked fine. It's been on my
now for about 4 years with no problems. Much cheaper than buying a new

Jim in Dallas


Subject: Re: Filters/Mods, was Honda by Harley?
From: David Dodge <drp123@MINDSPRING.COM>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 09:43:20 -0500

On Nov 20 Phil Ross said:
>>It was apparent in 1985 that development had ended on the big V4 when
>>the 1986 VF700/750 engine (unchanged for the "Super" Magna except for
>>the grey paint) debuted with line-bored cams--a running change
>>not shared with the 1986 VF1100 engine.

Ron Rosensweet wrote:
>Oops. Does this mean that my '86 V65 Magna does not have the line bored
>I had been led to believe that Honda corrected their cam problems (via
>boring) on the VF1100 by then. This is the reason (plus the fact that
cams >looked good on the valve adjustment this spring) that I have not
installed >the oil mod.
>I believe Zimbob -- who has the same model -- also goes along with this.
>Have we been living in dreamland?

I have mentioned before that the primary problem with cam failure has to
with the oil system (design) and the proper valve clearance settings to
allow the cams/rocker area to be lubricated properly. Correct valve
adjustments and frequent oil changes can prevent cam wear. The design of
the oil system allows the top-end oil lines and components to drain if
bike sits for a while causing a dry start-up condition. I have recently
seen bikes with 40,000 miles on them without problem, all of the sudden
have cams go bad. This is caused by lack of oil. In most cases this has
been on bikes that are put back into service after sitting for years, or
long winter. There are ways to pre-oil the engine before start-up after
long down-time.

And here we go again about oil mods, listen carefully. Aftermarket oil
provide an oil system that eliminates the above mentioned design flaws,
1) Oil pressure to the top-end is increased
2) Supplies clean and filtered oil to the cams
3) Drawing oil from the filtered side of the system prevents line

If not clear, install an oil mod for improved top-end life. It can be a
bolt-on style, or the drill-tap style. I have also recently combined the
styles for a customer that is using a bolt-on adapter with a line running
back to a plugged trans fitting and uses the stock head lines (via
Paddlefoot mod).

I am currently porting a set of '85 and '86 heads. Both had bad rockers
were supplied with worn cams. Additionally, the cam journals were grooved
caused by crap (not filtered) passing through the oil system. Align-
the heads would not have helped this. Probably the biggest improvement
to the later engines was the gear-driven cams, which I might add made it
necessary to align-bore.

OIL FILTER NOTE: There is absolutely no aftermarket oil filter on the
market that works as good as the stock OEM original Honda filter. Filter
area and internal back-valving is superior and designed for the engine
oil system. Using aftermarket filters will pass more crap to the top-end,
especially if you do not have an oil mod. Cut a few filters apart, and
tear-down a few dozen engines (like I have) and it becomes very clear
filters work best. I personally think you guys need to quit worrying
saving $6.00, and use the correct components. Cages can get away with
parts, because they dont see 9,000 RPM or have clearances as tight as
.0005" (1/2 thou.). If $6.00 every 3 mos. breaks the bank, then you
shouldn't be riding a motorcycle. The opinions expressed here are based
experiences of the author, and reflect no attacks on anyone, tight-wads.

Dave Dodge - DRP


Subject: Re: Valves revisited
From: David Dodge <drp123@MINDSPRING.COM>
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 08:34:12 -0500

Tim Kennedy wrote:

>My question, is how do you know which cylinder is supposed to have the
>valves adjusted on which turn of the crankshaft?   Can you tell by the
>the cam lobe is turned?
Use the marks on the alternator rotor for crank position, then verify cam
position by lobe plcement and/or cam sprocket marks. Crankshaft rotation
required to adjust each of the four cylinders. On the rear cylinders with
the TDC 1-3 rotor mark aligned the cam lobes should be faced away from
other before adjustment. On the front cylinders with the TDC 2-4 rotor
aligned the cam lobes should face up and slightly towards each other
adjustment. This is for Sabre and Magna, the Interceptor is reversed.
note that not all cam sprockets have alignment marks at 45 degrees for
front cylinders.

>I noticed one side of the cam lobe has a little hole/indentation in it.
>Is that how you can tell?

NO, these holes have been placed in different locations on different
models and revision levels to improve oiling.

I have printed "Cam Installation/Degreeing" and "Valve Adjustment"
instruction sheets available for those who want them. I have them for the
Sabre/Magna and Interceptor. Just e-mail me your mailing address, and I
will send you a set for FREE. Hopefully soon (when I'm not working 18/7),
I'll get this stuff up on a web site.

Dave Dodge - DRP


Subject: Re: Wire Splicing
From: Erik Kauppi <ekauppi@CORSA-INST.COM>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 00:29:12 -0800

I like to twist the wires together end to end, solder carefully,
and apply adhesive lined heat shrink tube. The shrink tube is
important as it supports the connection mechanically, and
seals out the weather. Adhesive lined shrink, like EPS 300 from
3M, is much better than the ordinary shrink tube, but a little
harder to find.

I don't trust the ordinary aftermarket crimp connectors
at all. Aircraft crimp connectors or genuine OEM connectors
are OK but *only* if assembled properly with the correct tooling.

If I have to use a regular crimp connector, I solder after crimping,
and use shrink tube over the connector and wire to
reinforce the joint. Overkill perhaps, but one lost race due
to a $0.19 connector failure will do that to you.
You can get EPS 300 shrink tube, along with lots of other
cool stuff, from Digikey. 1-800-digikey for free catalog.
They cheerfully take small credit card orders. Sort of
the McMaster-Carr of the electronics world, but it's
easy to get their catalog.

BTW, as long as I'm rambling, I've been off the list for a
while due to extreme busyness and family troubles.
Please send to me personally if you need to reach
me, I may not be checking list digests much.

>From:   Uncle Milt [SMTP:mrmilt@EARTHLINK.NET]
>Sent:   Wednesday, December 09, 1998 6:11 PM
>Subject:        Wire Splicing
>Oh great electrical wizards of SabMag, and even Ryder too, what is the
>best, most permanent, most conductive way of splicing the ends of two
>together inline, and sealing it from corrosion? Has anyone had any
>experience with connectors that have solder built into them?
-- Erik Kauppi


Subject: Re: another day at the races...
From: David Dodge <drp123@MINDSPRING.COM>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 23:30:41 -0500

Dick Malsbury wrote:
>Excuse my ignorance, but does the clock start when the light says go or
>when the bike moves or what. Never been on a 1/4 mile track.

>Could you explain the whole process. Staging lights, redlight; I've
>heard the words but don't know what they mean.

Let me try to give the start-to-finish Readers Digest version of the

First we have the staging beams. These are two lights shooting across the
starting line called Pre-Stage and Staged. As you roll to the starting
line, your front wheel will interupt the Pre-Stage beam. As you continue
roll forward another 6-8" (depending on tire dia. and radial thickness),
the front wheel will interupt the second Staged beam. When both the
Pre-Stage and Staged lights on the Christmas Tree (starting lights) are
lit, the front wheel is interupting both beams meaning you are in the
proper location on the starting line, and the tree can be activated. On a
more technical note, there is also something called roll-out. This is the
amount of forward movement (10-12") the bike can roll, still keeping both
beams interupted.

Most tracks use a Pro-Light or a Full-Tree start. The Pro-Light is timed
flash all yellows, then green in .4 of a second. On a Full-Tree, each of
the yellow lights (3) is timed to light at .5 second intervals to green.
your bike rolls forward or begins movement before the green light, your
will get a foul or Red-Light start. This means that the Pre-Stage beam is
uncovered too early and you automatically lose. The trick is to launch
bike as close to green as possible without red-lighting. This is called
reaction time, which means the reaction timers start timing from the last
yellow to the time the front wheel uncovers the Pre-Staged beam. A
reaction time is .500 second. Some timing systems subtract the first .500
second (from last yellow) and give you only your reaction time from full
green. At any rate, the timers for your lane do not begin until your
wheel rolls forward, un-covering the Pre-Stage beam.
An excellent reaction time would be .500 (.000) to .540 (.040), good
be .550 (.050) to .590 (.090), and you need practice if your reaction
are .600 (.100) or worse. Example: you cut a .590 light and your opponent
cuts a .540 light, this means that your opponent has a .05 advantage
equals about two bike lengths at the end of the track if you are running
second bikes. If it is a heads up race you would need to run a 10.45 to
10.50 to run even with him at the end, or a 10.44 to beat him.

As you proceed down track there are beams located at 60', 330', 1/8
1000', and 1/4 mile. When your front wheel first breaks these beams, a
for that interval is recorded. MPH is calculated by the timers as time
cover a measured distance. On 1/8 mile tracks, the MPH clock starts at
before the finish line and stops at the finsh line. On 1/4 mile tracks,
MPH clocks start at 100' before the finsh line and stop 100' past the
finish line. On 1/4 mile tracks you would not want to shut off right at
finish line because your MPH would be slower. Instead, "run it out the
door" to the last MPH clock beam for a true MPH reading.

These are just some of the basics. There are many more stratagies that
be used when racing. Plus the actual riding of the motorcycle to be a
consistent winner.

Subject: Re: Backfire.
From: David Ryder <>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 21:14:59 -0500

On 15 Jan 99, at 20:12, Anthony Osborne wrote:

> David, I have a hard time believing that you, of all people, have never
> done that.

*Smile* I'll take this as the implied comment I'm sure it was, Oz.
No, I've never done this. I've ridden with many a notable list
personage over the years, and learned many things:

>From James Stoehr I learned that when your riding partner says,
"You first, I'll follow," he *really* means, "Yes, I do believe we
*could* get around this inconveniently closed bridge by riding our
motorcycles over that 3-ft. wide pedestrian walkway. And, if there
happens to be a cop on the other side who sees the entire thing, I'll
stay back in the woodline and see what happens to you."

>From Richard Wainright I learned that there's really no limit to how
much you can annoy your neighbors without being lynched.

>From Carl Custer I learned you can *never* go to far. But if you do,
there's a dumpster somewhere that holds the solution to your

>From Ron Rosensweet I learned that going down hurts a LOT more
the second day.

>From Tony Donisi I learned that brake calipers look really ugly
when they're chromed.

>From John Bock I learned that money can't buy everything, but
trying sure looks like a lot of fun.

>From Jack Hunt I learned that if you run twisties all the way to the
top of the Smokies, in the middle of the night, with a group of
Sabmaggots, Tennessee's not so hard to take after all.

>From Lee Gerkhe I learned that, if you're gonna go down for the first
time in your 10-year riding career, make sure you've *just* started
wearing protective gear the month before.

>From Yarema I learned that, just because those 18-wheelers
outweigh you by a factor of 200, that's no reason to let them
intimidate you.

>From Jeremy I learned that stubbornness and a really strong neck
can substitute for a windshield.
>From Harvey Hexnut I learned that stubbornness and a strong neck
are not a good substitute for a windshield if you like to ride with
your visor open in an area populated by bees.

