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Moby Grape Trad

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Elevenmile Dome


Description
This popular dome is quite large, south-facing, and hosts many fine moderate sport and trad routes. Most routes are single
pitch with rap anchors, but for those that do summit, an easy downclimb is possible.

Getting There
The mileage at 2.8 from the start of the canyon off of CR96 on the right side of the road (no river crossing).


                                                                               [hide] Elevenmile Dome : Elevenmile Dome on
                                                                                         right as seen from approach.




                    Elevenmile Dome : John leading unknown route between Cheryl's Peril and Counter Strike.

By Bill Parmenter        [hide] Be aware of communication concerns. Due to the river noise below it is difficult or impossible to
Aug 30, 2002             hear each other on the routes that are longer than half a rope (80 feet) long. "The Overleaf", "Cheryl's
                         Perils", "Moby Grape" and "Original Sin" are ones that alternate communication plans would be
                         benificial. Consider rope tugs, pra-arranged non-verbal sequence of events, or two way radios on these
                         routes, and possibly others if river flow is high.

                         [hide] I agree with Bill. Alternative communication plans are a must here.
Cheryl's Peril 5.8+ Sport
Description
This long route is only protected by a handful of bolts, but all the hard spots are covered. It's a nice warmup for S.Face Direct.

Can't remember the rap (yeah, I'm worthless) but I think a 50m is fine.

Protection
6 draws and some nerve between runouts

[hide] Cheryl's Peril : #7




                                                  Cheryl's Peril : Look up and see the flake. This is CP, long run out past flake but
                                                  can be protected easily.


                         [hide] Assuming I was on the correct route, a 50m rope isn't enough for the rap, nor is a 60m rope. I
By Scott Queen           have a 60m rope and a rap from the anchors only got me down to the first bolt - thankfully you can
May 21, 2002             basically walk off from there, but it isn't on the ground (note that my belayer had to move up to the
                         first bolt to belay me all the way to the anchors and lower me back down.

By shad O'Neel           [hide] fun 5.9 face climbing on slightly slabbly rock with mostly good incut edges. Wander past at least
Apr 13, 2003             7 if not 8 very good well placed bolts, first to the right then to the left etc. The crux is from the ground
                         (rather scramble up 4th class 25 feet to a belay ledge) to when youre feet are just past the 3rd bolt.
                         The runout sections were easier climbing. Route finding is the crux if you are trained to follow the
                         chalk. oh and a 60 m rope makes it just fine, but a 50 wont come close. i promise that is correct.

By Larry Shaw            [hide] Seemed way easier than a .9. A 60m rope will reach the ground in the photo on route #6 but will
May 21, 2004             not on route #7 which felt like a .8 to me.
rating: 5.7+

By ET                    [hide] This route is #7 on the photo. I would describe the protection as adequate but not
Jul 7, 2004              heartwarming. A middlesize nut will add confidence. A 50m will definately not work. A 60m will get you
rating: 5.8+             to easy scrambling. It goes 5.8(R)+, or 5.9- depending on the guidebook.
Counter Strike 5.5 Sport
Description
Very mellow, bolted line left of the Moby Grape dihedral. Very fun for the kids and popular with novices and fledgling leaders.
If I were going to take my Mom climbing, this would be a fine choice!

Location
Bolted line 10 meters right of unnamed 5.9 and 10 meters left of the Moby Grape dihedral. Easy for Mom and Dad to setup a
TR for the Kids. Burly 50 foot approach!

Protection
Draws.


                                                  [hide] Counter Strike : 1st pitches of:
                                                           Counter Strike (5.5)
                                                         Phantom Pinnacle (5.7)
                                                            Moby Grape (5.7)




By Rich F.                [hide] Fun 5.5 face climb with about 10 bolts, closely spaced, to a 2-bolt anchor with chains. Dan's first
Oct 25, 2008              ever lead!
rating: 5.5




EZ Street 5.6 Trad/ Sport
Description
Three pitches with the second being the crux. This route
was bolted in 1994 by Mark Van Horn. P1 - goes at 5.4 with
3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay. P2 goes over the little headwall
which is protected by bolts and is about 5.6. P3 heads to the
top and eases off again.

P1 is a great beginner lead up very featured slab. The three
bolts are where you need them to make it feel not run out.
A 60m rope will get you down from the belay anchor with
lots to spare. I think this first pitch is a better first lead than
Counter Strike.
Protection
Draws and a light rack if you want one.


