Get documents about "1996.11.11 Frequently Asked Questions _from the Vanagon
Shared by: wuyunyi
-
Stats
- views:
- 127
- posted:
- 12/2/2011
- language:
- English
- pages:
- 53
Document Sample
1996.11.11
Frequently Asked Questions
(from the Vanagon list).
(All Models, Vanagons, 1981-1991)
Technical Bulletins
Volkswagen Product Service Publications (800) 544-8021
c/o Dyment Distribution Services (216) 572-0725 8am-9pm EST
P.O. Box 360740 visa/mc accepted
Strongsville, OH 44136 (800) 423-4595 svc bulletins
subscription to service bulletins (currently being issued) is
order # VBS 88, cost is $40.00/year.
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (202) 366-2768
Technical Reference Division
Room 5110
400 Seventh St. S.W.
Washington, D.C. 20590
Depending on the number of TSBs issued to date for your vehicle, it will
cost $20 to $40 to have them reproduced and mailed to you. You'll need
to send a written request, but first call to hear the recorded message
for instructions. "
Out-of-Print Service/Owners Manuals
Volkswagen United States if it's still available, they'll send
1-800-544-8021 it to you. $10 each.
Bob Johnson Automobile Literature
21 Blandin Ave.
Framingham, Mass, 01701
(508) 872-9173 EST business hours
(800) 334-0688
Auto's Lit Shop (PA)
(717) 987-3702
Schiff European Automotive Literature,Inc expensive owner's manuals
373 Richmond St.
Providence, RI 02903
401-453-5370
fax-453-5372
========================================================================
TOYS!!
EWA & Miniature Cars USA"
books, videos, models, even manuals
all sorts of cars (not just VW)
(800) ewa-4454 for credit card orders
(908) 665-7811 for ?? (ordinary queries, I guess)
(908) 665-7814 for fax
They also have an internet address: ewamincar@delphi.com
or 73424.1057@compuserve.com
<Joachim Beek (beekj@tsdhp.jsc.nasa.gov)>
=========================================================================
From: "Dan Houg" <HOUGD@mdh-bemidji.health.state.mn.us>
AT&T 800 's web site
For those of you with a web browser, AT&T has a neat web site that
will do searches for toll free numbers
http://att.net/dir800
for example, a search for 'volkswagen' brings up many VW dealerships
and parts places. a search for 'automobile AND parts' brings up
several hundred #'s for everything from bumpers to salvage to parts
warehouses.
========================================================================
Visiting Germany? Want to visit the VW Factory?
Write to
Besucherdienst
VOLKSWAGEN AG
D-38436 Wolfsburg
Germany
They are the visitor's bureau for VW. Plant tours are at 1:00 pm and
last about 1.5 hrs. Visit the VW museum, open 10 am to 5 pm.
Here's the name of a contact at the VW Visitor's Bureau...
Hans-Jurgen Klar
Tel. (0 53 61) 9-2 02 00
Fax (0 53 61) 92 44 79
Want to visit the Volkswagen AutoMuseum, where the old beetles and
Karmann Ghias and all manner/shape/type/form of Volkswagen's production
and specialty cars are stored?
Volkswagen AutoMuseum
Dieselstrasse 35
3180 Wolfsburg 1
GERMANY
tel: 05361 / 5201 (from the United States: 011-49-5361-5201)
Open 10am-5pm daily
Want to know the birthday of your beloved Volkswagen?
Need to know the original factory color?
Want to check the original engine serial number?
Like to know when your VW was delivered?
Write to the following addresses with those questions:
Pre-1955:
VW Brezelfenstervereinigung e.V.
Ernst Peter Hagen
Amselweg 4
D-3073 Liebenau
GERMANY
and for all other VWs:
Kundendienst / Customer Assistance
VOLKSWAGEN AG
D-38436 Wolfsburg
GERMANY
Want some neato self-teaching guides to your car?
They are called Selbststudienprogramm (self-instruction programme).
Nr. 24 Der neue Transporter. Konstruktion und Funktion
(The New Transporter. Construction and Function)
Nr. 47 Transporter mit wassergeku"hltem Boxermotor.
(Vanagon with water-cooled pancake engine)
Nr. 56 Digijet im Transporter mit wassergeku:htem Boxermotor
(Digijet <fuel injection> in Buses with watercooled engines)
Nr. 66 Volkswagen Transporter und Caravelle Syncro
(VW Transporter/Caravelle Syncro <4WD>)
Nr. 71 Elektrische Zentralverriegelung im Volkswagen Transporter
(Electrical central door locking in VW Transporter)
Nr. 72 Klimaanlage fu"r Caravelle-Modelle: AC (!)
(Air-Conditioning for Caravelle Models)
Nr. 82 Vergasser 2E4 mit electronischer Leerlaufregelung
(Carburetor 2E4 with electronic idle control)
Nr. 86 Antiblockiersystem (Bosch) im Volkswagen Transporter
(Anti-lock brakes (Bosch) in VW Transporters)
Nr. 87 Digifant im PKW
(Digifant <EFI> in motorcars)
Nr. 129 Der neue Transporter/Caravelle 1991
(The new Transporter/Caravelle 1991 <Eurovan>)
Nr. 136 Volkswagen Wohnmobil California 1991
(VW Camper "California" model, 1991 <Eurovan>)
There may be other self-study programs but it is not known right now.
VOLKSWAGEN Kundenkorrospondenz
Postfach 90 06 30
51116 Ko:ln
GERMANY
z. H. Mr. Bernd Schmitter
Mrs. Carola Gerhards
and for the offices of Volkswagen US,
Volkswagen United States (800) 822-8987
Customer Service (for sales literature,
3800 Hamlin Road retail sales locations,
Auburn Hills, MI 48326 recall information, and
service representatives)
and for those with VW/Winnebago campers (Rialtas):
Winnebago Customer Advisor (800) 537-1885
owner's manual for Rialta equipment part number 701674/18/000
======================================================================
VW Bus & Vanagon Clubs
U.S. National............................................
All Sorts of VWs
----------------
Volkswagen Club of America $15/year,
P. O. Box 154 little magazine sent
North Aurora, IL 60542-0154 out every other month
1968-1991 Buses & Vanagons
--------------------------
<new members & back issues>
LiMBO (Late Model Bus Owners, international) $20/year,
Dale Ward (LiMBO) newsletter sent out
9 Golden Hill Ave. every other month
Shrewsbury, MA 01545
(508) 746-9573
<old member renewal> <newsletter>
Steve Paine (LiMBO) Stan Wohlfarth
13 Cobblestone Rd. The Transporter
Barnstable, MA 02630 62 Sycamore Rd.
Wayland, MA 01778
1949-1967 Microbuses
--------------------
NEATO (Nearly Everywhere Association of Transporter Owners)
P. O. Box 190 chapters in AZ, CA, FL, GA, MO, New England,
Pinole, CA 94564 NM, OR, TX, WA, VA, NC, British Columbia
(510) 724-0470 NM, OR, TX, WA
or free sample newsletter. $20/year, $37/2-yr
NEATO or contact Tom Brouillette
3738 Lockerbie Lane c/o rmart@unm.edu
Powder Springs, GA 30073
SOTO (Society of Transporter Owners) monthly newsletter.
P. O. Box 3555 send $1 for more info and
Walnut Creek, CA 94598 sample newsletter
(415) 937-SOTO
VVWCA (Vintage VW Club of America)
P.O. Box 1192
West Babylon, NY 11704
Eurovans
----------
EuroVan Update published quarterly by HP Products. began
6330 Waid Circle in Dec '95. usually about a dozen pages.
Paducah, KY 42001 they've done a survey of EV owners seeking
out any pattern problems (like the flakey
water temp gauge) and suggesting solutions
(cold solder joint on the circuit board,
then published a how-to on getting into
the dash to resolder).
U.S. Regional ...................................
Arizona Bus Club Newsletter Monthly
11638 West Clover Way Interest in older buses, but open to all
Avondale, AZ 85323 $25/first year, $20/year thereafter
SWATO (Southwest Association (AZ chapter of NEATO)
of Transporter Owners)
1225 W. Sand Dune Dr.
Gilbert, AZ 85234
MOMBA (Metro Orlando MicroBus Association)
c/o Tony Morton
2318-B Simpson Ridge Circle
Kissimmee, FL 34744
Lone Star Transporter Assoc. (TX chapter of NEATO)
2661 Carrington Ln.
Grand Prairie, TX 75052
SCAT (Skagit County Assoc. of Transporters)
116 E Section #B-1
Mt. Vernon, WA 98273
Canadian ....................................................
B.U.S. Bus Users Sect is a new international club
9 Young Cres. dedicated to Type II drivers and
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan enthusiasts alike.
CANADA S7J 2L3 for an application form, send a self-
addressed stamped envelope.
<bus@link.ca>
European ....................................................
VW Camping Club (GB)
c/o Peter Phillips 0115 972 8980 (no address available)
VW Type 2 Owners' Club telephone: 0527 872194
c/o Phil Shaw 1967-1991 buses welcome
57 Humphrey Avenue
Charford
Bromsgrove
Worcs. B60 3JP
ENGLAND UK
Split Screen Van Club bi-monthly magazine, big on camping,
c/o Mr T Ellis
37 Surrey Avenue
Sharington
Crewe
Cheshire
CW2 5HW
Split Screen Van Club
c/o David Eccles
"Brambly House" Rowenfield, Cheltenham
93 Dunton Road Glos. GL51 8DF
Broughton Astley, ENGLAND
Leics. LE9 6NA UK
UK
Bulli-Kartei FAX: 02302 / 75039
c/o Jochen Brauer TEL: 02302 / 75907
Brandholzweg 1 pre-1968 buses, magazine 2 or 3 times/year,
58456 Witten (in german language). can join via NEATO
GERMANY
or Hagenbuttenweg 10
6000 Frankfurt Main,
50 Germany
Australia ...................................................
The Kombi Club, Australia. monthly newsletter; meetings at 19:30
P.O. Box 22 on first Wed. of every month at
Boolaroo, NSW 2284 Newcastle Germania Club
David Frey (049) 43 3767 Hillsborough Road
Kevin Comford (049) 58 5083 Warners Bay, NSW
Kombi Camper Club of N.S.W meetins in Strathfield on third
(02) 602 6375 Secretary Thursday of each month. Campervan
owners in/around Sydney invited.
North Queensland Volkswagon Club monthly group outings, tech meetings
(070) 51 4475 Ron on third Monday of each month.
(070) 51 2937 Steve
Type VW Club Inc for all types of VWs
P.O Box 4848
Melbourne,3001
Volkswagon Club of South Australia
20 Coulls Rd
Banksia Park S.A. 5091
Volkswagon Historical Society Australia
P.O Box 553
Ryde N.S.W 2112
Ph(02) 683 2130
Club Veedub Sydney Inc
P.O Box 1135
Parramatta N.S.W. 2150
Rod Young (02) 671 7281
Volkswagon Club of N.S.W LTD
Rick Feruglio (02) 639 3896
John Watt of Tamworth (067) 62 0868 for country "prospective" members
Volkswagon Club of Victoria Inc
Box 1215k G.P.O.
Melbourne 3001
(03) 808 6044
Elsewhere ...................................................
VW Van Club of Jakarta
Sekretariat: JL Cut Nyak Din
No. 7A
Jakarta-Pusat
INDONESIA
Backchat Buggies & Vans
20 Rippen Crescent
Bloemfontein 9322
REPUBLIC OF SOUTH AFRICA
Campers ...................................................
Westfalia Campers
-----------------
Michael Steinke "old" Westfalia Registry. he also
c/o Westfalia Registry sells some very nice looking stickers
Hagebuttenweg 10 that have either the Westfalia logo
60433 Frankfurt (prancing horse) or his own Registry
Germany
Phone and Fax 0 69/54 19 18 logo
Westfalia Wanderers for owners of VW Campmobiles or
13 W. Montgomery St. Vanagon Campers
Ilion, NY 13357
Westfalia Owners Travel Club $??/year, newletter.
Site 13, Box 2, RR #4 "strictly a travel club, and not
Hampton one for restoring older vans ..."
NEW BRUNSWICK E0G 1Z0
CANADA
Club international de camping-car Westfalia ??
Casier Postal 47101
Sillery
QUEBEC G1S 4X1
CANADA
Camp Box News ??
1728 Evansdale (419) 531-2954
Toledo, OH 43607
VW magazines & such
------------------------
Funkengroovin Funkengroovin
<U.S., whenever> 16203 Avenplace Rd.
$14/year US Tomball, TX 77375-8486
email: VWGroovin@aol.com phone (US) (713) 370-284
(713) 370-2844
Dune Buggies and HOT VWs
<U.S., monthly> Wright Publishing, Inc.
$22/year US, add $4/year Canada, P. O. Box 2260
add $8/year all other countries Costa Mesa, CA 92626
<allow 6 weeks for 1st issue>
VW Trends Subscription Dept.
<U.S., monthly> McMullen & Yee Publishing, Inc.
$28/year US P. O. Box 68033
<allow 8-10 weeks for 1st issue> Anaheim, CA 92817-0833
European Car Subscription Dept.