>From Mike Stewart I learned that people really *do* chew tobacco
above the Mason/Dixon line.

>From Katherine Stewart I learned that turn signals and mirrors
make really bad choices for grasping points to pick up your fallen

>From Dan Jones I learned that there are apparently people who find
even an Econo-Lodge to be too expensive on a rainy night.

>From Bob Peloquin I learned that there's nothing sweeter than the
sound of someone *else's* bike falling over in a parking lot.

>From Milt Oberman I learned that a cute dog, cool motorcycle, and
a career as an actor STILL can't get you laid in most of the lower

>From Russell Stephan I learned that those admonishments not to
put anything in your ear farther than you can see are total bullshit.

And last, from Phil Ross I learned that no matter how much you
annoy people, ownership of a Sabmag almost always guarantees
you a free meal when you drop in on a listmember.

But no one ever taught me how to make my bike backfire.


Subject: Re: Paint Codes
From: ??michael <juriga@IDT.NET>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 20:22:23 +0000

Paint codes used on bikes by Model and by each year:

Year    Code            Color name as it appears in parts fische

v30 Magna
84      NH1Z            Black-Z
          R131CU        Candy Andromeda Red
85      NH1Z            Black-Z
          R114CU        Candy Wineberry-U

v45 Magna & 700 Magna
82      NH1              Black
          R115CU        Candy Maroon
          R118CU        Candy Imperial Blue
83      NH1Z            Black-Z
          R115CU       Candy Maroon
84      NH1Z           Black-Z
          R131CU       Candy Andromeda Red
85      NH1Z           Black-Z
          R130CU       Candy Scorpio Red
86      NH1Z           Black-Z
          R101CU       Candy Glory Red
87      PB161CU     Candy Wave Blue-U
          R107CU       Candy Bourgogne Red

*Note: codes for '88 and new 750 Magna's missing

v65 Magna
83      PB123PA      Pearl Siren Blue-A
          R115CU        Candy Maroon
84      NH1Z            Black-Z
          R131CU        Candy Andromeda Red
85      NH1Z            Black-Z
          R137PA        Pearl Vintage Red
86      NH1Z           Black-Z
          R101CU       Candy Glory Red

v45 Sabre & 700 Sabre
82      NH1            Black
          R107CU      Candy Bourgogne Red
83      NH1Z          Black-Z
          R114CU      Candy Wineberry-U
84      NH1            Black (this is the only paint code given for
                                        ordering a new fuel tank)
                                        color schemes offered:
         NH1K          Black/Pleiades Silver Metallic/Candy Red
                                        accent stripe (stickers)
         NH1E          Black/Canopus Red Metallic (brownish)/Light Silver
                                        accent stripe (stickers)

85    NH1             Black (this is the only paint code given for
                                        ordering a new fuel tank)
                    color schemes offered according to fische:
                    Black/Candy Red stripe (stickers)
                    Black/Candy blue stripe (stickers)

**Note: Pleiades Silver Metallic and Canopus Red Metallic are mentioned
by name, but no codes are given. Information is confusing.

v65 Sabre
84      NH1         Black (this is the only paint code given for
                                        ordering a new fuel tank)
                    color schemes offered according to fische:

          NH1E      Black/Silver/Red accent stripes (stickers)
          NH1K      Black/Red/Silver accent stripes (stickers)
85        NH1       Black (this is the only paint code given for
                                        ordering a new fuel tank)
                    color schemes offered according to fische:
          NH1K      Black/Silver/Red accent stripes (stickers)
          NH1H      Black/Silver/Blue accent stripes (stickers)

**Note: I believe that the Silver used for all is "Pleiades Silver" (no
code listed) and the red listed for 84's color scheme NH1K is the same
Canopus Red used on the 84 700 Sabre with the same color scheme code.
Little information is given in the Parts Fische for all Sabre models.
Information is confusing.

v45 Interceptor & 700 Interceptor
83      no code         White (no code given, possibly
                                        NH138 - "Shasta white")
        PB127CU         Candy Aleutian Blue (w/ Red accent stripe
        R107CU          Candy Bourgone Red (w/ Blue accent stripe
84      no code         White (no code given, possibly
                                        NH138 - "Shasta white")
        PB127CU         Candy Aleutian Blue (w/ Red accent stripe
        R107CU          Candy Bourgone Red (w/ Blue accent stripe
85      no code         White (no code given, possibly
                                        NH138 - "Shasta white")
        PB127CU         Candy Aleutian Blue (w/ Red accent stripe
        R124CU          Candy Alamoana Red (w/ Blue accent stripe

**Note: White was a major color element on all bikes. Colors were used
in the following schemes: White/Blue/red accent & White/Red/blue
accent. Information for the Interceptor 500 was not availible. Their
color schemes were similar so chances are their colors are identical for
the same years as the 700-750's.

84      NH138           Shasta White

**Note: Accent colors are made using stickers. No further information

85      R134H           Fighting Red
        NH134           no name given
86      R134H           Fighting Red
        NH134           no name given

**Note: Tank color ordering information only lists R134H. NH134 was only
listed in color chart in the begining of parts Fische with no name or
useage listed. Fairing body panels were hand laid fiberglass. Fairing
color was a colored gel coat actually part of the glass laying process.
Two domestic color schemes were availible. I've only seen the mostly red
version. There were also European only color schemes availble. I have no
further information. Try asking JoeyT, he has one and knows much more
about color schemes as he does a lot of body work and painting. His
email is


From: Cory Vokoun <cvokoun@PCIS.NET>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 21:28:02 -0600

Just learned of this web site.   In case you ever have the need!


You've flown halfway across the country to attend a friend's wedding.
You grab a rental car and are high-tailing it desperately to get to
the church on time. Suddenly, in your rearview mirror is that horrible
sight: the flashing lights of a police car, pulling you over for
speeding. You really don't think you were going that fast, but you've
never visited Kalamazoo before and don't have the slightest clue how
to find a good traffic lawyer to contest the ticket and save some
points on your insurance. No problem. Call up this site for a nearly
countrywide listing of lawyers, insurance agents, and--if need
be--bail bondsmen to help you out of the jam. Enter the county and
state in which you were issued the ticket, and detailed listings are
only a click away.
Returning to lurk mode.

Cory Vokoun
`86 Magna VF700


Subject: Service/Owners Manuals
From: Bob Sunley <rosunley@VIDEON.WAVE.CA>
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 00:28:13 -0600
Helm now have online ordering for all their publications    at

for Honda, Ford, Kia, Isuzu, Suzuki, GM and Subaru

no need to even phone the local dealer.

Bob Sunley


Subject: Attn: Race Fans
From: Kenneth Thompson <KenTmpsnmc@AOL.COM>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 21:01:42 EST

For Race Donks and Wannabees

Check out these sites for the latest almost live Daytona doins.

<Gasp!> An actual reporter at the track!

Lap times, finishing order, rider quotes. All the stuff that's printed
up nice and neat and available in the press room for any 'journalist'
to pick up and reword.

Couple of sound files of interviews. Race results. Maybe they'll do
their live update during the race again???

Looks like they're going to be updating the site right from the pits.

Ken T. from Ca.


Subject: Re: come one, come all, big money, big money
From: Uncle Milt <mrmilt@EARTHLINK.NET>
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 13:25:25 -0800

>On         Thu, 4 Mar 1999 23:29:18 EST, Jude Federspiel wrote:
>> collection of sabmaggots to secure a discount (5% even) at wing
>> things, a mail order company. The way it works is this:
>What do they sell? We don't ride "No Stinking Wings" ;-)
>- - - - -

They acutally sell a bunch of good stuff.   Check them out:



Subject: Re: Winter gods take a hint (I hope)
From: Carol and-or Ralph East <v65ton@YAHOO.COM>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 1999 08:08:09 -0800

---Jeff Gent wrote:
> Bob Peloquin wrote:
> >
> > I'm asking for opinions from other electronics types as the simplest
> > possible temp control I can think of would be to use an electronic
> > directional flasher to give me a 50% duty cycle for the low setting.
> > Since there's no transistors in-line it seems to me this would
give me a
> > pretty cheap pre-built off/low/high setup. Any guesses on future
> > problems, longevity, or other detrimental effects to this idea?
> In my usual style I can't remember his name to save my life, but one
> our very own made a very nice controller that I believe was available
> commercially at one point. It's a pulse width modulator driving a
> MOSFET controlling power to the various electrics. He had it in a
> project box mounted on the left bar with a small pot to control the
> pulse width and an LED to let you know when it was turned on. It
> clean, functional, and cheap.

I believe the unit your looking for was first suggested by our
electronics wizard Erik Kauppi. Bought two kits and made them up, and
am waiting for a weather break to test out - they do control the
"test" motor nicely though. Units do not come with a box.

Quoted from the catalog:
12V DC motor or lamp control kit. Will
control any 12V DC load up to 10 amps, uses pulse width modulation
to give 5% to 98% control range. Kit contains all parts and a
12v DC demo motor.

Price $15.95   Part # 4057-MD
Dimensions 3" x 2 3/8" x 1 3/4"

Marlin P Jones Co, 1-800-652-6733.

Ralph East


Subject: Replacing Heads and Cams
From: "Donisi, Tony" <donisit@AMP.COM>
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 09:48:09 -0500

Brian from Everett wrote of head-changing woes:

Brian, I am surprised at you! Replacing the heads and saying that there
no literature without first checking my site?? For Shame!!

First off, I just received the Dave-Dodge special ported and polished
What beauties! They were a little late, so my anticipation was building.
Boy, were they worth the wait! I opted for the 'works,' titanium
better valve springs, multi-angle valve job, and a 10% increase in
through the heads. This was accomplished through DD's flow testing, and
time will tell how this works on the bike!

The heads arrived with rockers already assembled, for ease of
Also, since the cam gears were slotted, DD was kind enough to install the
gears in a nominal' position so that I wouldn't have to guess.

The heads I sent to DD originally had slight scores in the cam journals.
This was obviously due to the previous owners 15,000 mile stint with the
stock head oil lines, since it sends unfiltered oil to the heads.

The heads I removed from TPM were almost perfect!   The cams were like
and the journals were untouched.

Anyway, I am currently installing the ported and polished heads and cams
TPM. So I am in the process of writing a photo how-to. It is in its
beginning stages, but tune your web browser to

For the beginning of the tutorial.
So Far I have:

Removed the cams, heads (see how easy!) using the Dave Dodge 'Pop goes
camshaft(tm)' method.
Cleaned the block (or Joel H did, anyway!)
Re-installed heads, cams (Watch out for those dowel pins!)

Now I am waiting to degree the cams

Well, I sort of lied. I went to install the New front ported and
head, and the dowel pins stuck in the old head! They would not budge.     I
tried wd-40, hot & cold, vise grips, and everything short of a nuclear
weapon to get those $#!&*% things out. I have reached the conclusion
the only way to remove these particular uncooperative dowels is to
completely destroy them! New ones are on the way!