           EZ Street : Photo shows location of 1st pitches of Moby Grape (5.7), Happy Trails (5.6), and EZ Street (5.6)

By Chris Grosshans      The first pitch is easy (5.5ish). I do not think the second or third pitch were 5.6. The head wall on the
Jun 7, 2010             second pitch is tricky (5.8ish). If you are short, you will have problems reaching the holds on the third
rating: 5.9             pitches crux. I do not think this is a good first lead.

                        I would recommend bringing a light rack as the bolts are spacey. Most of my placements were small
                        gear although I used a #3 Camalot on the third pitch.

By Casey Lems           2nd and 3rd pitches are certainly not 5.6. I thought the headwall moves were harder than 5.8. The
Jun 11, 2010            third pitch crux was very thin and heady.
rating: 5.9
                        As Chris said, bring a light rack and don't make this your first lead.

                        Also, we were barely able to do 2 raps to the ground from the 3rd set of anchors with a 70m. If you
                        have a 60m rope, do 3 raps.




Face Value 5.9- Sport
Description
Face Value starts just left of Cheryl's Peril (5.9) and just right of the big ledge
where South Face Direct (5.10c) starts. The long, well-protected line follows up
past 8 bolts on funky holds to a 2 bolt anchor rested in a roomy ledge about 80
feet up. The rap can be done with a single 60m rope with little room to spare.
Mark the middle of your rope and tie the ends!! Excellent climbing and cool
view from the top. It is definitely worth your time to climb Face Value.
Protection - 8 draws for bolts and extra for 2-bolt anchor. (Right)Face Value :
Closing in on the anchors.



(Right) Climber approaching the anchors




By Scott Hudson         Climbed this about a month ago and thought it was a very good climb. I usually enjoy, but don't find
Oct 14, 2005            easy bolted routes very memorable, but the "funky" holds (many large quartz crystals) made this one
                        quite memorable. I'm sure it would have been more so if it only had the 2 original bolts though. Still,
                        my partner and I both thought that it was exceptionally fun on a great piece of rock.

By jeff bryan           [hide] Fun route, easy not over bolted like table rock or CCC. more bolts then your average 11 mile
Sep 9, 2008             route but the dome needs it. its crowded here so let all enjoy this great canyon

By Shawn Mitchell       [hide] Very fun bolted face. Steep, well protected, but not sewn up. A couple runouts on moderate
Aug 8, 2009             ground hold the attention. Well worth doing and a great climb to set a toprope for strong beginners. A
rating: 5.8+            60m gets down nicely, but make sure it's the middle!
Happy Trails 5.6 Sport
Description
On the far right side of the dome, locate this nice beginner sport/mixed route that is protected by 6 bolts, but also has some
gear placements.

Low-angle, easy climbing, great friction. What more can you ask for?

Protection
About 8 draws and some stoppers and small cams.

                                                                                                                          Happy
                                                                                                                          Trails :




  [hide] Happy Trails : Happy Trails follows the red line past 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The 5.6 crux is going over the "nose".

By Dave Chenault       [hide] Disclaimer: unless you are a honed South Platte slabmaster this will feel a bit harder than 5.6.
Dec 2, 2001            You can bring gear, but the only places it goes are the really easy sections where you won't be thinking
                       about it anyway. A good climb.

By Lance Bischoff      [hide] The route has 4 bolts, not six. Runout section atop to anchors may make new lead climbers
Sep 14, 2003           quesy, there are some flakes near steep section, though, for small stoppers before the runout. It is a
                       5.6, IMHO, and low angle enough to keep most feeling okay. Nice route for sport intro

By Stewart M. Green    Happy Trails should have 6 bolts. Again, the three of us climbed the lower part of the route to the
Jun 6, 2006            upper slab and then traversed up right to the flake belay for Jet Setter. Thanks to Mark Van Horn who
                       bolted the whole line in 1994 and added the anchors under the roof.

By Rich F.             [hide] Good route. 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Crux is going over the "nose" -- actually thought this
Oct 25, 2008           route (crux) was tougher than Moby Grape. Long pitch of 100+ feet to anchors, but the bolts are placed
rating: 5.6            well for protection. Recommend a 70m rope if top roping or rappeling. (Note: some of the photos here
                       are of EZ Street, so I've added 2 photos showing relation of Moby Grape, Happy Trails, and EZ Street.)
Kathy's Crack 5.4 PG13 Trad
Description
Kathy's Crack is a left-angling crack to the left of Stone Groove. The route follows a the crack which is filled with grass and
shrubs before finishing on typical 11-Mile bathtubs. Best bet is to climb the crack and then bathtubs until reaching an easy
traverse to the left ending in the descent gully. Note: Would be a decent beginner lead if it was cleaned. I climbed this route
with a 70m rope but a 60 should reach if you traverse left 20-30 feet after the crack ends and bathtubs begin. With a 50m one
should find a good spot toward the end of the crack to build a belay.