<U.S., monthly> P.O. Box 454
$18.80/year US, Mt. Morris, IL 61054-0454
$26.80/year Canadian <incl.GST>, (800) 877-5602
$28.80/year all others
(not much bus stuff, but hot small cars: golfs, jettas, audis, bmws,...)
Vintage Volkswagen Club of America
Monthly Magazine
VVWCA
5705 Gordon Drive
Harrisburg, PA 17112
$20/year membership/magazine
The VW CONNection
Connecticut Volkswagen Association
P.O. Box 4064
Waterbury, CT 06704
$20/year membership/magazine
The Transporter for 1968 and later buses, vanagons,
LiMBO and eurovans
P.O. Box 3293
Plymouth, MA 02361-3293
$18/year membership/magazine
G.A.S.S. Voice of the Enthusiast
German Air Sucker Society
927 Liberty Street
Salem, OH 44460
$20/year membership/magazine
Old Bus Review for 1949-1967 buses
NEATO
PO Box 4190
Alburquerque, NM 87196
$20/year membership/magazine
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Non-US magazines
Gute Fahrt subscription available from:
<German, monthly> Klasing & Co
5 DM/issue Siekerwall 21
written by VW itself (?); 33602 Bielefeld
non-technical Germany
VW-Szene subscription available from:
<German, monthly> MPS Medien Post Shop
6.80 DM/issue Abt. VW Szene International
deals with all vw models, but Postfach 2122
mainly with bugs. good ads. 45678 Herten
not often technical article. Germany
Auto Motor und Sport subscription available from
<German, bimonthly> Abonnentenservice
32.50/year Postfach
most popular car magazine in 20080 Hamburg
germany. written for average
consumer. lots of car tests, etc.
Promobil promobil-Leserservice
<German, monthly> Abt. MBV
for camperbuses and Postfach 10 60 36
winnebago-types 7000 Stuttgart 10
70 DM/year
not just for vw's (all rv's).
Volksworld Volksworld Subscription Department
<British, monthly> 120-126 Lavender Avenue,
44.20 pounds, airmail Mitcham,
35.00 pounds, surface mail Surrey,
Cheques/international MO only CR4 3HP,
They will also want to know what UK
issue you want to start from. Phone (international) 0181 646 1031
also available in the U.S. from:
EWA
$60/year US PO Box 188
(expensive, but worth it) Berkeley HTS, NJ 07922
VW Motoring P.O.Box 283
<British, monthly> Cheltenham
2.00 BP/issue, 24.00 BP/year Glos. GL52 3BT
Beetles, water-boilers and all ENGLAND U.K.
things vw-ish. features campers
frequently.
(They have a club for all vehicles that pass 100,000 without
accident miles called the 'VW Motoring Friendly Drivers' Club'.
Volkwagen Audi CAR AutoMetrix Publications
<British, monthly> Market Chambers,
2.00 BP/issue, 24.00 BP/year High Street,
bias toward 'performance cars', Toddington,
covers vw family, but mostly Bedfordshire LU5 6BY
audis, not buses. sometimes has ENGLAND U.K.
campers and kombis.
Super VW Magazine Super VW/Service Abonnements
<French, monthly> 48-50 Bd Senard
$94/year (? $7.00/issue at 92210 St Cloud
U.S. stores) 350FF/year FRANCE
======================================================================
CAMPING (neat stuff for camping out in the boonies)
<nrubin@s1.csuhayward.edu> Solar Shower (black plastic bag to
Basic Designs, Inc. soak up heat from sun).
P. O. Box 2507 5 gallon size: $15
Santa Rosa, CA 95405 10 gallon size: $30
(707) 575-1220
(707) 578-0378 fax
credit cards accepted via phone
<nrubin@s1.csuhayward.edu> Stove to Go $40
Max Burton electric hot lunch box. 300 degrees.
502 Puyallup Ave. cooks rice in about 30 min.
Tacoma, WA 98421 120V/12V, 60hz, 125W, UL tested.
(206) 627-2665
credit cards accepted via phone
Patented Products Corporation electric (ac & dc & both)
ElectroWarmth Bed Warmer bed warmers. ask for Bob.
513 Market Street
P.O. Box A
Danville, Ohio 43014-0601
(614) 599-.6842 <nrubin@s1.csuhayward.edu>
Campmor all sorts of backpacking/camping stuff
P. O. Box 700-U free catalog: (800) 230-2151
Saddle River, NJ 07458-0700 retail store: Route 17, Paramus, NJ
(800) 226-7667 order line
Ranger Joe's army surplus gear: sleeping bags,
P.O.Box 2568 tents, ropes, uniforms, knives,
Columbus, GA 31902 ... all oriented toward the ex-army
4030 Victory Drive nuts. :)
Columbus, GA 31903
(800) 247-4541
(706) 689-0954 FAX
Camping World mostly geared toward Winnebago-buses,
Three Springs Road but lots of little 'stuff' that might
P. O. Box 90017 be useful to mini-busers.
Bowling Green, KY 42102-9017 free catalog: (800) 626-3636
(800) 626-5944 order line tech service: (800) 622-6264
(800) 334-3359 fax order line
Seattle Fabrics outdoor & recreational fabrics
3876 Bridge Way North special orders * shipping anywhere
Seattle WA, 98103 gore-tex, ultrex, supplex, lycra,
PH# (206) 632-6022 polartec, spnnaker, taffeta, ripstop,
Fax (206) 632-0881 oxford, packcloth, cordura, textilene,
canvas, mosquito netting, canvas,
closed cell foam, hardware, webbing,
heat sealable fabrics,
<puusital@adobe.com (Paul Uusitalo)>
Triad Magnetic Van Screens, Inc. magnetic screen for drivers &
4155 Friendship-Ledford Rd. passenger door (listed in JC Whitney)
Winston-Salem, NC 27107 and screen for sliding door with zipper
(910) 769-2427 down the middle. the sliding door
screen is custom made for vw's. it has
Front Windows (fibreglas) a magnetic tape on the borders and
VS109 Vanagon ...... $34.95 velcro wraps around the sliding hinge.
VB108 Bus .......... $34.95 i have the above for my westy and they
Side Windows (fibreglas) work great! they also make mag screen
VW203 Vanagon & Bus for rear hatch. also non-vw screens.
Sliding window ... $26.50/pr <cwebb@teleplex.net (Charles Webb)>
VC590 Vanagon Side door Jon Hathaway <jonr@empire.net>
w/Zipper ......... $51.86
Rear Hatches (fibreglas) Shipping Costs: 1 item .... $4.29
VW303 Bus .......... $47.03 2 items ... $4.67
VR302 Vanagon ...... $47.03 3 items ... $4.90
They will also custom make items as well....
Rex Eastman Camper pop-top canvas replacement
941 Hansen Avenue windows/screens are well constructed
Merced, CA 95340 about $125. slightly darker than
(209) 384-1910 khaki color.
rusty vanbondo <vanbondo@primenet.com
VW Canvas replacement camper pop-top canvas,
104 Hillcrest used to make pickup truck covers
La Vernia, TX 78121
(210) 779-2136
Derrick Gregg reproduction wood hoops and stays for
DG Enterprises pickup truck covers. about $200 for
43155 N. Sierra Hwy. Suite 24 hoops.
Lancaster, CA 93534
(805) 945-5622
California Import Parts reproduction Westfalia letters for
(store and warehouse) your pop-top,
7029 MacPherson Avenue specify colour Red, Black, Charcoal.
Burnaby, British Columbia
V5J 4N4
CANADA
Tel (604) 434-8300
FAX (604) 434-6306
California Import Parts
(mail order warehouse only, no counter sales)
1120 Yew Avenue
Blaine, Washington
98230
U.S.A
1-800-313-3811
======================================================================
going somewhere? then you'll need ...
MAPS
Map Link maps of the world, u.s., canada,
25 East Mason Street mexico, and nearly all other countries
Santa Barbara, CA 93101 around the globe, city maps, and some
(805) 965-4402 topological maps of the u.s., canada,
(800) 627-7768 FAX toll-free. mexico, france, britian, and some
catalog $3.00 others. neat stuff for map freaks.
Visa, MC, AMX, Discover accepted.
======================================================================
AWNINGS
<derekdrew@aol.com> Derek Drew
A&E Transawn 3000 in 10 foot length,
with optional Vanagon rain gutter mounts.
easy to put up and down.
optional screen room with safari panels (for privacy)
Northwest Tent & Awning side awnings for Vanagons & Eurovans.
(used to be Norseman Mfg.) no longer sell direct: call for dealers
14545 - 115 Ave., 10' Apollo - $455CDN (1990). adapter kit
Edmonton, Alberta was $39CDN.
Canada T5M 3B6 Vanagon mounts on raingutter. EV requires
(403) 451-6828 holes drilled in roof. :(
Harry Yates <hyates@bcit.bc.ca>
Michael Rensing <ahleatst@dataflux.bc.ca>
======================================================================
BIKE RACKS
Colorado Cyclist Catalog many bike racks
(800) 688-8600 (Doug McKnight <a-
dougmc@microsoft.com>)
Paulchen Bike rack for Eurovan and Vanagon
basic rack: $350 US made in germany. available in canada
4 pr skis: $100 US through
2 bicyles: $100 US Cowell Motors Ltd
Vancouver, BC
(604) 273.5208
designed to mount on rear hatch,
will carry up to four bikes.
modular with many attachments
Mark McCulley <raven@halcyon.com>
OWASCO Volkswagen Inc Paulchen bike racks, for the northern
1425 Dundas St. E. and Canadian types.
Whitby, Ontario
L1N 2K6
(905) 668-9383
(905) 668 9734 (fax)
1-800-263-2676 Dan Herbert <dan.herbert@utoronto.ca>
Rhode Gear model 'Super Shuttle' $90
fits all vehicles (that's the claim, anyway).
for Vanagons it's great!
(Scott Harvey <CNETSAH@mvs.oac.ucla.edu> 1981 Westfalia)
FASTRAK by Blackburn - i'd guess 50-75$ (i won it)
(Alexey Davies <hi@drmail.dr.att.com> 1982 Vanagon)
Yakima roof racks (800) 468-9000 tell them you are a consumer, seeking
(707) 826-8000 rack fit information.
("Erik Soule" <erik@henries.nsc.com>)
In the Colorado Cyclist Catalog Late Summer 1995 edition I came across
many racks. 1 800 688 8600
Doug McKnight <a-dougmc@microsoft.com>
Wyers StealthRak $69.99
Frame rests only on the bumper. Looks like it could be
used for bus front or rear. Holds up to three bikes.
This seems like the best designed unit for bus applications.
Hollywood $50
(Steven Johnson <sjohnson@pcocd2.intel.com> 1991 Westfalia)
Hollywood Rack F-1 Carrier $39.99
Mounts like you would think for a sedan. Pads rest on
trunk and bumper but also fits up against flat surface like
the back of a bus. Holds three bikes. Two straps connect
to lip of trunk by rear window and two to the underside of car.
I have used this on the rear of my bus and it works.
Takes some time before you feel comfortable as it seems as
though there's a lot of weight on the two top straps on upper
rain gutter. But it lasted from San Diego to Santa Fe, New
Mexico and back. Bungies help. For thirty more $$ I would
have picked StealthRak if I hadn't borrowed this unit for free.
Hollywood Rack F-5 Deluxe Carrier $59.99
Same as F-1 but with molded notches (cradles) for bike
placement.
Hollywood Rack SR-1 Spare Tire Rack $74.99
This would work for front of busses with spare tire.
Holds two bikes and adjusts laterally to center on wheel.
There are hitch racks as well. These run from $129.99 to $199.99 and
come in two, three or four bike capacity.
-----------------------------------------
18 Sep 95, eugp@uclink3.berkeley.edu (Eugene C. Palmer)
Though this is not directly VW related, but I thought I would post the
results of my survey of Interbike '95's bike carriers. Plus, I visited
Gene
Bergs shop and got a tour.
First, the bike carriers. I may have missed some, but I found no less
then
16 manufacturers of bike carriers. I didn't bother describing all the
configurations, much less the addresses and phone numbers of each
company.
I figured if you were interested you could do additional research.
Hollywood, receiver and rear mounts
BackPacker, receiver mount
Draftmaster, designed for vans so the bikes mount vertically on the back,
I
think they were receivers. Also used by racers because of the ease of
getting to the bike on the run. I saw a tandem mount also.
Rhode Gear, Bumper/license plate and receiver mounts
Sport
RoofRax
AutoMaxi, roof mounts
Cycle Transfer (by Advent/Service Cycle) looks like a copy of others
under a
different name.
Allen
OSI
BDI, rear mount on license plate/bumper
RedRock, Swagman and Rak-N-Lok lines, both receiver and ball hitch
mounts.
Rak-N-Lok line uses a gas shock system to help lifting the rack away for
rear mount access. They also have one that uses the spare tire mount.
Freidl
Zap
Grabber, bumper/license plate, receiver and ball hitch mounts. This
model
was diplayed by alot of distributors.
Bard-Wyers
Now I'm sorry I didn't do a more complete survey, but it was too much.