BTW, I have to admire people who have chosen to change the heads without
removing the engine from the frame. Cleaning the mounting surface with
engine out is bad enough, but while it is in the frame?? I shudder at
thought!! Or better yet, Joel H is shuddering at the thought, since it
he who so kindly scraped the front head mounting surface last night!

There are a lot of little techniques and methods which make life a lot
easier. As the project progress, I will include them all! Feel free to
contact me offlist with any specific questions!

Tony Donisi


Subject: Ketchin' up
From: "Custer, Carl" <Carl.Custer@USDA.GOV>
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 12:31:51 -0500

I'm on digest and have been away so:
Clutch bleeding:
Monsters pigtail.
SME 4.0:
'Stich fitting:
Temperature control

Clutch bleeding:
According to the local wally mart, they no longer carry the Mighty Vac.
On installing Lagniappe's engine in Rocin, curtis and I used the
Attached 1/8 clear plastic hose to the nipple clutch slave,
cracked the nipple open, I "Monica'ed" the hose while curtis kept the
filled. Being a pointy headed bureaucrat, I overdid it and was pulling
in tiny
bubbles through the threads. curtis wiped a thick grease seal on the
outside of the
nipple threads, another pull, and that was that. No pumping the handle
the wee hours of the night.

Perch Monsters pigtail.
Bob P grumbled, "I installed a headphone jack on my helmet and I can't
to find one that lasts long enough to make it worthwhile. They're always
breaking or getting dirty so I get intermittent contact.   Then Bob P
counseled, "If any of you are thinking of doing this, I'd recommend not
wasting the effort and just letting the Bass Monster's pigtail hang out
the helmet."

I let mine hang and they worked well, so long as I took the few seconds
hold both parts when unhooking. But, after several nonsupported
disconnects, one of the wires "kinda separated" inside the insulator. If
you wiggled it just right It'd reconnect.
If you let it dangle, I recommend either:
Resolve to always hold the helmet side when disconnecting or
Attach the helmet side to the helmet, maybe with a small U bolt or epoxy.

SME 4.0:
Bob P proposed, "Joey, ??michael and I are planning on riding to SME 4.0
this June... Any other takers riding down with 3 crazy sportbike riders?"
Me! You're welcome to use Bethesda as a staging area, roll in Thursday
afternoon-night. Roll out early Friday morning to beat the @#$% DC
I've promised first dibs on beds to ZimBob, ZimJeff, & Bob P. But, we've
got couches and floor space.
Wainwright just confirmed "him too (bed space)" (He'll likely trailer)
And we can arrange other accommodations.

'Stich fitting:
Re Hiler's tale . . .
I think the 'Stich fitting table assumes you exaggerate your height and
neither a butt nor balls. I had to return the short for a regular - and
an "Ellipse" ($40) ;^( and later add 2" to the thigh length ($50) because
pain from knee pressure. Plus the cost of shipping. But -- other than
sizing, the suit and service has been great.

Temperature control:
Bob P, "I'm asking . . . the simplest . . .   temp control . . .   an
electronic directional flasher to give me a 50% duty cycle for the low.
(who) made a very nice controller that . . . looked clean, functional,
East replied, " . .. first suggested by . .. Kauppi.
Bought two kits and made them up, and am waiting for a weather break to
out - they do control the "test" motor nicely though. Units do not come
with a box. Quoted from the catalog:
12V DC motor or lamp control kit. Will control any 12V DC load up to 10
amps, uses pulse width modulation to give 5% to 98% control range. Kit
contains all parts and a 12v DC demo motor. Price $15.95   Part # 4057-MD
Marlin P Jones Co, 1-800-652-6733"

(found at:)

Jealous of the babe magnet quality of a Hardly? See:

UK site for shade tree mechanics.e.g. Tune your "carbies":

Carl in Bethesda doubting that it was a good idea to ride in this morning


Subject: Gallery
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 19:00:21 -0800


    Pay a visit to the gallery. Updates/new pics on Sabre,Magna, and
Cop pages, plus a few of the new member at:

    I still have a few 'unclaimed' pics, view & stake your claim at:

    Ryde on.

Ron Erhardt

Subject: Re: Instruction Manual for V65 Sabre Hondaline Fairing
From: Greg and/or Lynn <nyamuk@ENTERACT.COM>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 10:05:12 -0600

On Thu, 18 Mar 1999, Any Company wrote:

> can anyone give me step by step directions on installing the stock
> hondaline fairing and windshield assembly on a 84 V65sabre? the
> original owner i bought it from gave me all the parts in a bucket and
> assured me everything was there if i ever wanted to put it back on the
> bike. I do but don't have a clue where to even

Send me a mailing address and I'll send you a copy of the "Instruction
Manual Fairing Kit For V65 Sabre (VF1100S)". It's about 16 pages and has
very detailed info as well as a parts list.

BTW... this offer is extended to anyone else on the list who needs a
I'll pick up the tab for postage for US list members. Just buy me a beer
if we ever meet at a SabMag event and we'll call it even. :-) For
international folks... maybe I'll need a few $$$. Let me know.



Subject: Re: and further Dear Dave...
From: David Dodge <drp123@MINDSPRING.COM>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 23:50:53 -0500

Joey T. wrote:

>Dear Dave,
>I wanted to ask on list, cuz I think people might want to know, and you
>spam very well, what else can we get from you? IOW, I will be having you
>do my tranny. Can I also buy all off the gaskets/seals from you? How
>clutch tools, fork seals, etc? I for one would rather buy from you than
>else. So I am asking, please tell me, whatcha got down there we can buy

OEM Parts
Okay check this out. I stock and sell OEM seals, gaskets, bearings,
cam chain tensioners, ring sets, oil filters, and any other motor parts
the V45 Sabre/Magna, V65 Sabre/Magna, V45 Interceptor and VF1000. All at
discount prices. I have a complete set of special tools for my own use,
these tolls are a low mark up item for the dealer, so they usually jack
price for resale.

Performance Parts
The following performance parts are currently available and mostly in
stock: Oil mod kits, high compression pistons, 5 Stages of Cams, racing
valve springs, titanium retainers, nickel bronze valve guides, viton
seals, performance connecting rods, Kevlar clutch kits, nitrous oxide
performance ignition coils, complete selection of braided hose and

Machine Shop Services
I offer the following machine work: Head porting, competition valve jobs,
V-4 bore and hone, crank set-up and balancing, gearbox undercutting,
complete engine building and blueprinting, stroker crank and rod kits,
rear-end set-up and ratio changes.

Drag Racing Stuff
Wheelie bar and strut kits, shift lights, wheel conversions for drag
slicks, air shifters, tether kill switches, hydraulic clutch release,
chassis mods and drag race (only) header systems.

New Stuff
Three versions of carb kits to begin testing, racing ignition, billit
hub to lace a spoke 18" rear wheel, s.s. brake line kits (been working on
this for a while, but just not enough interest), late model Magna engine
parts (Jeremy MGowan's soon to be Yellow Thunder), and once I get just a
little more room some performance engine packages for the Honda V-Twin.

>Are you having Milt do your catalog?

No, but it might get done if someone else was doing it. Thanks to the
efforts of Tony Donisi, Jeremy McGowan, and Ozzie I am getting some
Note to self: Finish the #$@% catalog. I have mentioned this before, that
actually produce catalogs for other companies. Problem is the paying
customers come first, and that side of the business has doubled to 12
customers that I do catalogs for, ranging in size from 24 to 200 pages,
plus all of their ad and some trade show and promo work. My plans for the
future include getting into a building and hiring some full-time people
both catalog production and more Honda performance parts R & D/Sales and
Service. Hopefully all of this Y2K crap won't kill the momentum of the

>BTW, I made a big bore kit for ??michaels V65. All you need is the
rods >and pistons from a 7.4 litre Chebby and a big fookin hammer. I can
sell the >plans to ya, some minor details still need to be ironed

Ingenuity at work, I'm proud to be a Maggot.

Dave Dodge


Subject: M/C Safety Research Project -- Long
From: Ron Rosensweet <70403.2700@COMPUSERVE.COM>
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 08:24:25 -0500

Ladies and Gentlemen,

I'm taking up some of your time to share a note I took off the HSTA list
yesterday. This guy did a project in graduate school that was a study of
how m/c safety is correlated with state population, helmet laws, etc.
A little mundane compared with our usual stuff but hope some of you find
of interest. Yes, I did ask him if it was OK to copy to our list and got
his approval.

<begin forwarded material>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 00:45:24 -0600
From: Garth P Haubner <>
Subject: Research
Message-ID: <>

A few months back, I used this forum to ask for assistance with a
research project I was working on. It was, in essence, an exit project
for a statistical methods course I was taking, counted for about 2/3 of
our total grade for the course, and I figured to have a lot more fun with
it (that is SOME, as opposed to NONE) if it involved something of genuine
interest to me.

That would be motorcycles.

Long story short, the number crunching involved motorcycle fatalities
nationwide for the calendar year 1996, broken down by state for purpose
of analysis. Independent variables (state level) included helmet laws,
rider training, mandated eyewear - daytime headlight - vehicle inspection
laws, as well a few demographic variables such as population, population
density, ownership penetration, as so on.

Please understand that you are dealing with 1st year graduate student
level work here - the research design and all techniques used are very
definitely appropriate (that was the whole idea behind the course), but
the depth of analysis is not such that I'll be presenting this paper in a
professional forum any time soon. Nevertheless, many of you expressed an
interest, and I thought the results might provide a little food for

The Condensed Version:

-- States with more people and more motorcycles have (surprise!)
correspondingly higher motorcycle fatalities. Fatality rates (per
capita), however, tend to be a tad lower in these states.

-- Said states with more people and more motorcycles (and more
fatalities) tend to be the ones that have imposed mandatory helmet laws.
Is this a visibility issue?

-- Motorcycle ownership penetration (per capita) tends to be greater in
less populous states. Generally, the states with greater ownership
penetration tend to be 1) less likely to have mandatory helmet laws, and
2) more likely to have rider training available. Strength in numbers?
Penetration in and of itself, however, does nothing to reduce fatality
rates - having proportionately more of us on the road (thereby
heightening the awareness factor of the cagers, assuming they had any
awareness to heighten) does not help. Damn.

-- Among the demographic variables examined were income level, % college
grads (B.A. or higher), and high school drop-out ratios.   Drum roll
please.............on average, income and college grads were positively
correlated with penetration, negatively correlated with fatalities, while
drop-out ratio was just the opposite. Proportionately more of us live in
areas with more money, more smarts, and fewer delinquents than
conventional wisdom would have it, and if you really want to ride a
motorcycle - study hard, stay in school, go to college and make more
money. You'll be safer in the long run.