Location
From the base of 11 Mile Dome, hike south 75 feet and then up the gully 150 feet. Kathy's Crack is the definable crack system
left of Stone Groove which is an obvious, right-facing, wide crack. Currently, it's full of grass and shrubs.

Protection
A few small to medium cams.


By Bill Olszewski       [hide] When the crack turned into a wide chimney/overhanging flake with lots of flora, I pulled over
May 12, 2010            the flake to the right and then followed the line of the arch from above, past discontinuous cracks.
                        Plenty of pro for the easy face climbing that way. Set an anchor in a huge dish with a horizontal crack
                        at approx. 120'. From there, it was an easy walk-off to the left and up, then back down to reach the
                        hillside.




Mike Johnson Route 5.10b Sport
Description
Find this route starting from the righthand end of the ledge that "South Face Direct" starts from.

Clip bolts up the wall on 5.7 and 5.8 climbing to the bulge. Dechiper the bulge using trickery and slopers and continue on to
the anchor.The bulge is much harder than the rest of the pitch and is only a move or two. Worth doing if yo have stopped an
Elevenmile.

Protection
Six bolts to a 2 bolt anchor


By Larry Shaw           [hide] Easy start leads to a series of slopers...very cool.
Sep 2, 2004
rating: 5.10b
Moby Grape 5.7 Trad
Description
This is a really fun route and makes for a great first lead. Moby Grape is located near the right end of the dome in a large right
facing corner.

Pitch 1: 120" 5.7 Begin with a few moves up the slab to reach the corner. Follow the corner for about 100 feet of fun stemming
and jamming with perfect protection. Just below the anchors the crack peters out and the rock bulges. Face climb over the
bulge on large holds and move up to the anchor below a large roof. Either Rap with two ropes or continue up for another
pitch.

Pitch 2: 100" 5.6 Face climb up and left to avoid the roof. The climbing quickly becomes easy as you move up the slab.
Continue until you reach a bolted anchor in a pod below the walk-off ledge.

Walk off to the climbers left and scramble down along the edge of the dome.

Protection
Nuts and a couple of cams up to #2 Camalot.




   Moby Grape : 1st pitch of Moby Grape (5.7) #9 pic left, and Happy Trails (5.6) Also, I believe Original Sin (5.9) is between -
                       just a few feet right of Moby, and can be top roped from Moby Grape's anchors.



By Les Vanpelt          [hide] Great route but not for your first lead. I thought the pro was going to be better, according to the
Jun 10, 2002            guide it's great. Good moves all up the first pitch. Pull through the crack in the roof above the first
                        anchors, the best moves on the climb, then slip your way up easy, unprotected lichen slabs to the top
                        ledges. The walk off is exsposed and kind of sucks.

By Bryson Slothower     [hide] This was my first trad lead and I didn't own any cams yet, only nuts. I thought it was great........
Jul 19, 2002


By Dave Brower          [hide] Do the roof ! it's wild pumping 5.10 "jugs" A classic finish to this great route !
Oct 19, 2002

By Kris Carter          [hide] Great route, don't just do pitch 1 & 2 then walk off, head up the easy crack above pitch 2
Mar 30, 2004            anchors to the top! Fun little step from pitch 1 anchors to get around the roof. Wasn't up for the direct
rating: 5.7             over the roof, but it looked doable. I stopped short of the pitch 2 anchors and put a long sling around a
                        big boulder so I could see my 2nd come up. Another fun route at 11mile.

By Ryan Carlino         Bring 2 ropes to get down if you don't want to walk around.
Apr 25, 2005
rating: 5.7

By Michael J Yarros     [hide] This is a nice route, but gear placements down low can be tough in the shallow crack.

By Dave G               [hide] I found the first pitch to be a nice climb on the easy side of 5.7. The second pitch wasn't all that
Jun 29, 2008            interesting and I wish we had just rappelled down and using the time on another route.

By Alex A               [hide] Looks better in the photo than it climbs. The 1st 25ft is good, some loose rock, dirt, good pro.




Original Sin 5.9 Sport
Description
Inbetween routes 9 and 10, directly up the dark slab, Original Sin climbs up very
small edges and fingertip-to-fingernail nubbins to the anchors for the first pitch of
Moby Grape (listed as route "Unknown" in this database). There are around 9 good
bolts protecting the route, but they're difficult to see until you're on top of them
(accounting for this route not getting much traffic).