Most
of these are van mount type systems and alot of regular roof carriers
were
not represented, such as Yakima.
Other cool things at the Bike show were several folding, or breakaway
bikes
(that reduce the need for a rack). The Moulton was fabulous, though
expensive. Also the Bike Friday, Dahon, Montague, Salsa breakaway.
Santana
also had a breakaway tandem displayed.
======================================================================
TOWING (trailer hitches, Trailers, etc.)
Hitches................................................................
<jwalker@ua1vm.ua.edu & gsker@lenti.med.umn.edu>
RIGID HITCH Hitches and Accessories
Rigid Hitch, Inc. (612) 888-1155
9216 Grand Ave. S. trailer hitch for vanagons; mounts on rear
Bloomington, MN tow hooks
1000 lb weight, 100 lb tongue weight
<smitht@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca>
Don Valley VW (Toronto, Ontario, Canada)
Don Valley VW mounts to frame, bumper remounts on hitch.
(416) 751-3131 2000 lb weight, 200 lb tongue weight
<John.Pinkham@lambada.oit.unc.edu>
U-Haul (made by Valley?) 1500 lb weight
$109 installed
Recycled Inc (Parts Place?) these guys had trailer hitches for all
2300 N. Opdyke Rd. bus years listed in their catalog.
Auburn Hills, MI 48326
(810) 373-2300 Phone Hours: M-F 0830-1830, Sat 0900-1600
(810) 373-5950 FAX
Da-lan rated at 1500 lbs.
somewhere in Massachusetts
Lightweight Travel Trailers.............................................
<From: JUSTINA@osage.astate.edu for the rv mailing list, 94/08>
TrailManor
P.O. Box 130C
Lake City, TN 37769
Phone: (615) 426-7426
Send $9.95 for VHS tape. Ultra LW hard sided "bifold" trailer. Be
prepared for sticker shock!
TowLite Inc.
25 Walnut Street
Lexington, Ohio 44904
Phone: (800) 321-6402
Two piece hard sided "telescoping" design.
Sun-Lite Inc.
P.O. Box 517
Bristol, Indiana 46507
(800) 327-7684
Roof section cranks up and down like pop-up.
ABI Leisure Products
726 Broad Street
Box 10 Dunnville
Ontario, Canada N1A 2X1
(416) 774-8891
All aluminum Award series trailers. If you like luxury and don't
mind the price tag, it's one to look at!
Jayco Inc.
P.O. Box 460
Middlebury, Indiana 46540
(219) 825-5861
Ask for info on Eagle SL series. Aluminum frame construction.
Fleetwood Enterprises, Inc.
P.O. Box 7638
Riverside, CA 92513-7638
(800) 444-4905 (Prowler)
Ask for info on the Prowler, Wilderness, or Resort XT-1 series
trailers. Built like the Jayco's.
======================================================================
AIR CONDITIONING
Cooler Air owner: Jerry West
Rockwall, Texas Air Conditioning units for buses and
(just east of Dallas) other vw's, parts as well as installed
(214) 771-3791 uses Sankyo compressors (doesn't need
as much HP to run)
======================================================================
HEAT!!! (How to stay warm in winter, extra heaters, etc.)
GASOLINE AUXILLIARY HEATERS
---------------------------
Automotive Heater Technology, Inc. new and used auto gas heaters,
Ark Mirvis German and American; remanufatured
31 Byram Bay Road and new Eberspacher and Webasto heaters;
Hopatcong, NJ 07843 repair service; one-year guarantee.
(201) 398-6363
WEBASTO very expensive ($1400US),
CANADA: available for gasoline or diesel,
Webasto Thermosystems Ltd. programmable timers, thermostats
4450 Mainway available as options.
Burlington, ONTARIO L7L 5Y5 models:
(416) 335-4143 HL18 (gas/dsl) 6,000 btu
(416) 335-6958 FAX 0.053 gal/hr
HL24 (dsl only) 8,000 btu
USA: 0.07 gal/hr
Webasto Thermosystems, Inc. HL32 (dsl only) 11,000 btu
1598 East Lincoln Blvd. 0.10 gal/hr
Madison Heights, MI 48071
(313) 545-8770
(313) 545-8773 FAX
Thomas Johnson rsthj@aurora.alaska.edu
341 Brandt St Apt.1 gasoline heater & parts
Fairbanks, Alaska 99701
(907) 456-1082
Espar suppliers of old gasoline heaters and
(800) 387-4800 USA parts (Eberspacher); free tech and
(800) 668-5676 Canada owners manual for old heaters.
a few local suppliers:
Vermont: PPD 802-644-6554
New York: Cook Brothers 607-723-7481
New Jersey: Edison 908-985-0331
From: rvanness@neuron.uchc.edu (Ron Van Ness)
Suburban NT-12S furnace 12,000 BTU heater (furnace) for the
Suburban Manufacturing Company Eurovan/Winnebago camper
P.O. Box 399
Dayton, Tennessee 37321
(423) 775-2131
PROPANE CATALYTIC HEATERS
-------------------------
Thermal Systems Incorporated U.S. Catalytic Corporation
2757 29th Street S.W. 870-K Napa Valley Corporate Way
Tumwater, WA 98502 Napa, CA 94558
(206) 352-0539 (707) 255-4181
vented catalytic heater, 6000 BTU, $279. 28"x16"x4".
David Garth <dgarth@cymbal.aix.calpoly.edu> has one in his 86 camper.
VENTED PROPANE HEATER:
The heater is a PROPEX COMPACT 1600 it measures a mere 14 inches long,
6inches wide and 4.5 inches deep. It fits beautifully underneath the
rear bench seat in a Westy and is a snap to install. The heater itself
costs around $500 and comes complete with all you need (other than the
copper pipe to link up with the propane bottle), ONE WORD OF WARNING
before I forget, make sure when you order the heater to ask for an 8mm
down to quarter inch adaptor! It seems that the standard European pipe
size to and from the propane tank is 8mm and I couldn t find it anywhere
in the US, (its all quarter inch only here it seems). The heater comes
complete with a thermostat (real snazzy) that sits on the wardrobe of a
Westy at around head height (supplied plenty of cable to go elsewhere if
you so desire), it is just like a household unit but smaller and in a
high tech black case. On the thermostat itself there is also a small
rocker type switch that switches the heater on/off manually, or switches
on the fan only for cooling or leaves the unit on controlled by the
thermostat. The heater also has a control box that sits under the seat
that monitors the vehicle battery condition as well as the actual burner
unit in the heater. The control box will switch off the heater when
either the flame goes out (or the battery becomes sufficiently
discharged) shutting off the propane supply and putting the heater in
standby mode! Output of the heater is about equivalent to a good fan
heater and is plenty warm enough to heat a Westy (even with the top up
in Alaska). The real beauty of the unit is it is incredibly miserly on
propane I wish the fridge was half as good. Dont waste your time with
extra propane bottles for the heater you will not need them, a better
investment is a twin battery conversion so you can leave the heater on
all the time when its really cold. The fan in the unit is quite
powerful and will circulate the heat around the van real well, I opted
for a second battery conversion and put all my camping gear directly to
it and it works out great for the heater.
FITTING THE HEATER:
As I said the heater is 14 inches long, 6 inches wide and four and a
half inches deep. If you look at it from the top on one end you have
the propane inlet connection (0.25 inche copper pipe - via 8mm adaptor)
and at the other end of the heater you have two large (2.75 inch) air
inlet and hot air outlets. On the bottom of the unit you have two
(1inch) exhaust inlet and outlet pipes. My heater is fitted so that
when viewed from above it is sitting length ways under the rear seat of
the Westy (with the hot air outlet to the center of the vehicle). The
heater comes with a length of (2.75inch) black plastic heater pipe and
two black plastic circular rotating grills that you can mount in the
wood under the rear seat.
The two exhaust outlets require you to drill through the floor of the
vehicle, the outlets are of sufficient length as to pass through both
the wooden base of the seat as well as the floor of the vehicle. Once
you have drilled the floor of the vehicle and placed the heater in the
seat well the heater exhausts will pertrude though the underside of the
vehicle at least an inch, this makes the job of sealing the holes and
connecting the flexible exhaust pipes a snap! There are two exhaust
pipes to fit to the underside, one outlet and one inlet, and CAUTION is
advised here. Once you identify the EXHAUST OUTLET you must route it to
the outside of the vehicle (many do not!), there are plenty of places to
anchor it near the jacking points at the rear of the van. The air
intake is OK mounted anywhere away from the exhaust .
NOTE: When you order the unit see if you can get a little Mushroom cover
for the exhaust outlet, it saves the exhaust outlet getting full of snow
and mud etc.
PROPEX (UK) LTD Tel. 011-44 (1703) 528555
CAMPION HOUSE
LINCOLN ROAD
LEADENHAM
LINCOLN, LN5 OPE
ENGLAND
Chris P. Gibbs <cpgibbs@ptialaska.net>
will answer questions at (907) 225-5057
======================================================================
COOL!!! (How to stay cool in summer, fans, coolers, etc.)
Swamp Coolers
---------------------------
Allied Trailer Supply 4 models of Swamp Coolers. the C102
1050 Elcamino Ave fits between the seats of a bug, and
Sacramento, CA 95815 the T154 fits buses as well.
(916) 922-3487 smitht@unb.ca (Tim Smith)
======================================================================
INSULATION - Noise Reduction
3M product number 08883, Rubberized Undercoating.
available from automobile body shops and body shop suppliers.
20 oz spray can (about five cans needed to do one bus). costs
about $7 per can. sprayed on the large flat areas of metal skin
from the interior (after removing the interior panels).
Dan Codella SF Bay Area Distributor for Soundcoat
CMG Premier (Mfg Rep) (self-adhesive foam, used to deaden the
960 Saratoga Avenue noises made by big sheet-metal enclosure
s,
San Jose, CA 95129 like buses. :)
Phone (408) 248 3890 standard 2' x 4-1/2' sheet, 3/4" thick
FAX (408) 985 0832 costs about $25-30.
special 2-layer stuff for vehicles,
with emphasis on road-noise, is $50/sheet.
Soundcoat
Eastern Facility Western Facility
1 Burt Drive 3002 Croddy Way
Deer Park Santa Ana, CA 92799-5990
Long Island, NY 11729-5701 (714) 979-0834
(516) 242 2200
======================================================================
CAMPER RENTALS
Germany ---------------------------------------------
Deutsche Reisemobil rates are 2,740 DM for 20 days (if you
22850 Hamburg-Norderstedt rent the mid-season). you pay fuel and
Segeberger Chaussee 3 first 1,000 DM of any accident that is
Fax: (49) 40-52-48-66-8 your fault.
Tel: (49) 40-52-01-84-71 pickup points are in:
Hamburg, Berlin, Duesseldorf,
Frankfurt,
Stuttgart and Munich.
Netherlands (Holland) -------------------------------
Campanje Tel. (31)30 - 44 70 70
P.O. Box 9332 Fax (31)30 - 42 09 81
3506 GH Utrecht run by mom & pop dutch couple. deal
Netherlands mostly in late model Vanagons. all
paperwork is handled by them and it's
<fly into Amsterdam> a very simple process.
dan.clay@ggcs.org (Dan Clay)
Cars & Campers Tel. (31)30 - 08 54 59
Krugerstraat 6 K.v.K Utrecht Fax (31)30 - 93 71 63
3531 AP Utrecht Donna Turner, "Alias Smith & Williard"
Netherlands leases vw campers (since 1972). will
also sell (for vacation/export).
fitted out camper van with sleeping
and cooking facilities (vanagon) costs
about 3500DFL or $2100.
<fly into Amsterdam> <from LiMBO Newsletter, Mar/Apr 1996>
Canada ----------------------------------------------
Autobahn Leasing and Rentals, Inc. part of Southgate Volkswagen
5220 Calgary Trail North rents Eurovan CV campers.
Edmonton, AB T6H 4J7
(403) 434-8511
fax (403) 437-7602
United States ---------------------------------------
Roamin' Holiday Westfalia camper rentals
P.O. Box 40182
Albuquerque, NM 87196
(800) 969-8040
(505) 869-8040
$210 3-day minimum/limited mileage (330 free miles*)
$490 7-day/limited mileage (770 free miles*)
$595 7-day/unlimited mileage option (one-week minimum)
$70 each additional day (110 free miles*).
* additional miles at .20 cents per mile
CDR (Collision Deductible Reduction) - $10/day
VIP (Vacation Interruption Protection) - $10/day
All Westfalias are water-cooled with complete camper package.
Clean, non-smoking vehicles.
Other types of motorhomes may be available (ask for info).
Included at no extra charge for use during trip:
Campground directory, maps, tour books, miscellaneous travel
guides and novels from our lending library, first aid kit,
flashlight, fire extinquisher, and a few other small items.
Housekeeping kit: blankets, towels, sheets, pots & pans,
dishware, etc. at $35/person per trip.
Free shuttle service to and from Albuquerque International
Airport between our office, or to motel/hotel
(a fair number of folks stay over a night in Albuquerque,
and rather than camp stay at a hotel/motel)
Free luggage storage, advice on sights to see and things to
avoid.
Major credit cards accepted.