-- Of all the variables that directly affect the rider - eye protection,
headlight use, etc. -only helmet use and rider training had any
statistical significance. Mandatory helmet laws were responsible for 1.8
fewer deaths per 10,000 motorcycle vehicle population, while rider
training came in with a 1.3 reduction. A couple things to bear in mind:
1) these numbers may seem small, but they are significant, and to a
genuine, dyed-in-the-wool Safety Nazi saving an extra two people per
10,000 is a goal most worthy, and 2) Rider training programs in this
country are still in their relative infancy - in 1996, only four (yes,
four) states had mandatory rider training for all prospective riders.
Many others offer partial programs for younger or neophyte riders, but a
full 27 states had no state-sanctioned rider training whatsoever. It is
interesting to speculate (which I quite pointedly did) how much more
impactful the rider training variable would be if we had something
approximating a national rider training program.

My prof thinks I'm a couple aces shy of a full deck (anybody that rides a
motorcycle, dontcha know), but she liked the project, I passed the
course, they decided to keep me in the program, end nau i are awn my wey
too beekuming a hiley edikated pirsun. Just goes to show you what two
wheels in the right place at the right time can do.

To all of you who answered my plea for help - my heartfelt thanks.   Many
suggestions that were eventually discarded led me down a path that I
might not have taken otherwise, with good results. I suspected this list
would be a productive place to go in search of, and I wasn't

As for my professor - she still thinks motorcyclists are all a little
crazy, but she no longer doubts our intelligence. Just our judgment.

I can live with that.


<end forwarded material>

Ron in Deerfield IL
'86 V65 Magna


Subject: Re: The Mysterious "Lock Nut Wrench"
From: Cliff Koch <ckoch1@EMAIL.MOT.COM>
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 10:18:36 -0600

Michael White wrote:
> Alright, I've had just about enough of Honda's practical jokes on
> owners. Why is it that the V45 Sabre Swingarm has to be held on by a
> special
> "Lock nut" that, of course, requires a special "Lock Nut Wrench" for
> removal?
> Oh, all right, never mind. I know that I need to just accept Soichiro
> Honda's wisdom and set about on my great quest to find a Lock Nut
> So what are the alternatives (i.e., brilliant ideas) (if any) to the
> infamous Honda part no. 07908-4690001? Do I really have to go to my
>Honda Dealer and ask him to order one? Or is there a shade-tree
>mechanic's alternative?

  Check around with the local dealers first. Sometimes they'll loan or
these tools out. As is pretty normal with me, being both cheap _and_
impatient _and_ it being a Sunday, I made mine.

  I took a [relatively] cheap 1 1/8" 12 point socket, which was the right
diameter, and cut the tabs into it. Here's the quick explanation of how:

  I held the socket up to the lock nut and marked the locations of where
  the tabs should be on the socket with a fine marker. I lined the tab
  locations up so outer point on the socket would line up with the middle
  of the tab to make the overall tab thinner for better clearancing
  the swingarm bolt (see picture below).

  I put a 1" cutoff wheel in a dremel and put the dremel in a dremel
  press stand. I made a measurement of the depth of the recess in the
  locknut and set the dremel height so it would cut slightly farther down
  on the socket. I then moved the socket around the cutoff wheel and cut
  four slots that are parallel with the edge.

     I then cut down the length of the socket at the previously made marks
     join up with the slots I cut, leaving 4 tabs sticking out.

     I then checked the socket against the locking ring, fine tuned the tab
     edges by hand so they all engagned at the same time, and under cut them
     a bit so they'd tend to grab the lock ring recesses rather than push
     their way out.

The finished product can be seen at:

  I'd say it probably took about an hour to make. I've been meaning to
together a web page describing this better pictorially, but haven't found
enough "tuit's" yet.



Subject: Re: oil mod, was: Fiche question
From: David Dodge <drp123@MINDSPRING.COM>
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 02:05:47 -0500

Uncle Milt wrote:
>Real question: What does "blueprinted" mean in relation to MC parts and

Blueprinting in automotive and motorcycle engines is the practice of
precisely measuring and assembling every single part and assembly in an
engine. Blueprint specs are determined by wear patterns established by an
individual motor or style of motor, as all motors have particular set-ups
that allow them to perform the best. The factory does not "hand-assemble"
motors, so break-in is critical to ensure that surfaces are not damaged
scuffed. Blueprinting also includes the deburring and casting flash

Examples: A new V65 engine factory assembled has crank main bearing
clearances as tight as .00075" and as loose as .00175". Blueprinting
have ALL of these clearances set to .0015", which has shown to provide
initial wear, oil pressure, and long term performance. In the case of an
engine rebuild, you might see bearing and journal wear and a clearance of
.002". So the blueprinting would mean that the crank journal and cases
measured and/or plastiguaged to select the bearing sizes necessary to set
them up to .0015".
Look at a stock cylinder head port next time you have your carbs off. You
will see high and low spots, flash, burrs, sharp edges and the seats do
blend or match the port. Blueprinting the heads would require blending,
smoothing and matching these areas to acheive a balanced flow between all
of the ports.
Dave Dodge


Subject: Re: Spark Question
From: Art Reitsma <areitsma@UNISERVE.COM>
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:29:40 -0700

At 07:51 PM 04/26/1999 -0700, RONALD W ERHARDT wrote:
>From: harold <halmc@TALSTAR.COM>
>>I understand what you say, but I wonder if it squares with this: if
>>two plug gaps are actually in series,
>    Now hold it just a second here. It is not possible that the plugs
>in *series*, since both have their 'common' terminal connected firmly
>to ground (the cylinder head). They may well be in parallel, but in any
>case the calcs are different.

Ahhh, but if the circuit uses the ground/head as a conductor, it is still
in series. Try looking at this:

head       plug      coil secondary       plug       head
                     |coil primary|
                     |            |

The head is simply a conductor in the circuit from the coil
to one plug to the other plug and back to the coil. In order
to be in parallel, the center of the secondary would have to
be grounded by a center tap.

>    There is more-or-less a fixed amount of total energy available, that
>coming from the coil. If, in fact, there is less resistance in the
>that is not under pressure, then most of the current flows there.

Again, it's in series, so the current in both plug gaps will be the same.
However the power of the spark will vary directly with the voltage across
the gap. Say, .1 amps at 700 volts (somebody else's calculation) = 70
while the other plug, under pressure, somebody again guessed, at
20,000 volts times .1 amps gives 2000 watts! This is real power, similar
to, but minuscule compared to, the huge power generated by a lightning



Subject: Fanstats, etc.
From: Ron Denton <rdenton@WEBZONE.NET>
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 08:31:13 -0500

After reading the FAQs I decided that the fanstat seemed like a quick mod
to help the cooling until I learned more about this machine and bikes in
general. To make a long story shorter, turns out that the fanstat for an
87-91 Acura Integra fits perfectly. The electrical and mounting
connections are identical. This part from the local auto supply was about
$11.00. The change, along with a thorough flush and refill of the cooling
system, dropped my average running temp by one block of the temp gauge.

>From one newbie to others, when reading the FAQs and asking questions to
the group, remember that the info is not necessarily all inclusive, and
often comes at the expense of numerous failures that cost both time and
money. People tend to stop experimenting when they find a suitable
solution. Just because one thing or another is recommended, doesn't mean
that other solutions aren't out there as well. Also, after doing a good
bit of trial-n-terror with photo processes and ammo reloading, I've come
to really appreciate those few who took the time and effort to record
their successes as well as failures, and then share them with others.

<<reengaging lurk mode>>

Ron Denton


Subject: New Honda V4 book!
From: "James K. Stoehr" <jstoehr@CABLEONE.NET>
Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 11:09:09 -0700

In the recent issue of Motorcyclist (7/99), page 127, there is a writeup
for a new hardbound book entitled "Honda's V-FORCE, The four-stroke V4s
road and track." Here's the description...

"Oooooo, you'll be wantin' this one, no matter what bike you ride.
Ryder's book is the full story of Big Red's V-four machines, from the
pistoned NR500 to the VFR800 Interceptor. Hardbound, 160 pages, the book
is packed with photos and tech info: there's even a chapter detailing
"great camshaft crisis" of the mid-80's. At your local bookstore or
contact Haynes publishing 011-44-196-344-0635 or email"

OR, you can do what I did, and head over to,
specifically to

The book is $23.96 plus $3.95 for shipping.   Sounds like a must-have for
V4 fanatics!

James K. Stoehr


Subject: Re: Intermittent oil light.. again with the on/off thing...
From: David Dodge <drp123@MINDSPRING.COM>
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 00:21:00 -0400

Cliff Koch wrote:
> When you block off the rear transmission tap, the pressure in that
>will go up and overall oil flow to the transmission should go up as
>limited by metering orifices.

The two stages of the pump are passages. The high and low pressure stages
are determined by the size of the passages, and how they exit the pump.
When you block the stock top-end take-off there is increased pressure,
also increased volume that is not passed to the trans. This increased
volume creates increased pressure to the main galley thru the stage 1
passage because it cannot exit to the heads thru the trans take-off.

>Now you tap directly into the filtered supply that goes to the mains to
>supply oil to the heads. The heads are receiving more oil and more
>This oil has to come from somewhere. To me, what you seem to be saying
>transmission, heads, and mains are all receiving increased pressure and
>That just doesn't add up to me. The oil pump is a positive displacement
>device whose output is only affected by "reverse bleed" around the
>of the rotors, which is proportional to the differential pressure
>inlet and outlet. I don't see how pressure to the mains can possibly go
up or
>even stay the same with an oil mod. The increased flow to the heads has
>come from _somewhere_.

As explained above, increased volume from blocking the stock trans take-
provides increased pressure because it has no other exit point in the oil
system to escape. This is most noticable below 1500 RPM. As a rule of
there should be at least 12lbs of oil pressure for each 1000 RPM. Large
mod lines tend to provide 10 lbs. per 1000 RPM, and smaller metered lines
provide 12 lbs. per 1000.
So my point here is would you rather have 10 lbs. (or less) of oil
to the mains and heads at idle, or 12 lbs. (or more) at idle?

>These days I'm more into EFI Fords. I'm doing some work on my Mustang
>should put the power at 400+ RWHP on a daily driven, very ordinary
>very ordinary sounding, smooth driving car with a torque curve you could
>a house under...

Have you ever heard of a company named Raceparts Distribution? They are
catalog customer of mine and one of the largest Ford Motorsport parts

>One of these days I _will_ have an ignition prototype...

Someone sure needs to do this!

Dave Dodge - DRP


Subject: ON My Web Page for Downloading NOW! Re:    RADAR Book Finished!!
From: "F. Sam Woodson" <v65animal@EXCITE.COM>
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 12:23:09 PDT
On          Wed, 23 Jun 1999 14:41:48 EDT, Jeremy McGowan wrote:

> Well, I have completed the "Modified" version of the US Department of
> Transportation/National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Basic
> Training Program in RADAR Speed that's a
> If anyone could host this file on their web site I would greatly
> it. I am going to eventually put it on the "Project Taxi" site, but I
> have the time right now.