Bonus points for ascending the last vertical step directly to the anchors instead of
moving left to the crack pull-up/finish of Moby Grape. The grade stays the same
either way - but not too difficult for a 9+, all told.

Please note the comments on Unknown/Moby Grape about rope length unless you
intend to continue that climb's second pitch. This is not a slab you want to be
downclimbing unroped.

Protection
A dozen QDs will be plenty, but you'll need a 70m rope or the ability to pass a knot through multiple belay devices to lower
from the anchors - see unknown (Moby Grape) for further information.


By Anonymous            [hide] I am way confused - this description has this between Routes 9 and 10, where the D'Antonio
Coward                  book has Original Sin listed as route 10 (which does not go to the anchors of Moby Grape as described
Aug 22, 2004            above).We started this line left of the partially bolted Route 11 (Jet Setter) and didn't see a single place
                        for pro in the first 30 or 40'. My buddy got a little sketched/frustrated and traversed over to Moby
                        Grape. Can anyone clear up my confusion?!

By Larry Shaw           [hide] It sounds like you started on Jet Setter. This route is just left of #10 and is usually toproped from
Aug 20, 2005            the [Moby Grape] anchors or lead climbed with runout pro.

By John McNamee         [hide] This is a nice climb up well protected face and slab moves. Trust your feet and you will find it not
Administrator           too tricky. Pretty solid 9. If you are unsure of leading it, climb Moby Dick and then top rope it. A 60m
May 22, 2006            rope will let you lead it and then rap back to the blocks several feet above the ground. Well worth
                        doing.
The Overleaf 5.8 Trad
Description
A nice trad route up the whole dome. Start on the left side of the dome and
locate a R-facing dihedral and follow this feature for a long pitch to a fixed
anchor. The route continues up to the summit of the dome or rap off here.

Protection
Standard rack to #4 Friend.


[hide] The Overleaf : Overleaf follows the obvious line up the dihedral on
the far left side of the dome.




By Bryson Slothower     [hide] The anchor is above the roof, put long slings on gear below the roof and you will not get rope
Dec 27, 2001            drag going to the anchor in one pitch. There is also another bolted anchor past the roof out to the right
                        on the face in a big dish. This is a bit lower than the anchor on O.L. if you do get rope drag. This may
                        seem like pretty stout 5.8 to some people.

By shad O'Neel          The belay could be set up easily anywhre after the roof.
Jul 23, 2002

By ROC                  [hide] This is one of the best trad routes I've ever done. Great moderate climbing most of the way and
May 5, 2003             bomber gear placments. That roof is pretty burly if you take it out straight up. Made me sketch a bit,
                        but there's a nice chockstone you can sling just under the roof for some peace of mind. Didn't try the
                        traverse out right, but it look significantly easier. This is one long pitch! Did it with a 50 m rope and my
                        belayer had to climb a good portion of the lower route just so I could make it to the anchors

By ET                   I would recommend a 60 meter rope and lots of long slings. I would try to do the climb in 2 pitches. For
Sep 11, 2003            comfort you'll want a BD 3.5 and 4 cmas but ok with 3 and under.
                        The trick to the first pitch is to start your belay as high as possible. I would say go under right under the
                        roof (5.9 possibly) and use 4ft at the pinacle of the roof to elimate drag. You'll need the 3.5 and 4
                        coming around the right side of the roof to the right sided dihedral/crack. Blow by the bolts to the right
                        side and go all the way up the dihedral to a belay with some cable. Belay there, build one if you don't
                        get all the way.

                        Second pitch ruins the route its runout (25ft) on super easy bathtubs. Belay just below at the summit.
                        Walk off the back and turn left (north) and walk off the gully.

By Larry Shaw           [hide] The roof moves are fun and there is a thank god jug a foot over the lip.

By Mark Nelson          [hide] I wouldn't go into this climb with a 5.8 mindset. (I thought 2 stars @ 5.9)
rating: 5.8
Phantom Pinnacle 5.7 R Trad
Description
This climb is located about 50' to the
left of Moby Grape.

P1 (125') - Start at an arch that goes
from right to left and ends about 1/2
way up the slabs above you. The arch
is about 45 feet in height at the top.
Stay in the arch as long as you can,
placing pro; because there is no pro
on the slab above the arch until you
reach the steeper roof. After
stepping out of the arch, climb
straight up the slabs to the steeper
roof. The slabs are about 40' of up to
5.4 climbing with no pro (R). At the
roof, I took the path of least
resistance traversing 10' feet right,
up some cracks, then going left again
back to the exposed big flakes. Climb up to a big grassy ledge to set your belay.