All rental prices, policies, and conditions subject to change
without notice. Early booking discounts.
VW Camper sales for extended trips (with buy-back agreement
if desired). call for details.
VAC Group Westfalia Rentals
American Safari Rent-A-Camper (? same place)
21042 Laguna Canyon rd. (hwy 133)
Laguna Beach CA 92651
(714) 497-0626
Prices:
$62/day for Standard
$72/day for Luxury * (I have to laugh; and I quote:
'Luxury vehicles are newer models equipped w/
water-cooled engines')
Three days min.; 100 miles/day free w/ 1,000 free miles max.
per trip. $0.19/mile over free miles.
Additional camping set (includes sleeping bags, sheets,
pillows, cases, hand towels, bath towels, cook set, utensils,
cutlery, plastes, cups, can opener, matches, & first aid kit)
$50/trip.
Sorin Bejenaru Westfalia Rentals
103164.3373@compuserve.com 86-90 models
(818) 240-0499 Los Angles area
(415) 665-1558 San Francisco area
No other info available
Adventurewerks Westfalia rentals in Seattle, WA,
Bellingham, WA Phoenix, AZ, and Salt Lake City,
1-800-RENT-VWS (800-736-8897) UT.
http://www.nas.com/^adwerks/ for rates and info.
Classic Westfalias (Bay window buses from the 70's) ...
Weekly with 1000 miles: $350.
Weekly w/unlimited miles: $450.
91 Vanagon GL Westfalias ...
Weekly with 1000 miles: $500.
Weekly with 1750 miles: $625.
Weekly w/unlimited miles: $725.
Daily and Monthly rates are also available, as well as airport pickup.
======================================================================
ENGINE SWAPS (say you want a little more horsepower? ...)
MSDS (Martin Schneider Designed Systems)
2643 Rosemead BL. Porsche engine kits for vanagons/buses,
South El Monte, CA 91733
(818) 448-8726
Fax: (818) 448-0706
Kennedy Engineered Products Porsche engine adapter kits
38830 17th St. East
Palmdale, CA 93550
(805) 272-1147
RaceKraft High-Performance waterboxer engines
3915 Illini St. (for off-road racing)
Phoenix, AZ 85040 John Isaacs
(602) 437-2382
======================================================================
SEATS. want a more comfortable cushion for your caboose??
Vendors:
Isringhausen
http://www.tracnet.com/morgan/
2741 Skeena St
Vancouver, British Columbia
Canada V5M 3Y6
Phon 604-433-7139
Fax 604-433-8531
Pilote
Sportscraft
Recaro
Keiper Recaro GmbH & Co.
Buechelstr. 54-58
D-????? Remscheid
Germany
Management:
Dr. Peter Paul Moll (Chief executive)
SIC Codes:
371 Motor Vehicles and Equipment
Reseller(?):
Flofit
127 Business Center Drive #B
Corona, CA 91720
1-800-FLO-FITS
Mr FLofit@aol.com, http://www.flofit.com
Aftermarket seats. Note that FloFit changed ownership in 1995,
and claim to have improved their quality, using the same mfging
processes as Recaro at 1/3 the price. Seats carry a 30 day no faul t
return policy and a full TWO YEAR WARRANTY.
I have no feedback from the web about these reengineered seats.
(This is found on a FAQ list somewhere)
Redealers:
Reisemobile
Reisemobile Lyding GmbH
Westerweide 41
D-????? Witten-Herbede
Reisemobil
Reisemobil- und Caravanausstatter GmbH
Josef-Baumann-Strasse 23
D-????? Bochum-Gerthe
Berger
Fritz Berger GmbH
Regerstrasse 2
Postfach 11 60
D-????? Neumarkt / Opf.
Reimo
Reimo GmbH
Boschring 10
D-????? Engelsbach
Westfalia
Westfalia - Werke
Franz Knoebel + Soehne KG
Am Sandberg 45
Postfach 26 40
D-????? Rheda - Wiedenbr=FCck
<zeidler@ntcntg02du.ntc.nokia.com (Zeidler Helmut)>
======================================================================
OXYGEN SENSORS
1-wire Oxygen sensor replacement:
<from jwalker@ua1vm.ua.edu (Joel Walker)>
try your local auto parts dealer for a 'universal 1-wire'. it costs
about $40, but does not have any connectors on the wire. you'll have
to splice it to your original connector.
3-Wire Oxygen sensor replacements:
----------------------------------
<from macklow@sybase.com (Jim Macklow)>
Ford Parts Dept. oxygen sensor replacement
On the receipt: 0258-003-913 3-wire Oxy sensor $65.19
On the box were the numbers: 610328 021 13913. 13913 were also in big
numbers on the end of the box. This oxy sensor is for Ford/Mercury
cars, and does not have the correct plug, so you have to use the
connector from your old sensor.
======================================================================
HEAD GASKETS - Wassboxer 1983-1991 Vanagons
Hints for those D-I-Yers: get the whole Head gasket set, my FLAPS carry
"Victor Reinz" P/N# 025 198 012 B
this came with everything for one Head on either a 1.9 or 2.1 liter
engines,
including the VW OEM sealer for the head and the yellow OEM type lock-
tight
sealer for the Head cap nuts... even has the copper o-ring for the
coolant
drain plugs... Very complete! Jon Hathaway <JonR40@AOL.COM>
======================================================================
EXHAUST PARTS
Autocaravan sell stainless exhausts for all VWs. A silencer and tailpipe
for a
2-litre motor cost about 150 pounds. I don't know about the other bits.
They
have agents all over the place but the address of the main office is:
Autocavan Stainless steel exhausts for all VWs.
103 Lower Weybourne Lane example:
Badshot Lea silencer & tailpipe for 2.0 liter bus
Farnham costs about 150 pounds.
Surrey
England telephone: 0252 333891
======================================================================
TRANSMISSION STUFF
Hard shifting? Try changing the transmission oil.
BG Synchroshift from BG Products
Wichita, KS
======================================================================
BRAS for Buses
Your Mama's Bra Company 74301.2203@Compuserve.com
(206) 783-1779 Custom Bras for 1950-67 Type IIs
VW Dealer custom bras for 1980-1991 Vanagons.
Eurovans? about $90.
Rocky Mountain Motorworks 1973-79 Buses - about $80
(800) 258-1996 1969-72 Buses - about $80
West Coast Metric Covercraft bras for most years
(800) 247-3202 except Eurovans.
======================================================================
FLOOR MATS
<From: "Norman Leong" (norman_leong@engtwomac.synoptics.com)>
Someone last week asked about floormats, so here's my contribution
to the search:
Lloyd Design Group (818) 768-6001
8435 Telfair Ave.
Sun Valley, CA 91352
For the Vanagons they make a 1,2, or 3 piece floormat set
(I hear the 1 piece is the one to get) for the front. Depending
on whether you have the forward facing bench or the rear facing
captains, there is a rear passenger floormat set that will fit.
Lastly, they also make a mat to cover the rear cargo area.
Now for the bad news: They (Lloyd) only sell to VW dealers,
repair shops, and independent parts/service dealers, so you may
have to search around for these mats (or samples to look at).
======================================================================
** SILVER SOCKET ** if you have a strange-looking silver socket on your
bus/vanagon dash, it is a German accessory socket
(used pretty much as we use the cigarette lighter
socket). and here's some folks with other stuff
for it.
The Trim Shop (800) 966-7791
4112 North 25th Street (602) 955-7791
Phoenix, AZ 85016 (602) 381-0933 fax
12 Volt Dash Panel Accessories
Does your car have this jack?
We are often asked about this part...what is it for? Do you
have anything that plugs into it? Well, now you are in luck! The
Trim Shop has a complete line of accessories that plug into the
original (European-type) 12 volt accessory jack:
*Trouble Lamp - a drop light with a cord. Enough to change a tire
or check your engine. Also comes with universal plug that will
work with any cigarette lighter plug. Intro Price: $35
*Reading Lamp - For that extra light you sometimes need for a map,
or just to find stuff in the front seat. $22
*Plug Socket - If your car didn't have this connector, or you want
to add an extra in the engine or luggage compartment. $17.50
*Angle Plug - This plug will fit flat against your dash. Use with
any 12 volt accessory such as a tire pump, cell phone, or
spot light. $8
*Straight Plug - Same as Angle Plug, except not with angle. $8
*Universal Plug - This connector will fit the dash socket and it
will also fit into a standard cigarette lighter socket $12
======================================================================
SPEEDOMETER - Trip Odometer/Odometer quit working.
--------------------------------------------
usually (?) caused by repeated resetting of the trip odometer while
the vehicle is in motion (even if it is just rolling). most places
want to replace the entire speedometer head or repair the whole thing
for about $100-250. if you want to try to fix it yourself, check this
place:
Pacific Parts and Instruments VDO trip odometer gear replacements
North Hollywood, CA for $2.00.
(818) 761-5139. also H-4 reflectors, bulbs,
VDO, Cibie, Hella, etc. products
Overseas Speedometer Rick Borth
100 Wallis Drive
Austin, TX 78746
(800) 444-0292 overseas@speedometer.com
(512) 239-8200 www.speedometer.com
(512) 306-0276
======================================================================
TIRES check out http://www.tirerack.com
--------------------------------------------
Microbuses, 1963-1967 (from Bentley book)
3/4-Ton Payload
4-1/2 K x 15 Rims
6.40-15 Tires, 4 ply rating
1-Ton Payload (including Firetruck)
5 JK x 14 Rims
7.00-14 Tubeless Tires, 6 ply rating
--------------------------------------------
(All Models, Buses and Vanagons, 1968-1991)
REGULAR TIRES
Plies/Load Range/
Max PSI/
Tire Size Max Weight Comments
---------------------- ---------- ------------ ----------------------
BF Goodrich
All-Terrain TA LT 27x8.50 14 5/C/50/1515 camper: loves them;
Triguard Sidewall (3+2 tread, 3 sidewall) stiff, somewhat
noisey;
radial (also known as "Baja Commanders") good handling; higher
Baja Champions? ground clearance
Bridgestone
RD-603 LT 185R14ST D 6/D/65/1850 Nice and stable;
(marked "8 ply") Too early to know
(2+2 tread, 2 sidewall) wearing qualities.
beautiful handling,
no wander.
Dunlop
SP LT5 Tubeless 185R15 6/C/??/???? ???
LT5 185/75R14 ?/D/55/???? good handling
Goodyear Aquatread P205/70R14 4/*/44/???? *Standard Load
Treadwear 340
Traction A / Temp B
Great hi/lo speed
handling esp when wet
Goodyear Interceptor P215/70R14 4/*/44/????
Kelly
Safari All-Terrain 850x27R14 ?/?/??/???? ???
Michelin
XA4 M+S 215/70/14 ?/?/35/????
XCH4 LT 195/75R14 6/C/50/1453 good handling
nice feel
XZX Reinforced 185/70SR14 6/?/40/1540 Good (imho)
MXL Reinforced 205/70R14 6/B/40/???? 1 = Good
1 = Horrid (squirrely
MXT Reinforced 205/70R14 7/?/50/1709 1=good grip,stable
Sears
Trailhandler A-T LT195-75R14 6/C/50/???? 1 = horrid high speed
1 = good all round
Trailhandler APT 195/75R14 6/C/50/???? Good+ (so far)
40k warranty
Summit
Trail Climbers LT 205/75R14 ?/C/65/???? good traction, good
stability
good cornering.
Uniroyal
Laredo 195/75R14 6/C/50/???? open tread all-season
OK (lowish) noise
Handling ??, only 1
mounted, doesn't
wallow;
full set: quiet, good
handling, cheap price.
Yokohoma
Radial 371 A-II ? 6/?/??/???? long wearing
Y370LT 195/75R14 ?/D/53/1700 quiet, smooth, tough,
excellent
wear/handling
------------------------------------------------------------------------
SNOW TIRES
Plies/Load Range/
Max PSI/
Tire Size Max Weight Comments
---------------------- ---------- ------------ ----------------------
Pirelli
Winter190 195/70R14 4/?/??/???? stiff, don't squirm
Nokia
Hakkapeliitta 10 M+S 195/70R14 5/B/44/1356 tires have a rotation
arrow, so they must
be mounted correctly
------------------------------------------------------------------------
this is all the owners manual/bentley book specifies for vanagons:
185 R 14 C
7.00-14 8 PR
185 SR 14 Reinforced
205/70 R 14
------------------------------------------------------------------------
For tires using the P-metric designation (e.g., P245/50ZR16)
Format: [Code][Width]/[Aspect][Speed][Construction][Size]
Code:
P = Passenger LT = Light truck
T = Temporary LTP = Light truck, personal use
Width:
Width at widest point, sidewall to sidewall, in millimeters
Aspect: the Aspect Ratio, ratio of tire sidewall height to tread width.
Tire height in mm, measured tread to bead, divided by width above,
multiplied by one hundred.
Speed: Speed Ratings, the maximum speed the tire can maintain
at its maximum load rating.