     It's up on my 2nd page:

 Just click on the RADAR Document link

Thanks Jeremy!

- - - - -
F. Sam Woodson


Subject: More on RADAR
From: Kevin Draz <kevind@PACIFIER.COM>
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 1999 23:04:12 -0700

Jeremy's excellent reference on police traffic RADAR use and
procedures got me interested in more information on all aspects of
RADAR and traffic-enforcement techniques. So I did a bit of surfing,
and came up with...

There's more data here than you can shake a stick at. Much of it is
extremely technical, with lots of engineering 3D plots of energies
and complex mathematics on how the science works of a traffic RADAR

But chapter 7 contains some useful information on how one might
defend oneself in court against a speed violation, and overall, it's
just interesting reading for a geek.



Subject: Everything you ever wanted to know about headlight modulators..
From: Christopher Leach <strider@IONET.NET>
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 10:16:54 -0500


While on a search for some info requested by a CBR listmember I stumbled
across the following on the DOT website (Hey, I'm at work. You wouldn't
htink I'd actually brave 500 page governmental regulations for free would
you? :P). I recall that there was some talk awhile back about the
legality of headlight modulators. So here's the bible according to the
DOT and which (I'm assuming) would supercede any state regulation. After
tale of riders being held up by overzealous and ignorant LEOs, one might
carry a copy of this outlining the rules. Anyway, enjoy ;)

[Code of Federal Regulations]
[Title 49, Volume 5, Parts 400 to 999]
[Revised as of October 1, 1998]
>From the U.S. Government Printing Office via GPO Access
[CITE: 49CFR571.108]

[Page 231-303]

                          TITLE 49--TRANSPORTATION

                              OF TRANSPORTATION


               Subpart B--Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards

Sec. 571.108    Standard No. 108; Lamps, reflective devices, and associated

S5.5.10 The wiring requirements for lighting equipment in use are:
    (a) Turn signal lamps, hazard warning signal lamps, and school bus
warning lamps shall be wired to flash;
    (b) Headlamps and side marker lamps may be wired to flash for
signaling purposes;
    (c) A motorcycle headlamp may be wired to allow either its upper
beam or its lower beam, but not both, to modulate from a higher
intensity to a lower intensity in accordance with section S5.6;
    (d) All other lamps shall be wired to be steady-burning.

[Ed.] Odd... under S5.6 it simply lists [Reserved]

[Ed.] Ah, here we go:

S7.9.4 Motorcycle headlamp modulation system.
    S7.9.4.1 A headlamp on a motorcycle may be wired to modulate either
the upper beam or the lower beam from its maximum intensity to a lesser
intensity, provided that:
    (a) The rate of modulation shall be 240 <plus-minus> 40 cycles per
    (b) The headlamp shall be operated at maximum power for 50 to 70
percent of each cycle.
    (c) The lowest intensity at any test point shall be not less than 17
percent of the maximum intensity measured at the same point.
    (d) The modulator switch shall be wired in the power lead of the
beam filament being modulated and not in the ground side of the circuit.
    (e) Means shall be provided so that both the lower beam and upper
beam remain operable in the event of a modulator failure.
    (f) The system shall include a sensor mounted with the axis of its
sensing element perpendicular to a horizontal plane. Headlamp modulation
shall cease whenever the level of light emitted by a tungsten filament
light operating at 3000 deg. Kelvin is either less than 270 lux (25
foot-candles) of direct light for upward pointing sensors or less than
60 lux (5.6 foot-candles) of reflected light for downward pointing
sensors. The light is measured by a silicon cell type light meter that
is located at the sensor and pointing in the same direction as the
sensor. A Kodak Gray Card (Kodak R-27) is placed at ground level to
simulate the road surface in testing downward pointing sensors.
    (g) When tested in accordance with the test profile shown in Figure
9, the voltage drop across the modulator when the lamp is on at all test
conditions for 12 volt systems and 6
volt systems shall not be greater than .45 volt. The modulator shall
meet all the provisions of the standard after completion of the test
profile shown in Figure 9.
    (h) Means shall be provided so that both the lower and upper beam
function at design voltage when the headlamp control switch is in either
the lower or upper beam position when the modulator is off.
    S7.9.4.2(a) Each motorcycle headlamp modulator not intended as
original equipment, or its container, shall be labeled with the maximum
wattage, and the minimum wattage appropriate for its use. Additionally,
each such modulator shall comply with S7.9.4.1 (a) through (g) when
connected to a headlamp of the maximum rated power and a headlamp of the
minimum rated power, and shall provide means so that the modulated beam
functions at design voltage when the modulator is off.
    (b) Instructions, with a diagram, shall be provided for mounting the
light sensor including location on the motorcycle, distance above the
road surface, and orientation with respect to the light.

Christopher Leach


Subject: Re: Gps and other shite
From: michael walt <yooperbikemike@YAHOO.COM>
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 1999 13:02:55 -0700

 Discount Honda, AKA Honda of Riverhead, 1-800-955-2925
Michael Walt COP #005


Subject: Florida Parts......
From: Khris Rantz <khrisr@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 1999 15:11:56 PDT

   To all those that are interested.....
Went to Florida on vacation, and stopped by the Ironhorse shop in Tampa.
owner has a few bikes and parts, that he is wanting to get rid of. I got
very basic list from when I went to his shop....
   ---side covers for a V65 Magna
       various side covers, some with tabs and some without
       has a top end from a V65
       bottom end of a V65,(weather beaten)
       half a dozen steering heads and forks
       an 82 or 83 Sabre V45 tailsection
       a box full of turn signals and stems, various sizes
       4 sets of carbs, both V45 and V65(very good shape)
       a few Magna tanks, no Sabre tanks(no Honda badges either!)
       a Sabre rear monoshock and swingarm(no preset type)
       a V65 Magna that is complete, but not running
       a V45 and V30 that are parts bikes
       no Hondaline fairings, but some small parts(mirrors, etc.)
   Scott Cameron is the guys name. He has a vast amount of bikes, but
BSA's, Ariel's, and Beemer's. Said that he is willing to part out the
or if some guys want to buy the whole mess of it. He also has some Wing
stuff, lots of Wing fairings, and hardbags.
Here is his number:
   He is right by the Tampa airport, if anyone wants to fly in.
I went looking for the rear monoshock, but wasn't the same as mine.
Hope someone is interested.


Subject: Re: 1/8th to 1/4 mile times/ Big August Bash
From: David Dodge <drp123@MINDSPRING.COM>
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 1999 08:36:57 -0400

Joey T wrote:
>Sooo, has anyone found a way to figure out 1/4 mile times based on 1/8th
>times. I know that it isn't a constant, you cannot just double it. ( I
>if the Hinkle bike was only running 14's with me on it, I am gonna hang
up my

Here is the basic conversion I use, and most times are within 1%. But
variables can include gearing, weight, and how the bike moves through the

Calculate 1/4 mile from 1/8 mile:    1/8 mile (7.14) x 1.54 = 10.99

Calculate 1/8 mile from 1/4 mile:    1/4 mile (10.99) x .65 = 7.14

Dave Dodge


Subject: Re: Phone No.
From: Bob Zimmerman <>
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 16:11:09 +0500

Mark M said (off list)

> Zimbob - I think there may be 2 "Discount Honda"s in NY. I've been
dealing w/
> one on Long Island; got their # from the FAQ: (800) 669-2275. However,
> there's another one with a web site:

>and the
> following #s: (800) 955-2925; FAX (800) 258-7195. Not sure if it's in
NY; the
> web site lists no address. There's a "Honda of Riverhead" (Maps On Us
> Riverhead to be on Long Island) I've heard people mention; is this the
one I'm
> dealing with? I'm waiting for my current order to arrive to see the
> and/or phone numbers on the invoice to confirm or deny this. Searching
> directly for that name, I can only find a local (non-800) number.
> Hope this has helped and not confused you more.

        Discount Honda isn't Discount Honda, it's Honda of Riverhead
(Long Island,

          They used to be Carl's Honda and then K & R Honda.

          Phone 800-955-2925   fax 800-258-7195

        If there is really someone who calls      themselves Discount Honda,
this ain't
(southern talk) them.

        Just to help though their web site is
there except their phone #'s for when I forget again.
        Seems I ordered from them a couple years ago. Thought I was
talking to
Discount Honda then.

        I wasn't impressed with their 24 hrs to fax back a quote. Droid
on the phone
was "efficiently friendly"

        He had heard of our list but seemed unimpressed and offered no
group discount.

zimbob......head hurts


Subject: Cool Vests, etc.
From: "Custer, Carl" <Carl.Custer@USDA.GOV>
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 12:55:51 -0400

Stolen from

From: Chris Norloff <>
Subject: Cool Vests, etc.
Here's some cool vest info, etc. I've gathered over the years. The
from Wright Safety and ILC Dover look pretty nice, at a reasonable price.

Canadian military, air-cooling vest

The Vegas Vest (water-soaked) (link not currently working)

Phase-change vest ($250-400)

Ice Pak vest ($209), Ice-chilled water circulated ($285)

Misty Mate, water mister ($20-50) [$13 at Sam's]

I ran across this comparison of vests by one of the vendors - they're in

"Buy 5 units for Super Discounts!" Call for details.
PHONE (216) 587-2000 FAX (216) 587-5435


Subject: Happy 99 removal instructions
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 01:43:21 GMT

Here is what you do to get rid of it. First off, print this out since
you will be in DOS to do part of this.

1) Reboot to MS-DOS mode (no, do NOT open a DOS window in Windows -
actually reboot to MS-DOS).

2) type the following:

 cd\windows\system <enter>
 ren wsock32.dll *.old <enter>
 ren wsock32.ska *.dll <enter>
 deltree ska.* <enter, then hit 'Y' on the two files it asks about>

 exit <enter>

3) After Windows finishes rebooting, go to Start > Find > Files or

4) In the 'Named' section, type in 'liste.ska' (without quotes).   In
the 'Look In' section, make sure that it is your C:\ drive.

5) Click 'Find Now'

6) When the file is found, right mouse-click on it and then left
mouse-click 'rename'.

7) Type in 'Liste.txt' (without quotes) as the new name and then hit

8) Now double-click the file and it should open in Notepad or another
text editor.

9) These are the people you have mailed the virus to.

You may want to send a note to these people that you sent them the
Happy99.exe virus (recognized by the fireworks display it shows when
you first run it). If any of them ask how to get rid of it, just
forward this info to them.



Subject: Re: Trip to Dennis Kirk
From: Rob Parker <>
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 23:13:46 -0500

Kurt Grife wrote:
> In a message dated 7/16/99 7:21:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> yooperbikemike@YAHOO.COM writes:
> Sport Wheels is on Hwy 169 near Jordan south of Mpls. It is an amazing
> place.