P2 (160') - Climb the beautiful hand crack angling to the left, and then head straight up to the big roof. Traverse under the roof
right passing under a sculptured cave. Emerge from the cave and step right onto an arête. Follow a hand/fist crack, passing an
old piton straight up to the large headwall. Use a couple of long slings on this pitch to avoid rope drag.

Descent: Traverse to your left (Southwest) along the ledges below the headwall over 4th class terrain until you reach a big
gully with trees. You may want to belay your partner over this traverse. About 40 feet into the traverse, there are some anchor
bolts, but they are not designed for rappelling.

Other:- At the 1st belay, it is possible to escape by down climbing left about 20' to some anchors that are 90' off the deck.- On
the first pitch it looks like you can climb up to the steeper roof over easier terrain with good protection using a gully with
cracks that begins about 10' left of Moby Grape.- The second pitch probably has other interesting variations.- I'm giving this
climb 2.5 stars: 2 for the first pitch, and 3 for the second pitch.
Protection
Set of nuts, set of cams (small to 3"), and a couple of double slings.


By Merlin               [hide] According to one local guidebook author the actual route starts at the base of Moby Grape but
Jul 29, 2007            angles leftward up a slab until it reaches the flake/roof mentioned here. Done this way it is not
rating: 5.7             remotely R. It's not really a roof either, more like a series of steps with a bulge.

                        We stayed roped up on the traverse off and threw 4 or 5 pieces of gear into on the traverse to prevent
                        a fatal slip on otherwise easy slab.

By Stewart M. Green     [hide] Phantom Pinnacle was originally done in the early 1970s by climbing up left on the ramp from
Apr 18, 2010            the base of Moby Grape as I describe in my Rock Climbing Colorado book. It's easy to climb the ramp
                        and you can plug a couple pieces in if you're nervous. I've climbed the way described above too, but
                        that's a variation.

                        If you want to do a good newer route, then climb partway up the ramp and then launch up the face
                        above to a short, hanging corner to a scoop ledge. There's a few bolts above and a 2-bolt anchor.
                        Continue up a second easier pitch to the big overhang. It's called "More Tea Vicar?" (5.7) FA: Stewart
                        Green, Dennis Jump, and Brian Shelton, 2009.
South Face Direct 5.10c Sport
Description
Great, balancy route up the fine granite. Watch that first clip--the moves
aren't too easy getting to it...
A second pitch continues above the first set of bolts, but it is not often
done, it seems.
Protection
About 5-6 draws and a few extra for the anchor.




By Larry Shaw          [hide] Watch the climbing to the first bolt. At about .9, a fall would send you skittering down the low
May 21, 2004           angle slab. Harder moves at the second bolt lead to easier climbing above.
rating: 5.10c
Stone Groove 5.6 Trad
Description
On the Dome's west side is an obvious, low-angled, wide crack. Look for a shallow, right-facing corner. Climb the wide crack to
the summit or, downclimb from an obvious ledge above the technical difficulties. This is the same ledge the other routes walk
off. Downclimb slabs on the west side or go down a gully.

Protection
Standard rack, with a few wider pieces for the wide section.


By Lance Bischoff        [hide] The small pro on standard rack is not going to do much for you, this route is all crack with mostly
Sep 14, 2003             moderate to large pro opportunities. You could even use some small Bros if you have them, or large
                         cams. Reaching deeper into crack seems only option to place midsize pro, otherwise you'll want BIG
                         stuff or runout.

By Larry Shaw            [hide] This is a fun route that doesn't see much traffic.
Jun 17, 2004
rating: 5.6


By Joshua Balke          [hide] If this route is near what you lead comfortably, bring 4-5 pieces of at least 3in. Even a 70m rope
Jun 12, 2007             will put you in a position to build a belay with large gear.




Unnamed 5.9+ Sport
Description
I'm really surprised that this route isn't listed here. It's in the "Climbing Colorado" book as an "unnamed 5.9", and I looked
through the 9s on the list to see if it has earned a name recently. Didn't see anything that sounded like it, so I'll add it here.

A long, thin slab climb. The crux is in the slick start and then climbing the final, very steep slab above a rail and below the
anchors. A fellow climber kept yelling at me to clean off my shoes, and that was great advice.

Location
The route to the right of Cheril's Peril and left of EZ Street.

Protection
Bolts on the route and bolted anchors. The pro seemed reasonable on the climb. The anchors are too high for a 60m rap. You
can rap to the anchors on EZ Street and then down from there if you have only one rope. A 70m might do the trick, though.

				
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