Q - 100 mph H - 130 mph
R - 106 mph V - 149 mph
S - 112 mph W - 168 mph
T - 118 mph Z - more than 168 mph
U - 124 mph
Construction:
R - Radial ply
B - Bias belted
D - Diagonal bias
Size:
The diameter of the wheel the tire is designed to be mounted on,
in inches.
Other information:
Maximum Air Pressure - This is the max pressure the tire is designed
to hold (note this is more than the recommended
inflation pressure)
Maximum Load - Weight the tire can support
Load Index - A code that indicates the maximum weight the
tire can carry at its speed indicated by its
speed rating
Construction - Tells the number and type of plies used in the
construction of the tread and sidewall
DOT Serial Number - Identifies the plant, manufacturer, and date of
production
Tread Wear Index - A rating of the tire's resistance to wear.
100 is the reference. A 250 rating indicates
2.5 times the wear resistance of the reference
tire. This number cannot be accurately
translated to mileage.
Traction Index - A rating of the tire's ability to stop on wet
pavement. There are three grades, A, B, and C,
with A being the best. This index does not
reflect the tire's traction performance on dry,
snowy, or icy pavement.
Temperature Index - A rating of the tire's ability to dissipate
and resist heat. There are three grades, A, B,
and C, with A being the best.
Bren Smith <bren@ccnet.com>
========================================================================
Solar Equipment Suppliers
Alternative Solar Products Backwoods Solar
27420 Jefferson Avenue, 8530 Rapid Lightning Creek Road
Suite 104B Sandpoint, ID 83864
Temecula, CA 952590-26668 (208) 263-4290
(800) 229-SOLAR (229-7652)
Camping World Photocomm, Inc.
Three Springs Road 930 Idaho Maryland Road, D3
Bowling Green, KY 42102 Grass Valley, CA 95945
(800) 626-5944 (800) 544-6466
Real Goods RV Solar Electric
966 Mazzoni Street 14415 N. 73rd Street
Ukiah, CA 95482-3471 Scottsdale, AZ 85260
(800) 762-7325 (800) 999-8520
Siemens Solar Industries Solar Electric Specialties
4650 Adohr Lane P.O. Box 537
Camarillo, CA 93010 Willits, CA 95490
(800) 233-1106 (800) 344-2003
Star Power Energy Systems Sunlight Energy Corporation
28121 Front Street 4411 W. Echo Lane
Temecula, CA 92590 Glendale, AZ 85302
(909) 699-1855 (800) 338-1781
United Solar Systems
1100 W. Maple Road
Troy, MI 48084
(313) 362-4170
Solar Electric 1-800-842-5678
======================================================================
DUAL/AUX BATTERY Installation Electrical
42
Wrangler Power Products <derekdrew@aol.com>
P O Box 12109 really good catalog, information for
Prescott, AZ 86304 this project.
(800) 962-2616
(602) 717-1771
======================================================================
(All Models, Buses and Vanagons, 1968-1991)
SPARK PLUGS:
Air-cooled engine, codes B, AE (1968-1971)
Bentley Book FLAPS
Beru 145/14
Bosch W145T1
Champion L88A
NGK B5HS
BR5HS (resistor)
Air-cooled engine, codes CB, CD, AW (1972-1974)
Bentley Book FLAPS
Beru 145/14/3
Bosch W145T2
Champion N88
NGK B5ES
BR5ES (resistor)
Air-cooled engine, codes ED, GD, GE (1975-1979)
Bentley Book FLAPS
Beru 145/14/3L
Bosch W145M2 W8CC
W8CO W7DTC <3-pronged>
Champion N288 N11YC
N5C <replaced N288>
NGK B5ES
BR5ES (resistor)
Air-cooled engine, code CV (1980-1983, California models included)
Bentley Book FLAPS
Autolite 394 or 404
Beru 145/14/3L
Bosch W145M2 W8CC
W8CO W7DTC <3-pronged>
Champion N288 N11YC
N5C <replaced N288>
NGK BR5ES
BP6ET <3-pronged>
Water-cooled engine, code DH (1983-1985 Digijet models)
Bentley Book FLAPS
Autolite 403
Beru 14L-7C
Bosch W7CO W7CCO
W7DTC <3-pronged>
Champion N288 N11YC
N5C <replaced N288>
NGK BR6ES
BP6ET <3-pronged>
Water-cooled engine, code MV (1986-1991 Digifant models)
Bentley Book FLAPS
Autolite 403
Beru 14L-7CU
14L-7C
Bosch W7CCO W7CCO
W7DTC <3-pronged>
Champion N288 N11YC
N5C <replaced N288>
NGK BR6ES
BP6ET <3-pronged>
GLOW PLUGS:
Water-cooled engine, code CS (1982-1983 Diesel models) **Glow Plugs**
Bentley Book FLAPS
AC 31G
Autolite 1104
Bosch 0250-201-021
0250-201-032
Champion CH69
NGK Y901R
======================================================================
REKEYING VW DOOR LOCKS
<William Warburton, w.warburton@edinburgh.ac.uk> 2 May 1994
Each lock has a cylinder with eight sprung brass inserts. If the
correct key is inserted they are moved into the cylinder so that the
edges are flush and the cylinder can then be rotated, unlocking the
door. To set up the lock you will need a collection of these inserts
so that you can match them up against the key you want to use. Get a
few locks from a scrapyard by removing the whole handle/catch & take
them apart at home to get the inserts and to get a handle on how they
come to bits.
The front door handles can be removed by undoing a pair of allen bolts
which are accessible after removing the interior door trim. The lock
cylinder has a tab at the end which performs the locking and can be
removed by undoing a philips screw. To remove the cylinder undo the very
small grub screw (which protrudes (inside) into a track in the cylinder,
limiting the movement of the cylinder). this screw is at the inboard end
of the cylinder (and may have fallen out!). When you put the tab back
on the cylinder remember which way round it goes (mine point forward).
The back hatch catch is held by a single phillips screw at the bottom
(again, under the trim). It has a similar grub screw to locate the lock
cylinder.
The sliding door mechanism varies with year, on mine ('71) the lock
cylinder is in the handle and the whole thing comes apart be removing
the philips screw in the middle of the inside handle (with grub screw
retaining the cylinder) later models have a seperate lock below the
handle which works in the same manner as the other locks. I can't
remember how you get it out but I think it is quite clear once the
trim is off.
Once you have dismantled a lock & have the cylinder in front of you
you can slide a key in & see the way that the brass inserts move (four
from each side). To match a key you find an insert which has the slot
in the correct place for the key you want to use and place it in the
appropriate slot. If it is too deep (or shallow) then compare it to
your spare inserts until you find one that looks right & try it instead.
If you are short a couple of pieces then you can miss out an insert
(which means that the location is wildcarded, any key will fit it so it
is less secure). In the extreme you could have a cylinder with no
inserts & open it with a coin. You may need to replace some of the
springs (or stretch them slightly) to get the inserts to move properly.
The cylinders are *NOT* all the same! If you need to replace any of
the cylinders you'll need to be a bit picky about where the replacement
comes from (ie you can't replace a door lock cylinder with a tailgate
cylinder).
I didn't touch my ignition lock, I used it as the master & matched all
the other locks to it. If you have an odd ignition key but everything
else matches, what a Bummer! I don't know anything about changing the
ignition switch :-(
======================================================================
ELECTRICAL POWER CONSUMPTION (how much does it take to run my ... )
Consumer Average Watts Consumed
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Continuous Usage B1 B2 B3
Ignition 20W 20W 40W
Electric Fuel Pump 50-70W - -
Electronic Fuel Injection 70-100W - -
Prolonged Usage
Car Radio (not custom) 10-15W 10-15W 10W
Instrument Panel Lamps 2W each 2W each -
License-plate Lamp(s) 10W each 10W each 10W
Tail Lamps 5W each 5W each -
License-Plate & Tail Lamps - - 25W
Side Marker Lamps 4W each 4W each 7W
Parking Lamp 3-5W each 3-5W each -
Headlights, lower beam 55W each 55W each 90W
Headlights, upper beam 60W each 60W each -
Vehicle heater 20-60W 20-60W 50W
Brief Usage
Turn-Signal Lamps 21W each 21W each 6W
Stop Lamps 18-21W each 18W each 11W
Interior Lamps 5W 5W each 5W
Power Windows 150W - -
Electric Radiator Fan 200W - 25W
Blower Fan Heat/Cool 80W 80W -
Heated Rear Window 120W 120W 34W
Rear Window Wiper 30-65W - -
Horns and Fanfares 25-40W each 25-40W each -
Electric Antenna 60W - -
Fog Lamps 35-55W each 35W each 20W
Fog Warning Lamp (rear) - 35W 2W
Backup Lamp 21-25W - -
Windshield Wipers 60-90W 90W 5W
Starter Motor for 800-3000W 800-3000W -
Passenger cars
Wash-Wipe system for 60W - -
Headlamps
Cigarette Lighter 100W 100W -
Auxiliary Driving Lamps 55W each - -
Supplementary Brake Lights 21W each - -
Glow Plugs for Starting 100W each 100W each -
(for Diesel cars only)
--------------------------
sources:
B1 - Automotive Electric/Electronic Systems
Robert Bosch GmbH, 1988
available from Robert Bentley Publishers
B2 - Automotive Handbook (1st English Edition)
Robert Bosch GmbH, 1976
available from ?? (used to be from Classic Motorbooks)
B3 - Automotive Handbook (3st English Edition)
Robert Bosch GmbH, 1993
available from Robert Bentley Publishers
=====================================================================
OIL NOTES
Summary and Data Synthetic Oils
===============================
Note from editor of this article:
---------------------------------
I collected several articles on synthetic oil which seem to contain
more fact than opinions.
I went through the trouble to verify some of these facts, and also
added the data for the new Castrol Syntec.
The conclusion is that synthetic engine oils are indeed better than
regular oils, though you may not use your car in such a way to get
full benefit of the oil.
Even a good quality mineral oil changed at regular intervals (around
3000 miles or 5000 km seems to be the norm) for average use will allow
most car engines to last well beyond other components' useful lives.
The first article is an excellent detailed technical description on oils,
followed by a couple additional notes derived from another posting.
Jan Vandenbrande jan@ug.eds.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: behanna@syl.nj.nec.com (Chris BeHanna)
Subject: REPOST: Comprehensive Oil Article (Was: Re: Synthetic oils:
better than, say, Castrol GTX?
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 93 06:40:32 GMT
dylan@cs.washington.edu (Dylan McNamee) writes:
>Addressing the original question, which is better, Castrol GTX changed
>every 3,000 miles, or a synthetic oil changed at 3,000 or 5,000, or
>7,000? When it comes down to it, the extra cost (about $7/4 quarts
>vs $16/4 quarts) would be worth it, if there was a difference.
If you're operating under *severe* conditions, e.g., racing, then
it might be worth it. All that I have heard from people who have torn
down motors beyond 80K is that if you change the oil and filter every 3K,
then the crosshatch from the original factory cylinder honing will still
be visible in the cylinder bores. Sounds like dead dinosaurs do the job
just fine.
>I must have missed the "conclusive" report posted earlier, so maybe it's
>time for a repost, or at least a followup discussion.
It is included at the end of this article.
>One more question; has anyone tried Kendall Oils? My father swears by
>them, claiming the other brands spend their money (and hence your cost)
>on advertising, whereas Kendall oil is just higher quality.
From what I understand, Castrol uses the best additive package
of all dead dinosaur oils, so that's what I use. Kendall is commonly
used by dealership service departments, which I don't trust to do
anything
except maximize their profit, so I don't respect their choice of oil.
That, of course, is nothing but my own personal bias and should be
taken or discarded as such.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Some additional notes
=====================
The following notes are derived from a posting by
mvs@mink.att.com (michael.a.van stolk).
SWITCH OVER:
============
By the way when you add synthetics to an "old" engine, it will spend the
1st 5-15K removing the old gunk. This is why YOU MUST change the oil
filter regularly at first, it gunks up with your engine dirt. (80K miles
on a car, change oil filter at 83K, 86k, 90K, etc...). Also your engine
may start dripping on the floor. Don't blame the synthetic.
It will do this because the wax is being removed from the inside of
the engine and the seals are dry from not having been exposed to oil
to keep them fresh for a long time. As the new oil reaches the gaskets
and seals, they will expand to fill the cracks.
COST:
=====
It is cheaper than regular oil. I used to change my car oil every
2000 miles incl filter (5*$1.25 + $3.00 = 9.25 every 2000 miles.
Now I change it every 6000 miles (5*$3.25(kmart price) + $3.00) = 19.25
for 6000 miles. 19.25 for synthetic for 6Kmiles versus $27.50 regular.
You may not like my numbers, but the oil costs are K-mart retail.
Please use a QUALITY 2-STAGE filter which will bypass the oil should it
gunk up in the future(shame on you).
[NOTE: Castrol recommends retaining the original manufacturers
interval, even with synthetic oils. jhv]
OIL PRESSURE:
=============
Your oil presure may drop once you add it. This is ok since oil pressure
measures how much oil IS NOT GETTING TO YOUR ENGINE PARTS. What you want
is the oil to flow between the mating surfaces and lubricate properly.
A typical drop in 5-10lbs is ok with no negative effects.