Rob Parker


Subject: Free microfiches
From: Steve and Natalie Warner <sbwarner@TSOFT.COM>
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1999 18:45:54 -0700

Someone recently posted the URL for a site that gave RT prices
for OEM parts. This same dealer offers to supply a free
microfiche for your bike.;;14

Steve Warner


Subject: Re: Potentially bad igniter
From: Cliff Koch <ckoch1@EMAIL.MOT.COM>
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 11:29:33 -0500

Robert McDowell wrote:
> Hello, can you direct me in the right direction to solve the following
> problem?
> My 1985 V65 has 71,100 miles on her and I'm experiencing what I believe
> is a problem with the 1/3 igniter. On a cold start the bike fires up
> just fine and stays running on all fours.

  I'd started a web page on the subject, but it's very, very, not
yet. There's still more text to be added, I haven't linked in the
yadda, yadda, but the basics of what's probably wrong and what to do
about it
is there. Look at:
  I'll finish it someday....



Subject: kevlar jacket
From: Rick Ricks <guzzirick@SPEEDRULZ.COM>
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 14:21:13 -0400

I found this artical on the light weight kevlar jackets.

I thought it anwsered alot of questions I had about this jacket. Seems
they had the same opinion
as our Maggots.

Rick Ricks

If you've had a bike stolen/locks broken etc.or have any
suggestions, please let me know..

Bike Security FAQ v1.4.1 Alan Frame   <> 2/6/97

Just to make you paranoid:
Between January and May 1966, motorcycle industry figures say 17,540 new
Hondas, Yamahas, Suzukis and Kawasakis were sold in the UK.
Police figures for the same period show 18,374 Japanese bikes were
reported stolen.
Since 1993 almost 60,000 bikes have been stolen with 35,000 never
A conservative estimate puts their value at 20,000,000 pounds.
(RiDE magazine, Nov '96)

(1) Datatag.
If your insurance premium is more than 40 quid then datatag your bike.
It only costs about 40 quid (less if you're in MAG) and deters anyone
stealing your bike for parts - This *is* important very for small bikes,
e.g. 125 trailies as they're amongst the most frequently stolen and used
as field bikes. Appropriate for expensive bikes too - care to guess
how much a new Ducati 916 petrol tank costs?
It's worth taking a look at your bike and working out which parts
are likely to be trashed in a crash - these are the bits most in demand..
So once you've got your datatag number, you can etch/punch/engrave it
on the inside of fairing panels, fork legs, headlamp units etc.

(2) Disk Locks.
Ok for detering joyriders, but won't stop a determined thief.
The ones like minature D-locks (Kryptonite etc.) are better than the
"flat" ones that shear off. I use one at work when the bike is parked
in front of the security guards & at home when I'm in the house (bike
is garaged & alarmed).
If you put it on the rear disk, it can be harder to smash the disk or
drill/cut the lock, but you're more likely to forget it.
I keep mine on the rear right indicator when I'm not using it, so
check for it there before I move off.
Pilot shops sell "Remove Before Flight" streamers that might help you
remember it. Other suggestions include a rubber band around the ignition
key (transfer to lock when riding) and sticking a golfball marker in the

(3) U- Locks
A recent magazine test (RiDE - <

> and follow the
"Product Test" links) rated the Oxford Roc (Sold Secure rated) top, but
it's 100 quid....
Surprisingly a 20 Ming Tay lock also did well, taking price into account.
Oxford do a U-lock carrier that fits behind your rear numberplate.

(3) Chains & Padlocks
The bigger the better - Arbus & Oxford are pretty good - the new Oxford
Monster (with revised lock) is rated Sold Secure - MCN found the chain
The main thing is to chain the bike *to* something, keeping the lock
off the ground, with as little slack in the chain as possible.
Try to put it round a wheel *and* the frame, too.
I use mine when I'm leaving the bike anywhere for >15 mins/out of alarm
earshot, and in the garage when I'm out of the house.
-------Paul Milton reported:

The Oxford Revolver has a series of ball bearings spaced out with steel
spacers which then have a steel casing holding them together .

Basically, they have succeeded in making the lock hacksaw proof but if a
is inserted at point A and given a belt with a lump hammer, the lock
apart. RiDE magazine gave this lock a slating for this reason. When the
Monster broke on me they tried to fob me off with two of these locks as
price was the same (70 quid each !!) and they came from the same company.
much haggling they gave me the Abus Granite and chain which is good.

(4) Ground Anchors
"Only 3 percent of theft victims had ground anchors at home, but that's
where 60% of thefts occur" [RiDE/Peak Security study, Nov 96]
Good for chaining the bike too is you have to keep it in a driveway etc.
(or even in a garage if you're *really* paraniod.)
Caravan shops can be a source for cheap screw-in ground anchors.

The Steve Clarke Engineering Bike Anchor, Rhino Rock Anchor,
Bulldog Security Post and Big Foot Cemfix did well in RiDE's test.
The best ones should be concreted in, but the ones with shear-head
bolts are next best. They should be positioned in corners or near walls
to make it harder to get access (e.g. leverage with a scaffold pole).

Gara make a Sold Secure approved ground anchor/wheelclamp that weighs
12 Kg and locks the rear wheel to the ground. Costs about 190 quid.

I spoke to the guy from Marshall Welding at the BMF Show - he designs
and makes his own ground anchor (and lift-up-workbenches) It looks
pretty effective and costs about 135 quid.

(5) Alarms/Immobilisers
Three main choices here, either:
(a) get a cheap one that *you* can hear from bedroom/work, etc.
(b) just get a cheap immobiliser, or
(c) get a serious insurance approved one (Spyball/Datatool etc.)
- these can cost 200-300 quid (you generally need to get then fitted by
an approved fitter to get the discount), but are worth it if your bike is
worth more than say, 5000 quid - keep a phtocopy of the installation
certificate in case the Ins .Co. want it.
Whatever kind you get, make sure the alarm is well hidden and be
reful with that jetwash!

Top-Tip: buy a new battery for the remote each time you buy a new
tax disk - they're cheap and it's better to waste a quid than have your
alarm stuck armed on a wet friday night....
If your alarm remote seems to require new batteries frequently,
you can sometimes open it up and tweak the tuning screw to get
a better range and prolong pattery life.

Peak Motorcycle Security and BSH do tripwires that set off a blank
cartridge (for about 12 quid), which should probably wake you up and
off any thieves.

(6) Covers
Dead cheap and essential if you keep a bike outside - put some
duct tape on it or pour some paint on it to make it look tatty.
Make sure you can't see the rear tyre (by tying it round), then Mr.
Thief *might* think your Fireblade is a C90.

(7) Garages
I use the up-an-over garage door M&P (01792 775566) kit (AK6GDL)
for 90 quid
- two brackets fixed to the garage floor at either side at the base with
bits that stick through the door to attach the supplied padlocks to.
It's more or less what the local CPO (btw: call your local nick)
- he has a Hog in his garage!

Make sure your drill can cope with 50mm deep 10/12mm holes
in concrete... (mine couldn't :-(

The "Garage Guard" is a 50 quid T-bar that locks onto
a metal ground plate to block an up-and-over door from opening.

--------Old mail from Hoddy -----------
Re- Garage door locks

Having seen two   garage doors feloniously entered and having helped make
'em thief proof   afterwards...
Even I can bend   the average garage door - just wearing 'bike gloves. You
must strengthen   the door and/or anchor its lower edge to the ground.

I'd start by screwing a length of 4 x 2 to the inside bottom edge of the
door. Use self tapping screws from the outside - and plenty of 'em. Or
rivet a
steel plate or aluminium "L" section if you have the technology.
If possible (some designs cleverly preclude it) strengthen the sides,
Rivet a metal plate around the lock on the outside. You can [literally]
cut the average garage door with an old fasioned can-opener. If you can't
fibre-glass or glue some plywood on the inside. If they can make a hole
by the lock they can undo it.

Buy two BIG padlock and hasps. Attach the long bit to the ground and the
little "D" loop bits to the bottom of the door. About a foot in from the
edge on either side - to minimise the "unsupported length" between the
Most locksmiths can sell you two padlocks with one key, so locking /
won't be too much of a chore.

My *patent* idea: buy a spare "D" loop from the same locksmith and run it
through the door close to - but not right next to - the lock. Put a BIG
bastard padlock on it. This lock does nothing ... it's there to waste the
time. They spend ages busting this - and setting off the trembler alarm
you've put on the inside of the door, without getting round to the two
level padlocks.

ALWAYS lock 'bikes even in a garage and SECURITY MARK the tools. Tools
that could help the thief (angle grinders; hacksaws) should be locked
into a

(8) Insurance:
You can often save money on your insurance by calling for a quote on a
Friday afternoon, or at the end of the month - they've got sales targets
Make sure you keep a photocopy of your form before you send it back to
- I also keep all my old policies as a friend lost some of hers and had
of trouble proving her no-claims discount.
Remember to read the policy in detail - beware of clauses like *no* theft
cover if the bike is stolen between 10pm & 7am if it's not in your
I've rejected policies like that in the past - some are better and only
increase your excess if the bike is stolen at night if parked *outside*
your garage, but within 100 yards of *your* house, so you're ok

If you have a claim and it all goes pear-shaped, the Insurance Ombudsman
can be contacted at City Gate 1, 135 Park Street, London SE1 9EA,
telephone number 0171 928 4488.

(9) Other stuff:
A baby alarm (40 quid from Boots or Mothercare) can be set up in a garage
shed & bedroom and will let you hear what's going on.
DIY shops sell cheap motion detector alarms from your garage/shed from
about 30 quid
If there is a connecting door between your garage and house, fit a decent
4-lever mortice lock and use it!
Don't leave you bike keys hanging on a hook in the garage or kitchen.
Electronic Video Security (& others that advertise in Exchange and Mart)
CCTV cameras with a motion detector to start your video recording from
100 to 180 quid.
B&Q sell basic CCTV cameras for around 100 quid.
A piece of sellotape over the written part of your tax disk will make
it harder for anyone to doctor it & cash it in.

The final answer will depend on what bike you've got, how much
it's worth, where you keep it and how you use it.

NOTE:   These numbers are in Great Britain.

(A) Suppliers:
First Line Products (0191 4920395) Garage Guard, ground anchors, chains &
Dimond Security (0191 2671628) Ground anchor, chains & padlocks.
Oxford Products (01865 841400) <

> Disk, U-Locks,
Chains etc.
MPS (01626 835835) most security bits.
Steve Clarke Engineering (01642 312531) Ground anchor
Rhino Rock Anchor (0115 982 5092) Ground anchor
Big Foot (0191 492 0395) Ground anchor
Bulldog (01952 728171) Ground anchor
CK Moto - Kryptonite (01788 540606) Disk, U-Locks, Chains etc.
Michael Brandon - Arbus (1450 373333) U-Locks, Chains etc.
PJB Gates Security Service (0117 965 9240) Gara ground anchor.
The Key (01869 325371) chains, locks, anchors etc
Peak Motorcycle Security (0116 247 8434) shotgun cartridge alarm mines.
Back Street Heroes Trading (0161 929 1332) shotgun cartridge alarm mines.
& skull keep out warning signs.
Electronic Video Security (01992 524 001) CCTV stuff.
Marshall Welding (01775 840573) Ground anchors.