(This one will take a while to accept, I know)
[NOTE: That may be part of the cause, personally I contribute it to the
lower viscosity or better pourability of synthetic oils. jhv]
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: [W] G60 30k service Qs
christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) writes:
>jtong73@ursa.calvin.edu (Peter Tong) writes:
>>I just want to second what Jan says about 5w50 syntech. It definitely
is
>>the best oil I have run. I have had it in my 2.0 for over 2500 miles
and
>>it is still not dark but looks just like how it looked when I poured
>>it in - with the exception that it is a slight bit browner.
>>There has been no consumption at all on my car either - mileage has
>>been good, and I bet part of it has been due to this oil.
>
> Ok, Peter (and Jan, and anyone else using Syntec) can you be a
little
>more specific on why you liked the Syntec so much? Any opinions are
>welcome, subjective or otherwise.
It's probably more than subjective because it was quite noticable in my
G60: When you start in the morning with a cold engine, the engine
"feels" warmed up, less "sluggish" when you accelerate.
In fact, there is little difference between a warm or a cold engine
in the way it responds, except which can be contributed to a cold fuel
system (5th inj, air cold ==> inefficient air fuel mix/freezing).
When warm, the car feels peppier as well, easier to get up to speed.
Some have reported that the car slows down less when you take your
foot off the gas. I did not notice anything like that though.
>I mean the fact that it doesn't get black would also be a minus (less
>effective detergent package), and little or no oil consumption could
>mean that it's too thick to pass through valves and rings (thus less
>lubrication?)
It will turn rather dark after a while, but it seems to take longer.
Also the reduced consumption may have been purely coincidental with
my engine finally being worn in after 30k miles....
However, others have reported similar effects with (other) synthetics
in older engines.
I am not sure what all this means, less break down, better sealing for
the rings, less detergents? And I don't think this stuff is too thick,
it's about as fluid as water (vs thick maple sirup for regular oils),
which did make me a bit worried. I am most worried about the G60
bearing... the G60 spins really fast and it uses engine oil pressure
for lubrication. Whether it is really protecting the engine better,
naturally I cannot tell you, I have not done an analysis of the oil.
However, my friend in Europe who races his very expensive 944 Turbo "S"
only uses Castrol Syntec (called "RS" over there), same as the other
members of his Porsche club. So I figured, it can't be too bad.
With Synthetics, I almost feel comfortable changing the oil at the
recommended interval of 7500 miles (which is what Castrol themselves
recommended for "normal" duty!)
---------------------------------------------------------------------
From: cac@mtmis1.mis.semi.harris.com (Clint Chamberlin)
Subject: Re: Make Best of Synthetic Oil?
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1993 13:27:09 GMT
JIE YUAN, CHEMISTRY, U. CINCINNATI (yuanj@ucbeh.san.uc.edu) wrote:
: Just some thoughts about the synthetic oil:
: Almost all the products in the marcket are possibly silicone type,
: very resistant to oxidation, and would last very long. How do one
: filter out the junk in the oil circulation system to take full
: advantage of the synthetic oil? Synthetic oil is very expensive.
: It does not make sense to change it often. But the engine will
: generate some sediments no matter what oil is used. Too much of the
: junk will degrade the lubricating function of the oil.
: Redesign the lubrication system?
: Can't all the cars, at least all the newly designed cars, utilize
: synthetic oil? It must save a lot of oil and do tne environment a
: lot of good!
You are right on all counts. Try AMSOIL spin on filters that remove 1
micron particles as opposed to std FRAM and AC that remove 25 micron.
AMSOIL also has a bypass filter that essentially elminates the need to
change oil. Many truckers never change their oil with this. It costs
around $109 retail(you can get it for $89 as a dealer. Call
715-393-7101 for a dealer near you or more info.
======================================================================
OIL ... by Ed Hackett The Desert Research Institute
edh@wheeler.wrc.unr.edu Reno, NV (702) 673-7380
First, I will answer a couple of questions asked by another. Yes,
it is OK to mix mineral and syntetic oils. One of the early
synthetics used was a Polyalkylene Glycol. This was totally
incompatable and would gel when mixed. This has not been used for
years for automotive lubrication. All common syntetics used for
engine lubrication now days are a Polyalphaolefin (Mobil 1) or a
Dibasic Organic Ester type (AMSOIL). These are fully compatable
with conventional oils. In fact Golden Spectro and AGIP Sint 2000
are mixtures of mineral and synthetic oils. It is always best to
mix oils with the same rating (SG). This insures that the
additive packages are compatable and will maintain their
effectiveness.
All engine oils use an organic Zinc compound as an extreme
pressure/anti wear additive. Spectro adds more to their Motorcycle
oil than to the car oil because Zinc is a poison to catalytic
converters. You will also see that some "car" oil contains more
than their motorcycle oil. The difference in Zinc content between
.11% and .16% is insignificant to the converter. The little data I
saw on the oils packaged by the motorcycle manufacturers indicated
that they were no better than the top automotive oils. While most
were good, they didn't offer anything the cheaper oils do. (They
are in reality just repackaged and in some cases slightly
reformulated top grade auto oils).
The following is a slightly modified repost of my original article.
I have added a few bits that address some FAQs. (long)
____________________________________________________________________
Choosing the best motor oil is a topic that comes up frequently
in discussions between motoheads, whether they are talking about
motorcycles or cars. The following article is intended to help
you make a choice based on more than the advertizing hype.
Oil companies provide data on their oils most often refered to
as "typical inspection data". This is an average of the actual
physical and a few common chemical properties of their oils. This
information is available to the public through their
distributors or by writing or calling the company directly. I
have compiled a list of the most popular, premium oils so that a ready
comparison can be made. If your favorite oil is not on the list
get the data from the distributor and use what I have as a data
base.
This article is going to look at six of the most important
properties of a motor oil readily availiable to the public: viscosity,
viscosity index (VI), flash point, pour point, % sulfated ash,
and % zinc.
Viscosity is the measure of how thick an oil is. This is
the most important property for an engine. An oil with too
low a viscosity can shear and loose film strength at high
temperatures. An oil with too high a viscosity may not pump to
the proper parts at low temperatures and the film may tear at
high rpm.
The weights given on oils are arbitrary numbers assigned by the
S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers). These numbers correspond
to "real" viscosity, as measured by several accepted techniques.
These measurements are taken at specific temperatures. Oils that
fall into a certain range are designated 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by
the S.A.E. The W means the oil meets specifications for viscosity
at 0 F and is therefore suitable for Winter use.
The following chart shows the relationship of "real" viscosity to
their S.A.E. assigned numbers. The relationship of gear oils to
engine oils is also shown.
_______________________________________________________________
| |
| SAE Gear Viscosity Number |
| ________________________________________________________ |
| |75W |80W |85W| 90 | 140 | |
| |____|_____|___|______________|________________________| |
| |
| SAE Crank Case Viscosity Number |
| ____________________________ |
| |10| 20 | 30 | 40 | 50 | |
| |__|_____|____|_____|______| |
______________________________________________________________
2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42
viscosity cSt @ 100 degrees C
Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light
base(5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as
it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and
allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil
warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent
the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is
that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher
viscosity number indicates.
Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as
a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.
Multi viscosity oils are one of the great
improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always
use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is
appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter.
The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can
cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot
of polymers(synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has
caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better
for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are
more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high
polymer content.
Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some
threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was not included
in this article for that reason. 20W-50 is the same 30 point
spread, but because it starts with a heavier base it requires
less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL
can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index
improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Mobil 1 uses no
viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30.
Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are
appropriate for your vehicle.
Viscosity Index is an empirical number indicating the rate of
change in viscosity of an oil within a given temperature range.
Higher numbers indicate a low change, lower numbers indicate a
relatively large change. The higher the number the better. This
is one major property of an oil that keeps your bearings happy.
These numbers can only be compared within a viscosity range. It is
not an indication of how well the oil resists thermal breakdown.
Flash point is the temperature at which an oil gives off vapors
that can be ignited with a flame held over the oil. The lower
the flash point the greater tendancy for the oil to suffer
vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot
cylinder walls and pistons.
The flash point can be an indicator of the quality
of the base stock used. The higher the flash point the better.
400 F is the minimum to prevent possible high consumption.
Flash point is in degrees F.
Pour point is 5 degrees F above the point at which a chilled oil
shows no movement at the surface for 5 seconds when inclined.
This measurement is especially important for oils used in the
winter. A borderline pumping temperature is given by some
manufacturers. This is the temperature at which the oil will
pump and maintain adequate oil pressure. This was not given by
a lot of the manufacturers, but seems to be about 20 degrees F above
the pour point. The lower the pour point the better. Pour point
is in degrees F.
% sulfated ash is how much solid material is left when the oil
burns. A high ash content will tend to form more sludge and
deposits in the engine. Low ash content also seems to promote
long valve life. Look for oils with a low ash content.
% zinc is the amount of zinc used as an extreme pressure, anti-
wear additive. The zinc is only used when there is actual
metal to metal contact in the engine. Hopefully the oil will do
its job and this will rarely occur, but if it does, the zinc
compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear. A
level of .11% is enough to protect an automobile engine for the
extended oil drain interval, under normal use.
Those of you with high reving, air cooled
motorcycles or turbo charged cars or bikes might want to look
at the oils with the higher zinc content. More doesn't give you
better protection, it gives you longer protection if the rate of
metal to metal contact is abnormally high. High zinc content
can lead to deposit formation and plug fouling.
The Data:
Listed alphabetically --- indicates the data was not avaliable
Brand VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
20W-50
AMSOIL 136 482 -38 <.5 ---
Castrol GTX 122 440 -15 .85 .12
Exxon High Performance 119 419 -13 .70 .11
Havoline Formula 3 125 465 -30 1.0 ---
Kendall GT-1 129 390 -25 1.0 .16
Pennzoil GT Perf. 120 460 -10 .9 ---
Quaker State Dlx. 155 430 -25 .9 ---
Shell Truck Guard 130 450 -15 1.0 .15
Spectro Golden 4 174 440 -35 --- .15
Spectro Golden M.G. 174 440 -35 --- .13
Unocal 121 432 -11 .74 .12
Valvoline All Climate 125 430 -10 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 140 440 -10 .99 .13
Valvoline Race 140 425 -10 1.2 .20
20W-40
Castrol Multi-Grade 110 440 -15 .85 .12
Quaker State 121 415 -15 .9 ---
15W-50
Chevron 204 415 -18 .96 .11
Mobil 1 180 430 -55 --- ---
Mystic JT8 144 420 -20 1.7 .15
15W-40
AMSOIL 135 460 -38 <.5 ---
Castrol 134 415 -15 1.3 .14
Chevron Delo 400 136 421 -27 1.0 ---
Exxon XD3 --- 417 -11 .9 .14
Exxon XD3 Extra 135 399 -11 .95 .13
Kendall GT-1 135 410 -25 1.0 .16
Mystic JT8 142 440 -20 1.7 .15
Shell Rotella w/XLA 146 410 -25 1.0 .13
Valvoline All Fleet 140 --- -10 1.0 .15
Valvoline Turbo 140 420 -10 .99 .13
10W-30
AMSOIL 142 480 -70 <.5 ---
Castrol GTX 140 415 -33 .85 .12
Chevron Supreme 150 401 -26 .96 .11
Exxon Superflo Hi Perf 135 392 -22 .70 .11
Exxon Superflo Supreme 133 400 -31 .85 .13
Havoline Formula 3 139 430 -30 1.0 ---
Kendall GT-1 139 390 -25 1.0 .16
Mobil 1 --- 430 -60 --- ---
Pennzoil PLZ Turbo 140 410 -27 1.0 ---
Quaker State 156 410 -30 .9 ---
Shell Fire and Ice 155 410 -35 .9 .12
Shell Super 2000 155 410 -35 1.0 .13
Shell Truck Guard 155 405 -35 1.0 .15
Spectro Golden M.G. 175 405 -40 --- ---
Unocal Super 153 428 -33 .92 .12
Valvoline All Climate 130 410 -26 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 135 410 -26 .99 .13
Valvoline Race 130 410 -26 1.2 .20
5W-30
AMSOIL 168 480 -76 <.5 ---
Castrol GTX 156 400 -35 .80 .12
Chevron Supreme 202? 354 -46 .96 .11
Exxon Superflow HP 148 392 -22 .70 .11
Havoline Formula 3 158 420 -40 1.0 ---
Mobil 1 150 430 -65 --- ---
Mystic JT8 161 390 -25 .95 .1
Quaker State 165 405 -35 .9 ---
Shell Fire and Ice 167 405 -35 .9 .12
Unocal 151 414 -33 .81 .12
Valvoline All Climate 135 405 -40 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 158 405 -40 .99 .13
All of the oils above meet current SG/CD ratings and all
vehicle manufacture's warranty requirements in the proper viscosity.
All are "good enough", but those with the better numbers are icing on
the cake.
The more expensive synthetics; AMSOIL, Mobil 1,
and Spectro offer the only truly significant differences, due
to their superior high temperature oxidation resistance, high film
strength, very low tendancy to form deposits,
stable viscosity base, and low temperature flow characteristics.
Synthetics are superior lubricants compared to
traditional petroleum oils. You will have to decide if their high
cost is justifed in your application.
The extended oil drain intervals given by the vehicle
manufacturers(typically 7500 miles) and synthetic oil companies(up
to 25,000 miles)
are for what is called normal service. Normal service is
defined as the engine at normal operating temperature, at
highway speeds, and in a dust free environment. Stop and go,
city driving, trips of less than 10 miles, or exterme heat or cold puts
the oil change interval into the severe service category, which is
3000 miles for most vehicles. Synthetics can be run two to three
times the mileage of petroleum oils with no problems. They do not
react to combustion and combustion by-products to the extent that
the dead dinosaur juice does. The longer drain intervals possible
help take the bite out of the higher cost of the synthetics.
If your car or bike is still under warranty you will have
to stick to the recommended drain intervals. These are set for
petroleum oils and the manufacturers make no official allowance for
the use of synthetics.
Oil additives should not be used. The oil companies have gone
to great lengths to develop an additive package that meets the
vehicle's requirements. Some of these additives are synergistic,
that is the effect of two additives together is greater than the effect
of each acting separately. If you add anything to the oil you may
upset this balance and prevent the oil from performing to
specification.
The numbers above are not, by any means, all there is to determining
what makes a top quality oil.
The exact base stock used, the type, quality, and
quantity of additives used are very important.
The given data combined with the manufacturer's
claims, your personal experience, and the reputation of the oil
among others who use it should help you make an informed choice.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
I just recieved this data from our local oil distributor. It is
the update on the new Mobil 1 formulation and that for the new
Castrol Syntec. They did not have the numbers for the new
Valvoline synthetics yet. The data on the new Mobil 1 is pretty
impressive. Based on these numbers, price, and availiability,
there is little need to look further for a synthetic oil.
The Syntec seems to be compromised by it's wide viscosity range.
Notice that the pour point is for all practical purposes, no
better than the Mobil 1 15W-50. (actually, it's not as good)
While, meeting the viscosity parmeters, the wide range is
probably for marketing purposes. The Mobil 1 15W-50 will pump at
-35 degrees F, which is as good as some conventinal 5W-30 oils.
Any of the ester based synthetics (AMSOIL, Mobil 1, and Syntec),
will give you the benefits that Castrol is making a big deal of in
their advertising. The ability to cling to metal walls is due to
the polar nature of the ester base stock, not something unique to
Castrol's formulation.
The Data: (add to your current article)
Brand and Weight VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
Syntec 5W-50 180 437 -49 1.2 0.10
Mobil 1 5W-30 165 445 -65 --- ---
10W-30 160 450 -65 --- ---
15W-50 170 470 -55 --- ---
========================================================================
Number Crunching - the lowdown on Volkswagen's part numbering system.
by Timothy N. Gavern, with special thanks to John Ludwig
(VW TRENDS, March 1992)
If you've been around Volkswagens a while, you have probably caught on
to the fact that there is a system to their parts numbers. A good VW
parts man can usually go to the shelf and get the part you came in for
without even looking it up in the book. Of course, he probably double-
checks to be sure that he has the right one ... But, the reason that he
can pull parts this way is because Volkswagen had the foresight in it's
infancy to develop an extremely efficient nine digit system of numbering
(with letters of the alphabet sometimes appearing as suffixes).
This system makes it easy for him (or her) to come up with the correct
part because of how the part number identifies what the part is. The
nine digit number starts off with three digits indicating what type,
model, or version of car (or truck) the part is for. The following
digit is the main group that the part is from. The following two digits
are the sub-group identifiers and the last three digits are the part's
actual number within the group and sub-group. If there are any letters
following the number, they are the modification code. Sound difficult?
Look at this example and you will see how simple it really is.
Part number 176 867 009 C MT3 is a blue left door trim panel for a
Golf 2-door. The breakdown to identify the part goes like this:
The first three digts, "176", distinguish the Type, Model, or Version
of the vehicle (Golf, 2-door).
The following number, "8", is the main group number from which the part
is from (Body). <sic>
Next, the two digits, "67", indicate the sub-group number (Door trim
panels, side trim panels, trunk linings, roof and pillar linings,
and grab handles)
followed by "009 C" which is the part's number (Left side, front door
panel).
Following the part number is the "MT3" modification code (Blue).
A further breakdown of the part number is in order here. It is
important to remember that the first three digits indicate the type,
model, or version only for which the part was originally designed.
This could confuse people sometimes, but realize that parts can also be
used on other vehicles and because of this fact the first three digits
do not etch in stone that the part is for only one particular vehicle.
Think about the case of an oil dipstick. Why should Volkswagen make
five different ones when one could suffice for several vehicles. Hence,
your dipstick part number could have a different first three digits
than the digits that indicate your model. In this case, the first three
digits would indicate which car model or type the dipstick was originally
designed for ... not the model you have. Simple.
Next digit in the part number are the group number, the groups are
broken down into ten categories (or groups). <sic> The one digit
indicates which group the part is from.
1. Engine
2. Fuel tank, exhaust system, heating and air conditioning
3. Transmission
4. Front axle, steering, differential
5. Rear axle
6. Road wheels, brakes
7. Hand-lever system, pedal cluster (frame)
8. Body
9. Electrical
10. Factory accessories such as jacks, tools, and stickers
In the case of the part number that we identified above, Group 8
indicates that it was a body part.
The subgroup is the next identification; which follows the group number
and is indicated by a two digit code. In our case, "67", which means
section 67 of the main group 8 in the Golf microfiche. This makes
finding the part in the microfiche much easier and faster.
Following the subgroup is the actual part number or "actual" numerical
designation. "009" is the actual part number. Actually, the ninth
digit in the part number is the part's real number. In our example,
it is an odd number (9). Odd numbers usually indicate a left side part
and even numbers usually indicate a right side part. Those parts which
could be used on either side usually have an odd ninth number. Our part
is a left side door panel, so the number is odd. Note: It is very
important to remember that left, right, front, rear are determined from
the driver's seat in driving position.
Last, but not least, is the modification code at the end of our number.
These are added to the part number if the part has been modified or
changed. This means if the part has been changed to different
materials, construction of the part has changed, or even if the supplier
has changed. The "C" indicated in our part number could be a
manufacturing plant code, a change in materials, or whatever. These
parts with modification codes may or may not interchange with parts
having the same part number and no modification code. These letters
also very importantly can tell you what color the part in question is.
As in our case, where "MT3" signifies the color blue.
One last important thing to remember is not to confuse the chassis
numbers (VIN numbers) with part numbers. The part numbers only indicate
the parts that make up a vehicle, but the chassis number simply
distinguishes one vehicle from another. We hope this article will make
it a little easier for you to understand Volkswagen's part numbering
system and that you are a little more appreciative of the fact that
their system works so well.
........................................................................
i'm not sure when vw put this system into effect, so i don't know if
it applies to the oldest generation of buses. as i recall, the 2nd
generation of buses had part numbers usually beginning with 211.
vanagon part numbers usually begin with 251. eurovan part numbers
(i think) begin with 700.
this does NOT apply to electrical parts, or tranmission parts. electric
parts seem to start mostly with 025 (which seems to be a designation for
Bosch). transmission parts seem to start with the type of transmission
... that is, an air-cooled vanagon 4-speed has a 091 transmission, and
parts for that transmission would start with 091. a vanagon syncro
transmission is an 094, and its parts (but only those SPECIFIC to the
Syncro) would start with 094. any 094 parts that are common to the 091
would start with 091.
it's kinda neat to notice that the Oh-my-God-straps in the campers,
those grab-and-hang-on straps for the rear seat passengers, start with
113 ... the old faithful Beetle. :)
=========================================================================
From: derekdrew@aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 94 12:01:34 EST
Subject: Alignment For Vanagon Syncro
The following material is being shipped to Joel Walker and to the people
who own Syncro Vanagons on Internet.
Dear Friends,
The VW service manual for the Vanagon was updated in 1990 to include a
different method for calculating the proper alignment specs for the
Syncro
Vanagon. Owners of the earlier service manuals for the vanagon will miss
these new specs. The specs are contained on page 44.3a of the service
manual. If your manual does not contain this page and these specs, you
will
not have the updated information on how to correctly align your syncro.
If you rely on someone else to select the proper specs for the Vanagon
Syncro, you have a problem as well. This is because the company that
makes
almost all alignment machines in the country, the Hunter company, put in
the wrong specs for the front of the Vanagon Syncro. I actually located
the clerk in Hunter who misinterpreted a symbol in the Vanagon repair
microfiche and who admitted he made a mistake. Over time--a very long
time-- he said he would try to get the specs on the Hunter machines
corrected, but he admitted that in the mean time repair mechanics around
the country would be setting the Vanagon Syncros in their shop to the
improper alignment specs.
I recalculated all values and came up with the following specs, which are
proper for the Camper model. If you don't have the camper model, you
should
obtain page 44.3a of the service manual and perform your own calculation
as your specs will be slightly less aggressive than these due to the
lighter weight of your vehicle.
If you take your Vanagon Syncro into an alignment shop and say, "give me
an
alignment," there is a 5% chance you will get a proper alignment, and a
95%
chance the mechanic will use either: a) the faulty specs in many Hunter
alignment machines or b) the earlier, easier to figure, alignment specs
used before page 44.3a was issued. As a matter of fact, the guy at the
Hunter alignment company told me that the methodology in page 44.3a was
too difficult to input into the standard format of the Hunter alignment
machine computer systems, and so the proper procedure would never appear
on those machines. The proper procedure involves measuring the ride
height of the vehicle and calculating the proper alignment spec based on
that. The measurement is taken by measuring the distance between the
wheelwell and the center of the wheel.
Once you are able to obtain the proper specs, there is another problem in
forcing your mechanic to follow your specs and not those in the Hunter
machines. You have to tell the mechanic that the vehicle has been
modified or make up some story or he will simply ignore your specs and
use those in the machine. One way to force the mechanic to be honest is
to insist on a print-out from the Hunter machine showing your actual
alignment specs after the operation. You can then compare these specs
to those you provide him to check whether he has done the job right.
The alignment is difficult enought on a Vanagon Syncro that there is a
strong possibility the mechanic will use either, a) the hunter specs,
or b) your specs, whichever he is able to achieve first, unless you
beat him up to not do so.
The following specs should be read with a proportional font text reader
in
order for the columns to line up correctly. Again, the following is for
the
camper model, or other very heavy model vanagons. The rest of you will
have
to make up your own chart after consultiing page 44.3a.
The material in this document is copywrite 1994 by Derek Drew, 487
Columbus
Ave. #3R, New York, NY 10024 (212)-580-4459. It may be reproduced and
redistributed for any non-commercial purpose provided proper credit is
given to the author. Contact the author for permission to reproduce in a
commercial work.
=========================================================================
Before giving you the specs, a disussion of how to lift the van is in
order. Since I regularly drive my Vanagon Syncro Camper on rough terrible
roads and bash the underside, I have undertaken to lift it a bit. I
lifted
it about 1" by buying BF Goodrich Radial All-Terrain tires, in light
truck
size 27 x 8.50 for the 14" alloy rims. (I love these bigger tires, and
they provide excellent handling because the sidewalls are relatively
stiff, but they kill the performance of the motor due to their effect on
the gearing. You will feel like you are in a 1970s era bus again, but I
feel the tradeoff is well worth it for my application).
Another method I used to raise the van is to raise the rear end. I did
this
as follows: in between the rear springs and the body of the vehicle
there is a small doughnut sized wedge of about 3/4 inch thickness. I went
to the dealer and bought a pile of these little wedges and put 2 or 3
more on each side of the rear of the vehicle. I am still puzzling over
how
to lift the front of the vehicle so right now it tilts down at the front
a bit. Any ideas on how to easily lift the front of a Syncro Vanagon?
------------BELOW IS WHAT YOU GIVE THE ALIGNMENT MECHANIC----------------
=========================================================================
VANAGON SYNCRO --'86-'91
ALIGNMENT SPECS FOR CAMPER MODEL WITH DUAL BATTERIES UP FRONT
^Proper specifications for camper are NOT INCLUDED on Hunter
machines. Use the following.^
ORDER OF WORK
Alignments MUST be performed in the following order to avoid
one adjustment from changing other adjustments:
1st Castor
2nd Camber
3rd Toe
SPECIFICATIONS -- 30-40% laden
----- Left Front --- -- Right Front --------
Min Max. Min. Max.
-------------------- -----------------------
-0.27 +0.40 Camber -0.27 +0.40
+3.8 +4.4 Caster +3.8 +4.4
-0.033 +0.033 Toe -0.033 +0.033
(-0.017") (+0.017") Toe (inches) (-0.017") (+0.017")
---- Front ------
Min. Max.
-----------------
Cross Camber 0 0.3
Cross Caster 0 0.5
Total Toe -0.07 +0.07
Toe in inches: (-0.033") (+0.033")
Setback 0 0.5
---- Left Rear ----- --- Right Rear --------
Min. Max. Min. Max.