(B) Web sites:
http: //> has car-based info.
MAG are at

Oxford Products

has some info from the Retail Motor Industry Federation.

                             This is a sample flame:
If brains were gasoline, you wouldn't have enough to ride a moped down a
driveway. If brains were intestinal methane, you wouldn't have enough
to do a one-cheek sneak.

Stick your head in your floppy drive and   type "Format a:".

Your intelligence is a Kronecker delta function which spikes at the
value "moron".

I'll bet you couldn't pour piss out of a boot if the instructions were
on the heel. You are a canker. A sore that won't go away.

You are a fiend and a sniveling, back-boneless coward, and you have bad
breath. You are degenerate, noxious and depraved. I feel debased just
for knowing you exist. I despise everything about you. You are a
bloody nardless newbie twit protohominid chromosomally aberrant
caricature of a coprophagous cloacal parasitic pond scum. And I wish
you would go away.
You're a putrescent mass, a walking vomit. You are a spineless little
worm deserving nothing but the profoundest contempt. You are a jerk, a
cad, a weasel. Your life is a monument to stupidity. You are a stench,
a revulsion, a putrefaction, a big suck on a sour lemon with a lime

You are a bleating foal, a curdled staggering mutant dwarf smeared
richly with the effluvia and offal accompanying your alleged birth
into this world. An insensate, blinking calf, meaningful to nobody,
abandoned by the puke-drooling, giggling beasts who sired you and
then killed themselves in regret for what they had done.
I will never get over the embarrassment of belonging to the same
species as you. You are a monster, an ogre, a malformation. I barf at
the very thought of you. You have all the appeal of a paper cut.
Lepers avoid you. You are vile, worthless, less than nothing. You are
a weed, a fungus, a ferment, the dregs of this earth. And did I
mention you smell?

If you aren't an idiot, you made a world-class effort at simulating
one. Try to edit your writing of poorly thought-out material before
attempting to impress us with your insight. The evidence that you are
a nincompoop will still be available to readers, but they will be able
to access it more rapidly.

You snail-skulled little twit. Would that a hawk pick you up, drive
its beak into your brain, and upon finding it rancid set you loose to
fly briefly before spattering the ocean rocks with the frothy pink
shame of your ignoble blood. May you choke on the queasy, convulsing
nausea of your own trite, foolish beliefs.

You are weary, stale, flat and unprofitable. You are grimy, squalid,
nasty and profane. You are foul and disgusting. You're a fool, an
ignoramus. Monkeys look down on you, and laugh. Even your own hand
refuses autoeroticism. You are unreservedly pathetic, starved for
attention, and lost in a land that reality forgot.

And what meaning do you expect your delusional self-important
statements of unknowing, inexperienced opinion to have with us? What
fantasy do you hold that you would believe that your tiny-fisted
tantrums would have more weight than that of a leprous desert rat,
spinning rabidly in a circle, waiting for the bite of the snake?

You are a waste of flesh. You have no rhythm. You are ridiculous and
obnoxious. You are the moral equivalent of a leech. You are a living
emptiness, a meaningless void. You are sour and senile. You are a
disease, you puerile one-handed slack-jawed drooling meat slapper.

On a good day you're a half-wit. You remind me of drool. You are
deficient in all that lends character. You have the personality of
wallpaper. You are dank and filthy. You are asinine and benighted.
You are the source of all unpleasantness. You spread misery and sorrow
wherever you go.   You are not even worth an original flame.

You may join your intellectual peers in my twit filter. This means that
I find the lack of intelligent content in your posts, so embarassingly
painful, that I can no longer tolerate such lackwit effrontery.

By the way, I saw a Honda on the side of I-405 yesterday, in the
northbound lane, right before the exit to WA SR 522. It was unattended,
much like what is vestigial of your higher faculties.

I know that you will make another utterly banal, incompetent attempt to
show us all how, cool, witty, charming, sophisticated, clever, and
intelligent you are. It will not work. I will not see it. You are
hereby banished to the Phantom Zone of Netuse Stupidity, for all time.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year,


Look for a cheap and simple 3 LED voltmeter schematic at:


Suspension Setup 101 Forks (this is for a *street* bike, race bikes are
setup differently) For a street bike the sag should be set at about 1" to
(this is with you on the bike wearing your riding gear seated as you
be riding, someone must be holding the bike vertical while another person
is measuring). This is accomplished by adjusting the preload.
pieces can affect the damping. You can use PVC to get the proper length,
but then go get yourself some metal tubing. Once the preload is set,
how much the bike sags under its own weight. It should sag about 1/2". If
it sags much less (or not at all) then your springs are too weak (weak
means much preload which means less sag under the weight of the bike
If it sags much more, the springs are too stiff. Setting damping
correctly takes
experience. If you have adjustable suspension, turn one adjuster at a
time to
the exteme values (turn compression on both forks to maximum, then to the
minimum). This will give you an idea of what you are trying to feel. Your
Ascot forks asre not adjustible, so you will have to experiment with
weight oils. Unfortunately with damper rod forks (non-adjustable), both
compression and rebound will change. Fork oil volume affects about the
third of suspension travel. The higher the oil level, the stiffer the
becomes. Once you have selected the proper spring and oil, if you are
bottoming regularly, try raising the oil level to reduce bottoming.
the idea is to use the full suspension travel. A zip tie around the fork
helps (when I have the springs out I usually fully collapse the forks and
from the top of the tubes so I know where full travel is). You may want
check a manual to see if it gives a maximum oil level. Overfilling can
lead to
hydraulic lock. Emulators are nice. They give the ability to seperately
set the
compression and rebound for a damper rod fork. Yes this is a lot of work,
but it is the only way you will get the suspension to work the way *you*
it to. The only time I send my forks away is if I cannot get the damping
the way
I want it with oil/adjusters. Shock Take your stock shock and throw it in
trash (unless the bike comes stock with a top quallity shock - Ohlins,
I set about 1" of sag for the street. For the street, Fox and Progressive
shocks are OK. If you really want the best, save your pennies and get an
or Penske. The difference is noticeable. Tell them exactly how you ride,
weight etc.,
do not lie. Don't tell them you want a race shock and put it on a street
bike, you
will not like it. Play with the adjustments to get the ride you are
after. If you run
out of range, return the shock for revalving (most will revalve and
respring free
for the first year). Take your time, take notes and you will have a great
bike, it will be the best time/money spent on your bike. (raced motocross
10 years, road raced for the past 6 years - AMA Pro, Formula USA)
-- Brian McLaughlin


Joan is the queen of ASCII art, and *very* prolific.


Subject: Heat Shrinkable
From: "Custer, Carl" <Carl.Custer@USDA.GOV>
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 12:57:47 -0400

My local source of long lengths of heat shrink tubing hasn't been
so I did a quick search on the Internet for sources of the Cole-Flex
I had used to cover SS brake tubing wiring connections and such. (3 foot
length of clear 1/4 inch 1:2 shrink costs $2.75)
They make lotsa kinds of heat shrink tubing:
Single Wall
       Military Grade
       Industrial Grade
       Low Shrink Temperature
       Extra Flexible
       2 to 1 Shrink Ratio
       3 to 1 Shrink Ratio
       4 to 1 Shrink Ratio


Subject: Re: cargo trailer
From: Jack Smith <JISmithIII@AOL.COM>
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 17:42:05 EDT

In a message dated 10/16/99 4:24:01 PM Central Daylight Time,
GadgetDan@AOL.COM writes:

<< Hitch for 1994 and newer Magna $215

 A 140 pound cargo trailer at $500.

 A 154 pound motorcycle specific trailer for $1625.

 A cargo trailer comparison chart, sans pricing. >>

Here's another:

Jack Smith


Subject: Re: Removing the coating/clearcoat?
From: Chris Long <>
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 13:22:29 -0400

>On that topic, anyone have a recommendation for a good heat-resistant
>clearcoat? I wanna protect my polishing investment...
Although I haven't done it myself (yet), I think $135.00 is a good price
an anodizing kit that will make your polish job last indefinitely. Check

and chase down the page on the aluminum anodizing kit.

Send the customary referral fee to:
Chris Long


Subject: Re: wheel bearings size and part number?
From: Bob Sunley <rosunley@VIDEON.WAVE.CA>
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 23:21:09 -0600

>From Dennis Kirk catalogue

id od width   std number
V65 Magna

Fronts    15x42x13      6302-RS
L rear     20x47x14     6204-2RS
R rear     20x52x12      6304-2RS

VF750C/S 82-83
vf700s 84-85
Vf70C 84
VF500C-F 84-85

Fronts       15x42x13   6302-RS
rears       12x47x14 6303-RS


Subject: Re: SABMAG Digest - 1 Dec 1999 to 2 Dec 1999 - Special
From: "Jim G." <bigjimmyg@CYBERDUDE.COM>
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 12:55:08 -0500

Ye Wilde Ryder wrote:

> >Is there a listing of the commonly used acronyms?


> big jimmy g, paging big jimmy g...

zzzz.    snort....   wha?
Oh, you woke me up.



Subject:             re: History lesson
   Date:             Tue, 20 Aug 1996 07:54:43 -0700
   From:             Ron Erhardt <>

> From: Robert Zimmerman <>, on 8/20/96 7:44 AM:
>          How about some education for a new (83) Sabre owner? What does
>the V45/V65 mean?? Relative horsepower?? years made    etc......
> The 45/65 approximates the displacement (in cubic inches) of the
>45 ~= 750cc, 65 ~= 1100cc.

           V45   Sabre   -   1982   thru 1985(?) - Mfr rating 77 hp(?)
           V45   Magna   -   1983   to present - Mfr rating 77 hp(?)
           V65   Magna   -   1983   thru 1986 - Mfr rating 116 hp
           V65   Sabre   -   1984   and 1985 - Mfr rating 121 hp

        In the U.S., the 'V45' models were actually 700cc from 1984
thru '86 (VF700C,S). The current Magna has a slightly higher hp
rating (80, I think).

           Your mileage may vary.          ;-D

        Ryde on.
Ron Erhardt


Subject:       Accents and Accessories for the Honda Magna
           Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 19:54:36 -0700
           From: Louis Karnbach <>

I found this:

Accents and Accessories for the Honda


      Emblem not included.

      APPLICATION                     PART#
      MAGNA V65 83-86                 41--2-133       $60.99

    24K gold plated emblems have pressure sensitive backs.