-------------------- -----------------------
-0.67 0.00 Camber -0.67 0.00
-0.08 +0.26 Toe (each) -0.08" +0.26
(-0.04") +(0.13") (in inches) (-0.04") +(0.13")
-----------------------------------------------------------
---- Rear -------
Min. Max.
----------------- FINAL
Cross Camber 0 0.3 This page
Total Toe -0.16 +0.52 based on
total toe in inches: (-0.08") +(0.26") measurement
Thrust angle -0.10 +0.10 page 44.3a
=========================================================================
Notes on calculations (for your own use/reference)
1. Calculating front camber spec:
Notes: The front camber spec for the regular Vanagon
peaks in the middle and then comes back down.
However, for the Syncro the spec seems to drop
directly. My figure should probably be centered
around zero. Thus:
+5' +- 20' is a good compromise
Range in degrees is 0.7*.
This translates into:
+0.0825* +/-0.334
This translates into:
+0.4165 -0.2515
2. Calculating the front castor spec:
Set arbitrarily at halfway between published spec
and halfway point.
3. Calculating the rear camber spec:
Empty Full
+0.25 Max -0.50
-0.25 Nominal -1.17*
-0.42 Min. -1.84
Has a 0.67* spread.
So, set this at -0.00 max.
-0.67 min.
4. Calculating the rear toe spec:
Empty Full
+0.125"
-0.041"
=========================================================================
WEIGHT INFORMATION:
Premise: The empty non-camper syncro weighs in at between
3,641 and 4,000 lbs. depending on the model. The max weight
is 5512. The halfway point is therefore between 4577 and
4894 lbs.
My vehicle weighs in at about the halfway point, since I
weigh 4680 empty. Being conservative, I will produce a set
of alignment specs for a vehicle 33% laden.
RANDOM WEIGHT STATISTICS:
TOTAL Front Axel Rear Axel
Syncro Camper
GVWR 5512 2866 3042
Empty 3950
Actual 4620? 2310? 2310?
Pub. curb R&T 4000 1972 2028
Pub. curb C&D 4000
Extrapo camper 4350
Non-Syncro Camper
Empty 3960
Full 5280
Cargo weight 1320
Non-Camper Syncro 2.1 litre
Empty 3661 (3689) 1793 1867
Observed empty 4045 (4109) 1982 2063
Cargo weight 1929
Implied GVWR* 5590
(*meaning empty + cargo)
Non-Syncro, Non-Camper
Empty 3670
Road and Track states that Syncro adds 330 lbs to the 3670
non syncro Vanagon and the camper adds 350 lbs as well.
=========================================================================
TRANSLATING DEGREES, MINUTES, AND INCHES:
Degrees Minutes Inches
0.01* = 0.6' = 0.005"
0.0165* = 1' = 0.00825"
0.025* = 1.5' = 0.0125"
0.05* = 3' = 0.025"
0.10* = 6' = 0.05"
0.167* = 10' = 0.0825"
0.25* = 15' = 0.125"
0.5* = 30' = 0.25"
0.75* = 45' = 0.375"
1* = 60' = 0.50"
Degrees devided by 2 = inches
2* = 1.00"
3* = 1.50"
4* = 2.00"
5* = 2.50"
Inches to Minutes
1.00" = 15'
Derek Drew
487 Columbus Ave. #3R
New York, NY 10024
212-580-4459
Internet: derekdrew@aol.com
========================================================================
Car Care
by Rik Paul
(Motor Trend magazine, October 1994. page 148.)
Navigating the Maze of Friction-Reducing Formulas
One of the biggest phenomenons to hit the engine-care scene over the
last few years has been the wave of friction-reducint, anti-wear engine
treatments. Over the years, we've received more reader questions about
these products than any other car-care subject. It also seems as though
we receive notices of new entries in this category almost weekly. The
main claim of these products is the ability to reduce internal engine
wear ... particularly during the critical cold-start period ...
resulting in longer service life. Some also make additional claims
regarding increased performance and fuel economy resulting from the
reduced friction.
To the average consumer, all of the hype, claims, and counter-claims
can seems as confusing to navigate as a bayou. Part of the prolem is
due to the fact that objectively evaluating these products in order to
substantiate their anti-wear claims is almost impossible without
prohibitively expensive lab tests. Which, of course, provides fertile
ground for exaggerated assertions and inflated statistics. Meanwhile,
public perception of these friction-reducers ranges from miracle
treatments to modern-day snake oils. The truth, however, probably
rests somewhere in between.
One of the common additives found in many formulas is a polymer called
polytetrafluoroethylene, or PTFE. Origianlly discovered by DuPont in
the late '30s, it's commonly known by that manufacturer's trade name,
Teflon, and is considered to be the most slippery solid substance
known to man. As an engine treatment, it's added to engine oil as
microscopic particles. The particles purportedly bond to internal
engine surfaces, reducing the friction of moving parts, such as
bearings and rings, thereby decreasing wear and improving efficiency.
PTFE's history as an engine oil additive, though, is spotty, due largely
to the fact that not all formulas are created equal. It was first used
for this application in the '70s, but by 1980, Du Pont had decided to
discontinue Teflon sales to oil-additive manufacturers, a ban that
remained in place for about a decade. One problem was that anyone could
... and still can ... buy the polymer in bulk, add it to carrier oil,
and package it as their own formula, without sufficient technical
expertise to make it work. In some products, the PTFE reportedly
separated from the oil and settled in the oil pan. Plus, there was
concern over particle build-up clogging oil filters and passages. Such
problems with these early versions has left a stigma that still lingers.
Petrolon got the current bandwaon rolling about five years ago when it
introduced a reformulated Slick 50 Engine Treatment. The product has
been heavily marketed and is currently the category's undisputed sales
leader. In fact, in '92, it held a 90-percent share of the engine-
treatment market. Petrolon claims that Slick 50 reduces engine wear
at start-up and during operation for over 50,000 miles.
A few years ago, the company also made claims regarding improvements in
performance and fuel economy, but in 1992, the National Advertising
Division of the Council of Better Business Bureaus asked Petrolon to
discontinue such assertions due to lack of substantiating evidence.
Although Petrolon was targeted for this review largely because of its
size, the same scrutiny should be applied to any of the products in this
category.
As in most current products, the PTFE particles in Slick 50 are
maintained in a colloidal suspension, in which they are electrically
charged to repel each other. This keeps them from bonding or
coagulating, which not only keeps the PTFE from setting out of the oil,
but also prevents the clogging of oil filters.
This charge is gradually lost, and sources vary on how long PTFE remains
effective. Although Slick 50 claims it reduces wear over 50,000 miles,
others say the real value of PTFE is more short-term, with its
effectiveness possibly beginning to erode after 10,000 to 20,000 miles.
Hilton Oil Corporation, the company that markets T-Plus, another
compound containing PTFE, says that "over a period of time and mileage,
PTFE levels in the engine are gradually reduced." Subsequently, the
company offers a T-Plus Booster to replenish the PTFE.
Until recently, DuPont has maintained a neutral stance on the use of
Teflon as an oil additive, neither confirming nor promoting any claimed
benefits. Last year, however, Petrolon and DuPont signed a technology-
sharing agreement to cooperate in development of new lubricant formulas
and other products incorporating PTFE, as well as the possible
development of new polymers and co-polymers for this purpose.
What about the problem of clogged oil filters? The Fram Filter Division
of Allied-Signal Aftermarket Group conducted a study in 1992 to
determine just this point, specifically targeting Slick 50 and a
competitor named Tufoil. The study found that the PTFE particles in
those formulas freely flow through typical oil filters used on
passenger-car engines, with no danger of clogging. The average size of
a PTFE particle is about 0.2 to 0.3 microns, which is well below the
35-micron pore size of typical passenger-car oil filters. Petrolon,
however, advises that use of Slick 50 isn't recommened with systems that
filter particles 5 microns or smaller.
Slick 50 shares the scene with numerous other products, each with its
own formula and claims. T-Plus, for instance, claims it has 50 percent
more PTFE, while QMI claims 10 times more PTFE than its "nearest
competitor." Petrolon counters that an engine can only use so much
PTFE, just as a human body can only absorb so much vitamin C.
Products such as Tufoil and OEM combine PTFE with molybdenum, a soluble
heavy-metal compound, which their manufacturers claim provides increased
anti-wear characteristics. Meanwhile, a company called Engine-slick
advertises that it uses a unique interface bonding technique instead of
the more common collodial suspension, which "interlocks Teflon particles
together" to provide "99 to 100 percent" coverage on internal engine
surfaces.
Other companies take non-PTFE approaches to the problem. For instance,
First Brands' STP Engine Treatment uses a formula it calls XEP2,
composed of various agents, which is also claimed to bond to internal
engine surfaces. Castrol's Syntec FSX contains a negatively charged
chemical ester that is said to bond molecularly with positively charged
engine parts and uses a 5W-50 synthetic carrior oil. Power Up employs
NNL-690, a lubricant that reportedly changes from a liquid to a solid
(in the form of minute particles) as the conditions change from light
to heavy loads.
So how can you tell what works and what doesn't? In most cases buyers
need to sift through the literature and try to read between the lines;
not exactly a reliable method. So it was with interest that we met
with representatives from Petrolon, who brough stacks of hard numbers
from an extensive series of tests conducted last year. Here are the
details in a nutshell.
The tests were done by Southwest Research Institute, in San Antonio,
Texas, an independent facility monitored by the American Society for
Testing and Materials (ASTM). Two different tests were conducted at
a cost of about $1 million: a start/stop test and a continuous operation
test, each designed to simulate 50,000 miles worth of operation.
The tests were extended versions of a Sequence IIIE test, a widely
accepted automotive and petroleum procedure for motor oils that
simulates stressful highway driving. Six industry-standard Buick V-6
engines were used for each phase; three were treated with Slick 50, and
three were not, to serve as controls. A 5W-30 SG premium-quality oil
was used in all engines.
The parts to be examined, including piston rings, rocker arms, and
connecting rod and main bearings, were weighed both before and after
the tests to determine the amount of wear.
In the start/stop test, the engines were started, idled for one minute,
accelerated to the equivalent of 50 mph for 10 minutes to simulate a
short trip, and then turned off. A total of 330 such repetitions were
performed. Then the oil and filter were changed (no new Slick 50 was
added), and the engines run for four hours at the equivalent of 70 mph
to flush them. The oil was drained and the filter removed. Then a
series of 500 start/stop sequences were conducted without oil to
simulate dry starts, in which the engine was started, revved to 1000
rpm, and shut off.
In the continuous-operation test, the engines were run for 480 hours at
3000 rpm, which is estimated to simlulate 50,000 miles. The oil and
filter were changed every 3000 miles with Slick 50 added to the
appropriate engines during only the first oil change.
After both test were completed, all engines were disassembled and
measured for wear. The following results show the average reduction of
wear in the parts used in the Slick 50-treated engines:
Start/Stop
Rod bearings .................... 55 percent
Main bearings ................... 34 percent
Piston rings .................... 43 percent
Rocker arms ..................... 22 percent
Average of all parts ............ 39 percent
Continuous Operation
Rod bearings .................... 44 percent
Main bearings ................... 8 percent
Piston rings .................... 25 percent
Rocker arms ..................... 18 percent
Average of all parts ............ 24 percent
Petrolon noted that anti-wear protection was best between 10,000 and
50,000 miles, though there was no way to project within this testing
format whether more frequent PTFE treatments would've given better
results.
According to these tests, Slick 50 provides significant anti-wear
benefits. Many other companies, however, lack the funds to verify
their products' claims to conclusively. Therefore, common sense should
be used when shopping.
* Approach claims of "life-time treatments" and specific percentage
increases in mileage or performance with a healthy skepticism. Even
if better gas mileage or performance is technically true, the
improvements will likely be subtle.
* PTFE is inert, won't melt at engine temperatures, and has virtually
no expansion rate. Beware of claims that contradict these properties.
* If a PTFE product requires you to shake the can, the particles likely
will separate and settle into your oil pan. Avoid these compounds.
* Remember that the anti-wear benefits of these engine treatments won't
provide a payoff until many miles down the road. If you're the type
that gets a new car every five years, then it likely will be future
owners who'll thank you for using an anti-wear product. However, if
you keep vehicles for a long time, then a friction-reducing formula
may be worth the investment.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Joel's commentary:
1. If it is so great, which departments of the government and/or
industry use it? seems like the army/air force/navy would be very
interested in something like this, especially for helicopter or
aircraft engines, or ship engines. what about diesel locomotives,
that basically run ALL the time?
Remember now, we are talking about the same government that spent
several millions of dollars to test if Bovine Flatulence was
affection the ozone layer. surely they wouldn't be 'cowed' by
a little oil test. ;)
2. "Petrolon noted that anti-wear protection was best between 10,000
and 50,000 miles ..." how did they come up with this, based on the
tests that were described? it didn't say that they disassembled the
engine at 10,000 miles. so how do they know the protection was
'best' at that mileage?
3. If PTFE treatment WAS of any value, do you really think that DuPont
would miss out on such an opportunity to market their own product,
especially since they own the patent rights to PTFE (Teflon)?
Something about this doesn't quite fit the standard practices of
large american corporations, does it? :)
4. I remain unconvinced.