    DESCRIPTION                    PART#
    3 V45 EAGLE DESIGN             41-2-90
    2 V700 EAGLE DESIGN            41-2-96A
    3 V45 WING DESIGN              41-2-97
    3 V65 WING DESIGN              41-2-98           $2.99


    Includes chrome bolt and spring.

    APPLICATION                    PART#
    MAGNA 82-86                    41-2-118A           $19.99


    MAGNA V65 85-86 41-2-136        $12.99
    MAGNA V45 83-84 41-2-228        $17.99


    Includes embossed V45 emblem for optional use.

    APPLICATION                    PART#
    MAGNA V45 82-83                41-2-59
    MAGNA 700 84-86                41-2-59A          $6.99


    Includes V45 emblems for optional use.

    APPLICATION                     PART#
    MAGNA V45 82-83                 41-2-44
    MAGNA 700 84-86 (EXCEPT CA) *   41-2-44A         $29.99


    Fastens onto the stock taillight lens.

    APPLICATION                    PART#
    MAGNA V65 83-86                41-2-125          $19.99

Online Order Form

Or Call Our

         Nation-Wide Toll-Free Phone: 1-800-841-2960

Subject:     Gas FAQ
   Date:     Thu, 5 Sep 1996 18:48:33 -1000 (HST)
   From: (Brian Sydness)

Here's the address for a Gasoline FAQ, quite extensive and good



Subject:           Helmet Laws
   Date:           Sun, 8 Sep 1996 11:41:27 -0700
   From: (Dave)

For up to date info on helmet laws, check out

They've got a list of the states and their helmet laws. Only 3 states
no helmet laws (Colorado, Illinois, and Iowa), while about half of the
remaining states have conditional laws, i.e. if you're over 18 and not a
first year rider, you're not required to wear a helmet...

Happy trails...



Subject:          Re: Running lights...
   Date:          Mon, 9 Sep 96 16:38:41 EDT
   From:  (Michael Walt)

> The other day, I saw a BMW with running lights on his rear directionals
>      (the directionals are always lit, they go off and back on when
>      It sounds like a good thing, and I was wondering where I could get
a kit,
>      or some advice about doing the same for my bike.

Very simple. Take turn signal sockets that are built for running lights;
such as the ones that come on the front of your (and just about every
other...) Honda. The socket is the part that actually holds the bulb .
They will have 3 wires coming from them (ground/running lite power/TS
Remove the rear 2 wire sockets and install the 3 wire sockets. wire up
ground and TS to existing wires feeding the rear. Hook running lite wire
to same power source as front running lites. Install 1034 dual filiment

Viola! Rear running lites. If you are lucky you can pick up the whole
at a salvage yard for less than 10$

Michael Walt


Subject: Re: Need to know/just trying to understand!
From: michael walt <yooperbikemike@YAHOO.COM>
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 06:07:49 -0800

--- pjwest <badger@DUCKLINGTON.U-NET.COM> wrote:

> Does anyone know how Honda attributed their frame/engine prefix
> To explain, I've just bought some VF1000RE parts that appear to have
> original tags
> showing the prefix RC16.
> What I'm asking is - if the V65 Sabre is the RC17 and the V65 Magna is,
> believe, the
> RC12, why does the VF1000R fall between them. Is it to do with design
> numbering, it doesn't appear to be connected to model years or
> timing? (and
> where are RC13,14 and 15?)

OK, one more time. The RC designation is a general engine code for Honda
motorcycles since the early '80's for 2 to 4 cylinder motors 650cc to 800
(In the USA, anyway)

RC01   CB 750 SC Nighthawk '82-3
RC03   CB 650
RC07   VF750C Magna '82-3,'88; VF 750S '82-3
RC08   CB 650SC Nighthawk '82
RC10   GL 650 Silver Wing
RC11   CX 650C Custom
RC14   VT 750C Shadow '83
RC13   CB 650SC Nighthawk '83-5
RC15   VF 750F Interceptor '83-4
RC16   CX 650T Turbo
RC19   VT 700C Shadow '84-7
RC20   CB 700SC Nighthawk 'S'
RC21   VF 700C Magna '84-7
RC22   VF 700S Sabre ''84-5
RC23   VF 700F Interceptor '84-5
RC24   VFR 750F '86
RC26   VFR 700F&F2 '86-7
RC30   VFR 750R '90
RC31   NT 650 Hawk GT
RC32   VT 800C Shadow '88-
RC34   PC 800 Pacific Coast '89-
RC36   VFR 750F '90-97
RC38   CB 750 Nighthawk '91-
RC43   VF750C Magna '94-
RC44   VT750C Shadow A.C.E. 750 '98-
RC45   RVF 750R '94
RC46   VFR 800FI '98-

SC denotes engines over 800cc, For example:
SC12 VF 1100C V-65 Magna '83-6
SC15 VF 1000F '84 Interceptor
SC16 VF 1000R '85-6
SC17 VF 1100S V-65 Sabre '84-5
SC26 ST 1100 '91-

Et Cetera.

Michael Walt


Subject: Hotlist
From: Steve Ingram <sai@IHUG.COM.AU>
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 08:30:09 +1000

Hi fellow sabmag listers
Have been meaning to post this for a while - but have been a tad busy.

I realise this is similar to what appears on the SABRE/MAGNA FAQ list
 - but it is quite a bit different.

On my site is what I have compiled what is commonly referred to on
the VF/VFR list as the hotlist of bike related links and VF VFR related
sites, just hit this link if you want to use them:

Safe riding to all

Steve Ingram


(shipping a bike)

Subject: Re: The Dark Side.
From: No Name <pwr@INFINET.COM>
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 14:39:53 -0500
On Mon, 8 Nov 1999, teblum wrote:

> that is just a problem. Poor little old me. I might "have" to drive a
> motorcycle clear accross the country. Map N Go says 1 day, 15 hour and
> minutes. I'm inclined to believe 24 hours is doable.

Don't be. 50 hours is a more than reasonable estimate. If you think more
than two hours of sleep in that time is appropriate, add accordingly.
>     Anyone know a trucker??

1-800-747-4100. Ask for Brad. Federal Allied picks up your bike anywhere
and delivers anywhere. It's shipped on a special bike pallet in a truck
modified especially to ship large, fragile, expensive objects. I've
shipped more than thirty rare and expensive bikes this way and there was
never a problem, much less a claim. Give them originating and destination
zip codes and they'll give you an instant quote. Look at $500 coast to


Subject: Armor
From: "Custer, Carl" <Carl.Custer@USDA.GOV>
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 12:51:52 -0500

Would the following be useful for the FAQ?

Skin protection endorsed by Maggots:

Can't be beat; "Cordura is a fashion statement"; lotsa pockets, Gore-Tex.

If you just gotta have leather:

You must try on a Vanson to realize why they get what they charge. Vanson
also has an open house sale in the Spring.

You'll also see First Gear; Hein Gerke; on many Maggots.

For cheapo leathers:

Maggots have made two(?) group purchases.

Jeans?: Draggin jeans

 Kevlar in butt and knees.
Endorsed by several Maggots

For additional protection under leather (or a whatever) Bohn Body Armor

Steve Stokes said, "The jacket is made in Israel by Brosh Tex for desert
It has armor in the shoulders and elbows, vents all over the place, and
is really
cool. It's fit is close enough to wear leather over it on cold days and
still have
the advantage of protection."

Used stuff (folks sometimes expand before their armor wears out)

Has been used successfully by several Maggots for leather and Cordura

In Arizona   is reputedly good.

Also Scan LDR, BMW pages for used suits.
See Aerostich's "Sale Items" for Close outs, Irregulars, Return's, and


Subject: new electric vest/material
From: "H.Smith" <hsmith@FAMVID.COM>
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 11:50:48 -0500

Allow me to introduce Doug Grosjean. He has spent most of his life
in heated gear and has developed a vest of his own using resistance
instead of wires. His vest is patented as the first serviceable
fabric elements can be easily replaced) electric garment. The fabric he
using is called Gorix. People are real excited about his vest and you can
check it out at this site.

-----Original Message-----
From: Russell D. Stephan, Sr. Tech Analyst
Date: Saturday, December 18, 1999 10:48 AM
Subject: Friday night ride. Chilly!

>Went for a test ride of a hundred or so miles Friday night in twenty
>temperatures. I haven't had the bike out for a couple of weeks! It
>good to be moving atop two wheels again.
>My motivation for this little country freeway trip was to test out a new
>wiring harness I had built a number of days ago for my home rolled
>boot heaters. My original harness wired the two heaters in parallel. A
>parallel configuration produces way too much warmth! The new harness is
>wired so that the two heating elements are in series like Widder's glove
>Although I could feel warmth from the series wiring setup, it didn't
>enough heat to make an all-day twenty degree trip comfortable. Looks
>I'm going to have to try some other setups.
>Thanks to Ron B. from the Sabmag list, I've got a lead on a company that
>manufactures the actual heating elements that Kimpex uses in their grip
>heater product. I'll probably be placing a small "concept work-up"
>varying element sizes and resistance levels to see if I can come up with
>Goldie Locks "just right" boot heating setup.


Subject: Re: elect. vest
From: Don <don@ORIONSYS.COM>
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 14:02:32 -0800

Re: the conductive fabric. I got some samples of this a couple of years
ago - it is fun stuff to play with. Wrap a strip around your arm and
the battery at each end and the whole surface gets warm. The drawback to
the material I have is that when stretched the resistance (and so the
changes. I think they fixed that by bonding the stuff to a non-stretch
backing. Giali Motorcycle Apparel has vests, jacket liners, and socks
use it; vest - $150, liner - $200, socks - $80. They're at
they did have a booth at the Seattle motorcycle show, so those of you
shows still to come can check them out.
  ----- -----


Subject: High Wattage Bulb Source
From: Beaver Koch <veefour@SPEEDRULZ.COM>
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 21:03:54 -0500

Brice Ligget <ligget@TWOALPHA.NET> wrote:
<Where do you get high wattage bulbs now?>
Local NAPA carries Wagner Automotive Lamps P/N BP1210/H4,
100/80 Halogen for about $11.00...... and uh..... Thanks, Guys, for the
history lesson on ... uh.... calendars. I feel much better now.......

Relieved, Beaver in GA


Subject: Electrex URL Correction
From: Phil Ross <pross@OHIOHISTORY.ORG>
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 16:33:19 -0500



Subject: Re: Warped Rotor
From: Chris Long <>
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 23:37:23 -0500

>For some reason I   recall reading that some motorcycle rotors can be
>straightened, and   by that I don't mean turned. There isn't enough meat
>the rotor to turn   it down to eliminate the warp and still be over the
>minimum thickness   specification.

Y'all save this link, may come in handy. I've got no personal
ties/experiences with these folks but I'm sure I'll try them out one day.

Chris Long
1984 V65 Magna "Big Brother"
1984 V65 Sabre "Guinea Pig"
1990 DR 350S "Step Child"
1988 Warrior "Kill-o-dollar"
Ticket Twin #1, 15% Squid


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